The ALPINE CLUB of CANADA
2013 General Mountaineering Camp
Scotch Peaks
Purcell Mountains, BC
July 6th to August 10th, 2013
G.M.C. Committee
Welcome to the 2013 General Mountaineering Camp at Scotch Peaks in the Purcell
Mountains of BC. This is a brand new area for the GMC and we’re excited to offer ACC
members a chance to explore this spectacular location.
This years basecamp will be set among the meadows and granite boulders on the shore of
a protected alpine lake at approximately 2300 metres below the North Star Glacier. The
campsite is surrounded by numerous glaciers and the area’s major peaks. Climbing
objectives may include Mt. Alpha Centauri (3102m), North Star Peak (3123m), Mt.
Camarthen (2949m), Gwendoline Mountain (3149m), Assynt Peak (3005m), and Oykel
Peak (3004m) among others accessed via the North Star Glacier immediately above
camp. Possibility of ascending peaks on the nearby Catamount Glacier Mt. Harmon
(2971m), Mt. Galloway (2972m) and Black Fang (3034m). The Alpine Club of Canada
has a long and proud tradition of organizing camps and activities such as the GMC and is
responsible for much of the exploration and development that has occurred throughout
the Canadian Alps.
Below is a list of just some of the people who helped to organize the 2013 Scotch Peaks,
GMC. If you meet any of them, be sure to offer a big “thanks” for all their hard work.
David Dornian
Dan Verrall
Peter Muir
Zac Robinson
Chelsea Selinger
GMC Committee Chair
Camp Manager
President
VP Activities
Mountain Adventures Coordinator
In addition to the above people, each week of the GMC is assisted by a dedicated group
of volunteer Amateur Leaders and Camp Coordinators; they are also deserving of a big
“thanks” for their contributions to the ongoing success of the GMC’s.
The General Mountaineering Camp has been a proud tradition of the ACC since 1906.
Cheers.
Nomenclature
Information in this section is from the book “Canadian Mountain Place Names” by,
Glen W. Boles, Roger Laurilla, William L. Putnam. Rocky Mountain Books, 2006.
Alpha Centauri:
Mount [3094m]; 1969; Starbird. This is opposite North Star
Mountain and was named by West for one of the brightest stars in
our galaxy. It is seen only in the southern hemisphere, in the
constellation Centaurus, and, at a mere 4.3 light years away, is also
the nearest stars to our solar system.
Black Fang:
Mountain [3002m]; 1952; Starbird. Robinson meant this to be a
descriptive name for this nunatak/pinnacle-rising, in those more
glaciated days, some 30 metres sheer above the surrounding
snowfield.
Carmathen:
Peak [2941m]; Glacier; 1969; Starbird. Professor West applied
this name after the seaport of South Wales that had originally been
settled as a Roman encampment.
Catamount:
Peak [2733m]; 1902; Hermit. The Topographic Survey applied
this name, which refers to a variety of wildcats, in consonance with
nearby “Cougar,” “Bagheera,” etc. Glacier; 1952; 82K/10; N
Purcells: CS. Professor Robinson’s party caw wildcat tracks in the
early summer snow on the glacier.
Galloway:
Mountain [2972m]; 1972; N Purcells. New Zealand-born mining
engineer John Davidson Galloway (1886-1938) was assistant to
and then the B.C. provincial mineralogist from 1913 to 1932.
Galway:
Mountain [3002m]; 1962; Starbird. Renamed by West, this had
been known as Killarney Mountain.
Griffith:
Mount [2767m]; 1966; N Purcells. This summit had once been
known as “Ice Dome” and was called “Plumley Peak” by Robinson
in 1952, but was officially named for John Edgar Griffith, who had
been gold commissioner (mining recorder) at Golden in the East
Kootenay from 1897 to 1908.
Gwendoline:
Mountain [3149m]; 1912; Starbird. With a slightly different
spelling, this was the name of a riverboat that was the principal
asset of Captain Armstrong next to his favourite Duchess. It was
named for the young daughter of the earl of Stadbroke, and when it
was wrecked in 1899, Armstrong went on a two-year hiatus to the
Yukon. Thorington applied this name on the land, as he did with
several other Columbia River boats. This peak, however, had been
occupied by the GSC in 1912 and was consequently, but briefly,
called “Survey Peak” by Robinson in 1952.
