HONEYMOON | HONG KONG
CONSTANCE TSARABANJINA,
MADAGASCAR
WORDS BY GILLIAN MCLAREN
An exotic honeymoon destination, Madagascar combines tropical warmth and fascinating wildlife on land
and in the sea with the relaxed lifestyle of the Malagasy people. Add to that an exclusive island lodge in
serene surroundings and you have an unforgettable location.
As the boat cuts through the azure water
simple, minimalistic look which is spacious and
gear, as right in front of the island there is
and approaches Constance Tsarabanjina, you
light. Décor is in neutral shades and tastefully
an abundance of pretty hard and soft coral,
see a row of people standing on the white
done. The bathroom, behind the bedroom,
FRORXUIXOUHHI´VKHVDQGDPD]LQJXQGHUZDWHU
beach, waving enthusiastically. This is the
KDVVFUHHGµRRUVFHPHQWEDVLQDQGHOHJDQW
life.
warm welcome which envelops you into the
FKURPH´WWLQJVZLWKGULIWZRRGFUHDWLYHO\
personalised experience on a remote island an
used as part of the shower structure.
Daily boat excursions take guests to
awe-­inspiring snorkeling sites further from
hour’s journey from Nosy Be in Madagascar. At
Thirteen villas on the north beach have air-­
the house reef, where a knowledgeable staff
low tide you can stroll around the entire island.
conditioning and are set on the crest of a hill,
member guides the exploration and teaches
so have a wide-­angle view and private path to
snorkeling techniques and names of the
area and bar is strikingly beautiful. It is easy to
the beach. Twelve on the south beach have a
marine organisms.
sit here and gaze at the aquamarine waves as
sea-­breeze cooling system and are positioned
they gently break onto the shore. Dolphins are
on the same level as the beach. In front of all
WU\VFXEDIRUWKH´UVWWLPHLWLVWKHLGHDO
frequently sighted and seabirds soar overhead
villas is a covered verandah with daybeds.
place, as dive conditions are easy and there
DVWKH\VFRXUIRU´VK
To rinse the white sand off your feet before
is a rich diversity of life on nearby reefs. We
entering your villa, a shallow cement footbath
saw so much on each dive that we could not
two other superb beaches, side by side yet
LV´OOHGZLWKIUHVKZDWHUDQGGHFRUDWHGZLWK
remember everything we had seen, which
SULYDWHZLWKDPDJQL´FHQWYLHZRIWKH,QGLDQ
frangipani daily.
included white-­tipped shark, blue-­spotted
The pristine beach in front of the dining
The palm-­fringed villas are situated along
Ocean. Each villa has its own area on the
Honeymooners are given a Tsarabanjina
If you are a scuba diver -­ or would like to
VWLQJUD\FURFRGLOH´VKDQGKXJHFORXGV
beach, with white umbrella and comfortable
Island sarong each. Besides your bathing suit
RIIXVLOLHUSXIIHU´VKDQGDEXQGDQWPDFUR
deck chairs. Recently renovated and
and a sun hat, you don’t need much more!
creatures.
refurbished, the villas are contemporary with a
Each guest has the use of snorkeling
LANGHAM PLACE HOTEL
PAGE 154
Honeymoon tsarabjana.indd 154
2013-11-20 07:29:19 PM
HONEYMOON | MADAGASCAR
rocks near to the island you can see the rare
each evening. Imagine your feet in the warm
to Tsarabanjina from the end of July until the
Madagascar Fish Eagle. A short boat trip away
sand as you sip a Pina colada with freshly
end of October, when you can spot them by
is a breeding colony of Brown Booby, Brown
squeezed pineapple juice, fresh coconut and
the blowing and breeching. En route to a dive
Noddy and Frigate birds. White-­throated
Madagascan rum, beneath a tissue-­pink sky
site we came across a female who had just
rails have the freedom of the island, and their
UHµHFWHGLQDVWLOOVHD
given birth to her calf and was almost still in
call rises each evening. Flitting around the
the water, with the baby slowly moving next
lodge gardens is Souimanga’s sunbird, with
to her.
iridescent green and yellow feathers.
