Merkinch Welfare Hall FIT FOR THE FUTURE Monika Maleszka-Ritchie Matt Ritchie Merkinch Welfare Hall FIT FOR THE FUTURE Monika Maleszka-Ritchie Matt Ritchie “It was a place to meet, that’s what it was all about” George Cameron (extract from the Oral History Archive) Photo: Tsara Cole Introduction The Merkinch Welfare Hall has been at the heart of the local community for over one hundred years. But although the historic building has its roots in the local community, it is a building that contributes to our national heritage too. It is a rare example of a purpose- built temperance hall, built for the The ‘Fit for the Future’ project took its inspiration from the past, as throughout its working life the Merkinch Welfare Hall has been a focal point for social events and sporting activities within the community. The 2016 restoration has delivered a gym and changing rooms on the ground floor for the Catch-my-Pal Union in 1914. The original Inverness City Boxing Club and offices for the my-Pal Union were ordinary working men addition, school and community projects have trustees of the Merkinch Branch of the Catchfrom the area. They aimed to encourage young men to abstain from drinking by providing social activities and support, all housed in a building that provided the welcoming atmosphere of the bar (but without the bottle). Merkinch Partnership on the first floor. In charted the course of the restoration project, with creative artwork, oral and archival historical research and documentary photography. The project has brought a significant building back into productive use, once again making a positive contribution to the local community. “My Great Granda remembers when it was used as a meeting hall for working men where they held concerts and played games and no drink was allowed” Morgan Brodie-Maclean (aged 10, Merkinch Primary School) The Origins of the Merkinch Welfare Hall Over the course of the nineteenth century, Scotland was torn between the success of Victorian technological development and engineering, and the social problems wrought by industrialisation and poor quality social housing. Drunkenness was increasingly seen as a serious social problem to be tackled by both legislation and the influence of temperance movements. The Scottish Temperance League was set up in 1844 and pressure for the introduction of legislation to curb the problems of excessive drinking led to the Forbes-Mackenzie Act of 1853 in which Sunday closing was enforced and a weekday closing time of 11pm imposed. Various other temperance movements were founded, holding rallies and meetings at which pledges of abstinence from alcohol would be made and temperance halls and public water fountains were built in order to provide alternatives to the functions of public bars. By the end of the nineteenth century, temperance halls had sprung up in every major city and town in Scotland. There were several operating in Inverness around the turn of the twentieth century. Given the number of organisations dedicated to the cause of temperance, it may seem surprising that another major temperance movement should emerge in the years leading up to the outbreak of the First World War, spreading like wildfire through the towns and cities of Great Britain. Photo: Johanne Kemp “We believe that there should be counterattractions to the saloon in almost every street in our towns, and we have opened many in Ireland. Men do not love the drink so much as they love the fellowship they get in drinking with their friends. If the Christian community would provide up-to-date Temperance saloons, more comfortable in every way than the licensed saloons, these would be patronised in a way that would surprise the most hopeful of us. Men and women say they go to the saloons because they have no other places to go to. If other places were provided in such a way as to attract, instead of repel, as is often the case, people would be ashamed to be seen going into the drinkshops. If they passed a temperance saloon to go into a saloon, it would be known it was for alcohol they did so, and the sense of shame would assert itself. Public opinion would then have a method of making itself felt. And, after all, it is public opinion that does the work.” An extract from The Happy Art of Catching Men: A Story of Good Samaritanship, by the Rev. RJ Patterson, the founder of the Catch-my-Pal movement (1914) “Comfortable and commodious halls and clubroom have been opened in the Merkinch district The Catch-my-Pal Union was founded in 1909 for the local branch of the Catch-my-Pal.” by the Rev Robert J Patterson, an Armagh An extract from the Aberdeen Evening minister of the Irish Presbyterian Church. Express (23rd December 1914) Patterson sets out the objectives and origins of the Catch-my-Pal Union in his book The Happy Art of Catching Men: A Story of Good Samaritanship, published in New York in 