Concern in the Market place regarding the authenticity of
“Egyptian Cotton” label claims
Recent action by the retailer Target to sever ties with Welspun,
one of the largest manufacturer of home goods for supplying
inferior products is prompting others retailers to evaluate their
supply chain and goods. At a consumer level the term
“EGYPTIAN COTTON” implies superior quality and luxury. The
higher “average staple length” of Egyptian cotton contributes
greatly to the quality of the end product. Generally, an average
staple length of 1 1/8” or lower would be considered short staple,
1/1/8” – 1/1/4 “as long staple and 1 3/8” – 2” (and above) as
extra-long staple. The limited availability of Egyptian cotton and
the additional processing drives the overall cost of product
Although the average fiber length difference is small between the varieties of cotton, it makes an enormous
difference in the quality of goods produced from them. Longer staple fibers can be spun to higher counts of
yarn that are more uniform and result in a superior end product. In spite of the thread count being strongly
associated with quality in the market place, it would be fair to say that staple length has a stronger influence
on quality and performance.
Average staple length is determined at the fiber stage and there is no established methodology to
determine the same from an end product. Adaptation of ASTM D 5103, a method to determine the length
and length distribution of manufactured staple fibers (single fiber test) can be of value. But the results have
to be viewed in perspective since processing of cotton may lead to a lower “average staple length” when
determined at the final product stage. There are no other physical or microscopical features that
differentiate long staple cotton from others. DNA typing of cotton may be a viable alternative to
authenticate the fiber from the end product. This type of testing is not influenced by the various
manufacturing processes.
How Bureau Veritas Can Help
Bureau Veritas can provide a complete assessment of purchasing, material, and manufacturing controls at
the facility finishing the products containing Egyptian cotton. This will serve to verify that the material
identified as Egyptian cotton, confirmed through documentation, is properly identified and segregated
throughout all production processes up to shipment to the customer. If the facility is not fully vertical,
additional audits of upstream facilities may be required.
Bureau Veritas can determine the fiber length from the end product to get an estimate of the average fiber
length of the raw material. A precise determination of the “Average Staple Length” can be done if the raw
cotton or a carding sliver can be procured. We can also outsource the DNA testing if requested.
For More Information
For more information or if you have additional questions, please contact your local customer service
representative or email to: [email protected]
Bureau Veritas Consumer Products Services, Inc. (“BVCPS”) provides the information in this client bulletin as a resource of general
information. It does not replace any applicable legal or regulatory requirements and is provided “as is.” BVCPS will not be liable for any
indirect, special, punitive, consequential or other damages (including without limitation lost profits) of any kind in connection with this
client bulletin. BVCPS DISCLAIMS ALL REPRESENTATIONS AND WARRANTIES, EXPRESS OR IMPLIED, INCLUDING WITHOUT
LIMITATION WARRANTIES OF MERCHANTABILITY AND FITNESS FOR A PARTICULAR PURPOSE, IN CONNECTION WITH THIS
CLIENT BULLETIN.
Copyright © 2016 Bureau Veritas Consumer Products Services, Inc. All Rights Reserved.
August 2016, 016B-024