Joep Leerssen

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The symbolical and political investment of the Rhine
A Dutch perspective
Joep Leerssen
The Rhine disappears in Holland. Immediately after crossing the Dutch border, near
Nijmegen, it begins to branch out into what is known as the Dutch Delta. Its main
branch changes its name to Waal,while a side branch flowing past Arnhem is called the
Nederrijn or “Lower Rhine”. The Waal mingles its waters with those of the Maas or Meuse
and, after changings its name to Merwede between Dordrecht and Rotterdam flows into
the sea through many mouths and under various names. The Nederrijn for its part
changes its name to Lek near Utrecht and reaches the Rotterdam harbour by a different
bed. Along the way, various small side rivers are fed from this delta, such as the Vecht
flowing from Utrecht to Amsterdam, and no less than two rivers called the IJssel (one in
the east, the other in the west of the country). And a number of old, minor branches
keep the name of Rhine, such as the Kromme Rijn the Vaartse Rijn, the Leidse Rijn and the
Oude Rijn. The Rhine dissolves in the Netherlands, it is everywhere and nowhere.
For that reason, perhaps, the Rhine never became an identity focus for Holland
as it did for Germany.1 To be sure, the nation’s greatest poet, Joost van den Vondel,
wrote a baroque-metaphysical ode to the Rhine (1620), apostrophizing it in terms like
these:
You tireless millwheel-driver
City-builder, ship-carrier
Realm’s frontier and guardian in peril,
Wine-spender, ferryman, bank-gnawer
Paper-miller, give me paper
For me to write your glories onto:
Your waters spark my fire.2
1
merely mention in passing the long meditative poem “Aan den Rhijn in de lente van het jaar
1820” by Elias Borger, which had some popularity in the nineteenth century as a recitation
piece but only uses the riverbank setting for what is in fact an elegy on the death of his wife
and child.
2
O onvermoeide molenaer, / O stedebouwer, schepedraeger, / O rijxgrens, schermheer in
1
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Vondel then celebrates the river, which he surveys from Basel (where Erasmus lies
buried) by way of Cologne (where he himself was born) to Holland, praising it as the
fount of Holland’s historical glories and present-day affluence, and praying for an end to
the violence of the Thirty Years’ War.
But ah! I cry my eyes out
and shall myself turn into a stream
because of this Hydra that proliferates
from religious strife and dynastic hatred
a hellish Hydra full of venom
poisoning the Rhine’s sweet and wholesome banks
and tearing all of the German Empire
and thriving in unpardoned murders.
May a long-awaited Deliverer sweep
the Empire clean of the Empire’s damned plague.
Even in 1620, Vondel is thematizing the river as something that both unites and divides,
a line of communication and a battle frontier; following the enumeration of side rivers
contributing to the Rhine’s mighty sweep, from Main and Moselle to Lippe and Ruhr, the
ramifying “Hydra” image evokes the river’s branchings and divisions before it reaches
the sea.3
When Vondel wrote this poem, Holland was a contested borderland on the outer
edge of Germany: Charles V had begun to loosen the ties between the “Burgundian
Circle” and the Holy Roman Empire by stressing its status as a Habsburg dynastic
lordship, and, on his abdication, by entrusting its suzerainty to Philip II, King of Spain.
In the Treaty of Westphalia (1648, 28 years after Vondel’s poem), the northern half was
gevaer, / Wijnschencker, veerman, oeverknaeger, / Papieremaecker, schaf papier, / Daer ick
uw glori op magh schryven, / Vw water dat ontvonckt mijn vier. (Vondel: “Aen den
Rynstroom”, 1620; full text online at the Digitale Bibliotheek voor de Nederlandse Letteren,
www.dbnl.org).
