CYCLE ROUTE X X X X X X FOY American Indian Memorial A2 6 N30 RECOGNE 4 N83 Bois des Corbeaux Bois Jacques 4 N3 0 N83 BIZORY 854 N N8 E2 5 34 LUZERY Mardasson Memorial N874 5 N8 St ar t N84 BASTOGNE N84 N30 5 N8 N8 Start PLACE MC AULIFFE 4 ROUTE 1 N4 ROUTE 2 ROUTE 3 NATIONAL ROAD MOTORWAY X CEMETERY ROAD You are getting ready to ride the cycle route following the traces left by the two World Wars in the heart of Bastogne and its surrounding area. To discover this fascinating history, there are three routes you can choose from: the first is an easy route of about 5km for less experienced cyclists, the second is another easy route of about 10km and the third takes you along country roads for about 20km. To sum up : ROUTE 1 : 5 KM ROUTE 2 : 10 KM ROUTE 3 : 20 KM The three routes all start at the same place, so this brochure can be used by everyone. We wish you an excellent ride discovering the wonderful Bastogne countryside. 5 HISTORICAL WAYMARKS This themed route takes you through the history of the Battle of the Bulge (the Ardennes Counteroffensive), following the many traces left by this terrible battle on the landscape of Bastogne and its surrounding area. Occupied from the very early days of the Second World War, like the rest of Belgian territory, Bastogne was liberated by the Allies on 10 September 1944. There was general rejoicing and relief among the population, but nobody imagined that the retreating Germans would be able to take the town back. However, Hitler still believed that victory was possible and wanted to retake Antwerp at any cost, as Allied soldiers, weapons and supplies were arriving through this port. To do this, Hitler assembled the 5th, 6th and 7th Armies at the gateway to the Ardennes. The Führer clearly knew that the region covered by the Ardennes forest was the weak link in the Allied chain. On 16 December 1944, at around 5.30am, the German army began a massive bombardment which fell onto the front line for nearly three hours. At around 8am, 240,000 men and a thousand tanks hit the road, on a line extending from Monschau to Echternach. The surprise was total. This was one of the objectives of the German army: the network of roads around Bastogne. The weather conditions were gloomy; the fog, in particular, prevented the Allied planes from intervening. On 19 December, part of the 10th Armored Division and the 101st Airborne Division arrived in Bastogne as reinforcements, preventing the town from being overrun by the Germans. Despite these efforts, on 21 December the town of Bastogne was completely encircled, with both civilians and Allied troops caught in a trap. The German advance reached its peak on 24 December 1944 but was stopped a few hours later near Dinant, following a very violent battle. Caught in the siege of Bastogne, the few Allied units resisted heroically, resupplied by aeroplanes which, thanks to better weather, were able to take to the skies from 23 December. 6 To push back the German troops, the Allies attacked via the North (Marshal Montgomery) and the South (General Patton). As the day ended on 26 December 1944, General Patton’s units broke the encirclement around Bastogne. Finally, at the end of December, Hitler realised he would not be able to retake Antwerp and so made Bastogne his ultimate objective. Until mid-January 1945, the town and the region were subject to intense attacks and bombardments. But despite the efforts and cruel obstinacy of the German forces, the Allies were now well in place. The Battle of the Bulge finished on 28 January 1945 when the German troops withdrew behind their starting line. Following the battle, the Ardennes was in ruins, the towns and road infrastructure destroyed, and the human cost was catastrophic. Figures vary according to the sources, but the number of American victims is estimated at 11,000 killed, 47,000 injured and 23,000 taken prisoner or missing in action. The German losses amounted to 13,000 dead, 39,000 injured and 30,000 missing in action. Over 3,000 people Belgian and Luxembourg civilians were also killed, without counting those injured or missing. This themed cycle route invites you to follow the traces of this terrible, moving story, guiding you along your visit as you discover the heroism of the Allied soldiers who fought in this region. TO FIND OUT MORE The Bastogne War Museum is the ideal complement to the cycle route you’re planning to follow... Its visit itinerary, inaugurated in 2014, offers a modern, interactive retelling of the causes, events and consequences of the Second World War, through the prism of the Battle of the Bulge. Its original set design contains three multi-sensory, 3D total-immersion scenes, which will totally immerse you in the history of the period! Contact the Bastogne Tourist Office to obtain reduced admission fees by buying a combined “cycle-BWM” ticket. 