Jo i n u s f o r a f a s c i n a t i n g j o u r n e y t h r o u g h S a n Fr a n c i s c o’s o l d No r t h Wa t e r f r o n t .
Yo u w i l l r e l i v e i t s h i s t o r y d u r i n g t h e t i m e s o f t h e Na t i v e A m e r i c a n s , t h e Sp a n i s h a n d
Me x i c a n s e t t l e r s , a n d t h e e a r l y s t a t e h o o d o f C a l i f o r n i a . E x p e r i e n c e t h e w a t e r f r o n t ’s
e v o l u t i o n i n t o a d y n a m i c n e i g h b o r h o o d , i t s e v e n t u a l d e t e r i o r a t i o n a f t e r Wo r l d Wa r I I , a n d
t h e r e v i t a l i z a t i o n t h a t c o n t i n u e s t o d a y.
Us e t h e e n c l o s e d m a p a n d w a l k i n g t o u r t o w i t n e s s f i r s t h a n d a m e t h o d i c a l , p r i v a t e
r e s t o r a t i o n p r o c e s s t h a t s t a r t e d i n 1 9 6 0 a n d c o n t i n u e s t o t h i s d a y. It h a s c r e a t e d
o n e o f S a n Fr a n c i s c o’s m o s t d e s i r a b l e c o m m e r c i a l a n d r e s i d e n t i a l n e i g h b o r h o o d s .
Yo u w i l l e n j o y a w a l k i n g t o u r t h r o u g h a n u r b a n “p r e s e r v a t i o n p a r a d i s e . ”
S i n c e r e l y,
Ron Kaufman
H I S TO RY
(1) T H E G R O W T H
OF THE
OF THE
O L D N O R T H WA T E R F R O N T
N O R T H WAT E R F R O N T I N
THE MID-NINETEENTH
C E N T U R Y.
F o r m o s t S a n F r a n c i s c a n s , t h e O l d N o r t h Wa t e r f r o n t i s n o t a n a r e a t h a t s t i r s m a n y m e m o r i e s . M o s t
This map shows how landfill
N o r t h Wa t e r f r o n t , b u t t h i s w a s n o t a l w a y s t h e c a s e . We r e y o u t o a s k f o r d i r e c t i o n s t o F i s h e r m a n ’s
gradually expanded the district.
W h a r f i n t h e l a t e n i n e t e e n t h c e n t u r y, y o u w o u l d b e d i r e c t e d t o t h e F i l b e r t S t r e e t d o c k , n i c k n a m e d
The buildings indicated are
“ I t a l y H a r b o r.” T h e r e y o u w o u l d f i n d s m a l l b o a t s c a l l e d f a l u c c a s w i t h t r i a n g u l a r s a i l s a n d , n e a r b y,
historic warehouses, many of
fishermen mending nets and talking with each other in their Genoese dialects. The area from Bay
which were originally
S t r e e t t o B r o a d w a y ( s e e m a p o p p o s i t e ) f o r m s w h a t i s k n o w n a s t h e O l d N o r t h Wa t e r f r o n t , a n a r e a
constructed on the water’s edge.
rich in history but mostly unknown to the general public.
c a n ’ t e v e n a c c u r a t e l y p l a c e i t s l o c a t i o n , c o n f u s i n g i t w i t h t h e m o r e f a m o u s F i s h e r m a n ’s W h a r f a
s h o r t d i s t a n c e a w a y. F i s h e r m a n ’s W h a r f a n d t h e a d j a c e n t p i e r s a r e c e r t a i n l y p a r t o f t h e m o d e r n
2
P e r h a p s m o s t p e o p l e a r e u n f a m i l i a r w i t h t h i s d i s t r i c t b e c a u s e t h e O l d N o r t h Wa t e r f r o n t ’s s t o r y h a s
n e v e r b e e n f u l l y t o l d . I t i s a r a t h e r s m a l l a r e a , l e s s t h a n h a l f a s q u a r e m i l e i n s i z e ; h o w e v e r, i t
w o u l d n o t b e a s t r e t c h t o s a y t h a t i t w a s c r i t i c a l t o m u c h o f o u r c i t y ’s h i s t o r y. I t w a s h e r e t h a t
countless generations of Native Americans pulled up their reed boats to dry in the sun. It was at
t h e N o r t h Wa t e r f r o n t t h a t C a p t a i n M o n t g o m e r y r o w e d a s h o r e w i t h t h e M a r i n e s t o c l a i m S a n
Francisco for the United States, and where many of the ships of the Gold Rush docked, unloading
the people who triggered the first population explosion for both San Francisco and California. It
was here that the first men were shanghaied, long before the Barbary Coast even existed. It was
a t t h e N o r t h Wa t e r f r o n t t h a t t h e C o m m i t t e e o f Vi g i l a n c e “ a r r e s t e d ” t h e i r f i r s t v i c t i m s . I t w a s h e r e ,
a t a b o a r d i n g h o u s e o n S a n s o m e a n d L o m b a r d , t h a t S a n F r a n c i s c o ’s n o t o r i o u s c i t y b o s s , A b e R u e f ,
