R
egardless of the sport or equestrian
pursuit, most riders would appreciate
the importance of being able to move the
shoulders of their horse to the left or right with
ease, grace and without tension, enabling the
performance of various movements or tasks with
the minimum of effort. The ability to move the
shoulders of the horse to the left or to the right
with seemingly little effort in all gaits, is termed
‘power steering’.
Before trying to improve the steering on a horse
it is critical to understand that steering (turning)
has nothing to do with bending – it is basically
moving the hands left or right. This movement
encourages the horse to move its shoulders away
from the outside rein and to stay in the centre
between both rein. Bending, on the other hand, is
moving one rein back and the other rein forward
to allow the bend through the horse’s body or
neck as required.
A horse can turn with inside or outside bend
(counter bend) or with a straight neck. Advanced
steering involves shoulder control movement,
which is moving the front feet of the horse to the
left or the right, and it is initially taught with a
straight neck.
THE TURN ON THE HINDQUARTERS
The most important exercise that helps a horse
to refine its shoulder control is a Turn on the
Hindquarters, which is initially taught as a
quarter turn 90 degrees, then as a half turn 180
degrees, then as a full turn 360 degrees. Once the
shoulders can easily be moved left or right from
standstill or backup it is not that hard to start to
take control and move them sideways in all the
gaits – when this can be done, it can be said that
the horse has power steering!
When the rider has a good understanding,
coordination, feel, timing and balance for easily
presenting the turn on the hindquarters to the
horse, they will have little trouble educating
the shoulders to move sideways in
forward motion, but without these a
rider will have trouble producing
good accurate steering in the
forward motion of walk,
trot and canter.
Continued
August/September 2010 - Page 13
Power Steering continued...
Turn on the Hindquarters
Understanding the
fundamentals
required
SuppORTING
REIN
LEADING
REIN
If more ‘brake’ is required the outside rein (right) can
be used in an intermittent (on/off) manner but the left
rein must stay constant and continue to lead.
SIMPLIFIED - both reins move to the left and
give a little direction to the nose. Both reins hold
back just enough to discourage forward movement.
When energy is produced with the outside leg the
rein aids will encourage the shoulders to step away
from the outside rein and move sideways to
find the centre of the two reins.
THE LEG AIDS
The inside (left) leg is passive (inactive)
- not pushed out and away from the
horse as this often moves the riders
seat into a bad position towards the outside
of the saddle. The outside (right) leg is used at
the girth and is the active leg - it produces the energy
for the movement and discourages the horse’s rib
cage and hindquarters from falling out to the right.
The outside leg aid must be used at exactly the same
time as the rein aids move to the left and discourage
forward movement.
In advanced dressage when doing a move such as
the pirouette, which is an advanced form of turn on
the hindquarter, the outside leg will be used less and
only enough to discourage the hindquarters from
falling out. The inside leg will add energy and rhythm
to the movement.
The horse moves the front end around a pivotting
hindquarters with the inside hind leg turning almost in place
and the outside hind leg creating a small circle around the
pivoting inside hind.
THE SEAT AIDS
A turn on the hindquarters is a shoulder control
exercise where the horse moves the shoulders
sideways in a circular motion with the outside
front leg crossing over in front of the inside front
leg. The horse moves the front end around a
pivotting hindquarters with the inside hind leg
turning almost in place and the outside hind
leg creating a small circle around the pivoting
inside hind.
THE REIN AIDS
A turn on the hindquarters to the left while the horse
is at a standstill involves reins, hands and elbows
moving to the left. The right, support rein, comes
against the horse’s neck but never across it. The left,
leading rein, opens away from the neck and on a
green horse that is learning the movement this can
open quite wide so long as it does not change the
balance of the rider. This leading rein is never pulled
back to bend the neck, it is a constant rein and is
held in a ‘open’ position. If the rider were to bend the
neck by pulling back, it would be harder for the horse
to move its shoulders to the left, as the bend would
pop the shoulder out to the right and also encourage
the hindquarters to fall out to the right.
A little flexion left in the poll and gullet is fine, but
only just enough so that the rider can see the inside
eye, with the neck staying straight. Once the reins
have moved to the left, both reins hold back a little
to discourage the horse from stepping forward. The
left rein holds the leading rein open and the right
rein is closed against the neck, holding the ‘brake’.