7 ROUTE 1 : 5 KM ROUTE 2 : 10 KM ROUTE 3 : 20 KM STAGE 1: TO THE OLD GARE DU SUD After picking up your bicycle at the Tourist Office, head for the old railway station (Gare du Sud) 400 metres away to take the Ravel route along the former railway line. Before you start, you can make a small detour to the 101st Airborne Museum. This is very easy to find: Follow Rue Mathieu on the corner of Place Général McAuliffe, opposite the Giorgi restaurant. At the end of this street, you will reach the Athénée Royal Bastogne-Houffalize hotel. Turn left and you will see the 101st Airborne Museum a few hundred metres away. Before the war, the building housing the 101st Airborne Museum was the officers’ mess for the 2nd Chasseurs Ardennais regiment, which was stationed in Bastogne. The Museum now tells the story of the siege and the Battle of Bastogne during the winter of 1944-45, through a number of dioramas. On the corner of the street, the building opposite the 101st Airborne Museum was used as the General Headquarters for the German armies operating in the region in May 1940, over four years before the Battle of the Bulge. Hitler himself came here on 17 May 1940, to meet his officers and receive updates on the progress of the war. To go back to the Gare du Sud, turn around. Pass the Athénée Royal Bastogne-Houffalize again and you will arrive back in front of the old Gare du Sud (railway station). 8 ROUTE 1 : 5 KM ROUTE 2 : 10 KM ROUTE 3 : 20 KM STAGE 2: FOLLOW THE RAVEL ROUTE TO THE CADY MONUMENT To follow the Ravel route, go to the right of the station (when facing the building). Follow the Ravel route for about 2.4 km (you will pass the Liège-Bastogne-Liège roundabout, a tribute to the cycling race that passes through Bastogne every spring) until you reach a fork on the right. Take this fork and go along Rue Gustave Delperdange until it crosses the Rue de Clervaux. On your left at this junction is the Cady Monument. Cady Monument, © Bastogne War Museum The “Cady” monument is a tribute to Corporal Emile Cady, a Belgian Corporal who died in May 1940. He was on duty at this spot, protecting the retreating Belgian troops on 10 May 1940, the day that Germany declared war on Belgium. This is what happened, as related by Lieutenant-General Merckx: “After completing the perilous mission of protecting the retreat right to the end, Corporal Cady, on evacuating his shelter, became the target of convergent enemy fire and fell, mortally injured. His comrade Louis Bouillon, who was already retreating with his machine gun on his shoulder, picked up the injured man on his back, in full enemy fire, and took him to the railway signal house. Surrounded by Germans, Bouillon was obliged to leave his Corporal there and then managed to get back to the Belgian lines, still carrying his machine gun.” 9 ROUTE 1 : 5 KM ROUTE 2 : 10 KM ROUTE 3 : 20 KM STAGE 3: TOWARDS THE MARDASSON To get to the Mardasson Memorial, take the road towards Bizory, using the Ravel route on the right side of the road. When the road splits into two, you will see the Liberty Road milestone at the intersection of the two roads. Stop in front of this milestone for a few moments... Since 1947, Liberty Road, which stretches from the Normandy Landing beaches to Bastogne, has commemorated the Allied victory. It represents the journey taken by General Patton’s Third Army to liberate France, Belgium and Luxembourg. It is symbolised by these milestones in pink or white concrete, decorated with a flame that is reminiscent of the Statue of Liberty in the port of New York. The first milestones are at Sainte-Mère Church and on Utah Beach in Normandy, and the last one is here, at the entrance to the Mardasson Memorial in Bastogne. Liberty Road follows the whole road network of 1,147 kilometres. Milestone No. 1147, the last milestone on Liberty Road, © Bastogne War Museum Continue your route on the right side of the Ravel route until you reach the Mardasson Memorial. The monument is in the shape of a 5-pointed star, the emblem of the United States. A circular gallery marks out a space for remembrance, and a frieze runs all around the top. 10 The names of the 50 American States in existence at the time of the Offensive are engraved on this frieze. The gallery is covered with a platform, supported by ninety 12-metre high columns, offering a unique panoramic view of the town and the region. Mardasson Memorial, © Bastogne War Museum The crypt was not part of the initial project. In March 1949, some American women asked the United States Ambassador in Belgium to create a place for remembrance. This was dug opposite the monument, below the esplanade. Over 350 mines were needed to remove the 3,000 cubic metres of rock to create this space. Inside, three arches mark out niches that have been decorated with mosaic frescoes designed by Fernand Léger. Each niche contains a marble altar for three different faiths: Catholic on the right, Protestant in the centre and Jewish on the left. The Mardasson Memorial was inaugurated on 16 July 1950, four years after the first stone was laid (two years after the construction work actually started). 