At the southern apex of Africa, Cape Town’s False Bay is home to one of the planet’s largest gatherings of big marine predators. What brings them all here? - TEXT AND PHOTOS BY CHRIS & MONIQUE FALLOWS - LOCATION South Africa’s False Bay was named by early mariners who had expected to sail into Table Bay on the other side of the Cape Peninsula but instead found themselves further south. The 1,000 square kilometre inlet straddles the cool Benguela and warmer Agulhas currents, resulting in water temperatures that fluctuate between 12 and 23°C, one of the widest ranges known to occur globally. Powerful winds and upwellings churn nutrients in the water, feeding seasonal algal blooms, which sustain huge populations of bait fish (such as sardines, anchovies, mullet and maasbankers). These lure game fish, such as kabeljou, elf, leervis and yellowtail, which in turn attract the large top predators that the Bay is famous for. This elite ‘Bite Club’ include a impressive variety of sharks - including the infamous great white - as well as orcas, fur seals and several species of dolphins and whales. PHOTOGRAPHY In addition to being one of the leading authorities on Great White shark behaviour, Chris Fallows is a professional wildlife photographer. His book ‘Great White, The Majesty of Sharks’, chronicles his journey from a penniless shark enthusiast to his discovery of “flying” great whites in 1996. False Bay truly is South Africa’s Serengeti, where the ocean’s greatest predators still rule the waters and the abundant shoals of prey live their precarious lives beneath the waves. GREAT WHITE SHARK Carcharodon carcharias WEIGHT (grown): 2,500 kg LENGTH: more than 6 m TOP SPEED: 50 km/h GREAT WHITE FLIGHT In 1996, Chris Fallows was the first to document Great White Shark breaching behaviour and to date the apex Shark Expeditions team have recorded over 9350 predatory events in the area. This remarkable predatory onslaught takes place primarily during the South African winter months from May to August, and the regularity of these spectacular bursts of piscine athleticism are unique to Seal Island, False Bay. Why do they only do this here? ‘The clue is in the name’, says Chris. ‘The sharks are patrolling Seal Island in search of inexperienced seal pups, re- cently weaned and returning from their first fishing trips. Over the course of four months, the island’s waters become a staging ground for an epic showdown between predator and prey, hosting between 600 and 800 predation events per season, a figure unparalleled anywhere else on earth. ‘No matter how many times you witness it, the sight of the ocean’s most talked about super predator leaping, sometimes 10 foot clear of the water, leaves you buzzing with excitement and admiration’, says Chris. SHARK VS. SEAL Great white sharks are built for brute force and speed, being eight times as heavy, twice as long and twice as fast as a Cape fur seal. But whilst it appears sharks should have the edge in these deadly dances, the seals are in fact equipped with some pretty spectacular anti predatory senses of their own. Their agility outstrips the shark’s, enabling them to outmanoeuvre their adversary. For a long while Fallows wondered how the seals knew to leap out of the water that split second before the shark breached behind them, even when the water was dirty or it was near dark, thereby taking away any chance that the seal had seen the shark. Then an interesting find came to light and the answer was obvious. Research showed that seals can detect the vortices left by the swimming stroke of a small bait fish 30 seconds after it has passed. Likewise, whenever a great white charges upwards at a seal, it displaces a huge amount of water. This ‘bubble’ of water, similar in hydrodynamics to what a submarine pushes around its bow, triggers an instinctive reflex in seals to quickly change direction, out of the way of the approaching juggernaut. This split-second early warning system is often the difference between life and death, where survival is decided by the narrowest of margins. The use of chum, (basically ground up fish), in the process of attracting sharks has been a hot topic for a long while. Those against the use of chum argue that it causes the sharks to associate humans with food and also conditioned sharks to being fed. “Whilst I cannot comment on all operations”, says Chris, “I can comment on most in South Africa and certainly on our own shark diving business in False Bay. During the course of the roughly 200-220 trips we run each year we use roughly 1000kg of tuna as bait to attract sharks. This equates to an average of 5kg of bait per trip. Most of this tuna is not used as we have a very vigilant crew that have become experts in spotting sharks!” “5kg of bait per day certainly is not going to be enough to keep several 500-1000+kg sharks well fed and make them conditioned to our vessel. In fact quite the contrary, because the baits are purposefully pulled away from the sharks, in many cases they lose interest in our vessel or leave