Walking on the Isle of Mull
1. Walk: Burg and the Fossil Tree
Grade: Hard
Distance: 10 miles, allow at least 6 hours for the return trip. Check tide times before setting out.
Terrain: Vehicle track followed by rough, rugged, narrow path including descent of an iron ladder
Starting point: NTS carpark at Tiroran, reached by a side road from the the B8035 ‘scenic route’
Burg was one of the first properties to come into the care of the National Trust for Scotland.
Originally run as an experimental farm it is now a protected area, providing great habitats for golden
eagles, the rare Slender Scotch Burnet Moth and the diversity of plants in its beautiful coastal
grasslands. The walk leads west from Tiroran along the coast of the Ardmeanach peninsula passing
ruined townships and spectacular views, Burg farm and an Iron Age dun, then continues below steep
cliffs with several waterfalls, finally descending to cross a rocky beach (inaccessible at the highest
tides) to find the imprint of an ancient tree preserved within an old lava flow. Look out for feral
goats around here! Return by the same route. A leaflet providing more details on the wildlife,
history and landscape can be picked up at the car park.
2. Walk: Shiaba
Grade: Medium
Distance: 4 miles there and back. Allow 2-3 hours for the return trip.
Terrain: Rough track and undulating moorland boggy in places.
Starting point: Turn off the A849 just east of Bunessan, taking the minor road past Loch Assapol,
continuing along rough track for another 1.5 miles to small parking area with interpretation panel.
Leave the car and take the left hand track (marked with red arrow) past the houses at Scoor. Keep
left through a gate, climbing uphill to go through another gate. Pass to the right of the old stone
sheep fank and cross a stile. The path peters out in places, but aim towards a firebreak in the forest
facing you, the ground drops away and a stony path reappears. Turn right on this path keeping the
forest edge to your left. You will soon see the ruins of the deserted township of Shiaba ahead.
Explore these ruined buildings, which include a schoolhouse and a mill, and enjoy the spectacular
views towards the cliffs of Carsaig and the islands of Colonsay, Jura and Islay. A good vantage point
to watch for soaring eagles or to scan the sea for marine mammals passing below! Return by the
same route.
3. Walk: Tireragan and Traigh Gheal
Grade: Medium-Hard (depending on choice of route)
Distance: Up to 6 miles, 1-5 hours (variety of linear or circular routes)
Terrain: Very boggy paths, often overgrown – you will get wet and muddy but it’s worth it!
Starting point: Take the minor road from Fionnphort past Fidden towards Knockvologan farm.
There is a small parking area on the left just before farm buildings. if you reach a gate across the
road you’ve gone too far. The walks begin at a gate between the barns where there is an
interpretation panel and a leaflet dispenser. A wide track heads across between fields to another
gate. After this take the path heading to the right across heather moorland towards a gate and
ladder stile. This marks the entrance to Tireragan nature reserve, managed by the charity Highland
Renewal with the aim of restoring native woodland and other habitats. If you look carefully you will
see stone waymarkers with carved arrows at path junctions. For a short walk head up the hill (Torr
Fada) for lovely wide views across to the hills of Mull and Iona. A circular walk can be made by
following this path along the ridge and back down to the right through the woodlands. An optional
side route explores deeper into the woods to discover a huge ancient oak tree. For a longer walk,
either of these routes can be followed southwestwards passing the abandoned township of
Tireragan and continuing to the beautiful secluded sandy beach of Traigh Gheal. The walks leaflet
and plenty of other information can also be downloaded from the Highland Renewal website.
Wildlife is abundant whichever route you choose!
4. Walk: Erraid
Grade: Medium
Distance: 4 miles (with optional extension for a circular route). Allow at least 2 hours.
Terrain: Stony track, tidal sands, muddy paths (and rocky boggy moorland optional!).
Starting point: Take the minor road from Fionnphort past Fidden towards Knockvologan farm.
