THE
VI EW
F ROM
CATALOOCHEE
Volume 16, Number 1
CATALOOCHEE RANCH CELEBRATING
Spring 2010
Traditionally Speaking
IT’S IN THE AIR
by Alexander Aumen ~ General Manager
by R. Timothy Curran
hope everyone survived the winter and is anticipating
their vacation at Cataloochee. If you haven’t made
plans yet it’s never too late to give us a call. The staff here
can’t wait for warmer weather after surviving one of the
longest cold spells ever recorded and we all look forward
to greeting you.
Like the rest of the country, we faced tough economic
times in 2009. But with our strong ranch traditions we
maintained our rich history of comfortable lodging, great
Alex and Six
food, exceptional beauty, outdoor activities and superb
horseback riding. In fact, we believe the ranch offers an even stronger value in these
tough times — an opportunity to bond with family, friends, and nature — getting
back to core traditional values that the outside world often diminishes.
Let us provide you a canvas to paint your ranch memories the way we have
for 76 years. We are excited
about offering some new
activities along with established traditions and expect to
have a great season. We truly
thank you for your business.
Please tell us what you
think and what you like most
about our ranch — we always
welcome feedback to provide
the best Cataloochee experience possible. Think of how
wonderful nature is and what
an important role it plays in our
daily lives; and remember there
is no better place to experience
it than Cataloochee. I wish you
all a great year!
I
Dog Trot Studios
76 YEARS
‘Twas a winter to remember.
ou can hear it when you walk in
the lodge; You can hear it when
you sit around the warm fire; And
you can hear it when you walk or ride
through the mountain trails. It’s the
peaceful reminder of simpler and
happier days.
My family and I have been friends
of Cataloochee Ranch for five years or
so, gathering there each year to celebrate time off. I say “friends” rather
than “visitors” because when you’re at
the Ranch, you are home. The great
people who run Cataloochee make
that happen, where you quickly feel at
home with friends — so much more
than just welcome guests.
There are so many great aspects of
the Ranch to enjoy, it’s impossible to
choose a favorite. Whether it’s walking
the trails through the gorgeous scenery,
or taking in the quiet on a cozy cabin
porch. It’s riding a horse through
nature’s creation, or looking for fish in a
cool mountain pond. It’s playing badminton under a clear summer sky, or
splashing in the pool with family and
friends. It’s gathering for a dinner buffet
and square dance to boot, and waking
in the morning without life’s usual
weary concerns.
In the final analisys, though,
Cataloochee Ranch offers three
incomparable experiences.
Y
continued on page 2
© Shelly Coker
1
FOR THE BIRDS
IT’S IN THE AIR
continued from page 1
Connecting with family that is spread
thin by work and circumstance.
Spending time with people who have
come to the ranch to enjoy life as it
was meant to be — simple and good.
And last, to breathe in what life tends
to drive out of you over time — the
peaceful enjoyment of nature and life
at its best. For at Cataloochee Ranch,
it’s in the air.
© Jane Alexander
Tim Curran and his family have become part
of the Cataloochee family and always request
a square dance when they’re here.
FLIPPIN’ SOD
by Ashli Aumen
he wild hogs had had a heyday on Hemphill Bald and at the Saltin’ Ground.
I did not bother myself with finding out the extent of the damage until one
evening I opened a rather emotional email from Judy. I got to thinking about
how upset she was over this hog damage and I told Alex that we might want to
lend a hand in turning the uprooted sod back over. We went to the Saltin’
Ground about three o’clock on a Saturday and there was an area about twice the
size of the ranch house uprooted. Flipping sod is like working a puzzle: if you get
the right piece in the right place it fits perfectly, if it doesn’t fit you have to make
it look like it did. I got so mad. I was mad at the hogs, I was mad at myself for
not helping Judy and her crew sooner, I got mad at those that had not helped
out at all, I was mad at the park service for not having tastier grubs on their side
of the fence.
The second time Judy called for our help we started out from Thunderbolt
Knob. It wasn’t too bad. Alex and I could walk and flip the sod very quickly for
the damage was minimal. As we approached the top of the bald and followed the
slight damage around the face, I stopped and looked out over the mountains.
