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I L L US TR A TI ON S
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C O N TEN TS
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K I T C H N O F A F LAT
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v iii
Li s t
Illust rat ions
of
PA G E
C ASS RO L R A D O H T
F
C HI N A D I SH
R A GO U T D SH
SH
w EA D D I SH
O M L T PA N
COC OTT
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M A C A RO NI A ND M USH ROO M T M B AL
C U RR I D EGG S
C UT L TS A LA "A RD INI ER
SAVO U R ST W
F I SH C U T L T S
S M ALL G A M BI D S O N T OA T
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C AM C H S SALA D
CR SS SALA D
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PO L I SH D B ASS H A T R C O PP R T
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AND
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A M PS
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M O D EL
THE
K I TC HEN
I
INT RODUCT I O N
is i m perat ve in the s e days of h igh re n t s
in ci ti e s m ore e specially in the M etropolis
th at we re d uc e our hou s ehold imp e di m e n t a
as m u c h as p o ssibl e ; and n ot o nly m u s t we d o
th i s b ut we in u s t Simpl i fy our id e as c o nc er nin g
o u r st yl e of li v in g
W e b eg i n by a re duc t i o n
of roo m spac e whe n we ta ke a fl at as the fl at
p rofe ss e s to off er u s a hou s e and all i t s app u r
t enan ces in the m o s t c o mpac t for m
i t d oe s th i s
u nd ou b tedly but i t d oe s i t in miniature The
fl at whe n well b u ilt c o n ve ni e n t and art is t ically
arran ge d is a typ e of dwelling well s u i ted to
ci ty li fe Th at all fl ats are n ot su cc e ss fu l as
d wellin gs is n o fau l t of the syste m or plan b ut
the fa ul t of the j erry b u ild er who h as sac r i fi c ed
reas o n and qu ali ty to app earanc e All the sam e
whe n we h ave s ec u re d a fl a t th at re ally is
T
I
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B
Th e
2
Model Kit ch en
s o m eth ing m ore th an a b ric k and a h al f in
s olidi ty where the roo ms are well s uppli ed
wi th ai r and light the b at hroo m and water
s u pply in ac ti ve ord er and the b ack d oor is a
li ft wh ic h re ally work s we s till h ave to fac e
the fac t th at the s e c o n ve ni e nc e s are p re s e n t o n
a re duc e d scal e and th at the k i tc he n e specially
is the m o s t c ramp e d and re d uce d of al l Th i s
b e ing u nal tera b l e however i t is n o u s e Sigh in g
for wh at we cann ot h ave ; b etter is i t to try
an d ma ke s k ill ac h i eve the
e ff ec t of the spac e
and c o n ve ni e nc e we d e si re
Any o n e who h as s ee n the insid e of a s h ip s
k i tc he n or the c ook s d epart m e n t of a c orrid or
e xp re ss train w ill h ave marvelle d at the in ge n u i ty
wh ic h h as c o mpre ss e d s o m u c h intO s o fe w feet
of spac e and at the ord er w i th wh ic h every th i ng
is arranged And the c ooking th a t is d o n e here
is n ot o nly d o n e in a c ramped spac e u n der
travelling di ffi c ul ti e s b ut i t is d o n e fo r a n u mb er
s o large as to n e ce ssi tate the carry ing of a
quan t i ty of s tore s as well
O n e of the inc o n ve ni e nc e s fel t in a fl at is
wan t of lig ht in tho s e di v id ed spac e s app rop r iate d
to the k i t c he n ; and to the care l e ss mind th i s
is mad e a s u ffi ci en t reaso n for n egl ec t ing the i r
cle ansing As to th is p erh aps the b est reply th a t
c ould b e gi ve n is th a t wh ich George M acd o nald
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Introduct ion
3
ma ke s to a similar exc u s e whe n h e says There
was li ght e n ough for a cle an so u l d c ook to c ook
by and for o n e who w as n t cl ean so u l d n o
am ou n t of li ght wou ld h ave su ffi c ed
It is n e i ther wan t o f spac e no r wan t o f light
wh ic h n ee d deter u s fro m m ak in g a c o mpl ete
s ucc ess o f the fl at k i tc he n The Sk ill w i th wh ic h
we u se the m e ans we fi nd at o u r di sp o sal is the
te s t by wh ic h we m u st b e j u dge d
N o w Sk ill is la rg e l y a ma tter of adap ta t i o n
the adap tat i o n fi rs t o f id eas the n of m e an s Y ou
cann ot arrang e and plan and fur nis h the ki tc he n
of y our fl a t cc ording to the id eas th a t h ave
gover n e d the pl e nis h i ng s and the a rran ge m e n ts
o f the k i t c he n in the roo my o ld hou se in wh ic h
p ro bably y o u grew u p And eve n i f y o u h ad
spac e and mater ials at c o mmand you mi ght n ot
h ave the m e ans to d o so But whe n p rec o nc e i ve d
n ot i o ns h ave bee n do n e aw ay w i th and y o u h ave
b egu n to l ook ab out you for wh at a n ew era
h as p rovide d fo r i t s ow n requ i re m e n t s y o u w ill
s ee th at the c h ange of ideas is al together t o your
advan tage The n again the smaller spac e and
the fewer tool s you h ave at c o mmand m e an als o
a po ssibili ty o f red ucing the am ou n t of s ervic e
n ee d ed O n e maid a t the very m o s t two
will h ave to c ombin e the fu nc t i o ns o f cook
ki tc he n sc u ll ery and parlour maid all in o ne
,
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Th e
Model Ki tchen
It is eve n p o ssible i f y our fl a t is very sm all
th at y o u are calle d u p o n to b e y our ow n m aid
aid ed by out sid e help gi ve n o ccasi o nally Y our
s k ill therefore is b rought in to requ i si t i o n to s o
simpli fy l ab our th at no u nn ec e ssary steps n ee d
b e take n and all u nimportan t work avo ided
H ere agai n i t is the ad ap t a t i o n o f id e a s to m e a n
th a t make s all the di ff ere nc e betwee n c om fort
and disc o m fort H o wever I am no t d e si rou s
o f in tro d u cing
o u to the limi t at i o n s b ut t o the
y
capaci ti e s o f the k i tc he n b el o ng i ng t o y our fl at
to any fl at Y o u may b e qu i te ure th a t the
mind of the s h ip s c ook is no t set u po n a c o n
id erat i o n o f h is limi tat i o ns b ut rather u po n h is
capabili ti e s and the ir d e m o ns trat i o n
I h ave h in te d th a t a n ew era h as provid e d tools
and materials to u i t i t s ow n requ i re m e n t s ; th i s
is true and a b out s o m e of tho se too l s and ma ter ial s
i t is a perfec t d elig ht to th in k Happily fo r
u s there is no roo m in u r dimin ut i v e k i tc he n
for the he avy and c u m bers o m e pans w h ic h for
y e ars h ave mad e the c ook s t ask d ru dge y there
is very li ttl e c u pb oard spac e and no t ma ny shel ve s
But a d re s ser is ge n erally to b e fou nd as a per
man e n t fi xture and the r a nge fi e can b e ke p t
small b e ca u s e there is the fi xing fo r a g as c ooker
U u ally t o o the sa n i ta ry si n k is n e a tly e ncl o sed
and part o f he spac e allotte d f r c al s can b e
4
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o
o
I ntroduction
5
boarded O ff to hold b ru she s and the rougher
hou sehold tool s A S the pan try so call ed is
ofte n c ramp ed and no t s u ffi cie n tly ve n tilate d fo r
the p rop er kee pi ng of food I wou ld h ave y ou
“
l ook u p o n the Al aska refr ig erator as an indis
pe n sabl e pi ec e o f fu r ni ture here If there is roo m
fo i t t o s t and o n the outer la ndi ng i t is b etter
-
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r
S
,
H A LLOW C O A
I O N N G TA L
UP B
R
I
-
B
RD
E,
TH
WI
ETC
BR
O
O M-R
A
C K.
.
there ; i f no t i t m u st h ave its c or n er som ewhere
A sm all k ni fe cl e ani ng mac h in e is an other n e c e s sa ry
in ve s tm e n t as a t im e and l ab our saver ; a v ege
tabl e rac k is a co n tri b utor to ord er and a pre
ve n ter o f w a ste ; a mi nc er is als o g re a tly to b e
de si re d as a t im e and sc rap saver And there are
o n e or t wo other pa te n t in ve n t i o n s wh ic h I rega r d
.
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Th e
6
Model Ki t chen
as indispe nsabl e from the p o in t of v i ew of t im e
—
and lab our savers suc h as vegetabl e c utters and
c ru shers an egg b eater and a frui t sto n er The s e
w ill b e referre d to again in d etail b ut wh at I wan t
to make cl ear n ow is th a t the k i tc he n of the fl a t
is the plac e ab ove all others w here we n ee d to
make u s e of every in ve n ti o n c ulina ry and other
wi se wh ic h w ill li ghte n lab our and e c o n o mi se
s torage
H av ing banis he d all thoug ht s of po s se s si ng
a ki tc he n equ ipm e n t of the ortho dox pattern in
h ining c opp er or t in as well as h av in g c o n
dem ned the familiar b lac k i ro n pan wh a t a re
we go ing to p ut in the i r plac e ? I wan t y o u t o
—
l ook b ut no t too c ovetou sly—at so m e c h ar m
ing di she s in g ree n and b row n fi re proof c h ina ;
the n a t the sa u c e pans in grey gra ni te ware or
al u mi ni u m the n at the clay t rrines and the b row n
s to n ew are s tew pan s of Br i tis h manufac ture The
t rr ines of F re nc h e a rthe n w a re glaz e d in id e a re
b e i ng stoc ke d by al l o u r large i ro n m o ngers ; in
the op e n market s ab ro ad y ou can pic k the m u p
for a few pe nc e eac h The se w ill b e y our c ook
ing ute nsils i f y ou are w i se ; b ut y u w ill b u y
the m a few at a tim e addi ng m ore acc ordi ng as
n s p o ss e ss y et
o u fi nd o u t the i r u se s
The
s
e
pa
y
—
s
th is further m er i t b ey o nd all other na m ely th at
they are the ms el ve s sugge s t i ve of id eas y o u can
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Introduction
7
h ardl y fail to c ook and ma ke th ings wh ic h b oth
look and tas te well whe n y ou u s e them M ore
over whe n y ou are c ook i ng in a dis h of th is
k ind you are spared the trou bl e of trans ferr ing
it s c o n te n t s to an other b efore b r inging to tab l e
as the in te n t i o n is fo r them to b e carri e d in
s traig ht from the s tove thu s e ns uring th at the
“
foo d c ooke d in t h em sh all be piping hot
In
foll ow i ng c h ap ter s I h ave g i ve n d etail e d direc
t i o ns for u sing the p rincipal ute nsils of th i s order
wherefore i t is u nn ece ssary to say m or e ab out
the m here e xc e p t a word in regard to the i r c o s t
Th is is but very li ttl e m ore in p rop ort i o n th an
th at of the ordinary make s of lin e d i ro n or t in
sau c epans ; i t is o nly whe n we c o m e t o the
fanci fu l and or nam e n tal ma ke s Of gam e pi e and
sou ffl e cas e s
th at we re ac h m ore exp e ns e b ut
the se can b e add e d or l eft out as m ean s and
ci rc u m stanc e s all ow
H ere and n ow I wou ld e m p h at ically e nd or se
the u se of all pate n t in ve n t i o ns in the s h ap e o f
cleaning helps ; of su c h at any r ate as prove
the m selve s worth y of the m eri t s claim e d for
the m I d o no t m e an th a t y o u should b e be
gu ile d by every advert i se m e n t b ut ra ther ta ke
ap o s tolic advic e and p rove all th ings holdi ng
fast th at wh ic h is true
To gi ve the m the i r d ue
all the s e are b rought out w i th the in te n ti o n o f
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Th e
8
Model Ki t chen
lighte ni ng lab our and m o s t of the m d o a grea t
d eal towards i t "u st to m en ti o n b ut o n e or
t wo am o n g s t the hu m b l e s t of s u c h hou s ehold
“
—
helps as example s we h ave in Vim a wo n
derfu l a ssis t an t for the cl e aning of sa u c e pan s and
al l
e nam el l e d ware ; i t will re m ove the g rea se
and s tain s fro m earthe n ware better th an any th i ng
els e I k n ow and p o lis h c overs or ta ke the stai n s
,
.
”
,
,
O L AIL
T WE
-R
.
‘
fro m s tee l k ni ve s w i th s o li ttl e efi o rt n ee ding
b ut to be sp r in kle d o n a damp cl oth and ru bbe d
o n The w as h ing o f d u ster s and cl oth s h as
b ec o m e qu i te an easy matter sinc e F el s N ap th a
so ap was b roug ht out ; and so i t is w i th a sc ore
of other th ings It is a goo d ru le to c o nd e m n
n o n e u n tri ed The val ue of Sel v y t t cl oth s for
p oli sh ing p urpo se s we all k n ow b ut the sam e
cl oth s after wash ing make the m o s t admi rable
d u s ters O ld n ew spapers are b etter th an any
cl oth or l eather for the cl e aning of w ind o w pan e s
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I ntroduct ion
9
and c o mm o n sal t sp rin kl e d over carpets ma ke s
the i r swee ping easi er and refre s he s the c olour s
I n a fl at m ore th an anywhere els e o ne h as to
kee p cle an as m u c h by p reve n t i o n as by th e
ac tu al p roce ss of cl e aning M u c h s wee pi ng m erely
s ucc eeds in displacing di rt fro m o ne part to
d eposi t i t in a nother ; I would advocate as li ttl e
s wee pi ng w i th lo ng h andl e d broo ms as may b e
and m ore u s e of a damp e n ed du s ter and of cl oth s
for w iping over carp ets and floors F or c arp et s
and rugs a woolle n cl oth wru ng out of h o t water
in to wh ic h a li t tl e amm o nia h as bee n p ut re m ove s
the d u s t m uc h m ore e ff ec tu ally than any s wee p
ing or b ru s h ing To pic k u p l oo s e b i ts and
re m ove foot mark s or di rt in plac e s is b etter th an
to l et d u s t li e u n t il a regu lar t im e for cleaning
c om es rou nd ; the fur ni ture is spared and s o are
the m ouldings and e dge s Of d oors for i t is rou nd
the s e th at d u s t d ri ft s and c ollec ts W he n swee p
ing h as to b e d o n e l et all the fur ni ture be c arefully
c overe d and before u nc overing i t gi ve a tte n ti o n
fi r s t to the c or nic e s and m ouldin g s w ipin g every
where w i th the damp cloth b efore other d u s ting
b egins
U nl e ss s o m e sp e cial ru l e p revails in the fl a t
as to the re m oval of waste refu s e and ashes a
cl o se d sani tary d u s t b in wh ic h can b e rem ove d
b odily and re pl aced a t sta ted tim e s is a n ece s si t y
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Th e
IO
Model Ki tchen
I n s om e bl o c k s of b u ildi ngs the reg ulat i o n s are
s u ffi ci e n tly stringe n t to p reve n t any ann oyanc e
in other s there is j u s t as gre at laxi ty and there
fore the gre ater n ee d for tak i ng p ro p er care and
precauti o n s
s
u
t
a
wor
d
here
b
efore
we
pl
u
ng
e
in
to
"
min uter d et ails a b out the n eed for careful organi
sati o n as to syste m and m ethods of work th a t
exi st s in a fl a t eve n m ore part ic u larly th an in
—
a hou s e th at is i f work is to go sm ooth ly
and the limi tat i o n s o f spac e are n ot to ca u s e
fr ic ti o n There m u s t be a c o mp rehe nsi o n o n the
part of the mi stre ss of wh at i t is p o ssi bl e and
wh at i t is n ot p o ssi bl e for a singl e pai r of
h ands to ac h i eve b ut also a fi rm insis te nc e u po n
a li t tl e ex tra fastidi ou s care b ei ng gi v e n n ot o nl y
as to the u se of th in g s b ut al so as to the p re
of sm ells Few s erv an t s care m uc h
v e n t io n
ab out the c o n tri vanc e s and i nve n ti o ns wh ich
d eli ght a mi nd acc u sto m e d to ord er and r efi ne
m e n t ; they p refer the rougher and readi er
m ethod s and th in k th at i f they are willi ng to
cl ea n di rt away they h ave a ri g ht to m ake i t fi r st
O nly a mi stre ss wh o hersel f k n ows the v al ue of
t im e and lab our can b e pat i e n t e n oug h to di re c t
and insis t o n right m etho ds be ing fo ll owed The
ass oci at i o n w i th her help b ec o m e s in a fl at
rather m ore cl o s e th an in a hou s e : o n th is
,
,
.
,
,
,
,
.
,
,
.
,
,
,
.
.
,
,
Th e
I2
Model Ki t chen
—
acc ou n t i t c all for sp ecial watchfuln e ss a watc h
fulne ss th a t wh il e b e ing k indly let s n oth ing lip
and ab ove all th at all ow s n o familiari ty sinc e
th a t is the fi rst s te p to wa r ds inc u rring c o n te mp t
s
,
s
,
,
,
,
,
.
Dre ss e r
Th e Kit c h e n
C a b i net
(
se e
p
.
I I
)
.
It s p r im ary o bj ec t is th at of sav i ng spac e and
i t d oe s th i s by ut ili sing n ot o nly every i nc h o f
po ssibl e c u p bo ard spac e b ut by h aving rac ks o n
the door s for holdi ng jar s fo r r ic e and other d ry
goods S mall d rawer s p rovid e for spice s c utters
c ork s etc and larger o n e s hold k i tche n
s tr i ng
nap ery towel s and d u ster s A slidi ng to p give s
ex tr a tabl e roo m whe n requ i re d
Th i s c ab in et was I b eli eve the idea of a
cl ever y ou n g hou sew i fe b rought t o the not ic e o f
the fi r m of M cD o u gall in the S tate s who call e d
in the help Of an arti st a cabin et ma ker and a
man Of scie nc e and the re s ul t of the i r c o mbin e d
“
sk ill is k n o w n as
The M cD o u gal l I d ea
But
i t is the t idy wo m an s inve n t i o n all the sam e
,
,
,
.
,
.
,
,
.
,
,
,
-
.
,
,
,
,
-
,
,
,
”
.
’
.
II
MODEL EQ UIPMEN T FO R THE
KITCHEN O F A P LAT
A
With Ap p roxim ate Prices for Middl e Sims
”
L A SKA
re
fr i g r t r i
e a o
,
p i y
i
k
b
r
Q
N i k l h afi g di h
bl r k
V g
h pp r fi
Sp g
c
e
et a
’
on
s c
o
rk
l
,
us
r p
,
at t .
1
02
9
o
N
3
e
3
C
oo
s
O m e l e t -p an
3
na
es, o val an
d
r
o un
d
i
i
e
d
sh
ed
p
i r
fli é di h
T wo
l
5
an
o ea e
So u
n
e c ean e
o
O
o
e
Mil k
k if
”
s
e nc
r
i
d sc s
r
n
a ou -
o
ve
f i gp
A p r g
b il r
R g t di h
Fr
h fi r pr f h i
Tw
r d di h
Sel -bast
C o ve
o
o
Rec o n st r uc t ed
-c ean e
s a a
i r
ead-m xe
s
e
.
6
e - ac
“
Fo
-
n
c
e
d
n t e n de d s e c al l
fo r fi at s
u c
6
,
t.
.
bo l e
-
-
3
s
c oc o t t e s, si x r am a
l
Fre n c h fi re p ro o f
y
c a
.
pi
r i
pi
p i m rm i t
m p i di h
C assero l e, 4
M a m t e, 6
Si x
e t t es
Ga
e-
e
q
u in c ase s
nts
nt s
a
s
es, at
eac
h
D
O
C
N
O
W
\
I
\
O
\
C
14
The Model Kit ch en
.
z
m
m
o
h
x
m
5
.
.