to do more productive activities. If anything, the sharks are becoming negatively conditioned.” “The idea of great white sharks associating humans with a food is, once again, a big stretch. To think that the shark, who sees a piece of fish on a float, cognitively links this piece of fish with a human standing on the boat or divers in a cage is a big ask. Even if it did, does that mean it would go and attack a human every time it saw them? Logically then, every time a shark steals fish from a fisherman the same assumption should hold true.” “Quite simply, chumming or baiting takes many forms in the ocean. You might say that trawlers dumping fish in the ocean and cleaning fish in harbours is no different than chumming carried out by cage-diving boats or a shark research vessels. Of course, the commercial fishing operations that attract sharks do very little to show people the beauty of the great white, nor do they place an emphasis on educating guests about these su- per predators. The days of a fishing boat taking a bunch of tourists out and throwing the shark pieces of horse and dumping blood in the water are long gone. Today for the most part, competition and an ever more educated tourist, have dictated that shark tourism boats up their game and provide a service that matches the magnificence of the animals they are showcasing.” “Quite simply, in South Africa, it is the shark cage diving industry that keeps the sharks alive. Without commercial cage dive operators watching for poaching and adding to the growing wave of proshark supporters by exposing tourists to what the animal behind the myth is really about, the sharks would have no chance.” “As people don’t choose just any doctor to do an operation nor should they choose just any operator to show you an animal as magnificent as the great white shark. Do your homework and find the operator that best fits your needs and conservation ethic.” INSHORE SHARKS In spring, great whites move inshore, looking for smaller sharks and fish. This may be due to the warmer, highly oxygenated water trapped inshore, helping them digest food and save energy. Whatever the reason, and despite their proximity to the beach, the sharks are certainly not scouting for human prey. Nevertheless, it must be considered that rampant fishing by long liners and line fishermen may be pushing great whites to widen their search for prey, thus increasing their chances of coming into contact with humans. It’s a trend that is likely to continue unless measures are taken to reduce fishing pressure on their prey species. With the number of people using the ocean increasing all the time, human interactions with sharks will logically increase. “Chris has kayaked and paddle-boarded with many different great whites and free dived with multiple sharks at a time”, says Monique. “Sharks will not simply rush up and attack you, no matter what form of recreation you pursue. At no stage have any acted aggressively towards him, which clearly shows that they pose relatively little threat. Nevertheless, before others are tempted to try this it must be remembered that Chris is very expereienced and has a good idea of the right conditions to do this under.” SHARK SPOTTING “One summer we heard over our boat’s radio that a large Great white had been sighted in Fish Hoek”, says Monique. “We were only 5 minutes away so we made our way quickly to the scene. In such flat conditions the shark stood out like a sore thumb and we approached for a closer look to see if we could identify the animal. It was quite a sight. The beach had already been cleared by Shark Spotters and the shark was now cruising along Jaggers Walk on the western side of Fish Hoek Bay. People who were walking along Jaggers Walk could clearly see the shark. Watching it gliding along with houses directly above really drove home the fact that we need to be able to co-exist with sharks in our waters.” “The Shark Spotting program is a very proactive way of doing this. There are spotters who sit on the mountain above Fish Hoek and Muizenberg, two areas that sharks patrol frequently. A simple flag system on the beach lets beachgoers know the situation and if a shark should be spotted close to bathing areas, the water is cleared by the use of a siren.” 3 SHARK SIZE When measured relative to a human lifespan, Seals Island’s great whites are still generally ‘teenagers’. The largest are on average 3.5m or 12ft. This means that they are at or near their most athletic, both in design and in energy efficiency. In a nutshell, these are sharks bristling with speed and energy. Young great whites generally feed on fish and larger adults appear to supplement the odd seal with a lot of cetacean scavenging. So Seal Island attracts the right size class of shark. Fallows believes that it is a combination of these factors that dictates the spectacular high speed athletic breach behavior seen around False Bay’s seal Island. Why is shark breaching seen so often at Seal Island but so rarely elsewhere? Based on his observations from