Stephens
Aquatic
Services
-------------inc-------------257 Kennett Pike, Rte 52S
Chadds Ford, PA 19317
Phone 610-388-3090
Fax 610-388-3093
www.SASPONDS.com
2011 Fall
Newsletter
Recommendations for USDA Winter Hardiness Zones 5,6,7,8
Fall maintenance & Winter survival guide for fresh water
Ponds & Water gardens in the North Eastern United States
from the desk of Pamela J .Stephens Schlett
October 2011
Hello to all of our water gardening friends,
It is now officially fall and it is time again to get our wet friends ready for the winter. If we have not been washed away in
the flooding, then we are all over-saturated and soggy. I only wish our torrential rains could have been shared with other areas
of the US that are in draught. The web site is not much different today, www.sasponds.com But I am currently working on a new
site that will be easier for me to update and more interactive with you our loyal customers. Go to
http://www.sasponds.com/sign-up-to-our-mailing-list/ or stop in to pick a copy up at the store. We can no longer send the
newsletter by postal mail due to the expense of printing and postage. The copy sent by email is loaded with information that is
not in the copy provided at the store. We are also on Face book at: Stephens Aquatic PONDS
http://www.facebook.com/pages/Stephens-Aquatics-PONDS
Update on Butch:
The family would like to send a warm thank you to everyone who has asked about Butch and Joan.
I am happy to report that both of my parents are in generally good health and living at home. Butch
will spend the remainder of his life in a wheel chair, but has exceeded the doctor’s expectations.
Cognitively he is at 85 to 90% of his pre-accident levels. He has regained movement in his right leg
and foot but unfortunately not enough to enable him to walk. His pain is under control and he is
eagerly anticipating the arrival of a custom made power chair that will make him more comfortable.
Joan has become Butchs’ care giver full time, a number of you have missed seeing her in the store.
It is our hope and goal that Butch will be able to be in the greenhouse and store come spring, and
even Joan may start to spend a little more time down with the critters and customers.
The photo to the left is current, taken last week of Butch out at a Doctor’s appointment with
Mayla, our family “service dog”. Mayla is now 17 months old and
has been training with me for 13 months to assist Dad in many
areas of his daily life. Her service Dog Training is completed with
UDS Service Dogs in Lancaster http://www.udservices.org. Mayla now opens doors, pushes
elevator and door buttons, retrieves items that fall on the floor, gives and takes
money/receipts from cashiers and is learning to fetch, hold, and give items without too many
puppy tooth marks. She is also learning to turn on and off lights. Most importantly, she is a
best friend to us all. She is a love bug… Even with her new best buddy…A bunny who
decided to get in the way of Peters Backhoe on a job site. We are rehabilitating the bunny
and plan to release it in the spring after it recovers from some neurological issues. For now it is living in the greenhouse and is
named Scamper.
As for the rest of our animal friends…
Peaches our oldest Love bird is doing well. She is now living up in the house, for those who worried and asked about her.
We lost our other 3 lovebirds this year, which were all over 10 years old. We added a female duck to our family this year. Pharo
now has 2 girlfriends, Missy and July. They are all doing great and enjoying each other’s company. The chickens are doing great,
many new babies with lots of bright colors and decorative feathers. Unfortunately Blacky and Angel both passes away this year
after many good years of life. All of the Tortoises are great, Sammie and Paige; our Sulcata are growing big and feisty. Scarlet
and Albert our red-foot and hinged back tortoises are also great. They enjoyed the summer and nice fall days in the secure lawn
area were they eat grass and sun themselves for hours on end. All of the water turtles are also great. Peter is working on the
design for a new turtle world that will be in the renovated fish room. The bunnies; Mocha and Rusty are also happy. They got a
new outdoor hutch and enjoyed time in the shaded outdoors all summer long.
Please keep in mind that there are thousands of animals in need of adoption. We visit http://www.petfinder.com/
routinely to see what great animals are available. Instead of purchasing a turtle from a pet store, consider adopting one.
Petfinder allows you to search for type, breed and location of adoptable pets. We also want to remember some local rescues we
have a relationship with: Domestic Rabbits, the House Rabbit Society: http://www.rabbit.org/chapters/sepennsylvania/index.html Native Birds, Tri-state Bird Rescue and Research: http://www.tristatebird.org/
We also want to thank our veterinarian friend Dr. Jeff “Gus” Gevantore VMD; who volunteers his time to help us take
great care of our reptile and feathered friends. Dr. Gus can be contacted at 484/326/1349 for ‘in home visits’ and husbandry
consultations for any of your reptile or exotic animal needs.
Please take some time to learn more about our local animal angels and rescue organizations.
Consider donating time, money or wish list items to a charity for the holidays.
Peter plans to renovate the fish room to start selling tropical aquarium fish. Some renovations and
materials have been purchased, we hope to have it stocked for the spring 2012 season.
