What is more these materials, apart from being extremely valid excipients (ACTIVE SURFACE AGENTS
FOR DETERGENTS - EMULSIFIERS FOR CREAMS), also act on their own as optimal functional
substances, thanks to a whole series of properties and to the characteristics of olive oil and hydrolyzed wheat
proteins (nutritive properties, restoring, soothing and delicate)
These new surface-active agents can be used to create a “totally natural” finished product which is entirely
based on these new substances, or alternatively, they can be included in existing formulae with mixtures of
other surface active agents to increase the pleasantness of the product but above all to diminish the degree
of aggressivity of other surface-active agents (they possess a far higher anti-irritation potency)
A BREAKTHROUGH IN COSMETICS
Kalichem Italia has formulated and PATENTED a group of new completely vegetable origin Surfactants,
using raw materials which are the most natural, genuine and simple possible:
OLIVE OIL AND HYDROLYZED WHEAT PROTEINS
These raw materials used in the food sector are the main ingredients forming the Mediterranean diet (wheat
is used to make bread) and applied in cosmetics as a base for creams and shampoos give the consumer the
assurance that it is using a simple and 100% natural product; non aggressive for the skin in that it does not
alter the hydrophilic film; not harmful to the environment in that it is a hundred per cent biodegradable.
Added to these are the surfactants formed from olive oil together with some amino acids instead of wheat
proteins
Olive Oil: is the most used oil with food, it is tastier, more genuine, more rich in vitamins and antioxidants.
It has been used very little in the cosmetics sector, possibly because the choice has fallen on less expensive
oils, however it has excellent emulsifying, softening, sebum restorer and soothing properties; therefore olive
oil is excellent with sensitive, dry, chapped skin in sun creams or body creams.
Hydrolyzed Wheat Proteins: has excellent properties for the skin, in fact it is often used in cosmetics pure
because of its excellent moisturizing effect, the abundant foam it forms and the capacity it has to lessen
irritation caused by Sodium Lauryl Sulphate.
Combining the best of both vegetable fatty acid sources and protein sources allows to achieve a new molecule
having some interesting interfacial properties making it an original vegetable derived surfactant
(Cf. figure1).
Olive Oil
Wheat Gluten
Vegetable derived fatty acids
Hydrolized Wheat Protein
Hydrophobic tail
Hydrophilic
head
Figure 1: Origin and vegetable derivation of Olivoil Glutamate
CHEMICAL STRUCTURE
The lipophilic part of Olive Oil
O
The hydrophilic part made
up of wheat polypeptides
R1
R
O
R - C - NH - CH - CO - NH - CH - C
OH
2. TESTS TO EVALUATE THE FOAM CAPACITY FOLLOWING SHAKING OR FALLING
Table 1: results of the foam test produced by falling.
SURFACTANT
Olivoil PCA
SLES
Height of foam
Height of foam
by falling
after 3 minutes
1,9 cm
2,5 cm
1,2 cm
1,3 cm
Height of foam
after 18 minutes
0,6 cm
0,7 cm
Aspect of
the foam
fine, creamy
compact
This table shows how Olivoil PCA produces a lower quantity of foam compared to SLES which in time
however is more stable. The type of foam produced is finer and creamier compared to the foam produced
by SLES.
Table 2: results of the foam test produced by shaking.
SURFACTANT
Olivoil PCA
SLES
Height of foam
Height of foam
Height of foam
Aspect of
following shaking
after 5 minutes
after 90 minutes
the foam
8 cm
10 cm
4,2 cm
5,5 cm
1 cm
0,6 cm
fine, creamy
compact
This table shows how Olivoil PCA produces a lower quantity of foam compared to SLES which in time
however is more stable. The type of foam produced is finer and creamier compared to the foam produced
by SLES.
