Captain Charlie`s Boating 101

Captain Charlie's
Boating 101
All You Need to Know
© 2009, Charles V. Balch
http://charlie.balch.org
[email protected]
Dedication
Thanks to the many people who have sailed with me and let me join them on their
boats. Each of you, through your joy, has taught me more of how to love and
respond to the sea.
To my grandfather, Charles Breath, who on his boat, the Romac, taught me that
sailing should be comfortable, safe and fun. I will always cherish those
afternoons sailing on the Bay.
To my father, John, who showed me one of the proper ways to sail the
Caribbean. See, I really was paying attention.
To Alex, my wife and partner in all things, who I have happily have given my
heart, mind and soul. I look forward to a life of wonderful adventures. And
always love.
And finally, but certainly not least, to Ubi Libertas who has carried me to so
many wonderful places. Long may you ride the waves.
Of course all errors are someone else's’ fault. I’m the captain.
Table of Contents
Dedication ............................................. i
Table of Contents ................................. ii
Introduction ........................................... 1
Boating’s Ten Commandments ............ 2
The Captain .......................................... 2
THE CAPTAIN & THE CREW .......................................... 3
Before You Leave the Dock.................. 4
PLANNING YOUR TRIP .................................................. 4
PREPARING FOR A CHARTER ........................................ 5
PERSONAL STUFF ....................................................... 5
LUGGAGE .................................................................. 5
CLOTHING .................................................................. 6
SHOES ...................................................................... 7
CAMERAS, VCRS & COMPUTERS................................. 7
PERSONAL SAFETY...................................................... 7
SUNBURN .................................................................. 8
HEALTH ..................................................................... 9
AT YOUR DOCTOR’S ................................................... 9
AT YOUR PHARMACY .................................................. 9
HEALTH ISSUES ........................................................ 10
SEASICKNESS .......................................................... 11
LOCAL CONCERNS ................................................... 12
DRUGS .................................................................... 12
BOAT SAFETY ........................................................... 12
BOAT SAFETY CHECKLIST ......................................... 12
When You Get There ......................... 13
ON THE BOAT ........................................................... 13
COMMUNICATIONS ..................................................... 13
REPORTING EMERGENCIES ........................................ 15
US COAST GUARD .................................................... 16
BOAT ETIQUETTE ...................................................... 17
HELPING OUT........................................................... 17
FLAGS ..................................................................... 17
NOISE ..................................................................... 18
VISITING OTHER BOATS ............................................. 18
PARTIES .................................................................. 18
DRINKING ................................................................ 18
NUDITY .................................................................... 18
FOOD ....................................................................... 19
KITCHEN EQUIPMENT ................................................ 19
REFRIGERATION AND ICE ........................................... 19
PROVISIONING & EATING ABOARD ............................. 20
LOCAL FOODS & FISHING .......................................... 20
KEEPING THINGS CLEAN ............................................ 21
FRESH WATER .......................................................... 22
TRASH ..................................................................... 22
SMOKING .................................................................. 22
THE HEAD (TOILET) ................................................... 22
General Boat Handling ....................... 23
WHAT YOU HAVE TO KNOW........................................ 23
MOVING AROUND ...................................................... 24
BUOYS ..................................................................... 24
HOW BOATS MOVE.................................................... 25
STEERING ................................................................. 26
DINGHIES ................................................................. 27
WATER SKIING & JET SKIS ........................................ 28
PERSON OVERBOARD ................................................ 28
PERSON OVERBOARD DRILL ..................................... 29
KNOTS & LINES ........................................................ 29
ANCHORING, DOCKING, & RAFTING UP ....................... 30
ANCHORING ............................................................. 31
ANCHORING CHECKLIST ............................................ 32
DOCKING ................................................................. 34
SLIPS ...................................................................... 35
RAFTING UP............................................................. 35
Sailing ................................................. 36
RACING ................................................................... 37
WEATHER ................................................................. 37
Off the Boat ........................................ 38
BOAT SECURITY ........................................................ 38
VISITING A NEW SPOT ................................................ 39
CUSTOMS & OTHER OFFICIALS ................................... 40
ANIMALS .................................................................. 41
FOREIGN LANGUAGES ............................................... 41
MONEY..................................................................... 41
STANDARD CONVERSIONS ......................................... 42
TIPPING ................................................................... 43
BEGGARS ................................................................ 43
After You Get Back ............................. 43
Appendix I: Further Knowledge .......... 45
ORGANIZATIONS ........................................................ 45
BOOKS ..................................................................... 45
SAFETY ................................................................... 45
SEAMANSHIP ........................................................... 45
NAVIGATION ............................................................. 46
REPAIRS & MAINTENANCE ........................................ 46
ETIQUETTE............................................................... 46
LIVING ABOARD ....................................................... 46
EASY READING ........................................................ 46
GENERAL ................................................................ 47
Appendix II: Weather Terms ............... 48
BEAUFORT SCALE ..................................................... 49
HURRICANE STRENGTHS BY CATEGORY ...................... 50
Appendix III: Glossary........................ 52
Appendix IV: Quick Reference ........... 60
AT YOUR DOCTOR’S ................................................. 60
AT YOUR PHARMACY ................................................. 60
BOAT SAFETY CHECKLIST .......................................... 60
PERSON OVERBOARD DRILL ...................................... 61
ANCHORING CHECKLIST............................................. 62
Notes .................................................. 63
About the Author................................. 64
Boating 101
1
Introduction
The basic rules of boating are to be careful and have respect for others.
This booklet is intended for persons who have little or no experience on boats or in the
boating environment and are thus not entirely sure how to be careful or demonstrate respect. I
cover a basic orientation on what to expect, what to bring, and how to behave in the marine
environment. The more experienced boater may find this booklet useful as a personal review
or as an aid in acquainting your guests with boat life.
Boats are a unique environment. Careful planning is required because it is often not a
simple matter to pop over to the corner store. Resources are limited to what is on hand.
Power and water, which come from internal sources, must be carried and conserved. As they
move and are in the water, boats are subject to a unique variety of dangers.
Some things in this book may scare you. Good. A little fear (read respect) is healthy.
However, there would not be such a variety of boating enthusiasts if boating were not
basically safe and much fun. With proper understanding and respect, which is what this book
is all about, boating is safe and fun. Don‟t let rare (but real) disasters scare you away from
boating.
Most people who have spent time on a boat agree that it is among their best experiences. The
superlative experiences occur when you are comfortable with your environment. So, while a
bunch of rules can be perceived as getting in the way of fun, attention to the following will
make you safer and more comfortable. Being safe and comfortable should increase your fun.
Proper behavior is not difficult.
This booklet just covers the basics. It is beyond the scope of any book to explain the
intricacies of living aboard and maintaining a boat for a long period of time.
All boats require their own special kind of attention. You should attempt to learn these
special needs (and strengths) from someone who understands the particular boat that you will
be on. It is the very rare captain that doesn't have strong opinions about how their boat should
be treated. When there is time for the conversation, it is an even rarer captain who isn't
willing to share their opinions.
There is probably more material here than you need at first. Don‟t burn yourself out reading
everything; instead, read or skim the appropriate sections. If you are going on an extended
trip, read a bit here and there as you need. Feel free to skip to the section on nudity -- most
everybody does.
Bon Voyage,
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Captain Charlie's
Boating’s Ten Commandments
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Thou shalt be careful.
Thou shalt obey the captain’s orders.
Thou shalt keep things clean and stowed properly.
Thou shalt have fun.
Thou shalt show respect to everyone.
Thou shalt be sparing with fresh water.
Thou shalt use the head properly.
Thou shalt anchor properly.
Thou shalt not bring drugs aboard.
Thou shalt not drink too much.
Thou shalt not throw any trash overboard.
Thou shalt not get sand on the boat.
Thou shalt not get salt water below deck.
Thou shalt not make noise in a quiet anchorage.
Thou shalt not count the commandments.
I understand that many of the above are judgment calls and/or something you may not know
how to do. Read on and things will be explained.
The Captain
Every boat needs a captain. The captain is in charge of making sure that all necessary work
is completed and the boat is safe. This does not mean that the captain must do all of the tasks.
This also does not mean that the captain perceives or even knows everything that must be
done. If you see something that you think needs correction or attention, bring it to the
captain‟s notice.
The captain may or may not be the owner. While it is theoretically possible for the role of
captain to be a rotating job, this does not seem to work in practice.
There are a number of horror stories that resulted from a lack of communication between
captain and crew. Unless you have prior approval from the captain, it is best not to “just do” a
non-assigned task yourself. Many captains are very particular about such things as how lines
are coiled and knots are tied (see the General Boat Handling section). The captain should be
informed before a non-routine task is started and when it is finished.
Routine and assigned tasks do not need to be reported to the captain and are done as needed.
Your captain will decide which tasks are routine. In example, if you are put in charge of the
jib sheets (see Sailing), there may be five or six tasks that you will routinely do when the boat
turns (comes about). You should only inform the captain (quickly!) if you are having
problems with completing one of these tasks. Doing the dishes is another example of a
routine task. The captain may need to reassign the priorities of tasks moment by moment.
Your captain will be appreciative if you report something that he/she may have missed.
Examples are: funny sounds from the engine, fishing buoys that are in the boat‟s path, boats
Boating 101
3
on a collision course, sloshing water on the floorboards, an ill person, backed up plumbing,
etc. Most captains also appreciate being informed about interesting, beautiful or unusual
sights.
Unless your observation involves safety, don‟t distract your captain when he/she is obviously
busy. Waking the captain up is a judgment call. You‟ll either get high praise and special
consideration or be forced to walk the plank. Ask yourself, “is this important?”
The Captain & the Crew
The captain lives a nervous life. Captains are responsible for everyone and everything on
the ship. The more a captain respects this responsibility the more touchy he/she tends to get.
This nervous responsibility often results in the captain yelling commands and advice (if you
think cruising/pleasure captains are bad, don‟t even think about racing).
Relationships can get a tough test on a boat. Put a usually wonderful and loving mate in the
position of captain and they frequently turn into the Mate From Hell. It often appears that
captains would just as soon keelhaul you as look at you.
Yelling is a problem. For some reason, the people being yelled at take this personally and
many captains end up yelling at everyone. Unfortunately these captains do not realize that
people are not as effective when they are being yelled at. With a good crew, any command
that is heard and understood is effective. Yelling at a bad crew probably won‟t help. Two
views should be considered: the captain‟s and the crews' (the yeller‟s and the yellee‟s).
The Yeller has a mission critical message. There is often a sense of urgency on boats. Many
jobs must be done two moments ago or at least RIGHT NOW; your captain may translate this
urgency into angry words or tone. Then again, sometimes the only way that a person knows
how to make their voice loud is to assume an urgent or angry tone. It is part of the yellee‟s job
to ignore the tone and focus on the job. You are literally on the same boat together – work as
a team.
Jobs must be clearly assigned and understood. Captain and crew should talk about jobs
way ahead of time. It is difficult and frustrating to try to accomplish a complex procedure
explained “on the fly” (particularly if the captain doesn‟t really understand the procedure
either). Even experienced boaters often don‟t understand all the procedures that they may be
expected to do on a new boat. It is the captain‟s job to explain what will be expected while
there is time for clear thought and questions. This generally means before the task comes up.
Either party should feel free to repeat the instructions or ask for more information.
Novices should be given simple tasks. If a job is not understood, the person assigned to it
should say so and either get further explanation or not do the job. For jobs like anchoring,
where communication across a boat may be difficult, signals should be arranged. Agree on
a few easily understood signals. A minimum set would be:
Left (port),
right (starboard),
release anchor at this spot,
anchor attached (holding),
anchor un-attached (free).
No one likes to be yelled at. However, the time to discuss your feelings is after the boat is
safe, not during some tricky maneuver. If your captain yells at you to jump, jump first, then
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Captain Charlie's
ask how high. For the safety of yourself, the rest of the crew, and the boat, jobs must get
done now. If it‟s really that bad, you can jump ship (leave) later.
Before You Leave the Dock
There are a number of things that you should consider and do before you leave the dock.
Preparation is always helpful in the long run. If you have any questions, your charter
company and/or captain should be a good source of information.
Planning Your Trip
The best way to decide your itinerary is to purchase and read boating
guides that cover your intended area. Bring these guides along on
your trip. You will find them invaluable. Be sure that you also have
appropriate charts (maps that show water depth, passages and
anchorages). Think about what kind of experience you want.
Would you prefer secluded bays, quaint villages, big cities,
interesting natural phenomena, shopping, catching fish, partying,
quiet or what? Do you like to cook? Given enough time, you can
do it all. But, with limited time, keep your itinerary rational. Would you prefer to spend your
time feeling the boat move or resting quietly at anchor? Be sure to get a consensus on the
answers to these questions before you leave.
Be realistic in your expectations. Sales brochures try to get you excited. Take those
pictures of people elegantly dining aboard and seeing exotic sights with a grain of salt. It‟s
real (sometimes) but you will have a much better time if your expectations are exceeded rather
than dashed.
Don’t plan on leaving the dock right away. Particularly if you are on a bareboat charter,
don‟t expect to just hop on the boat and leave just after you arrive. Boats are complex and
require time to get familiar with. It is best to plan on spending the afternoon and first night on
the boat wherever you begin your trip. Rushing creates problems; time anticipating and
correcting minor problems can make a huge difference on your voyage. Besides, the spot
you‟re leaving may have things to offer. . .
Be prepared to change your plans. While it is important to have some idea of where you
are going, it is a good idea to be flexible once you are underway. Weather changes. It is
foolish to stick to an itinerary when the weather makes it difficult. You will discover some
wonderful spots and want to stay longer than planned. Inform concerned parties (see the
Communications section) if you change your itinerary.
While it is possible to do it all, do you want to? What‟s the point in running through a great
museum? Just to say you‟ve been there and “seen” it all? Less is usually better. If a spot is
nice, think about staying for a couple of days before moving on. Boating is fun, but so is
relaxing and discovering a new place. You can do both. Talk things over with before you
leave. Some people prefer to sit more and move less. Others prefer to cover lots of ground
and vice versa. Both groups are often surprised to learn that anyone would think differently.
Choose your anchorages carefully. Pay special attention to the quality of the anchorages;
you will sleep better if the boat is well secured and not rolling (or, worse, drifting) about.
Consider the slowest speed that the boat may move between anchorages and the time of day
that you want to move the boat. Do not plan on entering an anchorage after dark; it‟s best to
plan on at least three hours of daylight in which to prepare for darkness and safely enjoy your
Boating 101
5
spot. Besides, it can be fun to watch other people try to anchor and boats don't always move
as fast as planned.
Most places have a “tourist season.” During this time, prices are higher and anchorages
crowded. Consider traveling off-season.
Preparing for a Charter
Chartering a boat is one of the best ways to enjoy the boating experience. It is certainly a
great vacation. Your preparations will vary depending on whether the vessel will be crewed
and the resources available on the vessel.
Your charter agency can be very helpful. If you are chartering a boat, be sure to select a
reliable charter agency (ask for recommendations). Also ask what it will cost you if you have
to cancel or wish to extend your trip. Get recommendations on where to go but make your
own plans. Let them know your itinerary. If they tell you not to do something, don’t do it!
Do you want a local captain? A tough question. Here are some of the pros and cons. You
decide.
PRO:
A local captain can show you (and safely bring you to) places that even guide books miss;
A local captain will assist you in getting comfortable with the boat;
A local captain helps those people who are not so comfortable with sailing get used to sailing
without “experts” or “novices” getting emotionally involved (don‟t want to sound too
sexist here but read this as “wives generally don‟t want to be instructed by their
husbands”);
Many charter agencies will not allow a boat in some of the more desirable/interesting
anchorages unless there is a local captain aboard;
With a local captain, you are not alone for your sailing experience.
CON:
Local captains cost more;
With a local captain, you are not alone for your sailing experience.
A good “compromise” is to hire a local captain for the first few days then take over. . .
Personal Stuff
Simple is best. You probably don‟t need much to be comfortable and happy.
Luggage
Bring proper luggage. The best luggage for medium sized boats is a canvas duffel bag.
Canvas bags are inexpensive; hold a lot; don‟t mind getting a little wet; won‟t scuff up the
fine finish of a yacht; can be shaped to fit any space that‟s convenient; are easy to carry; and
look very nautical. Once the contents of a canvas bag are put away, the bag can be folded and
put away. Special note: for all the reasons above, most boat owners/captains hate those hard
pieces of luggage with wheels. Also consider bringing a backpack or small canvas bag for
shopping expeditions. On smaller boats consider bringing a waterproof bag such as used on
white water rafting trips for your delicate possessions such as cameras.
Small is great. Consider how much luggage you really need. Boat space is very limited.
Spending your time dodging, moving, sorting and protecting mounds of luggage is no fun.
Most of us go boating to enjoy getting away from it all. Carrying around a bunch of stuff is
not getting away from it all.
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Captain Charlie's
Simple is best. I am always impressed with the person who just brings a single small or
medium sized bag for a week‟s trip and I have yet to hear such a person complain that they
didn‟t have something they really needed. For a day trip, you might just bring some suntan
lotion, a towel, a disposable waterproof camera, and a change of clothes. Even simpler would
be to just wear a swim suit under comfortable clothes. You might skip the towel, and let the
breeze and sun dry you off (if you want to use a towel, bring one). For longer trips, include a
book and a couple more changes of clothes. Bringing just enough shows that you really know
what you need and don‟t need. This will impress your captain and crew. It will also free you
up to have more fun.
Clothing
Ask your captain/charter agency what kind of
weather to expect and what types of clothes are
recommended.
When possible, keep it light. How many swim suits can
you wear? Bring one or two and hang the spare out to
dry. How many changes of clothes do you really need?
Bring a few changes of comfortable cotton clothes. Even
in warm environments, to protect against sunburn and in
case it gets a little cold or buggy, you should have a light
pair of long pants and long sleeve shirt. A sweatshirt,
raincoat, and/or windbreaker might come in handy as
well. If you need more, it might be a good excuse to buy
that great piece of native clothing at the beach side store!
