October 10, 2014
Life in the Balkans as an “Older” Member of the Peace Corps
Joe Martin, BA’64, at the
General Reunion of Vanderbilt University
Здраво! Добар ден. Ве сакам сите. Одите Dores! (In case you’re wondering, that
means “Hello! Good afternoon. I love you all. Go Dores!”)
Thanks for giving me this opportunity to tell you about the extraordinary experience I’m
having as a member of the Peace Corps in Macedonia. I’ve come home for a few days to join
you at our reunion. I’ll then go back to Macedonia to complete my service early next year.
After graduating from Vanderbilt in 1964, I became a young soldier in the U.S. Army,
who was part of the peace-keeping force in the Dominican Republic and then as an intelligence
officer in Vietnam. Now, fifty years later, I find myself in the Peace Corps. I suppose I’ve come
full circle in my life.
I want to do three things this afternoon:
1. Describe what I've been doing in the Peace Corps,
2. Mention a little about what America can learn from the rest of the world, and
3. Show the kind of adventure each of us can have, regardless of our age.
How did I get to Macedonia?
When I began to think about retirement a few years ago, I didn’t know what to do with
myself. So, I decided to join the Peace Corps. My goal was to make a contribution at this stage
in my life. Little did I realize how much I would change in the process.
After completing a long application process in 2012 (which has now been shortened), I
was assigned to Macedonia, a small country in Southeastern Europe, which was once part of
Yugoslavia.
At the top of the following page is a map of the Balkan Peninsula to give you a sense of
the geography. Some people have told me how glad they are that I’m serving in the Baltics.
No, I’m in the Balkans on the other side of Europe. Macedonia is located right in the middle of
this region, just to the north of Greece. The other neighboring countries are Bulgaria, Serbia,
Kosovo, and Albania.
The views expressed herein are mine personally and do not represent any position of the US Government or the Peace Corps.
-2-
This country has only 2 million people. Although they claim Alexander the Great as their
own, the present Macedonians descended in large part from the wave of Slavic migration into
Europe during the 6th century. Most Macedonians are Orthodox Christians, but about a third of
the residents are Muslins. Tragically, nearly all of the Jews, who had come from Spain, were
murdered by the Nazis during World War II.
The Peace Corps has been sending volunteers to Macedonia for nearly 20 years. I’m
part of a group with nearly 40 men and women from all over the U.S. About 10 of us are over
the age of 50. Following three months of intensive training, we serve for two years.
Here is a photo of our group, shortly after we arrived, although I should explain that the
fellow in the middle is an Orthodox priest, who was showing us his church.
-3-
I received my pre-service training in Kratovo, a small village in the northeastern part of
the country near Serbia, which is located on two sides of a deep valley.
Like all of the Balkans, this area was ruled by the Ottoman Empire for more than five
centuries (from 1382 to 1912). The next photo shows one of the watch towers built by the
Ottomans in Kratovo during the 14th century, long before Columbus arrived in the “new world.”
My beautiful language teachers, whom you can see in the next photo, couldn’t do much
for this old guy, but I’ve been able to get by. Fortunately, most of the younger Macedonians
speak English to one degree or another. The kids on the street immediately recognize me as an
American and like to try out their English on me.
-4-
While living with a local family, I began to learn about the fascinating customs of
Macedonia. In the following photo, I’m helping to cook ајвар, a local delicacy made from red
peppers.
In this part of Macedonia, there are strict gender roles. The women do nearly all of the
work around the house, while – to put it bluntly – the men sit on their rear ends!
After three months in Kratovo, I moved to Bitola in the southwestern part of the country
near the border with Greece. As indicated below, Bitola is a charming city with wonderful
people, which seems more European than any other city in Macedonia.
-5-
Here is a photo of the ruins of Heraclea, just to the south of Bitola, which was founded
in the 4th century BCE by Phillip the II, the father of Alexander the Great, and conquered by the
Romans in the 2nd century. In ancient times, Heraclea was an important stop on the major
trade route used by the Romans in traveling from Italy across the Adriatic Sea to Thessaloniki in
Greece and then on to Byzantium (later Constantinople and now Istanbul).
What is my specific role?
