A Perfect Cup of
Great java comes to
the Delaware River Highlands
“I
t astounds me that a restaurant might offer an amazing meal
but then serve a lousy cup of coffee,” says Michael Glatz,
executive chef at the Hotel Fauchère in Milford. “Coffee is often
the last flavor you leave with. Why not make sure that it is as
signature as the food?”
June 2007
His search for sources of excellent coffee
eventually led to the Electric City Roasting
Company in Scranton. Electric City’s slogan
is “It’s all about the bean,” because superior
beans are prerequisites of superior coffee.
Owner Mary Tellie definitely knows her
beans. A banking executive for 14 years,
Tellie has long loved coffee. In fact, while
she was still a banker she began an unusual
afterwork pastime: roasting green coffee
beans at home. Experimenting here, tinkering there, Tellie was in search of the perfect
roast, the ultimate cup of coffee. Finally,
in 2003, she created Electric City, and two
years later she started up Zummo’s Cafe.
36
OPPOSITE PAGE: Chef Michael Glatz of the
Hotel Fauchère brews Electric City coffee in a
French press.
MILFORD
Tellie takes pride in the quality of the food
served at Zummo’s, but “the main reason I
opened the café,” she explains, “was to show
what you can do with our coffee.”
She has succeeded, too. Andrea Filone,
proprietor of the Mount Haven Resort has
had cappuccino at Zummo’s that is “as good
as they make it in Florence.”
“Mary Tellie travels all over the world
to meet growers and obtain the best beans
possible,” says Glatz. “What really sells me
is that she is as passionate about coffee as I
am about food, and I have never met anyone
like that before.”
Tellie agrees that “passion attracts passion,” adding, “customers are excited about
what we do.” With a growing clientele and a
75 percent rate of repeat business, she does
indeed travel the world to buy the best. This
is important because even with the explosion
of gourmet coffee, quality beans are hard to
obtain, especially for smaller roasters. So
Tellie regularly visits farmers and brokers in
other counties, building relationships that
allow her continued and expanded access to
premium beans.
“Meeting the farmers is amazing and a
privilege,” she says. “Do you know the work
that goes into growing and picking a coffee
bean? To see the farmers sweat, the hard
work, it’s a real eye-opener. Meeting these
people really brings you down to earth.”
At any time Electric City offers five
blends of coffee, using beans from Central
and South America, Africa, and several locations in Indonesia. In addition, the company produces single-origin coffees, with
selections varying as available. But no matter where these coffees come from, they are
100% arabica beans.
Exiting Zummo’s Café in back, Tellie leads
me to a small yard with some trees, a fence,
and an unassuming garage to the right. The
garage is a space where one might expect to
(continued on page 39)
MILFORD
June 2007
By Matt Levine
37
(continued from page 37)
see a workbench or boxes filled with family treasures no one could bear to throw
out, but it is actually Tellie’s roasting plant.
Inside is a clean long table with four coffee roasters that make a gentle rattle. They
are heating the beans, and the colors slowly
change from green to tan to brown.
“These are convection hot air roasters,
not drum roasters,” Tellie explains. “Drum
roasters often burn the beans.” She confers
(continued on page 43)
The Real Seat of Democracy
Cool Cafés
Beans Roasting House,
Honesdale, PA House-roasted coffee,
wireless, a full menu and caramel cappuccino with whipped cream. Open past
midnight. 1139 Main St., 570.253.6990,
www.beansroastinghouse.com.
Beautiful Things & Coffee,
Milford, PA The art is indeed glorious,
as are the Kona and Jamaican Blue Mountain blends and—dare we say it—the
teas. 601 W. Harford St., 570.296.7369.
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38
MILFORD
CAFÉ TALK:
7th Street Coffee
ROME – The revered University of Bristol classicist Henry D.F. Kitto was once
asked to compare life in the ancient classical world with that of modern Britain.
His reply was that the ancients may have
had limited formal democracy, but they
could meet at the stoa or forum to argue
out their problems, whereas the British,
who take pride in their democratic ways,
spoke only across their picket fences.
Professor Kitto believed that yammering away, arguing, quarreling and joking
in a public arena constituted a real and
valuable road to democracy. The picket
fence did not.
If he had been American, Prof. Kitto
might have added that the Americans
have a formal democracy, but meet only
at lawn barbecues or at their clubs. The
implication in each case is that a person
is expected to have a lawn and a picket
fence or else belong to a club. And that is
what is wrong with our formal democracies: The architecture of our urban
life isolates people from others because
of their diverse standards of living. The
wealthy speak with the wealthy; the poor
speak with the poor; the postman may
ring twice, but speaks to no one.
So how do we get around this? My
idea is that today’s Roman forum is the
village café, which is one reason why this
visitor from far away enjoys coming to
Milford. Yes, the upscale restaurants and
hotels are terrific and the town itself is
a delight, but I am above all a fan of the
type of café where newspapers can be
read without paying extra, where a cappuccino won’t be so pricey it has to go
on a credit card, and where people smile
and—hoorah—actually say hello, even
to strangers.