Ashore, your selection of attire should defer to local custom. Shirtless men and women who
are exposing "too much" offend many locals. If you dress the way that you would to visit a
small local town where you're from (in the local weather), you should fit right in.
On the few formal occasions that come up while boating, local participants are very
understanding of a limited wardrobe. For example, the closest most people get to a formal
occasion is the festivities at the end of a race. While the invitation may read otherwise, race
festivities are usually casual. At the end of most boat races, there is a “formal awards dinner.”
Racers often spend tens of thousands of dollars preparing their boats for races and you can be
sure that they could afford a jacket and tie. Despite this, I have observed that many men do
not wear a jacket and many of the men who wear jackets use a sail tie (a strip of canvas used
to tie up the sails) as their tie. Many of the others do not wear a tie at all. Even people who
have an accessible tie, often wear their sail ties because it is more appropriate, yachty or fun.
Women are, by boating definition, always properly dressed.
A major goal is to stay dry. If you keep getting spray, don‟t get your entire wardrobe wet by
changing every ten minutes. While out to sea, consider going nude (watch out for sunburn) or
keep the wet stuff on until you are sure that there will be no more spray. While it is expensive
and bulky, foul weather gear is designed to keep you warm and dry. I have heard people
recommend and curse nylon underwear. There are a few (curable) diseases that you can get by
wearing wet clothing continuously for days on end. Almost everyone gets “diaper rash” from
sitting around for days in wet clothes. Treasure time to get warm and dry.
Boating 101
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Shoes
Proper shoes are important. One of the first things that any captain or crew
will look at is what type of shoe you are wearing. This is not kinky or status
check like checking your wristwatch to see what kind of bucks you make. They
want to know if what you are wearing will hurt the boat. Don‟t even think
about wearing high heels.
Don‟t wear shoes that leave any sort of scuff mark. When choosing boat shoes
rub it on the floor to see if it leaves a mark. Most tennis shoes, sandals, and
“Top Sider®” style “deck” shoes are always acceptable. “Reef Runner®” or water socks (as
used for wind surfing) style shoes are also good and, unlike many other types of shoes, will
improve your traction on deck and dry quickly. Wash your water sock style shoes often. They
can develop a smell.
Unless it‟s cold, the best boat shoe is none at all. On a boat, barefoot is very acceptable.
Most establishments that cater to boat crowds don‟t mind if you are not wearing shoes but I
suggest that you wear shoes ashore anyway because of broken glass and such.
In fact, as much as barefoot feels careless and free, I recommend that you wear shoes all the
time. If your not used to being barefoot (experience more years ago than you care to talk
about doesn‟t count), wear shoes as much as possible. Shoes are easy and hurting your feet
can ruin a good time. . .
Cameras, VCRs & Computers
Cameras and VCRs are a mixed blessing. I have seen a lot of great pictures taken on boats.
I‟ve also seen many expensive cameras either destroyed by the boating environment or stolen.
While you will be getting images that you can share with friends and look at for a lifetime,
you may find yourself paying more attention to your camera than the environment. The new
disposable ones are one exception; they take acceptable pictures and some are waterproof.
There are also a lot of great inexpensive and small digital cameras out there.
The best camera may be someone else's. If someone just took a great picture of you, ask
them to send a copy; it‟s a great way to break the ice. Bring some business cards.
Be careful when you use your camera or VCR. Boats are not a stable platform. I‟ve caught
more than one person as they were about to fall off the boat (camera and all). Unless you have
a waterproof camera and the captain‟s permission, underwater shots of flipper are not a good
idea.
If you do bring a camera/VCR be sure to bring plenty of film/memory. Film is usually
cheaper at home and you may not want to spend the time shopping. Buy slow film (around
ASA 60-200) for daylight shots. Polarizing filters are often helpful to remove glare.
You don‟t want to pay your taxes (duty) twice. Before you leave, stop by the airport or call US
Customs to have your very expensive equipment‟s serial numbers registered. This can also
help if they are stolen. Regular cameras and such don't need special considerations.
Always ask before you take a picture of someone else.
Personal Safety
The intent of the following is not to scare. Boating accidents are rare. The biggest danger that
you are probably facing is sunburn (don‟t underestimate sunburn!). Most of the rest of the
following occurrences are extremely rare, but a bit of easy preparation can save you much
grief.
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Captain Charlie's
The basic rule is to be prepared and careful, particularly when moving around (see the General
Boating section). After almost any misfortune, there will be time to stop and think. Use that
time to make a plan. Even better is to have a plan beforehand. Know what you are going to
do before problems occur.
It does not hurt to have a person overboard drill on the first day out. You might want to have
someone other than the captain do the steering for the drill. The most nervous person might
be the best person to choose as the temporary captain. Use a life vest or such as the person
overboard.
Boats are self-contained, floating environments. As such, they require a lot of special
attention and actions. After astronauts return to the earth, they will often have a few days
during which they accidentally try to leave things hanging in the air. Crash. You are probably
used to level surfaces staying level and having rickety piles of things stay put. Unless you
want to hear a crash, everything on boats (including yourself) must be placed and secured as if
you expect it to be tilted in any direction at any moment. While these rules can be relaxed
somewhat when you are at the dock or in a calm anchorage, since passing boats can leave a
big wake, some care is required at all times.
Watch out for “boat bites!” You will be on a hard moving surface with lots of movable parts.
It is very easy to get bruised and/or pinched.
Sunburn
Using proper sunscreen is extremely important! Don‟t worry, even with a heavy-duty
sunscreen, you will get a tan.
Sunburn is by far the most common injury on boats. A bad sunburn can make you
miserable for days (and nights). If your lifestyle doesn't involve much sun, particularly for the
first couple of days on the water, try to stay in the shade and wear a light long sleeved shirt
and long pants. Wearing a shirt when taking a long swim helps to keep you warm and
protects you from the sun. Also keep in mind that cloth and particularly wet cloth will to
protect you from sunburn.
Consider getting a tan base before you go. A few trips to a tanning booth might save you a lot
of grief. A tan base does not happen in a day or two; visit the salon at least a month before
you go and explain your goal to the operator.
Even if you are one of those people that says “I don‟t burn,” start with a very high SPF rating
and work carefully down. Remember, this an environment where there is little shade and the
water reflects the suns rays at you. All of the products on the market seem to work well. I like
the clear stuff with big numbers and aloe as it does not feel oily. I don‟t recommend the
colored zinks because they may rub off on the boat. For the same reason, don‟t bring or use
oily lotions. Oily lotions can ruin the finish on a teak deck and do terrible things to the fabrics
of cushions down below. Try to find screens that are water-resistant and advertised as “dry”
or such.
When snorkeling, wear a T-shirt. This will keep you warmer and protect you when your
screen is washed off. I know I just repeated myself -- this is important.
Be sure to cover all exposed skin areas completely. I have seen a lot of burnt feet. I‟ve also
seen a lot of small patches of sunburn where somebody “just missed a spot.” Have a friend do
your back. Don‟t forget your lips! Get a special screen for your lips; use it. I like the
chapstick style.
Boating 101
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There is a little confusion about sunscreen/sun block ratings. Sun blocks are more effective
than sunscreens. By “official” standards, the SPF (sun protection factor) rating can get no
higher than 18. A factor of 18 would indicate that, with that screen, you would burn as much
in 18 hours as you would normally in one hour without protection. Manufacturers who give
higher ratings explain that the higher numbers reflect the ability of their products to withstand
sweat and water. I buy the highest number I can find.
Should you get burned, aloe is very soothing. Get the prepared clear green kind.
On a related topic, bring at least one good pair of sunglasses and wear them. Good sunglasses
stop infrared and ultraviolet (UV) light. Although most sunglasses sold today (even the cheap
ones) do this, check to make sure. Some people get very particular about the color and type of
lens of their glasses. Preferences vary widely. My preference is gray plastic lenses so that I
see the “true” colors around me. I like plastic because, should it break, I know that it will not
shatter into my eyes (probably a minor worry as I have never heard of this happening). While
not as important as other considerations, I also like polarized lenses as they cut the through the
glare on the water. Get some sort of keeper that will hold your glasses when they try to go
swimming without you.
Health
Except for being a hard moving surface that generates random bruises on the unwary, boats
are clean healthy environments. This is not always true of the places they visit. Regardless of
where the boat is, you will not be home. Plan ahead.
Make sure that all your inoculations are current. In addition to the regular ones such as
tetanus, if you are traveling outside the United States, call the U.S. Center for Disease Control
at (404) 639-2575. This group of lengthy recorded messages (operated by touch-tone phone)
will inform you about disease problems and recommend inoculations for your destination
area. The same information is available on the Web at http://www.stolaf.edu/network/traveladvisories.html.
At Your Doctor’s
It is a good idea to get a general physical checkup before leaving on a boating trip. Be sure to
mention that you are going on a trip. While you are at the doctor's office, do the following:
• Make sure that your prescriptions are current and bring copies.
• Make sure that you have proper inoculations and that they are current for the area you will
be visiting.
• Ask about a prescription for epinephrine1 and learn how and when it should be used.
• Ask about a prescription for Lomotil® or something else potent for diarrhea.
• Have your ears checked for excess wax2.
• Ask about a prescription Scopolamine® or similar seasickness patches.
At Your Pharmacy
In addition to the normal first aid kit supplies (make sure that there is a first aid kit on your
boat), consider some additional supplies. Buy them before you leave. Supplies are usually
cheaper and easier to find at home and you don‟t want to your vacation time shopping for
1 Epinephrine is an injected drug used for serious allergic reactions such as can happen with many types of sea life –
particularly stinging jellyfish.
2 Excess wax can block your ears when diving. At best this is painful but it can easily lead to ruptured eardrums.
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Captain Charlie's
incidentals. Bring what you may need. Remember: “There are no stores at sea.” Keep
materials in an easy to find waterproof container; Tupperware® is great.
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Bring all prescribed medicines in “pharmacy labeled”3 containers,
Bring Aloe gel for after burn,
Bring antacid tablets and Milk of Magnesia,
Bring antibiotic cream,
Bring antibiotic ear drops,
Bring antihistamines and epinephrine,
Bring aspirin or Tylenol®,
Bring your preferred method of Birth Control,
Bring Cortisone cream for rashes,
Bring eye wash and use it,
Bring good sunglasses,
Bring medicine for diarrhea and constipation,
Bring plenty of strong sunblock (use it),
Bring seasickness cures,
Bring Silverdine cream for stings and rashes.
Health Issues
Mosquitoes and other biting insects an irritating and often lead to nasty sores. Sunrise and
sunset are terrible times to be on the beach. Mosquitoes and other biting insects seem to
prefer this time to bite. For some reason, persons who are visiting have much greater
reactions to bites than locals. Products like Cortisone, Silverdine cream, and other anti-itch
products can take much of the itch out of bug. Your boat is a good place to be, it is the rare
bug that ventures out over the water.
Plan on either getting constipated or having diarrhea. If you already know effective
methods for self-cure, bring them. Otherwise I recommend bringing Lomotil for diarrhea.
Lomotil requires a prescription. Get the prescription while you are getting your inoculations
and other personal prescriptions reviewed. To avoid constipation, even if you don‟t feel like
it, try to go to the bathroom at least twice a day and eat plenty of fruit (watch the mangos, they
give some people a rash). Enemas are the last ditch cure for constipation (sorry).
Anaphylactic shock can occur as a reaction to marine organisms, stinging insects and some
allergies. It is both very rare and life threatening. Bring epinephrine for response to
anaphylactic shock. Epinephrine is the stuff that people who are highly allergic to bees
routinely carry. It is a potent prescription medicine and should only be used in severe
emergencies. Ask your doctor about the symptoms to look for and how to use it. It can be
prescribed in ready-to-go syringes. After your trip, you might want to keep some at home,
work and/or in the car. It may save someone‟s life!
There are two causes for ear pain. Swimmers ear happens when water fails to drain out of
one or both ears. I find that a capful of vodka placed in the ear for about ten seconds then
poured out with a simple head turn is usually a good cure. Alcohol mixes easily with water
but pours and dries easier. Most over-the-counter remedies for swimmers ear are mainly
alcohol anyway. Why pay more? You can sometimes get the water out of an ear by bending
3 Pharmacy labels make customs officials much happier and assist in obtaining refills.
Boating 101
11
your head to bring the offending ear next to your shoulder and making a humming sound (yes,
this looks funny). Sometimes waxy buildup in the ear swells from contact with water; this can
lead to much pain and temporary deafness. The best prevention for this is to visit your doctor
before you go and have excess wax removed. Warm oil will help to remove excess wax as
well. Also use antibiotic eardrops.
Sea urchins are a common warm water threat. They look like underwater pin cushions.
While painful and temporarily crippling, they are not life threatening. If you should get spines
(it‟s almost impossible to get just one) stuck in you, don‟t try to dig them out. There are
micro spines pointing inwards that make this almost impossible. Instead dissolve them out.
Lime (lemon) juice and vinegar work well to dissolve spines. The natives have another
“acidic” cure. It does work but I‟ll let them tell you about it.
Coat all open wounds with antibiotic cream at least twice a day. Really.
Stinging jelly fish and fire coral can be life threatening but are usually just painful. The
venom of jelly fish is injected by specialized cells in the tentacles. These cells attach
themselves to the skin. Applying alcohol (drinking spirits are fine) immediately to the
inflamed area helps to reduce the toxicity of the venom. When removing the tentacles, be as
gentle as possible. Rough treatment will cause more venom to be released/injected. Fresh
water can also stimulate the release of toxins. Scraping with a dull knife and a baking soda
paste is a good way to remove tentacles. Sand also works. Heat also helps to break down the
toxins; after the tentacles have been removed apply a very hot (but not burning) wet towel.
Antihistamines, Silverdine, and Cortisone creams can help to reduce inflammation. Silverdine
is magic! Should the skin be broken, regularly apply antibiotic creams as the wound heals.
Seasickness
Seasickness is terrible. Bring some seasickness cures. There are essentially three physical
kinds: pills, patches and bands. Pills and patches attempt to prevent seasickness through
chemical means. Bands apply pressure to a point on each wrist. I have seen all methods work
well and fail miserably.
Read the instructions of your preferred cure carefully. Note that all methods require that you
use them HOURS before you begin to feel sick. Taking seasickness medicines after you feel
ill will not help and may make you feel worse. Patches, which last for days, are the least fuss
but require a prescription.
The primary cause of seasickness is the inner ear telling the body that it is in a different
orientation than the eyes and other kinetic senses feel. You can minimize your chances of
getting sick by keeping a little something in your stomach, looking at the horizon (or land) and
avoiding going below deck. Alcohol seems to make seasickness worse.
It‟s not shameful to get ill. Surprisingly, many people feel better after they throw up. If you
feel like throwing up, don‟t fight it (much) but consider where you are going to get ill.
Despite the loss of decorum, it‟s best not to be ill down below. If you miss the moving toilet
(head), it can be a real mess and, as noted above, staying below deck tends to make you feel
worse.
So throw up over the side. It's a classic but real joke -- don‟t throw up "into the wind!"
Throw up so that it won’t come back in your (or other’s) face. Your captain can tell you
which direction is best. If someone is very ill and/or throwing up, they should be constantly
supervised.
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Captain Charlie's
It feels miserable but seasickness does end. Fortunately a visit to land quickly cures the
seasick blues. It may make you feel better to know that you are not alone. I know many world
class yachtsman that admit to being ill for their first few days at sea. They think it is worth it.
Local Concerns
In tropical climates, fire coral is a hazard. Fire coral takes many shapes but it is usually a
dull mustard color. Even a light brush against fire coral will burn and create at least a rash. It
is best not to touch any coral. Fire coral is another good reason to wear a shirt while
swimming. Treat fire corral as you would a stinging jellyfish sting.
Ciguatera or fish poisoning is rare. This is good because there is no cure but time. Ask
native advice before you eat a fish. The safest fish are the open ocean fish (Tuna, Dolphin,
Sailfish, Marlin, and Wahoo). The most dangerous are reef fish (Barracuda, Jacks, Kingfish
and Spanish Mackerel). Ciguatera has not been found in lobster. Ciguatera is a neurological
toxin. The usual symptoms are stomach upsets followed by tingling sensations and pain in the
joints.
It is particularly important to try to stay warm and dry in colder climates.
Drugs
Alcohol and tobacco are legal almost everywhere. Anything else can get you in serious
trouble. Don‟t risk it.
Boat Safety
Much, if not all, of the following checklist can be relaxed or forgotten if you are hiring a boat
with a professional crew that you trust. Whether the boat is bareboat, private or chartered, the
captain should know all of the following. Everyone whether captain, crew or guest should
know a few things like how to stop the boat and what is safe to hold on to.
In American waters, the presence of a current Coast Guard Auxiliary sticker is a strong
indication that the boat is seaworthy and safe.
Boat Safety Checklist
• Know how to get current weather forecasts.
• Know where the life jackets are. Make sure that there is one per person.
• Know where the fire extinguishers are and how to use them.
• Know where you can quickly get your hands on a knife to cut lines.
• Know where a hacksaw and/or bolt cutters can be found.
• Know where the anchors, lines and winches are and how to use them.
• Know the depth of the boat below the surface (draft).
• Know how to steer the boat.
• Everyone should be able to respond correctly should a person falls overboard (man
overboard drill).
• Know where and how to use emergency steering.
• Know how to turn the engine on and off.
• Know at what speed or Revolutions Per Minute (RPMs) the engine can be safely run at.
• Know how to use the emergency engine shutoff.
• Know how to use the cooking equipment.
• Raise and examine the sails for rips and tears.
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Boating 101
Know how to shorten (reef) the sails.
Know at what wind speeds the sails should be reefed.
Look at all the rigging for signs of fatigue or corrosions.
Know the basics of how and when the electrical system is charged.
Know how to turn on the bilge pumps.