3
Maer, och! ick schrey mijn oogen uit, / En sal noch in een' vliet verkeeren, / Om datter sulck
een Hydra spruit / Wt kerckgeschil en haet van Heeren; / Een helsche Hydra vol vergift, / Die
's Rijns gesonde en soete boorden / Vergiftight, en gants Duitschland schift, / En groeit in
onversoenbre moorden. / Een lang gewenst Verlosser vaegh / Het Rijck van 's Rijcks
vervloeckte plaegh.
2
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taken out of the Empire as an independent Republic, the southern half confirmed as a
Habsburg fief - first under the Spanish branch, later under the Austrian branch.
Under Napoleon, the Low Countries were caught up in France’s drive for a
natural Rhine frontier. A puppet Kingdom of Holland was established in 1806, similar to
the Kingdom of Westphalia and similarly governed by a Bonaparte brother, and the
entire country was annexed in 1810 as “a sediment of French rivers”. Meanwhile,
however, the Prince of Orange-Nassau, heir to the dynasty’s near-hereditary
Stadholdership of the Dutch provinces, was already plotting for a return in power
following Napoleon’s downfall. Prince Willem had the ear of Castlereagh and was
preparing for a restauration of his erstwhile possessions.
With the support of his English allies,4 Willem developed claims on practically
the entire Burgundian circle. He envisaged for himself a country (bumped up to the
status of Kingdom) bordered in the South by the line Dunkirk-Luxemburg-TrierKoblenz, and in the East by the Rhine from Koblenz to Kleve and thence north along
the 1648 frontier. The Rhine was to become for much of its course a Dutch border river;
and all this rationalized partly by geopolitics - to create a strong middle-sized power
containing France from the Ardennes to the Channel - but based largely on dynastic
delusions of grandeur.
In the event, Willem was to get much, though not all, of his Middle Kingdom. He
obtained the territory of what is nowadays the Benelux, but had to share military control
of the Luxemburg citadel with Prussia. Prussia itself gained the Rhineland Province. Like
most compromises, this arrangement provided for an equal distribution of
dissatisfaction. Holland now acquired a large southern extension which it wanted to
govern but with which it was not prepared to merge, and entered upon an uncomfortable
marriage of convenience that failed disastrously in 1830. And its control over the Rhine
delta created sore feelings both in France and in Germany.
In France, the drive for a natural Rhine frontier was, together with the metric
system of weights and measures, one of those things which survived the country’s regime
changes intact. The Bourbon minister Polignac was as firm in his ultimate desire for the
Rhine frontier, even in the 1820s, as Vauban, Danton and Napoleon had been; and
indeed it is to be stressed that the Rhine crisis of 1840 did not appear out of nowhere,
4
For most of what follows, I am indebted to N.C.F. van Sas, Onze natuurlijkste bondgenoot:
Nederland, Engeland en Europa, 1813-1831 (Groningen: Wolters-Noordhoff, 1985).
3
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but was the manifestation of a long-standing tension. Two episodes in that tension need
to be highlighted here, because they involve the Netherlands: the period 1813-1815 and
the Belgian Secession of 1830. The former saw the geopolitical tug-of-war around the
various frontiers of a Restored Europe, with the Rhine as one of the bones of
contention. It was in this context that Ernst Moritz Arndt wrote his fateful Der Rhein,
Teutschlands Strom, nicht Teutschlands Gränze. While the main focus of Arndt’s vehement
insistence on German claims to the Rhineland concerned the Alsatian situation and
Strasbourg, there were already hints that the lower reaches of the Rhine were as
important to him as the rover’s upper parts. The Empire’s loss, in 1648, of both the
Swiss Cantons and the Dutch Provinces, was equally irksome to him, and he also claimed
(like the Prince of Orange) a Luxembourg-Dunkirk borderline, albeit not for a new
Netherlands, but for a reconstituted Germany. There are statements by other Romantic
Germanists of this generation, men such as Hoffmann von Fallersleben and Jacob
Grimm, indicating that he was far from alone in these views.5 Holland, in this view, was a
German border province which owing to regrettable historical accidents had drifted away
from the heartland but which the course of history should reconnect to its true
appurtenance.