1914. Patterson’s approach was to conduct mass meetings at which those subscribing to the cause were asked to take a pledge for total abstinence. In the first year in Ireland 140,000 men and women joined the Union, and within two years there were no less than 500 finance their new building (built on the site of a previous hall), the trustees of the Merkinch Branch of the Catch-my-Pal Union took out a bond of £400 with the Inverness Investment and Permanent Building Society in the autumn of 1914. Other funding for the erection of the hall – and for fitting it out – is believed to have branches. Three branches of the Catch-my-Pal been raised locally. Mrs Robert Cook, mother Street, Academy Street and Grant Street in ceremony. Union were founded in Inverness, on Celt Merkinch. The trustees of the Merkinch Branch of the Union were all likely to be local men: James of Joseph Cook, performed the opening However, after the First World War, with so few servicemen returning home, the Catch- my-Pal Union lost its initial spark and brio, and Walker (of Walker's Sawmill) and Joseph Cook the Merkinch Branch soon became moribund. Macgruther was a coal merchant; William the leadership of the prominent Inverness (his cousin), both timber merchants; John Elliot a flesher; Norman Smith a stevedore and James Sinclair a signal fitter. In order to The Academy Street Branch continued under baker, William Anderson, and was host to talks and concerts. It was also the base of one of During the interwar years the hall was in constant use, with meetings and social events such as parties and wedding receptions arranged to take place there during each night of the week. The Girl Guides, the Merkinch Women’s Guild and the Post Office the more successful football teams in the amateur North Caledonian Football League. The ‘Catch-My-Pal’ team were league champions in the season 1924-5. They must have been a talented side as theirs is the only Inverness team known to have played in the Scottish Junior Cup in the 1920s (reaching the second round in 1924 where they played Forthill Athletic). However, the Merkinch Welfare Hall was still the property of the Union and in the 1918-1919 Valuation Roll the Recreational Club were all prominent users, with the Post Office using upstairs for a table tennis club. The Hall was also put to good use in other ways. Mrs Davidson was a Merkinch midwife who delivered over 300 babies. She started a welfare project based in the Merkinch Welfare Hall in the 1920’s. This involved showing mothers how to wash their babies properly and make sure that they were fed correctly. She would weigh them and keep charts of their progress. She would also tell them to check if their children had head property is listed, as a ‘Hall, Store, and Baths’, lice and what to do about it. desperate short term need for the local During the Second World War the building suggesting that it could have fulfilled a community or, more probably, functioned as a result of requisitioning during the war. In 1923/24, the responsibility for running the Hall fell to the Merkinch Ward Welfare Association, a local organisation established in 1921. was requisitioned by the Royal Air Force, under which it operated as a dental surgery for all of the troops in the area. In the post-war years it was used frequently for dances, concerts and talent contests. Photo: Johanne Kemp Lost and found During the removal of the floor boards in the ground floor of the Hall, the workmen of McGregor Construction Ltd found a time capsule of their own: a handbag (empty) and a few bottles of beer (long past their sell-by-date). The carry-out was lost in the 1940s and included two bottles of J&J Morison’s Indian Pale Ale (an Edinburgh brewer), two bottles of Murray's Pale Ale (from Craigmillar in Edinburgh) and an unlabelled beer from Whitbreads of London. “The work of the Catch-my-Pal movement [has seen] countless redeemed lives in places so far apart as Inverness and Sydney, Stratford-on-Avon and Toronto, Armagh and Kingston (Jamaica), Arnheim in Holland and Portland (Oregon).” An extract from The Happy Art of Catching Men: A Story of Good Samaritanship, by the Rev. RJ Patterson, the founder of the Catch-my-Pal movement (1914). Photo: Rachel Forrest The Bingo The Judo Club In the 1950s, the building was used as a bingo For many years in the 1960s (upstairs) and hall on two or three occasions each week by Clachnacuddin Football Club, under the auspices of George Rodgers, a director of the club who was later to become President of the Merkinch and District Welfare Association. “My grandfather was a trustee of the Clach club who regularly had social functions there. My dad would go in the next day to clean the ashtrays but he always left me to do the cleaning. It was very scary being left alone in there and I always thought there was ghosts in it!” Douglas Rogers (extract from the Oral