The Cuillin – History & the Peak Names The Cuillin are a 12 km long, horseshoe shaped range of rocky mountains with over 30 peaks on the Isle of Skye. The Cuillin are made up of two main ridges, the true Cuillin are also known as the Black Cuillin, which distinguishes them from the lower, but by no mean less spectacular Red Hills (Am Binnean Dearg), sometimes called the Red Cuillin, which lie across Glen Sligachan, around Loch Coruisk. Local myths tell of how the Black Cuillin were created by the sun god, who burned the ground with so much heat that great blisters arose, and to this day they have never cooled enough to allow thick snow to settle. What’s in a name? In Gaelic, the Cuillin are called An Cuilthionn or An Cuiltheann and there are three differing theories on how the area got its name. The first theory is that they take their name from the legendary Gaelic hero, Cúchulainn (or Cú Chulainn), who learned martial arts from the warrior woman Scáthach, who is said to have a school on Skye, although this is probably a folk etymology. The second theory is that the name comes from the Gaelic for holly, cuileann or cuilionn, which translates as defender. The final theory, which is seen as the most likely given Skye’s Viking heritage, and the shape of the Cuillin ridge, is that the name comes from the Norse kjollen or keelshaped. All the peaks of the Cuillin have Gaelic names, some stranger than others. Some have traditional names, many which are based on their size and looks, whilst others are be named (or renamed) more recently, after the men who pioneered climbing in the Cuillin. Sgùrr Alasdair, for example, was named for Sheriff Alexander Nicolson, who in 1873 was first to climb it. Charles Pilkington is commemorated in Sgùrr Thearlaich, Charles' Peak, and both Norman Collie and John MacKenzie have given their names to summits. Sgùrr Thormoid is Norman's Peak while Sgùrr Mhic Coinnich translates as MacKenzie's Peak. The names of the Cuillin peaks can be seen in the table below, along with a short description of the name and the height of the peak. There heights of the Cuillin peaks differs between publications, so the give figures should be used as a rough guide. Peak Name Name Description Feet Metres Sgùrr Alasdair Alexander's peak. Highest in the Cuillins and named after Alexander Nicolson 3,257 who was the first to climb it in 1873. 993 Inaccessible Pinnacle on Sgùrr Dearg In Pin or In Pinn – colloquialism used by 3,234 mountaineers 986 Sgùrr Dearg Pron. Jerrack, the red peak. Actual summit is the top of the Inaccessible Pinnacle. 3,209 978 Sgùrr Thearlaich (Sgùrr Tearlach) Charles' Peak; named after Charles Pilkington and formerly known as northeast peak of Alasdair 3,208 977 Sgurr a'Ghreadaidh, North Top Pron. greeta. Peak of torment, anxiety, thrashings, mighty winds 3,192 973 Sgurr a'Ghreadaidh, South Top Pron. greeta. Peak of torment, anxiety, thrashings, mighty winds 3,181 970 Sgùrr nan Gillean (Sgorgillean) The lads' peak, peak of the young men, gillies, servants or gylls. The most shapely mountain in the Cuillins. 3,167 965 Sgùrr na Banachdich (A Bhanachdaich) Small-pox peak; so called after the peculiar rock formation of its corry. Known locally as Sgùrr na Banachaig, the dairymaids' peak. 3,166 965 Bruach na Frithe (Bruthach Na Free) Pron. Bruach na Free. The brae of the forest, heath, moor or slope 3,143 958 An Stac The stack or rock. A spur on the main ridge of Sgùrr Dearg. 3,125 952 Sgùrr Mhic Coinnich (Sgùrr Mhic Choinnich) Mackenzie's Peak; named after a famous guide to the Cuillins, John MacKenzie. 3,111 948 Sgùrr Sgumain (An Sguman) The stack or stackshaped hill. 3,108 947 Sgùrr Dubh Mor The Big Black Peak – named due to the darkness of the gabbro 3,096 944 Sgùrr na Banachdich, Second Top Small-pox peak; so called after the peculiar rock formation of its corry. Known locally as Sgurr na Banachaig, the dairymaids' peak. 3,089 942 Sgùrr Dubh an da Bheinn The black peak of the double mountain, perhaps the peak at the junction of two 3,078 ridges. Pron. Sgurr Doo na Da Ven. 938 Am Basteir (Basadair) The Executioner, probably in reference to the outline of the Bhasteir Tooth, which some consider resembles a headsman's axe. 3,069 935 Sgùrr a' Fionn Choire Peak of the white or bright corry, or cold 3,068 corry 935 Blaven (Blabheinn, Blath-Bheinn), North Top The hill of bloom, the warm or sunny mount, from red appearance, the blue 3,044 wild mountain. Flath-bheinn, the Heroes Mount. 928 Sgùrr Thormaid Norman's peak, named after the late Norman Collie. 3,040 927 Blaven (Blabheinn, Blath-Bheinn),, South Top The hill of bloom, the warm or sunny mount, from red appearance, the blue 3,032 wild mountain. Flath-bheinn, the Heroes Mount. 