Waterfowl
Leader Resource Manual
Revised April 2000
The Waterfowl Project Year
Dear 4-H Leader:
Welcome to an exciting and enjoyable 4-H project. If this is your first year you must be eager to learn as much
about the 4-H program as you can.
ACHIEVEMENT DAY
Achievement day allows members to display to the public, the projects they have worked on all year and have
them evaluated non-competitively. Project completion at Achievement Day requires a satisfactory completion
of a number of requirements. Please refer to the Waterfowl Project Newsletter of the current 4-H year
for detailed information on project requirements, showmanship, conformation, dress
code, record sheet, judging, project identification, etc.
There are many topics to cover in the 4-H Waterfowl Project. 4-H members of
all ages will find something to interest them.
As a leader, seeing what the members already know will be important. Briefly review the material they know
and then move onto new and interesting topics.
TEACHING THE PROJECT
Most of us would agree that the core of 4-H club work is the project. Traditionally, club work has been
organized so that every member takes a specific project. Through the project, club leaders work with
members to help them achieve the objectives of 4-H. A member who successfully completes a project will
receive:
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A feeling of accomplishment;
A challenge to his or her abilities;
Attention from others, mainly through displaying a project at
Achievement Day;
Pride of ownership;
Sense of responsibility.
The job of the project leader is important. Effective project leadership really begins with the wise selection of
projects. As a Waterfowl Project leader help your members choose their birds carefully to suit their interests
and abilities.
IMPORTANT STEPS IN TEACHING
Draw up a plan for the year - Planning should be done near the beginning of the club year. Decide how
many meetings your project group will hold and what topics are to be studied. In planning, decide what will be
taught, how and by whom at each meeting. You may want your members to help, particularly older members,
and each member in your project group should have a copy of the plan.
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Consider your members - Before starting to teach, it is wise to look at the number of members, their ages
and their experience. Try to keep the size of your project group to no more than eight. This will depend on
your member’s interest in the project. If you have more than this number divide the group based on their age
and/or experience level or find more project leaders or assistants. You could draw on the experience of the
oldest members to help with the younger members.
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A good incentive is praise for work well done, rewards strengthen and maintain any learning that leads
to them.
Too much or undeserved praise has a bad effect;
Praise is better than criticism and constructive criticism is better than completely ignoring a learner's
efforts;
Sarcasm and ridicule affect self-esteem.
To like and respect the teacher helps the learning process.
Gain the interest of the members - To obtain and keep the members’ interest
you must become aware of the importance and interest of the topics presented to
them. Present a positive experience for the members. This is easier with some parts
of the project than others since some phases are easier to relate to the members.
For example, members may be more interested in working with their ducks, but it
may be a challenge for the project leader to try to show members the importance of
keeping records.
Types of motivation for members :
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Competition - competition may act as a motivation to learn for those who feel they have a chance to
win the competition, but do not let it get out of hand so that the individual's personal development may
suffer.
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Cooperation among members and opportunities for advancement are motives that affect learning.
Start where the members are - At the start of the year find out what it is about the project that interests
them, how much they already know and if they have any questions. This will help you know where to start
teaching and the interest of your members. As you teach, make sure the topic being discussed, the words,
charts and other teaching tools being used can be understood by all members.
Have every member active - Involve as many members as possible through planning, arrangements for the
meetings and at the meeting itself. Wherever possible, a practice session should follow project instruction,
giving every member a chance to become involved. Experience is the best
teacher and members retain more information if they learn through practical
experience. It has been shown that we remember:
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30 percent of what we hear;
80 percent of what we see and hear;
90 percent of what we actively participate in.
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Making teaching practical - Wherever possible, use real items in a demonstration rather than pictures. For
example, in teaching how to show the duck use a real bird rather than just talking or only using posters.
Use a variety of teaching methods - When doing your planning for the year, consider different ways of
presenting the material and choose the method that will be the most suitable. Each method will have advantages
in particular situations and a change in teaching methods helps to maintain interest. Remember younger
members need more frequent changes and more activity to deepen their interest so plan activities that last no
more than 20 minutes. Members in their early and mid-teens like to work in groups, which means you can use
panels, role-playing, and other group techniques.
Here are some activities you may use with your members:
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How would you describe healthy birds? Have members handle several birds to see how healthy birds
act and look. Discuss how a bird would be if it were sick and diseased.
C
Share how an egg is formed. Describe each part of the reproductive system an egg passes before it is
laid.
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Determine pecking order in your flock - using food or some other item all birds would want, experiment
to see which bird is dominant overall, second most dominant, etc.
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Why is it important to cull non-productive birds from your flock?
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Read a feed tag and identify the ingredients and their use in a ration. Consider the nutrient requirement
of a bird. Learn how to select the best feed for your birds.
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What happens if a bird does not receive adequate amounts of each of the nutrients to meet its
requirements? How does a bird’s digestive system work?
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Visit a local feed mill to see how the ingredients are weighted and mixed together to make a complete
ration. Compare two rations to see their differences.
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If hatching your own waterfowl, discuss candling eggs, why it is important and have members candle
eggs.
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Pretend you have decided to raise a small flock of 50 birds. Develop a management plan.
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What are the major differences between breeds?
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What steps are needed to prepare for newly hatched ducks or
geese? Why is each feature important?
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How are the feathers different on each breed? How do the feather
colors, patterns and shapes differ between some male and female birds?
C
Why is washing the bird necessary before showing it?
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PLACES WHERE THE PROJECT IS TAUGHT
Wherever you hold your project meetings, be sure your members are comfortable and don’t have other
distractions.
Project Meeting - The project meeting may follow a general meeting or it may be held at a different time.
Following are suggestions to organize the project meeting:
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Project Reports by Members - This might be the first item in the meeting. It provides an opportunity
for members to report on their project work since the last meeting, to bring up any problems or
questions and for you to determine their progress, answer questions and make suggestions.
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Introduction to the Next Topic - Outline the new topic and the reason for its importance. This is the
place to gain the members’ interest so that they will be attentive for the next part.
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Group Instruction - This is where the actual teaching of the new topic takes place using the best
method. This may be done by you, the members or by a special resource person.
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Group Activity - This is a practice period in which the members do something. If possible, they
should practice what has been taught. If not, they may work on record books or practice
demonstrations.
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Individual Help - While the group activity is going on, you may help members who need closer
attention or extra help.
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Preparing for the Next Meeting - This is the time when you give instruction on homework to be
done, items to bring to the next meeting or last minute reminders.
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Information about waterfowl
Benefits of Having Ducks For Pets
Easy to Raise - Ducks are seldom bothered by sickness or parasites.
Resistant to Cold, Wet and hot Weather - Mature waterfowl are practically immune to wet or cold
weather. Ducks can remain outside in the wettest weather, and are able to winter comfortably outdoors with
only a windbreak, even when temperatures fall below -18°C (0°F). Ducks also do well in hot climates if they
have access to shade and drinking water.
Insect, Snail and Slug Exterminators - Ducks are excellent at getting rid of any unwanted insects in your
garden.
Productive - They are one of the most efficient producers of animal protein.
Easy to Feed - Ducks will eat almost anything that comes out of the kitchen.
Their feathers and manure can be used in by-products, they have gentle dispositions and are very entertaining
as a pet.