August/September 2010 - Page 14
The rider’s seat and upper body should move a little
towards the direction of the turn (left), with the eyes
and belly button also turning a little towards to the
left. However, this should not be exaggerated. As the
seat moves slightly to the left it will encourage the
horse’s withers to move left to find the centre of the
rider’s seat bones.
TRY standing on the ground with feet apart and
knees bent as in the riding position and then move
the hips and upper body to the left without leaning,
pointing the belly button and eyes a little left and
then taking the right leg and crossing it over in front
of the left leg. If it is easy to do this when standing
on the ground it will be easy for the horse to do the
same with its front legs when the rider is sitting in
that position in the saddle.
COMMON MISTAKES
DO NOT stand on the inside stirrup and lean to
left as will cause the horse to initially fall in one step
with the shoulders to the left, but because the rider’s
outside seat bone has come up and off the saddle, it
opens up the outside of the horse and the hindquarters
may fall out by the second step of the turn.
TRY standing on the ground in the riding position,
putting weight on the left foot then leaning out to the
left - this will cause the rider’s outside (right) hip to lift
up and as the right leg crosses in front of the left leg,
the rider will want to fall or stumble to the left. Riding in
this position will have a similar effect on the horse.
DO NOT lower the inside (left) shoulder, raise
the outside shoulder and collapse onto the inside
hip. If the rider does this the inside hip moves across
the saddle towards the outside (right) and the inside
hip and thigh block and discourage the movement.
Often when riders do this they also pull back on the
inside (left) rein, making the outside rein higher than
The shoulders move sideways
in a circular motion with the
outside front leg crossing over
in front of the inside front leg.
the inside, which results in the outside hip pushed up
and open - in this position the horse can only fall out
through the hindquarters because all the weight is on
the shoulders blocking the movement.
TRY standing in the riding position and then lowering
the left shoulder and collapsing onto the left hip until
the hips are pushed to the outside (right). Stay in that
position and try to lift the outside (right) leg and cross
it in front of the left one - it is almost impossible! The
reins and shoulders must stay level or with the inside
rein and shoulder very slightly higher.
DO NOT open the inside leg (left) and lean to the
outside with the inside shoulder high and the outside
shoulder low and with the weight on the outside stirrup.
This lightens the inside of the horse but weights the
outside making it difficult for the horse to bring the
outside leg across – also, if the horse did move quickly
to the left the rider would fall off to the right.
TRY standing in the riding position raising the inside shoulder
(left) and lowering the outside shoulder and then leaning to the
outside putting the weight on the outside foot and lifting the inside
foot off the ground and pointing it to the left - it is now impossible
to lift the right leg and put it in front of the left foot!
COMBINED AIDS SIMPLIFIED. The reins, hands
and elbows are moved to the left and are gently holding back to
discourage stepping forward. The rider’s eyes and belly button
look in the direction of the turn – the rider should be careful not to
exaggerate this. The upper body and seat move a little to the left
BuT STAY LEVEL not leaning, encouraging the withers to move
left and find the centre of the seat bones. The left leg is relaxed
and the right leg has blocked the outside of the horse and become
active to create the energy for the turn. When all the aids are
applied correctly together, the hindquarters should turn almost in
place and the shoulders step sideways away from the outside rein
and seek the centre of the two reins. When this happens, the horse
gets relief from the aids and is allowed to walk on.
Exercises for the Hindquarter Turn
A good place to teach the turn on the hindquarters is when
working along a wall or fence. Start by walking along the wall
to the left and tip the horse’s nose towards the wall (right), using
the right leg to push the hindquarters away from the wall and halt
facing it. This is called a turn on the forehand.
Once the horse is halted, facing the wall and settled give the
cues to move the shoulders 90 degrees away from the wall to
the left (turn on the hindquarters). The cues are reins left, elbows
left, hands left, eyes and belly button a little left and horse’s nose
slightly left, right leg on the girth. The hindquarters must turn in
place as the shoulders move sideways to the left away from the
wall. When parallel to the wall and a horse length away from the
wall, soften the reins and use the right leg to encourage the horse
to walk on.