924 Sgùrr nan Eag The notched or serrated peak. 3,031 924 Sgùrr na Banachdich, Third Top Small-pox peak; so called after the 3,023 922 peculiar rock formation of its corry. Known locally as Sgurr na Banachaig, the dairymaids' peak. Sgùrr a' Mhadaidh, south-west Peak Pron. Vatee, the foxes' peak. Actually there are four separate tops. 3,012 918 Bhasteir Tooth Executioners Tooth 3,005 916 Sgùrr a' Bhasteir Peak of the Executioner 2,951 899 Three Teeth three individual rock towers set out along the ridgeline like teeth on the Cuillin Ridge 2,950 899 Sgùrr a' Mhadaidh, Third Peak Pron. Vatee, the foxes' peak. Actually there are four separate tops. 2,939 896 Gars-bheinn (Garsbheinn) Possibly the echoing mountain. Pron. Garsven. Southern terminus of the Main 2,935 Ridge of the Cuillins 895 Sgùrr a' Mhadaidh, north-west Peak Pron. Vatee, the foxes' peak. Actually there are four separate tops. 2,934 894 Sgùrr a' Mhadaidh, Second Peak Pron. Vatee, the foxes' peak. Actually there are four separate tops. 2,910 887 Sgùrr Thuilm Pron. Hulim, peak of Tulm. 2,885 879 Sgùrr a'Choire Bhig Peak of the little corry. Pron. Vick. 2,872 875 The summit of the ridge of the roots, Bidein Druim nan Ramh, Central Peak whence the Cuillins radiate. The 'hub' of 2,850 the range. 869 Sgùrr na Bhairnich Peak of the limpet. 2,826 861 Sron na Ciche A massive black cliff on the south side of Coire Lagan beneath the peak of Sgùrr 2,817 Alasdair 859 Bidein Druim nan Ramh, North Peak The summit of the ridge of the roots, whence the Cuillins radiate. The 'hub' of 2,794 the range. 852 Bidein Druim nan Ramh, West Peak The summit of the ridge of the roots, whence the Cuillins radiate. The 'hub' of 2,779 the range. 847 An Caisteal The Castle – one of the peaks of the Great Traverse. 2,730 832 Caisteal a' Gharbh-Choire Castle of the Rough or Wild Corry 2,719 829 Gharbh-bheinn The rough or wild mountain. North of Blaven. 2,644 806 Clach Glas (Ghlas) The grey stone. The prominent massive tower to the north of Blaven. 2,582 Sometimes known as the 'Matterhorn of Skye.' 787 Glamaig (Glamag) The greedy woman or female. Conical peak opposite Sligachan. 2,525 770 Sgùrr Beag The Small or Little Peak - positioned on the Cullin ridge between Sgùrr na H'uamha and Sgùrr nan Gillean 2,511 765 2,491 759 Cave peak; the northern terminus of the Sgùrr na h'Uamha (Sgùrr na h-Uamha) Main Ridge of the Cuillins. Pron. Sgurr 2,416 na Hoo-a. 736 Sgùrr Coire an Lochain (Sgùrr Coir' an Peak of the corry of the loch. Forms a Lochain) lower buttress of Sgurr Thearlaich. Marsco (Marscow) Sea-gull rock. The pyramidal mountain in Glen Sligachan. 2,414 735 Sgùrr Dubh Beag The Little Black Peak 2,403 732 Beinn na Caillich Literally, the old woman's mountain. It is near Broadford and said to be named after a Norwegian or Danish Princess (or 2,401 her nurse), whose remains are interred on the summit. 731 Beinne Dearg Mhor, Sligachan The middle summit of the group of Red Hills above Sligachan. It has a fine cone2,401 like summit above its vast flanks of scree 731 Sgùrr nan Each Horses' peak. North of Blaven. 2,350 716 Beinn Dearg Mhor, Broadford Second highest of the Broadford Red hills 2,325 709 An Diallaid (Diollaid) Saddle, a ridge to the north of Sgurr nan 2,300 Gobhar. 701 Belig (Beilig; Beileag; Bhelig) Beileach means birchtree bark. This mountain, like several others, does not have 'Beinn' prefixed. Strath. 2,300 701 Sgùrr an Fheadain Pron. Aityan, peak of the water-pipe. 2,253 686 Beinn Dearg Mheadhonach The Middle Red Mount 2,140 652 Sgùrr nan Gobhar Goat’s Peak 2,069 631 Sron Dearg Red Promontory – lower slope to Sgùrr Dearg 2,012 613 Beinn Dearg Bheag, Broadford One of the Broadford Red Hills 1,916 584 Glas-Bheinn Mhor Big Green Hill – linked at a high level to Belig 1,871 570 Ciche na Beinn Deirge The pinnacle or breast of the red mountain. 1,670 509 Sgùrr na Stri (Sg ùrr na Strith) Peak of the conflict or fight-opposing winds. 1,631 497 (Adapted from Virtual Hebrides, date unknown) Geology 101 of The Cuillin The formation of the Cuillin started approximately 70 million years ago, with a series of volcanic eruptions. The two ranges of the Cuillin differing in their geological composition. The Black Cuillin is mainly composed of gabbro and basalt, and it is due to the dark colour of the gabbro that the Black Cuillin receives its name. The gabbro also gives the black Cuillin two other distinctive feature; along with the basalt, the gabbro means that the Black Cuillin are predominately bare rock, jagged in outline, particularly at the summit, with steep cliffs and deep cut corries and gullies; the composition of the gabbro makes it a mountaineers dream, as it is a very rough rock that makes for superb grip. The Red Hills are mainly formed from granite, which is paler that gabbro and in the right conditions has a red tinge. The granite of the Red Hills has weathered into a more rounded landscape, with vegetation