Humpback whales frequent the waters next
There is freedom to spend time on your
To see lemurs you can take a day trip to
own as a couple, or to enjoy activities in
Nosy Komba, where black lemur sit on your
the company of other guests. Each day a
VKRXOGHU,QDQDXWKHQWLF0DODJDV\´VKLQJ
programme of things to do is posted, so you
village, Ampangorina, women sew exquisite
can select if you would like to participate in
tablecloths and dresses and men carve
any of the day’s fun.
with Palissandra wood. To maximise your
Other water-­based activities at Tsarabanjina
time at Constance Tsarabanjina you could
include kayaking, sailing, a cruise on a
perhaps visit Nosy Komba beforehand and
traditional pirogue, a sunset cruise on a
stay at 293 on Komba Guest House, where
catamaran and a birding tour. It is possible to
the food is outstanding and the garden
spend a day on a small deserted island, where
sports a fascinating species of chameleon.
you will be left alone with a picnic lunch and
The guesthouse is simple, scrupulously clean
snorkeling gear.
and tucked into a cosy cove overlooking the
With 90% of wildlife species in Madagascar
being endemic, you are sure to see animals
golden beach.
A delightful place for socialising at
and plants that are new to you. Birding is
Constance Tsarabanjina is the bar, where
richly rewarding. Poised on protruding
willing barmen mix cocktails of your choice
CHAUN SPA
CHAUN SPA
PAGE 155
Honeymoon tsarabjana.indd 155
2013-11-20 07:29:27 PM
HONEYMOON | MADAGASCAR
For added relaxation you can have an
individual or couple’s massage in an open-­air salon
RQWKHEHDFK,WLVGHOLFLRXVO\VRSRUL´FWRKHDUWKH
waves breaking gently on the sand and to inhale
the island scents as kind hands soothe you.
Healthy, fresh food is served at all meals, with
WKHDFFHQWRQ´VKVWUDLJKWIURPWKHRFHDQ$V
´VKLQJLVRQHRIWKHDFWLYLWLHVRQRIIHU\RXPD\
end up being the ones to provide the lodge
with lunch! Breakfast and lunch are gourmet
buffets, with an array of creative dishes, fresh fruit
and vegetables. Bread, cakes and biscuits are
baked daily. Dinner is more formal, with waiters
serving a three-­course meal with ample choices,
DFFRPSDQLHGE\D´QHLQWHUQDWLRQDOVHOHFWLRQRI
wine. If you wish to dress more smart-­casually, to
VKRZRII\RXUWDQRU\RXUVXPPHURXW´WVWKLVLV
an opportunity to do so.
One evening a week, as a special treat, hors
d’oeuvres are served on tables outside on the
beach, in the moonlight. Fresh oysters are
shucked, and some are grilled au gratin, over an
RSHQ´UH9DULRXVW\SHVRI´VKFDUSDFFLRDUH
VHUYHGDVZHOODVFRRNHG´VKRQVNHZHUVZDVKHG
down with sparkling or white wine. A Malagasy
trio plays local music as a man in costume
skillfully dances to the rhythm, which irresistibly
draws guests to participate. By the time supper
is presented, friendships have been forged with
fellow guests and staff alike.
Leaving Tsarabanjina is not easy. As the craft
cut a wake leaving the island, I felt surprisingly
emotional as staff and guests that had befriended
us lined up on the beach, with both hands waving. ‹
Constance Tsarabinjina
[email protected]
www.constancehotels.com/lodge-­tsarabanjina.
KWPO
As your boat transfer to Tsarabanjina leaves in the
morning, you need to overnight in Antananarivo
or Nosy Be. Excellent transit hotels are the
following:
MangaSoa Lodge
info@manga-­soa-­lodge.com
ZZZPDQJDVRDORGJHFRP
Relais Des Plateaux
reservation@relais-­des-­plateaux.com
www.relais-­des-­plateaux.com
293 on Komba Guest House
[email protected]
www.293onkomba.com
Fly Airlink
ZZZµ\DLUOLQNFRP
Fly Air Madagascar
www.airmadagascar.com
In Madagascar: Nivo Ravelojaona of Za Tours;;
[email protected]
In South Africa: Helen Mann of Destinations A
Buzz;; [email protected]
Madagascar National Tourism Board
www.madagascar-­tourisme.com
PAGE 156
Honeymoon tsarabjana.indd 156
2013-11-20 07:29:30 PM