FACIALMOISTURIZERS101bySusanBarclayNichols
http://swiftcraftymonkey.blogspot.com
1
FACIALMOISTURIZERS101bySusanBarclayNichols
http://swiftcraftymonkey.blogspot.com
NATURALCALENDULA&ROSEHIPSEEDOILFACIALMOISTURIZER.......................................................1
NATURALROSEHIP&CALENDULAMOISTURIZERRECIPE.........................................................................2
BASICHYALURONICACIDGEL...................................................................................................................3
OILBASEDFACIALSERUM....................................................................................................................3
SWEETALMOND&POMEGRANATEFACIALSERUM.................................................................................4
OILFREEHYDRO-GEL............................................................................................................................5
NIACINAMIDE&WILLOWBARKOILFREEMOISTURIZER..........................................................................6
COLDEMULSIFIERMOISTURIZERWITHARISTOFLEXAVC......................................................................7
GIGAWHITE&VITAMINCMOISTURIZER..................................................................................................7
Todaywe’lltakealookatfourdifferentproductswecanuseasfacialmoisturizers.Thefirst
isagreenandnaturalheatedoil-in-waterlotionusingSimulgreen18-2.Thesecondisan
anhydrousoilserumwithloadsoflovelylight,non-greasyoils.Thethirdisanoil-free
hydro-gelcreatedwithSepinovEMT10,apre-neutralizedpolymer.Andthefourthuses
AristoflexAVCtomakeacoldoil-in-waterlotion.
Thegoalofalltheseproductsistoreducetransepidermalwaterloss,moisturizebyusing
oils,andhydrateusingwatersolubleingredientslikehumectantsorproteins.Toeach,I’ll
beaddingafewcosmeceuticalsoractiveingredientsthatwillhelpwiththeappearanceof
finelinesandwrinkles,reducingsebumproduction,promotingamoreevenskintone,and
otherissues.Andforeach,I’llgiveyouafewsuggestionsotheractiveingredientsyoumight
liketotry.
NATURALCALENDULA&ROSEHIPSEEDOILFACIALMOISTURIZER
Forthisrecipe,I’musingingredientsthatareconsiderednatural,likeouroils,orcertified
asgreenbyorganizationslikeECOcertandNatrue.Thisisanoil-in-waterlotionusingan
emulsifiertobringtogetheroilsolubleingredientsandwatersolubleingredientstocreatea
traditionalfacialmoisturizer.
Myheatedlotionshavethreephases–theheatedwaterphase,theheatedoilphase,andthe
cooldownphase.Everythingwatersolublethathandlesheatwellgoesintotheheated
waterphase.Everythingoilsolublethathandlesheatwellgoesintotheheatedoilphase.
Everythingelseendsupinthecooldownphase.
Asmyhumectant,I’musinghyaluronicacidat0.1%intheheatedwaterphase.Icouldadd
itat0.1%tothewaterphase,orIcouldmakethegelyouseeonpage3andusethatat10%,
whichworksoutto0.1%activeingredient.I’malsousingpropanediol1,3,anatural
alternativetopropyleneglycol,aswellassodiumlactateat2%intheheatedwaterphase.
FACIALMOISTURIZERS101bySusanBarclayNichols
http://swiftcraftymonkey.blogspot.com
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I’maddinghydrolyzedquinoaproteinasmyfilmformerandskinconditioner,and
allantoinat0.5%asitisagreatbarrierprotectoraswellasskinsoother.
I’mahugefanofpanthenol,inthiscasepowdereddl-Panthenol,VitaminB5,whichhas
beenshowntohelpincreaseskinhydration,behaveasahumectantandanti-inflammatory
whilehelpingskin’swoundhealingproperties.AndI'maddingliquidcalendulaextractat
5%asananti-inflammatoryandanti-oxidant.
Inmyheatedoilphase,I'maddingolivederivedsqualane,partoftheunsaponifiablepart
ofoliveoilfoundinourskinsoitsinksinquicklytomoisturize.Unrefinedrosehipseed
oilcontainsbetacarotene,theprecursortoVitaminA,thathelpswithhyperpigmentation
ofourskintopromoteamoreuniformskincolour.
I’musingSepiliftDPHP(INCI:Dipalmitoylhydroxyproline),anECOcertandNatrue
certifiedingredientat1%to2%intheheatedoilphaseasananti-agingingredientthatmay
stimulatecollagensynthesistoplumpskinandlips.
