Hillside Gardening Gardening Newsletter Vol. 10, Issue 11 - November 2015 The design of a hillside garden is influenced by its steepness, stability, soils, microclimates, existing plant material and costs. Planning such a garden starts with a detailed topographical survey (imperative for slope calculations and cross-section drawings) along with soil samples. Instability, a concern on steep slopes, is often indicated by surface soil cracks, debris accumulation at the slope's base and trees and fences leaning downslope. There are a variety of landscape options. One is the "do nothing or very little" approach. This works if the existing slope is gentle and stable with healthy vegetative coverage. Often all that's needed is judicious pruning to open selected views, removal of aggressive vines such as wild grape and wild cucumber, and the creation of paths for access and maintenance. Steep, sunny, stable hillsides could be left to low-growing, deeply rooted, infrequently mown grasses. Root-spreading ornamental grasses (Volume 7, Issue 7) can be planted in broad bands to provide further soil anchorage while adding striking form, texture and animation. If you have youngsters, consider leaving a portion of the grass slope open as a play area. Alternatively, your slope could be planted with groundcovers such as fragrant creeping thyme (Thymus spp.), moss phlox (Phlox subulata), ajuga, sedums, barrenwort (Epimedium spp.), purple wintercreeper (Euonymus fortunei 'Coloratus'), heaths and heathers, and low-spreading junipers. 1/6 www.leevalley.com Hillside Gardening Gardening Newsletter Vol. 10, Issue 11 - November 2015 Unstable hillsides that exhibit erosion and drainage problems are the most challenging. Their conversion to usable garden space may involve moving earth to create terraces supported by retaining walls. Brush cuttings, contour wattling, planted gabion baskets (stone and cobble filled wire baskets) and geogrid systems may also be considered. Drainage may take the form of diversion berms and ditches that direct runoff away from problem areas to interceptor drains. The advice of experienced professionals along with various permits is often required. While costly, terraces provide relatively flat areas supported by retaining structures. These are made accessible by paths, stairs and ramps. A series of terraces can accommodate different garden functions (e.g. a wildflower garden, play area, vegetable garden, bird habitat, etc.) that take advantage of various microclimates. Retaining walls, which stand out, should, for harmony and unity, be constructed from materials used elsewhere onsite (e.g. stone, timber, precast concrete) and softened with trailing plants. The effect is that each terrace, flanked and screened by maturing plantings, becomes a hillside garden room. 2/6 www.leevalley.com Hillside Gardening Gardening Newsletter Vol. 10, Issue 11 - November 2015 Where bedrock comes to the surface of a sunny exposed hillside, which is often the case at cottage and country properties, a different type of hillside garden is necessary. Vines and creepers can be planted at the top of the slope and allowed to cascade, adding color, texture and pattern. These could include Virginia creeper (Parthenocissus quinquefolia), bigleaf wintercreeper (Euonymus fortunei var. vegetus), creeping bearberries (Arctostaphylos spp.), cotoneasters and weeping forsythia (Forsythia suspensa). Conversely, bittersweet vine (Celastrus scandens), virgin’s bower clematis (Clematis virginiana) and hardy climbing roses could be trained on wire or plastic netting to ascend the slope. Cracks, crevices and holes in the rock face can be filled with sempervivums, miniature sedums, ferns, rock cress (Arabis spp.), pinks (Dianthus spp.) and moss phlox. Furthermore, where bedrock forces ground water to the surface, a bog garden is a possibility. Lastly, a sunny, rocky slope could become a rock garden featuring alpine and scree plants. This option is sometimes implemented on reverse-slope lots (the rear yard slopes toward the house). To avoid having the rocks and boulders overpower the plants, bury the rocks up to half of their depth and have roughly the same surface area of rocks compared to planting pockets. These pockets, depending on their exposure and soils, could favor a diversity of interesting alpines including Gentiana, Saxifraga, Lewisia, Dianthus and Arenaria species. 3/6 www.leevalley.com Hillside Gardening Gardening Newsletter Vol. 10, Issue 11 - November 2015 Design Considerations The design of a hillside garden benefits from a top-down and bottom-up approach to maximize views. Top-of-slope views are generally panoramic, capturing the larger surrounding landscape. Bottom-up and cross-slope views focus on the slope’s features and plantings. Paths, stairs and ramps are the organizing backbone of the hillside garden. They can be used to control views, direct movement and facilitate the maintenance of and provide safe passage to landings, observation decks and hillside gazebos. Stairs, which often stand out, can be made less visually imposing by setting them at an angle to the slope and softening the edges using low plantings. Landings should occur where paths change direction and at terrace locations. With paths, avoid straight-up-the-hill alignments. Instead, position the path gently meandering up the slope, which makes it appear more natural and user friendly. Path material can vary widely from wood chips and crushed stone to flagstone and precast paving units. Pay particular attention to the material’s slip resistance. Lighting is a real asset for safety and security. A hillside garden offers the opportunity to incorporate some special features such as a cascading stream with waterfalls and naturalistic pools. When built adjacent to paths, these features add focal points, mystery, animation and sound, and attract birds. Be sure to confirm any permit requirements with your municipality. 