There may be room to park at the very end of the tarmac road, or you can use the parking area for
Tireragan and walk the half mile uphill along the road instead. Once at the farm, follow the stony
track downhill towards the beach. Turn right and follow the shore around to the tidal sands
separating Erraid from Mull. Aim to cross an hour or so after high tide to give plenty of time for
exploring without getting cut off! Head north on the sand and follow it around the corner to the
left. Once on the grass, go past a white cottage, sculpture and boat shed and then pick up a track
heading up from the next beach to the row of cottages, once a lighthouse shore station, and now
part of the Findhorn community. Climb over a stile and walk along below the vegetable gardens,
turning left at the end to head up the hill on a rough path through a gate. The old quarry here
provided stone for Skerryvore and Dubh Artach lighthouses, both of which can be seen from the
small white observatory building on a clear day. Turn left up a path and zigzag up stone steps to
reach the observatory. Return by the same route, or if you’re feeling more adventurous and have a
good map you could head west to visit a seal colony or south to the top of Cnoc Mor and onwards to
a lovely sandy beach. From there it is possible to head northwestwards across the boggy middle of
the island to return to the tidal sands.
5. Walk: Market Bay
Grade: Easy-Medium
Distance: 3.5 miles there and back. 1.5 hours plus time on the beach!
Terrain: Track with some boardwalks followed by boggy path (you will need waterproof footwear).
Starting point: There is a small parking area at the top of the track to Camas (driving along the A849
from Bunessan look out for the green shed on the right after passing a garage on the left). Cross the
wide footbridge by the shed, go through the gate and follow the stony track between the fields of
Ardfenaig Farm. The track narrows, becomes grassy and slopes slightly downhill to go through
another gate and over a wide footbridge. Continue along the track across a flat expanse of peat bog,
until the track begins to climb again and a wall appears on the right. Look for a waymarker pointing
left beside a small pond and head towards the dip in the hillside, passing a large boulder. Follow the
rough path through some scrubby trees, keeping the outcrop of rock on your right. Walk straight
along the rough boggy path (watch out for a few deep muddy patches!) until you reach grassy sand
dunes and island views ahead. Look out for stunted juniper bushes clinging to the slopes, sand
martins nesting in holes in the bank to your left and a variety of flowers in the summer. Continue
onto the expanse of sand it is possible to access another beach to the east by walking on the sand
around the rocks at low tide, or climbing across the hillslope in between the bays. Return by the
same route.
6. Walk: Tormore Quarry
Grade: Easy-Medium
Distance: 1-2 miles, 1-1.5 hours
Terrain: Stony tracks, grassy slopes, narrow rocky/boggy paths
Starting point: Fionnphort village. To reach the quarry, either head east along the main road out of
the village and turn left up the road which becomes a track up the hill past Bruach Mhor…or go
down through the houses and follow the waymakers up the grassy slope past the green shed to
reach the same track, which leads into the upper quarry where you will find an interpretation panel.
Make your way carefully down the stone steps and follow the track past a few houses towards the
old pier. To avoid the steps you can return to the junction in the track and take the lower fork down
the hill. Stone for Iona Abbey and many other buildings and bridges has been quarried here. You
are above the safe anchorage known as Bull Hole, and Eilean nam Ban, where Columba is said to
have banished women from Iona. From here you can either return the same way or for a circular
walk, turn left at the waymarker opposite a modern house on the right and walk up the grassy slope
heading for the rock face opposite. Follow the waymarkers and worn path up a steep gully and
around the coast to return to Fionnphort beach with its large split boulder, then up the slope to the
village. More detailed directions can be found in the ROMHC guidebook.
7. Walk: Ben More (for further Ben More walking suggestions see end of this document)
Grade: Hard
Distance: 6 miles
Terrain: Moorland often wet and boggy followed by rocky and rugged mountain upland with
associated scree.
Starting point: Dhiseag (About 8 miles from Salen on the B8035).
Having parked safely on the grass, start on foot heading up the path behind the house and then
following the bank of the Abhainn Dhiseig. At about 650m the path comes onto a stony ridge and
the gradient steepens as you head onto the eastern spur of Coire nam Fuaran. At all times beware of
the step ground to north, south and east. The summit cairn and small shelter is at the north eastern
end of Chioch ridge. If it is a clear day enjoy the panoramic views north to the outer Hebrides, south
to Jura and south west towards Northern Ireland. To return downwards follow your previous route
8. Walk: Treshnish Head
Grade: Hard
Distance: 6 miles
Terrain: farm tracks, moorland raised beach and public roads.