Astheemulsifier,I’vechosenSimulgreen18-2(INCI:HydroxystearylAlcoholand
HydroxystearylGlucoside),anECOcertandgreenemulsifiertowhichwewanttoadd0.5%
xanthangumor1%to3%fattyalcoholtocreatestability.Forfacialmoisturizers,Ialways
wanttohaveamoremattefinish,soI’musingbehenylalcoholasthatstabilizerat2%in
theheatedoilphase.
Anytimeweusewater,weneedtouseapreservative.MyfavouriteisliquidGermallplus
at0.5%inthecooldownphaseasit’sabroadspectrumpreservativethatwillhelpcombat
microbeslikebacteria,yeast,andmold.TothisI’maddingAntarcticine(INCI:Water,
PseudoalteromonasFermentExtract,SalicylicAcid,SodiumHydroxide),anECOcert
ingredientusedat3%to5%toincreaseskinhydration,increaselevelsofcollagenand
elastintoreducethedepthandappearanceoffinelinesandwrinkles,aswellasenhance
woundhealing.
Finally,let’saddRegu-scence(INCI:AsparagusOfficinalisStemExtract),anECOcert
ingredientusedat1%to3%inthecooldownphasetohelpcreateamoreevenskintone
andreducethesignsofaging,likethinnerskin.
NATURALROSEHIP&CALENDULAMOISTURIZERRECIPE
HEATEDWATERPHASE
56%distilledwater
10%hyaluronicacidgel(0.1%HALMW)
3%propanediol1,3
5%calendulaextract(watersoluble)
2%sodiumlactate(powder)
2%hydrolyzedquinoaprotein
2%panthenol(powder)
0.5%allantoin
FACIALMOISTURIZERS101bySusanBarclayNichols
http://swiftcraftymonkey.blogspot.com
HEATEDOILPHASE
10%squalane
5%rosehipseedoil
4%Simulgreen18-2
2%behenylalcohol
1%SepiliftDPHP
COOLDOWNPHASE
5%Antarcticine
2%Regu-scence
0.5%liquidGermallPlus
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1. Weightheheatedwaterphaseintoaheatproofcontainer.Measuretheweightofthe
waterphaseandthecontainerbeforeputtingitintoyourdoubleboiler.(Thisissowecan
compensateforevaporationaftertheheatingandholdingphase.)Placethecontainerinto
adoubleboiler.
2. Weightheheatedoilphaseintoaheatproofcontainer,thenplaceintothedoubleboiler.
3. Whenbothphaseshavereached70˚C,removefromtheheat.Pourthewaterintotheoil
phase,thenmixwithastickblenderforabout3minutes.Thenswitchtoahandmixer
withbeaters.
4. Whenthelotionreaches45˚C,addthecooldownphaseandmixwell.
TOMAKEAHYALURONICACIDGELTOUSEINOURPRODUCTSORALONE
IfindtheeasiestwaytomakeitistomakeagelasperthisrecipefromLotioncrafter(used
withpermission).
BASICHYALURONICACIDGEL
98.5%distilledwater
1%LMWhyaluronicacidpowder
0.5%liquidGermallPlus
Isprinkledinthehyaluronicacidpowder,mixedwellbyhanduntilthepowderwaswet,
thenleftitaloneforthreehoursandcamebacktoalovelylookinggel!Itshouldbe
completelyclearanddoesn’tfeelstickyonyourskin.Youcanusethisneatorusethisin
products.Using10%hyaluronicacidgel=0.1%hyaluronicacidinyourproduct.
OILBASEDFACIALSERUM
Mygoalforanyoilbasedfacialserumistouseacombinationofnon-greasyandlightoils
thatwillsinkinquicklyleavingbehindamattefinish.Myfirstthoughtisalwaysaboutusing
squalaneasit’smadeforproductslikethis!
Ithinkchiaseedoilwouldbealovelyadditionasit’sfilledwithalpha-linoleicandlinoleic
fattyacids,whicharefantasticathelpingskin’sbarrierrepairmechanismsaswellas
moisturizing.Itcontainsalotofphytosterols,whichreduceinflammation,andquitealotof
tocopherolsornaturalanti-oxidants.Wemetrosehipseedoilinthefacialmoisturizer,and
FACIALMOISTURIZERS101bySusanBarclayNichols
http://swiftcraftymonkey.blogspot.com
4
I’musingitat10%togetsomeofthoselovelypropertieswithouttoomuchorange.(When
itcomestooilslikethis,alwaysconsiderthatitcouldbeorangeonyourskin!Doapatch
testbeforeaddingthemathugequantities.)