Know how to operate the shower(s) and head(s).
Know how much water and fuel the boat holds and how to check the levels.
Know where the VHF radio is and how to use it.
Make sure the VHF radio works.
Know who to contact in emergencies. Get their phone numbers.
Know who to contact to make a VHF phone call.
Know where the VHF settings are.
Know how to turn on night running and anchoring lights.
Know where the navigation instruments are and how to turn them on.
Know where the first aid kit is. Ideally someone will know how to use it.
Start the dinghy engine. Know where it‟s fuel is kept and the proper mixture.
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If you are getting ready for a bare boat charter, don‟t think that, asking the above questions
you will cause you to appear somehow inept. Quite the opposite. The above questions are
ones that a good boater should ask before taking charge. A safety conscious crew or charter
company will be happy to show you what you should know.
Once you get there and see the ship there will be more questions. Be sure to ask them.
When You Get There
On the Boat
Probably the most difficult part of boat life for most people to adapt to is the limited space. If
you are going to be out for more than a day, be sure that you are going out with people that
you really get along with. Boating is not quite as bad as sharing a toothbrush in a jail cell but
you are going to be very close. What used to be little endearing habits may become the
foundation for justifiable homicide. Then again boating is a chance to really get to know
someone.
Be part of the solution. Be sure that you are doing your best to be good company at all times.
If conditions are making you miserable, they are probably bothering
everyone else too. It‟s OK to let people know (once) that you‟re not
happy about something but, unless you have something constructive
to offer, don‟t continuously discuss a poor situation.
Space is limited. Most boats do not have big empty walk-in closets.
There may not be room to hang all those clothes – perhaps you
shouldn't bring them in the first place but, if you do, be sure to put
them away (stow them) in such a way that movement is easy.
Communications
Cell phones have made communication a lot easier on boats. Be
sure that you have a phone that can roam in the area you want to
travel in. The ultimate phone in terms of coverage is a satellite
phone but they are very expensive to buy and operate. Check with
14
Captain Charlie's
your phone company to insure that your phone service will not be cut off if you suddenly start
to make a lot of expensive calls from foreign locals. You might want to explore getting a
temporary number as well – of course with this option you will not receive calls to your usual
number but that might not be a bad thing.
You can also use some cell phones to connect to the internet but, if you need to access the net,
be sure to test your cell phone to net connection. Also be aware that many forms of Internet
connection are very slow and expensive. Other forms of internet connection including
satellite dishes are available but costly in terms of space and money.
Even with a cell phone, learn to use the VHF radio. The ship‟s radio (VHF for Very High
Frequency) is one of your most important pieces of equipment. With the, VHF, you can patch
into a shore service and make a phone call, make reservations directly with many shore side
restaurants, coordinate with other ships, check on the weather and, if needed, call for help.
It‟s a good idea to leave the radio on channel 16 in case something is announced that you need
to know. If bareboat chartering, ask what channel your charter company monitors and when.
The operation of most VHF radios is rather simple. There are only four controls that you
need to worry about. If there are any other switches, leave them alone. Often these switches
will not be labeled. Have the following shown and explained to you:
• The switch to turn on the unit and adjust speaker volume.
• The transmit button (usually on the mike) is pressed to speak and released to listen.
• Find the switch used to change the channels. Most VHF radios, automatically turn on to
channel 16 (the emergency and connection channel).
• There will be a switch to adjust the gain AKA attenuation or squelch. This is the trickiest
one. If it has been set right, you can leave it alone. With the radio on, adjust the squelch
by turning it to the left (counterclockwise) until the speaker gives a static noise. Then turn
the gain knob in the opposite direction until the static is just “squelched.” If nobody seems
to replying to you, try adjusting the squelch again.
There is one major difference over phones. VHF radios only allow conversations one way at a
time. Thus, a continuously held down transmit button makes everyone‟s communication
impossible. If you are talking (or just holding down the transmit button), EVERYONE ELSE
on that channel must listen to you and can not talk.
Use proper radio protocol. Because the airwaves are limited and conversations are one way
at a time there is a certain protocol for conversations on VHF radios. By courtesy and law,
conversations begin on channel 16 then move to another channel.
If you were calling vessel Ubi Libertas from vessel Spirit, you would first listen for about 10
seconds to see if anyone else was using channel 16 then say “Ubi Libertas, Ubi Libertas, Ubi
Libertas this is Spirit.” You would then repeat the above every few minutes until you got a
reply like “Spirit this Ubi Libertas, switch to channel xx.”
You would reply with “Spirit switching to xx” or say that you would prefer another channel.
Once on channel xx, you would say, “Spirit on xx.” If there is no reply, wait a few moments
and try again. Try a third time before switching back to channel 16 and repeating from the
top. Often long names are shortened. It would be acceptable to say “Ubi, Ubi, Ubi this is
Spirit.”
There are a few more details. Try to remember to say “over” just before releasing your
transmit button (remember – if you don‟t press the button they can‟t hear you, if you don‟t
release the button, you can‟t hear them). When the conversation is done say “out” and
Boating 101
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mention if you are going to continue to monitor some other channel. I.E. “Vessel Spirit
switching to 16.” “Over and out” does not make much sense but you will be forgiven if you
say it. Boaters are not truckers. Avoid the use of CB slang like “That‟s a big 10-4.”
Because it is in such high demand, use channel 16 as little as possible. Most vessels, many
land based institutions and government agencies routinely monitor this channel. Once you
have established contact, one of the parties should suggest another channel (68 is good for
talking to the shore and 72 is good for talking to other ships – other channels have specific
purposes and, unless you are directed to do so, should not be used).
Reporting Emergencies
Emergencies sometimes happen. Never use the word “MAYDAY” unless you really mean
it. Calling mayday on the radio opens you to all sorts of legal and financial obligations (such
as salvage rights). It is not to be used unless you and/or a member of your crew are in
immediate and grave physical danger. Calling Mayday mobilizes a lot of resources. Please
don‟t cry wolf. Running out of fuel or ice, being lost, seasick etc. are not MAYDAY level
emergencies.
If you have a lesser emergency, the official call to use is “Pan Pan.” For some “emergencies”
you will have some idea of who you want to get in touch with such as your charter company
or a specific towing agency. If that is the case, call them with the VHF procedures described
above or on your cell phone.
Requests for minor assistance do not require the use of "Pan Pan." In example, some
anchorages will pick up your trash, deliver food/ice, and such. Arranging this transaction is
not a Pan Pan type discussion.
You can‟t get help unless your rescuer knows where you are. Stay on the radio until your
location is confirmed. Do not leave the radio until the following information is
communicated:
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Your location,
Your problem and special needs,
Number of people aboard,
Description of the boat (name, color and type),
What actions you are taking.
If you happen to tune into an emergency rescue, it is OK and often exciting to LISTEN in.
But, unless you have something substantial to contribute to the rescue effort, DO NOT TALK.
Do not use the radio to tell someone else not to talk. It may keep you more honest to know
that lots of folks are probably listening to everything you say on the VHF.
You can also use cellular phones for many of your communication needs. They have been
very successfully used in rescue operations. You will need to know the proper phone numbers
(be sure to have your charter company‟s emergency phone number). It's a good idea to have
these numbers handy.
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Captain Charlie's
US Coast Guard
The USCG „s major focus of activity appears to be prevention of drug smuggling and not
assisting boaters. Prevention of drug smuggling is worth some small hassles and the Coast
Guard should be considered a welcome sight on the water and a good source of information
when on land.
Despite the many horror tales from persons who have had
extensive searches, the Coast Guard is really out there to help.
Unfortunately, by law, directives and insufficient funding, the
Coast Guard is often very limited in what they can or will do to
help. (They are otherwise practically unlimited in what they can
do in the pursuit of their duties). While on the water, only
request assistance from the Coast Guard if the situation is a
severe emergency. If you request assistance and the situation is
not life threatening, you will be referred to a private service.
Need for a tow is not life threatening.
Should you spot a Coast Guard vessel, do not try to speak with
them on the radio. They will maintain radio silence (I'm told
this is so that smugglers will not be able to figure out where they
are). However, in case they wish to communicate with you, you
should turn your radio on and monitor it.
Should the Coast Guard request to board you, you have two options:
(1) If you, as captain, do not consider sea conditions safe enough for a boarding, you can
request that the Coast Guard follow you to the nearest port;
(2) You can allow them to board you.
Even though Coast Guard presence aboard a vessel very occasionally results in a lengthy and
damaging inspection, I recommend option number two. Unless conditions are really terrible,
number one is often just a delaying tactic and will be perceived as such. People who have
been “put out” are not likely to be feeling kindly towards you when they do perform their legal
search. In fact, they are likely to make special efforts to look for contraband. You really don‟t
want the Coast Guard making special efforts in their search.
My personal experiences with the Coast Guard have all been very positive. My boat has been
officially boarded a number of times and I have unofficially met various members of the Coast
Guard under a variety of circumstances. In all cases, I have been left with the impression that
the members of the Coast Guard were polite persons who were justifiably proud of the
difficult and dangerous work that they do.
The Coast Guard is warranted in their sometimes discourteous behavior. Members of Coast
Guard crews can more than match the many horror tales told by yachtspersons of damaging
Coast Guard activities with tales of their own.
Coast Guard boarding parties are often shot at, assaulted, battered, and insulted; these folks
have good reason to be ready for anything as they board your boat. They don‟t know you or
what to expect from you. Don‟t take their actions as a personal insult. Be polite and
respond quickly to all requests. Insist that your crew do the same. Don‟t allow yourself
to be provoked. Getting angry will only make things worse for you. In preparation for
boarding, have all crewmembers come on deck and be ready to show your personal and ship‟s
papers.
Boating 101
You and the Coast Guard will be happy with each other if:
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• Your boat meets all federal requirements. (Ask for a free Coast Guard Auxiliary courtesy
inspection. See the “Resources” appendix.)
• You always operate your vessel in a safe and legal manner (Read this and other books.
Take boating courses.)
• You let them know right away about any firearms aboard.
• You never allow illegal drugs (in any quantity) on board.
Boat Etiquette
It is a good idea to treat all persons on the boat and in nearby boats as a close friend who may
not want to be bothered. Do not do anything to offend someone. Actually this is a good idea
on shore as well.
Helping Out
Many people find that their experience is improved when they help out. Ask how jobs
should be done. I have a nice scar between my eyes from a “helpful” and nautically wise
friend who did it their way and not mine. Perhaps your way is better but your captain and
crew may not expect it. The unexpected can be dangerous. It is sometimes best just to sit
back and watch the first couple of times.
Just watching is not a sign of laziness. I have extensive boating experience. I grew up on and
around boats and single-handed my sailboat to South America and back though most of the
Caribbean but, when I am on someone else‟s boat, I do not even cleat off or coil a line without
asking first and then having the captain check my work (the first time). I always ask if the
head (bathroom) has particular instructions. Most of them do.
While under way, you are often invited to take the wheel or tiller; it is OK to request to steer
the boat but never expect that the request will be granted. There will be occasions when the
captain will want steering back -- QUICKLY. Even if the transition is abrupt, do not be
insulted. Your captain is responsible for the boat and may be operating with experience that is
not easily or quickly put into words.
Cleaning and putting on the sail covers are jobs that are much
appreciated and need little introduction. Carrying supplies on board
and trash off are tasks that require no special skills other than a strong
back. It is everybody's job to constantly make sure that things will not
go flying down below once the boat tips (heels). Make sure that
your (and other’s) gear is always properly stowed.
Flags
The rules for flags get rather complicated. The following is correct
most of the time. Nobody will be upset if you don't fly a flag at all.
• Fly your flags at anchor when conditions permit.
• The flag of your boat‟s country of origin should be flown from the back (stern).
• A courtesy flag for the country that you are visiting should be flown from the starboard
spreader (right hand side of the boat).
• On a sailboat, burgees (club flags) should be flown from the top of the main masthead. On
a powerboat they are flown from a small staff in the front (bow).
• Private flags are also flown from the starboard side of the vessel.
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Captain Charlie's
• If you wish to fly a flag indicating your personal country of origin (other than the boats), fly
it on the port side of the vessel.
Noise
Sound travels over water incredibly well. Some anchorages are famous for their party
atmospheres while others are well-known for their peace and quiet. Expect noise in the
former and don‟t disturb the peace in the latter. Consult your crew or cruising guide(s) to find
which is which.
Noise can make a heavenly anchorage hell. Some stereos are capable of “killing fish.” If
you have to hear your music loud, don't turn on the deck speakers. Many boat generators fall
into the loud category. Staying up on deck all night partying also falls in the loud category.
It‟s OK and often fun to be loud, but do it in expected areas.
Visiting other boats
Boats are like homes. Do not board another boat without permission unless the boat is in
physical danger. This includes boats on docks. It is OK to walk, swim, or dinghy all around a
boat. You can even try for an invitation aboard by talking to the captain or crew.
When invited to another boat for dinner or drinks, bring something (see parties).
Parties
Lots of people love to party and many people on boats are no exception. If you are going to
have one of those loud all night affairs, most of the rules for house parties apply. Invite the
neighbors long before the party. This will give them a chance to move if they are not in the
mood. Unless things are completely spontaneous, be sure to select a proper anchorage or
marina.
If you are invited over to a party, ask what you might bring. Even if told “nothing” it is
appropriate to bring something. Some food, a bottle of wine or other treat is always welcome.
You will never go wrong bringing ice to all but the largest boats.
Drinking
While a cocktail or two can be great, don’t get too drunk. You can‟t operate a boat when
you can‟t think straight. Even in the best of anchorages, problems happen and you need to be
prepared. Even when sober, it‟s often hard to move around on a boat. Drinking makes it
tougher.
Driving a dinghy drunk can be at least as dangerous as drunk driving in a car (and just as
illegal). Just like a house party, if someone looks incapable of driving their dinghy, don‟t let
them. Be firm. Offer to bring them back to their boat and tow their dinghy.
Watch yourself; if you drink too much, request assistance.
Nudity
Boating is often a back-to-nature experience. Many persons prefer not to wear clothes. In
some anchorages, this is the norm and acceptable. In others, nudity may offend persons on
shore or on the other boats. If you want to go “natural,” it is best to ask your boat companions
first then look around and see what might be acceptable. Some persons think that seeing
nudity on the neighboring boat improves the view. Others feel that it is disgusting. If nudity
is important (either way) to you, be sure to discuss it with your charter agency, the captain and
other crewmembers before choosing your boat and itinerary.
Boating 101
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On all but the largest boats, it makes a lot of sense to take showers on deck and in the nude.
You will be more comfortable and get cleaner if you don‟t try to wash around your suit and
you won‟t get things so wet down below. You don‟t have to be blatant but, while you're at it,
if the anchorage has clean water, why not do a little skinny-dipping too? A good way to
conserve fresh water is to dive in; come back aboard; soap down; dive in again; then take a
fresh water rinse.
Food
The days of rancid potatoes and scurvy are long gone. There is no reason that you can‟t eat
anything that you like. Many crewed yachts take justifiable pride in the tables that they
present. Bare boating is a little different.
Most people don‟t like to spend their vacations in the kitchen. If you‟re the one who is doing
all the cooking, reservations might look pretty good (even on a crewed yacht, it is customary
to take the captain and cook ashore for dinner at least once).
Meal plans are important. You may discover yourself deciding to eat ashore because events
are too fun to leave. If it looks like this is going to happen, INFORM THE COOK! There are
few worse experiences than missing the fun because your slaving over a stove to discover that
everyone has already eaten.
Kitchen Equipment
There is often a barbecue, oven, broiler and/or range available for cooking. However the
ability and space to keep things cool are often severely limited.
Boat cooking can be complex. When using a barbecue, try not to toast the sails or other
equipment with a huge flame. If you have a crewed boat, ask before you try to use any of the
equipment. Because boat-cooking equipment can be finicky and supplies are often carefully
planned, some crews are often very particular about other people cooking.
If you expect to cook (or are bare boating), have the equipment demonstrated. Light the stove
and oven twice to be sure that you know the whole sequence. Pay special attention to how
fuel is turned on and off. Alcohol and other liquid fuel stoves can be very tricky. If you are
using one of these, follow the instructions very carefully and be sure that you know where the
fire extinguisher is and how to use it. You might want to write the instructions down.
Refrigeration and Ice
Even the best boat refrigeration systems are no match for shore refrigeration systems. Boat
refrigeration is an expensive, noisy process that should be kept to a minimum. Plan and act
accordingly. Be very careful about what you place in the cooler and how often you open it.
Keeping ice is an art. Unless you have the capacity to make substantial amounts of ice or are
willing to constantly replenish your supply, you will quickly run out. A case of warm beer
will only be slightly colder after it has consumed bags of ice. Even cold beer will make ice
melt faster. If your ice capacity is small, select foods that will need little refrigeration and use
the ice cubes to cool down your warm drinks. Always bring cold beverages. On some boats
the ice melts into an area called the bilge – if your boat does this, be extra careful not to allow
the ice melt off to become contaminated with food as it will start to smell.
Proper food choice can help reduce the need for cooling. Many foods that are commonly
refrigerated do not have to be. Some cheeses can kept out for weeks and their flavor actually
improves. The harder the cheese the longer it will last. Most fruits and veggies will last
almost as long in the ice box as out.
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Some foods assist with cooling. Frozen chicken helps to keep things cool. It is helpful to
prepare meals ahead of time (in your nice big kitchen) then freeze them in such a way that
getting submerged will not destroy the meal. A frozen jug of water is always welcome. It
keeps things cool for a long time then becomes cold water (leave room in the jug for water to
expand when you freeze it). Try to buy soft drinks and beer that are already cold.
Provisioning & Eating Aboard
Boats are built to be enjoyed and food should be part of the joy. There are few things more
enjoyable than a good meal up in the cockpit. With the anchor firmly set, equipment stowed
and a good sunset, the world is perfect.