Your “must have” pond product checklist:
Fall/winter food for when the water temperature drops below 60 degrees Fahrenheit
*One Pond Aerator (bubbler) with tubing and diffusers for each uncirculated pond water area
*Weather protection for aerator if it is not UL Certified for outdoor use
* Full bottle of pond-start or dechlorinator (make sure you have enough for a full water change)
* Leaf net to cover the pond and waterfall and Leaf net supports to ‘tee-pee’ the net over the pond
* Pond thermometer
*Pond de-icer
*Pond water test kit with pH, Ammonia, Nitrite, Nitrate reagents
*Shears to trim off dead plant foliage
*Trash bags to clean up and remove debris
*Plastic plant tags and sharpie marker to ensure all plants are named for spring
*Pond gloves, shoulder length (to protect you from cold water)
* Pond net or skimmer for removing debris and fish as necessary
*Winter resistant garden hose to fill pond with water (make sure it is attached to a frost-free spigot)
*Keep SAS emergency phone number (610-388-3090 ext 21) near by, so you can call us with questions
What about adding Beneficial Bacteria to the pond in the fall?
From the Mrocrobelift web site Link:
http://www.microbelift.com/products/pond-and-water-garden/seasonal/autumn-winter-prep/
Do I need to worry about your products becoming unusable if they get frozen over the winter?
Can these be stored in the garage over the winter season, or do I need to bring them inside?
The MICROBE-LIFT products, such as the liquid bacteria, will remain viable once they thaw, if frozen.
However, they will lose some viability, about 10%, with each freeze/thaw cycle, so it is better if they do not
freeze at all. The bigger problem is excessive heat in storing live bacterial products. You should be able
to store the products in the garage for the winter. The ideal storage temperatures are between 40-105ºF.
Should the products be used during the winter months? MICROBE-LIFT products can be used continuously all year,
even if used under a layer of ice. If there is a layer of ice on the pond a heater or de-icer should be used to maintain a
hole in the ice for gas exchange. Otherwise stimulating biological activity can be detrimental. If the products are under icy
water they will continue to work, however they will not proliferate at the rate they would at 65-70ºF
How should MICROBE-LIFT products be stored? A cellar, garage or shed should provide the necessary protection. The ideal
storage temperatures are between 40-105ºF.
What exactly do I need to do in the fall?
FIRST: Calculate the volume of water in your pond
Measure your pond in foot increments. If you do not know how to convert feet and inch measurements into feet only use a
conversion site such as this one: example: 1’ 8”=1.666’
http://www.onlineconversion.com/length_common.htm
Longest length = ______’ ________”
Widest Width = ______’ _______”
Deepest point = _______’ ________”
When de-chlorinating the water in your pond, it is always better to over calculate the volume than to under estimate the
volume. Most products require overdose by 2 to 6 times the recommended dosage before anything negative happens to the
fish. Were as if you under dose the pond water will still have chlorine products that will negate the effects of beneficial bacteria
and cause stress to the fish. Please read the manufactures directions carefully and call their support lines for more under/over
dose information.
multiply Length (in feet) X Width (in feet) X average Depth (in feet) then multiply this resultant by 7.5 to obtain the average
volume of water in gallons. In example Lets say your pond is 4’ 8” long x 5’ 4”wide x 30”deep The calculation would look like
this: (4.66’x5.33’)=24.8378 square feet
( 24.8378sf x 2.5’)=62.0945 cubic feet 62.0945cf x 7.5 = 465.708 gallons of water
If your pond is irregular, but you have a waterfall or external filter, the irregular areas will generally equal the volume of
water not seen in the tubing or filters.
You can also use your high school geometry and calculate individual pond areas that resemble shapes like circles,
rectangles, ovals etc…
SECOND: Analyze your pond water
A.
Take its Temperature knowing the pond water temperature allows you to know when to change fish food, install
de-icers, aerators & leaf-nets. It is also important when testing your pond water. Water below 55 deg F will not test correctly.
Test your water when the temperature is over 55 degrees Fahrenheit, between the hours of 6am and 10 am or before the
hottest part of the day. It is important to test the water at the same time everyday to have similar water chemistry conditions.
pH rises during the day due to photosynthesis. Much like human testing, the best time to test is first thing in the morning.
B.
Perform water tests
Water quality is a concern 365 days a year. Especially in climates were you experience a seasonal change.
Your water test results should be as follows:
Make sure your test kit is less than 1 year old. Test strips should be dry and liquid test reagents must be shook before
use. Also make sure your test tubes are washed out with clear pond water, do not use detergent to clean water testing
equipment. Nitrogen and phosphorus in detergents can alter test results. That is why we ask for water samples in new zip-lock
bags or never-used containers.
Test results: pH between 6.9 and 8.5
Below 6.9 is acidic, and dangerous for carp and filtration
Over 8.5 is alkaline and will affect plants fish and filtration, it also leads to added algae growth.
If you raise or lower the pH, it must be done in .02 ppm increments per 24 hour period. Call SAS for more specific help
and product information before attempting to adjust your pH.
Test results: Ammonia NH3 : 0.0 ppm is ideal
Anything above 0.0 ppm means your pond is not processing the ammonia effectively. Levels above .02 can prove toxic
to freshwater animals. A 0.00 ppm test result does not mean that you have no ammonia; it means that ammonia produced by
the fish is being processed by the beneficial bacteria into nitrogen. Otherwise, your beneficial filter is working when it comes to
ammonia.