Let’saddsweetalmondoiltothemixasit’sfullofoleicacid,whichsoftensand
moisturizesskin,andsomeplumoilforitsamazingfragranceaswellasitsnon-greasybut
richskinfeel,loadsofanti-oxidants,andtonsofphytosterols.Infacialproducts,Ialwaystry
toaddalittlepomegranateoiltothemixforthepunicicfattyacidthathelpswithwound
repairandskincellregenerationaswellasitsabilitytohelpwithwindchappedor
sunburnedskin.Finally,I’maddingVitaminEasaskinsoftenerandmoisturizeraswellas
ananti-oxidanttoretardtherancidityofouroils.
IntothisserumI’llbeaddingtetrahexyldecylascorbate,anoilsolubleVitaminC,to
promoteamoreevenskintone.Youcouldusethisatupto10%inthisserum,butalways
startwithlowerlevelstoensureitworkswellwithyourskintype.
Finally,I’maddingCollageneer(INCI:HelianthusAnnuus(Sunflower)SeedOiland
LupinusAlbusSeedExtract),anoilsolubleingredientusedatupto2%,asanantiinflammatoryandtohelpwiththesignsofagingbystimulatingproductionofcollagen.
SWEETALMOND&POMEGRANATEFACIALSERUM
30%squalane
20%chiaseedoil
15%sweetalmondoil,unrefined
10%rosehipseedoil
10%plumoil
10%pomegranateoil
2%tetrahexyldecylascorbate(oilsolubleVitamin C)
2%collageneer
1%VitaminE(I’musingT50)
Measureeachoftheoilsintoacontainer,mixwell,thenpourintoabottlewithatreatment
pump.Rejoice,foryouaredone!Yep,itreallyisthatsimpletomake:Thehardestpartis
decidingwhattoincludeandwhy.
Afewoilsolubleingredientstoconsiderusinginanoilbasedserum…
• D’Orientine(INCI:Caprylic/CapricTriglyceride(and)PhoenixDactylifera(Date)
SeedExtract–ECOcertingredient–usedatupto2.5%tohelpwithproductionof
collagenandbehaveasananti-oxidant
• SepiliftDPHP(seepreviousrecipe)–Makesureyouheatuptheoilstomeltthe
DPHP
• Co-enzymeQ10at0.2%to3%-Ensureyouheatyourproduct.
FACIALMOISTURIZERS101bySusanBarclayNichols
http://swiftcraftymonkey.blogspot.com
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OILFREEHYDRO-GEL
Someskintypescan’thandleoils,sothisrecipeisanoilfreemoisturizerorseruminto
whichyoucouldaddallkindsoflovelywatersolubleingredients.Mygoalforthisproductis
tohydrateskin,helpreduceinflammation,sootheirritatedskin,andpromoteamoreeven
skintone.
I’musingwillowbarkextractinthisrecipeasitcontainssalicylicacid,whichcanhelp
withproblemskinandactasachemicalexfoliant.(Youcouldusesalicylicacidinthisrecipe
dissolvedinalcohol,forinstance,asSepinovEMT10cancreatealcoholicgels.)
I’mhavingaloveaffairwiththecombinationofniacinamide(VitaminB3)andn-acetyl
glucosamine(NAG).Usedataslittleas2%,niacinamidecanincreaseskin’sbarrierlipids
andceramides,whichresultsinareductionofTEWLandanincreaseincollagensynthesis.
Itcanreducesebumproductionandporediameter,aswellasreducinghyperpigmentation
ofageandsunspots.Itcanreducethedamagefromenvironmentalcauses,whichreduces
theirritation,inflammation,andskinrednessfromthingslikethesun,cold,orweatheras
wellasapplicationofstraightSLS.Evenat5%,there'salackofirritationandrednesson
ourfaces('causesometimesniacincanmakeourskinflush,butnotat2%or5%).Itcan
reducetheappearanceoffinelinesandwrinklesanddecreasesskinblotchinessand
"pebbling"orroughnessonfacialskin.Italsobehavesasananti-inflammatoryand
enhancesskin'sbarrierfunctions.n-acetylglucosamineisabio-identicalingredientthatcan
reducehyperpigmentationintheskin,andhasbeenshowntoworkwellwhencombined
withniacinamide.Itcanalsoincreasehydrationofourskinbyincreasingtheproductionof
hyaluronicacidinourskin.Thiscombinationhasbeenstudiedandfoundtoreducethe
appearanceofhyperpigmentationtopromoteamoreuniformskintone.Whew!That’salot
ofstuff,eh?