BREEDS AND VARIETIES
When we talk about waterfowl, we are talking about all the birds with web feet. These birds include ducks and
geese. During this project, we will be talking about waterfowl, meaning ducks and geese unless each are
treated differently.
Ducks were first raised for food in China thousands of years ago. Muscovies, which are like a combination
breed of duck, geese and turkey come from South America. There are numerous breeds of ducks, only about
five have attained some degree of popularity for commercial use. Meat production breeds are White Pekin,
Rouen, Muscovy, Aylesburg and Pekin; Egg production breeds are Khaki Campbell and Indian Runner.
Geese come from Europe and North America. Among the best known domestic breeds in Canada are the
heavy breeds - Toulouse, Embden and African; the medium weight - Pilgrim and light weight - Chinese. These
most common breeds of geese are fairly satisfactory for meat production. However, the most desired
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characteristics in a goose are medium sized carcass, good livability, rapid growth and a heavy coat of white or
near white feathers.
Waterfowl are not only popular for exhibition purposes, but useful and profitable for the production of meat and
eggs. Waterfowl raised for commercial egg production is very limited both in Nova Scotia and elsewhere in
Canada as duck eggs are not very popular with consumers. The many variations in size, type and color
patterns give breeders of ducks a wide range from which to choose a variety most suited to their desires.
The Crested ducks capitalize on a unique feature to give them a distinctive appearance. While not considered a
top commercial duck they do offer their owners a breeding challenge with good recovery for the family table.
The Runners are very distinctive in type; in fact, type is the most important characteristic of the breed. In
judging Runners, the typical shape must be given first consideration. A ringed-in enclosure may be used when
judging Runners so they can be judged “on the move” for correct carriage and gait. Runners move with a quick
step, quite unlike the waddle of other ducks.
During the summer old drakes with the color pattern of the Gray Runner, Mallard, Rouen and Gray Call shed
their showy male plumage and take on a plumage resembling that of the female. In the fall, they molt again and
take on the male plumage. Young drakes also carry the less showy female color before they take on adult
plumage. English Magpie Ducks are quite similar in type to Khaki Campbells, share their English origin and like
the Campbells are high-egg yield, triple-purposed breed.
The skin of all domesticated races of ducks is more or less yellow, with the possible exception of the Aylesbury
and Muscovy, the skins of which are pinkish white. Indian Runners produce white eggs, although tinted eggs
are common in some strains. Well managed flocks of Indian Runner and Khaki Campbell ducks out perform
most poultry breeds for egg production. The Cayuga and the Black East India lay a very characteristic egg.
When production begins the eggs are practically black, but as production progresses the black pigment more or
less disappears and the eggs are blue. The Rouen egg is bluish-green shelled, although white-shelled eggs are
not uncommon.
The larger breeds of ducks are noted for their market and table qualities.
CARE OF THE EGG
Cleaning - Eggs that are going to be incubated should be gathered twice daily. Hatching eggs must always be
handled gently so that the embryo is not injured or the protective shell cracked. Before the eggs are incubated
make sure that they are clean. Eggs can be wiped with a clean cloth or fine sandpaper. Dirty eggs need to be
washed with lukewarm water as soon after gathering as possible. Eggs used for setting should have normal
shells and be average to large in size.
Storing - Eggs must be stored away from direct sunlight in a cool, humid location.
Cellars or basements are ideal places; refrigerators are usually too cold. The ideal
storage temperature for hatching eggs that are held for ten days or less seems to be
13 - 18°C (55-65°F). Eggs held for five days or more should be turned by leaning
one end of the container against a wall or on a block at an angle of 30 - 40 degrees
each day alternating the end that is raised.
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HATCHING THE EGG
The normal incubation period for breeds is 27 - 28 days. Muscovies require approximately 33 - 35 days to
hatch. The Canada and Egyptian geese require 35 days, all other geese 28-30 days.
Incubation - If you are not using an incubator to incubate the eggs; duck, goose, turkey and chicken hens can
be used. They are called broody hens. If chickens are used for hatching waterfowl, the eggs should be
sprinkled daily with lukewarm water. If a duck or goose is used for hatching, water which comes from their
feathers after a swim provides enough moisture for a good hatch.
A chicken hen or female duck can set on nine to eleven eggs (Muscovies 16 - 20) of their own eggs. A goose
will cover nine to eleven eggs. If there are more than this amount remove the oldest and dirtiest eggs. Eggs
must be positioned in a single layer to hatch well. Place the nest where it won’t be disturbed during the
incubation period and provide a convenient source of feed and water for the bird.
Incubators
ncubators
Still-Air Incubators - Available with electric or oil heat. Simple to operate, dependable, nearly maintenancefree.
Forced-Air Incubators - Equipped with fans or beaters which move warmed air around the surface of the
eggs, and normally have multiple layers of egg trays. Better suited to automatic turning of eggs, and take less
floor space for larger quantities of eggs. More complicated and require greater maintenance and sell for higher
price.
When using an incubator for duck eggs, follow the manufacturer’s instructions for the machine being used.
Homemade Incubators - These can be made from a cardboard box and light bulbs for heat. In emergency
situations it is possible to hatch eggs in an electric frying pan or heating pad.
Where to place the incubators - Place incubator in a room where the temperature does not fluctuate more
than 5- 10° over a 24 hour period. Constant temperatures are especially important for still air incubators,
which should be located in a room with an average temperature of 16-21°C (60 - 70°F). Do not position your
machine where it will be in direct sunlight, or near a window, heater or air conditioner. Make sure the incubator
is level.
Setting the Eggs - Start incubator 48 - 72 hours ahead of time. Make all necessary adjustments to
temperature before eggs are set. Before placing eggs in the incubator, the eggs need to be warmed for 8 - 10
hours at room temperature. Always set them on their sides with the large end slightly raised. Do not disturb the
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eggs within the first 24 hours in the incubator.
Temperature - In still air machines the correct temperature is 38.6°C (101.5°F), 39°C (102°F), 39.1°C
(102.5°F) and 39.4°C (103°F) respectively for the first, second, third and fourth weeks of incubation.
Satisfactory results may be obtained by operating the incubator at 39°C (102°F) for the entire period. It is
essential that thermometers be positioned properly in still-air machines or an incorrect temperature reading will
be given. In forced-air machines temperature is maintained at 37.5° - 37.7°C (99.5 - 99.75° F), since the
sides of the eggs are warmed equally. Lowering the temperature by 1-1.5 degrees for the final two days is
beneficial, since ducklings generate considerable internal heat in their struggle to free themselves from their
shells.
Humidity - Moisture is usually supplied by water evaporating pans. To control humidity, the water surface
area is increased or decreased, and the amount of ventilation regulated. The best indicator of whether the
contents of the eggs are dehydrating at the correct rate is the size of their air cells. The air cells volume can be
observed by candling the eggs. On the seventh, fourteen, and twenty-first days of incubation, the average air
cell volume should be about the same size as the illustration below.
If the air cells are too large, increase the moisture by adding more water surface, and/or decrease ventilation. If
the air cells are too small, do the opposite. Goose eggs hatch better if they are dipped into or sprinkled with
warm water during incubation.
Turning - Turn the eggs three times daily at about eight hour intervals is the minimum for high percentage
hatches. Duck eggs need to be rotated at regular hours and revolved at least 1/3 of the way around at each
turning. Begin turning 24 - 36 hours after the eggs are set, and discontinue turning three days before the
scheduled hatch date. When eggs are turned manually it is helpful to mark them with an X and an O on
opposite side with a wax or lead pencil.