What a wonderful sight to see. I could not remember the last time I had been to
the top of Hemphill Bald. I had forgotten what a beautiful back yard we have. Of
course there was a large patch of uprooted sod to be worked on, but I wasn’t angry
about it this time. I was thankful to be up on the top of Hemphill Bald on a chilly
day in November with my husband, our oldest daughter, Jorja, (our twins are not
old enough, yet), and Mother Nature. Life just doesn’t get any better than that
even if I was flippin’ sod.
All © Shelly Coker
T
Cataloochee is the perfect place to enjoy
music, bonfires, storytelling and great food.
Breathe in the Mile-High Air, Take in a Crimson Sunset and . . .
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ataloochee Ranch is renowned for its great natural
beauty, its warm hospitality and its beautifully-mannered
horses. For those of you who are birders or would like to be,
you have a rich experience awaiting you. On a recent May I
found more than 50 species on the mountain. To start your
birding experience get a good field guide.
Start at the ranch house and check the hummingbird
feeders for the energetic little ruby throats. In the parking lot
look for chipping sparrows and listen for song sparrows.
Check the evergreens for cedar waxwings. Look in the oak
trees between the ranch house and the cabins for blue-headed
vireos, least flycatchers and northern parulas. Head down
towards the pond keeping an eye out for northern cardinals
and brown thrashers. At the pond check the edges for common grackles and red-winged blackbirds. In the big oak
tree near the barn look for pine siskins and goldfinches at
the thistle feeder. At the barn itself watch barn swallows
come and go from their nests inside. Up the hill at
Silverbell Lodge listen for the “drink your tea’’ song of the
eastern towhee. Also watch for northern flickers, gray catbirds
and Carolina wrens. In the evening check the sky around the
ranch house for chimney swifts.
Explore the trails around the ranch. On horseback, you
will mostly hear the birds while on foot you will see many
more. Climb the hill by the
new chestnut trees on the
Evans Cove trail (orange
arrows) and look for eastern
bluebirds. As you go around
the bowl, listen for field sparrows. Approaching the big
oak tree after you leave the
rhododendron tunnel, look
for tufted titmice, black
capped or Carolina chickadees and white-breasted
nuthatches. Heading down through the woods you may find
black-throated green warblers and red-eyed vireos. As you
wind your way along the road toward Evans Cove listen for
scarlet tanagers and rose-breasted grosbeaks. As you start
back up the hill towards the ranch watch for Canada warblers,
and closer to the ranch chestnut-sided warblers.
In the rhododendron-filled gullies on the Devil’s
Britches trail listen for the rare Swainson’s warbler and the
croaking of common ravens. Around Todd’s Folly watch for
downy woodpeckers.
C
In early morning you may hear yellow-billed cuckoos and
veeries on Pine Tree Gap Road. You’re likely to see wild
turkeys, lots of them, in the Wildflower Garden. On Tom’s
Stand trail on the way to Hemphill Bald you’re likely to see
eastern wood peewees. Listen for their plaintive call, pee-awee. On top of the bald you should find indigo buntings, bluebirds and chimney swifts. Check the sky for turkey vultures
and red-tailed hawks. If you come back by Double Gap Road
listen for chestnut-sided, black-throated green, black-throated
blue, and northern parula warblers.
May is a good time to see ruffed grouse and their
chicks. On a recent hike to Poll’s Gap I rounded a corner and
was confronted by a displaying grouse which charged me
before running into the undergrowth, likely a male. Soon
another grouse emerged low to the ground making clucking
sounds, probably a female with chicks. Sure enough I saw
chicks scurrying into the undergrowth. Later on the Devil’s
Britches trail I heard a hissing on the bank, looked up and
saw a ruffed grouse displaying. When it started clucking I
realized it was a female with chicks nearby. I referred to my
guide book and discovered that females as well as male
grouse display. There’s always something new to learn.
At the ranch, you may see ravens, downy woodpeckers and house wrens.
All © William P. Harbin
by Robert Snyder
If you are really ambitious, take a hike into the Great
Smoky Mountains National Park, either down the strenuous Double Gap trail to Caldwell Fork, or along the
Cataloochee Divide to Cove Creek Gap.
When you’re through birding, relax in front of the
roaring fireplace and share your experiences.
Bob Snyder, an avid birder, is a ranch regular from Great
Barrington, MA.
Visit www.cataloocheeranch.com for birding
workshop listings and times.