History Archive, collected by Jason Florence, aged 9) “I used to get half a crown to clean after the bingo, brushing up and collecting all the little squares…” Peter Corbett (extract from the Oral History Archive) 1980s (downstairs) the main occupant of the Hall was the popular Inverness Judo Club run by local solicitor Ken MacLeod. “We moved into the Hall in 1961, using the upstairs room for the Judo Club. But the problem was that Judo people are always bouncing up and down, and on two occasions we brought the ceiling down!” Ken MacLeod (extract from the Oral History Archive) “Judo, weddings, bingo, whist drives – there was a lot going on in that Hall at one time!” Dell McClurg (extract from the Oral History Archive) Photo: Elizabeth A. Fraser The Boxing Club The Judo Club tackled the first phase of dry rot repairs in the late 1990s, but ultimately it could not afford the upkeep of the building. After the Judo Club vacated the Welfare Hall, Merkinch Enterprise continued to take an interest in securing the future of the site, and “I used to go to the Hall for the boxing. When I was lazy I used to walk up the railway line and jump off the buildings beside the river as a short cut” George Cameron (extract from the Oral History Archive) it is through this local organisation that the restoration of the Hall has been achieved. The prolonged abandonment of the building had unfortunately taken its toll. Due to the deterioration of the timberwork as a result of prolonged water penetration, much of the original timberwork had to be replaced. The development opportunities for people living in Merkinch to participate in a range of projects and activities focused on the themes of employability and employment, training and learning, volunteer development and roof from the original extension was also building community leadership skills. trusses could be renovated; and the original An important landmark in the local removed so that the decorative timber roof internal fixtures were all taken down with great care and are now restored to their former glory. The building restoration has delivered a gym and changing rooms on the ground floor for the Inverness City Boxing Club and rooms for the Merkinch Partnership on the first floor. The Merkinch Partnership provides community streetscape, there is also no other physical evidence in Inverness of the huge impact of the Catch-My-Pal Union. Although changes have been made to the building over its life, they have been relatively few. Merkinch Welfare Hall is an attractive and significant part of our shared heritage and, thanks to the Heritage Lottery Fund and our other funding partners, the building is now fit for the future. The building The Merkinch Welfare Hall was constructed in 1914. The layout of the building and the relative sophistication of the design of the street frontage all point to the fact that the the quality of materials and fittings in nineteenth century bars and saloons. The plain but elegant fireplaces would have generated good heat in the spacious, airy Merkinch Catch-My-Pal Union trustees must rooms. although the identity of the architect has not The architectural scheme for the restoration of have engaged the services of a local architect, been recorded. There was recognition in the Temperance movement of the great draw of bars and saloons, not least for the convivial surroundings, fireplaces providing warmth, and, just as importantly, the company and fellowship of others. In designing and fitting out a bespoke Temperance building, the Catch-My-Pal Union aimed to at least match the building created a flexible space at ground floor level, with a partition that could be closed to create a small meeting room at the front, or folded back for those times when a larger space was merited for public gatherings. The ground floor meeting room, which had its own fireplace on the west gable, must have incorporated the temperance saloon so favoured by the organisation to attract passers-by off the street. The room to the rear had much greater height, with a dramatic king post roof supported on stone corbels. This room was well suited to recreational use, perhaps as a billiards hall. It would have been a light and airy space, with three sets of roof lights on the long sides and a single roof light on the piended or sloping hipped end. “I went to the doors of the saloons to see things for myself. I saw that the saloons were usually well filled and, in many cases, crowded. Wherever there are saloons there is drinking. Wherever there is drinking there is drunkenness. Wherever there is drunkenness there is much need of saving the drunkards.” An extract from The Happy Art of Catching Men: A Story of Good Samaritanship, by the Rev. RJ Patterson, the founder of the Catch- my-Pal movement (1914) Photo: Rachel Forrest Photo: Gordon Macleod “I went to the doors of the saloons to see things