I found this great article by the fishdoc: http://www.fishdoc.co.uk/water/ammonia.htm it explains in pretty plain
English, how ammonia reacts with the pond water to become a potentially fatal compound if not processed by the pond. Keep
in mind that zeolite is not as practical for ponds as it is for tanks. Mostly because of the amount of zeolite and the cleaning
requires. Water changes or ammonia removing products such as ACE from Jungle labs or water changes are recommended for
larger ponds.
Ammonia. Ammonia is toxic (which is why koi excrete it), is colorless and is released from the gills, readily dissolving in
pond water. It can take two forms, either free ammonia (NH3) of the ammonium ion (NH4+). The ammonium ion is less toxic
than ammonia and unfortunately, ammonia will predominantly take the toxic NH3 form in the alkaline conditions of a koi pond.
Tests have shown that fish can tolerate higher ammonia levels in more acidic water and as a result may offer a little leeway if an
ammonia problem arises in such conditions. However, the only guaranteed way of preventing koi from suffering from ammonia
toxicity (whatever the pH) is to keep it at zero.
Test results: Nitrite NO2 and Nitrate NO3 : 0.0 ppm is ideal
Anything above 0.0 ppm means your pond is not processing the forms of nitrogen effectively. Nitrite is much more
toxic than nitrate. Nitrite Levels above .02 can prove toxic to freshwater animals. A 0.00 ppm test result does not mean that you
have no nitrite or nitrate; it means that the nitrogen produced by the nitrogen cycle is being processed by the beneficial bacteria
into plant food. Otherwise, your beneficial filter is working when it comes to nitrogen.
Again the fishdoc has a great link: http://www.fishdoc.co.uk/koi/koinitrogen.htm
Saltwater is typically alkaline, while the pH (alkalinity or acidicity) of fresh water varies more. Hardness measures overall
dissolved mineral content; hard or soft water may be preferred. Hard water is usually alkaline, while soft water is usually neutral
to acidic.[35] Dissolved organic content and dissolved gases content are also important factors.
Test results: Phosphate PO43- : 0.0 ppm is ideal
Phosphate is an essential nutrient required in plant growth. It is usually not a toxic element in the pond; even though
we test for it, hi levels usually indicate other problems with the biological filtration in the pond. Elevated phosphorus can lead to
additional algae growth or low levels can deter some plant growth. Some pond professional will lower levels to help control
algae growth. Testing for phosphate is necessary to keep the pond water chemistry in check.
Test results: GH &KH, General water Hardness
General Hardness or GH is the measure of calcium (Ca++) and magnesium ions (Mg++) dissolved in water. General
Hardness is measured with the GH Test Kit. Carbonate Hardness, also known as KH, refers to the concentration of bicarbonate
(HCO3-) and carbonate (CO3--) dissolved in water. Carbonate Hardness is measured with the KH Test Kit.
Calcium and magnesium carry a positive charge and form "ion pairs" with negatively charged ions like bicarbonate, forming
calcium bicarbonate and magnesium bicarbonate; Ca(HCO3)2 & Mg(HCO3)2.
Extracted from API site http://aquariumpharm.com/Products/Product.aspx?ProductID=74
KH is a measure of the pond's ability to resist swings in pH. The higher the KH, the greater the pond's buffering capacity and the
more stable the pH. The KH can be maintained at a satisfactory level by adding calcium carbonate compounds to the filter. GH A
measure of the general hardness, which also has a loose relationship with pH and KH. As koi are hard water fish, a high GH
should be maintained through similar methods used for pH and KH.
THIRD: Perform tests on the HOSE water
It does not matter if the water is provided by an onsite well, stream, pumper truck or municipality. It is important to know
the characteristics of the water you are adding to your pond, BEFORE you add it.
Make sure you do not use a garden hose or irrigation line that is also used to fertilize or treat lawns or gardens with
anything! If your well water is treated for heavy metals and pH, make sure your hose spigot is in line with the treatment system.
Not all garden hose spigots or irrigation circuits are connected to treated water lines.
A. Perform pH, ammonia, nitrite, nitrate, salt and chlorine tests on your hose water. Follow the same directions as you did
when you tested the pond water.
B. It is also helpful to know the temperature of the hose water before you begin your water change.
C. Record these results for later use or reference.
Water Testing chart
Pond
Hose
Date Time temp pH
Am Ni
Na
Sa
Ch
temp
pH Am
Ni
Na
Sa
Ch
_____ _____ _____ _____ _____ _____ _____ _____ _____ ______ _____ _____ _____ _____ _____ _____
_____ _____ _____ _____ _____ _____ _____ _____ _____ ______ _____ _____ _____ _____ _____ _____
_____ _____ _____ _____ _____ _____ _____ _____ _____ ______ _____ _____ _____ _____ _____ _____
FOURTH: Clean the pond…do a water change…
We recommend a water change for all CLOSED RECIRCULATING PONDS AT ONSET OF EVERY NEW SEASON. Re-circulating ponds
depend on you to replenish their water supply. Water for these types of ponds comes either from a hose or from rainfall. Either
way, it is critical that you replenish any evaporated water. New water contains minerals and electrolytes crucial for water quality
and pond health. Some minerals such as salt and iron do not evaporate and stay with your pond, even when water evaporates.
