Royal Fashion in Medieval England PART 1: THE IMPORTANCE OF DRESS Lexis of cloth and clothing: Medieval Royal Wardrobe accounts | University of Westminster | March 1, 2016 Table of Contents Lesson Plan ....................................................................................................................................................2 Objectives ...................................................................................................................................................2 Activities .....................................................................................................................................................2 Outcomes ...................................................................................................................................................2 Plenary ........................................................................................................................................................2 Tasks................................................................................................................................................................ 3 Background .....................................................................................................................................................7 Teachers’ Notes .............................................................................................................................................. 8 References and External Links ....................................................................................................................... 9 1 Lesson Plan OBJECTIVES To teach the students the about the importance of dress in medieval society To develop the students ability to evaluate pictorial sources ACTIVITIES The pupils will be shown an image and asked to evaluate it They will then be given additional background information and asked to reevaluate the image in light of what they have learned They will be shown a series of images to test their new skills and knowledge (see plenary) OUTCOMES By the end of the session the pupils will: Have gained an understanding of the importance of dress in medieval England Have developed analytical skills in evaluating pictorial sources PLENARY The class will conclude with a test to assess the students’ development. They will be split into groups and given a number of paddles with the words “Royal; Noble; Churchmen; Merchant; Peasant” attached. They will then be shown a series of pictures of medieval people and then (after one minute of group discussion) will be asked to vote using their paddles. The results will be recorded for use in Part II. 2 Tasks Figure 1 1. 2. Look at figure 1. Can you find? A king A noble Merchants Peasants So far what do you think this image is about? 3. Now read the Background Section 1. Does this give you a better idea of who these people were? 3 Figure 2 4. Look at the left hand part of the image (Figure 2). What part of society do you think they come from? 5. Now read Background Section 2 and look at figure 2. Can you now find? A cardinal A bishop A monk 4 Figure 3 Figure 4 6. 7. 8. 9. Look at figures 3 and 4. What groups are they from? How do we know? Can you see similarities in their dress? If you were a king how would you have dressed and why? Finally, look once more at figure 1. Who is missing? Time for a picture quiz… 5 Figure 4 - Structure of Medieval Society Figure 5 - Structure of the Church 6 Background 1. In medieval times, even more than today, clothing was an indication of wealth, status and even occupation. The structure of medieval society was emphasized by the clothes that people wore. This helped people to recognize the status of people they met and guided them as to how they should behave. This was just one way of upholding the social hierarchy known as the feudal system (See figure 4). Kings were recognizable by the rich clothes that they wore. These were made from expensive silks and wools and were often lined with expensive furs. On special occasions they also wore crowns. Nobles wore expensive clothes too which they often embellished with jewellery. Knights usually wore less expensive versions of the clothes of their overlords. In art they were often depicted in their armour. This was in itself an indicator of wealth as armour was often very expensive. Merchants, who were often very wealthy wore fine clothes too. However their gowns were often shorter which indicated they were not of noble birth. Peasants wore clothes made from rough cloth which had to endure hard daily use. However, even peasants could be quite wealthy and used clothes to emphasize their wealth. 2. Dress was a very important in the medieval Church for showing rank and occupation. A cardinal (the Popes special representatives) was instantly recognizable by his red gown and wide-brimmed red hat. Bishops wore special pointy hats called miters. Members of the monastic orders, called monks, wore very simple robes of one color – often black, grey or white depending upon their order. 7 Teachers’ Notes This two part lesson is suitable for KS3 History, Section One – The Development of Church, State and Society Medieval Britain, 1066-1509. It is particularly appropriate for exploring the (non-statutory) content topics suggested by the DfE: The Norman Conquest Christendom, the importance of religion and the Crusades The struggle between Church and crown Society, economy and culture The Black Death and its social implications The Peasants’ Revolt It could also be used to support KS3 Citizenship Unit 4: ‘Britain – a diverse society?’ as it provides evidence of the history of cultural diversity in medieval England. The illustration (Paris, BnF, département des Manuscrits, Français 126, fol. 7) is an illustration depicting the different estates of medieval society. It appears in an early fifteenth century copy of Giles of Rome’s (d. 1316) De Regimine Principum (On the rule of Princes). The artist has paid special attention to the sumptuous clothing of the individuals at the top of the social spectrum. Yet, if we look closer it is clear that distinctions of dress were somewhat blurred. There are merchants who are dressed as well as members of the noble classes; similarly there are peasants who are dressed as well as some of the merchants. Is this intended to demonstrate the general prosperity of the kingdom? Or, does it hint towards a more complex social issue? Additional Information In 1281 the first sumptuary laws were passed which tried to restrict the consumption (in food and clothes) of various classes of society. To begin with these were often fiscally pragmatic and aimed at restricting the import of foreign goods which were considered to be upsetting the domestic economy. However, after the Black Death and its destabilizing effect on medieval society the laws took on a new importance. In 1363 the statute Concerning Diet and Apparel showed a marked effort to restrict the appearance of the “middleclasses” – while the habits of the highest and lowest ranks of society went unrestricted. The 1263 statute was repealed with less than a year, yet the matter continued to be debated until the Statute of Apparel in 1483. External Work External work for this lesson might include getting the class to draw their own image of current British society to explore how clothing does, and does not indicate different social groups. The class could also think about the role of clothes in modern institutions like schools, corporations and clubs. Are current regulations on clothing enforced because of similar concerns as those held in medieval England? 8 References and External Links Cover Image - Paris, BnF, département des Manuscrits, Français 126, fol. 7 http://lexissearch.arts.manchester.ac.uk https://medievalroyalwardrobelexis.wordpress.com 9
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