Instructions - pinup-perm

Styling the nation since 1945
The Beach
The Beach is a technique which gives soft, gentle
waves and textured hair without curl or structure.
It’s ideal for women who have straight highlighted
or blonde hair but desire either that ‘beach babe’ curl
or even want a style foundation to allow them to roller
set or achieve curls from straightening irons and
tongs without the fear of dropping.
The Beach wind should always be conducted using Pin
Up Pre Perm spray (to dampen each section) and Body
and Relax rods to wind. You will need around a dozen
to twenty Body and Relax rods to achieve the overall
effect. This particular perm also uses a technique called
‘Air Drying’ whereby the hair is neutralised and then the
perm is allowed to dry (100%) before removing the rods.
This method is kinder to colour treated or fine hair and
gives additional longevity to the perm.
To achieve the ‘Dita’ look you will need the following
from www.pinup-perm.com:1 x Pin Up Clarifying Shampoo 250ml
1 x Pin up Full Head
6 x Packs of Pin Up Perm Rods Large (Body & Relax x 4)
1 x Pin Up Pre Perm Spray 150ml
1 x Pack of Sectioning Clips (6 clips required)
1 x Tail Comb
1 x Plastic Bowl
You will also need:Cotton Wool, Rubber Bands, Kitchen Towel, Sea Salt
Spray,Volume Mousse and Hairspray
Instructions
Step One – Sectioning the Hair
After clarifying, comb the hair fully and divide into
sections, two sections at each side of the head, one
section on the top of the head and two sections at the
back (one from the nape to the centre and another
the centre to the crown). Because The Beach is
intended for longer hair, sectioning is crucial to
ensure you can work cleanly with the hair.
Step Two – Winding the Hair
2.1 Start at the nape (back) area
Starting at the nape section, remove the clip and
comb the hair smooth. Spray the section with Pin
Up Pre Perm Treatment and comb through.
Take sections 2 inch by 1 inch
Ensure you comb out a section of hair at the nape
(behind the ear) which is around two inches in length
and one inch in width. Although you can take larger
sections with ‘The Beach’ wind (as opposed to other
winds) you must remember to still wind the hair with
tension, otherwise the perm will not take effectively.
With your first 2 inch by 1 inch section, comb it very
smooth (apply Pin Up Pre Perm Spray and comb
again) then apply a perm paper over the ends. Hold
the section outward from your head to ensure it’s been
combed smooth and the end paper is suitably wrapped.
Now take a Body and Relax Rod and begin winding the
ends of the hair firmly around the end section of the rod.
Keep winding the hair firmly (with tension) upward along
the rod just as you would if you were creating spiral curls
with a curling tong. Once the hair is wound fully, fasten
the rubber band. The Body and Relax Rod should be
hanging in a vertical direction, downward.
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Styling the nation since 1945
1.2 Completing the back section
Take another 2 inch by 1 inch section at the nape,
immediately next to the rod you have just wound and
repeat the above process. You should now have two
rods, hanging vertical at the nape section. Proceed
to winding the entire nape in this direction. For the
nape area you should be using around 2 to 3 rods.
Once you have completed the nape section, remove
the sectioning clip from the next back section (going
from the middle of the head to the crown). Repeat this
winding technique on this section also.
Continue until the entire back section of your hair is
wound in rods which are hanging downward like tubes.
If you required that additional height at the crown,
you should have three rods wound directly down to
the roots and sitting across the crown area as
outlined in ‘The Cheryl’ wind.
1.3 You Parting
Once the back sections are totally wound, you can
continue with the wind on the sides and back sections
of the hair. However, during this period of the wind you
must firstly decide where you parting will be. In general
The Beach wind is achieved with a centre parting.
However, you can also apply the technique using
a natural side parting.
When parting on the centre, split the hair evenly and
section both sides twice – creating one under section
and a top section on each side of the head and clipping
all sections securely. You should have four sections
(one above the other) on each side of the parting.
