Styling the nation since 1945 The Beach The Beach is a technique which gives soft, gentle waves and textured hair without curl or structure. It’s ideal for women who have straight highlighted or blonde hair but desire either that ‘beach babe’ curl or even want a style foundation to allow them to roller set or achieve curls from straightening irons and tongs without the fear of dropping. The Beach wind should always be conducted using Pin Up Pre Perm spray (to dampen each section) and Body and Relax rods to wind. You will need around a dozen to twenty Body and Relax rods to achieve the overall effect. This particular perm also uses a technique called ‘Air Drying’ whereby the hair is neutralised and then the perm is allowed to dry (100%) before removing the rods. This method is kinder to colour treated or fine hair and gives additional longevity to the perm. To achieve the ‘Dita’ look you will need the following from www.pinup-perm.com:1 x Pin Up Clarifying Shampoo 250ml 1 x Pin up Full Head 6 x Packs of Pin Up Perm Rods Large (Body & Relax x 4) 1 x Pin Up Pre Perm Spray 150ml 1 x Pack of Sectioning Clips (6 clips required) 1 x Tail Comb 1 x Plastic Bowl You will also need:Cotton Wool, Rubber Bands, Kitchen Towel, Sea Salt Spray,Volume Mousse and Hairspray Instructions Step One – Sectioning the Hair After clarifying, comb the hair fully and divide into sections, two sections at each side of the head, one section on the top of the head and two sections at the back (one from the nape to the centre and another the centre to the crown). Because The Beach is intended for longer hair, sectioning is crucial to ensure you can work cleanly with the hair. Step Two – Winding the Hair 2.1 Start at the nape (back) area Starting at the nape section, remove the clip and comb the hair smooth. Spray the section with Pin Up Pre Perm Treatment and comb through. Take sections 2 inch by 1 inch Ensure you comb out a section of hair at the nape (behind the ear) which is around two inches in length and one inch in width. Although you can take larger sections with ‘The Beach’ wind (as opposed to other winds) you must remember to still wind the hair with tension, otherwise the perm will not take effectively. With your first 2 inch by 1 inch section, comb it very smooth (apply Pin Up Pre Perm Spray and comb again) then apply a perm paper over the ends. Hold the section outward from your head to ensure it’s been combed smooth and the end paper is suitably wrapped. Now take a Body and Relax Rod and begin winding the ends of the hair firmly around the end section of the rod. Keep winding the hair firmly (with tension) upward along the rod just as you would if you were creating spiral curls with a curling tong. Once the hair is wound fully, fasten the rubber band. The Body and Relax Rod should be hanging in a vertical direction, downward. www.pinup-perm.com Styling the nation since 1945 1.2 Completing the back section Take another 2 inch by 1 inch section at the nape, immediately next to the rod you have just wound and repeat the above process. You should now have two rods, hanging vertical at the nape section. Proceed to winding the entire nape in this direction. For the nape area you should be using around 2 to 3 rods. Once you have completed the nape section, remove the sectioning clip from the next back section (going from the middle of the head to the crown). Repeat this winding technique on this section also. Continue until the entire back section of your hair is wound in rods which are hanging downward like tubes. If you required that additional height at the crown, you should have three rods wound directly down to the roots and sitting across the crown area as outlined in ‘The Cheryl’ wind. 1.3 You Parting Once the back sections are totally wound, you can continue with the wind on the sides and back sections of the hair. However, during this period of the wind you must firstly decide where you parting will be. In general The Beach wind is achieved with a centre parting. However, you can also apply the technique using a natural side parting. When parting on the centre, split the hair evenly and section both sides twice – creating one under section and a top section on each side of the head and clipping all sections securely. You should have four sections (one above the other) on each side of the parting. Once sectioned, begin winding the hair as outlined above, starting on the underside sections and working upward to the top. If you have sectioned the hair with a centre parting you need to make sure you wind the rods up to the parting in the same ‘tube’ formation. If you choose a side parting, remove the sectioning clips in the top and side sections and find your parting as desired, comb smooth and re-section hair (with clips). Begin your next wind on the under section of the side of the parting with the most hair. Do this by breaking the section in two, re-affixing the clip to the top section and starting the wind with the underneath area. Follow the same principles as outlined for the nape. Once you have wound the underside section, move across to the other side of the parting (not the clipped up top section) and repeat again. Lastly, once both sides of the head are wound – repeat the winding technique on the top section of the head. Ensure you wind in sections stemming from your parting. Step Three – Applying the Waving Lotion With the Beach wind always apply the Waving Lotion in Post Dampening and wind only with Pin Up Pre Perm Treatment. Prior to applying the Waving Lotion it’s a good idea to place a roll of Cotton wool along your hairline (front and back) securing underneath the Body and Relax Rods you have just wound. This prevents drips from the Waving Lotion running onto the face. To apply the Waving Lotion, pour the contents of the bottle into a plastic bowl and gently saturate the sponge. Ensure any surplus (from the sponge) drips into the bowl, before carefully ‘dabbing’ along each rod to coat in Waving Lotion. The cleanest method is to wrap a towel around your shoulders and start at the crown section and work your way down to the nape. This way the lotion will drip downward onto the rods sitting directly underneath. Once you have applied lotion to the back section rods, move onto the side sections and starting at the top of these sections dab the Waving Lotion from the top of the side section, down to the bottom – on all rods on both sides of the head. Lastly, apply the Waving Lotion to the top section, make sure you are tilting your