The hegemonic attitude from Germany saw this state (astutely enough) as an
artificial contrivance doomed to failure. While France coveted the Rhine for its eastern
frontier, certain German circles saw the Meuse as the ideal western frontier (a view
echoed in the “Von der Maas bis an die Memel”, in Hoffmann von Fallerslebens “Lied
der Deutschen”), and Holland was wedged in amidst those overlapping irredentisms. The
border between the Netherlands and the Prussian Rhine Province had been designed
expressely, in certain places, to keep Prussia away from the Meuse by the length of one
cannon shot; and Holland’s control of the Rhine irked Germans no less than the French.
For, as a compromise, the river, even if it had not become “Teutschlands Strom”
altogether, had been internalionalized by forbidding any tolls along its entire length, thus
opening its potential as a pan-German shipping artery. However, the Dutch argued that
indeed the Rhine disappears in Holland, and whereas the Rhine toll treaty stipulated toll
5
Ulrike Kloos, Niederlandbild und deutsche Germanistik, 1800-1933. Ein Beitrag zur
komparatistischen Imagologie (Amsterdam: Rodopi, 1995); my own De bronnen van het
vaderland: Taal, literatuur en de afbakening van Nederland, 1806-1890 (Nijmegen: Vantilt,
2006).
4
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freedom jusqu’à la mer - which for Germans meant: up to and including the maritime port
of Rotterdam - the Dutch claimed Rotterdam toll rights because the Rhine was no longer
the Rhine there, and jusqu’à la mer should not be read as jusque dans la mer... This attitude
caused massive irritation in Germany; the phrase jusqu’à la mer became a bitter
catchphrase in German politics (we see it used even in the Frankfurt parliament of 1848),
and Holland was seen in some circles as a dour, stolid stopper blocking Germany’s access
to the high sea, rather than as a buffer against France.6
Matters came to a head in 1830, when anti-Dutch liberal riots in Brussels escalated into a
full-blown secession movement. The Belgian Revolt came hot on the heels of increasing
French gestures towards a Rhineward expansionism: the weakening of the Ottoman
Empire, so it was argued in late-1820s France, would create an Eastern power vacuum
which, in a domino effect, would allow all European powers to find a new equilibrium by
expanding at their eastern frontier, ending with France gaining its Rhine objective.7
Accordingly, the Belgian secession from the Netherlands was universally seen as part of
this French expansionism. The new government in Brussels was pro-French, the new
Liberal government in Paris was pro-Belgian, and the Franco-Belgian axis meant that the
French sphere of influence now extended almost to Trier, Aachen and
Mönchengladbach (for the Province of Limburg from Maastricht to Venlo had gone
along with the Belgian secession; it was transferred back to Holland in 1839 partly as a
move to keep Belgium away from the Lower Rhine).
Arndt reacted immediately with two pamphlets restating, in even more forceful
tones, his arguments of 1813: Die Frage über die Niederlande und die Rheinlande (1831) and
Belgien und was daran hängt (1834). For observers like Grimm, the Dutch-Belgian split
signalled a future redivision where France would extend its sphere of influence
northward to Brussels, and Germany its sphere of influence westward to Gent.
Accordingly, we see an intense preoccupation among nationalistically-minded Vormärz
6
For German attitudes to Holland against this backdrop, see N.C.F. van Sas, "«Jusqu'à la
mer». Vrijheid en onvrijheid aan de Rijn", in Leven met Duitsland. Opstellen over
geschiedenis en politiek aangeboden aan Maarten Brands, ed. H. Beliën et al. (Amsterdam:
Van Oorschot, 1998): 272-93. More generally, the “classic” which stands as an inspiration
behind the work both of Vas Sas and of myself: J.C. Boogman, Nederland en de Duitse Bond,
1815-1851 (2 vols; Groningen: Wolters, 1955).