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Cooling - For best results in still air incubators, eggs should be cooled once a day, except during the first week
and the last three days of the incubation.
Sprinkling - Most waterfowl benefit from higher humidity than poultry and require more frequent sprinkling for
a successful hatch. To prevent the egg membranes from drying out and becoming tough during the hatch, it is
necessary to sprinkle the eggs with warm water from day 2 to 26.
CANDLING
The best time to check fertility or embryonic development is on the seventh day of incubation, unless they have
dark-colored shells; then waiting until the tenth day is better. If eggs are candled prematurely, it is more likely
that fertile eggs will be accidentally discarded.
Eggs are candled in a darkened room with an egg candle or flashlight. On the seventh day, fertile eggs reveal a
small dark spot at the large end of the egg, with a network of blood vessels branching out from it, closely
resembling a spider in the center of its web. Infertile eggs are clear with the yolk appearing as a floating
shadow when the egg is moved from side to side.
Sometimes embryos begin to develop, but perish within several days. When this happens, a streak or circle of
blood is visible in an otherwise clear egg. Contaminated and rotten eggs often exhibit black spots on the inside
of the shell, with darkened, cloudy areas floating in the eggs interior.
All eggs not containing live embryos should be removed from the incubator when candled on the 7th or tenth
day.
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HATCH DAY
Normally the eggs will be pipped eight hours before the hatch date. Ducklings require 24 - 48 hours to
completely rim the shell and exit. Newly hatched birds are wet and tired. They should be kept in the incubator
4 - 12 hours while gaining strength and drying off.
If your incubator is equipped with air vents they should be regulated to give your ducklings extra air. You may
find it necessary to place extra water containers in the machine to maintain a good level of humidity. If you do
this, watch carefully to ensure none of your ducklings drown.
After most of the ducklings are hatched, the relative humidity can be lowered to 50 per cent so they will fluff out
properly.
Remove the ducklings from the incubator when they are dry to a clean container prepared with soft bedding.
This is usually about 24 hours after the hatch is completed.
Assistance can be given to ducklings which are having trouble breaking out of their shells by carefully breaking
away the shell just enough so that the duckling will be able to exit under its own power.
At the end of the hatch, thoroughly clean and disinfect the incubator and store it in a dry, sanitary location.
BROODING
Basic Guidelines
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Keep them warm and dry and protect them from drafts.
Maintain them on dry bedding that provides good footing.
Supply fresh, non-medicated feed that provides a balanced diet.
Provide a constant supply of fresh water.
Furnish adequate floor space and fresh air.
Protect them from predators.
Natural Brooding
Hens can provide sufficient heat for the ducklings. Ducklings can be brooded by duck, turkey, bantam or large
chicken hens.
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Bother them as little as possible;
Protect them against predators and keep the ducklings from becoming soaked during their first
weeks outside the shell;
Confine the duck and the ducklings each night until the ducklings are six - eight weeks old.
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Artificial Brooding
The most common artificial brooder for 4-H members is the heat lamp, although other brooders can be used
such as a battery brooder, hover brooder, and a homemade brooder.
Suspend the heat lamp, with a 250 watt bulb, 45-60 cm (18 - 24 inches) above the litter. The ducklings should
be confined in a small pen which can be made larger as the ducklings get bigger. Each lamp will provide
adequate heat for 20 - 24 ducklings, depending upon the size of the birds and the outside temperature. Always
use extreme caution when using heat lamps to prevent fire. Make sure ducklings have adequate space to allow
them to get out of direct heat from the brooder lamp.
The best way of determining how much heat the ducklings should have is based on their actions. If the
ducklings are noisy and huddle together under the heat source, they are cold and additional heat should be
supplied. When they stay away from the heat, or pant, they are too warm and the temperature needs to be
lowered. The proper amount of heat is being provided when ducklings sleep peacefully under the brooder or
move about freely, eating and drinking. Even at the start of the brooding period, it is extremely important that
ducklings are able to get away from the heat source when they desire. Overheating is almost as damaging to
ducklings as chilling.
Litter - Decide what material you are going to put under your ducklings or gooslings. Consider these points:
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Thick layer of absorbent, mold free litter;
Use shavings, sawdust, peanut hulls, peat moss, crushed corncobs, flax or chopped straw;
Begin with 7.5-15 cm (3 - 6 inches);
Remove wet litter and replace with dry litter.
When ducklings are started on litter, allow a minimum of .06 square metres (.75 square feet) of space per bird
for the first two weeks, .15 square metres (1.75 square feet) until four weeks, .24 square metres (2.75 square
feet) until six weeks and .27 - 2.70 square metres (3 - 5 square feet) thereafter. At three to four weeks of age,
give ducklings access to an outside pen or yard and allow 5.42 square metres (10 square feet) per bird.
Other Examples of Brooders
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WATER
Swimming Water
It is not necessary to have swimming water for ducklings. It is safest to keep them out of the water until
they are at least two weeks old.
To protect ducklings from drowning, all water containers which they can enter should have gently sloping sides
with good footing to allow tired and wet swimmers to exit easily.
Drinking Water
Ducklings must have a constant supply of room temperature drinking water. Use water containers designed
so that young ducklings cannot get into the water thus reducing the risk of drowning. Ducklings are easily
chilled when they become wet while still in the “down” stage. The water should be deep enough to allow them
to dip their bills and head. Placing water containers over low wire covered frames helps keep the watering
area dry and sanitary. Water containers should be rinsed out daily.
FEEDING
For maximum growth feed your ducks a diet that provides 20 - 22% protein up to two weeks of age, and 16 18% protein from two to twelve weeks.
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Ducklings should be allowed to eat all the feed they want up to two weeks of age. After this time, you can limit
them to two or three feedings daily, where they should be given all the feed they can clean up in five to ten
minutes.
Ducklings are capable of foraging most of their own ration if there is an abundant supply of insects, wild seeds
and succulent plants.
Small whole grains such as wheat, milo, or cracked corn can be fed to ducklings after they are several weeks
old, these alone are not a balanced diet.
Premixed starter and grower feeds for ducklings are available. When these feeds are used, the instructions
should be followed.
Young waterfowl require two to three times more niacin in their diet than chicks. A niacin supplement
should be added to their feed or water if they are raised in confinement or on a ration that is deficient
in niacin.
NOTE:
The daily feeding of leafy greens to ducklings fortifies their diets with essential vitamins and minerals,
reduces feed consumption and lowers the possibility of cannibalism. Tender young grass, lettuce,
chard, and dandelion leaves are excellent green feeds.
Coarse sand or small granite grit should be kept before ducklings at all times. It helps birds to get the most out
of their food.
Feeders
Feed should be placed in containers where the ducklings can not help but find it. To avoid waste, never fill the
feeders more than half full.
Examples of Feeders
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Provincial 4-H Office
4-H and Rural Organizations
Nova Scotia Department of Agriculture and Marketing
P.O. Box 550
Truro, Nova Scotia
B2N 5E3
Phone: (902) 893-6585
Web site: http://agri.gov.ns.ca/4h_ro/
4-H MOTTO
“Learn to do by Doing”
4-H PLEDGE
I pledge my head to clearer thinking,
my heart to greater loyalty,
my hands to larger service,
and my health to better living.
