Romantic Blouse You need • 1 blouse pattern of your choice • Cotton batiste in natural white, amount of fabric and notions as given on the pattern envelope • 2 spools sewing thread in natural white • Natural white machine embroidery thread • Silver metallic machine embroidery thread • Machine embroidery bobbin thread • Embroidery floss in off white and natural white • Off white tulle base fabric for embroidered lace edging designs • Ultra Solvy Water Soluble stabilizer for the embroidered lace edging • Water-soluble embroidery stabilizer to place under embellishment stitching • Approx. 1.50 m (60”) ecru-white lace edging, 3 cm (1 1/4 inch) wide to ruffle in ruffler • Pfaff creative Bobbin Case • Pintuck foot, 9 mm • Candlewicking foot with IDT • Twin needle, 1.6 mm • Machine needle for metallic thread • Pfaff Multi-format Embroidery cd Endless Lace 385 • Pfaff Endless Embroidery Hoop 100 x 180 mm • Fabric marking pen 1 Preparation and cutting Starch the cotton batiste, let it dry, and press. Cut out the blouse pieces following the sewing pattern instructions. Finish edges of all seam allowances with narrow zigzag or with a serger. Check the length of the blouse and the length of the sleeves. Trim off any hem allowance plus 9 cm (3 1/2”) to allow for the endless lace edging on the blouse hem and sleeve hem. Stitch 1 side seam so that you will be adding the embellishment stitching and lace to the entire blouse hem edge, then stitch the other side seam after the lace has been stitched to the bottom edge of the blouse. 2 Embroidered lace edging Measure around the bottom edge of the blouse and the bottom edge of the sleeves, add the measurements and cut a strip of tulle and water soluble stabilizer to this length plus 30cm (12”). Hoop the tulle with the water soluble stabilizer underneath in the Pfaff Endless Embroidery Hoop following the instructions that came with the hoop. Thread with natural white embroidery thread on the top and in the bobbin. Embroider design 6 from the Pfaff Endless Lace Collection moving the strip of tulle and stabilizer in the Endless Hoop using the connecting point to match the designs until the strip of tulle is totally embroidered. • Place the fabric under the presser foot with the right side down so the bobbin thread will be on the right side. • Place water soluble stabilizer on the top if needed. Tip: Before you begin stitching on your blouse, test each stitch on a scrap of your fabric and adjust the thread tension, if needed. Pull thread ends to the wrong side and hide them in the stitching. • With the fabric right side down. Begin the first row of bobbin work on the lower edge of the blouse, 1 cm (3/8 inch) from the cut edge. Stitch all following rows of stitching spaced a presser-foot width from the previous row of stitching • Stitch the rows of bobbin work on the sleeve edges in the same manner, but after the second row, leave a wider space for the ruffles. 4 Candlewicking Stitches At www.pfaff.com you’ll find beautiful candlewicking stitches to download to your Pfaff creative 2170 / 2144 / 2140 sewing machine or you can enter a stitch sequence to create a candlewicking stitch. To program a Candlewicking French Knot on any programmable Pfaff: 1. Choose sewing sequence and an empty memory. 2. Select a zigzag, width 2.0, length 0.0. 3. Enter this zigzag stitch seven times. 4. Select a straight stitch length 1.5-2.5 (Try different lengths. The longer the stitch length, the further apart the Candlewicking knots will be spaced. 5. Enter this straight stitch 2 times. 6. Save the stitch sequence. 3 Bobbin work embellishment with the Pfaff creative Bobbin Case Stitch beautiful textured stitch embellishment with the Pfaff creative Bobbin Case. The secret lies in the special bobbin case and in heavier threads which are wound on the bobbin. The bobbin side of the stitch becomes a decorative embellishment. • Thread your Pfaff sewing machine with machine embroidery thread as the upper thread. Use the recommended needle size for your fabric. Attach presser foot 2/2A or 8. • Wind the bobbin with embroidery floss. Place the bobbin in the Pfaff creative bobbin case and adjust tension as needed so the floss pulls freely. Consult the instructions that came with the bobbin case for additional instruction. • Select your favorite open decorative stitches. Do not use stitches with satin stitch or multiple reverse stitches. Set your machine for sew slow speed. 