10,000 people were present at the opening, including General Anthony McAuliffe. 11 The monument very quickly became an important place for officials and celebrities visiting Bastogne. It has been visited by Princess JoséphineCharlotte, in April 1949 (before the inauguration), King Baudouin in 1951, 1969 and 1994, King Albert in 1979 and 2004, Prince Bernhard of the Netherlands in 1984, Neil Armstrong in 1987, Grand-Duke Henri and the Grand-Duchess of Luxembourg in 2005, etc. The Mardasson Memorial is now one of the symbols of Bastogne. It is undoubtedly one of the best known Belgian monuments on the other side of the Atlantic. Its imposing construction symbolises and will forever symbolise the stubborn resistance of the American soldiers, fighting for the freedom of everyone. Opposite the Mardasson is the Bastogne War Museum. The Bastogne War Museum,opened in March 2014, is a leading centre of remembrance that presents the history of the Second World War from its origins up to the autumn of 1944, with an in-depth exploration of the Battle of the Bulge. Within a dynamic, immersive set design, visitors can see and hear the story of this episode in our history, backed up by artefacts, vehicles and multimedia installations. The cafeteria at the Bastogne War Museum is the perfect place to have your first stop on the route. It sells cold drinks and snacks. The museum also has a “bikes welcome” label, offering a series of special services for cyclists such as a bike park, a small emergency repair kit, a first aid kit, tourist information, etc., all available on request. Right next to the Mardasson, not far from the Bastogne War Museum car park, is the Eagle statue of the 101st Airborne Division, representing the emblem of the United States of America. 12 This statue, which was made and donated by Robert Remacle, a native of Bastogne, is dedicated to all the American soldiers whose units were encircled during the siege of Bastogne from 21 to 26 December 1944, during the Battle of the Bulge. These units were part of or under the orders of the glorious 101st Airborne Division. At the inauguration in 2008, the local authorities, our institutions and Sam Fox, the United States Ambassador, were all present. The guard of honour consisted of soldiers from the 101st Airborne Division, who came in specially for the occasion from Fort Campbell (Kentucky). SET DESIGN - RECONSTRUCTION OF A BASTOGNE CAFÉ, 1940-45 © Bastogne War Museum If you have chosen to ride Route 1 (5km), the route finishes here, and you can take the same route back to the Tourist Office, where you must give back your bike. 13 ROUTE 2 : 10 KM ROUTE 3 : 20 KM STAGE 4: TOWARDS THE BOIS DE LA PAIX From the Mardasson, the route then continues along the charming little Route de Bizory. How do you get there? At the end of the Bastogne War Museum car park, turn right onto the tarmac road known as the Route de Bizory. Between the car park you’ve just left and the village of Bizory, just after the farm along the road, have a look at the fields on your right. In these vast fields to your right, Adolf Hitler’s plane landed on 17 May 1940 when the Führer came to personally inspect his troops in Bastogne. A few years ago these same fields were also used as a parachuting zone during ceremonies to commemorate the siege of Bastogne in December. After riding for 2km on this country road, you will reach an intersection in the centre of Bizory. Take the road on your left towards the Bois de la Paix (Wood of Peace), indicated on the road signs. After the intersection, you leave the Route de Bizory after 400m, taking the road on your right towards the Bois de la Paix again. After 700m, you will arrive at the entrance to the Bois de la Paix, on your left. The Bois de la Paix was planted to commemorate the 50th anniversary of the Battle of the Bulge. Around 4,000 trees are planted on 3 hectares of land, all species present in the Bastogne plateau. The trees were planted so that, when seen from the sky, the UNICEF logo can be seen: a mother and child, the symbol of universal tenderness. The wood is dedicated to the Belgian civilians and Allied soldiers who fought for the freedom of our country. The American veterans, on returning to the area that was the scene of their combat, placed a plaque with their name and unit at the foot of a tree. 14 Bois de la Paix seen from the sky, © Ville de Bastogne From the Bois de la Paix, retrace your steps to join the first crossroads (which leads into the Route de Bizory). Turn right. After 800m, on your left, you will see the monument to the 101st Easy CompanyBattle of the Bulge Memorial. 