Other minerals are used completely by the organisms that call your pond home. If the pond water quality is not good, a water
change and debris removal is crucial before winter sets in. In the North East, This should be performed sometime around the 3rd
or 4th week of October or when the water temperature at night drops below 60 degrees Fahrenheit. This is also when you stop
feeding the fish growth and color formula foods. If you follow these steps, you should set up your pond for a healthy winter and
productive spring.
a) Pump down and dispose of 20% to 50% of your total volume of water. We recommend using this nutrient rich water
to fertilize flowerbeds or lawns. The percentage depends on the amount of debris, algae or chemical composition
of the water. If your water contains high amounts of ammonia, nitrates or a high acid or alkaline pH, a larger water
change is required. If the hose water is different from the pond water, you will need to add water very slowly, or
make chemical adjustments. Adjustments of pH must be made over several days. You may want to fill a separate
container with hose water and make the adjustments prior to removing the pond water. Large temperature
changes should also be avoided.
b) Do not scrub the pond completely clean or use any algaecides, cleansers, or chlorine. Net out excess debris, leaves
and especially any coins that may have dropped in the water. Inspect every net full of debris for sleeping fish,
tadpoles etc. While the water level is low, inspect the liner for holes or tears. In most cases the liner can be
patched. Check with your liner manufacturer for approved patching products and methods.
c) Check the pH of the tap water against the pH of the pond water. The two water sources should have similar pH to
assure fish safety. Refill the pond to capacity with water from a safe source. Use the same source that you topped
off the pond with during the summer. If there is a large difference (more than .4ppm(parts per million) then
contact our office for suggestions to correct one of the water levels. pH test kits can be purchased for around
$4.00 at most stores.
d) Add a water treatment (with a dechlorinator) to any chlorinated or new water source. The amount you will use is
based on the volume of water and population of fish in your pond. Refer to the label to calculate the amount
suggested by the manufacturer.
e) Use beneficial bacteria formulations made especially for fall pond care. These bacteria are selected because they
work well in colder water. They also seed the pond with warmer forms of Bacteria, so the biological filtration is
ready to start working as the water warms in the spring.
The process of Bacterial filtration described in more scientific terms: (extracted from
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Aquarium) A well-balanced pond contains organisms that are able to metabolize the waste products
of other aquarium residents. The nitrogen waste produced in a tank is metabolized in aquaria by a type of bacteria known as
nitrifiers (genus Nitrosomonas). Nitrifying bacteria capture ammonia from the water and metabolize it to produce nitrite. Nitrite
is also highly toxic to fish in high concentrations. Another type of bacteria, genus Nitrospira, converts nitrite into nitrate, a less
toxic substance to aquarium inhabitants. (Nitrobacter bacteria were previously believed to fill this role, and continue to be found
in commercially available products sold as kits to "jump start" the nitrogen cycle in an aquarium. While biologically they could
theoretically fill the same niche as Nitrospira, it has recently been found that Nitrobacter are not present in detectable levels in
established aquaria, while Nitrospira are plentiful.) This process is known in the aquarium hobby as the nitrogen cycle. In
addition to bacteria, aquatic plants also eliminate nitrogen waste by metabolizing ammonia and nitrate. When plants metabolize
nitrogen compounds, they remove nitrogen from the water by using it to build biomass that decays more slowly than ammoniadriven plankton already dissolved in the water.
FIFTH: Take Care of the PLANTS IN THE POND:
Aquatic plants are classified into two groups, annual (tropical) and perennial (winter hardy).
WINTER HARDY PLANT CARE: Prune to remove all foliage as it turns 90% yellow/brown. It is important that you Do Not
take green leaves off. Premature pruning will damage the plants and make them weak. Letting them die and drop off into the
water will make a mess in the pond. So take them off just before they are completely dead. By early to mid November the plants
should be dormant. To protect them from freezing, place them in the deepest area of water. Sometimes bog and marginal
plants over winter better when planted in the ground like a perennial rather than left in shallow water that will freeze. Do not
remove water Lilies from the pond! Putting them in a warm house will not let them rest, therefore stunting next year's flower
blooms. Special arrangements must be made for ponds less than 20" in depth and some earthen pond systems. Deicers may be
needed for shallow ponds.
TROPICAL PLANT CARE: These plants must be removed from the pond before they rot in the water. To keep these and
similar plants alive you have several options. One is to store them inside your house or heated green house. Keep the water in
the pot fresh so that it does not go stale to create odor, rot the plant, or encourage insect infestation. Changing, adding water
or using an air bubbler are the best techniques to keep the water and your plant healthy. Fertilization may be required if you
keep the plant in active full growth. If foliage turns yellow, or is deformed, it may be due to too much, not enough, or the wrong
type of fertilizer. We sell fertilizers in tablet form with the correct minerals for Aquatic plants.
