Volume 20 Spring 2005 Newsletter of the Sherburne County Historical Society Big Lake: Vacation with a Capital V! By Bobbie Scott Big Lake as a vacation destination? Today it’s hard to imagine—most of us travel long distances regularly for both work and play, and a trip to the Twin Cities is routine. But go back a hundred years and there was vacation traffic the other direction: people from the Twin Cities came to Big Lake for fun and entertainment. Big Lake’s accessibility to the Cities by train and, from the early 1920s, by paved road, made Big Lake a convenient destination for a day in the country. And the lake’s potential for recreation was exploited early on. From the earliest days when the Minnesota Territory was opened for settlement in 1849, Big Lake lay on a well-traveled route from the Twin Cities to the north and west—from the Red River Ox Cart Trail and the Military Road to the coming of the railroad in the 1860s and finally the construction of the Jefferson Highway, now known as Highway 10. When Joseph Brown came to Big Lake, then known as Humboldt, in the late 1840s, he quickly built a hotel that was used by Red River cart drivers, among others. While the hotel building itself burned several times, the Brown family rebuilt and expanded. The Brown family was prominent in local affairs and Brown’s Hotel was an institution in Big Lake until the 1950s when Joseph’s granddaughters died, the hotel was razed, and Lake Street was extended north of Highway 10. Joseph’s son N. D. Brown ran the hotel after his father’s death, but he also worked for the railroad. It was N. D.’s brother George who really started the resort business in Big Lake with his decision in 1909 to plat his lakeside property “with the intention of making Big Lake a popular summer resort” (Monticello Times, 17 June 1909). The ad for these lots boasted of “suburban acres for sale,” not a phrase most of us would probably associate with early twentieth-century Big Lake! But once George took the plunge, the community followed along eagerly. In response to the proposed sale of these lakeshore lots, the citizens of Big Lake voted to spend $3,000 to buy some of the lots and build a picnic grounds and baseball diamond. George Brown, front left, and brother N. D., back right, with other Brown family members at a picnic. The ad below appeared in the Sherburne County Star News in 1909. Some “enterprising young men” formed a committee to negotiate the price of the lots and the Big Lake Park Association was formed. It didn’t take them long to make their mark, and the local newspaper of the time, the Big Lake Wave, was a strong booster of Big Lake’s resort aspirations. By 1910 the newspaper was running a column in the summer under the heading “Lake News.” An August 1910 column reported that: Three auto loads of Minneapolis pleasure-seekers picnicked at Big Lake, Sunday. Harry W. Miller of Minneapolis...accompanied by his wife, spent Sunday at “Beautiful Big Lake”, enjoying its splendid beauties and pleasant breezes. Three Roggatz brothers and their families from the Flour City spent a couple of days, the first of the week, at our Beautiful Big Lake. They think this is certainly the place for an outing from the City. The Park Association must have been made up of Vacation...Cont. on Page 4 Vacation...Cont. from p. 1. energetic individuals. In 1911, just two years after their inception, the Park Association sponsored at least three major events at the park—the annual MinnesotaIowa picnic in June, the July 4th celebration, and a special picnic in August featuring Governor Eberhart as the guest speaker. In their quest to attract the masses to this event, they might have gone a bit overboard in their advertising: “The people of Sherburne, Wright and Anoka counties in particular and of other localities and states in general, are urgently invited to take part in one of the most interesting events ever held in the Northwest. DON’T MISS IT.” This event was covered by the Minneapolis Sunday Journal, which was then quoted in the Big Lake Wave on August 18, 1911. After describing the governor’s speech (on “Education and the Consolidation of Schools”) and the events of the day, the paper noted that Big Lake was located on the Great Northern and Northern Pacific railroads only 35 miles from Minneapolis and that it was “a most beautiful place” with a “splendid” lake. It went on to say that Big Lake “is fast becoming a popular place for summer residents and many summer cottages have been built. Sites for more have been laid out and indications are that the number of cottages erected will increase rapidly in the near future. The park association has been holding a series of entertainments to create interest in the natural facilities possessed by Big Lake as a summer resort, and Governor’s day, today, was in line with this policy.” By 1920 the resort industry was well developed and by 1929 the Star News could report that the park comprised over 10 acres of wooded land on the shores of Big Lake with “every form of recreation or amusement” represented for both old and young including a dancing pavilion, a bathing beach, a skating rink, and even a merry-go-round and pony track. By the early 1920s the facilities at the lake needed to be expanded to serve the growing number of visitors. The Star News reported in May 1921 that George Brown had built a new bath house on the lakeshore that could hold 350 people: “This is one of the most needed improvements and is certainly appreciated by the Big Lake people. Mr. Brown also has a new line of fine boats to accommodate 4 Historically Speaking the people.” The population of the village of Big Lake in 1920 was only 363, so there must have been considerable numbers of day trippers to spur the need for larger facilities. Many of those day visitors came up from the Cities for company picnics at the amusement park. The Northern Pacific Railroad, for example, held its annual