15 Monument of the 101st Easy Company-Battle of the Bulge Memorial, © Bastogne War Museum This Memorial pays special tribute to the 14 soldiers from this company killed in action during the Battle of the Bulge. The Easy company was the 5th company of the 506th parachutist infantry regiment of the American 101st Airborne Division during the Second World War on the European front. It was immortalised in the book by Stephen Ambrose, Band of Brothers, which was adapted into a TV series produced by Steven Spielberg and Tom Hanks. It was not the only “E” company, but it is the most famous, due to the book and the TV mini-series. This company took part in the defence of Bastogne by taking up positions in the Bois Jacques (Jacques Woods) nearby, at a time when the town was encircled by several enemy units. If you have chosen to ride Route 2 (10km), take the Ravel route next to the 101st Easy Company Monument. There is an entrance to the Ravel route - on your left as you face the monument - which will take you to the Gare du Sud in about 4km, where you can resume your original route back to the Tourist Office to return your bicycle. 16 By continuing your route, without taking the Ravel route, you will be on Route 3 (20 km). As you follow this route, you will gradually go deeper into the Bois Jacques (Jacques Woods), where some remains of the combat can still be seen. Photograph of the «fox holes» in the Bois Jacques, © Bastogne War Museum These hollows in the ground bear poignant witness to the harshness of the combat that raged during the months of December 1944 and January 1945. For the Easy Company and the other parachutist companies in position in the Bois Jacques (Jacques Woods, the aim was to stop the progress of the German units installed just a few hundred metres away from their positions. To shelter themselves from the violence of the combat, the American soldiers had no other choice but to dig “fox holes” in the ground to protect them from the enemy fire and artillery bombardments that were particularly deadly in the forest as they tore up the trees. 17 You will see a small car park on your left, near the monument, where you can leave your bikes so that you can walk between the trees and look for the rifle holes which are still visible on the base of the trees. When you collect your bikes from the car park again, you will see a commemorative monument made by the Bastogne artist Robert Remacle in 2015 to pay tribute to the various combatants who suffered in these places during the winter of 1944-45. For unknown reasons, this monument was vandalised several times in the months following its inauguration. The authors of this deplorable act have not yet been identified. 18 ROUTE 3 : 20 KM STAGE 5: TOWARDS THE GERMAN MILITARY As you come out of the car park, turn left. On taking the tarmac road again, the route continues towards Foy, following a pleasant road between fields. Once you arrive at the town, do not take the first road on your left, instead take the second which will lead you to a crossroads with traffic lights a few hundred metres further on. This crossroads is crossed by the national road (N30). Like many other places in the Bastogne area, Foy suffered badly during the Battle of the Bulge. On the morning of 20 December 1944, elements of the 304th Panzergrenadier regiment seized the village, pushing back the American parachutists who were in position there. During the afternoon, they tried to take the town back, to keep the national road (N30) open for American troops from the “Desobry team” so they could retreat from Noville, where they had been under German attack for two days. When the column from Noville arrived in Foy, it came under German fire. Despite losses, the GIs responded, whilst continuing their retreat to Bastogne. The village was taken back house by house by the parachutists of the 101st Airborne Division on 13 January 1945. The following night, German attacks on the village intensified, forcing the GIs to leave the locality at dawn. Three hours later, the parachutists, assisted by tanks from the 11th Armored Division and supported by powerful artillery, finally freed Foy. As you stop at this traffic light, have a look at the old farm on your left which, to a keen eye, still bears signs of the impact of bullets and shrapnel from the heavy fighting that took place in Foy. Take care crossing the national road (N30) towards Recogne and then take the smaller road that, after 900 metres, will take you to the German military cemetery of Recogne. 