Formulations

Reflect
on your Formulations
Seatons Natural Waxes
This range of premium natural waxes confer both quality and multifunctionality to a wide range of demanding personal care formulations.
The protective and structuring properties that carnauba wax,
candelilla wax, rice bran wax and beeswax exhibit in nature can be
mirrored in your formulations.
The waxes are produced to the highest quality giving stable,
consistent raw materials for use as natural thickeners, structuring
and glossing agents, hardeners and emollients.
These waxes have applications in a wide variety of personal care
applications including colour cosmetics, creams, balm and lip sticks.
Natural waxes for personal care
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Naturally derived waxes
Use beeswax for thickening, emulsification,
emolliency, soothing, softening and moisture
retention properties
Use carnauba wax for gloss, brightness,
hardness and to improve performance of
personal care formulations
Use candelilla wax for structure, film
forming, water resistance slip and gloss
characteristics
Use rice bran wax for structure and body.
Has similar physical characteristics to
carnauba wax
Beeswax
Beeswax is secreted by worker honey bees for use in the construction of
honeycomb. In its purest form beeswax is white but most commonly seen
in a variety of shades of yellow through to brown due to the natural
colouring in the pollen, the age and care of the hive as well as the quantity
of propolis present.
The most widely recognised bee is Apis mellifera which is native to Europe,
Africa and latterly China. The worker bees feed on honey in order to
produce the wax which is secreted from glands in liquid form which then
solidifies into wax scales. These scales are in turn transformed into comb
and cappings as required. To extract the Beeswax the honeycomb is melted
with hot water and the crude wax skimmed off the surface.
In its raw state beeswax remains popular, after washing and filtering, for
use in candle making and in the manufacture of comb foundation. For most
commercial uses however, Beeswax requires further filtration and
bleaching, after which it is graded into three main colours, white, light
yellow and natural yellow.
Beeswax is used as a thickening agent and an emulsifier. It has wonderful
emollient, soothing and softening properties and helps the skin retain
moisture. It will not cause a problem and clog the pores but brings a host
of positive attributes, such as healing and antiseptic properties to the
formulation.
Carnauba wax is the hardest natural wax and contains mainly esters of
fatty acids (80-85%), fatty alcohols (10-15%), acids (3-6%) and
hydrocarbons (1-3%). Specific for carnauba wax is the content of esterified
fatty diols (about 20%), hydroxylated fatty acids (about 6%) and cinnamic
acid, an antioxidant (about 10%).
Carnauba wax is a prominent ingredient in colour cosmetic formulas:
lipsticks, eyeliners, mascara, eye shadows, foundations, blushers, skin care
preparations and sun care preparations.
Description
Carnauba wax
A hard vegetable wax used in many different applications. Car polish,
glazing agents, colour cosmetics, personal care formulations, special
paints and enamels, insulating components and paper coating.
Rice bran wax
Description
Rice bran wax is a natural vegetable wax extracted from rice bran oil. This
oil is extracted from the germ and inner husk of rice and is very popular as
a cooking oil in several Asian countries, including Japan and China.
Because this wax is a by product of large scale production it is freely
available and more price stable than other natural waxes. The main
components of rice bran wax are aliphatic acids (wax acids) and higher
alcohol esters, making it a high melting point wax, similar in physical
properties to carnauba wax.
White beeswax
A white to ivory coloured pure beeswax with a faint characteristic odour.
Our product is used in many applications including lipsticks and lip
balms, creams and lotions, pomades and aromatic candles.
Yellow beeswax
A light yellow wax with a faint characteristic odour suitable for use in
personal care. It can also be used in the high end candle and polish
markets.
Carnauba wax
This hard yellow-brown wax comes from the carnauba palm tree
(Copernicea cerifera) and is found only in the north east of Brazil in the
states of Rio Grande do Norte, Ceará and Piaui. It is known as the “queen
of waxes” as well as Brazil wax and palm wax.
The wax is obtained from the film of powder that coats the sword shaped
leaves protecting them from the severe climate of the region. During the
harvest period (August-January) the leaves are cut, bundled together and
put out to dry in the sun. The powder is then mechanically thrashed from
the leaves and graded by colour. Once refined, the carnauba wax is a very
pale yellow wax.
Reflect on your Formulations
Description
Rice bran wax
A hard glossy yellow wax which can be used as a replacement for
carnauba wax in most cases. It can be used in a variety of industries as a
thickener, binding agent, plasticiser, coating and gelling agent. It has uses
in personal care products including lipsticks, lip balms, suncare, creams
and lotions, where it acts as a thickener. Other uses of rice bran wax
include polishes, printing inks and packaging.
Candelilla wax
Candelilla wax is obtained from the coating of the “wax slipper plant”
Euphorbia cerifera. The wax is deposited on the surface of the plants,
during the dry season, to protect them from excessive water loss.
The Euphorbia species that produce candelilla wax is indigenous to Mexico,
especially in the northern states of Chihuahua, Nuevo Leon and Zacatecas.
They also occur in the southern states of the USA, Texas, California and
Arizona. Candelilla wax is a popular vegetable wax and is available in pellet
form.