for myself. I saw that the saloons were usually well filled The first floor includes a large room, with fireplaces at each end, which would have provided further meeting space, or possibly space for planned activities. This room would have had good daylight, with three sets of wide dormer windows. The timber stair leading to the first floor rooms is well detailed, as are the five-panelled doors and the fireplaces, all supplied to the same plain, but elegant, pattern. Indeed, the words plain but elegant could be used to describe the building as a whole, with the functionality of the rooms and exterior façade enhanced by good quality workmanship and design. The Hall is substantially unaltered, with many simple elegant details of design, finish, materials and workmanship still visible. High quality materials were used for both exterior and interior finishes and fittings and it makes a significant contribution to the streetscape. The Welfare Hall’s simple elegance is expressed in the subtle advanced and recessed bays to the street façade. Pedimented dormers with an unusual swept and, in many cases, crowded. Wherever saloons there central finial there create aare lively roofline and the is modulated façade is given further interest drinking. Wherever there is drinking is drunkenness. window on there the central bay. These details are with flattened scrolls surrounding the upper sharply worked in crisp sandstone, Wherever there is drunkenness there is much need of saving the characteristic of the high quality of materials drunkards.” building, both inside and out. The ogee cast and craftsmanship in evidence throughout the iron guttering, decorative wall head An extract from The Happy Art of Catching ventilation grill and the decorative hopper Men: A Story of Good Samaritanship, by head all reflect the high quality materials and the Rev. RJ Patterson, the founder of the good survival rates. Catch-my-Pal movement (1914) The Drum Clock Today, the Hall is readily identified by the Drum Clock, hanging below the central dormer. In 1929, Donald Maclennan, a candidate at the local elections for the Town Council, used the hall for his address to a packed gathering. After winning a seat on the Council, in September 1931 he proposed a motion that the Drum Clock should be removed from the town steeple on Bridge Street and relocated onto the Welfare Hall on Grant Street. The motion was carried and the Merkinch Welfare Hall gained its most prominent feature. The Drum Clock was removed from the face of the Hall for repair. This enabled an investigation into the construction of the clock. The clock is made of wood (like a barrel) with a metal coating. It was originally painted black but the paint oxidised and gave the clock its green colour, with a gold or yellow crown and decoration. This type of clock is often named a turret clock or a public clock. The clock was originally weight-driven (operated by weights that, under gravity, drive the hands of the clock by means of a gear train). However, in the late 1970s it was converted to electrical power and most likely also at this point painted grey. “Rutherfords the Watchmaker used to wind the clock twice a year, when the clocks were put forward or back. But if the clock stopped any other time, they were told pretty quickly!” Peter Corbett (extract from the Oral History Archive) Photo: Monika Maleszka-Ritchie “Under the clock on a Saturday night, you were more or less guaranteed a fight, there would be a circle after the pubs closed” Ron Geddes (extract from the Oral History Archive) Lindsay Macdonald (the great great granddaughter of John McFarquhar who may have made the Drum Clock) got in touch with the project and passed on some information. Bridge Street, should be erected at the foot of Inglis Street beside Walker’s Emporium.” However, as we have seen, it actually went to the Merkinch Hall as the result of an John the clockmaker lived in Merkinch intervention by Donald Maclennan. mentioned in the census of 1841 as lodging The Inverness Courier (15th September 1931) between the 1850s and 1880s. He is with Hugh Ross and family in Dingwall with his wife Margaret. John’s occupation is listed as a clockmaker. However, at the time when the clock was constructed and mounted (by the end of 1890), John McFarquhar (who was born in 1811 and died in 1892) would have been in his late 70s. He also appeared on the Killearnan Poor Roll in 1886, partially disabled but earning a little cleaning clocks. The clock was originally hung on the Town Steeple, on the corner of Church Street and reported that “by seven votes to six, the council agreed a motion of Mr Donald Maclennan that the Drum Clock, at present in Bridge Street, be removed and re-erected on a site to be selected in Grant Street and that the matter be remitted to the Common Good Committee for consideration as to the carrying out of the work. Mr Maclennan maintained that the clock would be an advantage to the people of the Merkinch and Baillie. J J S Fraser seconded. Ex Baillie Donald Macdonald moved the previous Bridge Street. The Inverness Courier (5th May question and said that the Drum Clock was an “Inverness Town Council at their meeting last should not be moved. Mr M D Mackintosh contained in a letter from Mr James Forsyth, motion was carried as stated.” 