19 This cemetery was created shortly after the battle and contains the bodies of around 6,807 German soldiers and officers. Six German soldiers are laid beneath each of the little rustic granite crosses, and their names are engraved on the stone if they were able to be identified. For the 1,300 unidentified soldiers buried at Recogne, many of the crosses bear the words “Ein deutscher Soldat” (A German soldier). Originally, on the other side of the road, there was a cemetery containing the bodies of the American soldiers killed in the region during the conflict. In 1948, the American graves were transferred to other military cemeteries in Belgium, Luxembourg, France, the United States and even Italy! German military cemetery in Recogne, © Bastogne War Museum 20 In 1954, the Belgian and German governments signed an agreement giving the Volksbund Deutsche Kriegsgräberfürsorge (German War Graves Commission) the responsibility of maintaining the German graves in Belgian territory. Work to develop the site was started the same year. An enclosure wall and a chapel made from pink sandstone (basalt) from Eifel, with interior walls in slate stone, were built. Visitors who look at the ages of the soldiers buried in the cemetery might be struck by the youthfulness of the combatants, explained by the fact that the Battle of the Bulge took place towards the end of the Second World War when whole generations had been decimated and so even younger or even older soldiers were being recruited. The German military cemetery at Recogne is now a listed public civil heritage site in Wallonia. 21 ROUTE 3 : 20 KM STAGE 6 : THE AMERICAN INDIAN MONUMENT After this stop, continue towards Recogne (on your left as you leave the cemetery) towards “La Ferme des Bisons” (Bison Farm) (follow the road signs). After a hundred metres, take the first turning on the left. On your right, on the other side of the field, you will see the unusual ranch known as “La Ferme des Bisons” (Bison Farm). Depending on the season, you may be able to see a herd of North American bison romping about. Turn right for 800m and you will then see a dirt track that leads, after a hundred metres, to the American Indian Monument, on the left side of the road. (N.B.: this dirt track is not suitable for electric bicycle users). This monument was built to commemorate the 50th anniversary of the Battle of the Bulge. To mark the occasion, the idea was put forward to include native American representatives at the ceremonies, in order to pay tribute to the American Indian soldiers who died defending Bastogne. Several hundred American Indian soldiers were killed in December 1944. This is explained by the fact that in all armies, the front line combatants are essentially recruited from the poorer sections of the population. In the United States, it was not unusual to find many American Indians in the shock troops. To continue your route, retrace your steps to the junction near the Ferme des Bisons and turn right to go past the German cemetery of Recogne again. Having passed the cemetery, take the first road on the right (near the village school). 22 ROUTE 3 : 20 KM STAGE 7: RETURN TO BASTOGNE: THE PARACHUTE FIELDS Once on this charming little path, you can continue your route for 2.3 km through fields and forests, enjoying the beautiful landscape of the region. At the end of the path, you will arrive at the National Road (N30). Turn right, taking the cycle path along this road. Continue for 1.8 km. This part is definitely the most dangerous on the route but the risks are reduced if you stay on the cycle path. Having passed the water tower on your right, you will arrive at a dangerous junction. You will be overlooking a series of fields on the same side. These fields, at the north entrance to Bastogne, form the “Sans-Soucis” zone. It was in this zone, from 23 December 1944, that a large part of the parachute missions took place, in order to resupply the Bastogne garrison surrounded by the Germans. Continue straight ahead on the N30 towards Bastogne and Luzery, a village you will reach after ten metres or so. Leave the N30, also known as the Chaussée de Houffalize, when it crosses Rue Du Doyard on the right hand side, just after the sign announcing that you are entering Bastogne (near the restaurant Le Coin Fleuri). Go down Rue du Doyard. At the end, turn left into Rue Sans-Soucis. After a hundred metres, turn right into Rue du Premier d’Artillerie. Then take the second road on the left. At the end, turn left and go down Rue de La Roche. 