5
m
m
z
m
o
u
Eq uip m ent fo r th e Kit chen o f
G r y gr i
m l w r
an t e e n a
e
e
a
Fl at
a e
p
Two l ip sau c e an s
Two bo l n , w t h l ds
ii g i i
Th r j g
D i bl r
t
F y i g—
i
h
h
i
w
l
d
t
p
m i ll
C ff
C f t i er wi t h l m p f
bl
Mi k d
i f r
t
P
ir f p é
C bb g t r i r
p
i
g
m
l
d
d
d
Q
G rm t b i l r
r pi d t m r
p
h
r
gg
l
t
Mi
Fr i t
d g
bl
li r
P t ry
t r
l
d
f
g
r
r
t
3
D r gg b r
ee
a
e
r
n
o
e
e
u
s
o usse
an
S
e,
a e
a
”
a o
asso
e
or
u ee n s
n
u
e - o
”
s ea
- o ac
e
e
v e et a
an
e s
ce
cut e s
as
o
a e
-
e
ove
e at e
Pie-c up
G l ass l em o n-sq u eeze
r y ri r
Fr
h
k k i
G
e
oo s
u
-
ou
e
a
no r
r
-St a n e s
av
en c
’
coo
n ves
s
br ead
C l au ss
k if
V g t bl k i f
p r
C
A pp l
rr
Wi r f r k
E t i g Sp
Oy t r k i f
W d p
Sk w r
Pal e t t e
e e a
n
o
a
n
e
e
n
k if
n
e
e
e ne
e co e
as
n -
oo
oo n s
n
s e
e
s
o
e
e u se, I n n i c
k
el
u r es
a ne
’
ou
or ta
,
ea- n use
”
e
a
s
a
e
e
ri
en s o o n s, va
e s
Meat -saw
o us
I
I
15
I
Th e
6
M i no r
—
To o l s
Two w
“
Model Ki t chen
.
ir
Iso bel
1:
continued
i
e t am s
o
r l l i g pi
i r f h ld r
”
D
Si k t i dy
r
Fr i t t
L ip b i
o m est c
n an d
-
n
o
e u se- o
r
boa d
0
3
e
n
u
-s o n e
r
as n s, se t o f
t h ee
3
h s, p er set
of
u sh mat s fo r t abl e
cl o t
Sel vy t t
Ho u sem ai d s gl o ves p er
pr
p ir
C h am o
fo r
Se t
r
’
i
s
l eat h e
Di h m p
Dr d d
i g l
S
s
-
an
o
c o ut n
r
r
d j u g-m o p ,
r
-c o t h s
,
To t al
a
s, t h ee
ust e s,
es e n
,
p
p
er
er
o t ec t i o n
etc
.
do z
u
.
do z
C
.
co st o f abo ve e q u
ip m
6
e n t, ,
I
6
I
"
0
O
0
W
0
0
N
@
d
.
The ab ove lis t is mad e o u t wi thout refere nc e
t o a r t icl e s wh ic h wou ld b e class e d am o n g s t hou s e
hold fur ni ture n or d oe s i t ta ke acc ou n t of kettl e s
ba k ing pans etc provid e d w i th the fi tt i ngs of a
gas s tove bu t is in te nd ed to s erve as a gu id e to
the p urc h as e of m od er n k i tc he n u te n sils and tools
,
-
,
.
,
,
,
.
A
V EG ETA B L E-R C K
.
C
A AG T A N
BB
E-S R
I
ER .
III
T HE COMPACT ST O RE C LO SET
H E fo ll ow ing lis t is in te nd e d to
b e s ugge s ti ve
of articles wh ic h i t is re as o nabl e to h ave
in store for help in case s of e m erge ncy
as addi ti o n s to the table and for the right equ ip
m e n t of a ki tc he n W e h ave to b ear in mi nd
th a t in a fl at i t is n ot s o p o ssi bl e to b e ru nni ng
out for every th i ng th at is wan ted j u st whe n i t
is wan ted ; and eve n in a hou se th at is a w aste
O ur O bj ec t in the m o d el
fu l w ay of p ro c ee ding
k i tc he n is t o s how h o w b y thoug ht and fore
sight we may save t im e and u n n ec e ssary s tep s
The s tore cl o s et p ro perly fi lle d can d o m u c h
in th is w ay ; and al thoug h our store spac e
may b e limi te d i t may b e su ffi ci e n t for all our
n eeds i f the sel ec ti o n is ca refully mad e O nc e
a store h as bee n set u p it s keepin g u p is a simpl e
and in exp e n si ve matter F ro m th is li st a smal ler
s el ec t i o n can easily b e made
—
fi
r
Ta k ing foo d materials st s om e of wh ic h i t
w ill b e see n are the th in gs we ordinarily d e n ominate
,
,
,
.
,
,
,
.
,
.
,
,
,
,
,
.
-
,
.
.
Th e
I8
Model Ki tchen
groc eri e s —
wh il e others are s el ec te d w i th a
vi ew to the qu ic k p re parat i o n of extra dishe s for
the tab le
9
Fa r inaceous
G
:
ri
’
rou l t s
pioca
n u t -fl ou r, t a
G rou l t
.
po t
c e-fl ou r,
’
s
fé l
c u e, c h est
at o
C r em e d O rge
B
’
.
rw
t rd
rr wr t Bi rd
p wd r Ch l t p w d r D C L y t B
i g p wd r
P r l b rl y
Egg p w d r
g V rm i lli M r i (C
Sp i
Po lso n
o
e
n
’
e
sa o .
L az en by
’
C
o
e
o
ce
e
oo
.
.
s cus a
eas
.
.
a
ea
.
.
e
ak
an d
,
’
acc a o n
.
.
ec al
o sen za s
)
.
Past in es
.
.
s cu
go
o
.
e
Spag h et t i
A
.
oc o a e
.
o
m an
C o rn fl ou r
s
’
n
o
rry
I n d i an
sau c e .
h u t n ey
rry p
cu
I nd i an
ast e .
.
D riessen s Fo u n d at i o n
A ll ema nde)
’
I
a l ia n,
t
(
sau c es
Espagnol e,
.
Maggi s Co nsom m é ( set
’
C ross St ar
p ld
ee e
ill
p
so u
p
Marasc h i n o
Essences
I
.
.
box,
r d
p ré
asso t e
T o mat o
,
e,
u
.
,
St i c k
Van ill a in p o d
a.
b )
t u es
G rav y
s.
t o m at oes in t in
Fl a v our ing
v an
so u
of
fi a,
rat a
i
gi n g ( gr
.
l mo
gr nd
n,
e
c n nam o n ,
ou
d i t t ; nu t m g ; c l e s ;
o n d ; m ac
;
)
l m n peel x t rac t o f c o c h in al V getabl c l r
i ngs sap g r n and red ; g r nd al m onds ;
pistac h i o kern l s ; c l ery sal t ; ss nc e o f r nn t ;
m i x d h e r bs d r i d p rsl ey m i n t t h y m e bay l a s
C nd nsed m il k G ol d en sy r u p H il e de Pro enc e
s l ad o il
)
(
Ch i ll i r T arrago n v i negar ; pu r e mal t d i t t
Cape rs in bo t t l
it in Sy r up fi D
D i d F it
nd F
Rai i n s
t
plum s for st ew i ng Frenc h
c u rran t s ;
su l t an as
pru nes ; figs d ried ap r i co ts N o rmand y pippi ns
e
o
e
o
-
er
ov
s
e
e
e
.
ee
,
e
e
u
o ou
e
ou
.
e
e
e
e
e
'
e
,
e
o
e
a
,
,
.
a
-
,
u
.
e ve
.
v
.
o
o
.
e.
r e
ru
ru
s, a
r
esser
s
,
,
,
,
,
.
Th e
Model Kitchen
ligh t r
20
Pi t c h -pi n e fi reFish
gl
-
e s.
u e o r c em en t .
W i re-wov e
woo d m at , for
kneeli ng
r
o
,
for stan
d i ng
i k
A s t f d i sh n d d esser t p p rs
l l c e so fil é
ll rs c t l et fr ills h am frills
s s fr ill s ; p i
ke d oy li es
K i t c h n and c ook i ng p p r in sh eet s ; t o il et p pe r
in ro ll s
o n at s n
e
.
o
a e
a
ca e ,
e
ca
co
a
,
u
o
v
a
,
,
a
,
u
,
,
.
e
a
a e
.
A SP
A AG
R
L
US-BO I ER
.
SE L F-B
,
A ST ING RO A STE R
B A K I N G-P A N
.
AND
IV
GAS COO KIN GS TOVE
THE
Th e Am eric an Kitc hener
and
Range
ITH IN
the las t few ye ars the gas c ook ing
—
s tove to say n oth ing of gas hea ting
and lig hting apparatu s fo r p r i vate and
—
pu blic u s e h as d evel ope d e n or m o u sly W e
b egan w i th the portabl e ring t h a t was affi x ed b y
tu
b
e
piping
and
w
as
p
ort
abl
e
w
i
th
in
c
ert
ain
a
limi ts o nly it s capabili ti e s were als o s tric tly
c o n fi n ed w i th i n limi t s ; we h ave n ow the co m
tte
d
gas
r
ang
e
the
hot
pla
te
fi
an d g r ill
l
et el
p
y
the latter whe n o n a large scal e as fo r hotel s
is li ttl e s hort o f a marvel in its s el f ac ting
m ec h ani sm : and in betwee n these ex tre m e s a
n u m b er o f min or b ut n ot l ess imp ortan t improve
m e n t s wh ic h make gas an alm o s t p erfec t m e di u m
for the small hou s ehold s requ i re m e n t s by nig ht
and day Gas h as bec o m e a fri e nd n ot m erely a
s ervan t W here form erly i t was u s ed in o n e or
two w ays o nly to b o il or ro as t we no w fi nd th a t
.
,
-
,
-
,
,
,
,
,
-
,
,
’
,
.
,
.
,
,
,
Th e
22
Model Kit chen
acc ording to t h e way in wh ic h i t is fixe d or arranged
we may s urrou nd as well as s u b d ue wi th heat th at
we m ay c ook a th ing o n all side s a t o nc e and in
h al f the tim e th at i t ta ke s t o d o o ne sid e and the n
an other I n the old grill fo r ins tance there was
a h ard e ning and carb o nizing of the out sid e o f
m e at in ord er to c ook y et retain the j u ic es w i th in
by a m ore
a s ort of frying pan ac t i o n : n ow
p erfec t sys te m of c o m b u s ti o n of ai r and gas by
wh ic h the art icl e to b e c ooke d is n ot m erely trea te d
w i th h ea t from gas b ut by s u p erhea te d ai r and
there is an in
al l over ali ke a t t h e sam e t im e
st an tan eo u s ac t i o n wh ic h c o ag u la te s the al b u m e n
n ear the s urfac e preve n ting the e scap e of j u ic es
fro m the in te ri or wh il e the s e b ec o ming he ate d
expand the fi b re s and in a m u c h s horter t im e
a ttain th a t s tate of c hemical ac t i o n wh ic h we
u nd ers tand by any th ing b e ing c ooked nam ely
p repare d fo r dige s ti o n Th is improve d sys te m of
c o m b u s ti o n abolis he s als o tho s e inj uri ou s su lp hur
c ompou nds wh ic h mad e the u s e of a gas c ooker a
dread in s o m e hou s eholds in earli er d ay
Wh at h as gi ve n su c h a spurt to in ve n ti o n and
improve m e n t is o f c ourse the growth in po pu lari ty
of elec trici ty As a light ing m edi u m we p refer i t
fo r our fl a t ; b ut fo r s o m e y ea rs to c o m e gas is
s ure to re main the main stay o n wh ic h we d e p e nd
N everthe l e ss gas o nly
fo r c ook ing pur po s e s
,
’
.
,
,
,
,
-
-
,
,
,
,
,
,
,
,
,
,
”
,
,
.
s.
,
,
.
,
,
,
.
,
Th e Gas Coo king Stov e
23
e
retains i t s p o p ular i ty by kee ping pac e w i th m o d er n
—
ideas ide as of a c o mpl ex na ture s o m et im e s
The b ugb e ar of a quarterly acc ou n t of elas t ic and
u n k n owa bl e dim e n si o n for ins tanc e h as ke p t
man y a hou seholder fro m u sing gas who would
h ave b ee n glad of i t s easy c o n ve ni e nc e Th i s
O bj e c t i o n
h as bee n m et by the paym e n t of a
pe nny Sixpe nc e or a sh illing in the sl ot and n o
slight b ut ann o ying misc h anc e o f
The
as bill
g
h app e ning to want the r ight c o in at the m om e n t
gave ri se to the further in ve n t i o n of a sys te m
where by any c oin wh ic h cam e h andi e s t might b e
u se d and c h ang e retur n e d i f i t was requ i re d A t
p re s e n t we are l eft wo nder ing i f the w illingn e s s
to o blige wh ic h gas ex h ibi t s in s uc h p erfec t i on
can b e made to go any further
The fi rs t c ook ing s tove s were o bj ec t i o nabl e
be cau s e they gave o f fum e s and sm oke wh ic h
disc ol oured the w alls and po is o n e d the ai r ; and
the foo d c ooke d in the m i f n ot exac tly c o n
t am inated by the sam e ac qu i re d a fl a vour th at to
say the l eas t was u nde si rabl e M oreover the
roug h i ro n of wh ic h the fram e w as mad e was
S o b egan
fou nd imp o ssi b l e to kee p really cl e an
the p ro per fixing of fi ne s the n of t il ed or pla te d
s h i e lds o n the walls ; the n i t w as fou nd p o ssi bl e
to e nam el the in teri or of ove n s ; fi nally the
p ro c e ss proc eeding from w i th in out i t was fou nd
.
,
,
.
,
,
,
.
,
.
-
,
,
,
,
.
,
.
,
,
,
Th e
24
Model Kit chen
u nn ecessary to bu ild the c ook ing s tove of i ro n a t
all
and p olis he d s teel b rass fi t tings t il e s and
e nam el transform e d the ugly Cinderella of the
k i tc he n to a th i ng of or nam e n t as we ll as of u se
N o w the gas s tove in the fl a t may b e w as he d
daily polis hed and ke p t as sweet and dain ty as
the fi n e s t b i t of fi re p roof ware th at ad or ns the fl at
d re sser
S ide by sid e w i th the gas cook ing s tove We
can h ave fi x e d the gas b o il er fo r the he a t ing o i
water thu s d o in g away wi th the n ee d fo r the
range fi re sinc e the b o iler w ill s u pply the b ath as
well as the k i tc he n s requ i re m e n ts or an other
bo il er can be fixed in the bathroo m i ts el f and li t
whe n requ i red The c o n ve ni e nc e of the se b o iler s
is far too li ttl e k now n and as they can b e
h i re d wi th the sam e facili ty as any other ma ke
of s tove and paid for in the sam e mann er i t
s ee ms a great pi t y th at any m o dern fl a t shou ld b e
c o nsid ered fur nis he d w i thout o n e P ers o nally
I look u p o n the gas b o il er whe n fix ed in the
bathroo m as a m ore re liabl e fr i e nd th an the
Geys er and as far m ore s at is fac tory th an the tan k
sys tem I am n ot u nmind ful of th e fac t th at
m uc h u sing of gas may p rove far fro m e c o n omical
eve n whe n paid for by ins talm e nt s b ut the fac t
is th at ec o n o my is gain ed by the very sam e facili ty
wh ic h l eads to w as te nam ely the eas e w i th wh ic h
-
,
,
,
,
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Th e Gas Coo king s
e
t
25
ov e
i t can be tur n ed o n and o ff If u s ed o nly whe n
really wan ted and p ro mp tly ex t ingu i she d if n ot
all owed to sm oke or the fl am e to ru s h out wi th
forc e gas is no t c o s tly It s hould b e b or n e
in mind however th a t a small j et l eft b ur ning
may c o ns u m e as m uc h as a ful l light and there
fore the rul e should b e to u s e gas j u st whe n and
as i t is wan ted and n o m ore
The cl eanlin e s s of c ooking by gas is u n
d ou b tedly a s tro ng rec omm e nda ti o n in i t s favour
fro m the p o in t of vi ew of the fl at d well er As he s
and Cind ers and i nev i tabl e sm oke fro m a fi e are
a gre at draw bac k
We s ee m to reac h a c o mp ro mis e betwee n the
two whe n we tur n to l ook a t the m eri t s of the
Am erican ki tc he ner Und ou b tedly th is la t h as
claims p ec uliar ly it s ow n and they are worth an
e xaminat i o n As he s and Cind er s and sm oke are
re d uc e d t o the minim u m quan t i ty ; c om fort and
warm th in the ki tc he n are incre as e d ; p o ssi bl e
fu m e s of e scapi ng and u nc o nsum ed gas there are
n o n e ; cleanlin e ss and app e aranc e are alm o st a
matc h And ec o n o my ? W ell here again I am
inclin ed to th in k i t i a t ie ; there is no t m u c h
to b e said e i ther w ay
The Am erican ki tc he n er is fi rs t c ou sin to and
imi tator of the F re nc h cuisiuiér and you d o no t
fi nd t h e bourge ise at all kee n to for sa ke her fai thfu l
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-
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s
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e,
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o
Th e
26
Model Kit c hen
lly in favour of m o der n gas i nve n t i o n s of any
k ind Y ou m ay fi nd her acce p ti ng the erv ic e s o f
a gas ri ng fo b o ili ng purpose s b ut fo her ro a t
—
no "
S he d oe no t tru s t her
o
stew o r b rais e
t erriue t o a n y th ing so fi erc e
a gas fl am e ; h
marmite h e w ou ld fa rather s e et u p o n the
c h a rcoal b ai ie th n u po n a gas r i ng and sh e i
right There is so m e su b tl e symp ath y sprin ging
fro m a se n e of fi t n e s s wh ich s u i t the m e di u m
and the p u rpo s e so exac tly to o ne an other And
my ow n sympath i e go out towards the cuisiuiére
I m u s t c o n fess Its simpl e b ut h and so m e b u ild
and i ts brillia nt exter i or i t s c o n ve ni e nce it
eco n omy and cleanlin e ss are s tro ngly a ttrac t i ve
But as I said the A m erican k i tc he ner is o nly
fi rs t c ou sin and i m i t ator an d we in th is c ou n try
k n ow the k i tc he n er fa b etter th an we k now the
s tove i t imi ta te s therefore i t is the m eri ts of the
latter th a t we m u s t set in a c ri tic al and carefu l
spi r i t agai n s t tho s e o f the gas stove whe n co n
s of o
m
the
requ
i
re
e
n
t
fl
at
side in
g
As a ba k ing s tove for pa try and cake s and
as a stove c alc u la te d t o s u i t p rt ic u l arl y well the
fi re p roof cl ay and c h ina we h ave c ho e n fo r our
ute nsils the ki tc he n er c ertainly h as an advan tag e
over gas It is equ ally ec o n o mical fo the
a m ou n t o f co al i t c o n su m e s is m all there fore
the am ou nt o f waste re fu e i t m ake s is small al so
a
s
.
r
r
r
s
s
as
r
s
s
r
r
er
e
s
a
s
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,
s
s
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s
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s
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r
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ur
r
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s
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a
s
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s
s
r
,
.
Th e
28
Model Kitchen
a fford ed of the i r k ind wh ere the fl at h as b ee n
t a ke n o n a l eas e and where m u c h of it s work w ill
d evol ve u po n the mis tre ss her s el f The be s t
tool s are the c he ap e s t in the e nd and in s k ill e d
h ands the b e s t are the o nly rig ht tools to u s e ;
but o n e d oe s n ot li ke to s ee fi ne tool s bl u n te d
and carel e ssly u s ed by the u n th in k ing S the
d ecisi o n as to wh ic h make of c ook ing s tove y ou
will ad op t re solve s i ts el f in to the questi o n of
whet h er y ou or your maids are to b e i t s u s ers
And here h aving show n yo u the p o ssi b ili ti e s of
m ore exc ell e n t way I m us t l eave you e i ther
the
to ta ke i t or to fall bac k u p o n the old co n ve n t i o ns
and su fl er thei r d rawbac k s i f s u c h is your el ec t i o n
,
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,
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O
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”
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'
,
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V
OIL STO VE S AN D BA CHE LO R
EQ UIPMEN TS
co n id er ing the m o der n twe n ti eth c e n tury
fl at o n the larger sc al e b el o nging to the
family we m u s t no t l eave out of sight the
fac t th at i t ex is t s als o in a miniature or b ij ou form
as the méuage of the bac hel or—man or m aid To
s u c h the fi tt ings and c o n ve ni e nc e s o f the i r small
d welling are o f qu i te as m uc h imp ortanc e as t o the
hou s ehold er o n the larg er scal e p erh aps they are
of eve n m ore imp ortanc e for in th i cas e there is
n o t any que s t i o n as to wh ic h pai r of h ands the
—
work sh all b e e n tru s te d therefore the b e st and
m o s t s u i tabl e tool s m us t b e fou nd and u se d
The bachel or fl at is however so well e s tabli she d
an in st i tut i o n in m o der n li fe th at i ts n ee ds and
requ i re m e n t s are every wh i t as well catere d for
as any other t yp e and i t h as i t s e sp ecial c o n
To the s e we
t iv anc es i t s e sp e cial p rov isi o ns
may well d evote s o m e of o u r space
N
-
s
,
,
,
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s
,
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-
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r
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.