3
A Little Dab’ll Do Ya
THEY’RE BLOOMING EVERYWHERE
by Alice Alexander Aumen
by Judy B. Sutton
© Shelly Coker
© Shelly Coker
The ranch abounds with wild lily of
the valley, umbrella leaf, bluets and
yellow trillium.
© Shelly Coker
4
A
© George Shackleford
night’s punch. It had become illegal to serve moonshine and
I had visions of the revenuers knocking at the front door in
an effort to close down Cataloochee Ranch. When all the
guests arrived safely at the barn the next morning, I breathed
a deep sigh of relief. We never again officially served moonshine but patronized the local ABC store for Georgia Moon,
Mellow Corn or another inferior legal brand. We had never
considered ourselves above the law only indulging in a traditional rite of this remote kingdom.
But Cataloochee Punch is alive and well. It was always
featured at Brother Tom’s and wife Jane’s inimitable steam
engine parties. And it proudly held its place among the fine
Scotches, bourbons and champagne at Ernie and Penny
Edwards’ wedding this past July. To acquire the main ingredient,
the tradition still holds of “sending word” and it arrives on
the doorstep before sunup.
For hikers, Cataloochee Ranch offers
incredible views near the ranch house
as well as far-off vistas.
© Jane Alexander
© Wendy Howarth
hey are everywhere on the ranch, with different species blooming
throughout the season. The richness and diversity of flora in the Smoky
Mountains is rivaled only by the rain forests of South America. An excellent
way to enjoy these flowers is on horseback.
From the first trail rides in April when you’ll spot trailing arbutus and service
berry, until well past the first frost, there is a colorful procession of wildflowers.
May brings an astounding variety. White is the dominant color,
Dutchman’s britches, squirrel corn and toothwort are profuse on the trail to
Hemphill Bald. As you return from the Swag along the Brer Rabbit Trail you
will see many varieties of trillium, trout lily, spring beauty, foam flower, lily of
the valley and a variety of violets.
Mountain laurel begins its bloom in late May and continues into June. The
bald face trail has a massive stand of this beautiful shrub that varies in color
from pure white to deep pink. At the same time the purple rhododendron
opens its buds. This shrub is relatively rare but can be found in the area around
the Swamp Monster House and below the dam of the lake. Flame
azalea begins its bloom in early June and is especially beautiful on
the return ride from Hemphill Bald. An unimposing favorite, tiny
bluets, blanket the banks of roads all over the ranch property
from May through June. Also don’t miss the splendid stands of
shiny galax leaves along the Devil’s Britches loop. Whether
showing the lovely white spike in June or the change to deep
maroon leaves in late fall, this plant is a favorite to decorate our
houses all winter.
July brings the bloom of our prolific white rhododendron,
the high-altitude and rare fly poison and members of the mint
family such as bee balm and hoary mountain mint. The summer
months also bring field flowers such as hairy beard-tongue, wild
bergamot, oxeye daisy, yarrow and Queen Anne’s lace. A ride
through the Bowl to Evan’s Cove, over the bald, or along the
meadow trail reveals these sun-seekers. In late summer on a ride
over Hemphill Bald you can see the brilliant Turk’s-cap lily
peeking out from under the shade of the hardwoods on the Cataloochee Divide Trail. In
Visit www.cataloocheeranch.com for wildflower
August and September you get the asters,
identification workshop listings and times.
lobelia, turtleheads and abundant in the
woods, white snakeroot.
If you are curious about rare species
just ask wranglers or family members
where to find the elusive whorled pogonia,
the large purple fringed orchid, or pink
and yellow lady slippers. We love to talk
flowers at Cataloochee.
T
s anyone who has read Mountain Fever knows, corn
whiskey played a major part in the economic and social
life of the mountain people. One reader commented to me
that it was a very interesting and well-written book, but “they
sure did drink a lot.”
In her adaptation to mountain ways, Miss Judy figured out
how to turn local produce into heavenly fare for our guests.
Some of the favorites were Cataloochee punch (from moonshine), savory pot roast (from bear meat) and tasty vegetables
(from pokeweed). Over the years cooks and interested guests
learned Miss Judy’s recipes by osmosis or patient example but
the secrets of Cataloochee Punch were left in my hands. We
had good fun “spearmintin’’ with the “mix by ear” or “pour and
taste” method. (Read Bettina Shackelford’s account in the new
edition of Cataloochee Cooking.) Irreverent flatlanders dubbed
the punch, which had to be made outdoors so the ranch house
didn’t reek of corn whiskey, “Mountain Margaritas” or L’il
Abner’s “Kickapoo Joy Juice.’’