Wemetpropanediol1,3intheSimulgreen18-2recipeonpage1,andI’musingithereasa
non-stickyfeelinghumectant.I’maddingseakelpbiofermenttotherecipeasmyfilm
former.(Gelsdon’ttendtolikehydrolyzedproteins,soI’musingthisingredienttobehave
thewaysomethinglikehydrolyzedoatproteinmightwork.)I’maddingpanthenoltothis
geltoimprovehydrationofmyskin(readmoreonpageNATURALCALENDULA&ROSEHIP
SEEDOILFACIALMOISTURIZER)andsodiumlactatetoactasahumectant.(Yeah,I’ve
gonecrazywithhumectantsinthisrecipe,butIneedsomethingtomoisturizeandhydrate
withoutoils!)I’maddingallantoinat0.5%asmybarrierprotectantandskinsoother,and
I’maddingliquidchamomileextracttohelpreducetransepidermalwaterlossandsoothe
irritatedskin.
Finally,I’musingSepinovEMT10asmygellingagent(INCI:HydroxyethylAcrylate/
SodiumAcryloyldimethylTaurateCopolymer).It’sapre-neutralizedpolymeryoucanuseto
makegels,creamgels,andalcoholicgels,andcanbeaddedtoanemulsionasarheology
modifier(thickener).Therecommendedusagerateis0.5%to5%.Thelowerusagerateis
forincludingitinlotion,whilethehigherlevelsarecreatinggelsorcreamgelswhereEMT
10isthemainingredient.It’sananionicornegativelychargedingredient,soit’snot
compatiblewithcationicorpositivelychargedingredients.Thismeansyoucan’tadd
FACIALMOISTURIZERS101bySusanBarclayNichols
http://swiftcraftymonkey.blogspot.com
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cationicpolymerslikehoneyquat,polyquat44,polyquat7,andsoon,aswellasemulsifiers
likeIncroquatBTMS-50,RitaBTMS-225,andsoon.Somehydrolyzedproteinsmightbe
rightout,too,soifyouwanttoincludethose,doatestbatchtoseehowtheyturnout.
SepinovEMT10isasilkyfeelinggellantwhencomparedtocarbomerslikepre-neutralized
sodiumcarbomer,Ultrez20,orSepimaxZEN.Youcanusethosegellantsinthisrecipe
insteadofEMT10attheirsuggestedusagerates.Itcanemulsifyoils–I’vefoundit’sbestat
10%orso–anditcanhandleacids,likealpha-hydroxyacids,fruitacidextracts,lacticacid,
glycolicacid,salicylicacid,andmore.
NIACINAMIDE&WILLOWBARKOILFREEMOISTURIZER
WATERPHASE
74.5%distilledwater
5%willowbarkextract(liquid)
4%niacinamide(powder)
3%propanediol1,3
3%seakelpbioferment
2%n-acetylglucosamine
2%panthenol(powder)
2%chamomileextract(liquid)
0.5%sodiumlactate(powder)
0.5%allantoin
0.5%liquidGermallPlus
EMTPHASE
3.0%SepinovEMT10
Inacontainerthat’sbigenoughtousethestickblenderorhandmixerin,combineallthe
waterphaseingredients.Sprinklethepowderoverthewater,thenmixwellwithastick
blenderorhandmixeruntilitgels.You’redone!Rejoice!
Ifyouwanttoalterthisrecipe,pleasenotethatniacinamideneedstohaveapHaround6,
sowecan’taddanyacids,likesalicylicacidorAHAs,oringredientsthatmightneedtohave
alowerpH.
Afewcombinationsthatmightbenice…
• Usethisasatargetedtreatmentbyadding3%to10%argirelineintothewater
phase.
• Tryusingthisasatargetedorallovertreatmentbydissolving1%genisteininto3%
glycerin(useinplaceofthepropanediol1,3).
• 5%FisionActiveWhiteforalittleofeverythingtohelpwithskinbrightening.
• Add10%anyoiloroilsolubleingredienttothisrecipetomakeacreamgel.
• Addafruitacidcomplexatupto10%toaddsomeAHAingredients.Ifyoudothis,
pleaseremovetheniacinamideat4%fromtherecipeaspermynoteabove.
FACIALMOISTURIZERS101bySusanBarclayNichols
http://swiftcraftymonkey.blogspot.com
7
COLDEMULSIFIERMOISTURIZERWITHARISTOFLEXAVC
Thegoalofthismoisturizeristocreatesomethingthatallkindsofingredientstomoisturize
andhydrateourskinwithsomelovelyactiveingredientstohelpwiththeappearanceof
unevenskintoneandfinelinesandwrinkles.We’reusingthiscoldemulsifiertomake
somethingquicklywithouthavingtoheatandhold.
