REVELL 05015 German Submarine VII C "Wolf Pack"
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The U-Boot type VII-C is the best known German submarine from World War II. It was built in large
numbers and upgraded several times. This type represents the ultimate high point of the submarine era.
Equipped with four bow and one stern torpedo the VII-C was a fearsome weapon. The task assigned to
the German submarines was trade warfare. They were designed to disrupt England's supply lines and
innumerable sunken ships bear witness to that. The "Grey Wolves" of the Atlantic made war on escort
convoys and hunted in packs. Accustomed to success, however, the period from 1943 was devastating
for the German submarines: the hunters became the hunted. New search equipment tracked the German
submarines mercilessly and turned them into steel coffins for innumerable German submarine crews. The
type VII-C submarine illustrates the rise and fall of German submarine warfare. Technical data: length
67.1 m, two 2,800 hp diesel engines gave a top speed of 17.6 knots surfaced, 2 battery driven electric
motors gave a top speed of 7.6 knots dived, minimum depth 100 m, crew approx. 44 men. Model-details:
- Generally new mould - 2 optional conning tower variants - Can be built with or without net saw - Finely
detailed hull showing rivets and welds - Imitation flood valves and vents - Accurate representation of deck
details - Torpedo hatches optionally open or closed - Specific decals for various versions: U-552 (early
and late version), U-69, U-82, U-203, U-253 Colors: 57 69 76 77 90 92 330 364
Model details Original details
Scale 1:72
No. of parts 135
Length 933 mm
Skill Level 5
Type description WWII German submarine
Year/Period 1939-1944
Origin D
Engine capacity 2,800 hp
Engine 2 Diesel Engines
Speed 17.6 kn
Length 67.1 m
Depth/Draft
MiniMum Depth 100m
The modification of this particular model to radio control is fairly straightforward. Most of
the assembly work is on the conning tower, and there are several variations of that in
the kit. Refer to the Revell documentation and choose which version you would like to
construct, then read through the entire document, following the steps and picking out
the various parts you need for your model. You might even like to mark the part number
on the sprue tree with a felt tip marker. You are NOT going to follow the Revell build
exactly, as there are several things that need to be changed to make the rudder and
planes actually function.
REVELL 05015 German Submarine VII C "Wolf Pack"
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Some additional parts will become available in due course in a D&E Fittings Kit.
As you remove each part from the extrusion tree, take a small file (nail file etc) and
carefully sand down all the nubs from the broken sprue.
Wash each part with Soft Scrub, a liquid detergent abrasive cleaner. This will remove all
the release agent from the extrusion process.
INSTALL THE REAR PLANES CONTROL ARM
Take the two hull halves, 10 and 11, and look for the rear planes holes below the rudder.
A control arm with shaft has to be inserted in
the very narrow keel section, and this area
has to be opened up to allow the arm to
move. Using a Dremel tool with a sanding
drum, carefully remove a layer of material on
both hull halves. The control arm needs to
move through approximately 90 degrees,
note the area to be sanded has been
highlighted with a black marker pen.
Here are the two halves of the hull, with the
control arm for the rear planes installed.
The shaft has a thin strip of brass soldered
to it, which swivels inside the thin keel
section. Without the inner section of keel
removed, the two halves will not close
together.
REVELL 05015 German Submarine VII C "Wolf Pack"
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Here is the control arm installed before the
two hull halves are irreversibly glued
together. The control arm shaft is 1/8” rod,
so the holes need to be opened slightly with
a 1/8” drill. The arm has to move from the
black line to the position in the photograph
below.
Right, the two hull keel areas are placed
together to check for free operation, and that
they close together correctly.
The Rear Planes need to have the original plastic
shafts carefully removed, noting their exact position.
Drill a hole to accept the Control Arm shaft in each
plane with a 1/8” drill about 3/8 -1/2” deep. Ensure the
drill runs in parallel with the leading edge of the plane.
Later, the planes will be glued onto the shaft using
either Superglue or RTV.
REVELL 05015 German Submarine VII C "Wolf Pack"
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INSTALLING THE TORPEDO TUBES
There are three different configurations of torpedo tube openings. Here we show the
option with no doors. Glue the parts together and then glue onto one half of the hull.
Using Solvent Weld, bond the
rear keel together with the
Rear Planes Shaft installed.
Once this is set and the control
arm operates correctly, finish
bonding the two halves of the
boat together using clamps and
leave overnight to set.
Now is a good time to make the boat stand supplied with the kit.
Before gluing the hull halves together permanently, consider opening limber holes and
installing propeller shafts and stern tubes.
BALLAST WEIGHTS
The molded Ballast Weights should be test fitted, and if necessary, sanded down to
ensure a tight fit into the keel spaces.