head back and start at the crown section and move forward, finishing at the first rod on the hairline. Always ensure your head is tilted back when applying Waving Lotion to the top section as this will prevent drips running onto your face. Once you have applied the Waving Lotion to all rods, and can see no more drips are running from the rods, you can remove the cotton wool. With ‘The Beach’ you do not wrap the hair in cling film as you need a slower controlled processing time. Instead, process by leaving the hair for 5 minutes (following conclusion of application of the Waving Lotion) and conduct a Test Curl every five minutes thereafter. Refer to the Test Curl section in the Perm Guide. If you have very highlighted hair your perm could develop within 10 minutes, whilst those with more resistant hair (and no colour or previous chemical treatment) could need up to forty minutes to achieve the curl result. The key is to continue test curling every five minutes. The Beach (with the use of the Pin Up Pre Perm Treatment and air processing) works on a more controlled and slower processing speed than other perm techniques. www.pinup-perm.com Styling the nation since 1945 Step Four – Rinsing Step Six – Neutralising Once you have achieved your desired test curl, blot all the rods carefully with kitchen paper. Blotting the rods prior to rinsing ensures any excess Waving Lotion is thoroughly removed from the surface of the hair. Begin rinsing the hair with warm (not hot) water and ensure each rod is subjected to a good water flow and ‘patted’ to shake out any Waving Lotion which may be inside the hair. Rinsing of the Beach perm should take around five minutes as its important all Waving Lotion is thoroughly removed from the hair. Only use warm water to rinse the Waving Lotion from the hair as hot water can cause the perm to continue processing even after the water has begun flushing the hair. Again, thoroughly wash and clean your bowl and sponge. Pour 50% of the neutraliser provided into the bowl and using the sponge lightly foam. Take the sponge and begin ‘dabbing’ the rods with the neutraliser. Ensure each rod is covered. The cleanest way to work is by starting at the nape and working up the head to the crown, then apply to all rods on the side sections before concluding at the top and front. Once all sections have been ‘dabbed’ with the sponge and saturated in neutraliser leave the hair to develop for 5 minutes. Step Five – Resting the Hair After you have thoroughly rinsed the rods for five minutes, carefully wrap your head in a towel and pat all excess moisture from the rods. Once you have ‘patted’ the rods dry of excess moisture, go over all the rods and spray an amount of Pin Up Pre Perm Treatment onto each and gently ‘pat’ into the hair. At this stage the hair cuticle is open and applying Pin Up Pre Perm treatment to each rod will give further hydration. If you hair is highlighted, you can even thoroughly clean your plastic bowl and sponge and then pour a little Pin Up Pre Perm Treatment directly into the bowl. Using the sponge, you can then apply the Pin Up Pre Perm treatment directly to each rod (as you did with the Waving Lotion). This will ensure each rod is thoroughly treated with the Pre Perm treatment and has optimum chance for hydration. Do ensure you have thoroughly washed your sponge (after using the Waving Lotion) before you do this, otherwise you could add further Waving Lotion to the hair which could cause damage. Once you have applied the Pin Up Pre Perm Treatment to the rods wrap the hair in a clean towel and leave to rest for around 45 minutes to 1 hour. During this period the hair will begin to normalise. After letting the hair rest for around 45 minutes to 1 hour you can proceed to Neutralising After 5 minutes, pour the rest of the neutraliser into the bowl and repeat the above steps, once again covering each rod in neutraliser solution and foam. Once all rods have again been saturated wait a further 5 minutes and then proceed to final rinsing. Step Seven – Final Rinsing Final Rinsing is different with The Beach to other perm winds. With The Beach wind you rinse the neutraliser out with the perm rods still in place. Carefully rinse the hair for around three minutes to ensure all traces of the neutraliser are removed. Use warm water and ‘pat’ each rod to ensure any neutraliser is flushed from the hair. Once you have rinsed the rods fully for 3 minutes, conclude rinsing and wrap the hair in a towel. Step Eight – Air Drying with Rods still in The Beach uses a technique called ‘Air Drying’ where (after neutralising) the hair is allowed to dry 100% before removing the rods. Air Drying works well for softer perms as it ensures longevity of the perm, without the necessity to use stronger Waving Lotions or smaller rods. With the Beach (and after rinsing the Neutraliser) pat the rods with a clean fresh towel and spray each (again) with some Pin Up Pre Perm Treatment. Now leave the hair to Air Dry for several hours (with the rods still in). After a perm had been conducted, the hair holds onto water so it may take twice as long for your hair to dry naturally as it would usually. The hair could even be air dried overnight if you could stand sleeping in the rods; however this is not a necessity. www.pinup-perm.com Styling the nation since 1945 Removing Rods After several hours of Air Drying and when the hair is 100% dry, you can remove the rods. You should notice a strong curl formation in the hair. This is not reflective of the permanent ‘beach’ effect which has been produced in your hair; however the curls produced by Air Drying will allow you to leave your hair several days without washing or getting it wet. During this time the air will continue to create the permanent result. When you wash (after 72 hours), you should find you have a soft beach wave in the hair which looks absolutely natural and can be washed and left to dry naturally. Applying some ‘Sea Salt Spray’ to the hair after every wash and letting the hair dry naturally will produce a tousled ‘beach wave’ texture. Remember The key to achieving a great result with ‘The Beach’ is regular test curls during processing. You can only determine if your perm has taken by checking for the curl in the hair at regular intervals after the Waving Lotion has been applied. Ensure you understand how to conduct a test curl before commencing with this perm technique by reading ‘The Perm Guide’ thoroughly. www.pinup-perm.com
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