IDENTIFICATION OF THE PRODUCT
CHEMICAL NAME:
Fatty acids of olive oil condensed with potassium salt pyroglutamic acid
INCI NAME:
Potassium Olivoyl PCA
ORIGIN:
Vegetable derivation
FUNCTION:
Moisturizing/Surfactant/Emollient
CATEGORY:
Functional active principles/Detergent
PHYSICO-CHEMICAL CHARACTERISTICS
ASPECT:
clear liquid
COLOUR:
colourless/straw yellow
ODOUR:
slight neutral
pH:
7,5 - 9
VISCOSITY:
< 500 mPas
PROTEIN NITROGEN:
1,2 – 1,6 %
ACTIVE SUBSTANCE:
26 – 28 %
MOLECULAR WEIGHT:
425,69 ca
VEHICLE:
Aqueous
PRESERVATIVE SYSTEM:
Phenonip
MICROBIOLOGICAL CHARACTERISTICS
Total microbic count:
< 100 UFC/g
RECOMMENDED DOSES
Products for skin care:
Detergent products:
1 – 6%
2 – 10%
n
The carboxyle group is salified with KOH
Figure 2: Chemical structure of the Olivoil Glutinate
2
11
APPLICATIONS
Olivoil PCA can be used wherever humectant and emollient functional active principles are required in
products for treatment of the skin and as a delicate surfactant which does not alter the balance of the horny
layer of the epidermis maintaining hydration intact, improving the sensorial characteristics of the detergent.
It can be used as a humectant in gels, tonics, lotions for the skin; the use of Olivoil PCA in these products
with an aqueous base which must remain transparent has the function of vectoring lipids even though the
formulation remains limpid which could not be inserted in any other way (unless by using dissolving agents
with known sticky effect on the skin).
WHY OLIVOIL ?
When formulating a cosmetic product there are three ingredients which may be damaging for the skin and
cause different ailments (intolerance, sensitisation, irritation, allergies).
Thery are:
• Preservatives
• Perfumes
• Emulsifiers or surfactants; they are indispensable for the production of most cosmetics (creams, cleansing
milks, shampoos, personal hygiene products, shower gels).
THE WAY TO USE THE PRODUCT
As the product is in an aqueous solution it is ready to be inserted in a cosmetic formulation; it does not
require pre-treatment (such as solubilization or heating).
We recommend adding it to the product at a temperature below 40°C.
Olivoil PCA must be inserted in the aqueous phase of the formulation.
With this new emulsifier and surfactant, perfectly and completely safe natural cosmetic products can now
be formulated (creams, cleansing milks etc.) which are in keeping with the ecosystem.
1. EVALUATION OF THE AGREEABILITY AND HYDRATION OF A GEL CONTAINING OLIVOIL
PCA (20 volunteers)
100
80
60
40
20
0
Gel with Olivoil PCA
Gel with water
Emollient action
Softness
Humectant
From the graph it can be seen that the gel with Olivoil PCA received a higher number of affirmative answers
for all three parameters.
2. EVALUATION OF THE COSMETIC TOLERABILITY AND ACCEPTABILITY OF A DETERGENT
CONTAINING OLIVOIL PCA
80
60
40
20
0
Deterget with Olvoil PCA
In particular, formulators of rinse-off products, shampoos and detergents can now make commodities that,
when rinsed off, will have less negative impact on the environment that traditional sulfate-containing
formulations.
APPLICATIONS IN COSMETICS
Should these raw materials be used, we are not referring to a cosmetic product which contains vegetable
extracts in a small percentage, but cosmetic products whose base ingredients (e.g. emulsifiers for creams and
surfactants for detergents) are totally made up of only raw materials with a vegetable origin. The new cosmetic
products which result are therefore based on a particularly original concept compared to competition; this
fact means a marketing message can be put over which is unique, very interesting but above all “exclusive”.
They act in themselves as excellent functional substances, thanks to a series of properties and characteristics
pertaining to Olive Oil and Hydrolyzed Wheat Proteins (restoring, soothing and delicate).
In fact thanks to their fatty acid content, they possess particular derma-cosmetic characteristics.