4/6 www.leevalley.com Hillside Gardening Gardening Newsletter Vol. 10, Issue 11 - November 2015 Planting An inventory of existing slope vegetation is necessary to assess species performance, slope coverage, plant biodiversity, habitat value and possible new plantings. Hillside plantings frequently rely on mass plantings for both impact and root-holding soil stability. Plantings parallel to the slope’s contours help direct views across the breadth of the slope, making it seem larger and more interesting. Avoid straight-line plantings in favor of more natural gently meandering ones. Use plant species that are also found in adjacent tablelands to visually unite the areas. Plants with arching and drooping forms are well suited for hillsides, as they stand out when viewed from below. Check out shrubs such as cutleaf stephanandra (Stephanandra incisa ‘Crispa’), beautybush (Linnaea amabilis), bridal wreath spirea (Spiraea x vanhouttei) and bush clover (Lespedeza spp). Popular slope perennials include Solomon’s seal (Polygonatum biflorum), rose twisted stalk (Streptopus roseus) and various native ferns. Pay close attention to their predicted height and spread at maturity and be sure to confirm plant hardiness. Selected plants need to quickly establish themselves and preferably have dense foliage to intercept erosive raindrops. Both may be achieved by denser original plantings. Plants that clone rapidly by spreading roots, such as trembling aspen (Populus tremuloides), sumac (Rhus spp.), chokeberry (Aronia spp.), Japanese kerria (Kerria japonica), Saskatoon serviceberry (Amelanchier alnifolia) and various shrub dogwoods, are cornerstones of many naturalized hillside plantings. Coppicing (pruning trunks almost to ground level) encourages some of these shrubs to send up new spreading basal stems. Large drift and block plantings of rhododendrons and azaleas light up many slopes with their abundant colorful spring blooms and attractive summer foliage. When planted on hillsides, ensure that these plants take advantage of positive drainage, partial shade and frost-free pockets. Hedges may be required on the flanks of the hill to lessen wind exposure for these colorful species. 5/6 www.leevalley.com Hillside Gardening Gardening Newsletter Vol. 10, Issue 11 - November 2015 When planting trees and shrubs on slopes, dig a planting hole two to three times the width of the root ball and use the excavated soil to build a rim on the downhill side of the hole. This helps deflect runoff water into the planting area. Bare-root cuttings called whips spread quickly by creeping root. These can be wrapped in newspaper containing soil and fertilizer and inserted into slope holes. On larger sites, phase the plantings to allow time to monitor results and make changes if required. Seepage areas along slopes where moisture oozes to the surface lend themselves to moistureloving sponge plants. These might include skunk cabbage (Symplocarpus foetidus), marsh marigolds (Caltha palustris), Japanese candelabra primula (Primula japonica), rodgersia, umbrella leaf (Darmera peltata), hostas and various ferns. On dry, sunny slopes, you can plant many fine drought-tolerant xeriscape plants (Volume 7, Issue 5). Hillside gardening is not maintenance free. Establishing new hillside plantings can prove challenging and may require the use of soaker hoses and drip-type irrigation and the addition of mulches and erosion-control mats. Invasive, weedy plants such as coltsfoot (Tussilago farfara), dog-strangling vine, horsetail (Equisetum spp.), bracken fern (Pteridium aquilinum), wild cucumber (Echinocystis lobata), garlic mustard (Alliaria petiolata) and common buckthorn (Rhamnus cathartica) can quickly take over a hillside garden. Due diligence is required to remove offenders. You’ll also need to continually monitor the hillside plant communities. Gardens built on hillsides are spectacular and rewarding but developing them does pose challenges. Those who have created such gardens cherish their special features and beauty. I hope this article will prove helpful to those about to tackle this exciting endeavor. Text by Frank Kershaw Photos by Marnie Wright Frank Kershaw is an award-winning horticulturist with more than 35 years of experience. He teaches garden design and horticultural courses at George Brown College in Toronto and at the Toronto Botanical Garden. Frank is also a seminar presenter at the Toronto Lee Valley stores. Marnie Wright ([email protected]) is a lifelong gardener, writer and passionate garden photographer. Her Rocksborough Garden, developed over 30 years, is located in Bracebridge, Ontario. 6/6 www.leevalley.com
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