Option two is to take a root cutting and store that for replanting next year. Root cuttings must be done with a clean
(sterile) knife to prevent spread of disease among the tubers. Most water plants are rhizomes or tubers, which grow similar to
hardy perennials. It is important to save an end piece with at least one growing bud (or eye). Wrap the root in moist paper towel
or newspaper and place it in a plastic bag. Store in a cool frost-free place out of sunlight. Be sure it does not dry-out during
storage. If it dries out it will not usually re-sprout once planted.
Your third option is to trade your Tropical plant in for Tropical credit at our store. Credit works this way: you bring your
plant to us before the first hard frost; we give you up to 20% retail value for your plant to be used for any aquatic plant purchase
in 2004. This is in-store credit only, good until fall of the following year. Note to our wholesale customers, credit will be based
upon your
Tropical Plant Trade-ins accepted starting October 8th
Only plants with correct name labels will receive full credit. If you do not have a
correct variety name label, the plants retail price will be reduced and credit for the
plant will be subject to the Managers discretion. Please bring your register receipt.
Plants accepted in Tropical Trade-in: Tropical water lilies, lotus, canna, papyrus, taros, water spider, arrow
head, papyrus, blue bells, and bog lilies. Dormant, pest infected or plants will not be accepted.
FLOATING PLANT CARE: Floaters that are not potted, such as Water Lettuce or Hyacinths, must be removed before they
are hit by frost and die. These plants will become waterlogged once dead, and sink to the bottom of the pond. The rotting green
matter will easily pollute the pond be careful to not release any non-native aquatic plants into a local watershed or creek. Some
plant foliage may not survive, but seeds or spores released prior to the plants death may survive. Florida is under siege from
non-native plants that are choking water systems and threatening indigenous plants.
NON-AQUATIC PLANT CONCERNS:
Tree leaves falling in or blowing into the CLOSED POND SYSTEM are always a major concern. Protection may
be established by covering the pond with a leaf net. Leaf nets come in a range of sizes and mesh types. Select one that suits
your needs. Be sure to keep fruits from poisonous plants such as gingkoes out of the pond. Some tree leaves contain tannin and
will make your water color brown as they decompose.
Perimeter pond plantings should be cut back to avoid leaves, flowers or stems from becoming debris in the pond.
Consider starting a compost pile to convert this organic matter into nutrient rich soil for your garden or lawn. Hint: Suspend the
net over planks in a tepee configuration or PVC tubing bent in arches over the pond so that leaves roll off the net and do not
weigh it down. Also be careful that a net heavy with leaves does not fall into the water and freeze, it may trap fish causing them
to freeze and die. Leave an opening at the bottom of the net for frogs to escape so they can burrow in the ground around the
pond. The opening can be made by using a large can opened on both ends with smooth edges. Pin the leaf net around the can
perimeter to secure it and the opening. We supply leaf nets and support framing in custom sizes. Call today for a price quote or
to place an order.
Tree leaves and plant debris can cause serious silting in natural ponds. It can take years for this organic matter to be
broken down and absorbed into the earthen pond. Scavengers such as snails and worms will help the process. It is usually a
good idea not to blow leaves or debris into the pond and to attempt raking the embankments after leaves have fallen to remove
a large portion of them.
SIXTH: Install Winterizing Equipment
Install Leaf nets: Either use a onetime net or SAS custom cut nets. Determine the timing of the installation on the types
of deciduous plants and trees on you’re and your neighbors properties. Keeping leaves and debris out of the pond will help
keep the pond water clear and clean. However, you do not need to get every single leaf out. Clients with lots of frogs or turtles
may choose to let some leaf litter stay in the pond to help the animals hibernate. Remember that some evergreen trees shed
needles and pinecones all winter long.
Installing aerators Air pumps (bubblers) are installed outside of the pond. They generally have a short electric cord and
plug into a GFCI outlet near the pond. Air line tubing (usually 3/16 I.D.) is connected to the air pump. The other end of the tubing
goes into the pond water and is connected to an air stone or diffuser. Air enters the pump and is compressed and pushed thru
the tubing, into the air stone. The air comes out of the diffuser as small air bubbles that can easily be mixed with the water in the
pond, making it ready for use by all aquatic organisms.
Installing De-icer: Pond de-icers are sometimes referred to as pond heaters. Floating de-icers are not true heaters.
Heaters take circulated water and heat it to a set temperature. You find heaters in hot tubs, spas and swimming pools. What we
use in ponds are floating de-icers. The de-icer has an internal thermostat that triggers the heat element when the pond surface
water temperature drops below 38 degrees Fahrenheit. De-icers come in many shapes and sizes. They are rated by the amount
of electric they use. A 100 watt De-icer will generally keep a smaller whole open compared to a 1500 watt unit. The principle is to
keep a whole open in the surface ice all winter. Heating the pond water surface also makes the ice around the unit thinner.
Keeping a hole open all winter allow the pond to respire, completing the cycle of gas exchange. We find that a great
combination is to use a de-icer with an aeration pump and diffuser. This keeps air in the pond and the air bubbles agitate the
surface making the de-icing unit more effective.