Provisioning requires some special attention. While not really a problem, the biggest mistake
is usually overstocking. Under most
circumstances, if needed, there will be plenty of
places to reprovision. You will probably run into
a number of restaurants that you will want to
visit. Try not to over-exceed the capacity of your
ice box. I‟ve seen many day trips that had
supplies good for a week.
Selecting proper food and drink for a boat trip
can be an art. Your choices will depend on local
selection, your personal preferences and the
storage capacity of your boat. Storage capacity will be divided between refrigerated and nonrefrigerated areas. While I like to cook and routinely bring plenty of supplies to do a meal
from scratch, with a group aboard, snack foods and sandwich fixings seem to work best.
Personal favorites are barbecued chicken and/or a roast (for sandwiches).
Most meals prepared ashore travel well. Life is easy when you only have to warm a
prepared meal. In fact, if you are invited to go boating, bringing prepared food will make you
all the more welcome. Plastic containers are generally preferred over breakable glass. Ask
your captain for details and assistance in coordinating the meal plan.
While boats often have substantial quantities of preserved food aboard, fresh food is best for
daily consumption. If you are a guest, buying fresh food allows you to share expenses, and
preserves dried and canned foods for emergencies. Alcohol can be one of the most expensive
commodities to purchase; so, for the purpose of provisioning, consider alcohol to be
something that needs to be bought fresh. Of course, some boat supplies, such as spices and
other “essential ingredients” will be used just as some of the things you buy will be left for the
next visitors or your host. Try to consume food that will or is about to spoil first.
Buy food where natives buy their food. My shopping trips are great adventures. When
shopping in local markets, be prepared to provide your own bag(s). Canvas tote bags (the
kind sold at most marine outlets to carry ice are perfect) or a backpack are great. You might
consider continuing to use your boat bag at home – save a tree! If bargaining in an open-air
market is not your idea of fun, you can pursue other interests (such as boat drinks in the
hammock) while others shop with your donation.
Local Foods & Fishing
My favorite food is fish that I catch myself, and sometimes I actually do catch fish. Catching
a large fish is a good excuse to throw a potluck for the local boatie neighbors but not
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something to plan on. If I spent the money I‟ve spent on fishing gear to catch fish on fish that
someone else caught, I would have more fish. It‟s still fun to try.
Simply dragging a line with a lure is often enough to catch fish. Use a heavy test line and
rig it in such a way that you can tell if you have caught anything. Fish seem to have a favorite
color to hit upon. Unfortunately the favorite color changes. Ask around about what type of
lure/bait is most effective.
Remember that, if you are towing fishing lines, the hooks will really hurt if you fall (or jump)
off the boat and catch a hook. If you fall in the water with fishing lines dragging, swim away
from the boat! If you see someone fall in, be prepared to cut the fishing line.
If you do get caught by a hook, bring the barb all the way through and cut it off. (Ouch!) Be
sure to bring a tool capable of doing this.
If you do manage to catch that huge fish, a shot of rum (or other strong alcohol) in the gills
will kill it almost instantly (this is cause for thought for those of us that like to drink the stuff).
My next favorite is to eat what the natives eat. You can often find an interesting local
cookbook, or even more fun, get the person at the market to tell you how to cook your
purchase.
If you are going to eat the local foods, be prepared for an experience. American cuisine is not
universal. If you can‟t have an open mind, at least don‟t be insulting. Remember that locals
are proud of and enjoy the food that they are willing to share. While you might not have the
stomach for testicles, raw oysters, pig‟s feet, tripe, fish heads, etc., the natives may consider
them a delicacy and should not be insulted for sharing something they consider special with a
new found friend.
Keeping Things Clean
The best plan is to keep things clean as you go. Avoid clutter.
Most boat owners pride themselves on the condition of their boats. You should help to
keep the boat spotless. A clean boat is also safer since there are fewer things to trip over. The
decks are easy to clean. Throw a couple of buckets of water on them and, with maybe a little
scrubbing, they look good as new. Other clean up jobs require a little more effort. Many boat
owners are very particular about what kind of brushes and cleansers are used. Ask your
captain or charter company how they want things cleaned.
The best plan is to anticipate and avoid messy problems. Don‟t use oily lotions. Really
messy foods that like to get blown around should stay on shore. Potato chips fall in the messy
category. As a boat owner, I hate cheese balls with passion. Many fruits also fall in the messy
category. It is a tough job to clean up a fruit that rolled around the cabin. I keep messy fruits
in a bowl on deck. Of course both chips and frisky fruit taste great on that beach picnic! It's
also important to keep cooked foods covered. If a little red wine spills, clean it up before it
stains.
DO NOT GET SAND ON TO THE BOAT! Sand is a lot of fun on the beach and that is
where it should stay. Make sure that your towels, clothes/swimsuit, feet and shoes are free of
sand before you come aboard. Sand is a royal pain to clean up. It's much easier to get rid of
sand before you get to the boat.
The process of keeping sand off the boat is relatively easy. Just dip your feet briefly in the
water before you enter or leave the dinghy. Sandy shoes should be removed before you walk
around deck. If you‟ve been having fun lying around on the beach, you have sand in your
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swimsuit. Swimsuits are best removed and shaken in the water (if you remove your swimsuit
on deck, wash it in the water). You can remove your swimsuit on deck and use a towel to
preserve modesty in crowded areas. Even better is to remove your suit in the water. Don‟t
remove your sandy or wet swimsuit below deck. Again, if you wore your suit on the beach,
it‟s sandy.
Even vigorous shaking out of towels while still on the beach leaves some sand in your towel.
But it‟s the best you can do. Keep beach towels in a separate bag of beach stuff and don’t
use them on the boat (particularly not below decks).
Do not track water down below. If your wet and want something from below deck, ask
somebody dry to get it for you. The cabin can take a long time to dry. Do not get salt water
on the cushions. Flopping down on those dry cushions may look like a good way to dry off
but salt water never dries. For the rest of your stay and until the foam is replaced, the boat
will have wet cushions.
Fresh Water
Fresh water is very limited. Use it sparingly. It is often a big job to get more. Be very
careful as you clean dishes (and yourself). With very limited water, you could rinse and wash
dishes in salt water then use a very light fresh rinse to remove the salt. DO NOT LEAVE
THE FRESHWATER TAP RUNNING WHEN YOU DO THE DISHES!
Trash
If you need one rule for this, don‟t throw anything over. Never, Never, NEVER THROW
PLASTIC OFF A BOAT! Plastic floats in the ocean forever. It kills all sorts of marine life
and looks... well it looks like garbage. Nobody likes to look at garbage. Facilities for
disposing of garbage will vary and you should discuss disposal with your crew and/or refer to
your cruising guide(s).
Smoking
Cigarettes are a controversial issue. It‟s best to check with your captain before you smoke (it
is polite to ask the rest of the crew too). If you do smoke, consider the following:
• If they allow smoking at all, most captains prefer that smoking be done on deck and not
down below.
• Be careful to keep your cigarettes dry. One wave and you‟ve got tobacco soup.
• Be very careful to avoid getting ashes on the boat and in peoples eyes. Smoke so that
smoke and ashes are blown off and away from the boat. Ask the captain where to sit.
• Don‟t throw cigarette butts in the water (they float for a long time and kill fish). Put them
in a bottle or can.
• Don‟t even think of bringing or smoking something that is not legal.
The Head (Toilet)
I'm not much of one to insist upon nautical vocabulary but a head is a head and not a toilet.
Heads are often finicky: easy to plug and messy to fix. A blocked head can take a lot of fun
out of your trip.
Do not put anything into the head unless it is toilet paper or you have eaten it first. Some
captains don't even allow toilet paper. Do NOT use the head to get rid of tampons, feminine
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napkins, cigarette buts, paper towels, napkins etc. Do not let children use it alone. There will
often be written instructions on how to use the head, follow them.
Some of the following will make more sense when you are looking at the head.
Ask your captain or charter agency to show you how to use the head. Many heads have their
own special operating quirks. Some heads are placed below the water line and need to have a
valve closed after use or they will flood the boat. You really do not want a bunch of water
backing up from the head exhaust line.
The head is “flushed” by pumping either by hand or with a pump. Pump about six times after
the bowl is clear of wastes to insure that the lines are clear. Sometimes the bowl will not
empty completely or will begin to back up. When this happens, turn the knob (or lever) on the
pump from flush to dry. Empty the bowl then switch back to flush. Repeat until things flow
properly.
Heads often have problems. Be assured that whoever is in charge would rather hear about a
problem right away than discover things after they have gotten worse. If things aren't working
properly, call someone. It's not a bad idea to give the head a casual pump or two to make sure
it is working before you use it.
There will often be a shower in the head area. As noted previously, it makes a lot more sense
to shower on deck. If you do use the below deck shower, you will often need to turn on an
additional switch to suck out the water on the floor. Don‟t forget to cover or remove toilet
paper, towels and other items that you don‟t want soapy water on. Turn the switch off when
you are done and the water drained.
It can be difficult for men to aim accurately while the boat is underway. To avoid a messy
bathroom “When at sea, sit to pee.” Provided that no one minds (or notices), men often pee
off the side. Do not do this in open ocean – it is a rarely known fact that falling off a boat
while peeing is the most common cause of boat fatalities. It should be obvious but, if you do
pee off the side, don‟t pee into the wind.
General Boat Handling
What You Have to Know
I highly recommend that you review the checklist
under the safety section but the following is
critical.
Bow
Port
Forward
Starboard
At first it may seem a little silly to give everything
a different name on boats but, if you stop and
think about it, it makes sense.
Stern
Aft
Orientation is critical. Boats move through the
water in any direction and people may be moving
in any direction on the boat. Some terminology that will not confuse people is required. The
front of the boat is called the bow; if you are moving towards the front you are going forward.
The back of the boat is called the stern; if you are moving towards the stern you are going aft.
Facing forward, the right hand side of the boat is starboard and the left is port.
• Know where you can and can’t sit or stand. You particularly want to avoid the boom,
other objects that may move, and getting in the way of boat operations. To find the danger
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Captain Charlie's
spots, ask and look. Avoid the kitchen hall effect - ever notice how, at many parties, people
end up standing in such a way as to block all traffic?
• Never stand or sit on a
Mast
line. Even if it is loose it
Parts of the Boat
might be put into use.
Watch for lines that will
shift position.
• NEVER, never allow any
part of your body to be
placed in a coil of line!
That‟s how those crusty old
salts earned their peg legs.
• Put equipment that is not
Main Sail
Jib Sail
immediately in use away.
This includes winch
Boom
handles and spare lines.
Stern
Helm
Bow
Coil messy lines.
Water Line
• Keep everyone informed.
Crew and passengers need
to know about potentially
Rudder
Keel
dangerous situations such
as rogue (unexpected) big
wave (as in from a ferry
wake) and when the boom is coming across.
• Agree upon hand signals for common activities. It is often difficult to speak above the
flapping of sails and the roar of the engine. You should at least agree upon anchoring
signals. See anchoring.
The diagram shows the names of some of the most important sailboat parts.
Moving Around
Moving around on a boat can be tricky. Particularly if the boat is moving (underway), try to
do the following:
• Always have one hand gripping something (“One hand for you, one for the boat”).
• On sailboats, whenever possible stay to the windward or high side. This will improve
the performance of the boat and, should you fall, you have a better chance of catching
something or someone.
• Walk in a boxer‟s crouch.
• If thing‟s are rough (or in open water) use a harness and, when on deck, keep it clipped to
the boat. This is extremely important at night when you are alone on the deck.
Buoys
A buoy is an anchored floating object. They are generally used as aids to navigation or to
mark a mooring, race course, or fish trap.
When used as an aid to navigation, buoys should have a distinctive shape, color and
(occasionally) lights and/or sounds. Usually “nun” buoys are red with a conical top and “can”
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buoys are green or black and flat on the top. Other navigation buoys may be in other shapes
and colors. Your charts and guides will tell you what types of buoys you should look for. The
general rule is that, as you enter a harbor or anchorage, red buoys should be kept to your right
(starboard) and green buoys should be kept to your left (port). This is often remembered as
“Red right returning.”
Don’t panic if you can’t find the buoys on your charts. In the United States great effort is
made to maintain buoys of the proper color and location. Some other nations are unable to be
so conscientious. If you can’t find buoys that you expect, do the following:
• Check your charts to make sure that you are where you think you are. Look for
significant landmarks such as mountains and church steeples.
• Use you depth sounder.
• If you have one, consult your GPS. Get important locations from locals or charts.
• Use binoculars to look for the buoys and other hazards.
• Slow down and move carefully. Check your charts again for hazards.
• Even when you can see buoys, it never hurts to establish a lookout on the bow to look for
hazards.
Racing buoys deserve special mention. They will usually be large, inflated and bright orange.
Never cross a race course. At the very least you may disrupt a race. Racers are doing their
best to shave seconds off the time in which they complete a course. They would rather not hit
your boat but do not mind getting dangerously close. Believe me, they will know if they are
in the “right” and would rather intimidate you than change their course. Racers hit each other
on a regular basis. If you see a large group of sailboats headed your way, get out of their way.
Fishing buoys are hazards to navigation. You should keep a constant watch for these little
buggers. They are often small and hard to see. It does not hurt to assign a bow watch to look
for buoys in waters where they might be expected. Have the watch point to any buoys that are
near the boat‟s course. You can expect to see fish buoys in any waters that are less than 150
feet deep. They are often found much deeper. Fish buoys can be any color; I have even seen
clear plastic soda bottles used!
The small size of fishing buoys does not prevent the lines that are attached to them from
wrapping around your prop (fouling your prop and rudder) and grabbing your fishing lines. If
your fishing line catches a fish buoy‟s line, you will be lucky if you just lose the line and lure.
If the fish buoy line fouls your prop, it will usually stop your engine. If you are lucky, you
will just have to dive over with a sharp knife, a mask and very good lungs. For some reason,
props seem to foul more often in really rough night seas. Often fouling a prop causes damage
to the shaft or engine before things shut down. Avoid the problem before it happens.
How Boats Move
Boats are propelled through by water in three main forces: Human, Motor and Sail. It is
possible for a boat to use all three but if you don't have at least one, you don't have a boat.
Human force is usually used to row or scull and it is not likely that a boat much larger than
thirty feet will use the motive force as a reliable option.
There are two main types of motors on boats: gas and diesel. Gas provides a lot more power
to the pound, is more expensive and, since gas is very flammable, more dangerous. Diesel is
more reliable and safer. Both types of engines usually translate their force into motive power
by turning a propeller. Propellers are often called props or screws. Screw is a very
appropriate term as the way that the propeller moves the boat is to literally screw into the
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Captain Charlie's
water. This forces the water in one direction and the boat in another. There is huge science in
knowing what size and shape prop to use but fortunately we don't have to worry about that.
Keep in mind a few things about props. They are often the lowest part of the boat. They are
often the most delicate part of the boat and can be easily damaged. Because they spin, props
can easily get tangled up in lines that can bring a boat to a complete standstill. The most
important thing to remember about props is they are a blade spinning below your boat. They
can easily kill or wound so be very careful to avoid swimmers. Particularly with small boats, I
like to actually turn the engine off when a swimmer is exiting or entering a boat. Outboard
props are at least as dangerous as those on large vessels.
Jets are another popular type of boat propulsion. In this case, the boat engine drives a
powerful pump that sucks water in then spits it out in a jet. Jets tend to be more maneuverable
and much safer than props. They are not quite as efficient and you need to be careful that the
water intake does not get clogged.
When the wind is directly moving in the direction that you want to go, it is pushing. When
the wind is coming from other directions, things get more complicated. A sailboat moves
through the water in much the same way that a watermelon seed shoots forward when
squeezed between two fingers. The wind is the force on one side and the water provides the
opposite force. Modern sail shapes create a wing shape where the wind must move across a
greater area on one side of the sail than the other allowing the boat to travel close to the
direction that the wind is coming from. The wing shape creates a slight a vacuum that pulls
the boat. Thus you might say that the wind doesn't blow it sucks. More on this later.
Steering
Unlike cars, boats steer from the rear (stern). This means that, when the wheel is turned, the
stern moves first while the front (bow) pivots around a point near the center or rear. Cars are
the opposite, they turn from the front and the rest of the car follows. Keep this difference in
mind and the boat‟s response will make a lot more sense.
When a car stops it stays stopped; boats are always moving. Boats don‟t have brakes to stop.
To stop a combination of coasting, rearranging the sails, steering into the wind, and putting
the engine in reverse is used. Most boats don‟t steer well or at all in reverse or even when
they are moving slowly.
Particularly in confined areas there are conflicting desires when maneuvering a boat. The
conflict is that, to avoid damage, you want to move as slow as possible near docks,
anchorages or buoys but the slower the boat the more difficult it is to steer.
The trick is to be pointing in the right direction when you begin to slow. Choosing the right
direction can be difficult; wind, waves and current affect the direction that you are traveling.
It makes sense to practice approaches on a buoy far away from other obstructions a few times
before trying a dock. Be prepared to abort and try again. Remember that lines underwater can
catch on (foul) the boat -- particularly the propeller.
Remember you cannot steer a boat that is barely moving. Also you cannot dock, raft up, or
anchor a boat that is moving fast. Technically, any attempt to so is called a crash.
If your steers with a tiller, it will steer the opposite way of what you expect. You‟ll soon get
the hang of it but remember, “Tiller towards Trouble.” (This means that, unless the object is
straight ahead or behind, point the tiller at whatever you want to avoid).
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The best way to get comfortable with steering is to find some open water and practice. You
might try approaching fish traps or buoys (never lift a fish trap or use a mooring that is not
yours). As noted above, be careful around buoys, traps and anchor lines as they may get
caught in your propeller (foul the prop) and stop the boat. If nothing else is present, practice
steering by throwing a boat cushion off the side and recovering it. This is good man
overboard practice and is recommended for everyone. The fewer persons aboard, the more
critical it is that each practice steering.
It is very common to see signs that read "Leave no Wake." This means that you should move
the boat dead slow so that it doesn't make waves. Reasons for these signs vary but they are all
good. Be sure to follow this instruction.