7
Thus the Oriental Crisis triggering the Rhine Crisis in 1840 was already pre-rehearsed in
1826-1829. Van Sas, Onze natuurlijkste bondgenoot, 286-290, and sources cited there,
should be used as the backdrop for reading French and German reactions to the Belgian
secession of 1830, cf. Leerssen, Bronnen,
5
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Romantics to cultivate friendly ties with Flanders, which from that moment onwards
came to be considered an exposed western bulwark against French culture. Gustav
Höfken, who, with Arndt, was a delegate at the Frankfurt Parliament, was operative in
seeing Flanders as the outermost extension of the German Rhine delta and in fraternally
lending Germanic support to Flanders in its struggle against French domination.8 One
particularly strong tie was that of choral socities: German male choirs from the
Rhineland were welcome guests at Flemish festivals, e.g. in Gent, while Flemish choirs
were present at the Cologne choral festival of 1846. Höfken described that Flemish
Wacht am Rhein as follows:
[While, during the opening of the French-Belgian railway in Lille, all thoughts
turned on a French-Belgian union], singers from the Rhine, from the Odenwald,
from all of Germany as far north as Schleswig-Holstein, accompanied their
Belgian brethren to the house of old Ernst Moritz Arndt, to the Drachenfels, to
the Victory Monument of the Rhine Crossing of 1814, and in united voices sang
before the world [the closing lines of Arndts Was ist des Deutschen Vaterland]:
“That is what is should be, that is what is must be, Germany entire it should be!”
While the official speeches of Lille and Brussels preened themselves, two
thousand forthright men sang a reply: “Germany entire it should be!” The spirit
will unite, and although a song will no more conquer countries than that iron
railways will fetter them, and although a song will win no battles, yet it may
render them superfluous, which is perhaps an even greater thing; in any case, we
have felt the power of German song.9
8
Generally, H.W. von der Dunk, Der deutsche Vormärz und Belgien, 1830-1848 (Wiesbaden:
Steiner, 1966).
9
Gustav Höfken, Vlämisch-Belgien (2 vols; Bremen: Schlodtmann, 1847), 2: 297. In the
original: [...] es war ein eigenes Zusammentreffen, daß das Fest zur Eröffnung der
französischen Nordeisenbahn an denselben Tagen mit dem vlämisch-deutschen Gesangfeste
in Köln stattfand. In Lille und Brüssel hielt der Börsenkönig Rothschild, der Erbauer der
Eisenbahn, glänzenden Hof; in Köln herrschten schlichter Gesang und Volkslust. Dort drehten
sich alle Reden um den einen Gedanken: Union zwischen Frankreich und Belgien; hier
brachten die Sänger vom Rhein, vom Odenwalde, aus ganz Deutschland bis nach SchleswigHolstein hinauf, die belgischen Brüder vor das Haus des greisen Moritz Arndt, führten sie
nach dem Drachenfels, nach dem Siegesdenkmal des Übergangs über den Rhein (1814),
und sangen vereint in die Welt hinaus: «Das soll es sein, das muß es sein, das ganze
Deutschland soll es sein!» Auf die Redensarten in Lille und Brüssel, die, so schön sie
konnten, auf Stelzen gingen, sangen zur Antwort am Rhein zweitausend schlichte Männer:
«Das ganze Deutschland soll es sein!» Der Geist vereint, und wenn man mit einem Lied
keine Länder erobert – so wenig als man sie mit eisernen Schienen fesselt – und keine
6
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A pivotal figure in this Flemish-Rhinelandic connection was the poet Prudens Van
Duyse, whose cantata closing one of these festivals ended as follows:
Come on, Belgian and German, stand together
For freedom, language and Fatherland!
Let the banner of the Flemish and the German Choral Union
Be proudly displayed on Gent’s field of gold!