ADVANTAGES COMPARED WITH OTHER SURFACTANS
A fundamental concept is that the use of these new vegetable surfactans enables optimisation of costs of the
different formulas: in fact it is possible to restrain the functional substances or better limit the presence of
the active principles introduced in the various products in order to achieve the different effects claimed, in
that contrary to other surfactants or emulsifiers used only for technical reasons both Olive oil and Hydrolyzed
Wheat proteins possess very valid cosmetic properties.
This is due to the fact that: “The proteic part of the surfactant acts as a protective barrier on the skin,
obstructing the direct attack of other much more aggressive chemical surfactants”.
Detergent with water
Dryness
Tension
Coarseness
From the graph it can be seen that the detergent with Olivoil PCA compared to the detergent without Olivoil
PCA received a lower number of negative answers for all three parameters
The cosmetic products achieved compared to others are characterised by:
1. Excellent skin tolerability
2. Low irritation level
3. Less toxic compared to animal proteins
TESTS IN-VITRO
1. TESTS TO EVALUATE THE CAPACITY TO STABILISE THE FOAM
They form a surface film which prevents excessive evaporation of water from the skin (TEWL) leaving it
morbid and hydrated, and they also have a strengthening and protective action on hair.
400
CHEMICAL COMPOSITION OF OTHERS VEGETABLE OILS
350
300
250
Oils
SATURATED
FATTY ACIDS
Olive oil
Peanut oil
Sunflower oil
Maize oil1
Soya oil1
Coconut oil
16%
19%
11%
5%
4%
87%
200
150
100
50
0
Deterget with Olvoil PCA
Detergent with cocamide DEA
0 minute
5 minute
10 minute
It can be see that the Olivoil PCA tends to stabilise the foam over a period of time; a characteristic not to
be overlooked is also the the creamy and compact nature of the foam itself.
10
MONOUNSATURATED
POLYUNSATURATED
FATTY ACIDS
FATTY ACIDS
75%
53%
33%
31%
23%
6%
9%
28%
50%
50%
59%
2%
3
MONO-UNSATURATED FATTY ACIDS
The mono-unsaturated fatty acids such as oleic acid are found in high percentages above all in olive oil.
They have a low tendency to transform into other molecules (often damaging) through chemical reactions.
The mono-unsaturated fatty acids therefore are not damaging.
The presence of high quantities of oleic acid makes these substances quite stable and easier to preserve. Thanks
to the “essential” fatty acid content they also possess interesting properties for the skin; in fact the essential
fatty acids are the forerunners of highly specialised and active important substances such as prostaglandin.
THE WAY TO USE THE PRODUCT
As the product is in an aqueous solution it is ready to be inserted in a cosmetic formulation; it does not
require pre-treatment (such as solubilization or heating).
We recommend adding it to the product at a temperature below 40°C.
Olivoil Glutamate must be inserted in the aqueous phase of the formulation.
POLY-UNSATURATED FATTY ACIDS
Linoleic and linolenic acids.
IDENTIFICATION OF THE PRODUCT
CHEMICAL NAME:
Olive oil glutinate therefore encompasses the beneficial effects of oil and proteins, confirmed by the
numerous evaluation tests carried out on its efficacy as a detergent, its foaming capacity and tolerability
from the point of view of aggressiveness and the fact that it is not an irritant for the skin, hair and eyes.
PRODUCTS:
OLIVOIL EMULSIFIER - OLIVOIL SURFACTANT
OLIVOIL GLUTAMATE - OLIVOIL PCA
OLIVOIL EMULSIFIER
Smooth, Soft, and Emollient Emulsifiers
ORIGIN
Olivoil Emulsifier is a new emulsifier based on Olivoil Glutinate, which is a new non ethoxylated (PEG free)
vegetable derived surfactant combining the very exceptional fatty acid profile of olive oil with the benefic
hydrolysed wheat proteins, achieving a perfect compatibility with the human body (high tolerance for the
skin) and with the environment (high biodegradability).