For my club, my community and my country.
4-H Specialists to Contact
If you have any questions about the 4-H program or this project, contact the 4-H Specialist
in your area:
Western Region - Yarmouth, Digby, Annapolis
South Shore Region - Lunenburg, Queens, Shelburne
Valley Region - Hants, Kings
Central Region - Halifax, Cumberland, Colchester
Eastern Region - Antigonish, Guysborough, Pictou
Cape Breton Region - Richmond, Cape Breton, Inverness, Victoria
584-2231
543-0505
798-8377
893-6586
755-7150/ 863-4705
563-2000
TABLE OF CONTENTS
The Waterfowl Project Year
Achievement Day . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
Teaching the Project . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
Important Steps in Teaching . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
Places where the Project is Taught . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
1
1
1
4
General Information for the Waterfowl Project Leader
Benefits of Having Ducks for Pets . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 5
Breeds and Varieties . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 5
Care of the Egg . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 6
Hatching the Eggs . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 7
Candling Eggs . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 9
Hatch Day . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 9
Brooding . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 10
Water . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 12
Feeding . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 12
Management
Housing . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
Flock Health . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
Problems Caused by Poor Management . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
Cages . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
The Next Phase . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
14
14
15
16
18
Preparing Waterfowl for Show
Washing your Waterfowl . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
Showmanship Guide . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
General Tips for Show person . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
In the Show Ring . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
Steps in Showing Waterfowl . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
19
20
21
21
22
Judging Waterfowl
Judging a Class of Waterfowl . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 23
Parts of your Waterfowl . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 24
Appendix
Space Requirements for Ducklings . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 27
Suggested Feeding Schedule for Ducklings . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 27
Breed of Ducks . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 28-34
Breed Profiles . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 35
Glossary . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 36
References . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 38
MANAGEMENT of the Flock
HOUSING
Domestic ducks adapt well to a wide range of environmental conditions and accordingly a variety of
satisfactory housing systems have emerged throughout the world. A small farm breeder flock of ducks does
not require as elaborate housing as is needed for chickens and turkeys. A pen in a barn or small building that is
well lighted, well ventilated and dry will prove satisfactory. Insulation is not necessary because breeder ducks
do not require a warm pen. The pen or house should have easy access to the outside yards as ducks prefer to
be outdoors during the day, even in winter.
It is important to keep litter in the pen dry. This is difficult with waterfowl and often requires extra attention and
the frequent addition of dry material. Straw and wood shavings are good bedding material.
On commercial duck farms, breeders are usually housed in special breeder houses with access to outside
yards. Each breeder duck should have .36 - 2.70 square metres (4 to 5 square feet) of floor space. A pen 6
x 6 meters (19 x 19 ft.) in size is suitable for 80 to 100 breeders. Smaller flocks tend to be quieter, have fewer
broken and soiled eggs, and are not as apt to develop cannibalism.
When feeding mash or pellets in hoppers, allow approximately 2.1 to 3 m (6.75 - 9.75 ft.) of feeding space per
50 ducks. Wooden or tubular metal hoppers used for other poultry are quite suitable for pellet or mash
feeding.
FLOCK HEALTH
Ducks are subject to relatively few of the many diseases common to most birds. This is partly because they are
usually kept in small flocks and provided with plenty of range. However, when grown commercially in large,
concentrated numbers, disease can become an important economic factor. In most cases, severe outbreaks of
disease occur only where growers have become careless with sanitation, feeding, brooding and/or ventilation.
This is most noticeable where filth has been allowed to accumulate in buildings and yards. Strict sanitary
measures throughout the whole management program are necessary. Well-ventilated, clean, dry brooder and
layer houses, well-drained yards, and the feeding of pelleted feed are also important in preventing disease.
Prevention is the best insurance against disease, and sanitation in all phases of incubation, brooding, rearing and
general management is the best preventive measure. Where disease does occur in a flock, consult a poultry or
animal pathologist for an immediate and accurate diagnosis. The Provincial Laboratory in Truro provide
diagnostic services, and will give you instructions if they want you to ship live or dead specimens for diagnosis.
Early diagnosis followed by immediate treatment will usually mean that the flock will return to normal health
fairly rapidly.
Learn to recognize if your birds are sick. They tend to hide their symptoms until they are very ill. Because
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1
diseases can spread very quickly, it is important to recognize problems in a flock early, before they get out of
hand. One way to see potential trouble is to study how normal, healthy waterfowl look and act.
Infestation by parasites such as flukes, tapeworms and roundworms, unless severe, results mainly in lowered
egg production in breeders, and retarded growth and lowered feed efficiency in growing stock. It is most
prevalent amount ducks and geese allowed access to stagnant water, overcrowded ponds and small streams.
Ducks grown on heavy soil in low-lying areas around ponds are more subject to infection than those grown on
sandy, well drained soil. Where many ducks are reared it may be advisable each season to remove an inch or
two of surface soil along with accumulated droppings. It is preferable to rotate the yards.
Lice and mites are not found as commonly on waterfowl as on chickens. Lice, where present, can be
controlled by dusting or spraying the birds with an approved pesticide.
PROBLEMS to Watch For - CAUSED BY Poor MANAGEMENT
‘
The condition known as “staggers ” is commonly caused by a temporary shortage of drinking water. If
the birds feed before the water is replenished, death usually follows in a short time.
‘
Cold water can be fatal to overheated ducklings. Therefore, leave water for ducklings in a warm place
until the chill has gone before pouring it into their drinking vessels.
‘
Ducklings cannot tolerate the sun after eating. If natural shade is not available, provide some type of
shelter.
‘
Feather eating or quill pulling is a habit which frequently gives trouble in larger flocks. It is usually
caused by crowding too many ducks into too small an area. The remedy for this problem is to debeak
the ducks in much the same manner as chickens. To debeak the ducks, you need to remove the horn
at the front of the top bill. The same remedy is required if cannibalism occurs in laying flocks. Since
your ducks will be used for show you cannot debeak them.
‘
Ducks are highly nervous. If chased vigorously, they will go lame. Do not allow people or animals,
especially dogs, to chase them. If this should happen, remove the lame ducks from the flock. They will
regain the use of their legs in a week or two. Chasing a duck is not an acceptable method of catching
them.
‘
As a rule, ducks are more vigorous and are less subject to disease than hens. If disease occurs, it is
most likely to be the result of unsanitary surroundings and faulty management or inherent weaknesses
due to breeding.
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CAGES
Cages are one of the most important parts of exhibiting your waterfowl at Achivement Day, exhibition, county
shows and 4-H Show.
The cage should be:
Easy to maintain and keep clean;
C
The correct size for your waterfowl. Check your current Waterfowl Project Newsletter for the cage
C
size. The size may seem large, but it allows freedom of movement for normal waterfowl growth;
Economical and of good quality;
C
Sturdy and durable so your bird doesn’t get out;
C
Structurally sound and in good repair with no sharp edges or abrasive surfaces in contact with your
C
birds;
Allows food and water to be provided so that spillage is not a problem;
C
Allows or ease of seeing our birds both by the judge and anyone else;
C
User friendly.
C
Many waterfowl members will find it worthwhile to build their own cage for housing their birds at shows.
Where to Purchase Materials
The necessary materials can usually be found at local hardware stores, feed stores or building supply stores.