to summit level and long scree slopes on their flanks. It is not only volcanoes that have formed the shape of the Black Cuillin and Red Hills, as with many of the mountainous regions of Scotland, glaciation has helped to shape the landscape that is visible today. There is evidence that the Cuillin region of central Skye was the site of an independent ice cap about 12000 years ago, which when melted left the tell-tale signs of scratch marks (striae), icesmoothed rocks (roche moutonnées) and frost shattered rocks that can still be seen today, with the latter particularly clear in the Red Hills. (from Stephenson & Merritt, 2006: 12-14 & 16-17) The Greatest Mountaineering Challenge in Britain The Black Cuillin ridge has been called the Greatest Mountaineering Challenge in Britain, but it is not only mountaineers that visit to experience the Cuillin, but also walkers and ramblers, and people off all ages and experience who are attracted to the ranges. The first reported successful summit attempt in the Cuillin took place on 7th July 1836. Duncan Macintyre, a local forester, lead scientist James Forbes via the ‘Tourist Route’ to the summit of Sgurr nan Gilean. It was towards the late 19th century that the Cuillin became fashionable for climbing, and two of the most notable climbers who visited around this time were Charles Pilkington and Norman Collie. It was Sgùrr nan Gillean that changed both men’s feeling about the Cuillin. It was after two failed attempts to climb Sgùrr nan Gillean that Collie turned to local guide John MacKenzie for help. MacKenzie, who is believed to have first climbed Sgùrr nan Gillean at the age of 10, took Collie on what has now become known as the ‘Tourist Route’ to the summit. The two became great friends, climbing many of the Cuillin together, with Collie being one of the first British climbers to show that there was climbing in Britain to match the demands, if not the height, of the Alps or Rockies. (Mill, 1987) Pilkington too succeeded with the help of John MacKenzie. Having learnt most of his mountaineering skiils in the Swiss Alps, on arrival on Skye for a holiday in 1880, he assumed that the small peaks would offer no significant difficulty. However, after failing in an attempt at Sgùrr nan Gillean, Pilkington developed at great love and respect of the Cuillin and made many first climbs on Cuillin peaks with MacKenzie. (McDonald, 2011) Nowadays, it is the traverse of the Cuillin that attracts many people. The traverse can take anything from 12 hours upwards, dependant on the weather (the record is less that 3 ½ hours, but did not include the initial ascent or final descent). The first recorded traverse was made in 1911, but the first winter traverse didn’t take place until 1965, and remains the hardest climbing challenge in Britain, and one of the hardest in Europe. Clan History of the Cuillin Since the 13th century, the Cuillin have been associated with Clan MacLeod, who hold their seat at Dunvegan. The last clan battle fought on Skye was the Battle of Coire Na Creiche in 1601, fought on the slopes below Bruach na Frithe, and saw the Clan MacDonald of Sleat defeat Clan MacLeod after a long and bitter feud. (Roberts, 1999: 140-141) The Cuillin for Sale The Cuillin were controversially put up for sale in 2000 by John MacLeod of MacLeod, the 29 th Chief of Clan MacLeod. He placed the central range of The Cuillin, that at the time he owned, up for sale for £10 million, to pay for repairs to Dunvegan Castle, the seat of the Clan. The proposed sale was opposed by locals, rambling and climbing organisations and environmental groups. An attempted deal, brokered by public agencies and conservation bodies, would have seen both the Cuillin range and Dunvegan becoming property of the nation, but the application failed, and no private buyer was found, and the Cuillin remain the property of the current Clan Chief. (Cramb, 2008) References Cramb, A. (2008) A watertight plan for Dunvegan and the Cuillin. Daily Telegraph: Tuesday 13 May 2008. Available at: http://www.telegraph.co.uk/news/uknews/1953358/A-watertight-plan-forDunvegan-and-the-Cuillin.html (accessed: 27 August 2012). McDonald, A. (2011) Merseyside Mountaineers and Explorers. Avid Publications. Mill, C. (1987) Norman Collie, a life in two worlds – mountain explorer and scientist 1859-1942. Aberdeen University Press. Roberts, J. (1999) Feuds, Forays and Rebellions: History of the Highland Clans, 1475-1625. Edinburgh University Press. Stephenson, D. and Merritt, J. (2006) Skye: A Landscape Fashioned by Geology. Scottish Natural Heritage. Virtual Hebrides (date unknown) Cuillin Peaks in Order of Altitude. Available at: http://www.virtualhebrides.com/location/isle-of-skye/cuillins_list.htm (accessed: 24 August 2012).
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