Mr. Tom’s mid-August birthday could not be celebrated
without Cataloochee Punch. For these happy, fun-filled parties
we wrote elaborate skits and scoured our closets for outrageous
garb so family, friends and guests could play their parts. We
remember with fondness the year teenage actors, after sneaking
a bit of the renowned punch, either forgot their lines or made
up their own. Since the skits were pretty loosely written, the
kids’ improvisations just made the skits funnier.
After Mr. Tom’s death in 1972, we served Cataloochee
Punch on Memorial Day, July 4th and Labor Day weekends.
One Labor Day morning, I sat bolt upright in bed, terrified
that some guest might be suffering ill effects from the previous
© Shelly Coker
. . . See Why Cataloochee Ranch Has Been a Choice Destination for Generations.
© Shelly Coker
5
My First Year
BUZZING AROUND
GOOD FENCES
by Judy Alexander Coker
by Mary Coker, DVM
I
AND FINALLY REMEMBERING
ALL THE THINGS THAT KIDS
TEACH US:
Play every day.
Take a nap.
Enjoy making new discoveries
and live in the moment.
by Shelly J. Coker
s you walk around the ranch this
season notice the beautiful split
rail fences near the ranch house, the cabins, the barn and especially surrounding
the pastures. These fences may look like
they’ve been here for years, but like so
much here at Cataloochee they are the
labor of Jim Wood.
Many of us know Jim as Cookie.
His banjo playing for mountain music
nights and square dances at the ranch is
just one of his many talents. Recently
he designed and built a log splitter
which he uses to split logs into rails for
hand-made fences. The trees of course
come from ranch property.
Jim gets help from an experienced
crew, his grandson Michael Smith,
James Inman, Judy Coker and, not
least, his dogs Daisy and Pepper. You’re
likely to see one of them sitting in his lap while he’s working.
Jim is particularly proud of the fences he has built that keep our horses
protected and for good reason since split rails are much safer for livestock than
barbed wire, which used to surround our pastures and garden.
The skill, craftsmanship, labor and effort put into the rail fences is truly
amazing. The horses and cattle are thriving and we humans get to enjoy the
beauty of Cookie’s fences at Cataloochee.
© Shelly Coker
A
efore he invented Big Yellow, Cookie had been splitting
logs with a 35-foot by 12-inch beam, an old Jeep motor
and cylinders from a 24D International bulldozer. He had
dreamed about upgrading this jewel and when the old Jeep
motor finally gave out, a mischievous grin came on the faces
of Cookie, Michael and James. An old air compressor was
remodeled to make a strong motor capable of pushing any
blade through the largest logs. A back hoe digger was
reworked, equipped with tongs that can pick up any size log
to place it on the beam. An old tractor seat was found and
installed for me to sit on to pull and push the leavers. After
a couple of gallons of industrial yellow paint were applied we
have the beauty you see here, which makes the best 10-foot
fence rails in the Smoky Mountains.
B
Alexia Meredith Trull
Visit www.cataloocheeranch.com for a Taste of the Ranch.
6
With the new hive made we got a long ladder. Then
Cookie asked for something to cover his face that he could
see through (his bee suit that we had ordered had not come
yet). In the ranch store room I found a net bag of onions. So
the onions went into a box and the net bag went to the tree
where the bees (luckily) were still hanging onto an apple
limb. The net went over Cookie’s hat, we pulled his sleeves
down and buttoned his shirt up high
and tight and up the ladder he went
with a small hand saw. Very gently
the limb was cut and very gently
Cookie backed down the ladder carrying his load of bees. Very gently
the bees were placed in front of the
natural hive and gently brushed
towards the entrance until he saw
the queen bee go into her new
home. When she went in the entire
group followed and immediately
started cleaning house. Out came
sawdust, bits of wood, leaves from
the apple tree and anything else
© Lisa Shelton
they didn’t want in there.
We have had one other swarm and Cookie built a hive
more standard than the silverbell tree but whenever I go to
check on the bees, the ones in the old log seem to be happier and more industrious. In the fall we did not rob any of the
honey but left it for the bees to use during the winter. This
is still a learning process for me and I am totally fascinated.
The Yellow Machine
© John Havens
REMEMBERING THE HARD
PARTS ABOUT GROWING UP:
Cutting teeth.