Th e
0
3
Keeping
Model Kitchen
till to the su bj e c t of s tove s for
c ook ing p urp o s e s there is a n ew make of porta bl e
as c ook ing s tove wh ic h is al tog ether admi rabl e
g
in i ts way in th e c o n ve ni e nc e s i t o fl er s i t s light
we ight i ts m o b ili ty and small c o s t It h as b ee n
s
,
-
,
'
,
,
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,
O TA L
P
R
B
E
TOV
GA S S
E.
b roug ht out by M e ssrs George Sc ott 8: Co who
s upply the s tove s to all the la rger gas c o mpani e s
fro m who m they can b e h i re d or p urc h as e d li ke
any other ma ke The s tove s are a c o mpac t
s quare or rather obl o ng b ox of p olis he d s heet
i ro n lin ed wi th as b e s to s They are h eate d by
.
.
,
,
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,
,
,
.
Oil
Stov es
and
Bachelor
Eq uip m ent s
I
3
b u r n er s in a sid e c h am b er therefore there are
n o j et s i n th e ove n The hot pla te is the
whole top of the s tove i t sel f and the o nly fi x ing
requ i re d is a l e ngth of flexibl e tubing wh ic h can
be a ttac he d to the ordin ary b ur n er or brac ket
P o ss e ssing all the app e aranc e an d ad v an t age s of
the Rip p ingil l oil s tove th i s is both c l ean er and
c heaper th an the latter sinc e it s c erti fi e d c o s t in
gas a t 35 p er 1 000 feet is o nly
p er hour
S ee i n g how m uc h can b e acc o mm o da ted in it s
ove n w i th the m ovabl e s hel f o n i ts fl at s urfac e
top and Wi th s o li ttl e e xp e ndi ture of heat I am
c h arm e d w i th th is in ve n t i o n
O ther ma ke s of gas c ooki ng stove s there are
in pl e n ty t o b e h i re d o r p urc h ased mad e in
dimin ut i ve siz es but qu i te e ff ec ti ve in the work
ing and where gas is laid o n the bac helor te nan t
is w ise who insis t s o n h avi ng s o m e s uc h s tove
fi x e d in plac e
But small fl at s are s o m eti m e s
fou nd min u s all p rov isi o n of gas al thoug h w i re d
for ele c tr ic lighting S o m et i m e s in the l ower
re n te d o ne s and e sp e cially in sel f c o n tain e d roo ms
there is n e i ther el ec tr ici ty or gas therefore the
d ep e nd e nc e is o n o il for light ing and a fi re or
po ssi bly an o il s tove for c ook ing But h appi l y
th is d oe s n ot l e ave the singl e h and e d hou s ehold er
o il stoves h ave advanc e d and
Wi thout res ourc e s
—
b ec o m e u p to date in a lin e wi th the gas stove
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Th e
2
3
Model Kitc hen
and the k i tc he n er R ipp ingil l s c ompl ete d oubl e
tan k s tove is a p erfec t rang e in i t sel f ; i ts capaci
t i e s are vari e d e n ough to s u i t the m o s t exact ing
It w ill bake and s tew and roas t and b o il al l a t
the sam e tim e b ut s o far as I am abl e to le ar n i t
d oe s n t l et i t s el f out o n h i re It m u s t therefore
’
.
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,
,
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,
,
o
.
T HE B
A C H LO
E
'
R S
T
S
,
,
E W-P A N
.
be b ought outri ght and l ooke d u p o n as an inve s t
m e n t by i ts o wn er But i f o il is y our m edi u m
by n ec essi ty or by c ho ic e a b etter in ve s tm e n t
th an a R ip pingill yo u c ould n ot ma ke O f other
b o iling and hea ting stove s there are vari et i e s
n u m erou s e n o u gh to s u i t all pu rs e s and there is
the further d evelo pm e n t of the p ortabl e ove n to
be n oted wh ic h can b e affi xe d to any b o iling
s tove to e nlarge its c apaci ty and vary the m eans
of c ook ing
But there is an other in ve n ti o n ofwh ic h I wan t
and th a t is the H utc h ings
t o ma ke m e n ti o n
steam er a perfec t c o njuror s c ab in et in i t s el f It
,
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,
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,
’
,
.
Stov es
O il
an d
Bachelor
Eq uip ment s
33
a ti er of co mpartm e n t s o n e fi tting o n above
an other the b otto m o n e b e ing the s te a m er and i t
is g u aran tee d to c ook as p erfec tly o n the t o p
floor as in it s bas em e n t M oreover o n e o r t wo
or all the c ompartm e n ts can b e u se d w i thout
in terfer ing w i th the re s t acc ordi ng to the n ee ds
of tim e and plac e Eac h c o mpartm e nt is s o fa
ind epe nd e n t of the other that a whol e dinn er m y
b e c ooked at o nc e w i th out any m ingling of fl avo u r s
E ac h de part m e n t t o o h as it s c he c k valve by
c an b e
p
ort
i
o
n
of
the
dinn
er
Cl o sin g wh ic h an
y
p reve n ted from being overcooke d y et s t ill b e kep t
hot
And fi nally i t i claim ed fo th i s capi tal
i nve n t i o n th at whe n the dinn er is c ooke d and
e ate n there is w ater l eft ready in the b o il er for i ts
w as h i ng u p A sovereign c overs the c o s t of the
fully c o mpl ete d team er and extra c ookers or
s train er s can b e h ad i f requ i re d Thes e steam ers
are s to c ke d by all large fur nis h ing i ro nm o ngers
The Gourm et or d ou bl e b o il er sp oke n o f in
an other plac e i a capi tal in ves t m e n t fo r the
bac hel or ; and so to o is the s el f bas t ing roas ter
m
an d b a k ing
wh
ic
h
u
s
e
d
for
a
t
c an b e
an
p
bread o r ca ke s a t w ill Th i s is an inexpe nsi ve
th ing b ut m o st u sefu l e sp e cially where any th ing
p ut i n to i t might h ave to be l eft u n te nde d fo r a
c o nsiderabl e tim e
The Ch afi ng dis h is a tru e bac h lor s inve n t i o n
is
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-
’
‘
e
,
D
Th e
34
Model Kitchen
b ut of th at n o m ore n ee d be said here ; a le ss
c o s tly and equ ally capabl e c o n tr i vanc e is The
E c o n o mic a p ortabl e c ook ing dis h wh ic h clo se s
d own to a c ompac t sort o f valis e but wh ic h
whe n o p e n e d o u t and suppli ed w i th m eth ylate d
spi r i t fo r i t s fuel w ill c ook c ho ps s te a k fi sh an d
eggs and in te n min ute s tim e b o il the kettl e fo
”
-
,
,
,
,
,
,
,
’
r
,
t ea
.
u
s
t
here
I
"
ma ke sp ecial m e nt i o n of the
di bl e r ousset wh ic h i f n ot e x ac tly a bac hel or s
sp e ciali t y is y et pa rt ic u l ar ly well s u i te d to h is and
her requ i re m e n ts It is a qu ain t uten sil b ut a
m ay
’
a
,
,
,
,
.
THE D I
AL
B
R
E
OU T
SSE
.
revi val of a very hom ely old c ou n try impl em e n t
N o d ou b t i t was fi r s t d ev is e d for u s e am o ng s t
the ashe s o f an op e n hea rth fo r ro ast i ng and
ba k i ng p otatoe s c hes t n uts and th ing s of li ke ch a
r ac t er fo r the s u pp er whe n m e n and maid s sat
rou nd the op e n fi r e in the l o ng w in ter eve ni ngs
The diabl e rou ss et
n o bo dy h as gi ve n i t an
—
E nglis h nam e so far as I can l ear n is mad e of
.
,
,
,
,
.
,
Th e
6
3
Model Kitchen
th is n ew pa te n t is a great rec o mm e ndati o n b ut
the fac t th at o n e may ma ke s o li ttl e as four pou nds
of flour at a t im e o r eve n l e ss g et a n ouris h ing
l oa f and save ab out 60 p er c e n t of the pr ic e of
ordina ry b read is s t ill m ore in i ts favour A s I
h ave said i t is m ere play the ma k i ng of b read in
th i s way ; m oreover you may make d oug h or
p owd er ca kes in the sam e mixer or p u ddings
minc em eat and b e every wh i t as sati sfi ed
or
w i th i t
An other adva n tage w h ic h bread m ak ing at
ho m e g i ve s is the abili ty to c h ang e and vary the
flour s a t w i l l P ure ho m e mill e d c ou n try flour
of a Sli ghtl y y ellow is h ti ng e sweet and fi ne gi ve s
u s the l o af of a c re a m y c ol our insid e c ri sp and
b row n outsid e n utty in fl avour W hol e m eal
I ndian m eal Gra h am flour and ry e m eal all help
t o m ake c h ang es and so too we may add r ic e
or fl a ke d o at s t o ordina ry flo u r The n th i n k of
the p o s sibili ty of d o u gh ca ke s for te a or rolls for
b reakfa st and the li ke I tell y ou i t is a d elig ht
s o m e play th i ng th i s mag ic breadmaker
Y o u may u se y our o wn recip e or fo ll ow the
di rec ti o n s g i ve n w i th the mac h i ne b ut the sec ret
o f su cc e ss li e s i n p utt in g in all the li qu ids fi r st
the n the flour Tur n the c ran k for three min ute s
the n l eave the pan in a w arm plac e for the d ough
to r is e —ab out an hour
an d whe n r i se n l oo se n
of
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Stov es
O il
an
d Bach el or
Eq uip m ent s
37
i t w i th a k ni fe fro m the edg e s of the pail ; turn
the c ran k agai n to for m the dou g h in to a ball ;
l oo s e n the bi n ding l ever o f the c ro ss pi ec e take
th i s O H; and li ft the d ough out of the pail p u s h i t
ff the k n e adi ng ro d c ut i n to pi e c e and ba ke in
t ins Th is is the o nly p o in t in the whole p ro c e ss
where i t b ec o m e s n ec e ssa ry to touc h the d oug h
w i th the h ands a t all I clas th is capi tal inv en
t i o n as o ne of the true s t lab our and tim e savers
w h ic h the n e w c e n tury h as g i ve n to u s
The fryi ng pan sh i eld i
l b o r saver o f
an other k i nd in th at i t
p re e n t g rea e spot s p re
ve nt s wa ste and al so wi th
c are p reve nt s sm ell Of
fryi ng fro m b ec o ming di
NG
LD
ag ree abl e
The ci rc u la r
c over ( wh ic h is m ore in the n at u re o f a h i eld th an
a c over
h
w
id
e
o
p
e
nin
g
in
the
fro
n
t
wh
ic
h
a
)
ad m i t s of k n i fe
r fork b e in g u e d t o tur n over
the c o nte n t f the pan ; and i t is als o op e n at
the to p as t c over a ny th i ng wh ic h was fryi ng
would of c our se b e to al ter the nature f the
c ook i ng But I h ave b ee n c h ar m e d w i th th i s
n ew protec ti ve sh i eld in the u e thereof fo r i t
save s o n e fro m the da ng er f expl o si ve fat an d
kee ps the stov e s cl ean O n e s thoug ht a fter
s ee i ng and tryi ng all the s e th i ng is i nvariably the
,
-
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o
s,
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s
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s
a
a
u
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s
v
s
,
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s
,
s
FR Y I
-
PA N
S HIE
.
s
s
a
s
o
s
,
,
o
o
o
,
.
s
,
s,
o
’
o
,
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s,
.
Th e
8
3
Model Kit chen
sam e
W h y did n o o n e th in k of th is b efore
y es y ear s b efore and s o save b ur n t h ands and
fac e s gru mblings b eca u s e o f sm el l s th a t s ee m ed
u navo idabl e and a ho s t of other u npl easan t
n e ss e s
Las tl y a word ab out the Gourm et b o il er s :
the pr incipl e is th a t of o n e pan w i th in an other t o
e ns ure regular he at and preve n t ac tu al b o iling or
was te of c o n te n t s ; b ut the tru e Gourm et sau ce
pan h as an i n terlinin g Of glaz ed s to n ew are wi th
feet at the botto m to p reve n t i t s imm e dia te c o n
tac t w i th the o u ter pan o f s tee l or i ro n There
is thu s water u nd er n eath and all rou nd and th is
obvia te s any n eed for c o n s tan t sti rr ing r a tte nt i o n
eve n for the m o s t d elica te c u s tard But the pr im e
u s e of the Gourm et I ta ke to b e the ma k ing of
i nvalid s b eef tea al thoug h you may u s e i t for a
thou sand other p urp o s e s Y o u may safely l eave
a Gourm et bo il er n the s tove al l day w i thout
a tte n t i o n save to s ee th at there is w ater in the
outer pan I t is capi tal too for p orr idg e ma k ing
and is al w ays c ho s e n by d e m o ns tr a tor s Of b re a k
fas t foo ds Q uak er o ats etc as by n o other
m o de of c ook i ng is the fl avour s o w ell p re s erve d
The ute nsils here d e sc r ib e d and many other s
n ot incl u d ed in th is d e sc r ip t i o n b el o ng t o the
d evel opm e n t of c ookery where in li e s
sci e n t i fi c
the i r fascinat i o n
H e a t in s o m e for m is the
,
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O il
and
Stov es
B achel or
Eq uip m ent s
39
age n t e mpl oye d in all c ook in g b ut the ac tual
c hemical ch a nge s b roug ht ab out by the u se of
heat vary acc ording to the d egree attain ed and
the nature of the vess els in wh ic h c ook in g take s
plac e W herever we fi nd laws and p r i nciple s a t
work we re ac h an exac t sci e nc e and i t is a an
exac t sci e nc e rather th an as a n ec e ssary daily tas k
th at we treat f c ookery in eve n the small es t
m odel ki tc he n
,
,
.
,
,
s
,
o
.
VI
THE C HAFIN G DI SH
’
y ou are acqu ain te d wi th a c h afi ng
di h you can h ardly th i n k a fl at well
equ ipp e d or s u i tably furnis he d i f i t d oe s
n e as p art o f i t s fi tt ing s
N o t th a t I
n o t c ou n t
regard the c h afi ng di sh as a k i tc he n ute nsil u nle s s
the k i tc he n is so e n ti rely it s mis tre ss s o wn d omain
th at s he kee p s and u s e s everyth ing in i t hersel f
Eve n the n the ch afi ng dis h is m ore u i tabl y
hou s ed in the dining roo m Wherever l oca te d
however i t d e s erve s the m o s t re p e c tfu l treatm e n t
and atte nti o n b ecau s e i t can ac h i eve so m u c h th a t
w e class as the p erfec ti o n of c ookery
I li ke to s ee i t s ta ndi ng at the c orn er of the
brea kfast tabl e o n a wi n ter s m orn i ng the b eam s
fro m t h e fi re caug ht in i t s bright nickel o c opp er
c over and throw n bac k in play fu l reflec ti o n
Whe n the cover is li fted so m e fragran t savour
tell o f egg s c ook ing in butter of fi ll et s f fi sh
or gr i l li ng sau sag e s ; and wh atever i t b e t hat is
N CE
s
o
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s
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o
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Th e Ch afing Dish
4
a
I
fou nd there i n y ou fancy i t tastes b etter perh ap s
b ecau s e i t l ook s better th an i f the sam e h ad bee n
c ooke d in any th ing els e or in any other m od e
But it s gre at advan tage li es in the tim e and
trou b le and s teps i t save s y ou by h av ing i t cl o s e
to y our h and Tim e and s te p s c ou n t for so m u c h
t h e fi r s t th in g in the m or n i ng " A li tt l e t im e ly
assis tanc e li ke th i s a li ttl e ex tra c o m fort and th at
—
te mp ting tri fle i t h as he lp ed to m ake the s e
p erh aps turn the scal e and d ecid e the hu m our
of the day If i t did n oth i ng m ore for y ou th an
th is you m u s t surely agree th at a c h afi ng dish is
worth h avi ng
At first perc h ance i t p uzzl e s it s h appy
po ss e ssor i t see ms as though it s p roc e sse s m u s t
b e sl ow it s range rather limi ted But wai t and
—
p rove i t It h as two pan s the lower o ne for
holding water and in foll ow in g o u t di rec t i o ns
you are p robably kee ping th i s over the fl am e u n
n ec e ssarily Th is l ower pan is o nly in te nded to
—
b e u s e d in it s p rop er capaci ty th at is fo r retardin g
the cook i ng of anyth ing th at m u s t b e d o n e ge n tly
an d for kee pi ng h o t s o m eth in g al re ad y c ooke d
I n ma k in g c u s ta rds and other sa u c e s w e requ i re
slac k heat ; so too for si m m eri ng fi sh o r oys ters
o r m e a t al re ady c ooke d th a t is b e in g rehe ate d
But fi ll et s and c utl et s and sau sag e s wan t b r i sker
heat therefore we di scard the l ower pan an d set
,
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Th e
2
4
Model Kit chen
the o n e wi th the h andl e s traight over the fl am e
i t is easy to diminis h th is fl am e by m eans of i t s
ow n c hec k i f there s ee ms a li keli hoo d of b ur ni ng
or c ook ing too fas t The ch afi ng-dis h s hou ld
s ta nd o n an i ro n tray or s o m eth i ng equ i val e n t
wh ic h n ee d n ot b e m ore th an j u s t large e n oug h
,
.
,
,
,
T HE C
H A N G—
DI H
S
PI
.
th is p recaut i o n is nec e s sary l e s t a li ttl e spi ri t
overflow and catc h alight
You keep the o u tside polis hed to the la st
d eg ree n o d ou b t b ut is the inside p re se rve d
w i th the sam e immac ulate care ? The o n e th i ng
to avo id is sc ratc h i ng and roug he ni ng the li ni ng
w i th a k ni fe s u ppo si ng i t h as b ur n t p orti o ns l e ft
If your dis h is a
st ic k ing to i t a fter w a sh in g
bu t
.
,
,
,
.
Th e
44
Model Kit chen
ever h ave c om e in to s uc h favour as i t h as i f i t
h ad no t b ee n fo r the ch afi ng di sh ; and c ertai n I
am th a t m ore th an h al f the fa m e th at the H e i nz
preparati o ns h ave ac qu i red is d ue t o the o ne
uten sil wh ic h see m s t o h ave b ee n evolve d o n
—
p urp os e fo r them o r they fo r i t Ta ke
Am erican ca nn e d c or n or ba ked b ean s ; serve
the s e w i th the sa u c e that is ad vi se d w i th the m
-
.
,
A D EGG A ND SH DD D WH A T
CRE ME
S
RE
E
E
.
your th i n w ell holl ow ed and c ri sp e n e d
w heat case s w i th the sam e cor n o r b ea ns r
—
—
peas w h ic hever y o u h ave an d y o u h ave a di sh
th at is pretty and te mp t i ng e nough t o set b efore
a k i ng p o sse ssi n g all the e s se n t ial s o f a g oo d an d
The g reat mi st ake th at so m any
sat i sfyi ng m e al
—
m a ke is in no t sh api ng the se w he a t c as e s qu i te
th i n e no ugh there need b e no waste o f s u b sta nc e
by so d oi ng as the s hre d s cas t o fl m a ke exc ell e n t
and
fil l
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Th e Ch afing Dish
45
’
raspin gs fo r other th ings The ca se s w an t n ic el y
to as ti ng in a gas ove n b efore they are fi ll e d
Fo r qu ic k he at i ng of a li ttl e s ou p fo r a
p uré e a gravy and for sauc e s at all t im e s and
s e as o n s there is n oth i ng h al f so h andy to u s e for
the p urp os e as the c h afi ng di sh There m ay b e
H ere
sweet as we ll as sa voury sa u c e s o f c our se
for in stanc e is a d el ici ou s sau Ce for serv i ng wi th
—
t i n ned fru i ts peac he s pe ar s apr ic ots pl u m s etc
.
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S WE E
T SA C
U E FO R
TI
,
,
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,
NN D F IT
RU
E
S
.
.