Dinghies
Dinghies are an essential part of boating. There are two basic types of dinghies. Hard
dinghies can be a little tipsy. They are excellent for rowing but can be used with an engine.
Inflatable (I like to call them deflateable) dinghies are more stable but can loose their air and
are very difficult to row. If your engine does not work, don‟t try to row one of these dinghies
against the wind or very far.
There are a few things you should consider when entering a dinghy.
• Your first and most important concern is proper trim. In this case, trim means to properly
distribute weight in the dingy. There should be a little extra weight in the back and both
sides should have equal loading.
• Don‟t try to stand when the dinghy is moving. Don‟t stand for long when entering or
exiting.
• At no time should everyone be standing.
• Gear should be last in and first out.
• If you see water in the dingy, look for the scoop (bailer), and use the scoop to remove it.
• While moving, look out for other dinghies, swimmers, anchor and mooring lines etc.
Remember that the propeller is about a foot below the surface and is easily damaged by
rocks. That spinning blade will also do a lot of damage to a person.
Know how to start the engine or learn to row. Dinghy engines (outboards) are a lot like lawn
mower engines. Generally, to start an outboard, make sure that the engine is not in gear, turn
the throttle up and give a sharp pull on the starter cord. Particularly when the engine is cold or
old the choke may be needed to start the engine; once the engine is running turn the choke off.
There will be a lever to put the engine in forward and reverse. Often the lever will lock in
neutral -- look for a release. If you don‟t understand other controls, don‟t use them.
Like a car, dinghies are dangerous. Most boating fatalities involve small boats. Don‟t go full
speed through anchorages; you might not see a swimmer or anchor line. At night, display a
light and keep a very careful watch for other boats and folks that have decided to take a
midnight swim. By law there should be a life preserver for everyone aboard. Non-swimmers
should wear a preserver. Don‟t drive drunk.
Be careful when tying dinghies to docks. Don‟t park in such a way that you make a spot
unusable for large vessels. Ferries have been known to come in to the dock anyway; crunch
goes the dinghy. In some areas, thefts are common. In other areas and at many events people
will borrow dinghies (often because someone has borrowed theirs). It is never proper to
borrow a dinghy without permission -- actually it is grand theft. As a rule it‟s best to always
lock dinghies.
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Captain Charlie's
Unfortunately, some children have learned that they can hit up people for a buck or two just to
“watch” their dinghies. Owners that do not pay sometimes have problems. If you feel like
you are a victim of junior league extortion switch docks or inform the establishment in charge
of the dock. (Also see the section on “Off the Boat.”)
Dinghies are an attractive swim and dive platform. If you don‟t want yours sandy and full of
salt water, park it where kids won‟t play with it.
There are lots of opinions as to how a dinghy should be carried while the boat is moving
(under way). The best way is probably out of the water. If possible, the dinghy is stowed out
of the water either on miniature crane-like arms called davits or on deck.
Towing is easier but slows the boat down. If you decide to tow, look back occasionally to
make sure the dinghy is still there. Some water will get in the dingy; be sure that there is
nothing inside the dingy (including oars!) that might get washed out. Play with the dinghy
line (painter) until there seems to be the least drag. The best spot is usually with the dinghy
“surfing” on the waves created by your hull (wake). This will make more sense when you try
it. When towing, it is prudent to take the engine off and store it on the deck of your larger
boat so that it can‟t work it‟s way free and fall into the water. At the very least, when towing,
lock the engine in the tow position. This takes the back of the engine out of the water and
reduces drag.
Always make sure that the dinghy is correctly tied (well secured). Ask your captain what
knots to use. Dinghies and their outboards are expensive and required to get to shore. Don‟t
lose one.
Water Skiing & Jet Skis
With proper respect these sports can be a lot of fun; they can also be very dangerous. Most
boaters have a pet peeve against persons who insist upon dodging close to boats or close to the
beach with swimmers in the water. These actions are very risky, disturbing to others and
often against the law. Don‟t.
Person Overboard
While it is extremely rare for a person to accidentally fall off a boat, people who can‟t swim
and all children should be strongly encouraged to wear a life vest. This encouragement should
be increased on smaller boats, as you get further from shore and as sea conditions get worse.
Life vests should be required at night. Modern life vests can be very comfortable. Two very
good additions to a life vest are a whistle (any cheap one attached by a line to the vest will do)
and, at night, a small waterproof flashlight. Make sure the flashlight is really waterproof.
Soon after starting a trip, it is a very good idea to practice a person overboard drill. As
always, procedures should be discussed with everyone before attempting the maneuver. Don‟t
use a person; use a floating cushion. I know captains that carry a few coconuts for overboard
practice. They are much more realistic and challenging than cushions.
Person overboard drills increase confidence and make everyone aboard feel a bit safer. The
maneuver should also underscore the fact that no one wants to fall off a moving boat. Practice
should include someone other than the captain steering. If things are a little boring, you might
want to repeat the drill as a surprise.
If there is someone aboard who can‟t swim, such as a small child, there should be designated
“overboard buddy” who will join them in the water. Persons who can‟t swim should always
wear a life preserver when the boat is moving. There are many circumstances when it is wise
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(or even required by law) for all persons to wear a life preserver. It is the overboard buddies
job to watch their “ward.” All additional persons in the water must wear a life preserver.
Person Overboard Drill
• At least one person should do nothing but watch and point towards the person
(object) in the water. This is very important because in even medium seas it can be very
easy to lose sight of the person (object). The pointer/watcher should keep one arm
extended and pointing towards the person.
• If there is time, throw the person overboard a floating cushion or life ring to use while the
boat is maneuvering to return. Throw it up wind of the person and close but don‟t hit the
person.
• If sailing, the sails should be dropped or reduced so as to give greater boat control.
• To give better control, the person (cushion) should be approached so that the boat is
moving directly into the wind and waves (wind and waves are almost always from the same
direction). If the wind and waves are from different directions, head into the one that is
strongest.
• Bring the boat carefully along side the person, the boat should be practically standing still
when near the person. Don‟t get so close that you hit the person. Let them swim a little.
When the person gets close, put the engine in neutral or stop it (remember that there is a
dangerous propeller spinning down there).
• Tossing a line and pulling the person to the boat can help.
• Place the ladder at the last moment (ladders placed to early may get ripped off the moving
boat by water). If your boat is boarded from the rear (stern), allow the boat to slowly drift
forward until the person can get to the stern.
• Unless the person in the water urgently requires assistance, no one else should join them
(use a boat hook to recover cushions and such). Additional persons in the water almost
always add to the problem. If the parents and captain agree that an additional person in the
water will improve safety, an exception should be made for small children. Choose the
person who will join the child in the water (should they fall off) before you leave the dock.
The person who will join the child in the water must wear a life preserver.
• In some cases it may make more sense to use the boat‟s dinghy for the recovery. Don‟t try
this unless you have tried the above method first. In open water, the less people off the
boat the better.
Knots & Lines
On a boat, there are no ropes. Only lines. Some people are very particular about this
distinction. I prefer being with people who aren‟t so fussy. Some lines have special names:
•
•
•
•
A line used to tie or pull a dinghy is a painter.
A line that raises a sail is a halyard.
A line that adjusts a sail is a sheet.
A line attached to an anchor is a rode.
Most captains will have no problems if you just call everything a line.
By the way, there is some controversy to this rope vs. line rule as a few salty dogs will tell you
that the small string used for the ship‟s bell should be called a rope (there are other even more
strange exceptions). I know that this all seems silly but sailors got to have something to argue
about over all that rum.
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Captain Charlie's
Consider wearing gloves when working with lines.
Never let any part of your body get surrounded by a line. You can never tell when a line
might suddenly get a large stress. If you have a coil wrapped around you, you might be lucky
if this worst that happens is you go for an unplanned swim. Remember all those movies with
peg-leg sailors? You can bet that most lost their legs to coils of lines.
When winching in a line, put at least two coils around the winch. Make sure that the winch
will turn the right way (they only turn clockwise) to tighten your line. You might want to
practice a few times with a slack line. Additional coils make it easier to take up the slack as
you winch but the more coils you have the more likely you are to get the line fouled. If the
line is badly fouled, make a wrap in the opposite direction of the coil and use another winch to
free it. Having another person pull the free line as you crank makes things a lot easier (this
process is called tailing).
Lines should never be left in loose messy coils on deck. As soon as you have cleated off
your line coil it up and make it neat. It may look simple (and it is once you get the hang of it),
but have you captain show you how to coil the line. Never do the old wrap around hand and
elbow method as it tends to leave lines unusable and could be dangerous if the line is suddenly
pulled while you are using it.
Winch handles are precious. If you (or your child) drop a handle overboard, the captain may
have you walk the plank after it.
There are probably hundreds of knots that have been used in sailing. Fortunately modern
boats only require three or four. Knowing these knots will not make you a salty dog but the
will allow you to deal effectively with most boating situations. Have your captain show you
or get a book on knots so that you can tie the following quickly and without thought:
• Bowlines are a bit tricky to learn but are often used. Use a bowline when you need a loop
that won‟t get smaller and can be untied easily even after stress. You can pass the line back
through a bowline for an effective slip knot. Bowlines are used on dock pilings, tying the
dinghy to a life line support (stanchion), and attaching lines to sails. Most boaters agree
that, if they were stuck on a deserted island with only one knot, they would take a bowline.
• Half hitches are easy to learn and used to quickly attach items that will not get to much
strain. If you expect strain, use a bowline. Half hitches are used to attaching fenders to
lifeline and tying up a sail so that it won‟t flap.
• While perhaps not technically a knot, you should know how to cleat off a line. Wrap the
line fully once around the cleat, then loop it over the back horn and make a half hitch
around the forward horn. As soon as a line has been cleated, coil up the excess line.
Secure the coil. If you look closely, you will see that cleating is really two half hitches.
Never, ever allow your fingers to get between the line and the cleat.
• A figure eight knot should be tightly tied at each loose end of a line so that it can not pull
though pulleys and such.
Anchoring, Docking, & Rafting Up
These tasks are arguably the toughest and most complex part of boating, but, if approached
with proper preparation, they can be easy and very satisfying. There are a few rules that
should always be followed for any of these jobs.
• When possible approach into the wind.
• Have all lines and/or fenders placed. Keep a spare fender in reserve. Put away any loose
clutter so you can move around easily.
•
•
•
•
Boating 101
31
Do not allow any part of your body to get between the boat and anything else solid.
Dangle the spare fender instead of body parts between the boat and a hard place instead.
Keep lines and deck neat. Clutter is dangerous! Watch that windlass!
Do not allow coils or loops of line to get around any part of your body! This includes
dock and anchor lines.
Be prepared to abort and try again.
Anchoring
The basic goal in anchoring is to get a relatively small piece of metal to stick well enough to
the bottom to hold a much larger boat. At the same time you want to insure that your boat is
not going to swing into other boats, docks, reefs, rocks or the shore. It is also important to
consider what that anchor and chain are doing to the fragile ecology of the ocean floor.
Finally you want to be sure the spot you have selected will be comfortable. Whew!
There is often competition for the best anchorage spots. Plan your trip so as to arrive at
your selected spot by 2 or 3 PM. This leaves plenty of daylight to see by and a chance to get
Single Anchor
Two Anchors
Mediterranean Moor
the best spot. It can be fun to be comfortably sitting at anchor, drinking a cocktail and giving
advice as others attempt to duplicate your accomplishment. If it looks like someone is having
real trouble, you might motor over in your dinghy and offer to help place a line. Be prepared
for your dinghy to get a little dirty.
While it usually is safe, don’t assume that an open space surrounded by boats is safe.
Sometimes a big open space is open because it has hidden dangers. Check your charts. Go
slowly; look carefully. Will you be obstructing traffic? Are there rocks? What will happen if
the wind changes? Who will you be anchoring next to?
Do not anchor near boats that are not well maintained. Avoid anchoring behind boats with the
tri-colored French flag (the French are excellent sailors but many seem to have trouble with
the stopping part).
There is no substitution for local knowledge. When possible get more than one guide book on
the areas you plan to visit and compare what they have to say. A local guide who really
knows what he/she is talking about is a real asset but get the books anyway. You might have
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Captain Charlie's
other ideas about where you want to go and see. Some local “guides” (particularly children)
are not as knowledgeable as they claim.
Anchoring Checklist
• Use proper anchoring gear.
• Select an anchorage with good holding.
• Work out some hand signals to communicate between the persons at the bow and wheel.
• Select a spot that will not cause you to interfere with others.
• Be sure to give enough scope.
• Use the same number of anchor lines as the boats around you.
• Don‟t drop anchor and chain rapidly so that it ends up in a pile on the bottom.
• Let wind and current gently move the boat and, once there is enough scope, set the anchor
by applying increasing tension to the line.
Your biggest concern is the size and type of the anchor (hook) and chain/line (rope) that you
are using. Choosing the proper gear is a very complicated discussion that is hotly debated
whenever boaters get together. Trust what you have been told to use (but since most boats can
and should have more than one anchor, ask which you are supposed to use).
Your next consideration is selecting a good anchorage. A good anchorage will provide a good
holding ocean floor. Even the best of anchors, used properly, will not work if the bottom has
poor “holding.” Sand is best, followed by mud, then grass and finally rocks.
When selecting an anchorage, you will probably also be concerned about what there is to see
and do on shore...
Once you have selected an anchorage you must choose your spot in it. Look for a spot where
there appears to be enough room for your boat to swing.
Before you anchor, it is best to work out some hand signals. Particularly with an engine on,
communication can be difficult across the length of a boat. Generally the person in the bow
has a better view of what‟s going on. Some suggested and intuitive hand signals are:
• Point to where you want to go.
• Thumb up for anchor coming up.
• Thumb down for anchor down.
• Both thumbs up for anchor free of the bottom.
• Both thumbs down for anchor caught on the bottom (anchor set).
• Palm up and hand going up and down for more boat speed (this command should be
seldom used).
• Palm down and hand going up and down for less boat speed.
• Both palms down and hands going up and down for engine neutral.
Make sure that there is a good spot for you in the anchorage. It‟s fun to be close to (or away
from) the “action” but room and holding are your first concerns. Consider that your boat is
likely to swing in all directions (as will the rest of the boats). It is no fun to have to move your
boat in the middle of the night because the wind changed.
In clear tropical waters, you can usually see the difference in water color caused by the white
sand shining up in patches among rocks, sea grass or coral. Try to put your anchor(s) in these
patches. Many guides will also inform you as to where in the anchorage the best holding is.
Always use your discretion.
Boating 101
33
Never anchor on a reef. In about a minute
your anchor and chain can destroy what it
took nature thousands of years to create.
Nobody likes to look at a reef that has had
Water Line
so many anchors dropped on it that looks
Draft
Depth
like it was the center of a war zone. Also
Bottom
sharp coral can cut your lines. It is no fun to
watch your boat go drifting away as you have lunch on shore or to wake up pounding against
rocks. Trust me. Besides, most governments provide for substantial fines to people who are
caught destroying a reef (for whatever reason).
Anchor Scope
One good method of anchoring is to “drop your anchor in another boat‟s dinghy.” This should
not be taken literally. Instead, find a boat with clear space behind it, pull up no closer than 20
feet behind, then drop your anchor. Your anchor may drag a bit before it settles in. Make sure
that you will have room to do so.
When you drop your anchor you must be sure to let out enough line (scope). Ideally all force
should be pulling the anchor parallel to the bottom like a plow. There should be no force
pulling the anchor up. The more line you let out the more the anchor is pulled correctly.
The proper ratio is at least five times the length of the height of the deck to the bottom but you
can get sometimes get away with less if you are using some or all chain and the conditions are
gentle. Don‟t use the water depth when figuring scope (to figure this distance from deck to
bottom, use your depth meter and add the height from the waterline to the deck of the boat).
Under storm conditions, a seven to one ratio and extra anchors is more appropriate. Think
about it. Your anchor can‟t hold if the boat is pulling it up!
Don’t let any part of your body get caught between coils of anchor line or chain.
The following graphic shows how boats swing differently depending on factors such as how
many anchors they have set and how much scope they have let out. Note that where the
circles cross there is potential for a bump!
As a rule, put out the same number of anchors and
use the same scope that the boats around you are
using. The number of anchors and length of line(s)
that you put out depends on the weather, currents,
other boats and the holding.. The number of anchors
and the length of anchor line are the major factors in
how boats move as the wind and current change.
The other big factors are the size and windage (how
much wind the boat catches) of the boat. Try to
duplicate what others in the anchorage are doing so
that all boats will move the same way. You will
have to the estimate scope of other boats by looking
at the angle that their anchor lines make with the
water. On a calm day or when a person is using all
chain, it is almost impossible to figure out how
much “line” they have out.
Some boaters like to try to set their anchors by
letting out a bit of extra line then gunning the boat in reverse. This is not a good idea. Instead
gently lay out the anchor until the anchor is just touching the bottom; then, as the boat
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Captain Charlie's
naturally drifts back, slowly release line; after you have about 2:1 scope, begin to put a little
tension on the line; as you approach 5:1 scope, you can increase the tension. Remember:
never let any part of your body be surrounded by a coil of line. If you must test the anchor
with the engine, give it 20 minutes or so to dig in first. In warm and clear waters a better way
to test the anchor is to put on a dive mask and go look at it. It should be “biting” into the
bottom. If you have the lungs for it, you might dive down and place the anchor correctly.
Bringing the anchor up requires some planning and coordination. Take your time.
• Don’t let any part of your body get caught in coils of anchor line or chain.
• Make sure that the boat is ready for open water. Are things secured so that they will not go
flying down below? Do you have all your gear ready?
• Review your hand signals.
• Move the boat slowly forward so as to take tension of the line. Drop back into neutral as
soon as tension is off. Have the person raising the anchor signal which direction the boat
should be going.
• Once the anchor is free, the boat will begin to drift. Signal the captain as soon as the
anchor is free of the bottom.