To extract the wax the plants are dried in the sun for up to two weeks, after
which they are pulverised and treated with dilute mineral acid. During the
extraction the wax floats to the surface and is then skimmed off to give a
brittle, light brownish opaque waxy material called cerote. The colour can
best be described as “café-au-lait”. After solidification the crude molten
wax already gives the nice and glossy appeal on the surface, so
characteristic for candelilla wax in its applications.
In its refined form, candelilla wax is used extensively in the personal care
industry for numerous applications including creams and lipsticks where its
“slip” characteristics are ideal. It is also used as a thickening agent, an
emollient and a film-forming agent enabling water-repellence. This waterrepellence is excellently placed in lipsticks. The film-forming properties of
candelilla wax offer the possibility to use it as a fixative for UV filters in sun
care products.
Description
Refined candelilla wax
A light orange/yellow refined wax regularly used for personal care
applications including lipsticks, lip gloss, body creams and lotions, hair
preparations and eyeliner.
Technical and regulatory information
White beeswax
Yellow beeswax
Carnauba wax
Candelilla wax
Rice bran wax
Grade
Refined
Refined
Refined
Refined
Refined
Colour
White/ivory
Light yellow
Pale yellow
Light orange/yellow
yellow
Form
Pellets
Pellets
Flakes
Pellets
Pellets
Odour
characteristic
characteristic
characteristic
characteristic
characteristic
Congealing point (°C)
61-65
61-65
(80-88 melting point ºC)
65-70
(75-82 melting point °C)
Acid value
(mg KOH/g)
17-24
17-24
2-7
12-22
1-10
Ester value
70-80
70-80
-
31-43
-
Saponification value
(mg KOH/g)
87-104
87-104
78-95
43-65
75-90
INCI name
Cera Alba
Cera Alba
Copernicia Cerifera
(Carnauba) Wax
Euphorbia Cerifera
(Candelilla) Wax
Oryza Sativa
(Rice) Bran Wax
CAS number
8012-89-3
8012-89-3
8015-86-9
8006-44-8
8016-60-2
EINECS number
232-383-7
232-383-7
232-399-4
232-347-0
232-409-7
REACH status
Exempt (Annex V.9)
Exempt (Annex V.9)
Exempt (Annex V.9)
Exempt (Annex V.9)
Exempt (Annex V.9)
Natural waxes for personal care
Care and protect lip balm
Product/INCI Name
% w/w
Seatons refined sweet almond oil (Prunus Amygdalus Dulcis Oil)
To 100
Seatons refined sheanut butter (Butyrospermum Parkii Butter)
25.2
Seatons golden jojoba oil (Simmondsia Chinensis Oil)
14.4
Seatons yellow beeswax (Cera Alba)
5.4
Seatons candelilla wax (Candelila Cera)
Pricerine 9091 (Glycerin)
3.6
2.7
Seatons carnauba wax (Copernicia Cerifera (Carnauba) Wax)
1.8
Tocopheryl acetate
1.8
Method
Combine all components and heat to 75-80°C. Mix until homogenous. Pour into pots at 70°C.
Luxury body lotion
Product/INCI Name
Functionality
% w/w
Oil phase
Seatons refined shea nut butter (Butyrospermum Parkii (Shea) Butter)
Natural emollient
9.00
Tween 60 (Polysorbate 60)
Emulsifier
5.00
Crodacol CS90 EP (Cetearyl Alcohol)
Bodying agent
5.00
Seatons refined rice bran wax (Oryza Sativa (Rice) Bran Wax
or Seatons carnauba wax (Copernicia Cerifera (Carnauba) Wax)
Bodying agent
4.00
Crodamol ML (Myristyl Lactate)
Emollient
4.00
Span 60 (Sorbitan Stearate)
Co-emulsifier
2.50
Crodamol TN (Isotridecyl Isononanoate)
Feel additive
2.50
Avocadin (Persea Gratissima (Avocado) Oil Unsaponifiables)
Moisturiser
2.00
Brij CS20 (Ceteareth-20)
BHT
Secondary emulsifier
Antioxidant
1.00
0.05
Water phase
Deionised water (Aqua)
OptaSense G40 (Carbomer) (2% Aqueous solution)
-
to 100
Thickening agent
5.00
Pricerine 9091 (Glycerin)
Euxyl® PE 9010 (Phenoxyethanol)
Humectant
4.00
Sodium hydroxide (10% Aqueous solution)
pH adjuster
Preservative
0.80
to pH 5.5-6.0
Method
Heat oil and water phases separately to 70-75°C. Add water to oil phase with stirring. Once below 50°C neutralise with sodium hydroxide
and add Euxyl® PE 9010. Homogenise with triple roller, colloid mill or other suitable equipment.
Non-warranty
The information in this publication is believed to be accurate and is given in good faith, but no representation or warranty as to its completeness or accuracy is made. Suggestions for uses or applications are only opinions.
Users are responsible for determining the suitability of these products for their own particular purpose. No representation or warranty, expressed or implied, is made with respect to information or products including, without
limitation, warranties of merchantability, fitness for a particular purpose, non-infringement of any third party patent or other intellectual property rights including, without limit, copyright, trademark and designs. Any trademarks
identified herein are trademarks of the Croda group of companies.
©2016 Croda International Plc
email:[email protected] www.croda.com/seatons
01/16 V7