I was assigned to work with the Business Start-Up Center Bitola, which supports the
creation and growth of small businesses. This is a very important need in Macedonia, and the
center did a lot of good during its existence. However, the two founders of the organization got
into a feud which did so much harm that the center eventually lost its funding from USAID.
I came to feel great affection for the junior staff, some of whom are shown in this photo.
(I’m the guy sitting in the middle.) They are very energetic and talented, and in keeping with
the mission of the Peace Corps, I’ve tried to transfer skills and knowledge to them.
-6-
Fortunately, I had previously begun to reach out to other organizations. I particularly
wanted to get involved in strengthening the agricultural sector, which represents the greatest
untapped potential in the region where Bitola is located. One of the most effective tools has
been drip irrigation, a technique pioneered in Israel, which is well suited for Macedonia.
This photo shows the contrast between two corn fields. Drip irrigation was used in the
field on the left, while the one on the right was cultivated through traditional methods.
One of the experts from Israel is shown in the next photo. Can you imagine my chagrin
when I noticed that he was wearing – of all things – an orange baseball cap from the University
of Tennessee?
-7-
Here is a photo of a husband and wife who are justly proud of their farm. The
underlying challenge is to help family farms make the transition to viable businesses. Although
I don’t know much about farming, I do know about finance. So, I’m now working with USAID
and Carana, an international NGO, to create a major loan fund for agriculture in Macedonia.
On a personal basis, I enjoy teaching classes for adults in conversational and business
English at the American Corner, which is a center sponsored by the U.S. State Department to
educate people in other countries about life in America. I also participate in various community
projects and try to help individual Macedonians in all sorts of ways.
Economic challenges
Despite its many attributes and natural assets, Macedonia faces huge economic
challenges. Unemployment exceeds 30%, and at least half of the young Macedonians don’t
have a regular job. As you can see in the following photo, they often spend their time drinking
coffee in the sidewalk cafes and watching the people pass by, especially the young ladies.
-8-
Macedonia is one of the poorest countries in Europe, and the worst problem of all is the
lack of opportunity. There has been an exodus of at least 10% of the population during the last
decade. The “brain drain” of well-educated young people is a severe threat to the future
prosperity of this country
There are many magnificent old buildings. Take a look at this elementary school, which
was once the Bulgarian School for Girls.
Aims
And this stately old mansion.
-9-
However, many of the buildings, such as the one in this photo, reveal the deterioration
that comes from the depressed economic conditions.
Here is another once-gorgeous structure that has been vacant for years.
Many villages, such as Dragos, which is pictured on the following page, have been
virtually abandoned as people move to the cities, especially the capital of Skopje, or seek better
opportunities abroad. I’ve been stunned by the sense of resignation felt by many people.
-10-
Significance of Macedonia
So what is the significance of this small country to us in America?
Macedonia represents a microcosm of the Balkans. It has been described as “ground
zero in the age-old battle between Greek Orthodoxy and Turkish Islam.” If the issues that are
so apparent in Macedonia can be resolved, there is hope for our civilization. If not, all of us
may be engulfed by the animosities that are raging across the world.
Most notably, Macedonia bears the physical and emotional scars of war and occupation.
In addition to the Ottoman Empire, it was conquered at one time or another by Bulgaria, Serbia,
Greece, and Nazi Germany. One person told me his grandmother lived in eight countries during
her life without ever moving from the home where she was born.
There are many reminders of the horror of war in one’s own homeland. Here is a photo
of the cemetery for over seven thousand of the French soldiers who were killed in Bitola during
World War I. Most of the city was destroyed by the continuous bombardment from German
artillery on the surrounding mountains.
-11-
The indelible Turkish influence that comes from the long Ottoman occupation can be
found everywhere, especially in the bazaar in Bitola and the Old Town in Skopje as shown
below.
Ethnic and religious tensions have lingered for centuries and still lie just beneath the
surface. These tensions fueled the brutal civil war that erupted in Yugoslavia during the 1990s,
when the phrase “ethnic cleansing” came to have an ominous meaning. Although Macedonia
avoided the conflict in other parts of Yugoslavia, it had its own violent insurgency in 2001 that
was launched by Muslims who speak the Albanian language.