1931) reported on a new site for the clock: night agreed to adopt the suggestion Inverness, that the Drum Clock presently in old landmark in Inverness and he felt that it seconded, but on the vote being taken, the The Community projects An ambitious and inclusive outreach programme ran alongside the repair and restoration of the Merkinch Welfare Hall. The interlinked projects and activities included open days, street art, historic archive research, public lectures, photographic workshops and training courses, school learning opportunities and community IT (Information and Technology) initiatives. The local community had the chance to ‘see behind the scenes’ during the building repair and development. The vision behind the community outreach programme was that “Understanding our past is important in preparing for tomorrow. We want to see this once thriving community hub reclaim its place in the centre of Merkinch and help to ensure this noble building is truly fit for the future.” “I found it a pleasure to help carry out historical research on the building, discovering its origins and what it stood for. It also brought to the fore some familiar names of yesteryear. I am fascinated with the Drum Clock and it too had a few tales to tell” Anne C MacKintosh (Inverness Local History Forum) The Photography Group The Merkinch Welfare Hall: Documentary Photography Group, led by professional photographer John MacPherson, recorded not only progress of the restoration works but also the people involved. The group sought to place the Merkinch Welfare Hall within its own local context and within the context of other historic buildings in Inverness and the Highlands. The Group also received Alongside the serious business of recording the building there was still plenty of opportunity to have fun. While the Documentary Photography Group was learning about photography in low light conditions, the Hall also played host to some great glow stick-inspired photography (thanks to volunteer Tsara Cole). professional training in historic building photography for survey and recording from the Scotland’s Urban Past project. "The thing I loved about the project was getting to witness and document an abandoned shell of a building getting a new lease of life. Even abandoned things can be beautiful with a bit of work" Tsara Cole (Documentary Photography Group) “I really enjoyed learning about different kinds of photography and seeing the changes in the Hall as it was renovated” Elizabeth A. Fraser (Documentary Photography Group) Photo: Monika Maleszka-Ritchie “The Documentary Photography course was both enlightening and informative. I shall use the knowledge gained for the rest of my life and hope to pass it on to my grandson. To see the hall as it was and its amazing transformation and to record this process was a once in a lifetime chance – and to have fun doing it was a bonus!” Chris Renwick (Documentary Photography Group) The Time Capsule A Time Capsule was buried in the Hall with the help of children from Merkinch Primary school and invited guests. The time capsule was a fun opportunity to explore the history and heritage of the Hall with school pupils, staff and the wider community, allowing people an opportunity to engage in creating future heritage. The children enjoyed collaborating across their classes and worked really hard on the content. The time capsule contains objects and mementos chosen by children from the school – a school jumper, photographs of the school and stories about Merkinch written by the children. “The time capsule was a chance to mark the new life breathed into the Hall. We looked back into the history of the Hall and the people who used it – and looked forward into the future of the Hall and thought about the people who will use and enjoy it.” Monika Maleszka-Ritchie (Merkinch Welfare Hall Learning and Outreach Officer) The Street Art Project The results of the Merkinch Welfare Hall: Fit for the Future Street Art project were hung on the hoardings outside of the Merkinch Welfare Hall restoration. The amazing graffiti panels echo the past and future uses of the Hall. They were created by pupils from Inverness High School, with guidance and tuition provided by expert street artist Marc Delaye. The creative Street Art graffiti project helped to engage young people from Merkinch with the restoration of the Temperance Hall. The project aimed to develop confidence within the group through the creative process