We want to be free like the eagle
Who proudly soars on his own wings
And who will admit only one caress: that of the sun.
Our sun is the fatherland
And where is the fatherland of the German nation?
Wherever the language of the Germanic tribes
Is raised, flourishes and delights the people
There lies our fatherland10
The echoes of Arndt’s “Was ist des Deutschen Vaterland”, already thematized so heavily
in Höfkens prose, are obvious to anyone who can manage to read through to the closing
lines. All in all, the link between Flemish national romanticism and Rhenian geopolitics is
obvious, a final example being this poem from the Flemish poet Victor dela Montagne
which is a remarkable example of late-nineteenth-century Rhine kitsch in Flemish form.
A true old German tavern, singing “Burschen” on the linden tree bench
A blonde maid on the doorstep, and vines trailing around the wooden wall
Smoke-stained beams in the interior, a firm brown-tinted twilight
And a stray sunbeam playing over mug and pint
Schlachten gewinnt, so kann es sie doch vielleicht überflüssig machen, und das ist noch
mehr. Wir nur fühlen des deutschen Liedes Kraft.”
10
Welaan, Germaan en Belg te zaam ten strijd / Voor vrijheid, taal en Vaderland! / De vaan
van ’t Duitsche en Vlaamsche Zangverbond / Praal’ op ’t Gentse eregoud! / Wij willen vrij zijn
als de adelaar / Die stout op eigen wieken drijft / Voor wien er slechts één’ koestring is: de
zon. / Onz’ zon is ’t Vaderland. / En waer is ’t Vaderland des Duitschen stams? / Alom waar
der Germanen tael / Zich heft en bloeit en ’t volk verrukt / Daar is ons Vaderland. Quoted
7
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Blue tobacco clouds, and a cat purring by the fireplace
And from the walls three faces gravely look down upon the silent host:
Field Marshall Blücher, Kaiser Wilhelm and Old Fritz
Men of steel and iron, a green-laureled hero-triad.
We sit near the open windows, and in our tall slender glasses
The blonde, sacred wine shimmers in pearls, rays and sparks.
The waves of the old Rhine flow like melting silver
The mountain-tops glow in the purle-red sunset
In the valley way down below, a lad sings full of yearning
And deep, stately peace eddies silently over the blue expanse.11
And in Holland? Here, too, the Rhine stood for Romanticism. The Romantic movement
has long been unnoticed in Dutch literary history, to the point even that Dutch literary
historians long maintained that Romanticism failed to take hold in Dutch literature, or
that, as the saying goes, it flapped its wings, but never took flight. That judgement
reflected a lack of vision among literary historians rather than a lack of Romanticism in
Dutch literature, and in recent decades much has been done to set the record straight.
One of the Romantic manifestos in Dutch has been highlighted in particular. It dates
from 1831, was written by the critic Jacob Geel, has the form of a philosophical dialogue
and is set... on the Drachenfels.12
Leerssen, De bronnen.
11
“Een echte oudduitse taveerne, / zingende ‘Burschen’ ter lindebank, / op de drempel een
blonde deerne, / om ’t houten geveltje wingerdrank; // van binnen gerookte balken, / een
krachtig bruine schemertint, / en een zonnestraal, de schalke, / die dartelt over kroes en pint. /
/ De tabakswolken blauwen. / Poes spint er bij de koele haard; / en van de wanden schouwen
/ diep ernstig op de zwijgende waard, / / Feldmarschall’ Blücher en keizer / Wilhelm en der
alte Fritz, / mannen van staal en ijzer, / een groenomlauwerde heldentrits. // Wij zitten bij de
open vensters, en in de romers slank en rank / strooit parels, stralen en gensters / de blonde
wijn, de heilige drank. // Als smeltend zilver vloeien / de golven van de oude Rijn, / der bergen
toppen gloeien / in purperrode avondschijn; // in ’t dal wel verre beneden, / klinkt stil
weemoedig het knapenlied, / en diepe, statige vrede / wiegt zwijgend over het blauw
verschiet...” Quoted Leerssen, De Bronnen.