received his first lesson in street politics. It was here that the naval ships under the command of
Lieutenant Frederick Freeman brought the men and supplies that saved San Francisco from being
completely destroyed by the firestorm that raged after the great earthquake of 1906. And it was
here in 1927, at a laboratory only a few blocks from the wharves, that Philo T. Farnsworth invented
t e l e v i s i o n . T h e N o r t h Wa t e r f r o n t a l s o w i t n e s s e d t h e l a r g e s t l a b o r s t r i k e i n t h e h i s t o r y o f t h e
We s t e r n U n i t e d S t a t e s , o n e t h a t b r o u g h t t h e c i t y t o a v i r t u a l s t a n d s t i l l i n 1 9 3 4 . F i n a l l y, i t i s t h e
(2) G R E E N S T R E E T
p l a c e w h e r e s o m e o f S a n F r a n c i s c o ’s o l d e s t b u i l d i n g s a r e t o b e f o u n d , a n d w h e r e t h e c i t y ’s m o s t
PIER
successful and enlightened private redevelopment program was completed. Despite all this, its
IN THE
18 6 0 S .
The two steam engines
own individual history has yet to be written.
shown on each side of the
pier pulled ropes attached
T h e s t o r y o f t h e N o r t h Wa t e r f r o n t c a n n o t b e a d e q u a t e l y t o l d u n l e s s a g e n e r a l k n o w l e d g e o f S a n
to pulleys on the ship’s
F r a n c i s c o ’s o w n h i s t o r y i s u n d e r s t o o d . T h e t w o a r e i n e x t r i c a b l y w o v e n t o g e t h e r, a n d e a c h c a n n o t
rigging to lift heavy cargo
e x i s t w i t h o u t t h e o t h e r. We s h a l l s t a r t a t t h e b e g i n n i n g .
and bring it onto the wharf.
4
L O M B A R D S T R E E T,
BETWEEN
SANSOME
AND
B AT T E RY
As we walk east on Lombard, toward Battery at its terminus at the Embarcadero, you will see to your left a large gray
building housing several businesses on the ground level. It is the site of the former Beltline Railroad Locomotive
Roundhouse. The current building is fairly modern, but designed in the style popular in the 1920s so it would complement
t h e o l d e r s t r u c t u r e s o f t h e d i s t r i c t . T h e B e l t l i n e R a i l r o a d o n c e r a n s e v e n t y m i l e s o f r a i l s t h r o u g h o u t S a n F r a n c i s c o ’s
h a r b o r s y s t e m a n d c a r r i e d c o u n t l e s s t o n s o f c a r g o t o o r f r o m t h e f r e i g h t e r s t h a t d o c k e d a l o n g t h e c i t y ’s e a s t e r n s h o r e ( m o r e
on the Beltline shortly).
To your right, just past the garage, is the One Lombard building, built in 1895. It was formerly the Merchants’ Ice and Cold
Storage Company (see following pages). While it was only one of the three facilities owned by Merchants’ Ice on the North
Waterfront (two others were west of Sansome Street), it was certainly the company’s most magnificent building, and they
eventually located their headquarters and offices here. The main entrance has an arch built from the bricks of the much
older adjacent building that preceded it. The entrance area behind it was where Merchants’ had their ice cream works (if
you have ice, why not make ice cream?) One Lombard was briefly a box and carton factory before Merchants’ Ice
purchased the premises shortly after 1900. It now houses the offices of the Ron Kaufman Companies, whose owner was a
leading figure in the redevelopment and economic revival of the North Waterfront. Let us turn left at the intersection, and
walk northwest on Embarcadero.
(33) Map detail.
83
ONE LOMBARD
For merly Merchants’ Ice and Cold Storage / The S.F. Bay Club
Building No. 8 on the map
A s l a n d f i l l s w e r e p l a n n e d t o p u s h t h e w h a r v e s o n t h e e a s t e r n s i d e o f t h e N o r t h Wa t e r f r o n t a w a y
from the previously dockside warehouses, and as those warehouses became creaky with age and
more outdated in design, a partial redevelopment of sorts took place in the 1890s and early twentieth
c e n t u r y. I t w a s a t t h i s t i m e t h a t m a n y o f t h e o l d e r w a r e h o u s e s a n d b u i l d i n g s , p a r t i c u l a r l y t h o s e
constructed of wood or sandstone masonry, were torn down and replaced with more modern structures.