and to promote team work and collaboration between team members. The final exhibition has been mounted (in two parts) on the hoardings of the Merkinch Welfare Hall and displays a high standard of individual artwork within a coherent and colourful ensemble. The young artists first learned 'can control' (to be able to work freehand) and also 'stencil' techniques. “We promoted team work and collaboration between team members, in order to achieve a high standard for the final artwork – and aimed to show individual artwork within a coherent and colourful ensemble. The artwork was inspired by the past and future use of the Merkinch Welfare Hall, via the temperance movement, the early 20th century architecture itself and the future of the building as a boxing club.” Marc Delaye (Fresh Paint) There are twelve panels for the Street Art project, inspired by the past and future use of the Merkinch Welfare Hall. The first five represent the past and present, depicting the temperance Catch-My-Pal Union with the clear message of the drunk man and the women who were fighting temptation. The future is represented in the panels depicting the Merkinch Welfare Hall full of life as a vibrant boxing club. Taking part in the project from Inverness High School were Chloe Connell, Caitlin Mackintosh, James Newlands, Michael Shields-Stevenson, Louise Watt, Caitlin Hunter, Aidyn Jones, Kuba Logocki, Jack Mackenzie, Chantelle McLeod and Calum Stewart. “We are all so proud of what the young artists have achieved. They have taken inspiration from both the past and the future of the Hall and, in doing so, have shown both their own pride of place and their hopes and aspirations for the future. Their amazing creative expression contributed to daily life in Merkinch while the Hall was undergoing restoration, bringing colour to what were dull hoardings. What better way to celebrate the rebirth of a community hub than by enrolling young citizens to champion the process?” Monika Maleszka-Ritchie (Merkinch Welfare Hall: Fit for the Future Learning and Engagement Officer) Final Words The design team were LDN Architects, Torrance Partnership Surveyors, Irons Foulner Service Engineers, Arch Henderson Structural Engineers and Mia Scott Associates. The project was delivered by McGregor Construction. A huge thanks to everyone who contributed their time, expertise and enthusiasm to help make this project happen! “It is hard to believe the rollercoaster that we've been on with this project, from the optimism of that first community consultation on a warm summer evening in July 2009, to the nadir of rejection by the Big Lottery Fund and the fears that the roof might collapse at any moment. Yet here we are now, with the Merkinch Welfare Hall restored and poised to open its doors once again to the “It has been a pleasure to be involved in a project with such a spirit of cooperation. The finished result is a credit to McGregor Construction” Ian Fraser (LDN Architects) “I am proud to have helped to bring our Welfare Hall back to its former glory and know that it will serve the community well for many community. Wonderful!” years to come” Mia Scott (Project Manager) Terry Ellison (Merkinch Enterprise Manager) "It has been a privilege to "We specialise in refurbishment work, but I have people on restoring Merkinch the Hall took a lot of effort but was very have worked alongside so many skilled and enthusiastic Welfare Hall. The project is a marvellous example of how conservation projects can play a significant role in helping regenerate places and communities." yet to work on a more dilapidated building, with wet rot and wood worm everywhere. To restore rewarding work. Our joiners produced some great feats of joinery – so much so that the architect asked them to sign their work – and our workshop successfully reproduced all of the features that had to be replaced.” Phil MacPherson (McGregor Construction Building Site Manager) Tom Duff (LDN Architects) “The Welfare Hall was a “Being involved with various aspects of big project and took a lot of the Welfare Hall project has reinforced my it is today, back into reconnecting with my community through time and effort from a lot of people to get it to where community use. It proves it can be done!” Dell McClurg (Merkinch Community Council) connection with the community and connected heritage. I’ve had such a refreshing experience discovering wee historical gems and in engaging with lots of different people. Aye, we are now fit for the future, with an old town building vibe, revamped for a big city community tribe!" Marcus Bruce Konoso Photo: John MacPherson "Being part of this project has meant a lot to me. For many years my family has had a connection with the hall and I'm glad to be part of bringing the past, present and future of the hall together." Gordon Macleod
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