-12-
Churches and mosques – and at one time synagogues – were once interspersed in each
community, as you can see in the next two photos, but there is now a growing separation with
little interaction. Many Orthodox Macedonians refer to the Albanians, as they call them, in
disparaging words and resent the terms of the agreement that ended the fighting in 2001.
By the way, can you tell the difference between the interior of a Roman Catholic church
and the interior of an Orthodox church, as shown in the photo on the following page? (While
you’re thinking, let me mention some of the differences. There are no pews in an Orthodox
church. The congregation has to stand during the entire service. And there are no musical
instruments in an Orthodox church. The only music comes from the melodious chanting.)
-13-
Brief History of Macedonia
Now for a little more about the fascinating history of this country.
The national heroes of Macedonia are celebrated through an immense array of statues
and monuments. Most of them were not generals or poets or composers but conspirators, who
died in unsuccessful revolutions against the Ottoman Empire.
Here is a statue about one of the many groups who plotted against the Ottomans. This
group launched an uprising that led to the creation of the Krusevo Republic in 1903, but it
lasted for only ten days before being crushed, as depicted in the mural on the next page.
-14-
Many of you have heard about the Balkan Wars in 1912 and 1913, which were waged by
Serbia, Greece, and Bulgaria and their allies essentially for the purpose of determining who
would control Macedonia. So, everyone has been fighting over Macedonia for centuries.
It wasn’t until the end of World War II that Macedonia came to have its current borders
as you can see in this map. There were six republics in the newly created federation of
Yugoslavia: Serbia, Croatia, Slovenia, Bosnia & Herzegovina, Montenegro, and Macedonia.
(Kosovo was an autonomous province in Serbia at that time, but recently became an
independent nation.) When Yugoslavia began to unravel, Macedonia declared its
independence in 1991. That was only 23 years ago.
-15-
The dominant leader during the era of Yugoslavia was Marshall Tito, pictured here with
one of his friends. Tito is the one on your left. He was quite a charismatic figure and is revered
to this day as the father of his country. He led the fierce resistance against the Nazis and then
became the leader of the new nation. Under Tito, Yugoslavia embraced Communism, but it
stayed independent of the Soviet Bloc.
Through skillful diplomacy and autocratic power, Tito held the disparate religious and
cultural groups together for nearly 40 years until he died in 1980. However, the long-standing
ethnic rivalries and budding nationalism eventually tore Yugoslavia apart during the 1990’s.
Politics in Macedonia
The current political situation in Macedonia leaves much to be desired. The ruling party
isn’t reluctant to apply pressure of all sorts in turning out the vote for its candidates and keeps
a tight rein on the press. It’s almost impossible to get a job in the public sector, even as a
teacher, without being an active member of the party.
Political favoritism is widespread and generally accepted by the public. Shortly after
Macedonia became independent, many of the most valuable assets owned by the state were
sold to insiders with political connections. As happened in other countries, a new class of the
super-rich was created overnight, while the general population was left out.
In addition to the dispute with Greece over the name of Macedonia, the entry of
Macedonia into the European Union is being hindered by the need for more effective laws on
campaign finances and public procurement. The suspicions of inside dealing may or may not be
valid, but the lack of meaningful disclosure and transparency creates opportunities for abuse.
There are fervent appeals to nationalism, at least in part to divert attention from the
festering problems. Monuments, such as the massive statue of Alexander the Great in Skopje
shown on the following page, are being constructed at a rapid pace. Macedonia even has its
own cheesy Arc de Triomphe, although I don’t know any war it ever won on its own.
-16-
Meanwhile, the schools are still on double sessions with inadequate teaching materials,
and most of the hospitals are decrepit.
The plight of the Roma population, some of whom are enjoying a street party near my
apartment in Bitola in the following photo, is especially dire.
On the next page is a photo of one of the enthusiastic political rallies, which the Peace
Corps didn’t want me to attend, although I was always careful to be neutral.
-17-
The legacy from 50 years of communism is hard to overcome. Many businesses and
farmers still expect the government to take care of them or offer services for free.
Heritage and Culture of Macedonia
Even though Macedonia is very young as an independent nation, it’s a very old country
with a rich and distinctive culture.