Check these places first. Mail order livestock supply companies are also a good source for materials, although
ordering cage wire may be expensive due to shipping costs. Check waterfowl and poultry and other farm
magazines for names of suppliers. Contact other waterfowl farmers and leaders in your area to find out where
they purchase their equipment. Watch the classified ads in your local paper for used equipment for sale.
Type of Wire
All wire used in building the cage should be galvanized welded wire. Poultry wire (fencing or netting) is cheaper
but more importantly it is weaker. By using poultry wire you are endangering the life of your waterfowl. Due to
its construction and gauge (thickness and strength) dogs, humans, owls, hawks, raccoons and foxes can easily
break through the wire and kill your waterfowl. In protecting your birds, cheap is not the way to go. Wire
cages are quite easy to clean up and disinfect
and these cages are fairly light in weight.
Instructions for Cages
The instructions are based on the current cage size for large ducks and geese as recommended in the
Waterfowl Project Newsletter.
C Size 30" x 30" x 36" high (76 cm x 76 cm x 91.5 cm high)
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4
Supplies needed:
C
C
C
C
C
C
C
1 piece 30 x 30 in. (76 x 76 cm) floor wire (12.5 mm x 25mm mesh, 14 gauge wire)
4 pieces 30 x 36 in. (76 x 91.5 cm) side wire (25 m x 25 mm or 25 mm x 50 mm mesh)
1 piece 30 x 30 in. (76 x 76 cm) top wire (25 mm x 25 mm or 25 mm x 50 mm mesh)
1 piece 30 x 36 in (76 x 91.5 cm) divider for cage (25 mm x 25 mm or 25 mm x 50 mm mesh)
Flat clips
Pliers
Wire cutters
To assemble:
‘
Cut wire according to sizes above. Be sure to cut close to lengthwise and crosswise mesh.
Do not leave meeting points exposed.
‘
Put wire sides together so a rectangle is formed using flat clips or hog rings. If you want to separate
your drake and duck (hen) you can put a divider in the cage. Be careful that the divider goes in when
putting the sides together.
‘
Put the wire top on fastening one side edge securely. The other three sides need to be fastened with
the clips or wires so that you can easily open and close the top to get your birds out.
When you cut out your cage pieces, you’ll see that the cage is quite large. A collapsible cage may be
more convenient for carrying to Achievement Day, exhibition and other shows. Cut out your cage
pieces as described above. Put your cage together using clips or wire rings that are easy to unfasten
when folding your cage. To fold the cage, unfasten the top and bottom on the same three sides. If your
cage has a divider, fold it down flat against the bottom. Fold the top and bottom to the inside, against
4-H Waterfowl Leader Manual - 2000
5
one side of the cage. The other three sides will flatten down for easy transport and storage at home.
Leave the wire clips attached to cage wires so everything will be together when you’re ready to set up
the cage.
ThE NEXT PHASE
Now that your ducklings have lost their fluff and grown to maturity, they will begin to give you a return on your
investment. They can do this in a number of ways.
Meat - Non-producing ducks or geese that will not be used for breeding or egg production should be removed
from your flock. These birds can be slaughtered and used for home consumption.
Note: Please check with your local Department of Agriculture and Marketing Quality Evaluation
specialist for rules and guidelines for your own birds or taking them to an inspected plant.
Most ducks are marketed at seven to eight weeks of age. Pekin ducks will weigh 2.5 - 2.9 kg. (5.5 - 6.5 lb)
and be relatively free of pin feathers. As a general rule, geese should be killed when 11-16 weeks of age.
The equipment needed for slaughter are a sharp knife, funnel, rope, propane torch and a pail of scalding water.
The birds should be hung upside down in the funnel which holds the body and allows the head and neck to
protrude. The funnel prevents flopping and the bird bleeds freely. To get a good bleed-out cut the jugular vein
on the left side of the neck and let bleed for a few minutes or until bleeding stops. The bird should then be
removed from the funnel and dunked several times in the pail of scalding water 60-70°C (140-150°F). Scald
only enough to ensure easy plucking. Hold the bird by the feet and pluck out the feathers. When all the
feathers are removed, use a propane torch to singe off hairs left on the bird. Cool the carcass rapidly to
maintain a satisfactory appearance and to prevent spoilage of the meat.
The next step is to eviscerate the bird. Cut along the abdomen and around the vent enough so your hand can
be inserted into the bird’s body cavity to remove the insides. When all insides are removed, insuring all the
lungs and kidneys are gone, remove the crop by cutting along the skin of the neck and plying the crop away
from the tissues. The remaining trachea should be removed with the head.
The feet of the bird should be removed and the legs tied together or enclosed in a flap of abdominal skin. The
gizzard, heart and liver can be saved for eating. The gizzard is prepared by cutting along the middle, turning the
inside out and removing the inner lining of the gizzard. The neck can also be removed. After washing out the
inside and outside of the bird, the neck, gizzard, heart and liver may be placed in a small bag and placed inside
the bird until the time the bird is ready for use. The bird should be cooled as quickly as possible and can be
frozen until ready to cook. For long term storage, put the carcass in a plastic bag with excess air removed.
Eggs - Waterfowl raised for commercial egg production is limited in Nova Scotia. Consumers are not
interested in purchasing duck or goose eggs for consumption. If you are collecting eggs for hatching, select
those from parents of show bird conformation, productivity, vigor, size, health and freedom from physical
abnormalities and must meet breed standards without any disqualifying traits present.
Feathers - Goose feathers are used for many purposes. The softer feathers are used in making pillows,
comforters and sleeping bags of the very finest quality. A goose can yield 100-200 g (3.5 - 7.04 oz). Wash
the feathers in lukewarm water with a detergent, rinse thoroughly and dry. Spread the feathers and stir
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frequently during the drying process to fluff them.
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PREPARING WATERFOWL FOR SHOW
Showing Waterfowl does not begin when a member enters the judging ring. It starts as soon as your ducklings
are hatched and requires the member to take the time to work with the birds. Practice makes perfect and if a
member feels comfortable with showing his or her ducks then showmanship will be fun and rewarding.
The day your ducklings are hatched is the day they start to be handled. This will get all of them used to
people, and being handled for showing them.
After your birds are fully developed you can follow these steps to prepare for your show.
Choose Your Waterfowl For Show
Choose your birds about eight to twelve weeks before the Show. Look for a blending of all parts of the bird’s
as a whole. Use the Scale of Points found in the Livestock Judging Guide and the Standard of Perfection
(from the Fur and Feather Association) for your breed to choose the best of pair to use in the Show. Keep in
mind that some breeds can be very flighty and difficult to train, while others are very easily trained. Remember
to choose a duck and a drake.
Caring For Your Waterfowl
Once you have selected which waterfowl you are going to show, you may want to give them some special
attention. You may want to separate them from the other birds and place them somewhere to receive more
exposure to people. You may even want to play loud music around them so they get used to noise. By
handling them often, you can ensure a better performance during the actual contest.
Go Over Your Waterfowl Carefully
Go over each part carefully so you do not miss some defect or disqualification that the judge will probably find.
Keep in mind that you are looking for birds that will help you demonstrate your knowledge about birds and
your ability to handle them.
If your waterfowl has any broken or damaged feathers, pull them out carefully so new feathers will grow into
their place by show day. Sometimes it may take longer than 12 weeks for replacement feathers to grow back.
