POORMANPROPS – SEPTEMBER 24th Make-N-Take
CREEPY CANDLES
Based Off http://www.instructables.com/id/PVC-Candles/
Tools:
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Hack saw or miter saw or PVC cutters (that can cut 1 ½ PVC)
Hot glue gun
Materials:
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1 ½ inch white PVC pipe
LED or standard candle tea light
Hot Glue
Foam pipe insulation
White spray paint
Steps:
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The first step is to cut the PVC to the size of your candle(s).
Spray painting the PVC White or use sandpaper or acetone to remove and
printing on the PVC pipe.
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Tips:
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If you're using a miter saw which allows for angle cuts, cutting one end at an
angle will add a nice effect.
The miter saw also allows you quickly cut a lot of candles like I wanted. I
prefer to do things in bulk. One candle is nice, but 60+ is better.
Dab Method:
This is one option for how to apply the "wax" to your candle.
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Dab the hot glue down the side candle to create the dripping wax starting
from the top.
Use various lengths to create a realistic effect.
Drip Method:
Another method of applying is to use large drips. Apply a large glob of hot glue at
the top of the PVC and allow it to drip down the side.
Continue to add more layers until you are happy with the look. Be sure to get
some around the top of the candle as well.
Caution: When putting was on the top, try not to get it inside the PVC, as then
your tea light might not fit. If you do get some down the inside (like in photos
here), you'll have to remove it. It comes off pretty easy, but you may need to use
a knife to cut it off
The final step is to add the tea light to your candle.
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Cut a 1” piece of the foam pipe insulation and stuff this inside the PVC for the
LED tea light to sit on.
Place an LED tea light inside the PVC.
Variations:
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Painting: You can paint the candle and use various aging techniques to
enhance the look of the candle. However, this is only really needed if they are
going to be in a lighted area. In the dark, you cannot tell if it has been painted
or not.
Use bigger PVC: You can use larger diameter PVC (etc 2 ½) to create larger
candles. Cut and use a piece of white foam in place of the foam pipe
insulation to hold the tea light.
Groups: Before adding the “wax”, glue three different size PVC pieces
together to go make a grouping. You can use the hot glue or PVC cement to
do this.
Hard-wire LED: If you make a lot of candles and don't want to deal with
turning them all off/on, you can use flickering LEDs instead of the tea lights.
This will allow you to wire them all up together.
MILK JUG SKULLS
Based off https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=VWlj5rYsFg4
Materials:
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1 Gallon plastic milk jug.
Full size skull, made of cement, ceramic, or even plaster.
Heat Gun
Spray water bottle.
Scissors and/or knife.
Steps:
1. Cut out handle and lid section of milk jug.
2. Place milk jug over skeleton head. It may require some additional
cuts or extending cuts to get plastic on. Different manufacturers of
the skulls and jugs cause this, due to their manufacturing process.
You should also remove the label, it could catch fire during heat gun
use.
3. Using the heat gun, start slowly heating the face area. It is good to
start with the face area for it will require the most detail. Do not get
the gun to close to the plastic. You can burn right through the plastic.
Once you get a certain area to your liking, spray with the water to
help lock the plastic in that position. If you do not do this the plastic
could stretch back out from its current look, when cooling.
As shown below in the picture, we chose to burn out the eyes in this
skull. Keep in mind that this can only be done if the skull you are
using for your mold has no eyes in it. You could also choose to cut
out the eyes, after you are done, with a knife.
4. Proceed to melt all the surrounding areas of the head. Keep in mind
that you can still burn through the plastic, so, watch what you are
doing. Also, keep using the water to help lock the plastic into place.
5. Now to remove the skull, this may take some special skills. I have
found that at times it will just stretch right off. Other times I need to
cut the top cut a little longer towards the front of the face to get it off.
You will have to judge this depending on how your plastic melted.
FLICKER CIRCUIT
Based Off http://halloweenpropmaster.com/u-build-it3.htm
Materials:
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FS-2 Flourescent Starter
Flourescent Starter Socket
Wire Cutters
Crimping terminals
Crimpers
Wire Strippers
Extension cord
Heat shrink tubing
Heat gun or lighter.
Steps:
1. Close to the plug in end of your extension cord, cut a slit down the center,
between the two wires. Note that we are using a 2-wire extension cord for
this. If you are using a 3-wire, you would need to cut all wires.
2. Pull apart the two wires exposing roughly 4 inches of area. Then cut one of
the wires. You can now use the strippers and cut back the wire on both cut
sides of the wire. You need to expose roughly a ¼” of wire, as shown on
the left wire below.
3. Take your starter base and cut back the supplied wires to about 1” from
the socket itself and expose those wires as well. The picture below shows
roughly 5” of wire, we will not need that much. Also, note that sockets
come in a variety of different colors and shapes.
4. Now we need to use the crimpers and the crimping terminals to connect
the wires together. At this point you can crimp the extension cord side of
the wires. Don’t forget to slide on your heat shrink tubing, so we can cover
the crimping later.
Now crimp on the socket side of the wiring. Note, there is no right or wrong
way to do this. As long as it is crimped so the socket is placed in line with
the extension cord wire, you are good. The picture below is showing what
we are doing.
Note: In the picture, it is showing an optional fuse in line. This is an
optional step. Since we are dealing with 110VAC power, some believe that
you need a fuse in there in case the FS-2 blows, etc. This is not true. If the
FS-2 gets over heated, it just stops working. When this occurs the FS-2 will
either stay open or closed, meaning your lights will be always on or always
off. Just turn off circuit to let cool. This could also occur if you have to
many watts on the circuit.
5. Now that you have your wires crimped we can now slide the heat shrink
over the connectors and using the heat gun, melt the heat tape. This will
create a cover over the connector so someone does not get shocked if
they grab the wires.
6. As an optional step, some like to cover the entire wiring area with electrical
tape. This is up to you. I have found that as long as you have your device
where it CAN NOT GET WET, you should have no problem with it. Just do
not cover the FS-2. Just in case it goes bad, you would need to replace the
FS-2.
7. Note that this circuit is designed to be used with a 50 watt or lower bulb or
a string of lights that draw no more than the 50 watts of power. Also, this
device is not water proof or even water resistant. You would need to place
this device in a Tupperware box, or something like this, to use outside in
the elements.
CREEPY SIGNS
Materials:
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Wood, cut to desired size.
Stencils of your favorite Halloween Saying.
Optional black spray paint
Paint brushes
Masking tape
Various other color paints.
Optional clear coat paint.
Steps:
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Cut wood to desired size.
Spray paint the wood black if you desire. Some like the wood look instead.
Tape your stencil in place on your piece of wood.
Using brushes, paint the stencil onto your piece of wood, and remove
stencil.
5. Let paint dry and then spray clear coat on top of paint if desired.