employee picnic in Big Lake for many years starting in 1915. In 1916 the program for the event advertised that the railroad would provide a special train and bring employees and their families out for a day filled with activities—baseball, swimming, fishing, foot races with prizes, events for women and children, music and dancing, and free motorboat rides. In 1921 the railroad sold about 1,500 tickets for the event. The event was still being held in 1931, when the program advertised, among other things, that the St. Paul Chapter of the American Red Cross would be providing “handsome and competent life guards” for the day. The railroad wasn’t the only company to hold its employee picnic in Big Lake. In a one-week period in 1927 the park hosted three separate employee picnics including the railroad (employees and officials at separate events) and the Minneapolis Meat Dealers Association. The Sherburne County Farm Bureau picnic was also held there many times, including in 1927 when nearly 5,000 people attended! The people who came to Big Lake for a day, a week, or a summer at the lake had a huge impact on the community. Undated photo of people swimming and boating in Big Lake. Big Lake wasn’t alone in selling itself as a resort community. Park Rapids, South Haven, Buffalo, Onamia, Pine River, Duluth, Pelican Lake, Grand Marais—all were advertising themselves in the Minneapolis newspapers as vacation spots in the 1920s. Among those places advertising in the Minneapolis Sunday Tribune in 1922 was at least one Big Lake destination, the Cottage Inn. Located along the Jefferson Highway (now Highway 10), the Cottage Inn was operated by Vernon and Hazel Roman. The ad boasted of their wonderful chicken dinners, but those who remember the place rave about Hazel’s strawberry pie as well. In 1922 when this ad appeared, many roads in the state had yet to be paved so the paved Jefferson Highway stood out. It was a great advantage to be able to boast how easy it was to reach Big Lake—no getting stuck in the mud and not too far from the Cities for those early automobiles. Several other restaurants popped up along the Jefferson Highway in Big Lake. Many still remember the Big Lake Café run by George Meeker. Keith Hunt, a former Big Lake resident, remembered working for Mr. Meeker in the 1930s: “three bucks a 72 hour week and meal. Two afternoons off from 2:00 to 5:00; toughest job I ever had, including a summer on the railroad gang.” N. D. Brown died in 1932, but Brown’s Hotel continued to flourish and by the 1920s was advertising itself as “a pleasant home for tourists” only 39 miles from Minneapolis. Samuel Rank, former publisher of the Big Lake Wave, wrote at N.D.’s death that “All his life he was more or less connected with the development of his home town, now a live, wide-awake point for tourists.” By the 1930s, N.D.’s daughters Mae and Jessie were running Brown’s Hotel. Many a Big Lake teenager got early work experience helping to prepare and clean up after Sunday dinner at Brown’s. According to Lois Keen (N.D. Brown’s great-granddaughter), people came in from St. Cloud and Minneapolis for a Sunday dinner of roast beef, mashed potatoes, gravy, creamed peas, a slice of lettuce with French dressing, homemade rolls, dessert and coffee. Along with the hotel and the roadside eateries, gas stations were an important part of Big Lake’s downtown landscape and tourism economy. With so many people passing through there was a demand for both gasoline and garages that could do car repairs. Keith Hunt worked one summer at the Pure Oil station a block east of Meeker’s Café—he was paid 15 cents an hour and got part-time winter work. According to him, the “high point was always the summer, when the lake cottage people came for the season. Grocers in the village delivered orders to the cottages first thing in the morning, and Frank Kolbinger...would come wheeling in for gas at 7:30 in the morning, his Model A delivery truck loaded with stuff to deliver to cottages full of pretty girls and their good lookin’ brothers. Some of the girls would show up later at the gas stations we locals worked, needing air in their bike tires. In later years, they told us they’d let the air out of the tires a block before they got to the station of their choice. Tough duty.” By the early 1940s the Park Association had disbanded and everything at the park was gone except for the dance pavilion. But there were still cabins available for tourists to rent. A postcard written in 1942 from a vacationer in Big Lake to friends in Minneapolis began “This is a Vacation with a capital V! Our host and hostess and their daughter are doing everything for our pleasure. They have a lovely home and a unique café—a dining car.” Clearly a satisfied customer! The “paved highway” that made Big Lake an easy destination. The closest building on the left is one of the local eateries. Notice the car parked in front of it—they didn’t go as far or as fast as ours do! But change came to Big Lake and today almost every physical trace of the resort businesses that were so important to the local economy in the early twentieth century have been erased. As we drive through Big Lake today, we can only imagine the dances at the pavilion that drew the college crowd from the University of Minnesota, or the picnic crowds that filled the lakeside park, or the hordes of summer people that arrived each year to stay at the cottages on the lake. The community’s rich past lives on in photographs and in people’s memories, as well as in books compiled by history-minded residents such as Rod Hunt’s A Boy’s Guide to Big Lake Minnesota and Other Stuff and the Big Lake Historical Society’s book History of Big Lake. If you have memories or photographs of Big Lake’s resort years, please contact us. We would like to record these memories before they are lost to future generations. Spring 2005 5
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