Check regularly for lice and mites or any external parasites and treat the bird if there is a problem. Check
around the vent area, on the legs and back and under the wings.
Your Waterfowl Should Be Cage Trained
A member can train a duck to stand quietly and properly to show itself to the best advantagewhen in front of a
judge. Handle the duck daily and practice showmanship skills with it so it will be used to the procedure. Ducks
are very smart animals and learn very fast. They will know what is to be expected of them when it comes time
to show if you prepare first. Move the bird gently about the cage. Take it out of the cage, handling it quietly,
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smoothing down its feathers and extending the wing, like a judge would do.
When taking the bird out of the cage, turn it to face the door and then gently take hold of the bird with your
right hand firmly, but not tight, around the neck, close to the body. At the same time, slide your left hand under
the birds body placing your fingers between the birds legs. You are supporting the bird along the length of its
body with your forearm and palm. Handle geese the same way, being careful to hold the wings so the goose
can’t fly. Geese have to be handled carefully to prevent damage to their powerful wings.
To return it to the cage, hold the bird in the basic hand position, as above, open the cage door, turn the bird
and gently put it into the cage head first.
WASHING YOUR WATERFOWL
To bath your duck, use three tubs of lukewarm water. Use a soft cloth to wash the feathers and a toothbrush
to scrub the birds bill, shank, toes and feet. DO NOT USE SOAP when washing your duck because soap
can cause the duck to dry out and die. Keep the duck upright and move it up and down in the water to get
it thoroughly soaked right down to the skin. Be sure to keep their head out of the water. Wash it carefully
with your hand, always working your fingers with the feathers, never against.
The next two tubs are used to give the duck a thorough rinse.
After rinsing, use towels to remove as much water as you can, before placing it in a clean cage. After you finish
drying the bird, keep it at a temperature warm enough so the bird will not shiver but so that the feathers will not
dry too fast.
If only some of the birds feathers are dirty, it doesn’t need a complete bath. For white birds, gently work
cornmeal through the feathers from the bird’s head to its tail. DO NOT GO AGAINST THE FEATHERS!
The day before your show, you may want to place a little mineral oil or petroleum jelly on a soft cloth and
apply it to the bird’s beak or bill, shanks and toes. Be careful not to apply too much or to touch it to the birds
plumage.
After you’re finished cleaning your bird, be sure it’s pen is clean so the bird doesn’t get dirty again.
SHOWMANSHIP GUIDE
A waterfowl show person is one who has learned the art of selecting, fitting and presenting waterfowl to
advantage at the show. The confidence and ability displayed by the member and the bird’s response suggests
previous work done with the bird. Knowledge of the show person in response to questions about parts,
defects, qualifications, breed, and variety characteristics and the appearance of the bird shows an ability to
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select and fit it for show.
GENERAL TIPS FOR the SHOWPERSON
Be neat and clean - The correct show clothes is a white lab coat or white shirt and pants. Tie is optional. 4-H
members exhibiting in an outdoor ring are permitted to wear a sun-safe hat. Sneakers may be worn in a
waterfowl class. In an overall Livestock Showmanship class hard soled boots or shoes are encouraged for
members safety. Do not smoke or chew gum. Make sure the bird is clean, well groomed and well trained.
Attitude
C
C
C
C
C
C
Be alert but polite and courteous to the judge and fellow show people.
Always remember to control your emotions, appear keen but relaxed despite where you place.
Accept the decision of the judge like a true sports person. Remember that the class is not over until
the final decision is made.
Always keep your bird under control and make frequent glances at the judge to watch for
directions.
Be prepared to answer questions that the judge may ask.
Be prepared to show any bird the judge designates.
Do not be late entering the ring and never cause delays by visiting with other show people or
spectators.
Technique
•
•
•
•
•
Follow the directions of the judge.
Make sure the duck looks its best from the time it enters the ring until it leaves.
Never stand between the judge and your duck.
Move from one position to another, whether up or down in a class.
Make room for a contestant, who has been moved ahead of you. Being discourteous in this regard
should result in discrimination.
IN THE SHOW RING
The 4-H Livestock Showmanship Guide has more details on showing waterfowl. Refer to it when helping your
members prepare for show. In Nova Scotia you will show ducks on a table. If showing a very large goose
you may choose to walk the bird in showmanship.
<
Walk in a clockwise direction as indicated by the judge.
<
Use a cane to guide the bird; forward, right, left and to slow down (with handle) as required in order to
keep the bird moving clockwise around the ring.
<
When the judge asks you to pose the bird, calmly stop the bird, squat or kneel (on one knee) beside
the bird. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
<
Place your left hand in the front of the neck, with an open palm, do not grasp the neck. Place the birds
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3
feet with your right hand.
<
Show the parts of the bird as requested by the judge.
STEPS IN SHOWING WATERFOWL
The judge may ask you to show him/her many different things at the showmanship table, these include:
1. Set up the Duck -
Always stand your duck with its head facing toward the judges right. Stand at
attention behind the duck, facing the judge.
2. Pick up the Duck -
Always hold your duck under your left arm. To pick it up, put your left hand under
the duck’s breast, giving support to its weight and at the same time grasping the legs
together. Your thumb should be outside one leg and your index finger should be
between the duck’s legs. Use your remaining fingers to grasp the other leg of the
duck at the thigh area. Place your other hand over the back of the duck to prevent
it from trying to escape. The duck can be held with its head under your arm. The
weight of the duck should be rested on your forearm.
3. Show the Width - Spread your thumb and first finger at the base of the wings. This
shows the width of the back.
of the duck
4. Show the Tail -
With your right hand, gently push the tail feathers upwards and then downwards.
5. Show the Color -
Brush back the feathers just above the tail.
6. Body Fluff -
Turn the duck slightly sideways, brush back the feathers from the side of the tail to
the base of the wing.
7. Show the Wings -
To show the left wing, use your right hand to spread the wing. To show the right
wing, reach under the duck’s head and extend the wing.
Younger members can reach over the top of the duck, but the judge will deduct from their
showmanship mark.
8.
Show the Head - Place your right hand under the bill. Show one side then the other. Turn
4-H Waterfowl Leader Manual - 2000
the
duck
while
you are
showin
g each
side.
The
bird
should
be
elevate
4
d in the
left
hand head
outwar
d.
9.
Show the Keel - To show the keel you must tuck your hand under to flip the duck so its back is
resting against your body. Place the keel bone between your first two fingers. The
judge may feel the keel.
10.
Show the Feet -
Shown in the same position as the keel. Reach down and show the judge one foot
after the other, the top and the bottom.
The Judge may ask you to switch ducks or pick up your duck and walk around the table. Remember when
walking around the table to always keep your eye on the judge. NOTE:
Step 2 - 8 are to be done
with the duck picked up, not on the table. The duck is only on the table when it is being posed.
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JUDGING WATERFOWL
In the Waterfowl Project, members are required to examine four waterfowl and rank or place them in
order of top to bottom in the class. It’s important for you, as a leader, to be comfortable with judging so
you can teach the members.
The members will use skills they have learned in selecting their own birds when doing their judging
class. A Livestock Judging Guide Booklet is available from your 4-H Specialist as well as a Spotlight
on Judging kit. You may want to use these to help your members learn to judge waterfowl.