• Make sure that the anchor is properly put away (secured) so that it will not come loose as
the boat moves.
Docking
Docking is complex and should not be attempted unless you are very comfortable with the
boat and the local conditions. Local conditions include the amount of space on the dock, wind
velocity, wind direction and waves. The docking procedure involves bringing the boat almost
to a standstill very close to the dock. Before you make your final approach have:
• Everyone’s job defined;
• Everyone in place;
• Fenders out on the appropriate side and height of the vessel (fenders are at the correct
height when they will be between the boat and the dock – check again!);
• Dock lines ready (dock
Wind Direction
lines should not foul or rub
against anything especially
the guard rail and life lines
– think about what will
happen when they get
tight).
DON’T GET ANY PART
OF YOUR BODY
BETWEEN THE BOAT AND THE DOCK!
Docking under sail is for well-insured, hotshot, experts. They often embarrass themselves.
Don‟t try it.
Someone must be on the dock to attach the lines (know your knots). This person
sometimes gets off the boat by jumping. But, unless your captain has told you to do so, do not
jump on the dock. You could be badly hurt or killed if you get caught between the boat and
the dock! If you don‟t think that you‟re athletic enough for the jump, decline. If there is no
one on the dock to assist, you can always get to the dock with the dinghy or by swimming. Be
prepared to abort and try again; take as many approaches as you need. As always, your
Boating 101
35
priorities should be personal safety then boat safety. One safe docking after 20 tries is much
more impressive than a single error.
Many docks are for temporary use. Such uses include fueling up and picking up guests. If
you are on such a dock, do your job and get off quickly!
Spring lines help. Once you have attached bow and stern lines the boat will hold much better
if you also run a spring line. A spring line runs the length of the boat (it can be attached to
either the bow or stern) and is attached to the dock at the other end of the boat. It doesn‟t hurt
to run spring lines in both directions.
It often helps to have a spare fender ready. Let a person who has nothing else to do hold it. If
it looks like it might be a good idea to put a body part between the boat and the dock, use the
fender instead.
Remember! Never let any part of your body get between the boat and the dock for any
reason! Fiberglass is easy to repair; people are not.
Slips
Slips are a bit like docks but a little trickier to enter. Have your captain explain your job
before you approach the slip. Usually, when entering a slip, the captain will want people on
both sides of the boat ready to push of on the poles (pilings) or finger dock(s) on either side of
the slip. You might also be expected to grab or attach boat lines. I recommend having a boat
hook, all lines and a few fenders ready. As always, never allow any part of your body to get
between the boat and the dock or piling. Have a spare fender ready.
Rafting Up
Rafting up is like docking except that the other boat is treated as a dock. If there are any
waves (swell), rafting up can be a very unsafe procedure. Under most circumstances, I do
not recommend rafting up. Should you be rafted up, be sure to use plenty of fenders and do
not let anyone put any part of their body between the boats at any time. Remember, even in a
perfectly calm anchorage, a passing boat can make a wave (wake). Decisions as to how many
anchors and in what directions they should be placed in a raft up are beyond the scope of this
booklet.
If you raft up, run spring lines in both directions (see docking).
A much safer way of “rafting up” is to simply tie a smaller vessel to the stern of a larger one;
like a dinghy. This only works if the larger vessel‟s anchor(s) can take the additional strain
and there is enough line between the vessels so that the smaller vessel does not ride up and hit
the larger vessel.
36
Captain Charlie's
Sailing
In it‟s basic form, sailing is rather simple.
Sails create wing shapes which pull
(lateral lift) the boat forward. If you
don‟t understand this, don‟t worry. The
actions required to get decent
performance out of a boat are fairly
simple. On the other hand, a lot of very
intelligent people have spent (and are
spending) their entire lives learning to get
the best performance out of their boats.
Parts of the Sail
Head
Head
Leech
Luff
Luff
Leech
Main
The main trick is to get the most efficient
sail shape. As always, it is best to follow
professional advice.
If you want to work with or talk about
sails, a little terminology is helpful.
Tack
Regardless of how the triangle of the sail
Clew
Foot
Tack
Clew
Foot
is oriented the corner of the sail closest to
the bow is called the tack, the corner
closest to the stern is the clew, and the
top corner is called the head. The
forward edge is called the luff the back
edge is called the leech and the bottom
edge is called the foot. If the main sail
has flat bars stiffening the leech, they are called battens (not shown).
Jib
The following rules should give you some basic idea of what is going on. But the rules are
not written in stone. Sailing is an art; experienced sailors get better performance by knowing
when to “break” these rules.
• Lines used to raise sails (Halyards) should be made as tight as possible.
• The closer the wind direction is to coming from the front of the boat (bow), the closer you
want to have the line of the sails to the imaginary line down the center of the boat. The
more the wind is from the rear (stern), the further the sail should be released making the
line of the sail perpendicular to the boat. Sheets run back to the cockpit and are used to
control the angle of the sails.
• Another way to think of the orientation of the sails is, when the boat is headed upwind the
sail will act as a wing and always have pretty much the same orientation to the wind
direction. Downwind, the sail acts like scoop or a parachute.
• If the boat is leaning (heeling) over too much, letting some tension off the sheets will right
it – sometimes this needs to be done quickly. Unless the wind is coming from exactly the
direction you want to go, increasing the tension on the sheets will decrease sail flapping.
• To tune (trim) the sails, choose your course then tighten the sheets until they just stop
flapping. If the sail is too tight or loose, you will not go as fast. Check once and awhile to
see if the sails are still just trimmed. Pay special attention to the area at the top of the sail
near the mast.
•
•
•
•
Boating 101
37
If your destination is directly into the wind, the sails will always flap and you will have to
turn back and forth (tack) up the wind or turn on your engine to get where you want to go
(some say “a gentleman always motors to wind”).
If the wind is blowing hard, the sails should be shortened (reefed) (how hard the wind has
to blow before reefing depends on the boat). In high winds, a boat with reefed sails will be
easier to handle, faster and safer. It is better to err on the side of reefing too soon as it can
be hard to reef when conditions are made unsafe by to much wind on too much sail.
If you turn towards the direction that the wind is coming from, your are heading up. If you
turn away from the direction that the wind is
coming from, you are falling off. Given the Points of Sail
Close Hauled
same sail angle, heading up will decrease
Wind
Direction
the boat‟s angle with the direction that the
wind is coming from.
Close Reach
Generally you want to be heading directly
into the wind when you raise or lower sails.
Beam Reach
You also want to be almost at a dead
standstill and pointed into the wind when
you drop your anchor. See anchoring.
Broad Reach
Check the sails for damage before you leave on
•
a trip. This may not always be possible. If the
Run
boat is at the dock or there is some other reason
that you can not perform this act, do it as quickly as possible. Three days into a bareboat
charter while on a hard beat is not the time to notice that the sails are damaged. That could be
your deposit that you hear ripping. It‟s no fun to sail with damaged equipment.
Also check your rigging before you go. Rigging is the wires and plates that attach the wires to
the hull and mast. Look to see that the wires are not frayed and that the chain plates are not
deformed or cracked. Look closely! If you see something that is questionable, ASK!
Racing
While most boat races (including the America‟s Cup) are at speeds slower than a person can
run, there is a lot of tension on a racing boat. If you are new to boating and invited on a race
boat, chances are that they will want you to “ride the rail” (people who do this are often called
“rail meat” – think about it). Riding the rail involves some hours of sitting in spray and
occasionally moving (very fast) to the other side of the boat. Many people consider this an
honor.
Racing sailors yell. If various members of the crew shout obscenities, even if they are
shouting at you, do not take it personally. Try to listen for the instruction part and ignore the
rest. Ask what you are expected to do before the race begins. Ideally you will have
opportunity to practice a few times. If there is any chance that you don‟t know how to
accomplish a command, be sure to say that you don‟t understand ASAP.
Weather
Before you leave and while on the water, you should listen to marine weather forecasts at
least once a day. Ask around to find where to listen. Nasty weather needs only a few
minutes to develop but can usually be predicted for days. Fortunately in these days of
satellites and planes there is no reason that any storm should be a surprise. You should know
what methods you can use to hear the weather forecast.
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Captain Charlie's
There is a section on important weather terms at the back of this book.
It may be a cliché that talking about the weather is a sure fire conversation starter on shore but
anyone who lives on the water is very interested. Almost every boater will be happy to share
what information they have. Ask people you meet on piers or at boater watering holes (bars).
Most bartenders of bars that cater to boaters will know if something nasty is brewing; these
persons will often also know what radio stations are good for local forecasts.
While the appropriate responses to weather conditions are too complex to be discussed in this
book, I can give you a few clues.
• You will be able to see rain coming towards your boat for many miles. Sometimes you will
even be able to dodge it!
• At the edge of most storms the wind velocity will increase dramatically.
• Shortly after rain begins, wind may decrease or increase dramatically. Wave height will
decrease. Visibility will decrease dramatically. Check your surroundings and compass
heading before rain or fog hits!
• It is usually calmer after a storm has passed.
• It is usually calmer at night.
• On days with light wind, there will usually be a little more wind at sunrise and sunset.
A weather forecast is no good if you don‟t respond to it. Hurricanes and tropical storms are
the worst threats. Fortunately these threats are very rare and very easy to track. A common
threat is the edges of fronts.
Other than get hurt, there is very little you can do aboard a boat in a nasty storm. Do not stay
aboard a boat in any hurricane and consider getting off the boat for a tropical storm. If bad
weather is imminent, call your charter agency and ask what you can do to help secure the boat.
Give yourself plenty of time to get to a solid, safe structure on shore after you have secured
the boat. Do not leave your shelter till you are sure that the storm is well past.
Off the Boat
Boat Security
Boats are usually very safe. I lock my private boat up on the average of once a year or less.
Unfortunately, charter boats are easily identifiable and a favorite target. Do take the following
into consideration:
• Even when you are aboard, hide your valuables. This includes your wallet. Thieves will
check obvious places like your purse or pockets.
• Guns are a bad idea.
• It is a good idea to lock the boat up when you are not aboard.
• Always lock and cable the dinghy to the dock or boat.
• Don‟t anchor next to questionable boats. I hate to condemn a whole group of people but
the French boaters are notorious for feeling that it is OK to share without asking. Watch
out for French flags.
• Don‟t anchor next to poorly maintained boats, some of these folks might want to “borrow”
parts.
• Some kids are brave enough to board a boat at night with persons aboard. You might wish
to leave some noisy things for them to trip over. The classic cure for night intruders is a
Boating 101
39
liberal dose of carpet tacks on deck but you will have to watch these yourself and pick them
up later. Perhaps this cure is worse than the disease.
Visiting a New Spot
Think about the kind of experience that you want. Some people like to get off the beaten
path and see how people really live or see no one at all. Others like to have all the creature
comforts and the latest newspapers available. Both types of trip have their rewards but
seldom can you do both at once.
Respect is the most important rule. You are visiting someone‟s home and culture. Don‟t
suggest improvements or criticize (love it or leave it). Don‟t leave anything but good
memories. Don‟t throw money around and harm a fragile economy.
The people you meet will often be rather relaxed. This does not mean that you should show
anything but respect for their culture. Unless the natives do too, don‟t walk through town
without a shirt or in a bathing suit. Learn enough of the local language to liberally spread the
appropriate “hello.” If you are not sure what is appropriate, find someone who speaks English
and ask.
"Off the beaten path" means different things to different people. When lots of tourists are
involved, there is a tendency to create places that look like every other place. Perhaps this is
evolutionary; there are only so many ways to present T-shirts and frozen drinks. I think that,
like prime time TV, these places never offend (and seldom excite). This is fine with me.
It‟s nice to have all those tourists clustered and easily avoided. The places that I really try to
avoid are ones that are “just like home.” If your idea of a great place is one just like America,
why bother to travel?
Persons who work in the tourist traps tend to be different from other locals. These persons
have learned behaviors to deal with people from a wide variety of cultures and they apply
them mechanically. They may be entertaining (or very much the opposite). Try to understand
it from their perspective. It's difficult to open your heart and truly interact with hundreds or
thousands of people a day. Particularly after you've run into a few bad apples and seen your
way of life change to accommodate visitors who are just passing through. Thus it‟s unfair to
expect a person working in a trap to be “real.”
If you want to meet “real” locals, you must be prepared to do it on their terms. When going
into the “bush,” it‟s essential to have good humor and sincere respect for the local life style.
In compensation for all the new things you will see, some things you are used to may be
missing (ice is one that comes to mind). I hope that I'm never called upon to eat a bug, or that,
if I am, I do it correctly.
It‟s not easy to get off the beaten path. Don‟t expect your cab driver or even your tour guide
to understand what you want. Most tour guides and drivers get a kickback from restaurants
and “tourist attractions” for bringing persons to these establishments. Of course the kickback
is built into your meal/entry fee. Because of this, your “guide” might have very particular
ideas about where they take you. Many will just not be able to understand what you are
talking about.
Happily, once you are off the beaten path, well behaved (by local standards – not yours)
tourists are usually a welcome and interesting phenomena. If you can manage to find the
spots were the locals hang out, people are excited to talk to you about themselves and find out
about you. Think of these folks like they are from a small rural town. They will not be
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Captain Charlie's
favorably impressed by high fashion or other conspicuous displays of wealth. Casually check
out what the folks you would like to meet are wearing and try to dress like them.
Another good trick when traveling is to go off-season. Rates are usually cheaper and your
hosts will have more time for you.
Customs & Other Officials
If you are going to visit foreign countries, get a passport.
Do not bother officials. No matter how much of an ass they may be, it pays to be unfailingly
polite to everyone, especially government officials. By definition, they are right. Do not try
to tell them how to run their organization better, that they are wrong, bully them, mention
“connections” or do other acts that might antagonize them. Do smile and have all your
paperwork ready and in order (this includes passports and boat documentation). Dress
properly (shoes, shorts and a shirt) and bring your own pen.
Of course you should run a legal boat. All the proper paperwork should always be done.
Sometimes this means getting a visa before you enter a country. Check. No drugs should be
allowed aboard. Check! There is often not much point in bringing guns as customs officials
will usually hold them anyway. If it will make you feel safer, you might want to bring some
mace or a noisemaker. The rare boat theft is usually by an unarmed and very frightened
teenager.
In most other countries citizens are not allowed to own a gun, however many government
officials compensate for the fellow citizen‟s lack by carrying huge guns. Sometimes they
carry machine guns. I have heard that it is cheaper to make a big gun than a small one.
Officials can be scary. Many officials can afford a gun but can‟t afford a uniform. Large guns
held by poorly clad, desperado-looking persons often offend American sensibilities.
Sometimes these folks will want to board your boat; let them. Be nice, show your documents.
Unless you need assistance, do not attract the attention of officials; they are there to protect
you but find other things to do if disturbed.
Bribes are still a way of life in many places. In some countries, a small “bribe” is expected
and can save you lots of trouble. A bribe is usually something small like a drink, a bottle of
booze or a couple of dollars. Officials from countries with low per capita income tend to
expect bribes. Spanish speaking officials tend to have their hands out the most.
Find out the rules for where you are going. Offering anything or too much makes you look
suspicious and can get you in trouble. In most countries, trying to offer a bribe will get you in
BIG trouble. I have a friend who carries a bunch of crisp five-dollar bills when traveling.
Before he is boarded he removes the appropriate number of bills from his stash. He claims
that a crisp five goes further than a wrinkled twenty.
Often bribes are “asked” for in the form of some undocumented “fee.” Save face for all by
paying it. Such fees are usually adjustable. It‟s OK to bargain. You will be presented with
lower “fees” if you do not present yourself dressed in designer sailing clothes and dripping in
jewelry. Don‟t dress so poorly as to show a lack of respect.
As always, be sure to ask before taking anyone‟s picture.
While most agencies will take US dollars, it may help to have a small quantity of the local
currency (see the section on Money).
Boating 101
41
Animals
Do you really need your pet on your vacation? Boating is not usually a vacation for a pet.
Most animals would be happier ashore. An animal raised ashore gets confused and worried
when the boat tilts and pounds through the water. Their paws are not designed to give them a
good grip on the floors and they go sliding. Cats can use a litter box, but it‟s not easy to “take
the dog out for a walk,” and many foreign countries will not allow you to bring your animal
off the boat unless it has gone through a lengthy quarantine period.
Foreign Languages
Remember you are visiting. It is not the people you meet who don‟t speak your language;
you don‟t speak the local tongue. It is helpful to know the language of the place that you are
visiting but I have found that, with a good sense of humor, I usually get by without it. I don‟t
always get what I think I ordered, but the meals have always been good. Saying things slowly
and loudly does not improve another person‟s understanding. They are not stupid or deaf; you
just don‟t speak their language.
I like the new electronic gadgets that automatically translate words you type in. Some of them
will even speak the words! If you don‟t get one of these bring a calculator (see money) and/or
pen and paper. Dictionaries are cheap and do not require batteries. The literacy rate is very
low in many countries so don‟t expect the natives to read what you are presenting.
Pantomime is always fun...
Money
Money is a tough subject. While you will have your own ideas, please take the following into
consideration.
Be sure that you know what currency prices are quoted in! A great deal in another
currency is not such a great deal if it is in US dollars. Intentionally misunderstanding this is a
favorite ploy of taxi drivers. Ask.
Economies are fragile. You have probably saved (vacation time and/or money) a long time
in order to afford your boating vacation. But what the native perceives of most tourists is a
person not working and coughing up bucks like they are going out of style. Therefor all
tourists must be among the idle rich. After a while the prices keep rising because the native
wants to live that way too.
Bargain and shop carefully, don’t throw money around. Often exchange rates or
differences in incomes will make you feel very wealthy. Don‟t say “Wow! That‟s cheap!”
Have consideration for the next tourist and the locals who will have to pay newly inflated
prices. It is best not to have an impact on the economy I.E. the Sierra club says “leave nothing
but footprints” and the Seven Seas Association says “leave no wake.” Leave a pleasant
memory through your attitude.
