Rainforest on Kīlauea
The beautiful upland rainforest found in this area is near the summit of Kīlauea and is located in
the ahupua῾a of Keauhou. It is home of
abundant and diverse species and is located in
the wao akua, in the ma uka, where the clouds
embrace the forest. Here the akua (gods) and
῾aumakua (guardian ancestors) reside.
Traditionally, not everyone was allowed to
enter this sacred region, only selected
individuals, and even then access was only
granted for specific reasons. The area is the
home to numerous valuable resources such as
stones for tools, ash for garden soils, birds for
feathers, hardwoods for construction and
canoes, and many species of plants that have
Ki Manu, Bird Catcher and ‘I’iwi
multiple uses. Before entering the forest,
Hawaiians oli or chant to ask permission from the forest to enter before
gathering resources, state their good intentions, and ask for protection.
The plants you will most frequently encounter are ‘ōhi’a (Metrosideros
polymorpha), the dominant tree of the forest, and the tall tree fern
hāpu῾u (Cibotium spp). Other common native tree species are pilo
(Coprosma ochracea), kāwa῾u (Ilex amomala), koa (Acacia koa), kōlea
(Myrsine lessertiana), and ῾ōlapa (Cheirodendron trigynum). In parts
of the forest a recent invader, kāhili (Hedychium gardnerianum) ginger,
introduced from Southeast Asia, has spread rapidly and chokes out
native plants growing on the forest floor. Fortunately, efforts by park
staff and volunteers to control the ginger and other invasive plants in
this area are underway and are resulting in the recovery of native forest.
You will see a wide variety of native understory plants including the
native lily pa῾iniu (Astelia menziesiana), ῾ohe (Isachne distichophylla),
kūkaenēnē (Coprosma ernodeoides), and native ferns. Other invasive
plants in the area include introduced strawberry guava (Psidium
cattleianum), faya tree (Morella faya), and several grasses.
Ko'i, or adze, Hawaiian stone
tool
Two native honeycreepers, ῾apapane (Himatione sanguinea) and ῾amakihi (Hemignathus virens)
are abundant and are frequently observed among the ῾ōhi῾a lehua. ῾Ōma῾o or Hawaiian thrushes
(Myadestes obscurus) also abound in this area though are more frequently heard than seen. ῾Io
or Hawaiian hawks (Buteo solitarius) can be heard calling and sometimes seen soaring over the
treetops. Nēnē or Hawaiian geese (Branta sandvicensis) prefer more open areas, but they may
be seen or heard calling as they fly by, typically in the morning or late afternoon, in transit
between roosting and feeding sites. Many introduced birds also live in the rainforest. Kalij
pheasants (Lophura leucomelana) are common, coming out in to the open areas early in the
morning and late in the day. Some of the typical urban birds dwell near the buildings and
include myna (Acridotheres tristis), house sparrow (Passer domesticus), zebra and spotted doves
(Geopelia striata and Streptopelia chinensis) as well as house and saffron finches (Carpodacus
mexicanus and Sicalis flaveola). Other introduced birds live the forest such as the tiny Japanese
white-eye (Zosterops japonicus), the northern cardinal (Cardinalis cardinalis) and the hwamei or
melodious laughing thrush (Garrulax canorus).
The Hawaiian hoary bat or ῾ōpe῾ape῾a (Lasiurus cinereus semotus), Hawai῾i’s only native land
mammal, may be roosting in this area however, because they are nocturnal you will not likely
see one. Several introduced mammals live in the rainforest including mongooses (Herpestes
auropunctatus), rats (Rattus spp.), and cats (Felis catus), all of which prey on native birds and
insects. Rats also eat seeds and fruits of native plants. Feral pigs (Sus scrofa) also dwell in the
rainforests and destroy native habitat by rooting up and eating plants.
Many insects can be found in this forest; some prefer a single species of plant (specialized) while
others live on or near several different plants (generalists). You may see a hāpu῾u weevil
(Coleoptera; Aglycyderidae; Proterhinus ferrugineus), a cixiid leafhopper (Hemiptera; Cixiidae;
Oliarus sp.), an ῾ōhi῾a bud moth (Lepidoptera; Carposinidae; Carposina sp.), a sword-tail cricket
(Orthoptera; Gryllidae; Trigonidium sp.), a carnivorous caterpillar (Lepidoptera; Geometridae;
Eupithecia sp.) or even a happy face spider (Araneae; Theridiidae; Theridion grallator).
In the past and continuing today, many Hawaiians visit this rainforest and Kīlauea summit area
for various reasons, to collect resources or to pay homage to Pele-houna-mea, the volcano deity.
In 1823 the first westerner came to this region. William Ellis, a missionary stationed on the Big
Island, traveled through the summit of Kīlauea as he
circumnavigated the island. Ellis and his party traveled from
Kona towards the south through Ka'ū, eventually making their
way to the Caldera, passing through the Kīlauea Iki and
Keanakāko'i Craters. After spending some time in the area
they descended down to the ancient village of Kealakomo and
towards the Puna Coast, continuing their journey around the
island from there. Ellis’s journal left behind invaluable
descriptions of Hawaiian cultural practices, natural resources,
Hawaiian legends and archeological sites. His descriptions of
Kīlauea and his experiences in the lands of what is now the
Park have provided a wealth of information regarding what
life and the landscape was like in the region during that time.
Reverend William Ellis
As time went on, more westerners would come to Hawai'i and the Kīlauea summit started to
draw more and more interest in the mid to late 1800s due to the natural beauty and the active
volcanism. Vacationers and scientists were drawn to view, experience and study one of the
world’s most active and accessible volcano. This, in part, led to the eventual establishment of
what was then called Hawai῾i National Park in 1916. In the early days of the park there was
limited infrastructure and development was slow due to lack of funds and work force. However,
a program started in 1933 called the Civilian Conservation Corps (CCC) helped to facilitate
development and provided the man power to construct many of the park’s building, trails, rock
walls, road berms, comfort stations, and roads that you see today.
CCC Camp, 1934
As you can see there are many layers of history and interesting stories related to this beautiful
rainforest that is home to such diverse and unique species of birds, plant, and insects.
Ellis, William. 2004. Journal of William Ellis, A Narrative of an 1823 Tour Through Hawai’i.
With Remarks on the History, Traditions, Manners, Customs and Language of the Inhabitants of
the Sandwich Islands. Mutual Publishing, Honolulu, HI.
Paman, Joylynn.2010. Our Ahupua'a- Sustainable Living in Traditional Hawaiian Culture.
Conservation Council for Hawaii. www.conservehi.org, electronic document, accessed
4/28/2015.
Roper, Summer. 2005. Hilina Pali 2005. The Civilian Conservation Corps, An Archeological
Inventory Survey of the Hilina Pali Erosion Control Project of 1940. Publications in
Anthropology, Hawai’i Volcanoes National Park.