Romantic Blouse

Romantic
Blouse
You need
• 1 blouse pattern of your choice
• Cotton batiste in natural white, amount of fabric and notions as given on the pattern envelope
• 2 spools sewing thread in natural white
• Natural white machine embroidery thread
• Silver metallic machine embroidery thread
• Machine embroidery bobbin thread
• Embroidery floss in off white and natural white
• Off white tulle base fabric for embroidered
lace edging designs
• Ultra Solvy Water Soluble stabilizer for the
embroidered lace edging
• Water-soluble embroidery stabilizer to place
under embellishment stitching
• Approx. 1.50 m (60”) ecru-white lace edging, 3 cm (1 1/4 inch) wide to ruffle in ruffler
• Pfaff creative Bobbin Case
• Pintuck foot, 9 mm
• Candlewicking foot with IDT
• Twin needle, 1.6 mm
• Machine needle for metallic thread
• Pfaff Multi-format Embroidery cd Endless Lace 385
• Pfaff Endless Embroidery Hoop 100 x 180 mm
• Fabric marking pen
1 Preparation and cutting
Starch the cotton batiste, let it dry, and press.
Cut out the blouse pieces following the sewing
pattern instructions. Finish edges of all seam
allowances with narrow zigzag or with a serger.
Check the length of the blouse and the length of
the sleeves. Trim off any hem allowance plus 9 cm
(3 1/2”) to allow for the endless lace edging on
the blouse hem and sleeve hem. Stitch 1 side seam
so that you will be adding the embellishment
stitching and lace to the entire blouse hem edge,
then stitch the other side seam after the lace has
been stitched to the bottom edge of the blouse.
2 Embroidered lace edging
Measure around the bottom edge of the blouse
and the bottom edge of the sleeves, add the
measurements and cut a strip of tulle and water
soluble stabilizer to this length plus 30cm (12”). Hoop
the tulle with the water soluble stabilizer underneath
in the Pfaff Endless Embroidery Hoop following the
instructions that came with the hoop. Thread with
natural white embroidery thread on the top and
in the bobbin. Embroider design 6 from the Pfaff
Endless Lace Collection moving the strip of tulle and
stabilizer in the Endless Hoop using the connecting
point to match the designs until the strip of tulle is
totally embroidered.
• Place the fabric under the presser foot with the
right side down so the bobbin thread will be on
the right side.
• Place water soluble stabilizer on the top if needed.
Tip: Before you begin stitching on your blouse, test
each stitch on a scrap of your fabric and adjust the
thread tension, if needed. Pull thread ends to the
wrong side and hide them in the stitching.
• With the fabric right side down. Begin the first
row of bobbin work on the lower edge of the
blouse, 1 cm (3/8 inch) from the cut edge. Stitch all
following rows of stitching spaced a presser-foot
width from the previous row of stitching
• Stitch the rows of bobbin work on the sleeve
edges in the same manner, but after the second
row, leave a wider space for the ruffles.
4 Candlewicking Stitches
At www.pfaff.com you’ll find beautiful
candlewicking stitches to download to your
Pfaff creative 2170 / 2144 / 2140 sewing machine
or you can enter a stitch sequence to create a
candlewicking stitch.
To program a Candlewicking French Knot on any
programmable Pfaff:
1. Choose sewing sequence and an empty memory.
2. Select a zigzag, width 2.0, length 0.0.
3. Enter this zigzag stitch seven times.
4. Select a straight stitch length 1.5-2.5 (Try different
lengths. The longer the stitch length, the further
apart the Candlewicking knots will be spaced.
5. Enter this straight stitch 2 times.
6. Save the stitch sequence.
3 Bobbin work
embellishment with the
Pfaff creative Bobbin Case
Stitch beautiful textured stitch embellishment
with the Pfaff creative Bobbin Case. The secret lies
in the special bobbin case and in heavier threads
which are wound on the bobbin. The bobbin side
of the stitch becomes a decorative embellishment.
• Thread your Pfaff sewing machine with machine
embroidery thread as the upper thread. Use
the recommended needle size for your fabric.
Attach presser foot 2/2A or 8.
• Wind the bobbin with embroidery floss. Place
the bobbin in the Pfaff creative bobbin case and
adjust tension as needed so the floss pulls freely.
Consult the instructions that came with the
bobbin case for additional instruction.
• Select your favorite open decorative stitches. Do
not use stitches with satin stitch or multiple reverse
stitches. Set your machine for sew slow speed.
7. Attach the Candlewicking foot and sew out your
Candlewicking sequence.
Embellishing with the Candlewicking Foot
Stitch a row of Candlewicking stitches along the
edge of the blouse and the sleeves between the
rows of bobbin work.