12
The Dutch comparatist and literary historian Willem van den Berg has done much to
8
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Geel’s Conversation on the Drachenfels (“Gesprek op den Drachenfels”)13 tries to distinguish
what Thomas De Quincey would call “the literature of knowledge and the literature of
power”, and thus forms part of the Romantic debate about the power of language to
represent and the power of the poet to imagine. The respective poetical positions - the
dictates of veracity vs. the power of imagination - are represented by “Diocles” and
“Charinus”, both professors at Bonn university (in real life: Geel’s acquaintances Karl
Friedrich Heinrich and August Ferdinand Naeke). The positions taken in this debate
need not concern us in detail; more intriguing in the present context is the fact that
“romantic” is linked specifically to congenially sublime landscapes described, invoked or
imagined by the poet. Textual references are specifically to Schiller, and his Swiss
landscape description in Wilhelm Tell, Byrons Mazeppa and of course his Childe Harold
which explicitly evokes “the castled crag of Drachenfels”.
The Drachenfels is itself, of course, deployed as an example of the power of
description to evoke a landscape - an elegant mise en abyme where Geel’s discourse itself
exemplifies what it thematizes. The ascent of the Drachenfels follows the route of the
Eselweg, by then already fixed in the tourist trade, and the first thing the company meet is
an English tourist seated on an ass, very much as in Bulwer-Lytton’s description of The
Pilgrims of the Rhine (1834). Indeed, boat trips upstream to the Siebengebirge were to
become a popular Dutch tourist enterprise. The penchant for German Rhine
romanticism in Holland seems to follow the curve of English interest as traced in
Günther Blaichers Das Deutschlandbild in der englischen Literatur of 1992. An example of its
persistence as gesunkenes Kulturgut is furnished by the music-hall song Een reisje langs den
Rijn (Louis Davids, 1906), which has remained popular throughout the twentieth century
despite two world wars.14
retrieve the idea that there was, in fact, a Dutch participation in European Romanticism, and
has drawn attention to Geel’s “Gesprek op den Drachenfels”. Cf. his De ontwikkeling van de
term ‘romantisch’ en zijn varianten in Nederland tot 1840 (Assen: Van Gorcum, 1973);
"«Onze poëzie is 'reëel' en 'praktisch'». Het denken over de identiteit van de Nederlandse
letterkunde in de eerste helft van de negentiende eeuw", in «Typisch Nederlands»: De
Nederlandse identiteit in de letterkunde, ed. K. Enenkel et al. (Voorthuizen: Florivallis, 1999):
149-62; Een bedachtzame beeldenstorm, ed. Klaus Beekman et al. (Amsterdam University
Press, 1999).
13
Full text available online on the Digitale Bibliotheek voor de Nederlandse Letteren
(www.dbnl.org), following the 1968 edition of J.C. Brandt Cortius; I have made grateful use of
Brandt Corstius’ editorial annotations and clarifications.
14
“We won from the lottery a nice little tip, I said to my friends, join me for a pleasant trip; they
suggested Brussels, or Paris or London, but I said: “Come on! We’ll be fine with a trip along
the Rhine!” And before you knew it we were all aboard... [Chorus, on the melody of Berliner
9
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The last word should be given to Jacob Geel. His romantic Gradus ad Parnassum
continues up the slopes of the Drachenfels amidst ever more romantic views over the
valley and the surrounding mountains, the medieval ruin, and the legends of Rolandseck
and of the dragon which was ousted by a maiden’s steadfast Christian belief. However,
the Drachenfels is also the sentinel mid-way point between the delights of the Romantic
imagination and the dull flat plains of Dutch realism: it is here, that Father Rhine
emerges from the land of Loreleys and medieval ruins to commence his bored, sullen
meanderings through flat fields. That at least was the point that had been made by
Ludolf Wienbarg in his Holland in den Jahren 1831 und 1832, which had appeared in 1833,
and which provided an important repoussoir for Geel’s treatise. For the time was after all,
that of the years dominated by the Belgian secession and German digruntlement over the
Rotterdam tolls at the mouths of the Rhine jusqu’à la mer. Fittingly and subtly, therefore,
the peak of this German-romantic mountain is reached with reference to the influence of
France.