Let h al f a pi n t mil k he at b o iling po i n t
the n sti r in a te a sp oo n ful o f c or n o r rice fl o u r
p rev i ou s l y wetted w i th c old mil k ; whe n th i s
b o ils take the p an o fl the fi r e and l et i t c ool
Wh i sk separatel y the wh i te s and
fo r a mi n ute
y ol k s of two fre s h eggs keep the wh i te s asid e
and s t i r in to the yol ks three sp oo n fuls o f castor
N ex t st i r th i s
s u g a r an d a few d ro ps o f li queur
i n to the th ic ke ne d m il k c o n t i n u in g the st i rri ng
w h il e y o u pour the c u s tard o ff i nto a basi n the n
o
f
to
-
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-
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"
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Th e
6
4
Model Kitchen
fi n ally,
wi th a light li ft ing mo t i o n add the
wh is ke d wh i te s so as to keep the whol e as m u c h
li ke froth as po s sibl e S et th i s c ream o n ic e i f
y ou can ; i f no t l et i t s tand in cold water for an
hour W he n c old fil l the c e n tre s of the fru i t
serv in g eac h o n a b isc u i t and gar nis h w i th c ho pp e d
c herr i es
The c h afi ng di sh is again p re e min e n tly
s u i ted to the m ak ing o f c urri e s b ecau s e whe n
ng o f th i s
n
o nc e mad e in the o n e
the
placi
a
p
over water in the other e ns ure s j u s t th at sl o w
s i m m er ing wh ic h g i ve s the m e ll ow fl avour ever y
—
curry s hould acqu i re wh ic h yo u can n ever g ive
t o i t by an
other
th
an
sl
ow
c
ook
in
g
Fis
h
y
c urr i e s vegetabl e c urr i e s eggs in c urry sauce
all the se r i ng the c h a ng e s pl e a san tl y w i th t ho se o f
m e a t and p ou l try
Ap rop os of c urr i e s the m ere
addi t i o n of a c urry p ow d er or paste however
c ho ic e to a gravy or sauc e d oe s no t trans form
th at in to the ge n u in e th ing Y o u m u st b u ild u p
fro m the b eginning ; and p erh aps j u s t here and
n o w is as g oo d an o pp ortu n i t y as an y to g i ve
o u a reliabl e re cip e for the ma k ing Of a fo u nda
y
t i o n c urry sauc e i n to wh ic h y o u can p ut m ea t o r
poul try fi sh o r eggs as yo u c hoo s e
Take a larg e c ook ing appl e ; pare c ore and
minc e i t fi n ely ; minc e three small sh all ots and
slic e a tomato the n simm er the s e together in an
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Th e Ch afi ng Dish
47
v
ou nc e of b utter W he n soft c ru s h the m d ow n
ru b in a tea sp oo n fu l of fécul e or p otato fl o u r
and add a large c u pfu l of goo d b o n e s toc k ; sti r
o ver the fl am e u n t il i t b o ils the n ru b the who l e
throug h a fi ne si eve or tami s Add no w a sal t
spoo n fu l of sal t a pi nc h of m ixed pepp ers t wo
te a sp oo n ful s o f fi n e st curry p owd er or p aste o ne
of c hut n ey and t wo o f d ri ed c oc oan ut and a few
d rops o f v in egar or glass o f wh i te w in e M ix
all thoroug hly well and l et the fl am e u nd er the
dis h b e l owered or fi ll the botto m pan w i th wa ter
and s et the c h afer over i t L et the sau c e simm er
for at l e as t h al f an hour by i t s el f the n plac e in i t
wh atever is b e i ng s erve d as a c urry i f m ea t l et
th is b e th inly and n e atly slic e d p o u l try c ut in to
the small e s t j o in ts fi sh in c utl et s roll s or fl a ke s
and eggs h al ved o r slic e d Let the simm eri ng go
o n ge n tly fo r a n other h al f hour a t l east m ore i f y o u
can S erve a c u rry str ai ght fr om the ch afi ng dis h
w i th d ry c ooke d ric e in a s e pa ra te dis h b e sid e you
Very passabl e c u rr i e s are to b e b ou ght re ady
p repare d and the s e can b e he ated in the ch afi ng
di sh w i th a minim u m a m ou n t o f trou bl e serving
wi th ric e as u su al I nd ee d fo r al l k ind s of th i ng s
wh ic h wan t sett ing forth at short n otic e I regard
the c h afer as an in val u abl e assi stan t
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VII
THE CASSE ROLE
AN D
MA RMITE
a word in the b egin ning wh ic h appli e s
to al l ute nsil s mad e of glaz e d clay i t is th at
su c h ma terial whe n n ew m u s t b e
s e as o n d
b efore b eing b rou ght in to regu lar u s e The
re as o n for th i s p ro c s is to re nd er the pan
“
l e s s br i ttl e and to make i t as i t were g rip
the su b s tanc e s p ut in c o n tac t w i th i t Th i
se as o ning
c o n sis ts in s o ak ing the whol e pan
over nig ht in cold water imm ersing i t c ompl etely
i n sid e and out ; the n after d rying to heat i t
g rad ually w i th s o m e fat i n ide m ore th an o nc e i f
po ssibl e M u c h of your future s u cce ss d epe nd s
a
o n h av i ng the w a re p ro p erly s e a so n e d a t fi r st
the difl erence b etwee n u i ng a new pan and o n e
th at h as b ee n in u se fo r som e t i m e p rove ;
m ore however depe nd o n kee ping every art icl e
a bs ol utely cl ean and to e ns ure the i r being s o th y
s hould be was hed out imm edia tely a fter u sing
wi th b o ilin g w a ter and so da
Any s tains or b urn t
UST
,
e
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.
es
”
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s
.
”
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s
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s
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’
s
s
,
s
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e
,
.
Th e C asserole
an
d
Marm ite
49
re m ains l eft insid e or o u t w ill b e liabl e to impart
the i r fl avour to wh a teve r is c ooked in the ve ssel
’
n e x t t im e ; they can all b e ru bb e d O H w i th the
f r i e ndl y he lp of V im
The cass erol e is pre e min e n tly the pan fo r
u s e in a sl ow ove n or for sett ing am o ngs t the
C i n d er s o n the he a rth : th is las t is the p o si t i o n
y ou ge n erally fi nd i t o cc u pying in p oor c ou n try
c ottag es abroad The marmi te is c ho s e n when a
larg er n u mb er of vegetabl e s and m ore li qu id h ave
to b e acc o mm odated the mar mi te is the prod u c er
,
,
”
.
-
,
.
C
AS OL
SER
T
M A R MI
E.
E
.
i nnu m era bl e e peci ally of tho s e c om
p ou nd ed s ol ely of v getabl e It doe s i t s work
qu i etly so thorough ly ask i ng o nly for abu ndanc e
of tim e and to occ u py a c or ner of the s tove where
the he at w ill n ot b e g re a t The res ul ts wh ic h
b oth ve ssel s gi ve are prac tically the sam e c ho ic e
b etwee n the m b e i ng ge ner ally a que s t i o n f
qu a nti ty ; b oth agai n can b e b rought to tabl e
o
f p otages
,
s
e
,
s
so
.
,
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,
o
,
,
E
Th e
0
5
Model Kitchen
j u s t as they are though of the two the cass erol e
l ooks the b e s t and is the m o s t c o nve ni en t to
,
m o st Co n tin e ntal hou s eholds the marmi te
t ake s the plac e a ssi gn e d to the s toc k p ot in
E nglan d S ou ps and s tew s c ooke d in e i ther pan
are m ore m ell ow and s eem to p o sse ss m ore
fl avour th an in an y other ma ke of ve ss el ; and a
In
-
.
THE C UT
L FT
E
To B E
C OM
E
C
OL D
.
pi ec e of a j o in t li ke a h al f l eg or s hou ld er o f
m utto n wh ic h b eing c ut is spoil t for roas tin g
i f c ooke d ge n tly in these pans i ts j u ic e s and the
s team c reate d s u pplying wh a t m o i sture is n eed e d
re s ul ts in a s ucc u le n t savoury di sh w h ic h can b e
ea te n to the very las t m ors el and n ot a part icle
was te d b ut the b o ne The sam e c ut l eft to
b e c om e c o ld b efore re m ov ing fro m the pan will
be fou nd to b e s urrou n d e d wi th j elli e d gravy
-
,
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.
Th e
Model Kitchen
pi ec e s in the cass erole p ut w i th the m s o m
peel e d s h all ot s or a pi ec e of garlic a k n ot of
s weet her b s a c arrot cut in rou nd s and s o m e
s trips of fat bac o n P our in a glass ful of re d
wi n e and a teac up ful of b o n e stoc k Cover the
an cl o s e l y and
e t in the ove n to c ook g e n t l y for
p
—
a t le ast two hour s three i f y ou li ke S t i r in a
teaspoo n fu l of p ota to fl o u r previ ously wette d
j u s t before b ri nging the pan to tabl e in ord er to
th ic ke n the gravy ; and re m ove the b u nc h of
her bs
F or B f 5 l M d a rou nd of b eef n eatly
b o n e d and t i ed s u c h as the Lo nd o n b utc her is
s kil ful in p re par i ng is the be s t pi ec e y ou can
h ave and i t should l eave b ut li ttl e spac e in the
cas serol e to spare P u t w i th i t the b u nc h of
herb s as b efore also the carrot and three or four
small o ni o ns p eel e d ; add a c u p ful of s toc k a
tabl e sp oo nful of aro mat ic vin egar everal p epper
c orns a cl ove or two and spoo nful of sal t C over
t i ghtly s et in a c or n er of the ove n and l eave i t
four or fi v e hour s i f the pi ec e we i g he d as m a ny
p ou nds s o m ewh at l e s s i f i t was of small er siz e
Li ft i t out o n to a dis h and s urrou nd w i th the
vegetable s s k im the fat fro m the gravy and p our
o er
t
A pi e c e of
"
F i nd
a l O il l
veal c ut fro m the fill et or the th ick part of the
2
5
e
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s
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-
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ee
a
o
e,
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s
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v
.
r ca
ea u a u
u s,
’
se
e, e c .
-
Th e C asserole
and
Marmit e
53
s hou ld er is ta ke n for th is and freely lar d ed wi th
sal t p ork the n b ou nd w i th tapes i f n ec e ssary t o
kee p in h ap e It is plac ed in the cass erol e wi th
a free p rin kli ng of sal t and pe pper bu nc h of
her b s o n e or two roo t veg etabl e s l eft in large
pi ec e s an o ni o n and su ffi ci e n t d rippi ng or sal t
b utter to gi ve m o is ture Th i s is all owe d to brais e
for ab out tw o hours i t is the n li fted i n to an other
di sh and p ut cl o se to the fi e to b rown the s urfac e
wh il e the gravy is s k imm ed and strain e d and
th ic ke n ed p rev i ou s to p our ing a rou nd the frican
d e au A p u ee of fre s h s orrel is adde d to the
gravy at th i s s t age or p eel ed toma toe s c h icory
al i fy or m u s hroom s acc ordi ng as they gi ve
a dis ti nc tive nam e to the di sh
The s e gar
n i h and a re ser v e d w i th the m e a t w he n i t is
carve d
,
,
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s
.
s
,
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.
r
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"
,
r
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,
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s
s
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s
.
Po u l et
a l a P a y s a n n e it
,
I Es t r a g o n ,
’
—
Pu t
et c
the casserol e two or three tabl e sp oo n ful s of
salad o il
and a pi ec e of b utter the siz e of an
egg ; w he n very h t to ss the j o in ted pi ec e s of
fo w l in th i s tur ni ng the m ab out to b row n all
over A s s oo n as they h ave ac qu i re d a col our
draw t h e pan asid e and put wi th the fowl s om e
fre sh o ni o n s fi n ely minc e d c ho pped parsl ey an d
other her b s p epp er and a h al f pi n t of stoc k
C over and all ow to simm er fully an hour
O r ins te ad of parsl e y ta ke tarrago n le av e s and
in
,
o
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-
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,
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,
Th e
Model Kitchen
a l e ss qu an t i ty of o ni o n and fl avour the s toc k
w i th wh i te w in e Th i s sau c e is imp roved by
b ei ng very sl ig htly th ic ke n ed
F or P l t in l Di b l the j o in ts and pi ece s
would b e b row ne d and the n lib erally p epp ered
other ingredi e n ts b e ing adde d as be fore and the
sauc e strain ed c ol oure d and mad e stro n gly
54
,
.
.
ou e
a
a
e
,
,
,
,
i
t
u
n
e
a
p q
.
“
A BI R
D
OF
D OUBTP UL A G E
"
.
the rab bi t wou ld b e
di vid e d in to c o nve ni e n t Siz ed pi ec es the n floure d
an d b row n e d i n h o t fa t the sam e w ay and whe n
pac ke d i nto the pan would rec eive s tr ips of sal t
p ork or baco n li b eral se aso ni ng and a b u nc h of
Fo r L a p i n
nu
C as se r o l e ,
-
,
,
,
,
,
Th e C asserole
Marmite
55
herb s o ni o ns and any other vegetabl e s li ked
s u ffi ci en t stoc k to j u s t cover all and would c ook
thu s for a matter of two or three hour s If n ot
s u ffi ci e n tl y b row n the g ra v y can b e c o l oure d w i th
a few d ro ps of brow nin g and i f li ked s o m e re d
w in e c an b e add ed Th is is s erve d fro m the
cass erol e wi thout other al teratio n
P ig eo ns and small gam e b i r ds e sp ecially i f i t
is thoug ht they may b e tough are d elici ou s i f
s tewe d in the cassero l e a li ttl e w in e or s toc k be i ng
p ut wi th the m
“
A poor man s stew of veget abl e s is als o
exc ell e n t It c o nsis t s of slic e d p otatoe s and
o ni o ns pars nip s and tur nips s o m e strips of sal t
pork p e pper and sal t herbs and a c u pful of
water C ook i t fo r ab out two hours and you will
fi n d i t m o st savoury
All the ab ove dis hes mi ght be s erve d o n
the ordi nary m ea t dis h i f preferred b ut wou ld
l ook b etter in suc h a case i f a gar nis h of c ooke d
p otatoe s were gi ve n the m the pot atoe s b e ing
s h ap ed wi th a fancy c utter
The m armi te c ould b e u se d fo r any of the
di shes where a larger qu an t i ty n ee d e d to b e
c ooke d ; b ut the cas serol e is p referabl e where
qu an ti t i e s are small as i t is b e s t to fi ll the pan
as n early as may b e But the marm i te makes an
exc ell e n t hotc h p otc h h aric ot m utto n Iris h s tew
an
d
,
,
,
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,
,
,
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,
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,
.
”
’
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,
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-
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,
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-
,
,
,
Th e
6
5
Model Kitc hen
other th ing s of si m ilar or d er and the foll ow
ing is a capi tal w in ter s u pp er di sh
Two p ou nds f the lean breas t of ve al or
m utto n ; rem ove the fat i f any and c ut in to
eve n pi ec e s plac e them in the m arm i te w i th a
sp r in klin g of sal t an d p e pp er s o m e short l e n g th s
f c el ery and l eek s an o n i o n an d te ac u p ful of
p ea rl barl ey ; add water e n oug h to c over w ell
C ook g e n tly o n the to p of the stove fo r a t l e as t
two hours sk im re m ove fat fro m the surfac e ;
and the b o n e s i f p o s sibl e ; the n s erve fro m the
marmi te a t tabl e a servi ette b e ing fold e d rou nd i t
F or all k inds of vegetabl e sou p s and p urée s I
prefer to u s e the marmi te in p refere nc e to an y
th ing e lse ; it is exc ell e n t to o fo r th i ngs wh ic h
h ave to b e ke p t h o t fo r tardy co m er s
an d
,
o
,
,
,
,
o
,
,
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,
,
.
,
,
,
.
THE C
A S OL
S ER
E R
EA D Y
FOR THE
TA B
L
E
.
VIII
COO KING IN A N D USING FR EN C H
FI R E P ROOF C HINA DI S HE S
,
HE
m etho d s of c ookin g wh ic h exci te our
wo nd er and in tere s t w he n we are trave l
ling ab road an d w h ic h we fi nd i t so
di ffi c ul t to imi tate whe n a t hom e a e the res u l t
in grea t m easure of the di fferen t clas s of c ookin g
,
,
R
AGO T
U
-D I S
H
r
.
ute n sils th at ar e in s ervic e there S inc e fore i g n
re s taura n t s h ave sp ru ng u p in our mids t how
ever we h ave be c o m e n ot o nly m ore familiaris e d
w i th the fl avour and appe aranc e of F re nc h and
.
,
,
Th e
8
5
Model Kitchen
G e r man
pr e para ti o ns b ut we h av e the adv an tag e
o f p r o c u r ing the sam e m e ans fo r the i r r e r o du c
p
t i o n sinc e the s e c ook s h ave c r ea te d the d emand
fo r the i r o wn too ls and the d e mand h as b roug ht
in a s u pply The v er y nam e s o f cass er ol e
mar mi te p ot au feu etc h ave c rep t in to c o mm o n
u s e and b ec o m e anglicis ed in the tran si ti o n
The gr eat cl e anlin e ss ligh t we ight and c heap
n e ss o f clay pottery is a v as t d e al in i ts favou r
bu t i t h as b e sid e s as b e fo r e r e mar ke d i t s o wn
p ec u l iar adv an tag e s in c o n veying o r e d u ci ng
fl av ou r s wh ic h n o othe r k ind o f ve ss el can gi ve
I n fi r e p roo f c h ina we g et the sam e qu ali t i e s in
a m o r e refin ed for m the el ega nci es o f the m e n u
s hould b e l eft fo r th is war e no t m er ely b eca u s e
i t n eeds ra the r m o r e car eful h andling b ut b eca u s e
ev ery dis h is i t s elf o r nam e n tal and in te nde d fo r
tabl e s er v ic e Fi re pr oo f clay wh ic h as marmi te
and cass ero l e we c o nsid er e d in o u r p r ev i ou s
c h ap ter co s t s ab out a th i rd o f the pr ic e o f fire
pr oo f c h ina "u s t he r e ho wever we wan t t o
gi v e o u r atte n t i o n to the sp eciali t i e s b el o nging
t o the la tte r wh ic h in the small hou s eho ld o r
fl at ar e par tic u lar ly we lc o m e and val u abl e
Whe n l ook ing over a n u mb er o f s h ap e s we
s hou ld p ro bably b e a tt rac te d by the s h all o w
ear e d dis he s oval and r ou nd wh ic h are m ad e in
s ev er al siz e s The s e s ugge s t a t o nc e su c h dain ty
,
,
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,
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-
-
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,
Th e
60
Model Kitchen
i t ta k e s the for m o f ram aq u in and so u flié cas e s
W h a t dain t i er finis h to a dinn er can we d e si re
—
th an the savoury b nne bouc/ e wh ic h the rama
qu in p re s e n t s ? and wh at sweet is s o u ni ver sal a
favou r i te as the c r isp so u fli é wi th i t s w in e o r
c hoc ola te sa u c e ? The n finally ther e is the
gam e pi e m ou ld in c r u s t c ol our wh ic h answer s
admi rably fo r all k inds o f s almis and r éclzaufl e:
o f gam e o r p ou l t r y
If the s e th ings ar e a li ttl e e xp e nsi v e a t the
fi r s t outlay we gain eve n tu al l y in the grac e
.
o
z
,
,
,
-
,
,
.
,
CO
COTT E
wh ic h
C A SE
R A M A Q UI N
.
.
they add n ot o nly t o the tabl e i t s el f b ut
to o r m e n u s ; the i r ver y u s e s ee ms to ex er t
a r efining in fl ue nc e A s to the c o s t o ne eac h
w
i
th
the
e
xc
e
p
t
i
o
n
o f all tho s e j u t m e n t i o n e d
(
i
n cas e
ou
ld
su fli ce to s ta r t wi th
o f the
am a
w
q
)
if a m e di u m siz e is s e l e c te d
C o nsid er we no w a few c ho ic e recip e s s u i tabl e
to the s e dis he s
—
Ta ke the s h all ow dis h
P t it Pl t Mi
fi r s t m e n t i o n e d p ut in to it a few small bi ts o f
sal t bu tte Slic e th inly m e tal e G u yere o r
,
,
u
.
,
s
r
s
u
,
.
a
e
,
r
.
so
s
r
61
French Firep roof China Dishes
—
C he ddar c hee s e a rrange th is in a r ing l e av ing
the c e n tr e o f the dis h fi c e in to th a t b r ea k two
o r m o r e eggs ; sp r in kl e w i th p e pp e r a pinc h o f
sal t and s et the dis h in the ove n fo r bar ely
te n min ute s E a t im m edia tel y
—
O uf s a l a C ém
B utte r the dis h p ou r in a
whe n th is is hot b r eak
v e r y small c u p f u l o f mil k
in to i t as many eggs as the dis h take s easily
c over and l et the m p o ac h u n til j u s t s et Seaso n
w i th c el ery sal t and spic e d p epp er the n c over
c o mpl etely wi th th ic k c r eam ; s et bac k in the ov en
to b ec o m e tho r ough ly hot and s erv e A l ittl e
c ho pp e d c el er y (gr ee n ) can b e spr in kl ed o n the
s u rfac e as garnis h
—
Oy st s
Th is sam e s h all ow dis h
G at i n
is admi rabl e fo r s erv ing u p o ys ter s D rain o f?
t h e j u ic e and b ea r d a d oz e n o f the m ; b utte r
t h e dis h sp r in kl e i t th ic kly wi th b r eadc r u mbs ;
d r o p in the oyster s s queez e l e m o n j u ic e over
the m spr in kl e wi th sal t and p e pp er add the i r
o wn j u ic e and m o r e c r u mbs ; las tl y a few bi t s o f
b utte r o n the to p ; the n ba ke qu ic kly fo r six o r
s eve n min ute s in hot ove n
O r y o u can do oys te r s in c r e am as in the
r e cip e j u s t gi ve n f or eggs
—
n G
L b t
t in
M a ke ab out a te acup fu l
o f goo d wh i te sa u c e wi th b utte r and mil k fl av o u r
ing i t w i th l e m o n j u ic e ; add a dr o p o r two o f
,
'
,
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r
e
e.