Starting point: Old quarry on the B8073 (NM361485) 2 miles southwards beyond Calgary. Once
parked up and your picnic on your back head back on the main road until you see the sign for
Treshnish. Please note that it is requested that dogs are kept on leads on this walk during the
lambing and birdnesting seasons. Follow the signs along the farm road and around the farm
buildings to Haunn. After the traditional cottage of Haunn, pass through two more gates
before cutting leftwards down towards the coast across a steep slope; the rocky cliff over to
the right is the site of an iron-age dun or fort. At this point the farm track ends, but continue
along the raised beach following what is largely a sheep track until the path crosses a burn
erupting from a steep ravine above. After another 300 metres bear left beside what remains
of a drystone dyke; the cliffs above here relent and there is a trickling waterfall. The path which is indistinct - climbs up to the left of the fall in a series of zigzags. After levelling off,
the path leads on to cross a plank bridge to the evocative ruins of Crackaig, whose
population was depleted by typhoid and not as the norm on Mull, by the clearances.The
path leads away to the right and re-crosses the stream to reach the remains of a second
village, Glac Gugairidh. From here the path continues climbing gently across the moor,
which is very boggy in places. The route is fairly indistinct but there is a marker post.
Eventually a white house, the old school house, comes into view. Follow the marked path
around to the right of this before joining the access track. Follow the track to the public
road, turning left and following the tarmac for about a mile and half back to the start.
9. Walk: Ulva - Woodland walk
Grade: Medium
Distance: 3 miles
Terrain: Starting point: the Boathouse .
Once you have managed to pull yourself away from the Boathouse, a fatal mistake is to stop there
first, due to the lovely local food produced, including yummy cakes, you will come upon Sheila's
Cottage, a reconstructed traditional croft house worth popping into, probably best on the way back.
Follow the signage towards the church which will take you past the Old Manse, both were designed
by Thomas Telford and built around 1827. At the church turn left through the trees onto what is
known as the 'Minister's road. Follow onwards through the deer gate and out onto open moorland
and heather until you reach the farm track which heads off right, to the Isle of Gometra, and left,
back towards Ulva House. As you enter into the woodlands,firstly you will come upon the island's
water supply on your right, and at the bottom of the hill and at a junction, the farm steadings. Taking
the right hand turn at the junction, will lead you past the cottages and farm buildings of Bracadale
and on the left hand side, Ulva House. Bothwell and Johnston in 1773, stayed in the section of the
farm buildings with the round pillars. Ulva House is not as it would have been, as it was rebuilt as the
result of a fire in the 1950's.
Follow the track and signs back to the Boathouse passing through the Ferry field, with fine
views of Ben More opening up as you near the ferry. If you so wish, and it is hard to resist,
another cup of tea and cake welcomes you at the Boathouse
10. Walk: S'Airde Beinn
Grade: Medium
Distance: 2 miles
Terrain: Boggy moorland through heather with rock and stone underfoot on the top.
Starting point: From Tobermory, follow the B8073 Dervaig road for about 3 miles. Park up near the
roadside ruined cottage ensuring to leave the passing place free, there is parking in a roadside
quarry about 100m on the Tobermory side of the deserted cottage.
Cross over a stile and follow the path leading slightly left up the hill crossing over bracken first and as
you head higher, over relatively rough boggy moorland.
You will soon see the volcanic hill of 'S Airde Beinn ahead of you. 60 million years ago, Mull
was at the height of a period of volcanic activity that also formed the columns at Staffa and
elsewhere on the coast. Go through a gate and continue up the path. This section is often
very boggy.