great white shark hot spots worldwide, Fallows thinks there are a number of factors at play. 1 THE TOPOGRAPHY The southern terminus on Seal Island is a shallow reef, which the seals use to leave and return to the island. Beyond the reef is deep water where sharks can lurk undetected. The reef structure rises quickly as it approaches the island, so the sharks are forced upwards, racing to the surface in an attempt to ambush their prey before they are seen. Most attacks take place within 500m of the island, with the shark often pursuing a seal all the way to the surface, where its momentum propels it out of the water. PREY SIZE 2 Young Cape Fur Seals weigh up to around 40lbs during the peak predation months and sharks can comfortably strike them at full speed without risk of injury. In the Guadalupe, or the Farallon Islands off the coast of California, elephant seals can weigh hundreds of pounds even when they are young. Hitting one of these seals at speed would probably harm the shark. Also, different seal species employ different feeding and hunting strategies and many do not porpoise (leap clear of the water) with such regularity as the Cape fur seals, which necessitates different hunting strategies for sharks. COMPETITION 4 By mid June, great white shark numbers at Seal Island are peaking. Lots of sharks hanging around optimal hunting areas means lots of competition. So when they see a seal they launch an attack , not necessarily waiting for the perfect time. This means attacks are hit-and-miss, with sharks moving from one seal to another, until they get a lucky strike. What is interesting is that larger sharks generally hunt further away from the island, avoiding the increased competition in the core hunting area. The success of these sharks is also higher. It appears therefore that the larger sharks probably follow their prey for longer and wait for the perfect time to strike, rather than launch suboptimal strikes simply because of the pressure to catch a seal before another shark does. Steven Spielberg’s 1975 blockbuster film JAWS, based on the novel by Peter Benchley, elicited a more emotive response towards the Great white than any other film has done before or since for any animal. Quite simply this iconic shark became public enemy number one. In the same breath though the super shark was elevated to an unparalleled status amongst other wildlife, with everyone having an opinion one way or another. With the anti-shark lobby there also emerged a pro-shark lobby, comprised of those who wanted to educate themselves and learn more about the creature in flesh, rather than simply believe in the behaviour of the robotic creature portrayed on the big screen. Sharks became so popular that Discovery Channel in 1987 launched an entire week of shows dedicated to sharks which continues with ever growing popularity to this day. To meet the growing interest, film crews flocked to many of the world’s famous great white shark haunts but undoubtedly none more so than False Bay’s Seal Island. On a winter morning in 1996 I towed a small lifejacket behind my motorised 11ft rubber dinghy and lo and behold a great white shark launched into the air, lifejacket clenched between it’s pearly whites. That was my introduction to the Flying great white sharks that patrol Seal Island. It wasn’t rocket science that we had discovered something very special and when my first images of the sharks breaching made the public domain the response was incredible. Front page stories on some of the world’s biggest newspapers carried the images which many questioned as being fake. Soon thereafter film crews started joining our shark viewing company to see these sharks in action. All the time we learnt more about the complex and intertwined ecosystem of Seal Island and how we needed to respect not only the shark but also their prey, as both dueled for survival in spectacular aerial contests. Discovery Channel’s ‘Air Jaws’ series of shows really catapulted the flying sharks into the stratosphere as breach after breach launched into living rooms everywhere. Then came BBC’s landmark ‘Planet Earth’ series, with its super high speed cameras and slow motion footage that visually enticed us with every water droplet cascading down the shark’s back in high definition. The Great white was no longer a villain, it was now a super athletic predator that people flocked to try and see. Today more than 70,000 people cage dive with great white sharks each year in South Africa and operations in Guadalupe, Australia and New Zealand have all grown in popularity. Today I still try to get “The Shot”. With less than a second and no warning, shooting a breach is not for those with slow reflexes. The real challenge though, and one I focus most attention on, is photographing a natural predation. This is what the true essence of Seal Island is all about. If I can showcase this behavior to those people who do not have the means to see it for themselves and at the same time pay homage to both predator and prey I hope in some