Guendolin.
Harmon:
Mountain [2941m]; 1952; Starbird. Byron Harmon (1875-1942)
was the prime photographer of the Canadian Alps. Arriving in
Banff in 1903, he soon became an active participant in ACC
climbs and visited the Purcells in 1910 and 1911. His negatives
currently form one of the greatest and most informative treasures
of the Peter and Catherine Whyte Foundation (Whyte Museum of
the Canadian Rockies). His name was applied by Robinson.
Merioneth:
Peak [2667m]; 1969; Starbird. The name of a county in Wales was
applied here by West because the other names in this immediate
area all have Welsh origins.
North Star:
Peak [3124m]; Creek, Glacier; 1952; Starbird.
This was the name of one of the less effective sternwheelers plying
the upper Columbia River until 1914. Having been “smuggled”
across the border from the United States and through the remnants
of Baillie-Grohman’s canal, it was impounded for 10 years at
Golden and saw little actual use on the river. The boat was owned
by Armstrong, but the name was put here by Robinson, whose
good sense of local history was well applied in his travels through
these mountains.
Scotch Peaks:
[3033]; 1955; Starbird. Mike Sherrick gave the bulk of the names
in this group. Often considered pejorative, his overall term is now
usually limited to whisky. The Irish and Welsh groups are nearby.
References
Canadian Alpine Journal 1953 – page 71 to 82
Volume 36 (XXXVI)
In The Northern Purcells, 1952
By Peter Robinson
Canadian Alpine Journal 1956 – page 101
Volume 39 (XXXIX)
New Ascents and Various Expeditions – Scotch Peaks, Purcell Range
Canadian Alpine Journal 1970 – page 49 to 52
Volume 53
The Starbird Ridge: A Family Expedition in the Central Purcells By Robert West
Canadian Alpine Journal 1972 – page 122 to 123
Volume 55
Starbird Corrections By Andrew Gruft (CAJ Editor)
The Taurus Group (the Starbirds) By Arnor Larson
Canadian Alpine Journal 1973 – page 104
Volume 56
Mt. North Star By Roman Motyka
Canadian Alpine Journal 1976 – page 28 to 29
Volume 59
Black Fang: First Ascent of North West Ridge By Gunther Offermann
Canadian Alpine Journal 1991 – page 65 to 66
Volume 74
Starbird Ridge By Ken Little
Canadian Alpine Journal 1995 – page 77 to 78
Volume 78
ACC Starbird Camp By Jacqueline Louie
Columbia Valley Hut Society – Olive Hut
http://www.cvhsinfo.org
Climbing Routes
Route information is taken from the following climbing guidebooks.
A Climber’s Guide to the Interior Ranges of British Columbia – South
By Robert Kruszyna, William L. Putnam
Published by The American Alpine Club & The Alpine Club of Canada,
6th. Edition 1977.
Bivouac.com – The Canadian Mountain Encyclopedia - online hiking and
mountaineering guidebook with topo maps, and 5000 trip reports and photos. Covers all
Canada. http://www.bivouac.com
Assynt Peak
Mt Alpha Centauri
Black Fang
Mt. Camarthen
Mt. Galloway
Glamorgan Peak
Gwendoline
Mountain
Harlech Peak
Mt. Harmon
Merioneth Peak
North Star Peak
Oykel Peak
Scotch Peaks # 1
Scotch Peaks # 2
Scotch Peaks # 3
Scotch Peaks # 4
Scotch Peaks # 4
3005m
3094m
3002m
2941m
2972m
2727m
3124m
2636m
2941m
2667m
3124m
3004m
2972m
2972m
2941m
3003m
3003m
The ALPINE CLUB of CANADA
2013 General Mountaineering Camp
Scotch Peaks,
Purcell Mountains
First Ascent / New Routes
Date of Climb:
Name of Peak:
(Grid reference, elevation)
Location of Route:
(I.e. North Ridge, SW Face, etc.)
Members of Climbing Party:
Description of Route:
(Please include times for approach, climb, descend; approach used, nature of climbing,
grade of route, NCCS & YDS, gear required)
The ALPINE CLUB of CANADA
2013 General Mountaineering Camp
Scotch Peaks,
Purcell Mountains
Plant Observations
What (Species, color, health, size,
flowering, etc)
Where (Elevation, aspect)
Date