Thank you for choosing a GV Cut’ n Ready Flat Pack. If you
have any questions or comments regarding your flat pack
please contact us on 03 5822 4344.
Do It Yourself Flat Pack Instructions
Tools you will need:
1.
Several carpenter’s levels or laser levels of different lengths
2.
Slats of wood for levelling
3.
Clamps to hold cabinets together. C-clamps do the job nicely
4.
Stud finder
5.
Hinges (if not included with Flatpack)
6.
Drawer pulls & door handles
7.
Sinks, faucets, or other fixtures you will replace at the same time
8.
Paint & replacement flooring
9.
Silicone
10. Basic power tools inc: circular saw, drill, jigsaw, screw gun
11. Screws for hanging cabinets
Preparation Steps:
1. Carefully measure and plan your space. If you are replacing existing cabinets, you may want to
use them as a pattern. You may also prefer to create a new layout to better suit your purposes.
2. Research material options for finish, styles & hardware you wish to use.
3. Draw a layout of your cabinet plans. It doesn’t need to look like something an architect would
draw but it should be enough to give you an idea of how everything will line up and fit together.
4. Check the cabinet heights, especially for upper cabinets. If you are especially tall or short, check
how far up you can comfortably reach. Many upper cabinets are designed to have an empty
space between the tops and a standard height ceiling, while others will extend all the way to the
ceiling.
5. If one of your cabinets will go over your sink or stove, make sure to allow space underneath if for
working and to attach lighting or rangehood.
6. Check how your rangehood will fit with any upper cabinets above the stove.
7. Check that upper cabinets line up appropriately with lower cabinets, and allow for windows and
other features in the wall.
8. Consider how you use your Kitchen (or other workspace). Does your layout make sense for you?
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Ready to Start
1. Obtain all your materials and supplies for the project. Make a list of what you need. Don’t forget
screws to screw the cabinets to the walls and shims with which to level the cabinets.
2. Empty the cabinets completely first. It is much easier to work inside them and remove them without
loose items rattling around inside.
3. Remove the old cabinets, if there are any to remove. At the back of the cabinets, you will generally
find screws or nails holding them to the walls.
4. Remove the doors & shelves before unscrewing the cabinets from the walls. Most shelves simply lift
off the pegs. Some may need to be unscrewed or pried off their supports.
5. Make certain that you support the upper cabinets somehow as you remove the screws that support
them. If the upper cabinets are a one-piece unit, you may have to separate them to avoid damaging
adjacent walls since there will be no room to turn them as you bring them down.
6. Paint the room and replace the flooring if you are going to do so. It is not necessary to run the
flooring under cabinets, but for some flooring materials, it is easiest to do the whole floor while the
cabinets are out. Do not replace boards until after the cabinets are installed. If you wish to install
wood or tile floors, consider the thickness of the floor material when you decide whether it should
go under the cabinets.
Hanging Upper Cabinets
1. First aspect of installation should be the upper cabinets. This is so you will not need to work over
the lower cabinets.
2. Assemble the cabinets, but do not put the doors on yet. Take the time to make sure that the
cabinets are assembled as securely, squarely and evenly as possible.
3. Use a stud finder to locate and mark the locations of the studs in your walls. Plumb down from
the ceiling and use a measuring tape to mark the height of the cabinet brace or rail you will fasten
though. Since the new cabinets will conceal the wall after they are installed, you can simply tap a
small nail through it to locate the studs. When you have found one, measure either 16 or 24 inches
to find other studs in your wall, since these are typical stud spacing’s.
4. Start on one end or in a corner and install the upper cabinets. There are two methods you can use
to install, either way, get help lifting and supporting the cupboard until they are screwed in.
5. A partner is required. Create a support jack by screwing a short length of a 2x4, or other scrap wood
across the end of another 2x4. Cover the end with an old towel to use as a cushion. Have your
helper use this T of wood with the bottom end against the floor, and the top against the bottom of
the cabinets to support the cabinets while you leave them and screw them to the wall.
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Hanging Upper Cabinets cont’d...
6. Calculate the distance from the edge of a wall cabinet to the stud behind it. Mark these spots on the
back of the cabinet, and drill pilot holes from the back of the cabinet. Be sure to allow for the “ears”
on the front of the cabinet. When you place the cabinet to the wall, you’ll know where the stud is.
7. Always secure the cabinets firmly to studs before loading them with their contents . Secure cabinets
to each other as well as the wall. Drill pilot holes in the cabinet frame and screw together with good
wood screws.
Installing Lower Cabinets
1. Begin work on the lower cabinets once the upper cabinets have been completed.
2. Mark the locations of your studs for the lower cabinets, then bring in the cabinets and set them into
place. Check which cabinet sits highest, perhaps due to a high spot in the floor. It is easier to shim
the others up to this height than to shorten the tall one.
3. Do a test fit and if the cabinets are backed make any cut-outs necessary for electrical outlets,
plumbing hook-ups etc.
4. Level the top of the cabinets by shimming under and behind them. Remember that you will install
a benchtop on the cabinets, so you want this reasonable level and all the joints to be flush. Look at
the appearance of the cabinet fronts and make sure those are even
5. Screw the lower cabinets to the wall, you can often screw right through the shims.
Installing Benchtops
1. The Benchtop should be the next task once the cabinets have been completed.
2. Test fit the Benchtop. Cut to length if required, and cut out the sink opening and the opening for
the stove if it is built in. You may need to cut the Benchtop short so that it will sit in between two
walls. If you allow a ¼ inch on the overall length you can silicone the ends after it is installed.
3. For post formed (laminate or particle board) Benchtops, you will get better results cutting it to
length with a “finish” or “plywood” blade rather than a ripping or combination circular saw blade.
4. Cutting with the Benchtop upside down will reduce chipping, but make sure you support the piece
until the cut is complete.
5. For cutting a sink opening, invert your sink at the location it will go, mark the outline of the outside
rim lightly with a pencil, then make another mark about 5/16 inch inside this line for your cut. Place
masking tape on the outside of the cut mark, and use a jigsaw to make your cut. If you cannot
“plunge” your jigsaw (starting inside the cut line), you may drill a ½ inch hole to drop your blade into
to start your cut.
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Installing Benchtops cont’d ....
6. Seal all cut surfaces of post formed benchtops before installing to prevent moisture from swelling
the material later if your silicone fails to seal.
7. Place the Benchtop on top of the lower cabinets. Screw it in from underneath, making sure that the
screws you use are not so long that they will break through the material to the top.
Silicone
1. Begin work on silicone once the Benchtop has been finished.
2. Apply silicone around the sink cut out and lower the sink into place. Check the fit and location, then
secure it into place with the brackets underneath. Apply silicone around the rim of the sink.
3. Apply silicone around the edges of the benchtop and between the back splash and the wall.
Final Steps
1. Install the oven
2. Install the cabinet doors & hardware and adjust the hinges so the doors hang properly.
3. Bring in and reinstall any other appliances you removed during the preparation steps.
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