• Place Ultra Solvy water-soluble stabilizer under
the fabric.
• Thread your Pfaff sewing machine with machine
embroidery thread as the upper thread and
embroidery bobbin thread. Use the recommended
needle size for your fabric. Tip: If you plan on using metallic machine embroidery
thread as shown in the picture, use a machine needle
for metallic threads. This needle has a larger eye so the
metallic thread glides through easily.
• Attach the Candlewicking Foot. It has a deep groove
on the underside so it glides over the build up of
thread in the Candlewicking stitches.
• Engage the IDT.
• Select the desired stitch (either a programmed
stitch or a downloaded stitch).
• Place the fabric right side up and begin stitching
rows of candlewicking.
5 Making ruffles with the
adjustable Ruffler Attachment
Ruffle purchased flat lace then stitch the ruffle
between the rows of bobbin work.
The Ruffler Attachment automatically pleats small
tucks in lace and fabric with adjustable spacing.
• Attach the Ruffler to your machine following the
instructions included with the ruffler.
• Thread your Pfaff sewing machine with sewing
thread on top and in the bobbin.
• Select a center needle straight stitch, length 2.5. Set
the lever on the ruffler lever to the number 6. The
Ruffler will now pleat a small tuck every 6th stitch.
The fullness of the tucks can be adjusted with the
screw. Turn the screw as far to the right as possible
for the fullest tucks.
• Lay the lace which is to be ruffled in the feed slit
between the black metal pieces.
• Stitch keeping the lace edge even with the right
edge of the guide.
• Use the fabric marker to draw the ruffle
placement lines on the sleeves using the picture
as a guide. These lines should mark the right
edges of the ruffles.
• Cut the gathered ruffle into 4 pieces to match the widths of the sleeves. With straight stitch,
stitch the ruffles to the sleeves, stitching on the
ruffle stitching.
6 Pintuck foot with decorative
stitch guide
Stitch pintucks perfectly spaced 5 mm or 11 mm
( 3/16” or 7/16”) apart placing the previous pin
tuck in the side stitch guide as you sew. Stitch a
decorative stitch between the pintucks sewn 11mm
(7/16”) apart.
• Use a fabric marking pen to mark a line for the first
pintuck above the elbow on each sleeve piece.
• Put in the 1.6 mm twin needle. Thread the
machine with natural white sewing thread top
and bobbin. Look in your machine manual for
twin needle threading instructions.
• Select straight stitch, length 2.0 mm.
Tip: First stitch a test on a scrap of your fabric.
Increase the upper thread tension to make the tuck
more prominent.
• Stitch the first tuck along the marked line.
Tip: After completing each tuck, press the fabric smooth
close to the edge of the tuck to prevent puckering.
• Place the first tuck in the 5mm right guide on the
foot and stitch a second tuck next to the first.
Repeat for a third tuck.
• Stitch the next tuck at the 11mm right guide spacing,
followed by 2 more tucks at the 5mm spacing.
• Thread your Pfaff sewing machine with machine
embroidery thread, place a strip of water soluble
stabilizer under the 11 mm wide space between
the tucks and stitch the decorative stitch of your
choice in the 11mm wide space between the sets
of tucks. The tucks will be in the guide grooves
on the Pintuck Foot with Decorative Stitch Guide.
We used stitch 115 on the Pfaff creative 2170.
7 Decorative ties
– quickly made with Fasturn Tubes from INSPIRA
Add décorative narrow tube ties to the neck of any
blouse. The Fasturn Tube Turner makes it easy.
• Cut 2 strips of fabric or lace 5cm (2”) wide and
50cm (20”) long
• Fold the strips in half lengthwise right sides
together and straight stitch the long edges
together with a 6mm (1/4”) seam allowance.
• Slide the metal Fasturn cylinder into the fabric tube,
gathering the entire fabric tube onto the cylinder.
• Place the end of the fabric tube over the end of
the cylinder opening, so the opening is covered,
and hold the fabric tautly in place.
• Slide the turning wire into the cylinder. Twist
the hook to the right through the fabric which is
covering the end of the cylinder.
• Slowly pull the turning wire back through the
cylinder, pulling the fabric tube through the
cylinder and turning it right side out. Repeat with
the second tube.
• Turn approx. 5 mm (a scant 1/4 inch) on each end
of the turned fabric tube to the inside and sew.
Stitch the ties at the neck edge of the blouse.
8 Sewing
• Finish sewing the blouse following the instructions
included with the sewing pattern.Sew the
embroidered lace to the hem edges of the blouse
and sleeves.