7. Attach the Candlewicking foot and sew out your Candlewicking sequence. Embellishing with the Candlewicking Foot Stitch a row of Candlewicking stitches along the edge of the blouse and the sleeves between the rows of bobbin work. • Place Ultra Solvy water-soluble stabilizer under the fabric. • Thread your Pfaff sewing machine with machine embroidery thread as the upper thread and embroidery bobbin thread. Use the recommended needle size for your fabric. Tip: If you plan on using metallic machine embroidery thread as shown in the picture, use a machine needle for metallic threads. This needle has a larger eye so the metallic thread glides through easily. • Attach the Candlewicking Foot. It has a deep groove on the underside so it glides over the build up of thread in the Candlewicking stitches. • Engage the IDT. • Select the desired stitch (either a programmed stitch or a downloaded stitch). • Place the fabric right side up and begin stitching rows of candlewicking. 5 Making ruffles with the adjustable Ruffler Attachment Ruffle purchased flat lace then stitch the ruffle between the rows of bobbin work. The Ruffler Attachment automatically pleats small tucks in lace and fabric with adjustable spacing. • Attach the Ruffler to your machine following the instructions included with the ruffler. • Thread your Pfaff sewing machine with sewing thread on top and in the bobbin. • Select a center needle straight stitch, length 2.5. Set the lever on the ruffler lever to the number 6. The Ruffler will now pleat a small tuck every 6th stitch. The fullness of the tucks can be adjusted with the screw. Turn the screw as far to the right as possible for the fullest tucks. • Lay the lace which is to be ruffled in the feed slit between the black metal pieces. • Stitch keeping the lace edge even with the right edge of the guide. • Use the fabric marker to draw the ruffle placement lines on the sleeves using the picture as a guide. These lines should mark the right edges of the ruffles. • Cut the gathered ruffle into 4 pieces to match the widths of the sleeves. With straight stitch, stitch the ruffles to the sleeves, stitching on the ruffle stitching. 6 Pintuck foot with decorative stitch guide Stitch pintucks perfectly spaced 5 mm or 11 mm ( 3/16” or 7/16”) apart placing the previous pin tuck in the side stitch guide as you sew. Stitch a decorative stitch between the pintucks sewn 11mm (7/16”) apart. • Use a fabric marking pen to mark a line for the first pintuck above the elbow on each sleeve piece. • Put in the 1.6 mm twin needle. Thread the machine with natural white sewing thread top and bobbin. Look in your machine manual for twin needle threading instructions. • Select straight stitch, length 2.0 mm. Tip: First stitch a test on a scrap of your fabric. Increase the upper thread tension to make the tuck more prominent. • Stitch the first tuck along the marked line. Tip: After completing each tuck, press the fabric smooth close to the edge of the tuck to prevent puckering. • Place the first tuck in the 5mm right guide on the foot and stitch a second tuck next to the first. Repeat for a third tuck. • Stitch the next tuck at the 11mm right guide spacing, followed by 2 more tucks at the 5mm spacing. • Thread your Pfaff sewing machine with machine embroidery thread, place a strip of water soluble stabilizer under the 11 mm wide space between the tucks and stitch the decorative stitch of your choice in the 11mm wide space between the sets of tucks. The tucks will be in the guide grooves on the Pintuck Foot with Decorative Stitch Guide. We used stitch 115 on the Pfaff creative 2170. 7 Decorative ties – quickly made with Fasturn Tubes from INSPIRA Add décorative narrow tube ties to the neck of any blouse. The Fasturn Tube Turner makes it easy. • Cut 2 strips of fabric or lace 5cm (2”) wide and 50cm (20”) long • Fold the strips in half lengthwise right sides together and straight stitch the long edges together with a 6mm (1/4”) seam allowance. • Slide the metal Fasturn cylinder into the fabric tube, gathering the entire fabric tube onto the cylinder. • Place the end of the fabric tube over the end of the cylinder opening, so the opening is covered, and hold the fabric tautly in place. • Slide the turning wire into the cylinder. Twist the hook to the right through the fabric which is covering the end of the cylinder. • Slowly pull the turning wire back through the cylinder, pulling the fabric tube through the cylinder and turning it right side out. Repeat with the second tube. • Turn approx. 5 mm (a scant 1/4 inch) on each end of the turned fabric tube to the inside and sew. Stitch the ties at the neck edge of the blouse. 8 Sewing • Finish sewing the blouse following the instructions included with the sewing pattern.Sew the embroidered lace to the hem edges of the blouse and sleeves.
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