It was during this period that the Italian Swiss Colony and W.P. Fuller warehouses were built, as well
a s t h e g r e a t i c e h o u s e s o f t h e N o r t h Wa t e r f r o n t : N a t i o n a l I c e a n d C o l d S t o r a g e o n U n i o n S t r e e t a n d
Merchants’ Ice and Cold Storage on Lombard Street. Of these two, the first to be constructed—and
the first in architectural beauty—was the Merchants’ building, built in the mid-1890s.
The demand for ice was especially critical at the major ports, where the long-range shipping of
previously perishable meat and produce was now possible. Quick to address that need, Charles
(34) One Lombard. Once
Swanson and Henry Westphal founded the Merchants’ Ice and Cold Storage Company in the early
housing a factory and the
1890s in San Francisco. Their offices were initially on Clay Street, and their first warehouse was on
headquarters of Merchants Ice
Davis Street. From the beginning, both Swanson and Westphal had ambitious plans for the North
and Cold Storage, it is now
Waterfront, and soon opened a major factory/warehouse across Sansome Street, where the Levi’s Plaza
an office building and home
Market and the 101 Lombard condominiums now are. A short time later, they bought the One Lombard
to several San Francisco
premises, and eventually moved their offices there as well.
businesses and foundations.
85
(35) This illustration shows a part of the Old North
Waterfront, just a few years into the Gold Rush. Flint’s
(37) In this shot taken in 1920, we are looking east on Lombard
Street and can view part of its intersection with Sansome.
warehouse is in the lower right foreground, near where the
One Lombard is in the rear, and a bit of the older Merchants’ Ice
Italian Swiss Colony warehouse would later stand. Landfill
and Cold Storage buildings are in the right foreground, on this
would eventually expand the shoreline just beyond Flint’s,
side of Sansome. The left and center of the photograph shows us
and here the Greenwich Dock warehouse would be built,
replaced in 1895 by the One Lombard building.
the old Seawall warehouse building, with the ancient original
structure in the background. In the foreground is 1620
Montgomery, the former Del Monte Milling building. The Seawall
warehouse was one of the oldest existing warehouses in San
Francisco until its demolition in the 1970s.
(36) In this 1864 photograph we see the massive Greenwich Dock
warehouse in center frame. Sansome Street runs across its front.
(38) In the lower left photograph from 1950, we see the
Merchants’ Ice and Cold Storage building (One Lombard) with
Approximately thirty years later, the far side of the Greenwich Dock
its warehouse in the foreground, the building that replaced
warehouse would be replaced by the One Lombard building, which
the Greenwich Dock facility decades earlier. In a few years,
would use as its adjacent warehouse the foreground section of the
this warehouse would itself be replaced by the building now
Greenwich Dock structure. The latter would be replaced by a more
used by the Bay Club.
modern warehouse, then another in the 1950s, this last destined
to serve the future Bay Club.
(39) The lower right photo is the Sansome Street facade of
the original Seawall warehouse.
W h i l e t h e O n e L o m b a r d b u i l d i n g w a s n o t d e s i g n e d b y a m a j o r a r c h i t e c t l i k e B u r n h a m o r P o l k ( t h e n a m e o f t h e b u i l d i n g ’s
S o o n a f t e r t h e b l o c k w a s a c q u i r e d t w o y o u n g m e n , J o h n M e l i n a n d J a m e s G e r b e r, a p p r o a c h e d K a u f m a n w i t h a w e l l - c r a f t e d
a r c h i t e c t i s l o s t t o u s ) , i t c a n n e v e r t h e l e s s h o l d i t s o w n a g a i n s t t h e i r s i m i l a r w o r k i n S a n F r a n c i s c o , l i k e t h e W. P. F u l l e r
b u s i n e s s p l a n t o c r e a t e a q u a l i t y f i t n e s s c e n t e r. T h e p l a n w o u l d d e v e l o p i n t o t h e B a y C l u b , w h i c h n o w o c c u p i e s t h e f o r m e r
G l a s s w a r e h o u s e . S t i l l , t h e i n e f f i c i e n c y o f i t s m u l t i - s t o r y d e s i g n s l o w l y b e c a m e a p p a r e n t b y t h e m i d - t w e n t i e t h c e n t u r y. B y
f r e e z e r a n d m u c h o f t h e w a r e h o u s e b u i l d i n g . I t c e l e b r a t e d i t s t w e n t y - f i f t h a n n i v e r s a r y a t t h e N o r t h Wa t e r f r o n t i n 2 0 0 2 .
the 1970s, it was an inescapable fact.