When the path forks, keep straight ahead, the path to the right is the return route. Now the steepest
section leads to the top of the hill. From the top keep left to follow the edge of the crater all the way
round. There are excellent views in all directions. At the dip before the final rise that would bring
you back to the start of the circuit, cross the outflow of the lake and follow the faint path down to
the right following the stream. The path is rocky in places and keeps to the right of the stone wall.
Eventually it curves right and rejoins the outward path down to the start.
We recommend that you use some of the sources below to get a more detailed route plan but also
takes the relevant OS map with you.
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NTS Burg leaflet (2009)
Ross of Mull Historical Centre ‘Discover the Ross’ series of guidebooks (2003
continually updated)
Hallewell pocket walking guides ‘Isle of Mull, Coll and Tiree, including Iona and Ulva’
by Paul Williams (2003 updated 2007)
Cicerone guide ‘Walking on the Isle of Mull (Ulva, Gometra, Iona and Erraid)’ by Terry
Marsh (2011)
Walk Highlands web site (continually updated)
http://www.walkhighlands.co.uk/mull/
Walking in South Mull and Iona by Olive Brown and Jean Whittaker (1987, 8 th edition
revised 2005).
Walking in North Mull by Olive Brown and Jean Whittaker (1987, 8th edition revised
2005).
Ben More
Ben More – Mull’s Highest Mountain
Ben more, at 3169’ (996 m) is the highest mountain in the Isle of Mull and is the island’s only Munro,
a mountain over 3000’ in height. The Gaelic name for Ben More is “A’ Bheinn Mhòr, the Great
Mountain as befits its lofty status. Ben more has a unique status. Since the bridge to Skye was built,
it is now the only Munro that requires boat travel from the mainland to reach it. For this reason,
many Munroists “do” it as their final Munro.
The time-honoured approach to Ben More and almost certainly the easiest way up is from Dhiseig
near Gribun on the south side of Loch na Keal. This is easily reached from Salen – a distance of about
8 miles / 12 kms. Park your car on the large grassy area on the sea side of the road – the location
isn’t signposted but it is obvious when you get there. Follow the track that runs uphill on the
opposite side of the road. It runs up to the cottage called Dhiseig, but instead of going to the house,
bear right and simply follow the well worn path.
For most of the way, it is simple slog uphill. In places the path is quite muddy, in other parts it is
rocky, especially on the summit section where there is a lot of scree, but it is well defined all the way
up the hill. It goes without saying that proper footwear is essential.
As you make your way uphill, the view unfolds and on a clear day, a tremendous vista opens up. The
angle of the slope doesn’t change much until the summit section is reached. Just before this point,
you will notice that the rock looks “platy” and brittle, rather different from the rock that composes
most of the hill. This is the type of rock that geologists call “Benmoreite”, a form of basalt. As you
approach the final section, the angle steepens, but it is still a straightforward walk. Follow the path
to the summit where you will find a circular cairn. Allow 3 hours for the walk up – a fit person can do
it in a lot less, but you want to take your time and enjoy the view!
To the west can be seen the long peninsula of Brolass and the Ross of Mull stretching out, with Loch
Scridain to its north and the peninsula of Ardmeanach with its famous fossil tree to the north again.
Iona lies in the distance.
To the East one can easily see many of the mainland peaks on a good day and the island of Jura with
its famous “Paps” is visible to the south east. Further round to the north west one can see the
islands of Coll, Tiree, the Treshnish Isles and the Small Isles of Rum, Canna, and Eigg. The Cuillins of
Skye will be visible to the north.
The ridge connecting Ben More to its neighbouring peak A’Chioch, is narrow and steep. It is not as
difficult as the Aonach Eagach or Liathach, but it does demand care and in snowy conditions is one
only for the experts. The ordinary hillwalking visitor is advised to descend the way that they came
up. It is possible to drop down on the Glen More side but this leaves you a long way from your
starting point!
Note carefully: the basaltic rock at the summit is magnetic and will affect a compass. As long as you
hold it clear of the rocks, it should be OK. Also remember that Ben More is a 3169’ mountain and
the weather can change at any time. Be prepared and well equipped – even on a hot summer’s day,
the weather can rapidly deteriorate.
Enjoy your day up Ben More!