JUDGING A CLASS OF WATERFOWL
To evaluate each section properly, all waterfowl in a judging class or in competition at exhibition,
county shows or 4-H Show must be handled by the judge.
Waterfowl showing symptoms of a contagious or communicable disease should not be exhibited at a
show.
The following steps can be used to examine waterfowl in a judging class. The Livestock Judging Guide
has information on the Interpretation of Standards for Judges on Poultry. It includes waterfowl as well.
Refer to this when preparing your members for judging.
•
Step back from the class and take an overall look at each waterfowl (individually and as a group)
for general appearance.
•
Examine the duck’s head area.
•
Look at the duck’s eyes to check their size and color and to observe for blindness. Point your
index finger at both eyes.
•
Examine the bill to determine its color, shape and whether it is short and wide. Look to see if the
color of the bill is true to the breed or the sex.
•
Examine the bird’s head to see if its short, round and wide. Check to see how prominent are the
cheeks of the bird and the condition of the head plumage.
•
Examine the bird’s neck area for length and strength, ducks generally have strong necks. Check
the arch of the neck. Examine the feather condition of the neck for abnormal coloring.
•
Use the palm of your hand to run over the duck’s back to determine its length and width. Meat
variety ducks will have a long and wide back. Check the back feathers for the under color and
for signs of molting or missing feathers.
•
Check to see that all tail feathers are present. Look for curled feathers, an adult drake will have
curled sex feathers in the middle of the tail feathers.
•
Check the abdominal area and look for the vent opening.
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•
•
Use your fingers to examine the spread of the pubic bones, the space between the rear of the keel
bone and the pubic bone.
Look at the abdomen area for the duck’s trimness (leanness) and hardness. Check the feather
condition in this area.
•
Check the legs for straightness, cleanliness, color and abnormality.
•
Examine the toes and toe nails for color, length and to see if any toe nails are missing.
•
Check the webs of the feet for damage, abnormalities and parasites.
•
Look at the foot for abnormalities and abscesses.
•
Look at the breast area for the length of the keel (breast) bone, checking for any defects such as
dented keel bone. Also check the feather condition and the amount of meat on the breast area
(this is important for meat birds).
•
Examine the wings by spreading each one open. Look at the condition of the primary and
secondary feathers and coverts. Check for signs of molting.
•
Examine the crop for fullness and abnormalities.
In judging Rouen and Gray Call Drakes in the summer or fall, allowance must be made for summer molt
common to males of these varieties.
Importance of Feather Quality
Feathers act as a protective covering for waterfowl, protecting it from cold, rain, sun and injury, also
aiding in short flight. It is important that the feather be broad, the web of good firm texture, with a
strong shaft, the barbs, barbules and barbicels closely and tightly knitted together, except a very few
ornamental breeds such as Sebastapol Geese. Judges are instructed to consider this.
PARTS OF YOUR WATERFOWL
It is important to know all of the parts of your duck or drake. In Showmanship, you are expected to be
able to show the judge parts of your duck when asked.
...........................................................
...........................................................
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Parts of a Duck
. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1.
. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 2.
. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 3.
. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 4.
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Crown
15.We
bbing
Iris16.
Outer
toe
Forehe
ad17.
Hind
toe
Face or
lores18
.Shank
or
3
. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 5.
. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 6.
. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 7.
. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 8.
. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 9.
. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 10.
. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 11.
. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 12.
. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 13.
. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 14.
tarsus
Malar
region
19.
Under
tail
coverts
Nostril
20.Tail
feather
s
Upper
Mandi
ble21.
Upper
tail
coverts
Bean2
2.Sex
feather
s
Lower
mandib
le23.R
ump
Ear
coverts
24.Pri
mary
feather
s
Breast
25.Sec
ondary
feather
s
Wing
coverts
26.Spe
culum
Inner
toe27.
Mantle
Middle
toe28.
Nape
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APPENDIX
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SPACE REQUIREMENTS FOR DUCKLINGS . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
SPACE REQUIREMENTS
Age in Weeks
1 to 2
2 to 3
3 to 4
4 to 5
5 to 8
8 or more
Area per
Duckling
cm²
900
1350
1800
2250
2700
4500
Feed
Space
(sq ft)
(1)
(1½)
(2)
(2½)
(3)
(5)
cm
2.5
2.5
3.7
5.0
5.0
7.5
(in.)
(1)
(1)
(1½)
(2)
(2)
(3)
Water
Space
mm
12
12
25
25
25
37
(in.)
(½)
(½)
(1)
(1)
(1)
(1½)
SUGGESTED FEEDING SCHEDULE FOR DUCKLINGS
02 - Weeks
Type of Duckling
kilograms (pounds) of
20% Starter Feed
per Bird Daily
“Green”
Small Breed
Free choice
Free choice
Egg Breed
Medium Breed
Large Breed
Muscovy
Free choice
Free choice
Free choice
Free choice
2 - 7 Weeks
___________________
kilograms (pounds)
of 18% Grower Feed
per Bird Daily
Free choice
Free choice 5
min. twice daily
Same as above
Same as above
Same as above
Same as above
7 - 20 Weeks
______________
Kilograms (pounds) of
16% Developer Feed
per Bird Daily
.06 - .11 (0.15 - 0.25)
.09 - .14 (0.20 - 0.30)
.11 - .16 (0.25 - 0.35)
.14 - .18 (0.30 - 0.40)
.09 - .18 (0.20 - 0.40)
The quantity of feed required by ducklings is highly dependent on the availability of natural foods,
climatic conditions and the quality of feed (e.g., birds require larger amounts of high fiber foods than
low fiber foods to meet their energy requirements)
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BREEDS OF DUCKS
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...........................................................
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White Pekin
The White Pekin is well suited for the production of meat. It produces good quality meat and reaches a
market weight of about seven (7) pounds in approximately eight weeks. It is a large, white feathered
bird. Its bill is an orange-yellow color, its legs and feet are a reddish-yellow color and it has a yellow
skin. The adult drake weighs nine pounds, the adult duck weighs eight pounds.
The White Pekin is a fairly good egg producer. The average yearly egg production reaches
approximately 160 eggs. It is a poor setter and seldom raises a brood of ducklings.
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Breeds of Ducks
...........................................................
...........................................................
...........................................................
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Khaki Campbell
The Khaki Campbells were developed in England. Several varieties of the Khaki Campbell ducks have
been selected for high egg production. The egg production of some of these varieties is reported to
average close to 365 eggs per duck in a laying year. It is interesting to note that this is a higher rate of
production than the highest producing strains of chickens.
The male has a brownish bronze lower back, tail coverts, head and neck, and the rest of his plumage is
khaki. The beak is greenish black and the legs and toes brown. The adults weigh only 4.5 pounds, thus
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the Khaki Campbell is not known for the production of meat.
Breeds of Ducks
...........................................................
Mallard Ducks
The Standard Mallard Duck originates from the wild Mallard of North America. The graceful wild lines
and show of alertness are important characteristics. This breed undergoes a summer molt, during the
period of which the male plumage resembles that of the female. This molt is known as the eclipse. It
starts in June and is complete in August. From September to November, and sometimes even later, it is
replaced by the regular winter plumage.
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Breeds of Ducks
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Muscovy
The Muscovy originated in South America. It is a distinct race, and when crossed with other races of
ducks its progeny is sterile. The period of incubation for eggs of this variety is thirty-five days instead of
twenty-eight, as with other races of ducks.