Symbolically, even the battle of literary fashions becomes a German-French
confrontation fought on the Rhine. Diocles bitterly denounces a modern tendency to
describe reality only in its gruesomeness, to describe the eating of bread as a disgusting
list of details concerning chewing, swallowing, spittle, dirty teeth and bad breath. The
Dutch tourist exclaims
“In heaven’s name, Diocles, stop! [...] my stomach is turning”
“I cannot help it,” he replied: this is the French romantic school. Do not gag: your
country is beginning to celebrate it.” “ Oh no!,” I exclaimed, “maybe an isolated
fool...” But Diocles had begun the descent, with Charinus following him. The sun
had set, and the Rhine-mists rose higher. The entire landscape vista became
Luft:] Yes, a trip along the Rhine, Rhine Rhine, evenings in the moonshine, shine, shine; with
a tasty mug of beer, beer, beer we can steer steer steer on the river, -ver, -ver. On one of
those newfangled boats, boats, boats, in the cabin below deck, deck, deck; o how fashionable
and fine fine fine, such a trip along the Rhine!”
In the original: “Laatst trokken we uit de loterij / Een aardig prijsje, / 'k Zei tot mijn vrienden:
'Maak met mij / Een aardig reisje.' / Die wou naar Brussel of Parijs, / Die weer naar Londen, /
'Vooruit!' riep ik, 'wij maken fijn / Een reisje langs den Rijn!' / In een wip, sakkerloot, / Zat het
clubje op de boot! [Refrein:] Ja, zoo'n reisje langs den Rijn, Rijn, Rijn, / 's Avonds in den
maneschijn, schijn, schijn, / Met een lekker potje bier, bier, bier, / Aan den zwier, zwier,
zwier, / Op d'rivier, vier, vier! / Zoo'n reisje met een nieuwerwetsche schuit, schuit, schuit, /
Allemaal in de kajuit, juit, juit, / 't Is zoo deftig, 't is zoo fijn, fijn, fijn, / Zoo een reisje langs den
Rijn.”
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sombre and awe-inspiring.
As we hastened down, nothing more was said; for descending from such heights
is a speedy business. As we were ferried across the Rhine, the conversation was
hampered by the chill on the water, which made each of us cower into his cloak;
but I looked back, between the two, at what I could still discern of the top of the
Drachenfels; for there I had seen much, and heard much which I have often
recalled since.15
15
In the original: “In 's hemels naam, Diocles, houd op! riep ik: mijn hart draait om! Ik kan het niet helpen, antwoordde hij: het is de Fransche romantische school. Gij moogt niet
walgen: uw vaderland begint ze te huldigen. - Och neen! riep ik, een enkele verdwaalde... Maar Diocles was reeds aan het afdalen van den berg, en Charinus volgde hem. De zon was
ondergegaan, en de Rijn-nevels rezen hooger. Het geheele natuurtooneel werd somber en
ontzagwekkend. Wij haasteden ons naar beneden, en er werd niets meer gesproken: want
het afstijgen van zulke hoogten gaat snel. Terwijl wij den Rijn overvoeren, was het gesprek
gestremd door de koude op het water, die ieder van ons in zijn mantel deed duiken; maar ik
keek nog tusschen beide op naar de spits van den Drachenfels, zoo veel ik ze onderscheiden
kon: want ik had er veel gezien, en veel gehoord, waaraan ik dikwijls herdacht heb.”
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