Do not use extension cords to connect equipment to your electrical outlet.
DO NOT BREAK THE ICE BY HITTING OR BEATING ON IT…. THE CONCUSSION CAN KILL OR HURT THE FISH
LET SAS CLEAN AND WINTERIZE YOUR POND OR
WATER FEATURE…
Lee is still scheduling fall pond service, call ASAP to
secure your appointment 610-388-3090 ext 22
WHY AERATION IS THE KEY TO A HEALTHY POND:
Aeration can be achieved and maintained in a number of ways. The primary goal in any system is to keep a whole open
in the surface of the pond, free from ice. This will allow the pond to respire and release gasses produced by decomposing
matter and fecies in the pond. It will also allow for fresh atmospheric air to enter the pond. Aeration is required for all living
beneficial organisms that live in the pond. Aerobic bacteria may become dormant, but not dead in the cold pond water. They
still need air to survive. They will still function to consume ammonia and produce nitrogen. Often a frozen pond becomes a
battle ground for survival. The larger organisms who require more resources are the ones who will inevitably loose the battle.
That is why pond keepers see their largest fish die after a cold sustained winter. If it isn’t from a pond freezing solid like an ice
cube in a tray, it is from oxygen depletion and suffocation.
The most popular methods for keeping a whole open in the ice are:
1. Maintain your water pump and waterfalls.
2. Floating de-icers
3. Install an air bubbler (an air compressor with tubing and air stone (diffuser))
4. Solar options such as Styrofoam blocks, passive solar heat from rocks and other radiant materials
5. Melt the ice with hot water several times each day
With all of these options, you must consider the cost of purchase, cost of operation, maintenance and effectiveness in
keeping the ice-free hole during the worse of your winter weather. I always remind my customers that no one system is full
proof. It is best to implement more than one to ensure success. It is also best to not have all of your options reliant on electrical
power to operate. Take extra care, especially if your home is prone to power outages. My favorite options are air bubblers. I
recommend using them all year long. But in the winter they are even more effective when used in conjunction with water
pumps or floating de-icers. Keep in mind that some devices must be reset or turned back on after power is shut off. This is
especially true with de-icers that are turned on by internal thermometers. They activate when the water temperature drops
below 50 degrees. If the water is colder, and the power is temporally turned off, the heating element may not turn back on
because the thermometer did not register a temperature drop.
Air bubblers can have a small amount of ice form in the air line tubing. This normally occurs where the tubing goes into
the water. Condensation caused by the air v/s water temperature, freezes creating a damning effect that will limit or stop the
flow of air into the pond. Often the pond will be covered in ice and snow for a short time and you do not notice that the air
bubbles have stopped moving in the pond. The compressor is running, but no air is getting into the water. Be sure to check and
see that air is getting from the compressor into the pond water.
Solar options vary and new ones are created every year. Keep in mind that they only work on sunny days. So a stretch
of cloudy days may render them useless.
Melting ice with hot water can prove dangerous, especially when there are icy conditions. I especially worry about my
elderly customers who live alone and may fall with no one to help them. So keep your elderly or disabled pond neighbors in
mind and check on the pond when you stop over to help out or shovel their walk.
SEVENTH: Winterize other pond equipment (like UV’s)
Submerged Bio-filters: These filters function as a pre-filter to your water pump. If you are running your pump over the
winter, you may want to disconnect this filter, especially if you have to clean it more than once per month. If this filter clogs, it
will directly minimize the water circulation in the pond and could damage your pond pump. If this filter is filled with filter foam,
you can remove it and clean it, having it ready for next spring. Make sure your pump has an intake that will prevent dirt, debris
or animal life from being sucked up into the pump. If you do not have an alternate intake, then remove the filter foam, but use
the empty filter as an intake. Make sure to watch the water flow and keep the intake (filter) clean all winter.
External bio-filters:
These filters may be pressurized or gravity operated units. First look at the manufacturers notes to see if it can be operated in
freezing temperatures. We usually do not take a chance and disconnect these filters unless they are definitely ok to run over the
winter. Filterfalls can usually operate over the winter as long as the water continues to flow and the waterfall is constructed so
as to not shift from freezing weather. If you disconnect these filters from the pump, you can move the hose feeding the filter to
the edge of the pond to complete the circulation. You can disconnect the filter from the plumbing and move it into a waterproof
and/or frost free area. Make sure you clean it out 100% before storing it.
What to do with bio-media:
If you have bio-balls, strand, lava-rock, spears or larger media to grow beneficial bacteria you can remove them from the filter
and place the bio-media in mesh bags. Place the bag under the waterfall or in the deepest area of the pond, preferably near an
air source (like a bubbler). This will keep the beneficial bacteria alive over the winter. Many forms of bacteria go dormant in cold
water; other types grow and continue to filter the pond. Be sure to install a fall bacteria to the pond to increase these cold
water varieties.
Ultra-Violet Sterilizers or clarifiers:
It does not matter if the unit is submerged or external of the pond, it must be removed, taken off-line and stored for the winter.