There are several varieties of Muscovies, the white being the most desirable for market purposes. They
produce meat of excellent quality and taste when marketed before 17 weeks of age. They
are relatively poor egg producers but good setters. The difference in size of drakes and ducks is
remarkable, as the males are must larger than the females. Muscovies have white skin.
Breeds of Ducks
...........................................................
Rouen
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The Rouen duck is similar to the Mallard. It has the same striking color patterns as the Mallard but is
much larger. The adult drake weighs ten pounds, while the adult duck weighs nine pounds. Its pigmented
plumage gives it a less desirable dressed appearance. It is excellent for home consumption, where the
dressed appearance is not so important.
Breeds of Ducks
...........................................................
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Aylesbury
The Aylesbury originated in England and, like the White Pekin duck, is a good meat bird. It reaches
market weight in about eight weeks. The Aylesbury has white feathers, white skin, a flesh colored bill,
light orange legs and feet. The eggs are tinted white. The adult drake weight nine pounds and the adult
duck weighs eight pounds. It lays somewhat fewer eggs than the White Pekin and is also a poor setter.
Breeds of Ducks
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Call Ducks
Call Ducks are in the Bantam Class. Along with the Mallard and East India, they are one of the smallest
breeds. They come in Gray, White, Blue and Snowy. They should be small in size, although type should
not be sacrificed for smallness.
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Breed Profiles
Category
Breed
Weight in Pounds
M
F
Yearly Egg
Production
Egg Size per Dozen
Ounces
Mothering Ability
Foraging Ability
Availability
Egg
Bali
Campbell
Runner
5.0
4.5
4.5
4.5
4.5
4.0
150 - 250*
250-325+
225-325+
30-36
28-34
30-36
Poor
Poor
Poor
Good
Excellent
Excellent
Poor
Good
Good
Meat
Aylesbury
Muscovy
Pekin
Rouen
9.0
12.0
9.0
9.0
8.0
7.0
8.0
8.0
35 - 125
50 - 125
125 - 175
35 - 150
36 - 42
44 - 50
38 - 42
36 - 44
Fair
Excellent
Poor
Fair
Fair
Excellent
Fair - Good
Fair - Good
Fair
Good
Excellent
Excellent
General
Purpose
Cayuga
Crested
Magpie
Orpington
Swedish
8.0
7.0
6.0
8.0
8.0
7.0
6.0
5.0
7.0
7.0
100 - 175
100- 175
125 - 225
150 - 250
100 - 150
34 - 38
34 - 38
30 - 36
30 - 36
34 - 40
Good
Fair
Poor
Poor
Good
Good
Good
Good
Good
Good
Fair
Fair
Poor
Fair
Fair
Bantam
Australian
Spotted
Call
East Indie
Mallard
2.5
2.2
25 - 100*
22 - 30
Excellent
Excellent
Poor
1.8
2.0
2.8
1.6
1.8
2.4
25 - 75
25 - 125
25 - 125
18 - 24
18 - 28
24 - 30
Excellent
Excellent
Excellent
Excellent
Excellent
Excellent
Good
Fair
Excellent
Information presented in this profile is based on the average characteristics of each breed. Actual performance of individuals may vary
considerably from the norm.
* Estimates
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GlOSSARY
Bantams - The Miniature breeds of ducks. Usually one-fourth to one-fifth the weight of regular ducks.
Biotin - A vitamin found in most feedstuffs.
Breed - A group of ducks whose members posses similar body shape, body size, temperament and the
ability to pass these characteristics on to their offspring.
Breeder ration - Feed used for the production of hatching eggs.
Breeding Stock - Adult birds used to produce young.
Broody Hen - A hen that wants to set on eggs. When a hen is broody, her personality undergoes a marked
change; she spends much of the time on the nest, ruffles her feathers when molested, pecks at intruders
and quacks incessantly while off the nest. Small groups of waterfowl can be brooded by broody chicken
hens and most breeds of ducks. Some literature calls them foster hens.
Concentrated Feed - Feeds that are high in protein, carbohydrates, fats, vitamins and minerals, and are low in
fiber.
Culling - The process of eliminating inferior (crippled, deformed, diseased, low-producing) birds.
Drake - The mature male duck.
Duck - In general, any member of the Anatinae family; it is often used specifically in reference to females
of the duck family. Also, a mature female duck.
Ducklings - Young ducks up until feathers have completely replaced their baby down.
Eclipse Molt - A four to six week period each year, usually in mid-summer, when the bright plumage of
colored adult drakes is replaced with subdued colors similar to those of the female. This molt occurs for
camouflage while the flight feathers are being replaced.
Embryo - The young bird before it emerges from the egg.
Esophagus - The tube in which food passes from the mouth to the digestive tract.
Feed Conversion - The ability of birds to convert feed into body growth or eggs. To calculate feed conversion
rations, divide pounds of feed consumed by pounds of body weight or eggs.
Fertility - In reference to eggs, the capability of producing an embryo. Fertility is expressed as a percentage
that equals the total number of eggs set minus those that are infertile, divide by the total number set,
times 100.
Full-feathered - When a bird has a complete set of feathers.
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Gizzard - The muscular organ that contains grit for grinding the food eaten by birds.
Growing ration - Feed that is formulated to stimulate fast growth in ducklings over two weeks old.
Hatchability - Refers to number of fertile eggs that hatch; usually expressed as a percentage.
Laying ration - Feed that is formulated to stimulate high egg production.
Molt - The process of shedding old feathers and regrowing new feathers.
Niacin - A B-complex vitamin. Niacin deficiency causes bowing of the legs.
Nuptial plumage - In colored varieties of ducks, the bright breeding plumage of males exhibited during fall,
winter and spring.
Pin feathers - The tips of new feathers coming through or about to come through a birds skin.
Pip - The hole a newly formed duckling makes in its shell when it is ready to come out; also the act of
making a hole.
Post-mortem - The thorough examination of a dead bird, usually to determine the cause of death.
Production-bred - Ducks that have been selected for top meat and /or production.
Purebred - Ducks of a specific breed that have not been crossed with other breeds for many generations.
Setting hen - A broody hen that is in the process of incubating a nest of eggs.
Straight run - Young poultry that have not been sexed.
Waterfowl - Birds that naturally spend most of their lives on and near water.
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REFERENCES
American Standard of Perfection 1998,
1998 The American Poultry Association, Inc.
Duck and Goose Raising.
Raising H.L. ORR Associate Professor, Department of Animal and Poultry Science, Ontario
Agricultural College, University of Guelph.
Managing a Small Duck Flock,
Flock Information Services, Canada Department of Agriculture, Ottawa, KlA OC7
Nutrition and Management of Ducks,
Ducks M.L. Scott of Ithaca, P.O. Box 4464, Ithaca, NY, 14852
Raising the Home Duck Flock,
Flock Dave Holderread, Storey Communication, Inc., Pownal, Vermont, 05261
4-H Poultry Fitting & Showmanship Members Guide,
Guide 4-H Youth Programs, Michigan State University Extension,
Michigan State University, East Lansing, MI, 48824
NOTE:
Raising the Home Duck Flock and American Standard of Perfection can be ordered through Berry
Hill Limited. Country Living and Farm Supplies. There is a toll free number - 1-800-668-3072.
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