If for any reason the hindquarters end up next to the wall the
exercise was done incorrectly. There are only two reasons that
Power Steering continued...
this would happen - one, the rider gave correct cues
but the horse did not understand them and pushed its
hindquarters against the rider’s leg ending up back
at the wall, or secondly, the rider forgot to hold back
on the rein as the cues were given and the horse just
walked forward and over to the wall. Whether it is the
rider’s fault or the horse’s fault the correction is the
same. Do not accept the hindquarters near the wall instantly push them away with the right leg and again
halt facing the wall, repeating this correction every
time the hindquarters ends up near the wall. Be
consistent, remember in horse training consistency
is a rider’s best friend, inconsistency their biggest
enemy. Relax the horse for a moment before asking
it to move its shoulders away from the wall again,
not allowing the horse to walk until it ends up parallel
with, and a horse-length away from, the wall.
Reins Suggest - Legs Create Energy
The turn on the hindquarters can also be
asked from a backup, but be careful to
ask as the horse is backing, do not back
up, stop and then turn. Remember to use
slow hands (rein aids) when asking the
shoulders to move. The shoulders cannot
be forced to move better by giving stronger
rein aids - if the shoulders are not moving it
is because the feet are not moving and the
horse needs to give a better response to the
leg aid. Remember that reins suggest the
direction of the movement and the rider’s
leg produces the energy for the horse to
move in that direction. After moving the
shoulders from either standstill or back up,
it is important to walk the horse on.
TuRN ON THE
FOREHAND
Do not halt and move the hindquarters as this will often put a ‘break’ in the horse’s body and cause it to step
backwards during the movement as the rider is applying a leg aid but not allowing the horse to move forward.
Only move the hindquarters sideways from standstill once the horse is very good at doing it from forward
motion. Even then, move the horse about half a step forward before asking the hindquarters to move over.
TuRN ON THE
HINDQuARTERS
Once the horse is halted, facing the wall and settled give the cues to move the shoulders 90 degrees away from
the wall to the left. Do not walk on until the horse is parallel to the wall.
Continued
Another exercise to improve a turn on the hindquarters is the clock
exercise. Sitting on the horse at standstill, the horse and rider
are in the centre of a clock at the dot where the two hands
join, facing towards 12 o’clock. Walk from the centre
four or five steps towards 12, and then instantly back
up towards the centre. On approaching the centre
move the shoulders 90 degrees while still backing
and immediately walk four to five steps forward
to 3 o’clock. At 3 o’clock back up to the centre,
move the shoulders 90 degrees and walk out to 6
o’clock, at 6 o’clock back out to the centre move the
shoulders 90 degrees and walk out to 9 o’clock. At
9 o’clock back up to the centre, move the shoulders
90 degrees and walk out to 12 o’clock. At 12 o’clock
back up towards the centre and repeat this pattern in
the opposite direction (right). This is a great exercise to
test accuracy and obedience - it may not start off neat
but with a little practice it can be done neatly and this will
be the start of developing good shoulder control at slow speed.
Remember, good shoulder control produces good steering.
The turn on the hindquarters can be
further improved by side stepping
or leg yielding the whole horse
sideways immediately after moving the
shoulders. The horse will be expecting
to move further away from the same
leg and won’t be tempted to fall back
in with the hindquarters after the turn.
This exercise develops a lot of respect
to the leg as well as coordination, feel
and timing in the rider.
Continued
August/September 2010 - Page 15
Power Steering continued...
When asked to move the shoulders, some
horses will back up as a misunderstanding
or as a resistance. If the rider believes the
horse has misunderstood (or is confused),
opening the leading rein wider with
contact and softening the brake a little on
the supporting rein (neck rein) may help.
Often when this is done, the horse will
instantly step across with the shoulders - be
sure to walk on. If the horse is still doing
an unwanted back up, check that the neck
rein is not being pushed across the neck (it
can only come to the centre of the neck).
This would cause it to become a stronger
brake rein and cause the horse to back up –
remember, slow gentle rein aids.
If the rider feels that the correct aids have
been given but the horse is still backing
instead of turning, the correction is to trot
forward for one or two ten to fifteen metre
circles and then coming back to walk and
halt and settling at the same spot. Maybe
give the horse a rub or scratch and think
about the aids before asking again for the
shoulder movement. This correction can
be done as many times as it takes until the
horse moves its shoulders sideways instead
of backing up - remember to walk on when
the horse gives the correct response.