It may not seem like you are hurting the economy by throwing a few bucks around but think
about the average local income. In many third world countries, the average income for head
of household is way under a thousand United States dollars a year. If you give some cute kid
10 bucks to watch your dinghy, he will probably be making more money than his father who
worked hard all week. What‟s that going to do to the family structure and the child‟s work
ethic? That child will begin to obnoxiously expect money from every tourist they meet for all
sorts of trivial reasons. Think about the people that will follow you and have to deal with that
42
Captain Charlie's
kid (and his friends). It‟s OK to pay for value received but make your payments reasonable on
the local scale.
An alternative to throwing money around is to bring small gifts. Almost anything will do. Tshirts, tennis balls, and over the counter medicines (particularly antibiotics) often go over
well. To preserve family structure, when possible, give gifts to a child‟s parent rather than
directly to the child. The giving of small gifts is a great introduction to a culture.
It can be difficult to figure the true cost of what you're paying for. I find the most
effective method is to figure a number to multiply/divide the local prices by to get back to
dollars and familiar units. Exchange rates change but you can use the table below to convert
meters, liters, imperial gallons and kilos back to familiar units. Current exchange rates can be
found in most major newspapers.
It‟s a good idea to bring a calculator. You can also use the calculator to show numbers if you
don‟t speak the language.
An approximate is usually good enough. Notice that a meter is a little bigger than a yard (by
3.4 inches), a kilo is close to 2 pounds. A chart follows for your convenience.
Standard Conversions
Unit
US to Unit
Unit to US
Weight
Kilogram (kg)
Gram (g)
1 LB = 0.454 kg
1 oz = 28.571 g
1 kg = 2.205 LB
1 g = 0.035 oz
Length
Meter (m) = 39.4 in 1 yd = 0.914 m
Centimeter (cm)
1 in = 2.540 cm
Kilometer (km)
1 mile = 1.609 km
Nautical Mile (NM) 1 mile = .869 NM
Fathom (F)
6 Ft = 1 F
1 m = 1.094 yd
1 cm = 0.394 in
1 km = 0.621 mile
1 NM = 1.151 mile
1 F = 6 Ft
Volume
Liter (l)
Liter (l)
1 (l) = 1.760 pt
1 (l) = 0.220 g
1 pt = 0.568 (l)
1 gal = 4.544 (l)
In example, (watch out, math
ahead) if a kilo of pork chops
cost 42 French Franks (FF)
and the exchange rate you
got was 5.2 FF to the dollar,
the pork chops cost 42 FF
divided by 5.2 (FF/1 US) or
$8.08 a kilo. Since there are
2.2 pounds to the kilo, the
pork chops cost $8.08/Kilo
divided by 2.2 pounds a kilo
or $4 a pound. Unless you
bring a calculator or really
good with math these can be
difficult calculations in your
head or “or on the fly.”
When I do it in my head, I
round 5 FF to the dollar and
2 pounds to the kilo and round the price to the nearest five. The calculations this way would
be 40 FF divided by 5 FF/dollar (8 dollars) divided by 2 pounds a kilo. They both equal four
dollars a pound (or eight dollars spent). Other examples might not work so well but it was
pork chops I bought tonight.
You can get burned on exchange rates. You will not always get the “official” exchange
rates.
Shop around before you exchange your dollars. Professional moneychangers make their
money by giving poor exchange rates. They will be convenient and easy to find. Restaurants
and stores will usually take your dollars but also at a terrible exchange rate. The best rates are
usually found in the banks but it can sometimes be hard to tell the difference between them
and moneychangers.
Boating 101
43
In some countries, the official rate of exchange is not your best deal. In these countries you
will find people (actually they will find you) who are willing to change your dollars for a
much better rate. This is usually an illegal practice and, as an alien, I do not recommend it.
Don‟t get too greedy.
Those exchange rates are important! For instance, if the official exchange rate is 5.2 FF to
the dollar and you get 4.8 FF everything you buy will cost you about 8% more than it should!
Even more if there is a service charge for the exchange!
Credit cards can work great. If you use credit cards, be sure that you either use your card to
get local currency from a bank or get charged with the local currency on the card.
I have always managed to find a bank where I use my credit card to get local currency at the
official exchange rate and with no service charge. Sometimes I have had to visit a few
banks...
When you purchase in the local currency, most credit card companies give the official
exchange rate with no additional costs. Don‟t let your bill get converted into US dollars
unless you are given the official exchange rate (many places like to do this as they make an
additional profit). They often claim that the conversion is as convenience to you so that you
will understand the bill better.
Make sure that, if you are charged in the local currency, some notation is made of that on the
receipt! Sometimes American banks get confused and charge you the amount in US dollars.
Be sure that the type of currency is indicated on your charge slip and keep the slip. While it is
not often done in the US, many places will charge you the 5% they get billed at the bank for
use of a credit card.
Tipping
Tipping is another area where you should not throw money around. Particularly if you are
traveling off the beaten path, tipping may not be expected. You will make things difficult for
the locals and for future travelers if you tip indiscriminately. In most places outside of the US
they don't expect tips – unless previous Americans have taught bad habits. In some places,
the tip will automatically (by law) be included in the price of the food – not as a separate line
item. If in doubt, ask if the tip is included and read your guidebooks to find out what is
expected. In places where it is not expected, only tip as a sincere reward. The best tip can be a
small gift or buying the person (even the owner) a drink.
Beggars
It can ruin a work ethic when begging pays well. This is a personal call but I don‟t give away
money. I will buy food or other items for a person in real need.
I only find beggars in the major population areas. Outside of town, people seem as “poor” or
poorer but they don't ask for money. It could be that outside of town people have different
values and needs. They live in a beautiful place, aren't hungry, have a roof over their heads,
and friends and beliefs. In some ways they are richer than many millionaires. If they can't
afford a color TV or that fancy food item, no one else they know can either. Town, with its
access to modern advertisement, creates artificial needs.
After You Get Back
There are three concerns when you get back: cleaning, supplies, and cash.
44
Captain Charlie's
You will often be tired and ready to go home at the end of your trip. So will your captain and
crew. The captain and crew can‟t leave until the boat has been made shipshape. Be part of
the solution. Your first thought should be to get your gear together and personal space clean.
You can do this long before the boat gets close to shore. At shore, ask what parts of the
general boat cleaning you can assist with. Again, much of this can be done before the boat
stops but be sure not to disappear when you are needed on deck!
It is polite to leave any remaining provisions. If you have been on a professional fishing
charter, unless you made prior arrangements, do not expect to keep the fish.
On paid charters, it is customary to tip the captain and crew ten percent of the cost of your
charter. Even owner/captains appreciate a tip. If you have been a guest, particularly on
powerboats, it is nice to offer to help pay for fuel. If you are feeling generous it is a nice
gesture to offer to take captain/crew to dinner and/or, if you are close to home, you might
consider offering to do some laundry for those that live aboard.
Boating 101
45
Appendix I: Further Knowledge
Organizations
The following organizations and materials and are suggested.
Boat US
An organization of boaters. Also a source for much of the material recommended
in this section. Call (800) 336-BOAT, (800) 937-BOAT or (800) 669-8585. Ask
for their Boat Handling Guide sticker.
Internet
Your author ([email protected]) maintains several reference links to travel. Try
http://charlie.balch.org/refs.htm#travel and http://worldexplorer.net
My home page contains links to my logs and other sea stories. It‟s at
http://charlie.balch.org
US Coast Guard A partial list of useful publications follows:
Federal requirements for Recreational Boats,
Visual Distress Signals for Recreational Boaters,
A Mini History of the U.S. Coast Guard 1790-1990
and Tips for Safe Boating.
Write: Commandant (G-CP)
US Coast Guard
Washington, D.C. 20593-0001
or
Superintendent of Documents
Government Printing Office
Washington DC, 20402
(202) 783-3238
Coast Guard AuxiliaryThis non-profit group offers top quality, inexpensive classes to the
general public. Call (800) 368-5647 for more information.
Power Squadron
Despite their name, this non-profit group offers top quality, inexpensive
classes to the general public on subjects of interest to people use both power and
sailboats. Call (919) 821-0281 or fax (919) 836-0813 for more information. Get
their boating course book and video.
Books
The following books are good sources of further information.
Safety
Advanced First Aid Afloat. by Peter Eastment M.D.
Emergencies at Sea. by Sid Stapelton (Part of the Chapman series).
Seamanship
Anchoring. by Brian Fagan
Annapolis Book of Seamanship. by John Rousmaniere
Basic Sailing. by M.B. George.
Boat Handling Under Power: A Motorboat and Yacht Owner’s Guide. by John Mellor.
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Captain Charlie's
Boat Owner’s Energy Planner. by Kevin and Nan Jeffrey.
Capable Cruiser. by Lin and Larry Pardey.
Celestial Navigation: A Step by Step Procedure for the Complete Idiot. By K. Kenny
Chapman piloting, Seamanship, Small Boat Handling. by Elbert S. Maloney. Get the current
edition. This is the “boating bible.” While it covers everything that there is to
know about small boat handling, it can get a bit dry and technical. But if you
were to buy only one more boating book, this should probably be the one.
Communications Afloat. by Elbert S. Maloney (Part of the Chapman series).
Essential Knot Book. by Colin Karmen
Glossary of Modern Sailing Terms. by John Rousmaniere.
International Yacht Racing Rules. by USYRU (United States Yacht Racing Union). Get the
current edition. This technical book covers THE rules of racing.
Klutz Book of Knots. by John Cassidy
Marine Diesel Engines by Nigel Calder. Mr. Calder is an excellent author on a variety of
topics.
Red Cross Learn to Sail Book
Navigation
Navigation Rules International/Inland (CG-169). by the U.S. Coast Guard. Can be a little dry
in spots but, by law, this information must be aboard all boats over 12 meters
(39.4 feet).
Reed’s Nautical Almanac & Coast Pilot. for your current year and location. Another boating
bible. In addition to discussing a wide variety of topics (from anchoring to
navigation) this book includes current information on tides and navigation marks.
Repairs & Maintenance
Modern Boat Maintenance edited by Bo Streifert.
Repairs at Sea. by Nigel Calder. Mr. Calder is an excellent author on a variety of topics.
Shipshape: The Art of Sailboat Maintenance by Ferenc Maté.
Your Boat’s Electrical System. by Conrad Miller and E. S. Maloney.
Etiquette
Boating Etiquette. by Queen Hooper Foster (Part of the Chapman series).
Living Aboard
Babies Aboard by Lindsay Green
Care and Feeding of the Offshore Crew. by Lin and Larry Pardey.
Two Burner Gourmet, by Terry L. Searfross.
Easy Reading
Chasing the Horizon. by Captain “Fatty” Goodlander. A great tale to a nautical theme.
Easy in the Islands. by Bob Shacochis. Some of the best “literary” short stories that I have
discovered about the Caribbean.
Boating 101
47
Maiden Voyage by Tania Aebi. This is an inspirational book that will do much to get you out
on the water.
Sea Dogs, Clowns and Gypsies. by Captain “Fatty” Goodlander. Great boating stories.
Tales From Margaritaville. by Jimmy Buffet. Great easy reading to a nautical background.
General
Psychology of Sailing: The Sea’s Effects on Mind and Body. by Michael Stadler. An
interesting book on how our senses are effected by being in the ocean
environment.
Sailing as a Second Language: An Illustrated Dictionary. by Fred Edwards.
Small Boat Guide to Rules of the Road by John Mellor.
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Captain Charlie's
Appendix II: Weather Terms
Advisories are used to disseminate important weather information and storm data to the
public every six hours. Small craft warnings are released as necessary. Many
foreign locations may not offer this service in English (or at all).
Tropical Disturbances are areas of rain and clouds with no circulation of winds.
Tropical Waves
are lines or “fronts” of weak low pressure moving 15 to 20 mph.
Clouds and rain are associated with the wave, but no circulation in the winds.
Tropical waves may be short lived or may move some 3,000 miles without any
change. There may be a number of these at any one time. While you can move a
boat during a wave, they are usually short lived and it is best to wait them out. A
tropical wave may develop into a tropical depression.
Tropical Depressions are areas with rotary circulation of clouds and winds to 38 mph. Do
not take a boat out in a tropical depression or allow one to catch you on the open
ocean. Tropical depressions may develop into a tropical storm.
Tropical Storms are sustained winds of 39 mph. Tropical storms have distinct rotation of
winds. Rainfall may equal or exceed that of some hurricanes and tides may be
several feet higher than normal. While sustained winds are less than 74 mph,
wind gusts may reach hurricane velocity. Do not take a boat out in a tropical
storm or allow one to catch you on the open ocean. You should consider securing
the boat and seeking shelter if a tropical storm is immanent. Tropical storms may
develop into hurricanes.
Hurricanes are sustained winds of at least 74 mph blowing counter clockwise around the
center. The intensities of hurricanes are discussed below. If a hurricane is
imminent, your boat should be secured and you should be in strong shelter on
shore. Do not choose a shelter that may be flooded by storm surge or flash floods.
Call your charter company to ask what actions they wish you to take.
Hurricane Watches are declared for a specified area threatened by a hurricane.
Hurricane Warnings are declared for a specific area when a hurricane is expected to strike
within 24 hours.
Hurricane Center or “Eye” is the relatively calm area near the center of the storm. It is
unwise to go out in the eye of a storm as winds can increase to hurricane force in
seconds.
Storm Surge
is caused when the strong winds associated with hurricanes and tropical
storms cause the sea level to rise above normal tidal heights.
Boating 101
Beaufort Scale
The Beaufort scale is used to describe wind conditions.
#
0
1
2
3
4
5
6
7
8
9
10
11
12
Speed
> 1
1- 3
4- 6
7 - 10
11 - 16
17 - 21
22 - 27
28 - 33
34 - 40
41 - 47
48 - 55
56 - 63
> 64
Description
Calm
Light Air
Light Breeze
Gentle Breeze
Moderate Brz.
Fresh Breeze
Strong Breeze
Near Gale
Gale
Strong Gale
Storm
Violent Storm
Hurricane
Effect on Water
Sea like a mirror
Small Ripples
Short, small wavelets
2 ft. waves w/ some crests
4 ft. waves w/ some whitecaps
6 ft. waves w/ whitecaps
10 ft. waves w/ some spray
14 ft. waves w/ foam and spray
18 ft. waves w/ heavy spray/foam
23 ft. waves w/ dense foam
29 ft. waves w/ seas look white
37 ft. waves w/ poor visibility
> 45 ft. waves w/ no visibility
49
50
Captain Charlie's
Hurricane Strengths by Category
Category One
Winds of 74 to 95 mph, damage primarily to shrubbery, trees, foliage
and unanchored mobile homes. No real damage to other structures. Some
damage to poorly constructed signs. Storm surge 4 to 5 feet above normal. Low
lying coastal roads inundated. Minor pier damage, some small craft lost and boats
on exposed anchorages torn from their mooring.
Category Two
Winds of 96 to 110 mph. Considerable damage to shrubbery and tree
foliage, some trees blown down. Major damage to exposed mobile homes,
extensive damage to poorly constructed signs. Some damage to roofing materials
of buildings, some window and door damage, no major damage to buildings.
Storm surge 6 to 8 feet above normal. Coastal roads and low lying escape routes
inland cut by rising water two to four hours before arrival of the hurricane center.
Considerable damage to piers, marinas flooded, small craft in unprotected
anchorages torn from moorings, evacuation of some shoreline residences and low
lying island areas required.
Category Three
Winds of 111 to 130 mph. Foliage torn from trees, large trees blown
down, practically all poorly constructed signs blown down, some damage to
roofing materials and buildings, some window and door damage, some structural
damage to small buildings, mobile homes destroyed. Storm surge brings water
level 9 to 12 feet above normal. Serious flooding at the coast and many smaller
structures near coast destroyed. Larger structures near coast damaged by battering
waves and floating debris. Low lying escape routes inland cut by rising water 3 to
5 hours before hurricane center arrives. Flat terrain 5 feet or less above sea level
flooded.
Category Four
Winds 131 to 155 mph. Shrubs and trees blown down, all signs down,
extensive damage to roofing materials, windows and doors, complete failure of
roofs on many small residences, complete destruction of mobile homes. Storm
surge brings water level 13 to 18 feet above normal, flat terrain 10 feet or less
above sea level flooded inland as far as six miles, major damage to lower floors of
structures near shore due to flooding and battering by waves and floating debris.
Low lying escape routes inland cut by rising water 3 to 5 hours before hurricane
center arrives. Major erosion of beaches. Massive evacuation of all residences
within 500 yards of shore possibly required and of single story residences on low
ground within two miles of shore.
Category Five
Winds greater than 155 mph. Shrubs and trees blown down,
considerable damage to roofs of buildings, all signs down, very severe and
extensive damage to windows and doors, complete failure of roofs on many
residences and industrial buildings, extensive shattering of glass of windows and
doors, some complete building failures, small buildings overturned or blown
away, complete destruction of mobile homes. Storm surge brings water level
greater than 18 feet above normal; major damage to lower floors of all structures
less than fifteen feet above sea level within 500 yards of shore; low lying escape
routes inland cut by rising water 3 to 5 hours before hurricane center arrives;
massive evacuation of residential areas on low ground within 5 to 10 miles of
shore possibly required.
Boating 101
51
52
Captain Charlie's
Appendix III: Glossary
A
Abeam
At right angles to the boat‟s centerline.
Aboard
In a boat.
Adrift
Drifting.
Afloat
Floating.
Aft
Towards the stern.
Aground
A boat whose hull or keel is stuck to the bottom.
Ahead
In front of the boat.
Alee
Away from the wind (to leeward). The term “Hard alee” or “helm‟s alee” is
usually called before the boat is tacked.
All Hands The entire crew.
Aloft
Above the deck, usually in the rigging.
Alongside Beside a pier or boat.
Anchor
A device used with a line to attach a boat to the bottom.