If you have UV bulbs in a filter or skimmer, you plan on operating for the winter; you have to remove the bulbs, crystals and
transformers. All components should be cleaned with a NON-Abrasive pad and wrapped in bubble wrap or some other form of
protecting material. If your bulb is more than 2 years old, or has been used for more than 12 operating months, it will need to be
replaced, even if it still lights up. Just because it glows does not mean it is operating at its designed strength. Be sure to cap or
move the ends of the tubing the UV is connected to so it does not cause leaks.
Water Pumps:
Submerged water pumps can remain in the pond water even if they are not used. Be sure to not let the water freeze in or
around the pump, this can cause cracking. Water pump seals tend to hold up better when kept wet. Always follow
manufactures instructions for cold weather care and operation!!!
External water pumps can have a pre-filter basket. The big problem with these pumps is that they remain in operation and that
the water level to the intake stays constant. It is common for the water level to drop below the pump intake (especially when in
a skimmer) and the pump runs dry. This can size the pump and void the warranty. If the power shuts off, make sure water does
not sit in the pump or fittings and be allowed to freeze. This will crack fittings or the pump itself.
Other ideas to keep my pond healthy all winter….
NATURAL PONDS are usually spring or stream fed, this will usually oxygenate and circulate the water effectively.
If you are concerned that the source of water will not be adequate, then consider one of the following options. For CLOSED
RECIRCULATING systems you must choose from one of the following options to assure your fish survive the winter.
a) Install an air pump or "bubbler" to your pond. This is a small external air compressor. It pushes air through a 1/4" dia.
air tube attached to the pump and extended into the water. An air stone or diffuser is connected at the end and placed in the
water to break up the flow of air, thus increasing the absorption rate into the water. The bubbles will help to keep a hole open
in the ice should the pond begin to freeze. This hole is important to allow gases in the water to exchange with the atmosphere.
Be sure the air pump is kept dry and off the wet ground. A couple of ways to protect it are to place it on blocks of wood, and
under a shrub or garden ornament. Another is to place the air pump on top of an inverted flowerpot with another larger pot
covering both pump and bottom pot. Run the power cord and air lines out from the drain holes of the top pot. Be sure that any
container used allows air circulation so that the pump does not overheat. You can run more than one airline from one air pump.
If you already have a pump, check the line and air stone for holes and general condition. If you wish to add other lines or replace
equipment, we can furnish the necessary supplies and knowledge.
b) Continue to operate your waterfall or feature 24 hours a day. Even if the water freezes on the falls, it will provide
movement and breaking up of the water flow. This releases gases, allows the UV rays of the sun to kill bacteria, and oxygenates
the water entering the pond. This will usually keep a hole in the ice at the bottom of the falls. Be careful that ice dams do not
form on the waterfall. This could lead to water leaking from the pond.
c) Install a de-icer to keep a hole in the ice. The de-icers we sell are thermostatically controlled to turn on only when the
water temperature drops below 38 degrees. This will maintain a hole in the ice but will not artificially elevate the water
temperature enough to disturb the fish or plants dormancy. Place this unit over the deepest or sunniest end of the pond (if the
15' cord will reach) BEFORE the water temperature gets below 40 degrees. If you have a liner, ABS, or fiberglass pond, you should
purchase a guard to prevent the heating element from coming in contact with the liner.
We suggest that if using a de-icer, a bubbler is also used to infuse air into the water and to circulate it towards the hole
created by the de-icer. Any combination of equipment will increase the survival rate of the fish and plants. The primary
drawback to utilizing electrical equipment is that the power could be shut off due to a blackout or freezing electrical lines.
Should this occur, Do Not attempt to break a hole in the ice. Once electric power is re-established use a heater to melt through
the ice, pour hot water on the frozen air tube, saw a hole in the ice with an ice fishing saw or battery operated drill. If you pound
on the ice, you may shock the fish to death or do damage to the structure of the pond. Use any electrical equipment cautiously
around water. Note: You should inspect all electrical outlets. A GFI (ground fault interrupter) outlet should be used in all areas
exposed to weather. Please consult an electrician if you have concerns or questions about your electrical source.
Q &A: Commonly Asked Questions & Answers
Q. Do Fish sleep during the winter?
A.
Yes, but they do wake up everyday! Just like you and me. When the water temperature reaches the low 50's, the fish’s
activity level will drastically decrease. When fish die over the winter in a pond with a frozen surface, it is generally not the
freezing that kills them; it is the lack of oxygen. Suffocation and or stress from poor water quality cause their demise. Their
metabolism, circulation, and respiration slow to rates almost undetected by the human eye. They appear to be suspended
motionless within their watery home. In fact, they will move slowly within the pond from cold water to warmer water during the
day. Fish can survive a complete freezing over of the pond as long as the water is well oxygenated and does not have high levels
of organic matter to contaminate or displace the oxygen in the water.
Yes, It is common for some varieties of fish to spawn during the early fall season. The eggs which do not hatch before frost will
usually survive the winter and hatch during spring thaw, or be consumed by the hungry pond inhabitants.
Q. Where do the Frogs go for winter?
A.