,
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,
-
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,
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er
au
r
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,
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-
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,
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o
s
er
a
ra
,
-
.
,
Th e
62
Model Kitchen
Tabasc o the n the fl aked m ea t o f a c ooke d l o bs ter
wh ip wi th a fork and pil e i t lightly in to the o al
dis h spr in kl e the s urfac e wi th cr u mbs ; s et i t in to
the ove n t o b eco m e h o t and t o b ro wn ever so
lig htly ; then o n w i th d raw ing sp in kl e the c or al
in a p owd e r over the t p Y o u can u s e the fl e s h
o f a c r ab in the sam e w ay
—
The s e are b etter c ut in to r ather
S ll p
smal l pi ec e s and ge n tly hea ted th roug h w ith a
morsel o f b utte and a c ove r kep t o v er them ;
b efor e s erv ing r e m ove the c over spr in kl e w i th
p epp e a few c r isp bisc u i t raspings and j u s t to as t
the m u nd er the gas gr ill fo r a min ute n ot m or e
C o d r oe s ar e c ut in to slic e s and f i e d o r baked
u sing ve ry li ttle b utter and c ove i ng the m well
wi th b r e adc r u m b s ; a li ttl e l e m o n j u ic e s queez e d
ove r is an impr ovem e n t
—
T m t
If c ut in h al f and ba ke d a gr atin
w i th b utter and b r eadc ru mbs ma ke a nic e dis h
to bring t o tabl e as acc o mpanim e n t to gr ille d o
to as te d bac o n They take b ut a few min ute s t o
c ook in a gas o v e n b ut whe n d o n e add th at
sp ot o f br ight c o l ou r t o the tabl e and th a t
pi qu ancy to the ho m eli e dis h wh ic h ma ke s a
wo rld o f di ff er enc e o n a c heerl e ss m or ning
A ll the fo rego ing a e simpl e l i ttl e dis he s easily
mad e by a dain ty c ook wh o h as o ne o f the s e
s h all ow fi r e p roo f c h ina d is he s at h er s erv ic e They
,
v
,
,
,
o
r
.
.
ca
o
s.
,
r,
,
,
r,
,
.
,
-
r
,
,
r
,
-
.
o
a oe s .
d
,
,
r
.
,
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,
r
.
r
,
.
French Firep roof Chin a Dishes
63
all well wor th a tte mp t ing and other s qu i te as
app etising woul d qu ic kly s ugge s t the ms elve s t o
the mind
Let u s ta ke n ex t the ram aq u in and so u fli é
cas es
C hee s e ram aqu ins are p er h aps nic e s t o f all
are
,
.
,
C I R CU LA R
R A M A Q UI N
,
,
C
So u FFL é
.
A SES
.
and they are n ev e r b ette r th an whe n fill ed wi th
the sam e mix tur e as fo r c hee s e fo n due wh ic h
b e ing ba k ed is e s u p c r isp and b r ow n and mak e s
a li ttl e pic tu r e wo r th y o f admi rati o n Fo r the
mix tu r e y o u n eed t o wh ip s epara tely the wh i te s
and y o l k s o f t wo fre s h eggs ; add to the y o l k s
a la rg e tabl e sp oo n fu l o f fin e ly g ra te d s t al e c hee s e
o r d r i e d P a rm e san
the sam e am ou n t o f br ead
p e pp e r and sal t ; the n
c ru mbs s o a ke d in mil k
s t i in the wh i te s and h al f fill the cas e s wh ic h
h ave b ee n p rev i ou sly o il e d wi th b utter B a k e
fr o m five to te n min ute s the n s et e ac h ram aq u in
o n a pla te c over e d wi th a fancy d o yl ey and plac e
b e fo re the din e r ere ther e h as b ee n t im e fo r it
t o fall
,
,
r
,
,
.
,
,
,
r
,
,
.
,
.
Th e
64
Model Kit chen
can als o u s e a very light ba tter fo r
ram a u in s and fl avou r w ith c u ra o a
ins
te
ad
o
r
q
c ;
o f c hee s e in the p r ev i ou s r e cip e u s e fin e ly c h o pp e d
n uts and a fl av o u ring o f Ki rsc h o r P ru n ell e and
l eav ing o u t the p epper add a pinc h o f s ugar
Yo u
,
,
,
,
.
,
UP
R I HT
G
,
R A MA Q UIN
.
To ma ke a s c uffl e is by n o m eans a di ffi c ul t
ac h i ev e m e n t b ut s u cc e ss d e p ends e n ti ely u po n
the a tte n ti o n gi e n to min ute d etails and th i
is wh y p erh aps so v e y o fte n i t is n t a s u cce ss
To b egin wi th the fl ou m u s t b e o f a par
n fl o u r d oe s ve r y we ll
t ic u l rl y lig ht qu ali t y ; c
b ut the F e nc h c ook u s e s féc u l e o r p ta to fl o u r
Th is y o u find am o ng th e
wh ic h is fa b ette r
G o u l t p e para t i o ns and a pac ket w ill las t qu i te
a l o ng t im e
Ta ke a pin t o f mil k and p ut i t o n to b o il
u sing ne o f y ou lin e d sa u c e pans fo r the p u rp o s e ;
p ut wi th the mil k wh a te er is go ing to gi ve t h e
b e i t a pi ec e o f a
so u fli é i t s dis t inc t i v e fl a vou r
o r the g a te d r ind o f an o rang e
o d o f v ani ll a
p
l e m n ; add to i t a qu ar te o f a pou nd o f
l u mp s ugar and whe n i t is n early b o ilin g s ti r
r
,
v
,
r
,
,
s
o
.
r
,
or
a
,
r
,
r
r
o
-
,
.
r
,
.
,
r
o
v
,
r
,
or
o
r
,
,
,
French Firep roof China Dishes
65
in a he aping tabl e sp oo n fu l o f féc u l e p rev i ou sly
wette d w i th c ol d mi l k ; s t i r rapidly a fter th is
u n t il a s tiff pas te 18 fo rm e d the n w i th d raw fro m
the fi re and l et i t b e co m e c old Y o u can ma k e
th is pas te s o m e t im e in adv anc e W he n ready
to u s e add to i t by d egree s the b eate n yo l k s o f
th r ee eggs and las tly t h e wh is k ed wh i te s O il
the so u fll é m ou ld and tu n the ba tte r in to it
n ot al l ow ing i t to fill m o r e th an a th i d o f the
d e p th Set i t p o mp tly in a b r is k ove n and bake
fr o m fi ftee n to t we n t y min ute s ; s er v e whe n r is e n
and br ow n wi thout a m o m e n t s d elay simply
spr in kling p o wd ere d s ugar ov e r the to p R u m
mad e hot o r sweet w in e o r a th in c ho c o la te
sa u c e all acc o rd we ll as acc o mpanim e n ts o r
t h e so u fll é may b e s te am e d fo r ab out th i ty
min ute s whe n i t make s a m o s t d elica te s weet
fo r an inv alid
Y o u can ma ke a sa vou ry s ou ffl e
if th a t is p r e fe r r e d by adding p e pp e r and sal t
to the pas te in the fi r s t ins tanc e the n gra te d
c hee s e a t the t im e whe n the eggs are wor k e d in
G r o u l t s c he s t n ut fl o u r als o ma ke s an e xc e ll e n t
so u fi é to wh ic h a f e w b o il e d and mas he d c he st
n ut s can b e add e d H ot c r e am s hould acc o mpany
th is las t
The gam e pi e dis h o othe r ov al c overe d
dis he s in fi re p roo f c h ina se ve as I said a t fi r s t
fo r all k inds o f salmi s and réc/ mufl ées o f m ea t
,
,
.
,
.
,
,
,
.
,
r
,
r
r
.
,
’
,
.
,
,
,
,
r
,
.
,
,
,
.
’
i
-
,
.
.
-
,
,
r
r
,
,
,
F
Th e
66
Model Kitchen
gam e o r p oul t ry It is b etter to make the gravy
or
s au c e fi rs t o f all in a sa u c epan as i t w ill
p ro bably n ee d b o iling ; t h e n t o tu rn it in to t h e
inn er dis h and lay in th is wh a tev er is go ing to
.
,
,
,
CO ER ED P D I S H
b e r ehea te d R e mains o f gam e and p oul t ry are
imp ro v e d by be ing j u s t lightl y brow n e d in b utte r
b e fo r e they ar e p ut in to the sa u c e ; b u t m e a t may
b e c ut in th in slic e s o r squ are s and b e all owe d
to simm er as l o ng as tim e all ow s The piq u ancy
and qu al i ty of the sa u c e o r gravy w i th i t s das h
o f win e
ma ke s the c h i ef el e m e n t o f s u cc e ss in
al l s uc h réc/ auf ées and the or nam e n tal dis h i t s el f
acc o mpli s he s th e r e s t
I E-
V
.
.
,
.
,
,
z
,
.
A E
G M
D I S H C U S C OL U R
P I E-
,
R
T
O
.
Th e
68
Model Ki t chen
and y ou h ave s u ppl i e d the n ec e ssa ry fat min eral
and b ul k th a t was wan te d t o ma ke a m eal
F r u i t and n uts are an e xampl e o f p er fec t h arm o n y
as a d e ss e r t b e ca u s e n ut s gi ve u s n ou r is h m e n t in
a c o nc e n tra te d fo rm w i th o ils and fr u i t ab o u nds
in el e m e n t s who s e O fli ce i t is to diss ol ve and car ry
:
O H o bs t r u c t ing ma tte r s and the y als o inc r e as e the
ac ti v i ty o f the dige s ti o n
M in e al matter wh ic h we s o m et im e s dis r egar d
in o u dail y r a t i o ns is n eed e d to giv e s o lidi ty
to the b o n e s t iss ue s and m u scl es ; we find th i s
in g ee n veg et abl e s fr u i t s and s o m e c er e als I n
so m e g ree n veg et abl e s we find p ot as h in e xc e ss
and h ave to c o u n terac t th is b y tak i ng c o mm o n
sal t he nc e i t is an in stinc t o f tr u e tas te th a t l eads
u s to c o o k g ee ns in sal te d wa ter to e a t sal t w i th
p ota toe s and so fo r th W e s e rve gr ee n v ege
tabl e s th a t are s tro ng in min eral sal t s wi th m ea t s
wh ic h a e r ich in ni troge n W hea t wh e n l e ft
wi th all i t s na tu r al c o ns t i tue n t s i s an alm o s t
per fec t foo d b ut in b r e ad i t l ac k s fat o r O il
he nc e o u r c rav ing fo r b utter Wi th c o o ke d
c er eals we find c re am far m o r e pala tabl e th an
mil k and the r eas o n is n ot fa to s ee k R ic e
is p u r e s tarc h whe n se rv e d al o n e b ut in c o m
binat i o n wi th mil k o r b roth i t fo m s p e fec t
foo d
Gr ee n v eg etabl e s are m o r e n utr i t i o u s m o r e
,
,
.
,
,
'
,
.
r
,
r
,
,
r
,
,
,
.
,
r
,
.
,
r
.
,
,
,
,
.
,
r
.
,
r
r
.
,
S election
d
an
Com bination of Food s
69
pala tabl e and m o re app etising if serve d w i th a
cream o r egg sau c e afte r b e ing c ooked pr e ss ed
and tu r n ed i nto a s h ap e Th is appli e s als o to
many r oot vegetab l e s li ke turnips par snips "e ru
sal e m a r t ic h oke s and salsi fy
c el e ry and c el er iac
I n ee d hard ly say how m u c h a b utter sau c e im
prove s eve ry k ind o f b eans and p e as The plac e
o f s al ads is w ith the g r ee n veg etab l e s fo r al thou g h
the re is b ut a sm al l am ou n t o f n ou ris h m e n t to
b e gain ed fro m the m they are in v al uabl e as
bloo d p ur ifi er s te mp ters o f app eti te and help the
dig e s ti o n o f oth er th ings
B ut in addi ti o n to the sci e n t ific s tu dy we
b r ing to b ea r u p o n the s e l ec ti o n o f foo d there
is the ve ry impor ta nt fac tor o f goo d tas te to c o n
sid er : i t is bad tas te to b r ing two fr i e d dis he s
two wh i te o n e s t wo th ings cl o s ely r e s e mbling
o n e an other yet clas h ing in fl av ou r two dis t inc t
acids t wo o ppo s e d sa u c e s cl o s e tog ethe r in the
m e n u F oo d m ay b e we ll c oo k e d and a t the
sam e tim e badly c o mbin e d ; he nc e again i t is a
fail u r e and pl e as e s n o o ne
A s a ru l e o ne may
“
take i t th a t wh a t is c o nsid ere d c o rre c t is
ge n erally sp ea k ing fou nd to b e so really ; fo r the
c/ e wh o r u l e s in cl u b and hote l and r e s t a u ran t
f
is a m an O f ae s t h etic j u dgm e n t and h is cr i tics
ab ove s tai rs are ad e p ts in the ar t o f d in ing he nc e
wh a t he dic tate s and they approve b e c o m e s the
,
,
,
,
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,
,
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,
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,
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,
,
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z
,
,
,
,
,
Th e
0
7
Model Kit chen
s tandar d by wh ic h o utsid ers j u dge c o nd e mn and
are in fl ue nc e d
I n the sm all hou s ehol d w i th l imi te d hel p
the art is t ic and sci e n t ific arrange m e n t o f a m e n u
r e s o l v e s i t s e l f ra the r
in to a s tudy fi rs t o f c o n
v e n ie nce
A s tove cann ot b e c r ow d e d with a
n u mb er o f th ings all r equ i r ing a tte n t i o n a t the
sam e m o m e n t n o r can a c oo k f y ma ke sa u c e
c r u s h a p u ré e and d re ss veg etabl e s all at the
sam e ti m e H e nc e wh a t i t is po ssibl e to d o and
wh a t o n e would li ke t o d o h ave to b e take n
as m od erator s o n e O f an othe r B ut in s tu dying
the matter i t is Ofte n fou nd th a t the p o ssibl e
gro ws o n the imaginat i o n and th at wher e the re
is a w ill to do ther e c an g e n erally b e fo u nd a
capaci ty fo r d o ing H e nc e i t is well to l et the
que s ti o n o f W h at s h all we h ave for dinn er
r e s o l v e i t s e l f in to a bl e nd O f h a r m o ny
t o day
capabili ty and s u i tabili ty
H er e I gi v e as s ugge s t i o ns a lis t o f s uc h c o m
b in ed foo ds as are c o rr e c tly s er v e d tog ethe r
,
,
.
,
,
.
r
,
,
,
,
.
.
,
,
,
,
.
-
,
,
.
,
W ith
all
cl
ear sou
t oast
,
p
s, serve
h i c k w hi t
fi sh so ps
u
r
o r ro
rea
ll b k d c
s,
a e
ru st s o r
.
t
c
b d
e sou
p
ser
v
e
,
g t d ch
l i g h t fl ky ks
ra e
s, serv e
eese
ru s
a
or
.
bi c it
s u
s, o r
ro u t o n s.
i c h d t h i ck p l i k m c k t t l
b i l d gg l i d d t l m
an
o
e
so u
e
s s
ce
s
e
o
n
a
,
cu
ur
e
e, se rv e
on
.
d
h ar
W ith
Com bin ation
and
Sel ection
o
f Foods
1
7
b il d fi h
c H ll d i p l y
h i m p c b il d p t t c m b
ld
i g
wi t h F n c h d
bkd fih
p t t b ll nd c i p l t t c
l d wi t h d i g
f i d fi h if m l l
c lm
T t
d
d d b tt
t b
f i d fi h if l g
b il d
wh i p p d
ptt lm
c
m it
d h dt l b t t
db
d
pl i b i l d d b i l d p t t
ip c m
nd p
ll
o
a
s
e
se rv e
,
s r
sau e ,
o
s , se rv e
a e
s
an
r e
s
,
cu
s ,
ar
o a o,
an
rea
o
e
er sa a
u cu
r s
a s a
e
u e
e
on,
.
- u
sau e,
ar ar
er.
se rv e
e,
n
sau
o
e
or
ars e
.
r
s
e
e
v
,
rea
an
a se,
o a o es,
o a o
a
an
o
e
ress n
sa a
r e
e
ress n
re
a n
sau
o
e, o r
or
e
’
re
a
e
e r,
u
e
.
co
o
,
arsn
o a o es a
e
s,
rea
wh
ipp d
sau c e.
c ream e
p
o
d
h al i b
c o d,
u t,
b
tu r ot,
or
se rv e
e
o t at oes.
yt
b
s e rs an
ro
war
e
o
c
s ar
serve
s,
u t t e r,
an d
l
a
et t u
e
ar,
sa
c ream e
d p
peas
o t at o es an d
a
,
e.
sau
rea e
b
i g
c lad
em on o r v n e
s.
b il d h p
h p c
b d d ch p
ptt
b i d
ro
an d
rea
l
fi
- sh serv e
,
e
b d
d
wn
aft e r
sh ll
d m ost
o
s, serv e t o m at o sau
c
e, c
h ips
o
r
,
bkd
a e
o a o es.
o r ro ast
ra se
l
t ab es an d
m ut t on
ro w n sau
c
se rv e a
c d in
ma
o
e
e O f v ege
e.
en ca sser ol e, se rv e
po t at
or
b
m u t t on,
b il d i
o
r c e,
e
h ed
m as
t u rn
ip
s
o es
.
t m t
ll d m t t
k
p tt
t
c q tt t w d c t F n h b
b il d b f t k
l tt
l d w i t h pl i
F
hd i g
b i d t k d B dl i
c
ptt
m h
m
b ll F c h b
fl
t bl
w
n
g
g
c
l
i
t b
f
n
y
h t t i b wn c p ni p f i t t s Y k
h i p dd i ng
ro
e
ro
ro
on
u
ue
e
es, s e
ren c
a
roas
c
s
ress n
ree
ee , a
re
u
or
n
ro
.
e
e a se
eans o r
re n
es n u s
arro s o r
se rv e
a o sau c e,
o
re
o a o
ean s.
c
a n
u c e sa a
.
an
s ea
s,
e
s ea s,
ee
ra se
s ea , se rv e
or
us
ve
e a
sau
e,
sau
ro o
e
ars
or
e,
o a o
se rv e
s.
au
r
er,
o
er
,
or
or
Th e
2
7
W ith
b il d b f
c t dp
fi ll t f b f
o
ee , se rv e
e
arro s an
c ro
q
arsn
wh
o a o es o r
e
o
ips
it b
e
ean s,
.
hr
o o m s and sau
m us
ee , serv e
e s O
co
Model Kitchen
b il d p t t
c p
o tat o
e,
u et t es.
ld
ro ast
b
an
d ro ast e
h orserad i sh
ee f, se rv e c ream
ld
sau c e, sa a
dptt
c ld b i l d b f
l d m y nn i
t
m h d p t t
ld t g
p t t
ld b w b d
d b tt
l c t l t nd t m t
c
i c b ll p
c
dc
f
f i
d
l
pi n ch c l i fl w p é
f
l ch i y
di
ld
m y n i
f
c ld
l
l y m hd
ptt
bkd
b i l d h m h m p gn c i d o p pl
c
t j ll y
t p
k
bkdptt
ppl p é g
g t bl
g
bkdptt c kd l y t m
f i d p pl
t
t l mb
c k d c c mb
pi n c h p
d
c
w p t t
mi t
d gg
b i l d c hi ck
i
c
b il d
i
cl y
k l nd b i l d h m
tt
ic
p tt
t
d
t chi k
w
q
ch t t i
t w d c l y
p
it
c
l c h i ck
g t bl nd
w
c p f itt
f wl
ld hi ck
h m nd m y nn i
l d l tt
cl y
t t
ky p tt
h t t c oq t t s and c n
b y c
kl
l p t
B
o
o a oes.
e
o
sau c e,
as
e
o n u e,
co
an
u
se rv e
o
o a o
a
n
ro
sa a ,
a o sau e, se rv e r
v ea , se rv e s
eau o
a
c o r , o r en
se rv e
v ea ,
o
,
re a
eas,
a s,
e
or n .
so r re ,
o
a se
a o
o a oes.
e s a
ann e
r c an
sa a
e r.
u
v ea
se rv e a c arro
ee ,
v e sa a
n a se
a o
,
ur e
e r,
o
au
.
as e
c e er ,
o
o a o es.
or
a e
o
e
e , o r c u rran
sau
o r , se rv e
ro as
e a
ve
r e
n
o
es n u s
eas,
en
sa a ,
roas
e
ur
e rr
e
e or
sau
c e er ,
e
o
a
ers, s
u
r
or
or
a
eas,
o a o es.
an
sau
e
o
o a o c ro
se rv e
,
s
e
a
or
n
o
se rv e
o
ve
e
.
es, se rv e s e
ue
e er
e
e,
e
eas.
e a
es
a
ers.
o
u ce o r
,
u
ne
r ce
en
e,
e
n sau c e , s e
asse ro e
c
e
reen
u r e,
e
oo
e e r , sea- a e, a
e n, r
c
o a o es,
oo
e n s,
o n ons o r
co
a
es.
e, an
e
sau
o a oes, a
a e
a
sau
roas
r
.
a e
rv
s
e
e
,
a
ro as
e
er,
e,
a
a
es.
sau sa es, se rv e
o es,
c
,
a
,
serv e
e er
o a o or c
a
a
a o
a se
.
es n u
e, se rve sea- a e o r
r
ue
e ,
ra
ru sse s s ro u s.