Falling down/ getting up.
© Shelly Coker
SIMILARITIES TO HAVING
A HORSE:
Colic becomes a household word.
You pay special attention to what
goes in and what comes out
and everything in between.
REMEMBERING WHAT WE
FORGOT WE LEARNED:
How hard it is to crawl or walk
for the first time.
Discovering the joy of exploring
every little nook and cranny.
Celebrating pleasure of
accomplishing even the
smallest thing (small to us).
ast spring a friend offered to give us a hive of honey bees.
I knew very little about the care and handling of bees
but in his youth Cookie had cared for bees and knew them
well. My first question was how do you transport the hive and
its bees? Simple—on a rainy day they are at home and you
simply stop up the entrance and put the hive on your truck.
This done we set them up on a stand under the apple trees
in the Bowl, facing southeast so that
the early morning sun would warm
them. It wasn’t long until they were
busy as bees, hunting any and all
blooming flowers and carrying sacks
of yellow back home. Cookie told
me that they were very friendly bees
and one could sit and watch them
safely. The only thing that he did
not want me to do was to get in their
line of flight.
Cookie knew that they would
swarm soon so he set about making
another hive for them. (Bees swarm
when another queen is hatched and
the old queen leaves the hive with
half of the bees; she lights on a nearby limb while scouts go out
to find a new home.) The Silverbell tree is native to us and for
some reason it gets hollow in the middle at an early age.
Cookie had found one and had kept it for this purpose. All he
had to do was to put a bottom on the log, build a criss-cross rack
as an insert, put a top on the log then cut a small entrance.
L
t may be strange to hear that from
me but it has been my first year as a
mom (a human mom) and I have
found myself reflecting on some of the
things I have learned.
— J.A.C.
© Shelly Coker
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Cataloochee Ranch
PRSRT STD
U.S. Postage
119 Ranch Drive
Maggie Valley, North Carolina 28751
RETURN SERVICE REQUESTED
PAID
Maggie Valley, NC
Permit No. 5
www.cataloocheeranch.com
email: [email protected]
1.800.868.1401 or 828.926.1401
WHAT’S IN A NAME?
© Cataloochee Ranch Collection
by Melinda Coker, Age 15
ingo, My Lady, Prince, Ladybug, Roscoe, Honeydew, Scotch,
Buckeye, Flint, Soda, Sarvis, Laurel, Redbud, Spruce… these are
some names of loved Ranch horses of the past.
Have you ever thought of a great, incredible horse name? Would
you like the chance to name a future ranch horse? If so, please send me
your idea along with your name, age (if you want,) where you are from
and when you like to visit the ranch.
The next time the barn gets a new horse, we might select your name for
the gelding or mare! Please email me at [email protected]
or mail to Melinda Coker, c/o
Cataloochee Ranch, 119 Ranch
Drive, Maggie Valley, NC 28751.
Thanks for helping with this and
good luck!
Sturdy Dan (1990-2010), pictured on left, served
Cataloochee Ranch faithfully for 12 years, working
cheerfully, never complaining. Dan retired with his
soulmate Lady Toutou, right, in 2000, still upbeat
and ready to go.
Come Visit Us
C
ataloochee Ranch in Maggie Valley,
North Carolina features accommodations for 65 guests, including 12 cabins
and 12 rooms, delicious home-cooked
meals, plus facilities to host conferences
and special events.
Activities for the entire family
include horseback riding, hiking, fishing
on our 700-acre mountain paradise adjoining the Great Smoky Mountain National
Park. Experience the 76-year tradition of
hospitality established by founders Tom
and Judy Alexander. Visit us on the web at
www.cataloocheeranch.com
WINTER CARE
FOR HORSES
ataloochee’s adoption program
for wintering and retiring trail Gabe is one of the ranch’s favorites..
horses is popular with our equestrian
guests. It is fitting that horses that work hard should have a happy, well
cared-for environment with people who love and appreciate them. If
you are interested in caring for a horse during the winter or permanently when it reaches retirement age, please contact me, Judy B.
Sutton, Barn Manager, at Cataloochee Ranch, 119 Ranch Drive,
Maggie Valley, NC 28751.
C
Founder and Senior Writer: Judy Alexander Coker
8
~
Editor: Jane Alexander
~
Graphic Designer: Susan Rhew
© Shelly Coker
B