U n d e r G e r b e r ’s l e a d e r s h i p , i t i s n o w u n d e r g o i n g a n a m b i t i o u s e x p a n s i o n o f t h e f a c i l i t i e s t o p o s i t i o n t h e B a y C l u b f o r “ t h e
n e x t t w e n t y - f i v e y e a r s .” T h e O n e L o m b a r d b u i l d i n g h a s a t t r a c t e d m a n y f i n e t e n a n t s , i n c l u d i n g H . O . K . A r c h i t e c t s a n d F o o t e
The development of the Merchants’ Ice and Cold Storage block was pursued by Ron Kaufman for 13 years. In 1975 the new
C o n e B e l d i n g A d v e r t i s i n g . T h e p r e s e n t o c c u p a n t s a r e We s t e r n A t h l e t i c C l u b s ( p a r e n t c o m p a n y o f t h e B a y C l u b ) ,
owners of Merchants agreed to sell, and Kaufman presented a proposal for its renovation and conversion to his partners—
InterPacific, Nathan Roth, D.D.S., the Gerson Bakar Foundation, the Mosaic Fund, and numerous other charitable foundations,
J o h n M c G u i r e , J a m e s K e l s o a n d To m P l a n t . T h e c o n c e p t w a s f o r a t o t a l r e c o n s t r u c t i o n a n d r e d e s i g n o f t h e O n e L o m b a r d
many of which were created by the descendants of Levi Strauss. The Ron Kaufman Companies and the Kaufman Management
b u i l d i n g ’s i n t e r i o r t o a c c o m m o d a t e o f f i c e s . T h e t w o f r e e s t a n d i n g w a l l s o n S a n s o m e a n d L o m b a r d ( r e m a i n s o f t h e e a r l i e r
Corporation are headquartered here as well. Solidly built, and sporting large, beautifully-arching windows, it is one of the
w a r e h o u s e ) p o s e d a d a n g e r, a n d w o u l d b e d e m o l i s h e d t o m a k e w a y f o r a p a r k i n g g a r a g e c o n n e c t e d t o t h e o f f i c e b u i l d i n g .
c r o w n j e w e l s o f S a n F r a n c i s c o ’s o l d e r h i s t o r i c b u i l d i n g s .
The massive freezer plant and warehouse on the south side of the block could be converted to meet other needs.
WALKING NORTHWEST
Street Wise:
Lombard Street. Many local people think that Lombard Street was named
by an Italian resident in honor of the region of Italy called Lombardy
( L o m b a r d i a ) . H o w e v e r, l i k e S a n s o m e , L o m b a r d i s n a m e d a f t e r a s t r e e t i n
a n o t h e r c i t y. I n t h i s c a s e , i t w a s n a m e d f o r t h e L o m b a r d S t r e e t o f N e w
Yo r k , w h i c h w a s l o c a t e d i n o n e o f t h a t c i t y ’ s e a r l y n i n e t e e n t h c e n t u r y
f i n a n c i a l d i s t r i c t s. T h e n a m e o f N e w Yo r k ’ s L o m b a r d S t r e e t h a s c h a n g e d a
couple times over the last hundred and f ifty years and is now largely
f o r g o t t e n . S a n F r a n c i s c o ’ s L o m b a r d S t r e e t r e m a i n s.
ON THE
EMBARCADERO,
PASSING
LOMBARD
As you walk along the Embarcadero, you will quickly encounter a small building just past the newer one on Lombard. It is
the old “sandhouse” for the Beltline Railway (sand was spread on railroad tracks to give them traction if they were slick
from rain or damp fog). Past the sandhouse is an old watering trough for the steam locomotives that once operated here.
On the far side of the trough is the Beltline Roundhouse itself, where you will see the old rail lines still leading to the
various numbered garages within the building. Here the locomotives would be serviced and/or led to a huge, balanced
turnstile that rotated them so they could head out the same way they came in.
As the watering trough makes evident, the Beltline ran old steam locomotives for the first fifty or so years of its existence.
Diesel-powered locomotives replaced them in the late 1940s and early 1950s. As more shipping businesses moved to
Oakland, the need for the Beltline trains dwindled. Surprisingly, a few still continued to be operated until the early eighties.
89
90
E x c e r p t f r o m R o n K a u f m a n’s b o o k T h e O l d No r t h Wa t e r f r o n t .
Av a i l a b l e a t :
W i l l i a m St o u t A r c h i t e c t u r a l B o o k s
8 0 4 Mo n t g o m e r y St r e e t
S a n Fr a n c i s c o , C A 9 4 1 3 3
415.391.6757
Or on-line at:
w w w. s t o u t b o o k s . c o m