Selection and Com bination of Foods 7 3
W i t h c ld t k y
p i c n t nd l t t c
t om t
ld
g i n f wl
pt m i g
b il d b c n d
h m i ny
i c f it t
wi
t fli n g
t d ck p t t
b wn d
nd n i
i p t w d l i fy g
p
p g
t
c ld d i tt
p i c j lly c hi c y d d l i
g ld
g l d ic f itt
bkd
w i ld d ck
b dc m b
t
ph
b w d c mb p t t c q tt
c b y j lly
t
y
wn g
m ll b i d
t
th i
nd p g h t t i
pi g n
ll f f i d b c n t w d c l y
p
nd t
n ip
bb i t t w d b i l d
i
ptt
i
bkdptt
d ny d l i c t
g t bl
l i k m w t i h k t w d c bb g
kl
i
d p
t w d
d
w tb
m
m h
m
c
f i d
b i d w tb d
b w
c nd
p
t
d
f
i
l
p
l
y
t
t
m
t
q
p
b wn c m h m
d l tt c
ld
c q tt f fi h
b tt
c ptt
t
i
d
c
i
p
ll
d
m
g
f i d
t e
b w
c d ld
wh it
nt e
d ic
m
c
w h ip p d p t t
ur e
o
sa a
u
serv e
,
ea
u
s, s e
o ran
e sa a
rea
as
e
e rs
.
ro
se
r
ve
,
e
eas, or as ara u s.
or
,
an
,
o n, o r
e
.
e sa a
r
,
e
ers or
r
a
e
.
easan , se rv e
e rr
a
r
e
,
a o
e
s
ru
ra n
r
e
re e n
,
r
n
v
r
o
s
e
e
a
,
u
ro
on s u
o
sa s
e
o , serv e
o
or r
o
o a o a
,
u rn
an , se rv e
ar
or
o
ro as
ru
o a o
s,
ro
ue
es,
.
on
sau c e, a
ne
ro
e
r s
o as ,
s a
e
s, se rv e ro
eo
,
e
u
e
a
u
.
n e sau c e,
s
as
a o
e r
se rv e
rav
o
or
.
s o
a o
r e
s e
,
e
e er
or
ur
s,
ru n es.
ra
s
e
,
e
or
o
n
n
s
a
r
v
s
e
e
o
o
,
e
o a o es.
v e n so n ,
arro
e
s e
sa
r e
s
e
ar
,
c
rea s,
ee
e sau
or
o a o es, an
a e
o
a
es, s e
us
se rv e
a e or
a
e
e a
a e ve
e
s an
ro o
e
a e.
n
eas
e.
ra se
s
ee
rea s, se rv e
n sau e, a
ro
eas.
c ro
e s an
ue
eas,
ro u e
ra
r e
ro
sau
es o
s ,
n o r c rea
e
e,
r es
,
e
e
e rv e w i th
us
serv e
n
a
,
e n r es, serv e a
e
S
r sso es O
serv e
ro
a
or
ea
s, an
ro o
u
er
r s
n sau
c rea
ou
e
sau e,
ro
r ,
se rv e
e sa a
u
.
o a oe s a u
s.
e an
sau
sa a
e, an
.
r
e,
or
o a o.
an
y
m ea t
o ne
s tarc h y
and
o ne
Th e
74
Model Kitchen
gr ee n veg etabl e o r sal ad ; the last m ay b e plac e d
o n t h e tabl e b e fo r e dinn e r is annou nc e d
B r ead and p otatoe s n ee d no t acc o m p any o ne
an other at the sam e t im e no r s h oul d r ic e and
p otatoe s Sever e acids o ver p ower and n eutralis e
the al kal in e s ol ut i o ns o f th e m outh ther efo r e
v in egar and all s u c h th ings s h ou ld no t b e ta ke n
wi th b read o r s ta rc h y foo ds bu t o nly in c o m
binat i o n w i th O il in sal ads : r e m e mb er th a t as
v in egar pre s erves th ings out sid e the s to mac h so
i t r e n d er s the i r dige s t i o n difli c ul t i nsid e Spic e s
and c o ndim e n t s are st im u lan t s and in m od erat i o n
the y qu ic ke n dig e s t i o n M u c h sal t is ap t t o d u ll
the pala te and d e s tr oy the d elica te p erce p t i o n o f
othe fl avour s al tho u gh if sparingly u s ed in the
c ook ing o f foo d i t br ings o u t the natu ral fl avour
Tea s h ou ld n eve r b e ta ke n whe n e a ting s hell
fis h o r fis h o f any k ind ; as an as tr ing e n t i t
h ard e ns the fib re s and i t h as the sam e e ff ec t o n
m eat O n th e other h and c o ff ee i nc re as e s the
ac ti v i ty o f the in te s t inal glands and s o m et im e s
ac ts as a laxa t i ve W a ter s hould no t b e t a ke n
in l arg e qu an ti t i e s wi th foo d b ut if no t ic e d i t
may b e d ru n k b efo r e and after It helps towards
an in te rc h ang e o f ma ter ials th roughout the b o dy
and aids the abs orp t i o n o f n ew m aterial s in to the
b l oo d and tiss ues
M il k s h ou ld n eve r b e s erv ed w i th m eat no r
.
,
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X
A FEW
SA VOURY MA DE DI S HES
AN D EN T R EES
H E di r ec ti o n s fo r a few s el ec te d dis he s
wh ic h f oll ow a e gi v e n to assis t the you ng
hou s e wi fe wh o is in s e arc h o f s o m eth ing
“
n ove l and dain ty wh er ewi th to l e ng the n a
m e n u al r ead y c o mpil e d whe n an u n exp ec te d
g ue s t h as appe ar e d o n the sc e n e and to he lp in
t h e c o mpila t i o n whe n a pl ann e d dinn e r is in
pr oj ec t M any o f the s e e n trées might s erve as
pr incipal dis he s in the bill o f far e fo r a small
dinn er party
A s a r u l e the e n tr é e is a dis h s e rve d b e fo re the
j o in t the e n tr e m et is o n e wh ic h fo ll ows i t ; an
e n tr e m et is O fte n se rve d c o ld whe n i t is d e signa te d
a c/ a uafi oid B oth e n t é e and e n tr e m et can b e
mad e a m e ans o f ut ilising r e mains o f othe r dishe s
l eft o ver ; t h e c h au d fr o id ind eed is ge n erally
c o mp o s e d o f small s o lid bi t s o f m eat p ou l try o r
gam e wh ic h r e main o r h ave els e b ee n c o o k ed fo r
r
,
,
.
-
.
,
,
,
z
r
.
,
,
,
,
,
,
A
Few
S av ou ry M ade Dishes
R
d Ent rees 7 7
'
an
IC E C R OQ UETT ES C A UL I LOWER A ND SA U C E
F
,
OT A TO
P
HA E FLA E D
S
P
,
K
COD
AND P A R SL E
M ACA R O NI A ND M U S H R OOM TI M A L
B
E.
Y
.
.
Th e
8
7
Model Kit chen
the pu p o s e ; th e s e are s er ve d in aspic o j el ly
a uc e A agO t o r minc e may b e s e rve d in the
sam e sa u c e and et in fancy m ou lds o u s ed as
the filling O f a c e n t e o f a pic Let u s take the
mak ing o f the s e fi s t
W h a teve is u s e d b e i t m e a t fis h p ou l t y
ga m e o vegetabl e i t m u s t b e ve ry n e atly and
tas te fully h ap ed ; ther e m u s t b e a c o n t as t o f
c o l ou r and m a terial if p o ssib l e and s o m eth ing
th a t will s e ve as ga nis h The n ex t imp o tan t
p in t is the abs o l utely sm ooth c oa ting o f sa u c e o
j ell y and as the p e pa a t i o n O f th is c ns t i tute s the
c h i e f difli c u l ty we will b egin by i ts mixing and
ma k ing The ing edi e n t s O f a c h au d f o id sau c e
d e p end o n the c ol ou i t is in te nd ed to b e : a wh i te
sa u c e h a béc h am e l o vel outé fo i t s fou nda t i o n
a b own o ne h as e spagn o l e o is th ic ke n ed wi th
—
b own r ux ; a ed o te r a c otta is p oduc e d by
va ying mix tu re s o f to m a to a nd othe b o wn
sa c e and pin k i pr o d u c e d by t inging béc h am el
vel outé wi th c o c h in eal
O the v eg etabl e
o
c ol u ings giv e othe s h ad e s g ee n y ell ow etc
D iessen F ou nda t i o n sau c e s wh ic h we incl u d e in
ou
Sto e C l o s et lis t a e e xc e ll e n t fo the p u r p o s e
b ut if n ot at h and the n ma ke the fou nda t i o n by
mixing together an o nc e eac h o f b utte and fl ou
—
pin
t
o
f
li
qu
id
ve
r y cl e a
an d dil ut ing w i th 4
;
wa ter ; whe n th is h as b o il e d and is
sto c k o
r
S
r
r
.
u
s
,
s
r
r
.
.
r
,
r
,
r
,
r
,
,
,
s
r
,
,
r
r
r
.
r
o
r
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,
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r
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,
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r
u
s
,
r
r
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r
A Few Sav ou ry Made Dishes
an
d Entrees 7 9
p e rfec tl y sm ooth add wh i l s t h o t an equ al qu an t i ty
o f s tr o ng aspic j elly th a t is j ell y wh ic h is qu i te
s ol id whe n co ld The aspic j elly gi ve s the glassy
transpare n t app earanc e whe n c old b ut n eeds
s o m e s k ill in mas k ing The sa u c e thu s mad e
m u s t c oo l d ow n b e fo r e i t is p ut ove r the Obj ec t
to b e mas ked yet i t m u s t b e s t il l war m e n ough
to fl o w fr eely W h ils t u sing s tand the pan wh ic h
holds the sau c e in a basin o f tepid wa te r to keep
i t a t the r ight po in t as l o ng as p o ssib l e H old
each Obj ec t wh ic h i t is d e si red t o c oa t s e para tely
u po n a b road blad ed pal ette k ni fe and wi th the
other h and p ou r a sp oo n ful o f the sa u ce over i t
the n sl id e o ff o n to a dis h to c oo l A final c o a ting
o f li qu id aspic gi v e s a b r ighte r glaz e if s u c h is
n eed ed I n mask ing a l arger o bj ec t li ke a fowl
o r j o in t s t and i t o n a w i r e si e v e o r gr id sla n t ing
i t a li ttl e and p ou r the sa u c e fr eely over i t as far
as p o ssibl e c overi ng the whol e s u r fac e a t o n e s weep
l eav ing no bar e plac e s anywhere
The arrangem e n t o f a c h a ud fr o id is largely
a ma tter o f tas te b ut a t l e as t i t gi ve s sc o p e fo r
m u c h or iginali ty All d e p e nd s o n wh a t the
ma ter ial s are wh ic h are b e ing u s ed You may lin e
a m ou ld wi th a spic an d whe n th i s h as s et fill in
w i th pi e c e s O f m e a t fish o r p ou l tr y and sa u c e ;
the n s et the whol e w i th m o re aspic and if the
m o u ld is a ci rc ular o ne wi th holl ow c e n tr e th is
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Th e
80
Model Kit chen
may b e fill e d w i th c ho pp e d asp ic o f a di ff er e n t
c ol our M u c h o r n am e n tatio n s ho ul d no t b e
a tte mp ted i t is b etter tas te to aim at simpl e
eff ec ts ; b ut in smal l m oulds o n e may c ut a s ta r
o u t O f tr u ffl e s o r a g he r k i n and plac e th is a t the
b ottom o r w i th c old b o il e d wh i t e o f egg ma ke
oth er fancy d ev ic e The indi vid u al m ou ld is
always a favou r i te fo r m o f c h a u d fr o id fo r a li ttl e
aspic and a sp oo n fu l o f min ced c h ic ke n in cr ea m
and a li ttl e gar nis h make together a dain ty tri fl e
a t small co s t
Wi th a goo d b r o w n sa u c e we ma k e a p r etty
c h au d fr o id o f c utl ets o r O f small bi r ds b o n e d and
s tuffe d the n c ooke d and c ut in h al f cove re d wi th
sau c e and arr anged in a cir cl e r ou nd a li ttl e heap
o f c ho pp e d aspic o r o f v eg et abl e s en ma céa ine
C utl et s s hould b e c ut ver y small and d elica tely
fr i e d ; small bi r ds are ba k ed o r gr i ll e d and a
fo wl th a t is b o il e d o r b r ais e d s hou ld n ot b e c ut
u p u n t il i t is c ol d All rou gh bi ts s k in and
gris tl e m u s t b e r e m ove d b efor e any th ing els e is
d o n e Fis h is b o il ed o r ba ke d u nd er b uttere d
pap er the n s k inn ed wh ils t hot and b roke n in to
pi ec e s o f the s h ap e and siz e requ i r ed b ut n ot
c oa ted u n t i l c old T inn ed fis h in fl ak e d pi e c e s
mix e d w i th sa uc e ma ke s a goo d filling
o r dic e
fo r aspic cas e s
Fo r any th ing ve ry sp e ci al li ke
the b r eas t po r tio n s o f a c h ic k e n o r O f gam e a
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A
Few
S av oury Made Di shes
an
d Entr ees 8 1
l i ttl e wh ipp e d c r eam is mix e d wi t h l iqu id aspic
the m eat b e ing c ut o r minc e d ve ry smal l and
lightly mix ed in the n m ould e d and s et o n ic e
I n ma k ing fancy s h ap e s r e m em b er th at an
aspic lining m u s t s et fi rm b e fo r e any fill ing is
p ut i n and th a t the filling m u s t i ts el f b e j u s t o n
the p o in t o f s etting als o thoug h s till fl u id e n ough
to fall in to plac e
I n a tte mp ting en trees and all mad e di she s yo u
fi nd out how ve r y n ec e ssary i t b e c o m e s to h ave
the s tor e cl o s et wel l s to c ke d wi th he rbs and sp ic e s
and th ings O f li ke k ind Wi thout the s e s uc h
savou ry c o mbina t i o ns as we s eek ar e ve ry di ffi c u l t
to a ttain Ent rees are no t s o m u c h a quest i o n
i t tak e s b ut a li ttl e
o f e xp e ns e as o f manag e m e n t
mater ial to evol ve s o m eth ing o f th is na tu r e b ut
th a t li ttl e m u s t b e goo d and c ho ic e
The mincing mac h in e o r c ho pp e r and the
veg etabl e c utte r are in val uabl e aids and the
fou nda tio n sa u c e s the c o l ou r ing and fl av o u r i ng
e ss e nc e s the pi quan t V in egars and othe r spic e s
all add the i r s ervic e
R e mains O f m ea t eve n the v er i e s t sc raps
whe n pass e d th ro u gh the minc e r and mix e d wi th
ar o ma tic herb s and s eas o ning w i th a li ttl e fat h am
a few c ru mbs s o a k e d in
o r bac o n als o minc e d
gravy and e n ou gh sau c e to m ou ld all tog ethe r
may b e s h ap ed in to dimin ut i v e c utl ets the n
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G
Th e
82
Model Ki tchen
dipp ed in ba tter and fr i ed in b o ili ng fat and pil e d
o n a dis h a t iny pi ec e o f macaro ni ins er ted in
eac h to r e pr e s e n t b o n e They n eed a th ic k grav y
to acc o mpa ny them ther e fo re are b e st s e rve d in a
s il v e r dis h the gr av y p o u r e d in to the c e n tr e
C u rr i e s O f vegetabl e s o r o f eggs m a ke ex
c e l l e n t e n tr é e s and a salmi o r sa vou r y s tew w i th
win e o ne o f a r ic her class
Fill ets o f v eal
gr e nadin e s veal en bl nquette ( th a t is in a sau c e
to wh ic h c r e am h as b ee n add e d) and fill ets o f
b ee f ga r nis h e d afte r any mann e r y o u pl eas e are
als o ent ree dis he s SO again ar e li ttl e made u p
savo u ri e s wh ic h are s er v ed in pas t ry cas e s li k e
b ou c h é e s t i m bal e s etc A nd maca r o ni in vari ou s
for ms may c o m e in to th is ca tego ry als o
The pas try cas e s s hou ld b e mad e o f fl a ky
as th is i r eal ly nic er th an
o r ve r y s ho r t c r u st
p uff pas te b ut if a vol au ve n t i d e si re d o nly
p u ff pas te is p o s sibl e The sa u c e u s e d wi th the
filling o f a vol au ve n t is ric h als o g e n eral ly w i th
a c ream addi ti o n and a ve ry wh i te m eat o r fis h
in fl a ke s o r pic ke d s h rimps are add e d to i t
O ne o f the nic e s t li ttl e e n t r é e s y o u can w is h
—
fo r and e asily made is a well fl av o u red minc e
m e at in c rou s tad e s garnis hed w i th car ef u ll y
Of
p oac he d eggs
Th e fo ll ow i ng s ho rt lis t may b e u s e fu l as a
g u id e and s ugge s t other s
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,
T he Model Kitch en
B eef
c rou
B eef
O
e
gg
li
q
i l
mi c d b f i c
u et t es o r r sso es.
n e
v es
n
ee
ases O f
idb d
fr
rea ,
e
w
it h
s.
c t l t i pi c d i t t m k d in t m t j lly
c tl t
d h t
d j d i ie
m c ed i n
h m
té w i t h b c n n d m
Sh p k i d n y
V l c tl t
i
t
i
i
d
i
t
é
t
t
p
p
f
d f i é i c m c
t w d
Sw t b
bl
F wl c h i ck n
c id i my ni
mi c d
i
pi c
Pi g n h l d w i t h p
m h
m
l mi i
pic t
t
n t
Sm ll g m b i d
R g ar fi
ié
c i f g t bl f fi h t
f p l t y m i nc d
l h im p t
B d
f g m
p lt y
Ch t
m
c c mb
b gi n
St ff d t m t
m h
Mu t ton
M u t ton
o
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e s
u
a
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e , a ux
rea s,
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ou
au
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et c
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u rr e
e
e, o r s e
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u rr es o
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ou
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a se, o r
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es, o
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ar reu ses o
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or
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or
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s
ea
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u
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s,
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er
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e s,
.
Ent re m et s
(
j i
aft er t h e
o nt
)
Ham , in sl i c es, h o t , w i t h c h am pagn e o r w i ne
Ham , in sl i c es, co ld , w i t h sau c e t art are
sau
c
e.
.
T o n g u e,
gl
M y n i
A pic j ll i
in
,
a ses O f al l
a on
e s,
e
s
d
az e
O m el et t es,
fi
a n con
M acaro n i
l
w
a ux
t u r e,
w
ith
fi
pic
ki d
as
n
,
o r en sa l ade.
s.
wi t ho u t
or
her bes,
nes
ot
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e
ha mpignonr,
a ux c
d a r u m et c .
,
it h ch
e ese
p gh tt i
s a
e
e
t
c
.
,
C au i fl o wer d a g r a t in, a u f r omage,
B eigm t s
Fr itt ur a
Soufi ées
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es
l
l
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l
d
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sa a s
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et c .
au
m or e,
A
Few
Sav ou ry Made Dishes and Entrees
FI S H CU L E S
T
SM
A LL G A ME
OM
E L ET
,
T
.
BI R D SI O N
A Ux
T
O
AT
S
F IN ES HE R S
BE
.