CHEMICAL STRUCTURE
The reaction of the amine group of the hydrolysed wheat proteins on the carboxyl group of the fatty acids
of the olive oil leads to an amide showing the structure of a surfactant.
Lipophilic part from Olive Oil
(fatty acids)
Hydrophilic part from wheat
(hydrolized wheat proteins)
O
O
CH -(CH2)n - C -- NH CH-C-NH CH-C
R
R
O
OH
Chemical structure of the Olivoil Emulsifier
By combining this new natural derived molecule with olive oil waxes, it is possible to achieve an amphoteric
system adapted to the formulation of oil in water emulsions.
APPLICATIONS
Traditional ethoxylated emulsifiers are Chemicals which are highly irritant for the skin. Olivoil Emulsifier,
based on vegetable materials, combines high tolerance for the human body and the environment to high
efficiency to form stable and fine emulsions.
Emulsions based on Olivoil Emulsifier don't interfer with the hydrolipidic balance of the skin and leave a
soft and smooth feeling while bringing emoliency. This gentle efficiency is of particular interest in the
formulation of moisturizing and anti-aging emulsions, and skin care products in general.
4
INCI NAME:
ORIGIN:
FUNCTION:
CATEGORY:
Fatty acids of olive oil condensed with sodium salt
glutamic acid.
Sodium Olivoyl Glutamate
Vegetable derivation
Surfactant
Surfactant/Detergent
PHYSICO-CHEMICAL CHARACTERISTICS
ASPECT:
COLOUR:
ODOUR:
pH:
VISCOSITY:
ACTIVE SUBSTANCE:
MOLECULAR WEIGHT:
VEHICLE:
clear liquid
colourless/straw yellow
slight neutral
6-8
< 500 mPas
24 – 30 %
427,71 ca
Aqueous
PRESERVATIVE SYSTEM:
Phenonip
MICROBIOLOGICAL CHARACTERISTICS
Total microbic count:
< 100 UFC/g
RECOMMENDED DOSES
Detergent products:
2 – 10%
OLIVOIL PCA
Softening lipoprotein as fatty acid vehicle and moisturizing agent,
active ingredient and softening surfactant
ORIGIN
Olivoil PCA is a new functional active principle of vegetable derivation for cosmetic use that also acts as a
surfactant able to respect the integrity and the moisturising of the horny layer of the epidermis
It is a condensate between the fatty acids of olive oil and potassium salt pyroglutamic acid.
Olivoil PCA is an active principle that it is able to provide the skin the benefits of the moisturising effect of
potassium salt pyroglutamic acid (PCA) which is a part of the natural moisturising factor (NMF) of the
epidermis and is highly moisturising, together with the benefits of the unsaturated fatty acids of olive oil
(oleic, linoleic, linolenic, etc.) which are: emollient, reduce trans-epidermis dehydration, renovate the normal
barrier function of the epidermis and normal keratinisation, anti-desquamation and anti-chapping processes.
Furthermore it acts as a co-surfactant helping the cosmetic detergent primary surfactant to respect the
hydrolipidic surface film of the skin.
9
INCI NAME:
Olivoyl Hydrolyzed Wheat Protein
PHYSICO - CHEMICAL CHARACTERISTIC
ASPECT (20°C):
limpid solution
COLOUR:
yellow
ODOUR:
slight, typical
DRY MATTER:
> 26%
PROTEIN NITROGEN:
between 2 and 3 %
pH:
7 ± 0,5
VISCOSITY (25°C):
500 mPs
BOILING POINT:
> 100°C
FLASH POINT:
> 100°C
BIODEGRADABILITY:
> 90%
SOLUBILITY:
clear soluble in water
CHARACTER:
anionic
2,0
0,0
-2,0
At the end of the treatment skin gets more compactness
-4,0
Numerical value
t0
7gg
15gg
30gg
45gg
-1,2
-1,2
-0,4
0,8
1,2
Reddening Decrease
10,0
b) Variation of the reddening
MICROBIOLOGY
Total germs < 100 UFC / g
Skin compactness (Elasticity)
FUNCTIONAL TESTS
Two emulsion conteining Olivoil Emulsifier have been tested
1) FIRST PRODUCT (10 volunteers)
a) Skin compactness
9,0
8,0
7,0
6,0
TOLERANCE AND TOXICITY
The product is non irritant for the skin
STORAGE AND SHELF LIFE
The Olivoil Surfactant can be stored during one year, at room temperature (<25°C) and in a dark place.