Anchor Rode
The line and/or chain attached to an anchor.
Apparent Wind
The wind you feel on a moving boat (compare to true wind).
Athwartship
Across the centerline of the boat.
Automatic Pilot
A device that steers the boat on a desired course.
Auxiliary An engine.
Awash
When seas wash over a boat‟s deck or reef.
Aweigh
An anchor that is off the bottom and being raised.
Awning
A cloth that provides shade over the cockpit.
Bail
To remove water with a bucket.
Bar
An area of shallow water; usually found at the entrance to a harbor or river.
B
Bareboat A chartered boat that has no paid crew.
Barometer An instrument that indicates atmospheric pressure.
Batten
A thin, narrow, flexible slat that is inserted into a pocket of the leech of the sail to
keep it from fluttering.
Batten Down
To prepare the boat for rough weather.
Beach BoatA small and light boat that can easily be pulled on a beach.
Beam
The width of a boat.
Bearing
The direction between the boat and another object. See compass.
Beat
To sail close to the direction that the wind is coming from.
Berth
A bed or location at a pier.
Bilge
The lowest part of the boat. A little water usually accumulates in the bilge.
Boating 101
Bin
A recessed storage compartment.
Block
A pulley on a boat.
Blue Water
Board
53
Deep ocean water.
To get on a boat.
Boat Bites Minor bruises and cuts that seem to appear by magic on boats.
Boat Hook A pole with a hook used to get things out of the water.
Boom
A metal pole that extends perpendicularly from a mast. The boom is used to pull
the clew of the sail tight. The boom is potentially very dangerous as it may
suddenly swing from one side of the boat to another. Some say that the boom got
it‟s name because that is the sound it makes when it hits a the head of a person
who did not duck. You would rather be hit by a baseball bat.
Bow
The front of a boat.
Bowsprit An extension of the bow.
Bulkhead A wall that separates rooms.
Buoy
An anchored floating object.
Canvas
Sails.
Car
An adjustable slide that runs on a track. These usually hold a pulley.
Cast Off
To let go of a line.
C
A two hulled boat. Often abbreviated “cat.”
Catamaran
Cat Rig
A sailboat that has no jib. The mast will be very near the front of the boat.
Centerboard
Chafe
A retractable slab that can be used to increase the depth of a boat‟s keel.
Wear on gear or sails.
Chain Plates
Strong plates attached to the hull. Metal wires that support the mast
(stays) are attached.
Channel
A navigable path of water.
Chart
A map of a body of water.
Charter
To rent a boat.
Chop
Sea condition with frequent steep waves.
Chowder Seafood soup.
Clear
No restrictions.
Cleat
A device for securing lines to a boat or dock.
Cockpit
A recessed area in the deck usually with a helm.
Coil
To arrange a line in neat loops.
Companionway A passageway from the deck to below decks.
Compass
A device to indicate magnetic direction. Note that the true direction, as indicated
by charts, will be different.
Course
The direction that the boat is moving or should move.
54
Captain Charlie's
Crew
Anyone who helps in the boats operation.
Cruise
A pleasure boating experience.
Cruising Speed The speed at which the engine is most efficient.
Current
Movement of water.
Davits
Miniature cranes used to store dinghies. Usually on the stern of a boat.
Deck
The top of the boat that you can walk on.
Depth
The distance from the surface of the water to bottom.
D
Depth Sounder
Dinghy
A device used to measure the depth.
A small, light rowing or sailing boat.
Dismasted A boat with a broken mast.
Documented
A boat that is registered with the U.S. government.
Draft
The depth of the boat below the surface. This is important to know because your
draft determines the depth of the water that you can maneuver in.
Ease
To reduce pressure or tension.
Fast
To secure, to make fast.
Fender
An object placed between the boats hull and another surface that might cause
damage.
Fend Off
To prevent a boat from hitting another object.
Fix
The calculation of a boat‟s position.
Fleet
A group of boats.
E
F
Following Sea Waves from behind.
Fore
Forward.
Foredeck The deck area between the mast and bow.
Foul
A tangled line or anchor.
Freshen
An increase in wind.
Furl
To put sails away.
Galley
Kitchen.
Gimbals
Supports that permit an object such as a lamp or stove to remain level as the boat
moves from side to side.
G
Groundswell
Long smooth waves.
Ground Tackle Anchoring gear.
H
Halyard
A wire or line used to pull up sails.
Boating 101
Hand
55
A crew member.
Hand Signals
Visual commands.
Hatch
Opening in a deck.
Haul
To pull.
Head
A toilet.
Heading
Course (direction of travel) also a direction on a compass.
Heel
The degree to which the boat tilts.
Helm
The device or position where the boat is steered.
Hike
To lean out over the water. Usually on the windward side.
Higher
A direction closer to the direction that the wind is coming from.
High-Water Mark The line of debris left on a beach after high tide.
Hitch
A type of knot.
Hoist
To raise something.
Holding Tank
Hook
Onboard sewage holding tank.
A synonym for anchor.
Hull Speed The theoretical maximum speed of a boat from sail effort. Sea conditions can
allow a boat to go faster.
I
In Irons
A boat that is not moving while trying to sail.
Inlet
A entrance to a small bay.
Islet
A small island.
J
Jerry Can An easily transportable container that holds liquids (usually fuel or water).
Jib
The forward sail.
Jibe
When sailing, to change direction by bringing the stern of the boat through the
wind. This maneuver is strenuous on boat equipment.
Keel
A heavy fin under most sailboats.
Keelhaul
A historic punishment where a person was tied with several lines and dragged
under the boat. If the keelhauled person did not drown from the experience they
would likely end up with severe wounds from barnacles and other growth
attached to the keel.
Ketch
A two masted sailboat where the aft mast is in front of the rudder post.
Kevlar
A trade name for the material used in some high performance sails.
K
Knockdown
Sudden and extreme heeling due to wind or waves.
Knot
Speed of one nautical mile (1.15 statute miles / hour).
Landfall
The first sighting of land.
L
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Launch
Noun: A small powerboat used to ferry people. Verb: To put a boat in the water.
Lee
Abbreviation for leeward.
Leeward
Away from the wind (opposite of windward).
Leeward Islands The northern lesser Antilles from the Virgin Islands to the Antilles
Leg
A part of a cruise or race.
Life Jacket See PFD.
Life Line Wire that circles the outside of the boat above deck to prevent people and other
items from going overboard.
Light
A lighthouse or buoy.
Line
A length of rope.
Locker
A storage area on a boat.
Luff
(1) The forward edge of the sail. (2) Occurs when a sail that is shaking because
the boat is trying to sail too close to the direction that the wind is coming from.
Lull
A temporary decrease in wind velocity.
Main
Abbreviation for mainsail.
Mainsail
The principle sail on a boat.
Marina
A place where boats are kept and money goes.
Mast
A vertical pole on to which sails are attached.
Mayday
International distress signal.
Mooring
(1) A permanently set anchor. (2) The act of attaching to a mooring.
M
N
Navigation The science and art of getting a boat to a desired location.
O
Obstruction
Offshore
Something that requires the boat to leave it‟s desired course.
Far away from shore.
Onboard In or on a boat.
P
Painter
A line attached to a dinghy.
Passage
A non-stop sailing trip lasting longer than two days.
Period
The distance between waves.
PFD
Personal Flotation Devices.
Pier
A platform built over the water and provided access to shore.
Pilot
A person who guides ships in and out of ports.
Pinch
To sail too close to the direction that the wind is coming from.
Pitch
The angle of propeller blades or the rising and falling of the boat along the
bow/stern line.
Boating 101
57
Pitchpole When a boat somersaults along the bow/stern line.
Plot
The computation and charting of a boats direction, position and speed.
Point
To sail effectively close to the direction that the wind is coming from.
Port
Facing forward, the left side of a boat or a harbor.
Porthole
A window.
Preventer A line attached to a boom to keep it from moving in an undesired direction.
Prop
See propeller.
Propeller A device that, when rotated by the engine, moves the boat through the water.
Often called prop or screw.
Puff
A short gust of wind.
Pulpit
A wooden stand surrounded by guardrail at the bow.
R
Radar Reflector A device used to make a boat more visible on a radar screen. Usually
hoisted into the rigging.
RDF
Radio Direction Finder. Used for navigation.
Reef
To decrease a sails area or an underwater obstruction.
Regatta
A gathering or race involving a large number of boats.
Rigging
The parts of the boat that control the sails.
Right of Way
The legal right to hold a course. The rules for deciding this are
complicated. Always act like the other boat has right of way.
Roller Furler
A device that allows sail to be rolled as it is put away.
Rope
Line.
Rudder
A fin like appendage in the water used to steer a boat.
Rules of the Road Official regulations describing how boats should behave under a variety
of conditions.
S
Sail Cover A cloth used to cover and protect sails.
Saloon
The main cabin
Samson Post
A type of cleat
Schooner A multimasted ship in which the forward mast is the same size or shorter than
other mast(s).
Scope
In anchoring, the ratio between the amount of line (rode) and the water depth. See
anchoring.
Screw
See Propeller.
Sea Anchor
Essentially an underwater parachute used in open ocean to slow
drifting.
Sea Cock A valve attached to a through hull opening.
Sea Room Sufficient space for safe maneuvering.
Seize
To secure a line to another line or fitting.
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Captain Charlie's
Settee
A bench that can be converted into a bunk.
Shackle
A metal loop with a removable pin.
Shakedown Cruise The first trip on a boat.
Sheet
A line used to adjust the angle of the sails.
Ship’s Papers Ship‟s Documents.
Shoal
An area of shallow water.
Shoal Draft
A boat with shallow draft.
Single-handed With a crew of one. Solo sailing.
Skipper
The person in charge while the vessel is moving.
Sleigh Ride
A fast trip with wind and waves behind.
Slicker
Foul weather gear.
Sloop
A single masted sailboat.
Slop
Confused seas with choppy waves coming from a variety of directions.
Spinnaker A large, colorful, lightweight sail set in front of the bow when the wind is from
behind the boat.
Splice
To join wires or lines by interweaving their strands.
Spring Lines
A type of dock lines used to limit the movement of the boat.
Spring Tide
An unusually high tide.
Squall
A sudden local storm.
Stanchion A metal support that holds up the lifeline.
Starboard Facing the bow, the right side of the boat.
Stateroom A sleeping cabin.
Stays
Wires or rods that support the mast.
Steerage Way The speed required to steer the boat.
Stern
The back of the boat.
Storm Anchor An extra heavy anchor.
Stow
To put something away.
Stuffing Box
The waterproof apparatus which the propeller shaft passes through as it
leaves the hull.
Surf
To ride down the face of a wave.
Tack
To turn the boat with the bow crossing the direction of the wind.
Tackle
A system of pulleys used to increase the pulling power of a line.
Tail
To haul the loose line released by winching.
Telltale
A short bit of yarn used to indicate wind direction.
T
Three Sheets to the Wind Drunk
Through Hull A fitting that passes through the hull of the boat.
Boating 101
Tide
The rise and fall of the water level.
Tiller
A pole attached to the rudder.
Topsides
The sides of the hull above the waterline.
Transom The stern part of the topsides.
Trim
To adjust a sail or balance a load.
Turtle
To turn upside down.
U
Under Bare Poles No sails raised.
Under Canvassed Too little sail.
Upwind
The direction from which the wind is coming.
Vang
A device used to pull a boom closer to the deck so as to improve sail shape.
Wake
The waves that a moving boat makes.
Watch
A shift of crew duty.
V
W
Waterline Where the water surface touches the hull.
Weather
A storm or surviving a storm.
Weigh
To raise an anchor.
Wench
A woman.
Wet Locker
A storage area for wet objects.
Windward Towards the wind (opposite of leeward).
Windward Isles Southern most group of the lesser Antilles Islands.
Winch
A mechanical device for pulling in lines.
Windlass A special winch for hauling anchors.
Y
Yacht
An expensive and large boat in very good shape.
Yawl
A two masted boat where the rear mast is smaller and behind the rudder post.
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Appendix IV: Quick Reference
At Your Doctor’s
It is a good idea to get a general physical checkup before leaving on a boating trip. Be sure to
mention that you are going on a trip. While you are at the doctor's office, do the following:
• Make sure that your prescriptions are current and bring copies.
• Make sure that you have proper inoculations and that they are current for the area you will
be visiting.
• Ask about a prescription for epinephrine and learn how and when it should be used.
• Ask about a prescription for Lomotil® or something else potent for diarrhea.
• Have your ears checked for excess wax.
• Ask about a prescription Scopolamine® or similar seasickness patches.
At Your Pharmacy
In addition to the normal first aid kit supplies (make sure that there is a first aid kit on your
boat), consider some additional supplies. Buy them before you leave. Supplies are usually
cheaper and easier to find at home and you don‟t want to your vacation time shopping for
incidentals. Bring what you may need. Remember: “There are no stores at sea.” Keep
materials in an easy to find waterproof container; Tupperware® is great.
•
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•
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•
Bring all prescribed medicines in “pharmacy labeled” containers,
Bring Aloe gel for after burn,
Bring antacid tablets and Milk of Magnesia,
Bring antibiotic cream,
Bring antibiotic ear drops,
Bring antihistamines and epinephrine,
Bring aspirin or Tylenol®,
Bring your preferred method of Birth Control,
Bring Cortisone cream for rashes,
Bring eye wash and use it,
Bring good sunglasses,
Bring medicine for diarrhea and constipation,
Bring plenty of strong sunblock (use it),
Bring seasickness cures,
Bring Silverdine cream for stings and rashes.
Boat Safety Checklist
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Know how to get current weather forecasts.
Know where the life jackets are. Make sure that there is one per person.
Know where the fire extinguishers are and how to use them.
Know where you can quickly get your hands on a knife to cut lines.
Know where a hacksaw and/or bolt cutters can be found.
Know where the anchors, lines and winches are and how to use them.
Know the depth of the boat below the surface (draft).
Know how to steer the boat.
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•
•
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•
Boating 101
61
Everyone should be able to respond correctly should a person falls overboard (man
overboard drill).
Know where and how to use emergency steering.
Know how to turn the engine on and off.
Know at what speed or Revolutions Per Minute (RPMs) the engine can be safely run at.
Know how to use the emergency engine shutoff.
Know how to use the cooking equipment.
Raise and examine the sails for rips and tears.
Know how to shorten (reef) the sails.
Know at what wind speeds the sails should be reefed.
Look at all the rigging for signs of fatigue or corrosions.
Know the basics of how and when the electrical system is charged.
Know how to turn on the bilge pumps.
Know how to operate the shower(s) and head(s).
Know how much water and fuel the boat holds and how to check the levels.
Know where the VHF radio is and how to use it.
Make sure the VHF radio works.
Know who to contact in emergencies. Get their phone numbers.
Know who to contact to make a VHF phone call.
Know where the VHF settings are.
Know how to turn on night running and anchoring lights.
Know where the navigation instruments are and how to turn them on.
Know where the first aid kit is. Ideally someone will know how to use it.
Start the dinghy engine. Know where it‟s fuel is kept and the proper mixture.
Person Overboard Drill
• At least one person should do nothing but watch and point towards the person
(object) in the water. This is very important because in even medium seas it can be very
easy to lose sight of the person (object). The pointer/watcher should keep one arm
extended and pointing towards the person.
• If there is time, throw the person overboard a floating cushion or life ring to use while the
boat is maneuvering to return. Throw it up wind of the person and close but don‟t hit the
person.
• If sailing, the sails should be dropped or reduced so as to give greater boat control.
• To give better control, the person (cushion) should be approached so that the boat is
moving directly into the wind and waves (wind and waves are almost always from the same
direction). If the wind and waves are from different directions, head into the one that is
strongest.
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Captain Charlie's
• Bring the boat carefully along side the person, the boat should be practically standing still
when near the person. Don‟t get so close that you hit the person. Let them swim a little.
When the person gets close, put the engine in neutral or stop it (remember that there is a
dangerous propeller spinning down there).
• Tossing a line and pulling the person to the boat can help.
• Place the ladder at the last moment (ladders placed to early may get ripped off the moving
boat by water). If your boat is boarded from the rear (stern), allow the boat to slowly drift
forward until the person can get to the stern.
• Unless the person in the water urgently requires assistance, no one else should join them
(use a boat hook to recover cushions and such). Additional persons in the water almost
always add to the problem. If the parents and captain agree that an additional person in the
water will improve safety, an exception should be made for small children. Choose the
person who will join the child in the water (should they fall off) before you leave the dock.
The person who will join the child in the water must wear a life preserver.
• In some cases it may make more sense to use the boat‟s dinghy for the recovery. Don‟t try
this unless you have tried the above method first. In open water, the less people off the
boat the better.
Anchoring Checklist
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•
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•
Use proper anchoring gear.
Select an anchorage with good holding.
Work out some hand signals to communicate between the persons at the bow and wheel.
Select a spot that will not cause you to interfere with others.
Be sure to give enough scope.
Use the same number of anchor lines as the boats around you.
Don‟t drop anchor and chain rapidly so that it ends up in a pile on the bottom.
Let wind and current gently move the boat and, once there is enough scope, set the anchor
by applying increasing tension to the line.
Boating 101
Notes
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About the Author
In no particular order, Charles “Captain Charlie” Vickroy
Balch has been a bartender, chef, sailing instructor, ship’s
captain, TV camera operator, mental health specialist,
priest, welder, computer programmer, professor and
systems consultant. If you are reading this he has also
been paid as a writer.
Charles also collects licenses, certificates and degrees.
He has many. He is a member of several yacht clubs.
In his spare time, Charlie likes to meet people; cruise the
Caribbean and South America (previously single handed
but now with his wife, Alex); and squeeze bituminous coal
into diamonds.
Charlie’s home base has been moving a lot. He left the
islands to live in Denmark for a bit but is now in the New
Orleans area.
Charlie can be reached at [email protected]. His home
page, http://charlie.balch.org, has additional personal
information and on-line copies of the logs he kept on
various trips through the Caribbean.