”
.
85
XI
THE COO KING OF VEGETAB LES
AND DRESS IN G OF SALADS
—
N fin e c ookery c oo k e y wh ic h b el o ngs to
the fin e o d er f k i tc he n wh ic h we a e
d ealing wi th and wh ic h is the reas o nabl e
—
f
o
outco m e
b ette ute nsils carefu lly u s ed t h e
ca e w i th wh ich we t e a t vegetabl e s is o ne f
the m o s t n ot ic eabl e fea tu e s o r i t o ght to b e
W e cann ot admi t sl ove nli n e ss an y m or e th an we
can admi t m o n oto ny in c ho ic e fo b oth a the
r e s u l t O f ign o r anc e and we
e n t ign ran t
W ell d ess e d veg etabl e s gi ve an air o f di
tinc ti o n to any r epas t h weve impl e a dain tily
s e e d sal ad gi ve s a finis h to the sam e Al th ough
we h ave sp o k e n O f savou y dis he s o f veg etabl e s
—
as e nt ees etc as a ul e i t is no t mad e u p o
savou ry d e ssings wh ic h we advoca te fo r very
O fte n the m o e plainly a f e s h veg et abl e is e ve d
the m o e acc e p tabl e i t is ; inv a iabl y t h is is s o
if i t acc o mpani e s m e a t
The savou ry dis he s a e
r
r
r
o
r
,
r
r
r
o
r
u
,
r
,
ar
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-
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re
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r
o
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r s
rv
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r
r
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r
s r
r
r
r
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r
Cooking Vegetables
fO
r
d Dressing
an
S alads
87
s erv ing al o n e and in plac e o f m ea t The r e
fo re i n c o nsid e r ing the i r Simpl er fo r ms o f d r e ssing
o r c ook ing
we h ave to b ea r in mind th a t the
main Obj ec t s in v i ew are the pr e s erva ti o n O f c ol ou r
fl avou r and c h ar ac te r wh il e p e r fe c t dig e s t ibili ty is
n o l e ss a de sid e ra tu m M any p eo pl e l ook as k anc e
a t vegetabl e s b eli ev ing the m to b e di ffi c u l t o f
dige s t i o n b ut if fou nd to b e s o i t is in var iably
d ue t o thei r b e ing ins uffi ci e n tly c oo k ed o r over
d r e ss ed
TO s e c u r e a go o d c o l ou r we m u s t h a v e t he
vegetabl e s p erfec tly fre s h to b egin wi th ; the n
they m u s t b e thoroug h ly cl ean ed b e fo r e any
c oo k ing p ro c e ss is a tte mp te d N eve b e per
su aded in to b u y ing any th ing s t al e o f th is k ind
P e rso nally I would O fte n p refe r to b u y fro m
a c o s ter s s tal l o n th i s acc ou nt th an fro m a s ho p
s imply b e ca u s e the c o s te r h as b ee n t o mar k et and
g ot h is l o ad s traig ht fro m the m ar k et gar d e n e r
and he s ells it out rapidly whe reas the gr ee n
g ro c er h as many d ev ic e fo r k ee ping ove s to c k
th a t sell s m or e sl owl y The id eas o f c ou n t ry
fo l k gi ve o n e s o m e id e a o f wh a t fr e s h an d
s tal e vegetabl e s m ean in the i r o pini o n I k n o w
th a t in the dis tric t whe r e cau l ifl o wer s are grown
in grea t quan t i ty the fi e ld h an ds will n o t e a t
them if they h a v e b ee n c ut l o nge r th an twelve
hou rs ; the goo dn e ss h as al l go n e out O f the m
,
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Th e
88
Model Kitchen
they say Y o u h ave b ut to c o n tras t the fl avou r
o f l imp cabbag e s an d O f t ho s e
fr e s h ly c ut O f
a cauli fl o wer two days Ol d and o ne j u s t gathe re d
to r ealis e wh a t they m e an W e in tow n cann ot
b e s o exac ting b ut we can avo id e at ing wh a t i
Obvi ou sly s tal e and we n eed no t d el u d e our selve
by imagining th a t s o a k ing in w ater w ill r e s tore
qu ali ty I t wil l not
R oot vegetabl e s wh ic h kee p fr e s h a l o ng
tim e if b u ri ed in e ar th n ee d thorough sc r u bbing
b efor e they are pared and they s houl d li e in
c o ld wa ter a li ttl e ti m e b efo re c ook ing G i tty
th ing li k e ea k al e c e l e y salsi fy etc wh ic h
a e e a r the d
u p in o d e r to blanc h the m n eed
to li e in sal t and wa te r and ec e ive m o s t
car e f l w as h ing ig ht in to the very hea t ; and
g ee n vegetabl e s in to wh ic h slugs and ca te pilla rs
find the i easy way r equ i e sal t in the wate r to
di l dg e the m F o m all vegetabl e s pic k u t
da rk and disc o l oure d sp ot s d ecaye d o r b ro k e n
l eave s a the s e may spo il the fl avour o f the e t
P are l d p otatoe s th inly and c rap e r u b the
n ew o n e s w i th a c o ar s e cl oth Tu nip will b ea
a th ic k p eeling ta k e n f o m the m as th is i
O fte n a woo d y fibr e ; par snips and ca r ots a fte r
sc u bbing can b e sc rap ed Salsi fy afte r sc raping
n eed th rowing in to wa ter wi th v in egar as it
so q u ic k l y disc ol ou r s
I n was h ing salad wh ic h
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r
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o
s
s
,
Cooking Veget ables
and
D ressing Salads
89
i t is al ways b e s t to do u n l e ss y ou gather i t
y ou rs el f o u t o f y ou r o wn gard e n whe n simply
w ipi ng the l eave s m y su ffi c e the dry ing is o f
sp ecial imp or tanc e : wire bas k et s wh ic h all ow o f
s winging the l eave s in the o p e n air ar e the nic e s t
th ings to u s e otherw is e a cl e an lin e n cl oth ta k e n
b ut th is las t br ea k s the te nd e r
at the f ou r c o r n e r s
y ou ng l ettu c e and a b etter w ay is to l et t h e l eave s
li e and d rain fo r an hou r o r so b e for e the salad
is wan ted Water in a salad is i t s ru in Lee k s
n eed m u c h and care fu l wa sh ing b ut o ni o ns m u s t
no t to u c h wa te r
Un l e ss othe rw is e exp re ssly s ta te d al l v ege
t abl e s s hou ld b e p ut t o c oo k in b o iling w a te r c o n
W h il e root veg etabl e s s hould b o il thu s
t aining sal t
wi th the lid O f the pan on gr ee n vegetabl e s Shou ld
h ave n o c ove r o r the cov e r b e t il te d the reas o n
in b o th cas e s is the r ete n t i o n O f the c o l our
M any ro ot vegetabl e s whe n p eel ed and slic e d
c oo k ex tre m el y well in a cass er o l e o r other ve ss e l
wi th we ll fi t t i ng lid w i th o nly a li ttl e b utte r o r
d ripping fo r m o is tu re ; they are very savou ry s o
t ea ted and a mix tu re say o f p ota toe s par snips
o ni o n s
and he r bs is very goo d ; o r carr ot s c ut
u p as though they we re F r e nc h b eans and a
pan fill ed wi th the m a sp rin kl ing O f sal t and
p e pp er s o m e b utter and a teasp oo n fu l O f v in egar
p ut in the lid cl o s e d d ow n and an hour s s tead y
,
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,
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’
,
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Th e
0
9
Model Kitc hen
simm er ing gi e n p ro d u c e s a dis h ver y p o p u la r
in D utc h hou seholds Very savou ry i t is t o o
Sea k al e c e l e ry and asparag u s wh ic h whe n
s erv e d li e e v e nl y in the dish n eed t rimming
and tying in b u ndl e s b e fo r e b o iling ; b ut in
b o ili ng asparag u s if y ou h ave n ot a pro p er pan
wh ich kee ps the s tal k s s tanding u p right you
m u s t SO arrange th a t the tops d o n ot go in to
wa ter u n t il the s talk e nds are n ea rly te nd er
o therw is e the tips will b e liabl e to fall o ff b e fo re
C h ic o ry is b o il ed li k e s ea
t h e r e s t is c ooke d
kal e and whe n ser v e d wi th wh i te sa u ce ma k es a
d elici ou s c h ange in sp ring tim e whe n o u r c h o ic e
in vegetabl e s is s o m ewh a t re d uc e d
B eetro ot n eed s v e ry ca r efu l wa sh ing l e s t the
fin e s k in should b e r u bb e d O ff and the fl avou r
b e l o s t ; b ut i t n eeds h ou rs o f s te ad y b o iling to
m a k e the r oo t te nd e r
It s hould n ot b e s ki n n ed
u n ti l c old u nl e ss i t is wan ted fo r a hot dis h wi th
s o m e s h arp sa u c e Us u ally i t is o n e o f o u r salad
r e s e rve s
Spinac h n ee ds the m o s t tho r oug h was h ing i n
s everal wa te rs and a F re nc h c oo k will ta ke the
t rou bl e t o s tr ip all the large r l ea ve s d o wn by the
mid r ib If c ru s he d d own in to a pan a lib e ral
spr in kling o f sal t add ed ther e is no n ee d o f m o re
wa te r wh a t d rains fr o m the l ea ve s b e i ng s u ffi ci e n t
to ma k e steam and the n l e ss pre s sing su fli ces
v
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Th e
2
9
Model Kitchen
c ook ing whe n sal t p e pp er and b utter o r d ripping
m ay b e add e d w i th goo d ad v an tag e ; o r s e rve
them with a c u rry sa u c e o r wi th m el ted b utter
and parsl ey
Vegetabl e mar r ow s we find s o m ewh a t tas tel e ss
and w a te ry b e ca u s e we r a r el y e a t the m u n t il t h e y
ar e fu lly g r ow n o r ove rg row n
wher eas if they
ar e c ut whe n ab out as l o ng as the h and and n ot
m u c h th ic k e r th an c u c u mb ers they are qu i te a
di ff e re n t th ing A t th is s tage they s hould b e
c ooke d wi th the s k in o n and w i thout t h e s eeds
—
b e ing r e m oved ind eed the s eeds h ave ba rely
fo r m ed a t all
A fter b o iling u n t il te nd e r they
di vid ed in h al f and p eel e d to ss e d
ar e d r ain e d
in b utter and s er ve d o n a fr i e d cr outo n w i th a
minc e o f m u s h r oo m o r to ma to wel l s eas o n e d
in the c e n tr e thu s ma k i ng a ve r y te mp t ing dis h
o r s e rve the m plain w i th a c r e amy sa u c e
M u s h r oo ms n ee d s k in n ing and the s tal k s
cutt ing o u t the n to b e s tewed o r simm er ed in
b utter o r fr i ed o r adde d to any o the r s tew
al r eady c ook ing The tiny b utto n m u s h roo ms
ar e add e d to sa u c e s w i thout p r e v i ou s c ook ing
The fo rms wh ic h p ota toe s may b e mad e t o
ta k e are alm o s t l egi o n wh il e a t the sam e t im e
they are n ever nic e r th an whe n plainly b o il ed
Wi th c ol d c oo ked p otatoe s we may m a k e a v a ri ety
—
f
cas e s and b o rd ers th a t is if the p otatoe s h ave
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Cooking Vegetables
and
Dressing S alads
93
b ee n mas he d d ow n wh ils t war m a b etter way
s t il l is to r u b the m th roug h a wi re si eve and add
t o the p u r é e th u s o b t ain e d the othe r ingr e di e n t s
th at is a li ttl e b utter sal t and p epp er and p erh aps
an egg t o form a pas te W i th th is mix tu r e y o u
may for m balls o r ro s e s pipings fr ills b o rd e r s
c ru s ts s h ap e s o f all k inds and eve n m o c k pas tr y
To fry w i thout p r ev iou s b o iling i t is n e c e ssar y to
—
h
u s e a d eep pan w i t pl e n ty o f fat m el te d s uet is
—
f
the b e s t o r t h e p u r p o s e and after c utting the
p ota toe s as d e si r e d fi ll a frying bas ket w i th the m
and pl u ng e it in Kee p the m in c old wa ter h o w
eve r u ntil t h e who l e l o t are r eady the n dry ve ry
tho rough ly o n a cl oth The fat s houl d b e ve ry
hot and t h e potatoe s b e c o m e br ow n and c r isp
in a s ho r t t im e otherw is e they w ill b e tough and
s o dd e n D rain well spr in kl e wi th sal t and s erv e
a t o nc e A salad o f c old b o il ed p otatoes slic e d is
v er y d e lici ou s if nic e l y d r e ss e d w i th may o nnais e
and gar nis he d w i th c ho pp e d c re ss o r par sl ey
Ca uli fl owe r an f r ont age h as b ee n m e n ti o n e d in
her ew i th
o u r lis t o f dis he s s u i tabl e fo r e n tr e m et s
is the r ecip e B o il a large wh i te ca u li fl ower and
d rain bre a k car e fu lly in to par ts M a ke a small
qu an ti ty o f goo d wh i te sa u ce and s ti r in to i t two
o r th r ee sp oo n f u ls o f gr a te d P a r m e sa n and add a
pinc h o f cay e nn e p e pp er B u tter a fa ncy fi rep roo f
c h ina dis h p ut in t h e b r oke n ca uli fl owe r a pa rt
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Th e
Model Kitchen
o f the s au c e
m o r e ca uli fl owe r and m o r e sau c e
sp r in kl e w i th m o r e c hee s e and p l ac e the dis h in
the ove n to b r own t h es u r fac e
Fo r an gratin the sa u c e wou ld b e e xcl u d e d
b utte r b e ing u s e d a few b r e adcr u mbs and m o r e
c hee s e o r the c hee s e can b e l e ft o u t and gra v y
ta ke the plac e o f b utter the n b ake in the grat in
dis h and s erve
Leek s are very nic e s e rve d pl ainly b o il ed o r
wi th a c hee s e sa u c e and the y m ake m o s t exc ell e nt
s ou p
A u b ergin e s h ave als o b ee n m e n tio n ed A l
thoug h th is is n ot a veg etabl e c o mm o nly k n own
i t is s o d elic ate and d elici ou s t h a t i t d e s erve s m o r e
fam e
O f a p u r pl e c o l ou r out sid e i t is c r e amy
wh i te wi th in and a fte r pa r ing i t s hou ld b e spli t
do wn l e ngthw is e the s o ft in te ri or par t r e m oved
and the n ( in a fi r epr oof c h ina dis h o f c our s e) b e
simm er ed w i th b utter and whe n q u i te te nd er a
te aspo o n ful O f grav y o r cr e am add ed s o m e p epp er
and sal t and s e rve d in the dis h as i t is
C u c u mb ers ar e s t i ll an other vegetabl e too li ttl e
k n ow n exc e p t as a salad They b o i l exc eedi ngly
well ; they ma k e a d elici ou s cr eamy s o u p ; they
als o g ra te o r c ut in to c u b es fo r s e rv ing wi th fr i ed
fis h sm el t s and herr ings B o i l e d c u c u mb er s wi th
wh i te sau c e are a s u i t abl e acc o mp anim e n t t o e i the r
lamb o r v eal
94
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Th e
6
9
Model Kitchen
tr ue salad ma terial is o f co u rse l ettu c e o r
e ndi v e Lettu c e incl u d e qu i te a n u mb er o f
va i etie s o f growth fro m the te nd er p etite l itue o f
the gard e n er s wee ding o u t a t the t im e O f trans
“
plan ta tio n to the G an m ere l ettu c e s wh ic h
h ave s too d the win ter b avely and b egi n to fo m
hearts w i th th e fi r s t warm days o f spr ing The e
is eoguill e o r c o r n salad as A m er icans c all i t ;
the r e is blanc h e d dand eli o n and c h ic o y b oth
slig htly bi tter b ut spl e ndid fo r thei r whol e o m e
e ff ec t o n heal th water cr e ss and co s l ettu c e c isp
and s u cc ul e n t ; e ndive esc r ll e n ot to m e nt i o n
G e n eral To m Thu mb an d a who l e t rib e o f pl u mp
wh i te he ar t s
A nd the e a e he rbs t o give fl avour
fr o m the sp ring o ni o n n w a r ds
W he n yo u h ave g ot y ou r salad and i t s he b
w as he d and dr i e d i t you b egin the m o s t imp o
tan t par t o f the pr oc e s o f d e ssing by sh re dding
o r c utt ing i t s u ffi ci e n tl y small t o b e e asily e a te n
So m e p eo pl e s tand ag h as t a t the id e a o f c utt ing
sal ad w i th a s teel k ni fe b ut i t is O fte n far the b e t
th ing to d o fo r app ear anc e sake as well as c o m
fo r t and if qu ic kly and lig htly do n e the s tee l
k ni fe d oe s n o h a rm e i the to the salad o r to y o u
A Fr e nc h man wou ld ru b the insid e O f the b owl
w i th a cl ove O f garlic ; th i is p er h aps m or e th a n
an E ngl is h palate car e for b ut th e fl avou r o f an
o ni o n is invari ably an imp ro v e m e n t gi ve n in s o m e
th e
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Cooking Veget ables
and
Dressing Sal ads
97
the b wl gi v e s j u s t th a t soup ron
wh ic h is e l u si ve y et d e fini te
W h a t we k n ow as Fr e nc h d e ssing is o fte n
qu i te s u ffi ci e n t fo r all occasi o ns Y ou ma ke i t by
mixing fi r s t sal t p epp e mad e m u s tard and o n e
sp o n ful o f vin ega togethe ; the n add th r ee
sp o n fuls o f Oil and to ss the whol e freely D O
Of
no t sp o il a salad by adding too man y mix tu r e
mate ial o r o f fl avou s A h ar d b o il e d and slic e d
egg may b e an addi t i o n wo th h av i ng b u t i t is
n o t e ss e n t ial and b eet
s hou ld b e ke p t t o erv e
al o n e s o als o s hould s t ingy m u s tar d and c r ess
A may o nnais e d r e ssing O f b e ate n y o l k o f egg
o il sal t and p e pp er and j u s t a su fli ciency o f
in ega o l e m o n j u ic e is e as y to ma k e if ca e
b e ex e cis e d to add the O il b ut sl ow ly a t fi s t
Th is d e ssing k ee ps fo s o m e tim e Le m o n j u ic e
and cr eam can b e su bs ti tute d fo v i n egar and Oil
p e fe ed
fo rm
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POT AT SALA
O
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Th e
Model Kitc hen
AP P L I
.
C R I :\ M
EGG
S
,
SA L A D
AND
C
AND
H EES
.
E SA L A D.
C R E S SA L D
S
A
.