There are many amazing sights, such as the Church of St. Jovan Kaneo at Lake Ohrid,
shown below.
8
-18-
The surrounding area is a UNESCO world heritage site. The lake, which is fed entirely by
springs, is one of the oldest and deepest in the world. You can see the city and lake in this view
from Czar Samuel’s castle.
The magnificent ski slopes in Mavrovo are also very impressive, as shown below.
-19-
One of my favorite destinations is the small museum for Mother Teresa in Skopje, which
my grandson and I are visiting in this photo.
The folk music is very spirited, and everyone dances the “oro” at wedding parties as
shown below.
-20-
The next photo shows a young woman in a traditional dress, who was pleased when I
asked if I could take a photo of her. (I should mention that the women in Macedonia are quite
beautiful – as they are in the U.S.!)
To me, the most appealing aspect of their culture is the deep affection for children.
Since many extended families live in the same residence or close to each other, a “баба” and a
“дедо” often take care of their grandchildren. They hold hands everywhere they go. Here you
can see a grandfather, who has taken his grandsons fishing.
-21-
And old men gather every day to tell tales as they do around the world.
I love to watch the mix of people walking up and down the main pedestrian street, the
Shirok Sokak, which means “wide alley” in Turkish. They usually walk arm in arm, as shown
below, and there is a steady flow of people from all ages all day long, especially in the early
evening during the summer.
-22-
I really enjoy seeing the young children bundled-up in large coats with scarfs and caps
during the winter, as you can see here, even when it’s not very cold.
Most Macedonians genuinely like Americans, and along with most of the world, they are
hooked on American culture. I have to tell them over and over not to believe what they see
about America in our films. The people in nearby Kosovo are particularly fond of former
President Bill Clinton, as shown below.
Much of their culture revolves around religious and national celebrations. There’s no
such thing as separation of church and state in Macedonia, as you can tell from the flags that fly
at every church, including St. Dimitri Church in Bitola, as shown on the following page.
-23-
The people are spiritual, but religion is also a label to identify one’s heritage. Church
attendance is largely related to religious events such as this procession on Epiphany Sunday in
Ohrid and the giant tree and bonfire at Christmas in the center of Bitola.
-24-
It has taken me a while to gain some understanding of the people. There is greater
interest in personal relationships than in one’s accomplishments. It’s more important to get to
know someone as a friend than to do something. Macedonians are warm, cordial, and
generous, as you can see in this photo, but they tend to be distrustful of people from other
backgrounds.
Along with the traditional gender roles, most people believe that the circumstances into
which you are born – and not how hard you work – determine your fate in life. Whatever is
going to happen will happen, regardless of what one might do.
There is an exasperating tendency to procrastinate, captured by the popular phrase,
“има време,” which literally means “there is time.” The most frequent pastime is having
coffee, as I’m doing with a young friend in Bitola in this photo, and many Macedonians,
especially the young people, stay up late, often into the early hours of the morning.
-25-
One of my disappointments is the widespread litter even in picturesque areas, and I get
irritated whenever someone squeezes ahead of me in a line. However, I’ve benefited much
more from the many unexpected acts of kindness, such as when people stop to help me up
after I’ve tripped in the snow and ice or a young woman offers me her seat on a crowded bus.
There is a keen interest in sports. The favorite is soccer, which Macedonians, like nearly
everyone else in the world, call football. The kids love to play football, as shown below.
Many Macedonians follow the NBA closely and are especially proud of Pero Antic, who
plays for the Atlanta Hawks. The European version of handball, which I describe as a mix of
basketball, hockey, and wrestling, is also popular.
Another tradition, which you may or may not like but is certainly characteristic of Bitola,
is the annual race in high heels along the Shirok Sokak. In this photo, some of the contestants
are getting ready for the race!
-26-
For a small city in a small country, which is poor by American standards, Bitola has an
amazing level of culture. Here are photos of a production of Hamlet in the ancient Roman
amphitheater at Heraclea, a magnificent concert at the “House of Culture,” a moving art exhibit
about the Holocaust in Macedonia, and one of the many street performances.