way to have paid back my debt of gratitude for the privilege of spending time with Seal Island’s amazing wildlife. Recent research shows that not only do sharks specialise in different hunting techniques in different areas but individual sharks within those areas may also specialise. Young great whites, 5-8ft in size specialize in feeding primarily on fish, smaller sharks and rays. As they start growing their long, narrow teeth become wider and more suited to cutting their prey, rather than grasping it. This reflects a shift in their diet towards more mammalian prey. At Seal Island the highly athletic teenage sharks in the 10-14 ft range feed almost exclusively on young, recently-weaned Cape fur seals, which proaching adulthood in the 14-15ft range, they once again seem to have a diet shift. Chasing agile seals becomes less rewarding and start to rely more on higher-energy species, such as elephant seals and whale carcasses. Interestingly, at Seal Island only 10% of all sharks are 4.0m or more in length and adults of 5m or more are rare. When a whale carcass drifts into the 1,000 square kilometer False Bay, large adults are suddenly seen. It appears, therefore, that whilst these animals are rare to Seal Island, they are still present and prefer to feed on these high energy, all-you-can-eat blubber buffets. have a healthy layer of blubber but a disproportionate amount of experience when it comes to recognising predators. On cloud free days, the sharks feed mostly just before sunrise until about an hour after sunrise, but will feed longer when light levels are lower. By using a full speed surface attack they are able to catch and kill seals on 48% of all attacks observed at Seal Island and 90% of these are on pups less than a year old. Sharks very seldom share seal kills and predation events last typically 30 seconds to a few minutes. As the sharks grow even further and start ap- In areas such as Guadalupe and the Farallon Islands off the North American west coast, larger adult great whites often target elephant seals of varying ages and size. They attack underwater, trying to bite the seal with a devastating first strike and then waiting until their prey has bled out before feeding. Often, several sharks will feed on a single large seal and events can last upwards of 20 minutes. At Guadalupe, off Mexico, in addition to seals, the great white sharks in this area also scavenge yellowfin tuna from under sport fishing boats. A predilection for Sashimi is also seen in Mediterranean great white shark diets where large adult great whites have often been caught in the matanza, the harvesting of Bluefin tuna, in a series of nets leading ultimately to a death chamber, where sadly great whites sometimes also end up. Great whites caught in this area have in also been found with dolphins (mostly bottlenose) in their stomachs. Moving down South to Australia and New Zea- land, little predation has been witnessed, but as the great whites concentrate around seal colonies, mostly New Zealand fur seals, it is likely that they are the primary prey. With the water generally much clearer than in South Africa it is possible that the sharks are feeding at night when the advantage of sight would be taken away from the seals and the sharks can use their highly acute ability to detect sound and vibration to give them the upper hand. ‘Just as each human being has a personality, so do great white sharks’, says Fallows. ‘Undoubtedly the greatest long term highlight of working with them has been getting to know the individuals themselves. It’s like seeing an old friend when they return each year. And it’s sad when they don’t come back. Whilst all sharks are special there are those that make that much more of an impression.’ ‘Between 1997 and 2006 we got to know Rasta, the super relaxed and lovable shark we watched for 8 years. Rasta grew close to 15ft and would put her head out of the water and gaze at our boat. On one occasion, she gently put her head on our dive step, which was a foot clear of the water, looking curiously at all who watched her. If ever there was shark who got into the hearts of all who saw her, it was the gentle giant, Rasta.’ ‘We also had February , a super confident female who we watched over the course of a decade grow from 10ft into a 16ft magnificent adult, dominating her kind and our boat alike.’ ‘Currently we have Shy Guy, a 12ft reserved male who is a super efficient hunter but never comes to the boat. He really is a shark that dispels the notion that great whites are conditioned to expect handouts from boats. Then there’s Cruella, an assertive 12ft female whose high-speed lunges at our decoy and bait managed to chase away a BBC film crew who just wanted to film a relaxed, slow-swimming shark.’ ‘Undoubtedly these, and many other great whites we have come to know so well, have really taught us that each animal out there deserves to be treated as an individual, with respect and with compassion.’ WHALE BUFFET “Five times over the last 13 years we have had the privilege of witnessing the truly phenomenal event of Great white sharks feeding on a whale carcass”, says Monique. “ In September 2010, when we disovered a dead 12-meter Brydes whale, it was the beginning of a 9-day clean up job like no other.” “The whale had either been hit by a large boat or had died in a trawl net. There were already a number of white shark bites as well as what we presumed were blue shark and mako shark bites.” “Judging by the prevailing weather conditions and current drift the carcass would have washed up onto a tricky bit of coast line making the clean up job a very difficult one. We made a decision to tow the whale some 9 miles further into False Bay to Seal Island in the hope that the Great whites could dispose of the carcass naturally. The towing mission was extremely slow going. With the oily slick of chum following in our wake we were astounded that no sharks came to investigate, even after we arrived at Seal Island and waited for several hours.” “When we returned the following day it was evident that the sharks must have found the car- cass in the early hours of the morning. Large chunks of blubber had already been removed and one male was busy gorging himself as we attempted to secure our boat onto the anchored whale. Great white sharks have high energy demands and the thick layer of blubber on this whale was the ultimate energy source.” “It was interesting to see just how selective the sharks were. We watched as they would bite into the whale’s flesh and then move on as soon as they could taste it was not the energy rich blubber they were after. This was not the feeding frenzy that some people wrongly believe is typical of a great white. In one horrific moment a shark bit through the womb of the whale and out popped its already dead calf. We felt sad at this terrible waste of life, but at least the sharks were able to benefit from it.” “More than 30 different sharks attended the banquet at different times, more than I ever thought would be present in False Bay during September. Great whites rarely tolerate each other’s presence but their behaviour seemed more relaxed around the whale as there was little competition for the gigantic cracass. At one point, we saw four feeding together, though some were sporting fresh bite marks” “This was an extremely rare event that we were privileged to see. I don’t know if we will ever have the chance again.” ‘Whilst it is a privilege every time you see a great white shark move effortlessly through its watery world there are some moments that stand out and remain with you forever’, says Chris. ‘The single event that was most memorable for me had to be watching 28 great white devour a whale carcass in July 2000. We had the sharks, some of which were 16ft or more, feeding belly up next to each other. Up to eight sharks at a time would lift half their bodies clear of the water, clamping onto the energy-rich blubber and hanging there like piglets sucking from a sow. The hiss of air exploding from each gulp, along with the thrashing and tearing of fatty chunks, was mesmerizing. Coupled with the acrid smell and fatty mist that lingered above the rotting carcass, this was a sensory onslaught; truly the nirvana for shark lovers.’ ‘In just 18 hours the sharks had devoured two thirds of the 12m long Brydes whale.’ ‘Another highlight has to be the times when we have witnessed in excess of 45 predatory events in a single morning, most taking place in just a few hours, sometimes simultaneously. Our guests all shout and scream with excitement. It’s a seal’s worst nightmare, with sharks launching wave after wave of spectacular aerial assaults. You don’t know where to look or which event to follow! The same is true for the gulls, which usually flock above such events, waiting for a breach or splash and then swooping down to search for seal entrails. On mornings such as these, gulls will proactively follow the seals instead, because attacks are that likely.’ ‘To put this into perspective, the Farralon islands off San Francisco, which records roughly 40-50 events in a whole year is said to be the second best place to see natural predatory behaviour of great whites.’ COMMON DOLPHIN Delphinus delphis WEIGHT (grown): 150 kg LENGTH: 1.7 - 2.5 m TOP SPEED: 40 km/h MOVEABLE FEAST In Autumn, the movement of bait fish into the middle of the bay attracts huge schools of common dolphins - sometimes as many as 1,000 in a single “megapod” but schools of 20-200 are more common. Working as a team, they herd the fish into a ‘bait ball’ firing bursts of sonar to disorientate their prey. These beautifully patterned dolphins are especially common in False Bay in April but can be seen year round. They grow to around 2.5m, live close to 40 years and will actively race up to boats and try to ride the bow wave. The yellowish figure of eight pattern on the flanks of this dolphin is a key identification feature. In South African waters common dolphins are often associated with flocks of Cape gannets, which follow the pod and wait for them to herd fish