I’maddingresveratrolinthisrecipeat0.5%tohelpwithhyperpigmentationandsignsof
photoaging.I’llbemixingitwiththepropanediol1,3asasolventandhumectant.I’madding
AlpaflorGigawhite(INCI:Water,Glycerin,Alcohol,MalvaSylvestris(Mallow)Extract,
MenthaPiperita(Peppermint)LeafExtract,PrimulaVerisExtract,AlchemillaVulgaris
Extract,VeronicaOfficinalisExtract,MelissaOfficinalisLeafExtract,AchilleaMillefolium
Extract),anECOcertextract,at5%tohelppromoteamoreevenskintoneanduniform
complexion.
Inmyoilsolublephase,I’maddingtetrahexcyldecylascorbateandsqualaneas
moisturizers.
Finally,I’musingAristoflexAVC(INCI:AmmoniumAcryloyldimethyltaurate/VP
Copolymer)asacoldprocessemulsifier.It’sapolymerthatcancreategelsaswellas
emulsifyupto5%oilsorsilicones.Wecan’tincludeingredientswithhighlevelsof
electrolytes,likealoevera,sodiumPCA,sodiumlactate,someextracts,orsomeproteins,or
hyaluronicacidat0.1%orhigher.Itdoesn’tworkwellwithsurfactantbasedproducts,like
shampoo,bodywash,orfacialcleansers.Itcanpotentiallymakecleargels,andit’s
suggestedyouuseupto5%glycerintomakethegelsclearer.
GIGAWHITE&VITAMINCMOISTURIZER
WATERSOLUBLEINGREDIENTS
80.5%distilledwater
2%seakelpbioferment
2%panthenol(powder)
0.5%allantoin
ACTIVEINGREDIENTS
3%propanediol1,3
0.5%resveratrol
5%AlpaflorGigawhite
OILSOLUBLEINGREDIENTS
2%tetrahexyldecylascorbate
3%squalane
EMULSIFIER
1%AristoflexAVC
PRESERVATIVE
0.5%liquidGermallPlus
1. Measuretheslightlyheateddistilledorde-ionizedwaterintoacontainer.
FACIALMOISTURIZERS101bySusanBarclayNichols
http://swiftcraftymonkey.blogspot.com
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2. Addyourwatersolubleingredients.
3. Mixthepropanediol1,3withtheresveratrolintoasmallcontainer,likeashotglass.
Whendissolved,addtothelargercontaineralongwithGigawhite.
4. Addtheoilsolubleingredients.
5. AddtheAristoflexAVC.
6. Addthepreservative.
7. Mixwell.Bottle,andrejoice!
Combinationstoconsiderfortheactiveingredientsphaseofthisrecipe:
• 0.2%alphaarbutinwhenusingapenetrationenhancerlikepropyleneglycolorup
to2%whennotusingone.
• 2%Cellynkagetohelpwithcreatingamoreevenskintoneandsmoothing“pebbled”
skin
• 3%to5%Ceramidecomplex(INCI:CeramideNP(and)CeramideAP(and)
CeramideEOP(and)Phytosphingosine(and)Cholesterol(and)SodiumLauroyl
Lactylate(and)Carbomer(and)XanthanGum)fordryandagingskintohelpwith
moisturization.
• 3%to10%Lipomoist2036(INCI:Water(Aqua),XanthanGum,Pectin,Hydrolyzed
VegetableProtein,Serine,Arginine,Proline,DisodiumEDTA)intheactiveingredient
phaseasahumectanttoincreaseskin’smoisturization.
• 5%Pollushield(Water,Propanediol,DiisopropylAdipate,Lecithin,Acrylic
Acid/AcrylamidomethylPropaneSulfonicAcidCopolymer,Dimethylmethoxy
Chromanol,GlycerylCaprylate,XanthanGum)intheactiveingredientphaseasan
anti-oxidantthatcandecreaselipidperoxidationandreduceoxidativestress.
ThankyousomuchtoJenWelchatLotioncrafterforsponsoringthis
presentation!Alltheingredientsusedtodayandsomuchmorecanbe
foundat
http://www.lotioncrafter.com
SusanBarclayNicholsisknownasSwiftCraftyMonkey,bloggeratPoint
ofInterest,columnistforHandmadeMagazine,instructor,ande-book
ande-zineauthor.YoucancheckoutmoreofwhatIwriteat
http://swiftcraftymonkey.blogspot.com
FollowmeonFacebookat
https://www.facebook.com/swiftcraftymonkey/
FollowmeonTwitterat@SwiftCraftyM
Recipeslikethosefoundinthishandoutanddemonstrationcanbefoundinmye-zines,
ActiveIngredients(partone),ActiveIngredients(parttwo),andGels,gels,gels,as
wellasmye-bookFacialProductsandmyupcominge-book,FacialProducts(parttwo).