Overheating should be avoided.
The product significantly changes the disappearance time
of reddening of the skin wich was irritated by external
agents. It helps restoring skin to its natural defences.
5,0
4,0
3,0
2,0
t0
t5’
t15’
t30’
RECOMMENDED DOSAGE
2-20%
c) AGREEABLENESS
6,0
OLIVOIL GLUTAMATE
4,0
A verage value
ORIGIN
Olivoil Glutamate is a new surfactant of vegetable derivation composed on the one hand of a lipophilic of
fatty acids of vegetable derivation united with a hydrophilic part made up of glutamic acid.
It is a condensate between the fatty acids of olive oil and sodium salt glutamic acid in an aqueous solution.
4,0
A verage value
Lipoaminoacid with a surfactant and foaming property
6,0
2,0
0,0
2,0
0,0
-2,0
-2,0
ASPECT (dense,
fluid, creamy,...)
SOFT TOUCH
SKIN
PROTECTION
PERFUME
STRETCHING SKIN SOFTNESS
SKIN
AFTER USE
AFTER USE
The product has proved to be very well accepted on the volunteers who underwent to test
Olive Oil
Vegetable derived fatty acids
Hydrophobic tail
Wheat Gluten
Glutamic acid
Hydrophilic
head
2) SECOND PRODUCT (10 volunteers)
ELASTICITY
According to the obtained results we can state that the
product have contributed to change significantly the skin
elasticity.
Figure 1: Origin and vegetable derivation of Olivoil Glutamate
APPLICATIONS
Olivoil Glutamate can be used as a delicate surfactant in shampoo, bubble bath and body soaps, creating
excellent foam, abundant and stable. It has an optimal detergent action on the skin without harming or
irritating it; improving the sensorial characteristics of the detergent.
This surface-active agent is ideal for use in association with Olivoil glutinate as it optimises its detergent
action.
8
TESTS IN-VITRO RESULTS
Red Blood Cell Test
Biodegradability
Non irritating
>90%
LPO586
It did not produce any
lipoperoxidation
5
INCI NAME: Olivoyl Hydrolyzed Wheat Protein and Cetearyl Alcohol and Glyceryl Oleate and Glyceryl
Stearate and Potassium Hydroxyde
PHYSICO-CHEMICAL CHARACTERISATIONS
ASPECT:
COLOUR:
ODOUR:
DRY MATTER:
pH (5% SOL. METHANOL / WATER 70:30):
PROTEIN NITROGEN:
HEAVY METALS:
TOTAL GERMS:
solid
ivory white
slight characteristic
> 24 %
between 6 and 7
between 1 - 2 %
less than 10 ppm
< 100UFC/g
APPLICATIONS
The chemical structure of Olivoil Surfactant shows a strong potentiality as middle detergent for foam bath,
shampoos, baby care products and personal hygiene cosmetics, with an interesting dirt removal mechanism.
The fatty acid part (unsatured fatty acid) have a strong affinity with lipophilic compound. The grafted
peptides, very polar, have a strong affinity for the aqueous components.
Olivoil Surfactant is compatible with usual cosmetic ingredients and can be formulated as usual surfactant.