Never correct backing by driving the horse
forward two to three steps then halting this never makes sense to the horse, as it
was just given a go forward cue and when
The turn on the hindquarters can also be
practiced on a circle. use a cone or marker
as the centre of a six metre circle and,
walking left around the six metre circle
use the inside leg (left) to push the
hindquarters away from the circle, halting
facing the circle but not allowing the
horse to go into the circle. From either
standstill or backup move the shoulders
90 degrees away from the circle (hands
right, left leg on). This can be improved by
adding two to three sidesteps after moving the
shoulders and then walking on a bigger circle.
Eventually the rider should be able to do a turn on
the hindquarters anywhere they choose.
it goes forward the rider pulls on its mouth
and said why did you go forward? This
type of correction causes confusion and
some horses will respond by becoming
excited, jigging, rearing or running back
more violently. Always correct unwanted
backing by trotting forward. The horse
will find backing created more work and
this correction will also stress stronger
obedience to the go forward cue - the
number one cue.
All these exercises have been done to the
left - naturally they will need to be taught
to the right as well.
In a future issue, Steve will discuss ways to
improve accuracy and steering in forward
motion.
About The Author
Steve Brady
One of Australia’s
most highly
regarded full time
Horsemanship
Clinicians with 40
years experience in
the horse industry,
Steve does clinics in
all states of Australia
and New Zealand.
email: [email protected]
Web: www.stevebradyhorsemanship.com/
August/September 2010 - Page 19
H
orses trained so their shoulders are always searching for the centre of the reins (ie. hands left or hands right should
equal shoulders left or shoulders right) give riders the ability to move the horse either right or left, with seemingly
little effort, and produce what is generally termed ‘power steering’.
The best initial exercise to impress this on a horse is the turn on the hindquarters, which was explained in Part 1 ‘Power
Steering’ in the August/September (Vol 32 No 2) issue. Riding squares, circles, wagon-wheels and triangles are some of the
best patterns to produce power steering in forward motion. Before starting these patterns a horse should already be able to
trot and canter circles, although neatness in this exercise is not a necessity (ie the horse may sometimes fall in or fall out on
the circle.)
The patterns will teach a horse to retain an accurate circle whilst maintaining its bend and flexion and will also allow the rider
to control the steering so they can place the horse anywhere they would like to.
Squares to
Improve Steering
Diagram 2
Diagram 1
2
turninG in forWard motion
in WalK
When these turns can be done easily and
accurately from halt, start to do them in walk and
gradually progress to trot and canter. Slow the
walk as approaching the corner and as the tail
goes past the corner, give the cues to turn on the
hindquarters as the horse is still walking.
1
Halt and turn:
Riding squares at the walk, trot and canter is a great way to improve
the steering on any horse. Initially, a horse is taught to steer with lots
of pulling on the reins or even to turn by moving the hindquarters,
but all advancement and refinement in steering comes by training the
shoulders to move left or right and stay between the reins.
Start the horse in walk on a 15 meter square using four cones to mark
each corner of the square. Travelling to the left, walk past a corner and
halt with the tail just past the corner. Look left to the next corner, then
do a turn on the hindquarters and instantly walk to the next corner and
repeat. Remember to make sure that the tail is just past the corner
before halting.
see diagram 2.
If the horse does not turn sharp enough, it
means the rider did not hold back enough as
they gave the cues and the horse moved too
forward in the turn. Try to do better at the next
corner but if the horse is still not turning sharp
enough, go back to practicing more at stand still
or even just stop in the middle of the turn and
leg yield the rest of the way back to the square.
see diagram 1. Repeat the exercise
on all four corners of the square.
see diagram 3.
Diagram 3
Diagram 4
leg yield back to
square
leg yield back to
square
Halt
4
Another resistance that may occur is the hindquarters falling to the
outside of the turn causing the horse to turn on its centre instead of
its hindquarters. This is often caused by too much inside bend and/or
pulling back on the inside rein. Too much bend puts too much pressure
on the ribs and the hindquarters to bow to the outside.
No matter what gait the rider is attempting this in (initially in walk and
progressively in trot or canter), they should do the initial turns with a
straight neck or even a tiny outside bend. Only on a highly advanced
horse would a rider do the turn with inside bend.