Once sectioned, begin winding the hair as outlined
above, starting on the underside sections and working
upward to the top. If you have sectioned the hair with
a centre parting you need to make sure you wind the
rods up to the parting in the same ‘tube’ formation.
If you choose a side parting, remove the sectioning clips
in the top and side sections and find your parting as
desired, comb smooth and re-section hair (with clips).
Begin your next wind on the under section of the side
of the parting with the most hair. Do this by breaking
the section in two, re-affixing the clip to the top section
and starting the wind with the underneath area. Follow
the same principles as outlined for the nape. Once you
have wound the underside section, move across to the
other side of the parting (not the clipped up top section)
and repeat again.
Lastly, once both sides of the head are wound – repeat
the winding technique on the top section of the head.
Ensure you wind in sections stemming from your parting.
Step Three – Applying the Waving Lotion
With the Beach wind always apply the Waving Lotion in
Post Dampening and wind only with Pin Up Pre Perm
Treatment. Prior to applying the Waving Lotion it’s
a good idea to place a roll of Cotton wool along your
hairline (front and back) securing underneath the Body
and Relax Rods you have just wound. This prevents
drips from the Waving Lotion running onto the face.
To apply the Waving Lotion, pour the contents of the
bottle into a plastic bowl and gently saturate the sponge.
Ensure any surplus (from the sponge) drips into the
bowl, before carefully ‘dabbing’ along each rod to coat
in Waving Lotion.
The cleanest method is to wrap a towel around your
shoulders and start at the crown section and work your
way down to the nape. This way the lotion will drip
downward onto the rods sitting directly underneath.
Once you have applied lotion to the back section rods,
move onto the side sections and starting at the top of
these sections dab the Waving Lotion from the top of
the side section, down to the bottom – on all rods on
both sides of the head. Lastly, apply the Waving Lotion
to the top section, make sure you are tilting your head
back and start at the crown section and move forward,
finishing at the first rod on the hairline. Always ensure
your head is tilted back when applying Waving Lotion
to the top section as this will prevent drips running onto
your face.
Once you have applied the Waving Lotion to all rods,
and can see no more drips are running from the rods,
you can remove the cotton wool. With ‘The Beach’
you do not wrap the hair in cling film as you need a
slower controlled processing time. Instead, process by
leaving the hair for 5 minutes (following conclusion of
application of the Waving Lotion) and conduct a Test
Curl every five minutes thereafter. Refer to the Test Curl
section in the Perm Guide. If you have very highlighted
hair your perm could develop within 10 minutes, whilst
those with more resistant hair (and no colour or previous
chemical treatment) could need up to forty minutes
to achieve the curl result. The key is to continue test
curling every five minutes. The Beach (with the use of
the Pin Up Pre Perm Treatment and air processing)
works on a more controlled and slower processing
speed than other perm techniques.
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Styling the nation since 1945
Step Four – Rinsing
Step Six – Neutralising
Once you have achieved your desired test curl, blot all
the rods carefully with kitchen paper. Blotting the rods
prior to rinsing ensures any excess Waving Lotion is
thoroughly removed from the surface of the hair. Begin
rinsing the hair with warm (not hot) water and ensure
each rod is subjected to a good water flow and ‘patted’
to shake out any Waving Lotion which may be inside
the hair. Rinsing of the Beach perm should take around
five minutes as its important all Waving Lotion is
thoroughly removed from the hair. Only use warm
water to rinse the Waving Lotion from the hair as hot
water can cause the perm to continue processing
even after the water has begun flushing the hair.
Again, thoroughly wash and clean your bowl and
sponge. Pour 50% of the neutraliser provided into
the bowl and using the sponge lightly foam. Take the
sponge and begin ‘dabbing’ the rods with the neutraliser.