23 ROUTE 3 : 20 KM STAGE 8: THE BASTOGNE BARRACKS As you continue down Rue de La Roche, you will pass in front of the Bastogne Barracks. The Bastogne Barracks have been used as a World War Two Interpretation Centre since 2010. General McAuliffe’s quarters during the siege of Bastogne were in the cellars of these military barracks. Here, on 22 December 1944, the General commanding the forces surrounded at Bastogne famously entered the history books by refusing the demand for surrender from the Germans by responding with the word “NUTS!” Free guided tours lasting around two hours are organised from Tuesday to Sunday, at 10am and 2pm (2pm only in winter). This site is also dedicated to restoring and conserving the vehicles and machines owned by the Royal Army Museum, which gives you the opportunity to see some impressive military vehicles. As you continue your route, you will reach a roundabout on which a cyclist is represented. This is the “Liège-Bastogne-Liège” roundabout, the name of a cycle race that takes place in the region every year, which you passed at the beginning of the route. Go onto the roundabout and, between the second exit and the Ravel route, enter the courtyard of the Institut Notre-Dame du Séminaire (INDSE). During the battle, this Catholic college sheltered civilians and housed an American campaign hospital. A few weeks after the battle, a fire, probably started accidentally by careless GIs, ravaged part of the building. As you enter the courtyard, a cross serves as a reminder of the accidental explosion of a mine truck in January 1945. Retrace your route back to the roundabout. After the second exit (Route de La Roche), take the Ravel route. Follow the Ravel route to the Gare du Sud. 24 PARCOURS 3 : 20 KM STAGE 9: PLACE MCAULIFFE AND RETURNING THE BIKES When you arrive at the Gare du Sud, return towards the Athénée Royal Bastogne-Houffalize, then turn directly left into Rue Pierre Thomas. By continuing straight ahead you will reach the Place McAuliffe where the Tourist Office is located and where you can admire a Sherman tank. Installed on the Place McAuliffe since 1948, the Sherman is an unmissable sight for visitors to Bastogne. Belonging to the 11th Armored Division, this Sherman tank was halted in its journey to Renuamont, a village to the North-West of Bastogne, on 30 December 1944, after a German attack. Its crew was captured by the Germans and taken to a prisoner of war camp. In November 2006, the tank was removed from its base for the first time to undergo a complete overhaul at the Rocourt Arsenal. Repainted and coated with metal and phosphate, it was returned to the Place McAuliffe on 23 May 2007. For all the people of Bastogne, this Sherman is a symbol of victory, deliverance and freedom. On the base of the tank is a plaque in tribute to the 406th Bomb Squadron. This American air force unit played an important role in the battle, supporting the defenders of Bastogne by bombarding the German lines and their rearguards. On the other side, again on the base, another plaque pays tribute to the men of the 10th Armored Division for their part in the fighting in the Ardennes, in particular in the Bastogne region. Part of this unit gave significant support to the parachutists of the 101st Airborne Division during the Battle of the Bulge. Next to the tank is a bust of Brigadier General Anthony McAuliffe. An officer temporarily in charge of the 101st Airborne Division in December 1944, he commanded all the American troops encircled at Bastogne. During the siege of Bastogne he rejected the demand for surrender from the Germans with the famous response “Nuts!” Note the Liberty milestone, number 1145, also near the tank. 25 PRACTICAL INFO Bastogne War Museum Colline du Mardasson 5 B-6600 Bastogne Belgique [email protected] www.bastognewarmuseum.be T : +32 (0)/61.21.02.20 Join us Attraction touristique Tourist Office Place McAuliffe 60 B- 6600 Bastogne Belgique [email protected] www.bastogne-tourisme.be T : +32 (0)/61 21 27 11 RATES Adults Mountain bike hire 1/2 day 12€ Entrance to Bastogne War Museum 12€ TOTAL 24€ Children (6-18 years) Mountain bike hire 1/2 day 5€ Entrance to Bastogne War Museum 7€ TOTAL12€ 26 Do not throw on public areas - 2016 We hope you have enjoyed your bike ride through the campaigns of Bastogne! R.E: B.Remiche, Rue des Anciens Etangs 44-46, B-1190 Brussels After completing this ride through the heart of history, all you need to do now is return your bikes to the Tourist Office, in the centre of Place McAuliffe. Ville de Bastogne
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