If the hindquarters still continue to fall out, the rider should halt in the
middle of the turn without removing their outside leg and as quickly
as possible, side-pass or leg-yield back to the square - then continue
to the next corner and try again. Consistently do this correction even
as they progress up to trot and eventually canter. BE CONSISTENT!
Falling out with the hindquarters is the horse pushing into the rider’s
leg cue. Correct it by doing an exercise that causes the horse to move
away from the rider’s leg (ie. The leg-yield or side-pass)
see diagram 4.
Too forward
Not turning
sharp enough
Halt
3
Once these 90 degree turns in walk and trot have been
mastered, progress to mastering more difficult patterns such as
circles, wagon-wheels and triangles. There is no need to wait
until canter on squares has been mastered before moving on.
As soon as the walk and trot are mastered, start on the other
patterns but continue to work with squares in canter. In trot and
canter the squares should be quite large - somewhere between
20-30 metres.
Working on squares check list
Do not have inside bend.
Start at stand-still.
Have the tail just past the corner.
Gradually work through all the gaits (walk, trot and canter).
When doing corrections, the rider should not remove their outside
leg as they halt.
If horse does not turn sharp enough, halt and leg-yield back to
the square.
If the hindquarters fall out, also halt and leg-yield back to the
square.
Use larger squares when working in trot and canter. Continued
Refining Power Steering continued...
Steering on Circles
Don’t confuse bend with steering (see Part 1 - Aug Sept Vol 32 no 2) and when
first training circles don’t worry about bend, that comes later. Be concerned
about what the horse’s feet are doing - and keeping the feet on the circle.
On a circle the horse should be trained to stay between the two reins. The
rider needs to be constantly aware of not holding one rein against the neck to
discourage the horse from falling in or falling out, this is ‘nagging’! If, with every
stride, the rider is saying to the horse “don’t fall in” or “don’t fall out” by holding
the rein against the horse’s neck constantly, then horses - like children - will
very quickly tune out and ignore the requests. They will continue to fall in or
out against the aid.
Do not micro-manage the horse! If the horse falls in or out only a little and the
rider instantly corrects it each time, they will find that they constantly have to
correct the horse to keep it on the circle. They are then starting to ‘baby-sit’ the
horse and will always need to be telling it what to do. Try to make the horse more
responsible for the job the rider has set it up to do (ie. to stay on the circle).
fallinG in or out
Falling in or out is basically a steering problem. The horse is not staying between
the two reins and, to cause the horse to want to stay on the circle, the rider needs
to allow it to make the mistake of coming either in or out the circle at least three
metres before they correct it.
CorrECtion for ‘fallinG out’
When correcting the problem of falling out away from a left-hand circle, wait
until the horse is at least three metres away from the circle.As the horse starts
to move away, keep focused and with gentle rein and seat aids, aim towards the
original circle. The horse will start to run into the outside rein the more it drifts
out if the rider has kept their aids towards the original circle. Once the horse
has committed to the mistake by moving three metres out, change the rider’s
focus to the centre of the circle and do a strong 90 degree shoulder turn to the
left - the same as would be done at the corner of a square- and then go straight
across the middle of the circle. At the far side of the circle do another 90 degree
left shoulder turn back onto the circle. The horse will soon understand that if it
doesn’t correct itself back onto the circle as soon as it runs into the outside rein,
the rider is going to cause it to do a more difficult correction (ie. the 90 degree
sharp turns). If the rider consistently does this correction every time the horse
falls out, then soon it will start to correct itself to avoid the stronger correction
and will stay on the circle.
Diagram 5: ‘fallinG out’ CorrECtion
When 3 mtrs away for the circle
do a 90° turn - go straight
across the circle and
on the other side
do another 90° turn.
Correcting ‘falling out’ check list
The rider will need to be consistent (correct every time)
Allow the horse to make the mistake (do not micro-manage)
Keep focus, position and gentle reins riding the circle as the horse falls out
The horse will eventually correct itself and stay on the circle to avoid a stronger
correction.
If the rider is are very disciplined with focus and seat position, they can teach a
horse to stay on a circle even on a loose rein.