into a bait ball. Then they attack from the air, plummeting into the water at speeds exceeding 120 kilometres per hour and plunging to depths of 20 metres or more. When underwater they can “fly” after their prey with remarkably keen eyesight. The strike of the gannets as they hit the water makes a very clearly audible thud, even to the human ear. No doubt the sound of the gannets hitting the water en masse is the calling card for a whole host of predators such as sharks and Brydes whales which also join the dolphins at the feast. Bronze whaler sharks attack a baitball herded by dolphins Gannets dive below the waves to join the feast Common dolphins are by far the most regularly seen species of dolphin in False Bay. Around February each year, pods containing hundreds of dolphins may expand to mega pods, numbering in excess of a thousand individuals. One of the most interesting aspects of dolphin feeding in False Bay is the seldom-seen ‘gyre feeding’ pattern that the mega pods employ. The dolphins swim as one in huge circular orbits, creating a swirling mass of water. Inside this mass, the hapless bait fish appear confused and the dolphins are able to pick them off with consummate ease. Common dolphins , like many other species, are highly protective of their young and the new born or young dolphins swim tightly at their mother’s flanks, generally right in the middle of the school. As the huge shoals of sardines leave False Bay so do the massive dolphin schools. Only small pods seem to stay in the bay and surrounding area year-round. The dolphins do appear to encounter great whites and it is not uncommon to see dolphin schools fleeing an area, suddenly taking off as one at high speed. Whilst Fallows has never seen an actual strike, an Apex Shark Expeditions crew did once see a huge pool of blood within a school of dolphins and a shark feeding on the surface. No dolphin carcass was actually seen but it appears highly likely that a great white shark had caught a common dolphin and thus the threat that great white sharks pose to young, weak or less vigilant dolphins cannot be ignored. KILLER WHALE Orcinus orca WEIGHT (male): up to 9,000 kg LENGTH (male): up to 9.8 m TOP SPEED: 56 km/h “When I first described the breaching sharks of Seal Island back in 1996, I thought nothing could top the sight of an airborne great white in pursuit of a seal”, says Chris. “But thirteen years later I witnessed something that was at least as incredible. It was a beautiful autumn day and my crew and I had anchored off Seal Island to wait for sharks when we saw several spouts in the distance, followed by two large dorsal fins breaking the surface. Orcas! It was the first time we’d seen them in the bay. All thoughts of sharks were forgotten”. “2009 was an epic marine watching season, surpassing many before it, because an increased density of common dolphins and Cape gannets had invaded False Bay in pursuit of the huge shoals of baitfish. I strongly suspect that it was the commotion of the daily feeding orgy involving more than 1,000 dolphins, 5,000 gannets, hundreds of penguins, Bryde’s whales and even massive pods of seals that attracted the orcas in the first place”. We followed the killer whales towards a school of dolphins that was tearing into a shoal of bait- fish. We watched as the orcas swam to within 200 metres of the boiling mass and then dived. For 30 peaceful seconds everything appeared normal, then all hell broke loose. As the entire pod fled in a cascade of spray, one of the orcas launched her 3,000-kilogram body out of the water into the melee. It seemed inconceivable that the ocean’s two greatest predators would use the same spectacular breaching technique in the same area to catch their prey. False Bay is the only place in the world where orcas and great whites do this. ‘By 2014 we had watched the orcas hunt 23 times and had seen 5 different pods’, says Fallows. ‘The most commonly seen pod is still the group of four but another pod of 12 has also been seen four times. Within this second pod are two adult males, one of whom is very active during hunting. More fascinating though, was watching a female teach her calf how to hunt the dolphins. We observed her stun and slow down a sub adult dolphin to the point where the dolphin could only move at about three quarter pace. She and her calf then followed behind the injured dolphin for almost fifteen minutes until, on some unknown cue, the calf rushed ahead and delivered the coup de grace to the dolphin. Whilst sad for the dolphin, it was incredible to see how the whole hunting process is passed from generation to generation.’ ‘Orcas are seen off the South African coast on a regular basis, scavenging tuna and swordfish off longlines. But they only appear to come inshore when the massive dolphin schools are feeding in the area. What is also very clear is how each orca has a unique personality. In the group of four, all of which have been named, there is the main huntress Cleopatra, who uses spectacular high speed upward rushes into her prey to incapacitate them. There are two smaller orcas called Bonnie and Clyde who appear to simply run down their prey and then finally there is the very social Mannemerak, who always brings up the rear and is like the sweeper in a football game.’ ‘When we have been lucky enough to spend time with these amazing four we have al- ways stayed a respectful distance away from the pod and steered the same course as that which they are following from about 200 metres away. Without fail, Mannemerak always swims over to our vessel and rides directly next to us at our stern. She will sometimes do this for over five minutes and guests who are aboard our boat are left giddy with excitement as she frequently inverts onto her back and swims upside down right next to them. It is quite unbelievable how intelligent these animals are and just how much personality each one has.’ BLUE SHARK Prionace glauca WEIGHT (grown): up to 240 kg LENGTH: up to 3.8 m TOP SPEED: 39 km/h and other-worldly Blue sharks are masters of the open ocean, gliding on large wing-like pectoral fins and a flattened belly. They are easily identified by the deep indigo-blue across their back and flank, paling to white underneath. Blue sharks are probably the most widespread and abundant of all shark species, occurring in temperate and tropical waters from 50°N to 40°S around the globe. However, this species is one of the most heavily fished sharks in the world, with an estimated 10 to 20 million individuals caught and killed each year, mostly to supply the international shark fin trade. Although typically an offshore species, the blue shark may venture inshore, especially at night. The high season for pelagic sharks around False Bay is November-June, with the better weather months being between February-June. “The open ocean is an environment that few ever experience”, says Chris. “Diving with pelagic (open water) sharks such as blues and makos, is a unique and otherworldly experience. They favour very deep water, up to 1,000m or more, and they are often found alongside huge yellowfin tuna and pelagic birds, such as albatrosses. ‘The average size blue shark is about five feet in length with seven to nine footers being rare’, says Fallows. ‘As true open ocean nomads I always wonder just where they have come from and if they know where they are going.’ ‘Diving way out to sea off the South West Tip of Africa in over 1000m of water is about as adventurous you can be in today’s high tech world’, says Chris. ‘You know with almost certainty that the sharks and wildlife you are encountering have never seen a human in their world before. They are as curious of us as we are of them and blue sharks in particular will swim right up to you, even giving the odd bump to assess your status as prey, predator or otherwise. By being bold and meeting them head on, never taking your eyes off them, I’ve found that you are far less vulnerable. This way, the sharks may approach close to you but after a while they simply swim around you and treat you as another predator in their environment.’ WHAT LIES BENEATH A group of shy albatrosses rest on the sea, unconcerned about the blue sharks cruising below them. These long-distance ocean nomads nest thousands of kilometres away, on three islands off Tasmania, visiting South African waters during non-breeding season to feed. “In January 2013 we were lucky enough to witness the almost unbelievable sight of about 40 blue sharks feeding on a bait ball of anchovies”, says Monique. “In 15 years of working off Cape Point this is the first time we have come across this amazing situation.” “The water was clear blue, 15 to 20 meters visibility, and warm - perfect for diving. The bait ball was just below the surface which meant that it was easy to snorkel.” “The bait ball pitched and swelled as the sharks made their entrances. And then, as if a curtain was opening, the fish would part and the emerge again with a mouthful of anchovy. It was mesmerizing.” “The sharks were larger than the average size that we see, between 1.5 and 2 metres in length. At no time did I feel threatened by the sharks in any way, they simply ignored us and were only focused on the bait ball. Some would curiously approach us but there was seldom a situation where we needed to push them away. This amazed me that they could be so non-threatening in a natural feeding situation, just showing again how most times sharks are just interested in getting on with what they are supposed to do. They held the fish together for three hours, allowing Chris an incredible photo opportunity. We are not aware of any other images of blue sharks feeding on a fish bait ball.” CAPE FUR SEAL Arctocephalus pusillus WEIGHT (grown): 300 kg LENGTH: 3 m TOP SPEED: 25 km/h Seal Island is home to 60,000 cape fur seals, South Africa’s largest island-bound seal colony. Ironically, despite being the largest of all fur seals, they were originally described from a pup and given the scientific name Arctocephalus pusillus (pusillus means small). ‘The seals on Seal Island appear to haul out in almost exactly the same spot each day, as if each seal has his or her tiny piece of real estate’, says Chris. ‘What we suspect is that there is a social connection between the seals in a general area. Depending on family ties or age, the seals seem to form well established groupings. This is even more amazingly demonstrated when the seals go out to feed. Swimming through breaking surf over very shallow reef, they congregate at a point on the Southern terminus of the island called the ‘launch pad’, until up to one hundred may be present in a small area. Then, on some unknown cue, groups of 3-30 seals leave the launch pad at intervals of 10-15 seconds.’ ‘The seals adopt a high speed criss crossing within the groups, which must be designed to confuse sharks with a pattern of blending bodies, making it hard to identify an individual target. This is all about safety in numbers. With more eyes in the water it makes it that much harder for sharks to go undetected. If a seal does detect an approaching shark, the others will react to its behaviour, and in a split second the entire group rapidly changes direction. Not surprisingly therefore, the sharks’ hunting success on groups of seals is only 15% While the famous sharks of seal Island undoubtedly steal the limelight, not nearly enough can be said about the amazing anti predatory displays and survival instinct displayed by the seals.’ TURNING THE TABLES Some fur seals have learned to kill sharks - mostly small species such as catsharks, but also (seen here) blue sharks up to 1.5m in length. They target the oil-rich liver, removing it with a surgeon’s precision, often discarding the rest of the shark. “This seal ate only the stomach and liver before moving on to its next victim”, says Chris. “I saw it take five blue sharks in the space of a couple of hours! At that point we moved the boat a few miles away, not wanting to attract any more sharks within its range!” “I have also photographed fur seals swimming very close to silky sharks [top left] and mako sharks [bottom left]” MAKO SHARK Isurus oxyrinchus WEIGHT (grown): 60 - 500 kg LENGTH: 2.6 - 4.5 m TOP SPEED: more than 70 km/h ‘Almost everyone is familiar with the Great White Shark yet only a fraction of the general public is aware of the great white’s faster and arguably more beautiful closest relative, the mako shark’, says Fallows. ‘Called “Blue Dynamite” by sport fishermen, the mako has a reputation for explosive bursts of speed when attacking its prey (or longlines, which sadly kill millions of sharks each year). In 1998, when we first proposed free diving with the makos off the tip of Cape Town’s Cape Point, the local fishermen thought we would end up in Davy Jones’ locker. I remember well my trepidation when I slipped into the water with a two meter mako cruising through our chum slick. What emerged from the boat’s bubbles was a magnificently designed cobalt blue bullet with large black eyes. With a flick of its tail, the shark moved from cruising speed to a lightning-fast blur. It could have been on top of me in a second if it wanted. Since 1998, we have done hundreds of free dives with makos and never once have any of our guests or our crew been threatened by one. It is simply magical to be in their company.’ ‘These masters of the open ocean feed principally on game fish such as tuna and occasionally even broadbill swordfish. There are several records of makos that have been caught with 3 foot long bills of swordfish still impaled in their sides, testimony no doubt to titanic open ocean battles.’ ‘The mako can grow to over 4.0m in length, with the largest ever specimen coming from the French coast at close to 4.5m. The ones we see off Cape Point are usually around 4-5ft in length and are still youngsters. Occasionally however, larger sharks approaching 7-9 feet glide into our wake. It is a truly magnificent sight to watch them, as sunlight dances along their royal blue flanks.’ For years people have travelled to South Africa to see the famous Big Five land mammals - lions, leopards, elephant, rhino and buffalo. But False Bay plays host to its very own Big Five. Joining the great white, common dolphin and cape fur seal are the southern right whale (18-metre-long giants that arrive in the southern spring from Antarctica) and the African penguin, with more than 1,000 breeding pairs at Boulders beach alone. When you add orcas, large game fish and the 20 different species of shark that can be seen in the area, it’s clear to see why False Bay is often known as the ‘Serengeti of the Sea’. Search www.naturepl.com for: “Fallows False Bay” Contact: [email protected] +44 (0)117 911 4675 Chris and Monique Fallows own Apex Shark Expeditions based in Simon’s Town, Cape Town. They are wildlife naturalists and are absolutely passionate about sharks, spending at least 150 days at sea every year working with a variety of shark species. Find out about their shark tours at www.apexpredators.com.
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