Th e
1 00
Model Kitchen
when they cam e wh a t was m ean t by b o il ing
wa te
or the di ff e e n t te m p e ra tu re s a t wh ic h i t
b o ils and wh a t c he mical c h ange s take plac e d ur ing
and after b o iling
W e b o il wa ter in the k i tc he n fo r two p u p o s e s
fo r the c ook ing o f wa te i ts e lf to r e m ove dan
er o u s g e r ms
o f othe
the
c
ook
ing
a
d
f
r
n
o
g
ma terials in i t The b o iling p oin t o f w a te r u nd e r
ordinary c o nd itio ns is 2 1 2 Fah r W he n b u bbl e s
fo rm o n the b otto m o f the k ettl e c o m e u p sl owly
to the s urfac e and u p tu r e qu i etly w i thout ma k ing
eb u lli ti o n we h ave simm e ing ; a t th is p o in t the
the m o m ete r s hou ld egi te 1 80 Fa h r I t is at
th is te mp eratu re th a t we c ook m eat and fis h and
ma k e o u ps W he n the b u bbl e s fo rm rapid l y o n
the sid e s and c o m e to the to p o f the wa te r and
the re is m ot i o n in the wa ter s till i t h as n ot eally
r e ac he d the b o i l i ng p o in t ;
i t is gi ving O ff th e
a tm sp heric gas e s wh ic h h ave b ee n abso r b e d
w i th in i t O nly whe n the the rm o m eter eac he s
2 12
d oe s wa ter r eally b o il and i t is the n in r apid
m oti o n c o n tin u ing to gi ve O ff a tm o sp heric gas e
wi th the s te am i t ma k e s
E xac tly whe n i t c eas e s
t
gi ve O fl the s e gas e s i t we re di ffi c u l t to say b ut
ge n e ally sp eak ing a fte wa te h as b o il e d apidly
f r ab out te n min ute s i t is f ee d fr o m al l gas and
r e nd e r e d tas tel e ss —qu i t e u nfi t fo r the ma k ing O f
te a o c off ee B o il e d wa ter is fl at too fl at fo
h er
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Good Coffee
an
d Tea
IOI
d rin k ing purp o s e s b u t water th at h as b ee n b o il e d
t o r e nd e r i t g e r m fr ee in d ou b t fu l l o cali t i e s may
b e re aer a te d by all ow ing i t to d ro p sl owl y th r ough
a fil te r fr o m o n e ve ss e l in to an othe r a t a c o nsid e r
ab l e dis tanc e apar t
the u pp er o n e m u c h ab ove
the l o wer o ne I n th i s way we m ay r egain s o m e
o f i t s o r iginal fl avou r
I n pa re n the sis I may say her e th a t in sp e ak ing
o f b o i l e d m e a t s and fis h
b o il e d eggs o r b o il e d
vegetable s n o n e O f the s e are r eally m e an t to b e
b o il e d a t
al thoug h pl u nge d in to wa te r a t
th a t temp e ra tu re they ar e a fte rw ards n ever all owe d
t o r is e b ey o nd 1 8o — b an y o n e wh o k n ow s wh a t
y
the p rincipl e s O f c ooke ry m e an They r equ i re a
l ittl e l o nger tim e to c oo k th an if ke p t a t the gal
l o ping p o in t b ut the c oo k wh o can b eli eve any
th i ng is r eally c ook ing whe n it is o nly Simm e r ing
w ill b e r eward ed by finding the fib re s m ad e te nd e
and the fl avou rs r etain ed
I h ave b efo re m e the aieta o f a Fre nc h C o rd o n
Bl eu as to the m ak ing o f c o ffee H e says the re
are th r ee e ss e n t i al s to b e a r in mi nd b e fo r e g oo d
—
c o ff ee can b e l ooke d fo r a goo d b ean a b ean
well ro as te d and i t s in fu si o n in the r ight mann er
Fi r s t as t o the b ean M o c h a h as a r ep uta ti o n
b ut it s ar o ma is p ec uliar ; i t n eeds the c u l tiv a te d
tas te to e nj oy i t p u re The b e s t is a mix tu r e
o n e th i r d
M artini que and
o f o n e th i r d M o c h a
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Th e
102
Kit chen
Model
th i rd San D o mingo The ro as ting is ve ry
imp o rtan t Y o u m ay h ave the m o s t elab o rate f
oas t ing m ac h in e s y et b e eq u ally well s e rve d wi th
an i ro n f y ing pan o f a k i nd th a t you mig h t u s e
fo r an m el et o nly i t m u s t b e r igidly k e p t f o the
c o ffee and fo r n o other p u p o s e B utte r the pan
ery sligh tly p ut in the b eans and plac e i t a t fi rs t
over ge n tl e hea t all owing the b eans a c h anc e to
hea t th oug h gradu all y and to co k th roug h a
I nc ea e the heat b y d eg ee s and
well as c o l ou r
s h a ke the pan well W he n they h ave ac qu i ed a
ic h b row n c o l ou r the b ea ns are s fli cie ntl y oas ted
A n y b u r n t o n e s m u s t b e pic k e d u t as they will
sp o il the fl av ou r It requ i e ab out th ree qu a te rs
oas t c o ffee p o p e rly Tu r n the
o f an hou r to
b eans fr o m the pan o n to a cl ea n li ne n cl oth and
l et the m b e c o m e qu ite c old b efore s hutting away
in a he m et ically s e al e d bo x o tin It is b e s t to
as t b ut a s u ffi ci e nc y fo r two o r th ree days at a
t im e as the ar o ma o qu ic kl y v anis he s
SO man y k i n ds o f in f u s e r s and mac h in e s fo r
c off ee mak ing h a e b ee n in ve n te d th a t to singl e
u t any pa r t ic u la r o n e is difli c u l t b ut the p incipl e
o f sl ow fil t ra t i o n is g e n e all y the sam e in all and
o u g et th is alm o s t as well in the o r dina r y bl o c k
y
t in caf tiere as in the m o s t elab o a te c o n tri vanc e ;
b ut the E xc elsi o r f wh ic h I gi ve an ill u s tra
t i o n is o n e o f the m o s t simpl e y et p e fe c t ma ke s
o ne
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Th e
1 04
Model Ki t ch en
goo d co fl e e ; in c o ld ve ss els wh ic h c h ill i t a t
the b eginni ng yo u cann ot ho p e to ac h i eve a goo d
res ult
Y o u cann ot ma k e c o ff ee l o ng in ad vanc e
th a t is o rdina ry c f e 2 l eau b ut c o ffee e ss e nc e yo u
m ay kee p fo r s eve r al days in s to pp e r e d b ottl e s
My Fr e nch a uthor i t y f o m who m I am quo t
ing say t h at i t is a g rea t mi ta k e to ta k e fo r
‘
c f e a n l it t h e sam e in fu si o n
o u h ave b r ewe d f o
y
“
d rin k ing noir
It is n ot a simpl e in fu si o n li k e
th is th a t y o u n eed fo r d r in ki ng an l ait It is
e ss e nc e o f c o ffee y o u m u s t t ake and mak e u p
y o u r di ff u si o n wi th b o iling mil k
Ther e is no
n ee d eve n t o r ehea t the c o ffee i ts el f at all ; the
b oil ing o f the mil k is s u ffi ci e n t N o w th is is
s u r el y a p o in t t o b ear in mind by the wou ld be
fam e d c o ff ee ma k e r f o r s he may g o o n b r ew ing
co ffee and wa te r and b o iling mil k to c h ang e i t s
c ol ou r and fl av ou r and fail all the tim e o f r ealising
a go o d r e s u l t The mil k he says m u s t b e v ery
good in qu ali ty no t wa ter ed d o wn and n eve r
b o il e d in any o the r p an th an o n e k e p t expr e s sl y
A nd as to the e ss e nc e th is is the man
fo r m il k
n e r O f i t s p r e pa ra t i o n : Y o u ma y ma ke i t wi t h
c o ld wa te r if y o u pre fer r a ther th a n b o iling and
the r es u l t will b e e q u all y as go od Ta k e abo ut
twice the o rdina ry q ua nt i ty O f fre sh ly gro u nd c o ff ee
and a qu ar ter O f i ts am ou n t o f c h ic ory ( c h icory is
an improvem e n t to c o ff ee e ss e nc e) and pass b ut
of
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Go od Coffee
an
d Tea
10 5
o n e o r t wo c u p ful s o f wa te r th r ough i t by ery
small qu an t i ti e s a t a t im e and fo r s everal t im e s
u n til all the goo dn e ss s ee ms to h ave b ee n ex
trac te d The n b ottl e and c or k well N n eed
as we h av e j u s t said t o r eheat the c offee b ut
all ow o ne te asp oo n fu l o f e ss e nc e t o eac h la ge
c u pful and fill u p wi th b iling mil k
The e a e pl e n ty f co fl ee e ss e nc e s to b e
P
b o u ght eady m ade The re are b ut d o n t b u y
t h em ma k e fo r you r s el f
The n as to te a The m er e p ou ring O f b o iling
wa ter o n the te a in the p o t d oe s n ot make tea as
we al l k n ow Tea m u s t in fu s e the r ight am ou n t
o f t im e and the n the in f u s e r m u s t b e wi th d a wn
fro m the p o t if the s e c o nd c u p is n ot to b e f
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ve n ts the ex trac t i o n O f tanni n : and wh il e te a i t el f
is a whol e s o m e s tim u lan t alm o s t indisp e nsabl e t
t in th is l i fe tannin is an e n e my Tea
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is O fte n bar e d o u t in a tr ic tly r egu la te d di et
wher e as i t is the tanni n th a t n eeds to b e wi th
d rawn ; the te a al o n e n ee d n ever b e fear e d
So m e te a p ot s h ave a c h ina in f u s e r fi tte d b e l ow
the l id w k ing o n a p incipl e to the sam e efl e t
as the M i k ad o d oe s b ut tho s e wh do n ot
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f th i s o r d e r s hou ld b u y a se pa
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fr m h ar m f u l ma tte r is gr e a ter s t ill
A heate d tea p o t wa te r a t the r ight p o in t O f
b o iling and a goo d bl e nd o f tea b rew ing j u s t the
ig ht n u mb e r o f min ute s and n o m or e the n k ee p
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1 08
Model
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gi rl n ot y et r is e n to the ran k o f maid can always
b e got u nl e ss you li ve in the bac kwoo ds wher e
dinn er part i e s are u n u s u al M an y re as o ns c o m
bin e to ma k e i t d e si rabl e th a t th is fr i e ndl y help er
s hould r e mai n inv isibl e b ut in v isibili ty is n o
h ind ranc e to e ffec t i v e help E ve n where y o u
h ave a s k ill ed maid and h i r e d w ai ter s y o u would
find i t n ee d ful to h ave the in visibl e help er as well
s o we ta k e h er as a for ego n e c o ncl u si o n
O b vi ou sly the fi r s t e ss e n t ial in c o nsid e r i ng a
m e n u fo r the di nn e r you are go ing t o s erv e y ou r
e lf is to ta ke car e th a t eve ry pa r t O f i t can b e
p r epa re d b efo r eh and s o th a t the r e m ay b e no
n ee d fo r you to reti r e t o the k i tc he n o r as k y ou r
gue s t s to wai t fo r the n ex t i tem A nd n ot o nly
m u s t i t b e po ssibl e t o pr e pare ever y th ing b ut y o u
m u s t r e d u c e as far as p o ssibl e t h e c h anging o f
pla te s the n u mb e r r equ i re d and the n u mb er O f
n ec e ssary acc o mpa ni m e n t s wh ic h c e r tai n dis he s
call fo r
W h a tever you aim a t ac h i ev ing fo rget n o t
th a t si m plici ty i e v e r the b e s t O f grac e s I n yo u r
o wn sp he r e s et a fas h i o n fo r s impl e r li v ing and
there b y b e a b e n efac tor D isplay in v ariabl y s h o ws
a wan t o f ed u ca ti o n s o m ewhe r e ev e n whe n i t is
an ar ti st ic display
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How t o serv e a Dinner wi thou t
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I 09
ic h wh e n m uc h plate o r silve r m u c h gl ass
s everal s ets O f k ni ve s and for k s el ab o ra te d ec o ra
ti o ns and fl o ral d ev ic e s n u m e rou s w in e s and a
v a r i ety O f v iands we r e an e ss e n t ial par t o f e n te r
t ai n m en t
The tab l e s o f the we al th y to day
sho w an al m o s t asc et ic s eve r i ty in c o mpa r is o n to
wh a t was s ee n u p o n the m a f ew y e ar s bac k and
if the y find a b ette r g rac e fr o m the c h ang e h o w
m uc h m o re grac efu l m u s t i t b e fo r the sm all e r
hou seho ld e spe ci ally th at small e s t hou s ehold O f
all the fl at O f m o d e s t dim e nsi o ns
It is a ve y m o d e s t tabl e we h ave in mind th is
ti m e ; in fac t i t is a rou nd tabl e s et fo r a par ty
o f six : the r e is so
m u c h s ociabili ty c o nn ec te d
wi th a rou nd t abl e
There is n o tabl e c e n tre
fo r the s e e xc r e sc e nc e s h av ing r e ac he d the i r utte r
m o s t li m i t o f c heap abs u rdi ty h ave qu i te go n e o u t
O f fas h i o n
B ut the re is a ve ry goo d damas k
cl oth o n the b o ard It may h ave b ee n a we dding
gi ft to the ho s te ss o r i t may no t b ut b eing a
goo d c ook and h ou s ekee p er s h e is als o o ne who
ta k e s pr id e in fin e lin e n and there is n o o ccasi o n
t o c ove r u p fin e gl o ssy damas k wi th m u c h d e c o ra
ti o n Ther e ar e a few singl e b loo ms c ho ic e and
d elica te s et in tall sl e nd er t ub e s o f v arying
he ight ; the s e ar e c h i efl y group e d togethe r n e ar
the c e n tre b ut no t su fli cientl y clo s e t o for m a
bl o c k So m e fea the ry gr ee n d ep e nds far e n ough
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Model Kitchen
the glasse s to mak e a li ttl e
trail her e and there in n o s et pa tte r n Two
d in k ing glass e s s tand a t e ac h plac e o n e fo r win e
o n e fo r w a ter
a large and small k ni fe large and
mall fo rk and o ne p oo n are plac e d the re al o
id e by id e no t ac o the to p as a fo etim e
A dain ty e rv i ette i m ply fo ld ed and dinn e
ll c o mpl ete the n ec e s a y fu rn ish ings in wh ic h
we incl u d e o ne o t w t iny c r uet s et s o
al t
c ellar s So m e li ttl e c h ina l e af dis he s o c ys tal
b o nb o n t ays may b e add ed if y o u th in k well
To nibbl e a t sal te d alm o nds o r e a t a sweatm eat i
o m etime s a u s e ful way o f filling a pa u e in the
—
c o n ve sa ti o n ; b ut d o n t h ave t o o m an y e i the
s weetm ea ts o r pa u s e s
The roo m w ill o f c ou rs e h ave in i t a id e
b oard O r Sid e tabl e o f o m e s o r t ; th is i t will b e
n ec e ssary to fu r nis h wi th a u pply O f ex t a k ni ve
fo k s and sp oo ns pla te s and glass e s w i th w a te
cara fe win e s s o da
min e ral w a te s and wh a t
e e els e you s ee m li k ely t o n eed O n th i als o
you will plac e the butte bisc u i ts and c hee e
fo the las t c ou r s e the c o ff ee c u ps the alad and
i ts mix e d d re ssing and f o m her e y o u will s e rve
the ou p fo r the fi s t c ou s e Rou nd the d oo r
ther e s hould b e a f u fo ld cr ee n s o t h a t y ou can
slip b e t wee n id e b oa d and d oo r to s et s o il e d pla t e s
n o t her tabl e plac ed ut id e the doo and
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Model Kitchen
b ought in It is b ette r t o c oll ec t fis h and m e a t
pla te s b y go ing rou nd the tabl e and ta k ing two at
a tim e P o ssibly s o m e ge n tl e man will feel su fli
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matter O f c ou rs e The who l e ar t O f passing th ing s
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—
tak e s ev er y th ing as a ma tter o f c our s e s elf fo r
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A nd no w fo r the m e n u fo r th i s o ccasi o n
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you can b u y so many exc ell e n t ma k e s in
v er
tu b e s o r in glass b ottl e s th a t i t is h a rdl y wo rth
wh il e ta k i ng the t r ou bl e o f ma k ing i t a t ho m e
I do no t howev e r adv o ca te tak ing ny t inn ed
s ou p s in pr e fere nc e t o the ho m e m ad e F oll ow
the di re c ti o ns and add a li ttl e m o r e wa ter t o the
tu b e o r b o ttl e y o u s el ec t as u s u all y the s e ar e ra ther
s tro ng e xtrac ts Y ou may t o gi ve b o dy and
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How t o serv e a Dinner withou t
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3
vari ety t o the sou p b o il s o m e Italian pas te o r
vermicelli and add i t to th e tu ree n b ut i t m u s t
b e b o k e n small e n oug h n ot to b e s t ringy
Al l o w th r ee o r f ou sm el t s fo e ac h p e r s o n
and afte r w iping dip the m in egg and b read
c ru mbs f ying in b o iling fat the n d ain and
keep h o t in c ov e e d dis h Ga ni h wi th l e m o n
and h ave plate s O f th in b ro wn b re ad and b utter
al eady o n the tabl e wi th a dis h O f c u c u m b e in
c ub e s and spoo n t o s e rve th is
R um p s te a k s hou ld b e s el ec te d fo the fill et s
and c ut in to pi ec e s O f e e n siz e n o t m o e th a n
t wo inc he s q u a re
R oll eac h in fl ou and b rown
qu ic kly all ov er in fat ; the n plac e in the cass e
r o l e wi th t wo O r th r ee ve r y small p ee l e d o ni o ns
s o m e m u s h roo m b u nc h O f sweet herb p e pp e
and al t su fli c ient cl ea r s to c k to j u t c ove r Let
i t c oo k ge n tl y fo an hou and a h al f o m e ;
the n re m ov e the he rbs and s ti r in a win eglass f l
p oo n fu l o f co nfl o p ev i ou l y
of
ed win e and
b ing u p t b o iling p o in t and l et i m m e
wette d
It i u nli k e ly t o ta k e an y h a m
n t il wa n te d
an hou o m o re B e f e dinn e the c ov e r
f
f the ca e r l e s h u ld b e e m ov e d and a g oo d
q n t i ty o f cooked p ta toe s new b y p e fe e nc e
and b own e d in b utte hould b e pil e d o n the
A e rv i ette is f ld e d n eatly o nd the di h
to p
b efo e i t i ca i e d o n t o the id eb o a d to b
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Th e
I 14
Model Kit chen
helped f o m the e o n to h o t pla te O f c ou s e if
fowl m ig ht b e c oo k e d the
d e si red a c h ic ke n
am e w y in plac e O f b ee f if it s ou nds b ette and
s ee ms b ette r b ut failing the m e ans t o p o c re
a c h ic k e n b eef is no t a bad u bs ti tute
Wh e n th is dis h is dispo s e d o f the h am aspic
j elly and l ettuc e salad a e b rought o n to the ide
b a d s traight f o m the c ool c ellar o r e f igera t r
the p e pared d re ssing i pou r e d v er the la tte
and to ss e d fo r a f w s ec o nd and the b owl is
pas e d ou nd the t abl e salad pla te s h av ing b ee n
dis t ibute d fi rs t
Afte r th is there i p ro babl y a c h ange O f win e
glas e s o an ic e d d in k can b e b roug ht in
The n all pla te are ca ri ed away and fancy o n e
ta k e t he i r plac e fo the gatea u—wh ic h by the
way was b oug ht r e ad y mad e a t a c o n fe c t i o n e s
b e ing the c he ap e s t and u re t proc ee ding and
there is a b right f u i t j ell y t o b e c o n id e e d A t
th i s tage the dinn e l o s e an y fo rm ali ty i t h a
h ad and tim e is ta k e n to e nj y d elicate ly the
p etty s weet and whe n th is is et r n e d t o the
id eb o a d the c hee s e an d b utte r are b ought bac k
al m o t u nn otic ed
W he n the tim e c o m e s fo pa ta k i ng o f c o ff ee
h we v er the ho s te s will qu i etl y exc u s e he s e l f
ig htly finis he d and
an d lip o u t to s ee th a t i t i
p u e d O ff in to a h t p t fo ther e a c e r tain
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Th e
I6
Model Kit chen
I n l oo king over the m e n u her e gi ve n it will
b e s ee n th at the e is n oth ing wh ic h c ou ld no t h ave
b ee n p re pa ed and c oo k e d in the m o r ning TO
h ave a j o in t o f m e a t and c ho ic e O f veg etabl e s
Ob vi ou sly e n tails m u c h m o r e lab ou r and necessi
ta te s go ing bac k and fo rth b etwee n k i tc he n and
di ning r o m as i t is fo rc e d t o g o n c oo k ing
u ntil al m o s t the las t m o m e n t M o eove i t is
m ore di ffi c u l t t ca v e a j o in t a t a sid eb o ard and
if i t is d o n e a t t abl e i t f e q ue n tly calls fo r m o r e
k ill th an an y o ne b ut the h o te s he s el f p o ss e ss e s
C h ic ke ns again if l e ft wh l e a e e q all y as
di ffi c u l t t o m anage and e nt ail man y th ing in
the w y O f acc o mpanim e n t W h a t i easily co m
pass e d in a p i va te way i q u i te the rwis e whe n
o u wan t t o ca ry o n a c o n v e sa t i o n and k ee p
y
c ool head e d wh ils t s e v ing a n u mb e
H e nc e
it will b e s ee n th a t th e s el ec t i o n O f s o m eth ing in
the na tu e O f a rago fi t o b rais e a s tew o c urry
is far m o e u i tabl e But ther e is c ho ic e e n oug h
and t o spa e in th i range o nly
P u ddings f u i t di he s and fancy s weets a e
always m o re acc e p tabl e s e rv e d c old a the th an
wa m a t the e nd O f a dinn e r f s e v e r al c ou r s e s
and th is again facili ta te s ma tte rs f the e n te r
O n e nic e dis h r athe th an tw in fer i o
t ainer
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A S A refrigerator 5
Am
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A b rgi ne s 94
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B ac h el o r s s t e w p
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B ee f i l m d 5
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C A A E S TR AIN E R 6
mm 4
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C oco ttes 6
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C om bi n t i on f food s the r ight
select io n an d 6 7 7 5
C om pact t o re loset the 7
C ook i n g i n an d si n g fi re proo f
chi na 57 —6 6
Cook i ng f eget bles an d dre ss i ng
f sal ad s 8 6 O
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Petit Pl at M i C r me 6
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