-27-
Bitola has the reputation of being a little haughty. For example, the people in Bitola,
who consider themselves more cosmopolitan than their neighbors in the nearby city of Prilep,
call the road from Prilep to Bitola the “evolution highway.” Now that I think about it, they have
a good idea. Perhaps this is what we ought to call the stretch of I-40 from Knoxville!
But what about the food? I’ve come to love the white and yellow cheese (сирење and
кашкавал), as shown in this platter, but haven’t acquired a taste for some of the other
delicacies, such as the traditional soup at Easter made from the heads of sheep shown on the
next page. Their ground beef doesn’t have the fillers we expect in the States, and their
delicious ice cream has an extra dose of cream.
-28-
Macedonians, especially young people like this little guy, love sweets. And many
households brew their own version of a local whisky, known as ракија. With a proof in alcohol
of about 50%, it’s also used as a home remedy and a disinfectant.
To give you an idea about the weather, here is the view from my apartment at the start
of December in Bitola last year, although the winter was very moderate by historical standards.
-29-
Despite the magnificent countryside, as you can see below in the mountains around
Berovo, there is also considerable deforestation, because most households in Macedonia
depend on wood-burning stoves for heat.
Electricity is one of the most expensive items in what is otherwise a very low cost of
living. The bulk of the country’s electricity is generated at this huge coal-fired plant in Novaci, a
village near Bitola, which billows huge amounts of smoke into the sky.
In July of 1963, when those of us who are Quings were rising seniors at Vanderbilt,
Skopje was struck by a powerful earthquake which destroyed over 80% of the city. As shown in
the photo at the top of the next page, the clock in the former train station is still stuck at 3:30
PM in the afternoon when the first shocks were felt.
-30-
This gets me to the final thoughts I want to leave with you today.
Lessons from Macedonia
Simply stated, there are compelling lessons which we as Americans can learn from
others around the world. And it helps to live with the people in another country to understand
what they really think.
I’ve come to realize how incredibly fortunate we are. We take for granted so many of
the things that are rare around the world like honest elections, freedom of the press, good
schools, safe highways, and reliable mail – or simply being able to flush toilet paper down the
drain.
Speaking personally, I now know how little we really need to get by. Our fixation on
accumulating things bogs us down instead of lifting us up. And there’s much to be gained from
walking everywhere in a pedestrian environment for both our health and social interaction,
instead of driving a car to get there.
We in America need to slow down and make the most of the time we have with our
family and friends. The people of Macedonia are far ahead of us in this respect. It’s now clear
to me that the break-neck pace I’ve maintained all of my life is crazy.
Living abroad in a country like Macedonia that has been buffeted by outside forces has
given me a much greater awareness of how interconnected the world is. Americans can’t
insulate ourselves from the dramatic changes occurring on the planet we share with others.
What happens in the rest of the world does affect us – and in profound ways.
-31-
Our responsibility as Americans
So, what is our responsibility as Americans? Others are rapidly catching up with us, but
America is still the richest and most powerful country in the world. Our inventions and culture
are pervasive. Despite their grumbling about our being arrogant, our friends and allies still look
to us for leadership. For our own well-being, if nothing else, we have to be engaged in the
events that are shaping our collective future.
There are dramatic examples in this part of the world to show what America can do.
Although it was late in coming, I’m proud of the role our country eventually played during the
1990s in ending the tragic civil wars in Bosnia and then Kosovo. The U.S. was also instrumental
in negotiating a political settlement to the insurgency that erupted in Macedonia during 2001.
What each of us can do
So, what is it that each of us can do – especially the members of my generation? The
first is to build bridges of understanding, and the second is to help others help themselves, both
in the U.S. and around the world. No man (or woman) is an island entire of itself. Creating
peace and prosperity is up to every one of us.
Let me leave you with one more message, which is just as true for other endeavors as it
is for service in the Peace Corps. It’s amazing what we can experience by just taking the plunge.
There’s nothing wrong with growing old; all that matters is how we do it. Somewhere out there
– or perhaps close to home – is a world of adventure waiting for each of us.
This example is not exactly what I have in mind, but I think you’ll get the point.
So, take the plunge. The water is fine. And you’ll enjoy the adventure!
Благодaрам. Пријатно.