TESTS IN-VITRO
1) Measurement of the efficacy (foaming) of the Olivoil Surfactant (falling method)
2,5
2
RECOMMENDED DOSAGE
Between 3 and 10%
STORAGE AND SHELF LIFE
Olivoil Glutinate E can be stored during one year, at room temperature (<25°C)
1,5
1
0,5
0
Olivoil Glutinante
Sles
Instant foaming
After 3mm
After 18mm
Figure 4 : Foaming power of the Olivoil Surfactant compared to SLES
OLIVOIL SURFACTANT
Smooth, Soft and Emollient Surfactant
ORIGIN
Olivoil Surfactant is a new non-ethoxylate (PEG free) vegetable derived surfactant composed of a lipophilic
fatty acids part and an hydrophilic amino acid part. The Olivoil Surfactant is obtained by condensation
between the carboxyl group of the natural fatty acid of the olive oil and the amino group of the hydrolyzed
wheat proteins.
It presents a perfect compatibility with the human body (high tolerance for the skin and the hair) and the
environment (high biodegradability).
Olivoil Surfactant is not based on sulfate chemistry, and it is not based on ethylene oxide chemistry, as the
traditional foaming surfactants, but on vegetable active molecules whit a complete absence of chemical
impurities.
Olivoil Surfactant has high detergency performances and foaming power and it is able to decrease the irritative
power of commun detergents.
STRUCTURAL FORMULA
The reaction of the amine group of the hydrolyzed wheat proteins on the carboxyl group of the fatty acids
of the olive oil leads to an amide showing the structure of a surfactant
The lipophilic part of Olive Oil
O
The hydrophilic part made
up of wheat polypeptides
R1
R
O
R - C - NH - CH - CO - NH - CH - C
n
The carboxyle group is salified with KOH
Chemical structure of the Olivoil Surfactant
6
OH
Olivoil Surfactant is able to create a foam of better visual appearance and better sensorial feeling
2) Determination of the efficacy (foaming) of the Olivoil Surfactant in time
10
8
6
4
2
0
Olivoil Glutinante
Sles
Instant foaming
After 5mm
After 90mm
Figure 5 : Foaming power in time of the Olivoil Surfactant compared to SLES
Olivoil Surfactant is characterized by a much better ability to remain in time
TESTS IN-VITRO OCULAR IRRITANCY
Red Blood Cell Test
Biodegradability
No-irritating
>90%
LPO586
It did not produce any lipoperoxidation
SKIN-IRRITATION TESTS
Tests in-vivo (on a number of 20 volunteers) show an exceptional biocompatibility of the formula containing
Olivoil Surfactant, with the absence of any reaction on 100% of the panel
CRITERIA
RESULTS
Aridity
No: 85 %
Hydration
Yes: 65 %
Tension
No: 85 %
Ruggedness
No: 100 %
Softness
Yes: 75 %
The results show that even when applied on highly sensitive areas, preparations based on the Olivoil Surfactant
don’t induce any aridity, neither tension nor ruggedness, at the opposite of many of the usual chemical
surfactants.
7
OLIVOIL PRODUCTS
New vegetable Lipoproteins, Surfactants and Emulsifiers
“PEG FREE”created and patented
by Kalichem Italia
PRODUCTS: OLIVOIL EMULSIFIER
OLIVOIL SURFACTANT
OLIVOIL GLUTAMATE
OLIVOIL PCA
The increasing use of products that contain no
polyoxyethylene has led to the creation of new classes
of basic materials that are of natural origin and free of
ethylene oxide, but at the same time versatile and with
pleasing cosmetic qualities.
One of these classes is the lipoproteins, based on olive
oil and wheat proteins.
The originality and peculiarity of these new materials
lies in the fact that the "marketing" message they
stimulate is very interesting and exclusive; cosmetic
products, formulated using these raw materials, can
be presented as completely vegetables, based on:
OLIVE OIL AND
HYDROLYZED WHEAT PROTEIN
International Patent
Head Office and Production:
Via G. Pastore,1 - 25082 Botticino Sera (BS) ITALY
Tel: +39.030.2693532 - Fax: +39.030.2193581
e-mail: [email protected] - www.kalichem.it