Democracy here is played out at the
café table or, more correctly, café tables,
because the point is to partake in others’ conversations so as to enrich our
own experiences through understanding
more of the lives of others.
And that is just what happens at the
cafés in and around Milford. These are
places where the carriage trade diners
can tuck into a good meal, while locals
can stop by in a pickup truck and look
at the morning paper or chat over a cappuccino.
Ah, but what if you don’t feel like communicating? Either leaf through a book
or, well, just sit back, admire the art on
the walls, or gaze out the window. That,
too, is life.
-Judith Harris
Judith Harris, who lives in Rome, is a contributor to ARTnews and the author of
Pompeii Awakened: A History of Rediscovery (I.B. Tauris, London). She is currently writing a book whose working title
is Cappuccino: A Pope, A Palazzo, and
Other Roman Portraits.
Café Roxanna, Port Jervis, NY
Cozy café-restaurant with newspapers, magazines and fine cappuccino
made with Gavina coffee. 79 Pike St.,
845.856.4010.
Epiphany Coffee House,
Port Jervis Excellent Macristy beans
and a spiritual ambience. The website
says, “The aroma is captivating; the
flavor—divine.” 21 Pike St., 845.858.9967,
www.theepiphanycoffeehouse.com.
Mansour’s Grocery & Coffee,
Scranton, PA This café’s iced caramel latte could almost—almost—cool
global warming. 969 Prescott Ave.,
570.341.6673.
Narrowsburg Roasters,
Narrowsburg, NY Free-trade, organic
coffee, wi-fi, and a café con leche made in
a French press with steamed milk instead
of water. 25 Main St., 845.252.6688.
Port Java, Port Jervis Wi-fi, entertainment and a frosty dark roast on ice.
19 Front St., 845.858.4500.
7th Street Coffee, Milford Good
music, friendly ambience, and a swell vanilla velvet latte. Half the proceeds from
the “Cup of Joy” blend go to Survivors
Resources. 611 Broad St., 610.410.0870.
Zummo’s (Electric City Roasting
Company), Scranton, PA Great coffee brewed to show great beans at their
best. The café serves superior ice cream
and real food, too. 570.344.2715, www.
electriccityroasting.com/.
MILFORD
June 2007
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MY BLUE HEAVEN:
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(continued from page 39)
with coffee roaster Dave Clarke about the
timing of his latest batch.
Clarke, whose wife works at Starbucks (he
playfully claims she is a little brainwashed),
says, “Roasting and understanding coffee is
a science that requires patience.” Tellie adds,
“If you think that coffee will taste the same
every time you roast it, you’re kidding yourself. Coffee grows on trees, you know.”
When asked how coffee blends are formulated, Clarke tells me “creating a blend is
like creating a meal. You know which beans
taste good together, and you know which
ones don’t play well with each other.”
Mansour’s Grocery & Coffee in Scranton changed from Green Mountain Coffee
to Electric City blends about two years ago.
Manager Jay Seguin reports that the switch
has provided Mansour’s with “a fresher
product and one that customers prefer.”
Tellie loves that sort of feedback. What
next? She would like to expand her roasting facility. Her goal is not just to sell more
beans, but to continue creating new blends
and exploring her love for coffee. On the day
I visited, in fact, Tellie exclaimed that she
had just discovered another detail about the
art of steaming milk. As she happily put it, “I
learn something about coffee every day.”
(See coffee making tips on page 45.)
Matthew Levine, a veteran of the natural and
gourmet food business, is the editor-in-chief of
www.naturalbusinessnews.com, the leading
website devoted to reporting on the natural
products business for consumers, industry insiders and people who just like a good read.
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“First choose a really good coffee,” says chef Michael Glatz
of the Hotel Fauchère. “Nothing against Folgers, but buying from good
local roasters who care what they’re doing is always best. They use
higher quality beans, and they roast them better.”
“Don’t refrigerate beans,” says Mary Tellie. “Keep them on
the counter or in the freezer in an airtight container, because the
refrigerator just dries them out.”
“Start with 1.5 tablespoons per eight-ounce cup,” says
Daniel Ragland, coffee roaster at Electric City, “and adjust it up or
down depending on your taste.”
“Make just enough for now,” advises Glatz. “If you want more
later, make it then. Keep your coffee fresh.”
Use a thermal carafe rather than, say, a pot on a heated drip
machine, if making fresh coffee every 20 minutes is simply not an option.
Computerized
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“Use a French press,” says Glatz. “With drip coffee makers,
not every coffee grind gets evenly exposed to water. A French press
gives you a much better concentration of coffee and a better flavor.”
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“There is no single definitive blend for espresso,” says
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“Failing to keep equipment clean is one of the most
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Introducing...
45