Ensure each rod is covered. The cleanest way to work
is by starting at the nape and working up the head to
the crown, then apply to all rods on the side sections
before concluding at the top and front. Once all sections
have been ‘dabbed’ with the sponge and saturated in
neutraliser leave the hair to develop for 5 minutes.
Step Five – Resting the Hair
After you have thoroughly rinsed the rods for five
minutes, carefully wrap your head in a towel and pat all
excess moisture from the rods. Once you have ‘patted’
the rods dry of excess moisture, go over all the rods
and spray an amount of Pin Up Pre Perm Treatment
onto each and gently ‘pat’ into the hair. At this stage
the hair cuticle is open and applying Pin Up Pre Perm
treatment to each rod will give further hydration. If
you hair is highlighted, you can even thoroughly clean
your plastic bowl and sponge and then pour a little Pin
Up Pre Perm Treatment directly into the bowl. Using
the sponge, you can then apply the Pin Up Pre Perm
treatment directly to each rod (as you did with the
Waving Lotion). This will ensure each rod is thoroughly
treated with the Pre Perm treatment and has optimum
chance for hydration. Do ensure you have thoroughly
washed your sponge (after using the Waving Lotion)
before you do this, otherwise you could add further
Waving Lotion to the hair which could cause damage.
Once you have applied the Pin Up Pre Perm Treatment
to the rods wrap the hair in a clean towel and leave to
rest for around 45 minutes to 1 hour. During this period
the hair will begin to normalise. After letting the hair rest
for around 45 minutes to 1 hour you can proceed to
Neutralising
After 5 minutes, pour the rest of the neutraliser into the
bowl and repeat the above steps, once again covering
each rod in neutraliser solution and foam. Once all rods
have again been saturated wait a further 5 minutes and
then proceed to final rinsing.
Step Seven – Final Rinsing
Final Rinsing is different with The Beach to other perm
winds. With The Beach wind you rinse the neutraliser
out with the perm rods still in place. Carefully rinse the
hair for around three minutes to ensure all traces of
the neutraliser are removed. Use warm water and ‘pat’
each rod to ensure any neutraliser is flushed from the
hair. Once you have rinsed the rods fully for 3 minutes,
conclude rinsing and wrap the hair in a towel.
Step Eight – Air Drying with Rods still in
The Beach uses a technique called ‘Air Drying’ where
(after neutralising) the hair is allowed to dry 100%
before removing the rods. Air Drying works well for
softer perms as it ensures longevity of the perm,
without the necessity to use stronger Waving Lotions
or smaller rods.
With the Beach (and after rinsing the Neutraliser)
pat the rods with a clean fresh towel and spray each
(again) with some Pin Up Pre Perm Treatment. Now
leave the hair to Air Dry for several hours (with the
rods still in). After a perm had been conducted, the hair
holds onto water so it may take twice as long for your
hair to dry naturally as it would usually. The hair could
even be air dried overnight if you could stand sleeping
in the rods; however this is not a necessity.
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Styling the nation since 1945
Removing Rods
After several hours of Air Drying and when the hair is
100% dry, you can remove the rods. You should notice
a strong curl formation in the hair. This is not reflective
of the permanent ‘beach’ effect which has been
produced in your hair; however the curls produced by
Air Drying will allow you to leave your hair several days
without washing or getting it wet. During this time the air
will continue to create the permanent result. When you
wash (after 72 hours), you should find you have a soft
beach wave in the hair which looks absolutely natural
and can be washed and left to dry naturally. Applying
some ‘Sea Salt Spray’ to the hair after every wash
and letting the hair dry naturally will produce a tousled
‘beach wave’ texture.
Remember
The key to achieving a great result with ‘The Beach’
is regular test curls during processing. You can only
determine if your perm has taken by checking for the
curl in the hair at regular intervals after the Waving
Lotion has been applied. Ensure you understand how
to conduct a test curl before commencing with this perm
technique by reading ‘The Perm Guide’ thoroughly.
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