FROGS, TURTLES, CRAYFISH, TADPOLES, and SNAILS will survive the winter in a couple of ways. Adult frogs, turtles,
and crayfish may leave the pond and burrow in the ground near the pond, usually in an earthen embankment, under a bush or
another protected place. Young frogs, tadpoles, snails, and crayfish will find a secure place to sleep in a flowerpot, in mud or
leaves in the bottom of the pond or in a rock wall. Most amphibians are capable of absorbing oxygen through their skin and
some have gills to extract oxygen from water as well as lungs to breathe air. Be careful not to step on, dig up or discard any of
these friends while performing maintenance in the pond or flowerbeds around the pond
Q. Do I feed my fish more or less in the fall?
A. The fish will soon leave food uneaten; this is your cue to stop feeding. While the temperatures are above 55, your pond fish
have one primary concern right now, and that is to eat as much as they can to store body fat to get them through their winter
hibernation. You will see them eating everything in sight, grooming the pond and devouring plants and food you provide. You
should increase the amount of food you give them to help out. Keep in mind, a good rule-of-thumb for feeding is: only feed what
the fish will completely consume in 5 minutes or less. It is better to feed them small portions several times a day than to feed one
large meal each day. All uneaten food will swell with water and sink, polluting the pond. Some enthusiasts change their fish diet
to rice, cheerios, frozen shrimp or bloodworms in the spring and fall. Cereals and rice are high in carbohydrates and do not
provide enough protein for the fish to stay healthy over the winter. We recommend you feed a diet that is easily digested and
does not leave oil or organic residue in the water. Your fish will also welcome natural food such as night crawlers and live
crickets.
Q. What should I do with the plants and fish if my pond is less than 18" deep?
A.
If you use a de-icer to keep the pond surface from freezing, your plants and fish will have a better chance of survival.
Some customers bring their fish indoors and enjoy them in an aquarium during winter. Plants can be stored in a garage or
basement that does not freeze and is not heated like your house. Remember, hardy or perennial plants require dormancy to
produce flowers in season. Examples would be Water Lilies, Lotus, Iris, Canna, Pickerel Rush, Cattails, and Rushes. Tender
Perennial, such as Anacharis, Cabomba, Parrot Feather, Floating Heart and Water Poppy may survive if given adequate insulation
or protection. Some bog plants can be planted in the earth, mulched with leaves and they will survive a cold winter. Winter
hardy plants require the insulation that water 24" or deeper provides. Some edible plants such as Water Chestnuts may be
consumed without leaving any fruit to replant for next year.
Q. Should I refill the pond with water in winter?
A.
YES!!! Winter water evaporation can be more extreme than summer evaporation. Cold dry air will absorb water readily.
If the pond freezes over, you will develop a space between the suspended ice and water level. Customers have had their entire
pond drain out and never new it. Be sure to place your water pump 6-10” off the bottom of the pond, to ensure that the fish and
plants always have some water. Also, ALWAYS use water conditioner when adding water, even in the winter. Check your water
level every couple of days throughout the winter and continue water testing for pH, ammonia and nitrite.
Q. Should I use any parasite or bacteria medications in the fall or winter?
A.
Some hobbyist use salt and parasite medications as a preventative measure each spring and fall. You must be careful using pr
slime coat in the fall or winter. This slime coat acts as an insulation and covering for the fish. Using medicated food can be useful if
stressed. This will provide antibiotics directly to the fish, not in the water. It is only helpful while the fish are eating.
We hope that you have enjoyed your water garden all summer long. Winter is a time for the pond to rest and for you to reflect and
plan for spring. Living in the northeast means ice and cold temperatures. The fish in your pond are acclimated to these
conditions and require them for reproduction. The pond may freeze and thaw in frequent cycles, allow this to happen naturally.
Do not feed the fish once the water freezes, even if it should thaw. The fish will usually not eat once they begin hibernation. The
food you would give them will pollute the water.
We look forward to seeing you before winter, and, as always, feel free to call if you have any questions or concerns.
We have the equipment and supplies you need to 'winter ready' your pond. We will remain open all year and, as we say, we’re
only a phone call away. Thank you for your continued patronage! We hope you have a happy and healthy
winter. Your friends at, Stephens Aquatic Services, Inc.
Go Green, save a tree SAS no longer mails newsletters automatically. Sending and
storing this in you computer instead of printing it and sending by mail, will save thousands of trees. Save this on
your PC and share copies with your email friends. Copyright 2010 by Pamela J. Stephens Schlett, Printed by Stephens Aquatic Services, Inc. All rights
reserved. This is a private publication for Stephens Garden Creations, Inc. Customers only. No part of this publication may be reproduced, stored in a retrieval system or transmitted, in any
form or by any means, electronic, mechanical, photocopying, recording or otherwise, without the prior written permission of P amela J. Stephens Schlett, Author
Take time to smell the roses in your garden and count the tadpoles in your pond….
Don’t forget to order a
GIFT CERTIFICATE for the
pond
lover’s in your family. All certificates are custom printed for any money amount you want. Call the
business office at 610-388-3090 ext 0 to have one sent to you before the holidays, so stop in to
purchase in the store.