BALLAST WEIGHTS CONTAIN POISONOUS LEAD SHOT,
so wear a mask and gloves etc, when cutting, sanding and handling.
Glue the weights into their respective positions using RTV silicone.
REVELL 05015 German Submarine VII C "Wolf Pack"
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LIMBER or DRAINAGE HOLES
This Static Diving Submarine operates with the hull flooded with water. The only dry
parts are within the Sub-driver itself. Water in the ballast tank needs to flow freely in and
out of the hull, to change the boatʼs displacement weight. Holes need to be cut to allow
plenty of free flow of water, and also to allow air/gas to escape.
Fortunately, Revell have paid good attention to these ʻlimber holesʼ, and we can make
use of them.
On the keel, amidships, there is a recessed area with some raised rectangular pieces.
As these are fairly unobtrusive, you may consider opening these rectangles up to assist
drainage. as there are few other obvious holes in the center of the boat.
There are numerous depression denoting holes in the stern area. Remember to cut out
as many as you can on the underside and along the waterline.
REVELL 05015 German Submarine VII C "Wolf Pack"
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Using a Dremel tool with the motor running at a slow speed
to avoid melting the plastic, carefully cut out each hole.
It is advisable to use a pointed burr tool or a small drill
initially and make a hole at either end of the slot, then work
the tool between the two holes. The thicker sides of the hole
will help guide the tool bit.
Here is a Burr kit available from
Caswell Inc.
Finish off the hole carefully with a small
jewelerʼs file.
Depending on your level of skill and patience, you can cut out all the smaller holes if you
feel so inclined, but as long as you have the larger ones done, the boat should function
adequately.
An alternative technique, suggested by Kevin Price, is as follows.
Hold the hull up to the light, and using a marker
pen, trace out the line of the holes you wish to
open up.
Then, from the inside, sand along the lines until
you break through the thinner plastic layer. A little
work with a small file will clean up the edges.
This work is best carried out before the hull halves
are bonded together.
REVELL 05015 German Submarine VII C "Wolf Pack"
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Installing the Propeller Shafts
This work is probably best done before the hull
halves are glued together.
Glue the stern tubes
together, and then ream
them out with a small round
file, to accept the propeller
shaft.
The shaft is 1/8” diameter.
The Stern Tubes need to be
glued onto the hull, but a
small area of the hull needs
to be removed to let the
shaft through.
Lay the stern tube into
position and mark around it,
then cut out the area,
leaving an approx 1/16” lip.
Do a ʻdry fitʼ before gluing the stern tubes
into place. The propeller shaft and the Shaft
Strut (28) must line up.
Discard the Revell shafts (26 & 27).
Once the hull halves are glued together the
Shaft Strut can be glued into place.
Pictured right is the completed
prop shaft assembly.
REVELL 05015 German Submarine VII C "Wolf Pack"
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Pictured here are two brass rods as shafts, two 1/8” id
brass tubes, and the Propeller Strut as supplied in the
kit. The brass tubes are slid over the rods and then
place into position through the hull and into the
Propeller Strut.
The Propeller Shaft Strut must have the shaft holes
drilled out to 1/8” diameter hole.
Once the ʻdry fitʼ of the shafts & brass tubes,
Shaft Strut, and Stern Tubes is successful,
and there is free operation of the shaft, mix
up a little Epoxy Quickwood
and press this around the brass tubes, forming
it against the hull.
Make sure you clean the plastic hull areas
thoroughly. A wipe of Plastic-weld solvent
bonder prior to application of the epoxy will
enhance adhesion. The Quickwood should fill
in the hole in the hull cut out to let the shaft
through.
REVELL 05015 German Submarine VII C "Wolf Pack"
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THE GUN AND CONNING TOWER
Make up the gun as per Revell instructions.
There are several options on the Conning
Tower, so you need to make a determination
as to which boat you are modeling.
Make up the Conning Tower, independent
of the deck.
You may wish to keep the Gun and Conning Tower separated from the deck by using
small earth magnets to fix them. This is a useful option, as it allows you to place the
delicate tower aside when shipping and it keeps the box smaller.
Small disc shaped earth magnets can be recessed into the deck by drilling the correct
sized hole, then bonding the magnet in with Superglue. An ideal place for one magnet is
under the small nose protrusion arrowed
here.
A small amount of Epoxy Putty, such as
Quickwood from Caswell Inc. can be used
to hold the other magnets in place on the
tower and gun. This material is easy to use and very lightweight.
It is also worth considering cutting out
the conning tower outline so that by simply
removing the conning tower, you can
access the Sub-driver and gas charging
unit.
If you decide to do this, make sure you cut
out leaving at least 1/8” inside the line.