Dig Hole
Dig a hole in the
center of this circle
that is 1-foot larger in
diameter than the
root ball. Dig only as deep as the distance from the root collar to
the bottom of the roots. Maintain undisturbed soil beneath the root
ball to prevent the tree from settling.
Place Tree
Carefully place the tree in the center of the hole. Some trees require that a container or
basket be removed (see Planting B&B Trees and Planting Containerized Trees for
specific information on removing baskets and containers).
Backfill
Check that the tree is at the right depth and plumb. Fill the hole with the soil that was
removed. As the backfill is added, lightly push the soil around the roots or water the soil
to eliminate air pockets. Backfill to the height just below the root collar. To prevent
compaction, do not pack soil after you water.
Mulch
Add 4 inches of organic mulch on top of the planting circle. Keep the mulch 4 inches
away from the trunk to prevent fungus from growing on the tree trunk.
Prune and Stake?
At the time of planting, limit pruning to the removal of broken or dead branches and
roots. Delay cosmetic pruning for a year. A tree should not be staked unless absolutely
necessary due to extremely windy conditions or high risk of vandalism.
Water
The last, and one of the most important things to do is to water the tree. Thoroughly soak
the soil around the tree. Water each day for the first week and less after that.
How to Plant Bare Root Trees
Bare root trees, trees with no soil on their roots, are an option for plantings of small to
medium-size deciduous trees and shrubs in the spring. Bare root trees are planted
following the steps outlined on page 112, with extra attention given to some areas.
Bare root trees must be kept cool and moist at all times. If the roots dry out for even a
short time, they can be damaged or killed. This is most important for the fine, hair-like
feeder roots. Store bare root trees with organic mulch, such as wood chips, that
completely covers the root system. Keep the roots damp. A shady location out of the
wind is best.
When moving the trees to the hole or container, keep them covered with mulch or a wet
burlap sack and move quickly. On a windy, sunny day, uncovered roots dry out and are
damaged in as little as 30 seconds. The perfect tree planting day is cool, calm and damp.
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Take care to plant trees before the roots dry out. Have the planting site prepared
before moving the tree so no time is wasted with the roots uncovered.
The hole must be large enough to spread all of the roots out. Do not bend or curve
them around, as this could cause root girdling, a potentially fatal condition.
Prune any broken roots with a sharp pruner. Do not leave torn or rough ends.
Identify the root collar. Keep the root collar right at grade level to maintain the
proper depth.
Keep the tree straight when backfilling. There is no root ball to hold the tree
straight, so take extra care when packing in the soil.
Occasionally, bare root trees need staking for the first growing season.
How to Plant Seedlings
Tree seedlings offer an attractive way to plant large numbers of trees affordably and
easily. Seedlings are available from a variety of sources and can often be obtained for
free. The small size of seedlings enables people of almost any age and ability to
participate in planting.
Seedlings are planted essentially the same way as larger trees, but with much less effort.
Dig a hole large enough to spread out the root system. Place the seedling in the hole,
being sure to spread out all of the roots without bending them. Be careful to place the tree
at the right depth when backfilling the hole. Mulch and water the seedling to finish the
job.
Maintenance of seedlings is limited to watering and weeding. The smaller root systems of
seedlings will dry out faster than larger trees so more frequent watering should occur with
care being taken not to over water. Tree seedlings are more likely to be affected from the
competition of weeds and grasses, so regular weeding of the planting areas and
replenishment of the wood chips is recommended.
Tree tubes are helpful in increasing survival rates of deciduous seedlings. These tubes
encourage growth and reduce damage by animals. In areas with high deer populations,
they can be essential. Tubes can substantially increase the success of seedling plantings,
but they will also
Water
When newly planted trees go without enough water, growth slows
to a crawl. This delays establishment and may even lead to the
death of leaves, branches, roots or the whole tree. Too often the
canopy of the tree ends up smaller than it was at the time of
planting. In this section we shed light on recent science-based
prescriptions for watering newly planted trees.
For the most part, trees can only take up water from soil that is in
direct contact with roots. Even in the best conditions, newly
transplanted trees use water from a relatively small volume of soil.
To make matters worse, roots of bare root, balled & burlaped, and
spaded trees are cut during transplanting. Their ability to absorb
water is compromised. Since container-grown trees grow in a
small volume of soil, they need daily watering the first few weeks
after planting just like other types of stock.
Within two to three days after spring or summer planting, the soil
around the roots of trees dries enough to impede root growth.
Newly transplanted trees in the Midwest benefit from daily
watering for the first one to two weeks. Apply 1 to 1½ gallons of
water for each inch of trunk diameter. After that, water trees every
two to three days for the next two to three months and then weekly
until established. The more closely you match your watering
frequency to the optimum, the quicker trees become established.
Reduce watering in cool, cloudy, or wet weather if the soil is
poorly drained (soil drains less than 3/4 inches per hour).
Eliminate daily irrigation in poorly drained soil.
Historically
treewatering
guidelines have
suggested watering
trees every 7 to 10
days with 1 to 1½
inches of water.
While this frequency
and amount of water
may work in some
situations, research
within the last five
years from the
Morton Arboretum
and the University of
Florida at
Gainesville suggests
more frequent
watering is necessary
for optimal tree
establishment.
For trees planted in the early spring or in the fall, delete daily
irrigation. Water every two or three days for a few months. Do the
same for trees planted where drainage is poor. After it rains, stop
watering until the rainwater drains from the soil. Stop watering in
the autumn once leaves fall from trees. Trees planted in winter
need little irrigation.
There are two things you can do to reduce the water requirements
of newly planted trees. This first is to plant smaller-sized trees.
Small trees have less root loss and recover faster than large caliper
trees. Secondly, put mulch over the soil after planting. Mulch
reduces evaporation and conserves water. An investment in
frequent watering helps insure against tree death and the cost of
replanting trees.
Irrigation Guidelines for Establishing Trees
For well- drained sites during the growing season in the Midwest
This section
contributed by
Richard Hauer,
Shade Tree Program,
Coordinator,
Minnesota
Irrigation Guidelines for Establishing Trees
For well- drained sites during the growing season in the Midwest
add significantly to the cost.
This section
contributed by
Richard Hauer,
Shade Tree Program,
Coordinator,
Minnesota
Department of
Agriculture.