October/November 2010 - Page 6
Wagon Wheel Pattern
Correcting ‘falling in’ check list
Turning across the centre of the circle is a good training pattern to improve
steering, even if thehorse is not falling out. When a rider does these turns from
different spots on the circle, it starts to look like what a ‘wagon-wheel’ pattern
with lots of spokes crossing in the middle. This is a pattern that can be done
every day, especially in canter. see diagram 6.
Diagram 6.
start HErE
WaGon WHEEl
pattErn
Riding Triangles
At any given point on
a circle left, do a 90°
shoulder turn left (cues
for turn on the hindquarters)
go straight across the
middle of the circle
and at the other side
so a 90° turn left back
onto the circle. Do
these turns at random
points and after a few
turns the pattern will start to
look like a wagon wheel. Do all
to the left for 5-10 min then to the
right for 5-10 min.
Triangles are a great pattern, which leads to power steering. They are designed
to do mostly in trot and canter. Initially they can be done in walk just to get a
feel for the pattern.
This pattern is done initially by marking out a 30 metre square with a cone at
each corner. There are eight turns to complete the pattern. About the smallest I
would do this pattern is 20 metres. The turns are a bit sharper than 90 degrees
and therefore slightly more difficult. see diagram 9.
Diagram 9.
ridinG trianGlEs
Horse images are not in proportion to size of
circles in diagrams
CorrECtion for ‘fallinG in’
Again this is just a steering problem - the horse is not staying between the reins
and is coming off the line it was originally set on.
On some horses it feels like there is a magnet in the centre of the circle pulling
them in. As the horse starts to fall in - say on a left circle, it will start to lean on
the inside rein and usually turns its head to the outside. It is important that the
rider holds their focus, position and gentle rein aids as if they were still trying to
ride the outside of the circle. When the horse has fallen in about three metres
(allow the horse to make the mistake), do a strong 90 degree turn to the right
(the outside) and then ride about three metres outside of the circle and then
do a strong 90 degree turn to the left and ride back onto the line of the circle.
If the rider is consistent, the horse will soon learn to stay on the circle to avoid
the stronger corrections. As soon as it feels the inside rein against its shoulder
and neck, it will correct itself back onto the circle and find the centre of the reins.
see diagram 7.
Diagram 7.
‘fallinG in’ CorrECtion
Shoulders have
‘fallen’ in to the
inside of circle
Diagram 8.
A good shoulder and steering
pattern in trot.
Circles should be
approx. 20 to 30 metres.
Allow the horse to make the mistake.
Hold focus, position and reins as if riding the outside of the circle.
Over correct with sharp turns.
When this correction is done in canter the horse will probably brake back to
trot at the turn to the outside, then as it is turned back onto the circle ask it to
canter on again.
Even if the horse is not falling in, this is a good training pattern to do in trot to
improve steering. see diagram 8
When this exercise is done
in canter the horse will
break back to a trot.
As you turn back
onto the
circle start
to canter
again.
Shoulder turns are a bit
more than 90° and
therefore slightly more
difficult.
Remember to push the
horse around the turn
with the outside leg
and rein.
.Riding triangles check list
Do mostly in trot and canter.
Keep repeating one way until the horse is relaxed and puffing a little, then have
a rest and repeat in the new direction until the horse is relaxed again.
By the time a rider has mastered squares and wagon-wheels, triangles will not
be hard to teach and they will sharpen and improve their steering even more.
All squares, wagon-wheels and triangle patterns are done with several
repetitions the one way. Then rest the horse until it is breathing easy and repeat
several times in the new direction.
Squares, wagon-wheels and triangles have a calming and slowing effect on a
horse’s feet, particularly when done in canter.
Once a rider can successfully execute their squares, circles,
wagon-wheels and triangles in trot and particularly in canter,
they will have power steering and teaching even more advanced
shoulder manoeuvres (such as spins, roll-backs and haunch turns
for stock horses and western horses or pirouettes for dressage
horses) will not be difficult.
“Once I can ride squares, circles, wagon-wheels and triangles
in trot and canter, I rarely do a ride without doing them. I
particularly like these patterns in canter.”
Good luck and good training! Steve Brady
About The Author
Steve Brady
One of Australia’s most highly regarded full time
Horsemanship Clinicians with 40 years
experience in the horse industry, Steve does
clinics in all states of Australia and New Zealand.
email: [email protected]
Web: www.stevebradyhorsemanship.com
October/November 2010 - Page 7
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