28-40.Fall/Hol.LIFL.01 11/20/2001 9:34 AM Page 35
From
Grapes to
White
or Red?
Wine
The tradition of winemaking in the Finger Lakes
runs as deep as the lakes themselves.
Wine gets its
color from the
grape skins, not
from the pulp.
To pick up color,
the grape juice
is left to mix
By Joy Underhill
with the skins
after crushing.
For blush or
rosé wines, the
skins are
removed early
so that only a
pink color is
ou may have heard about the Pink
Catawba your grandmother sipped at
Thanksgiving. Perhaps your first wine was
Lake Niagara. But in the last 25 years, Finger
Lakes wineries have undergone a quiet revolution
to become respected members of the international
wine community.
Tucked among the rolling hillsides and
panoramic farmland is a treasure worthy of
acclaim. “The number of Finger Lakes wineries is
changing every day,” says Jim Trezise, President of
the New York Wine and Grape Foundation. “At
last count, there were 79.”
And these wineries are producing not only the
old favorites. Vintners have learned how to grow
French-American hybrids and European vinifera
Left: Gewürztraminer grapes. Roger Soule
Above: Photograph by Dorothy Kennedy.
grapes commonly seen in the world-class vineyards
of France and Germany. More and more, Finger
Lakes wines are giving European wines a run for
their money.
Why Grapes Grow in the Finger Lakes
“The wines are made in the vineyards,” says
Ann Martini of Anthony Road Vineyards on
Seneca Lake. “We can only work with what is
grown.”
And although grapevines are pretty tough,
they need three things to survive: minerals, good
drainage, and a moderate climate. Lucky for us,
the Finger Lakes provide all three.
The nuances in wine come from the mineral
deposits found in the soil. When the glaciers that
formed the Finger Lakes receded, they left behind
salt beds, shells, and decayed organic material. As
these substances broke down, they created two
types of soil.
attained. For
red wines, the
skins are left
longer.
In fact, you can
produce a white
wine from a red
grape as long as
you remove the
skins soon after
crushing
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28-40.Fall/Hol.LIFL.01 11/20/2001 9:34 AM Page 36
A Primer of
Wine Terminology
Vinifera: A grape that is native
to Europe, including
Chardonnay, Cabernet
Sauvignon, Pinot Noir,
Sauvignon Blanc, Merlot,
Cabernet Franc, and Riesling.
Hybrid: A grape that is typically a cross between vinifera varieties and disease-resistant
American varieties. Seyval
Blanc, Baco Noir, Marechal
Foch, and Vignoles are examples
of hybrids commonly grown in
the Finger Lakes.
Labrusca: A grape variety native
to America, such as Concord,
Catawba, and Niagara.
Labrusca grapes are often an
ingredient in “jug wines” and
are used to make sweeter wines,
ports, and sherries.
Residual sugar: The amount of
sugar left in the wine after
fermentation is halted. The
higher the residual sugar, the
sweeter the wine.
Noble rot (Botrytis): A type of
mold that sometimes forms on
grapes in late autumn. As the
mold shrivels the grapes, it concentrates the sugar. Such
grapes are used to make highly
valued late harvest wines.
Microclimate: The climate of the
grapevine itself. The moderating influence of the Finger
Lakes can cause significant differences in microclimate,
depending upon where the
grapes are located in relation
to the lakes.
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IN THE
FINGER LAKES
Above: The vineyards are influenced
greatly by the lakes, such as this one at
Glenora Farms on Seneca Lake.
Roger Soule
Below: A close-up view of grape vines
and the supporting posts and wire that
keep the vines upright.
Dorothy Kennedy.
The lower-elevation lakes – Seneca
and Cayuga – are surrounded by
chalky, high-lime soil. Such soil is well
suited for the vinifera grapes used in
European winemaking. In the higheraltitude Finger Lakes – Keuka and
Canandaigua – the soil is more acidic.
Native American varieties – Concord,
Catawba, and Niagara – prefer acid
soil, which may explain why the earliest vineyards developed around the
smaller lakes.
Regardless of the predominant soil
type, Finger Lakes wineries are now
home to all types of grapes. Nearly
every winery makes wines to suit your
taste, from very dry to very sweet.
In German wine country, it is said
that the best vineyards overlook water.
This is certainly true in the Finger
Lakes. And it is the lakes themselves
that provide the other two elements
needed to create outstanding grapes:
drainage and moderate temperatures.
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Types of Wines
Even the deeper Finger Lakes provide plenty of drainage for vines planted
along the hillsides. But it is the depth of
the Finger Lakes that provide the temperatures needed to grow finer grapes.
The narrowness of the Finger Lakes
means that they have relatively little
surface area. Combine this with depths
from 200 to 600 feet, and you find that
the lakes act as gigantic heaters during
the winter months. Seneca Lake rarely
freezes and stays 37 degrees year round
at a depth of 200 feet. That heat simply radiates to the surrounding land,
keeping some vineyards 10 to 15
degrees warmer than land just a few
miles further away.
This heating effect also cushions the
severity of spring and fall temperature
fluctuations. Hot days in April and May
are cooled by the water, which slows
the growth of tender shoots that might
be damaged by late spring frosts. In the
fall, the lakes hold onto summer’s heat
and extend the ripening season, sometimes into November. On all of the
lakes, cold air masses tend to settle in
valleys, keeping frosts from the hillsides
used to grow grapes.
These three factors – the soil, the
drainage, and the moderating influence
of deep lakes – make the Finger Lakes a
prime location for growing some of the
more delicate European vinifera grapes
and French-American hybrids.
The Pioneers of Winemaking
When it comes to Finger Lakes
winemaking, two names stand above
the rest: Charles Fournier and Dr.
Konstantin Frank. As luck would have
it, these men collaborated to prove
that vinifera grapes could be grown in
the colder climate of the Finger Lakes.
Charles Fournier spent his early
years in France’s Champagne district.
When he became Gold Seal’s winemaker on Keuka Lake in 1934, the Finger
Lakes produced mainly native American
grapes such as Catawba and Concord.
Noticing the similarities between
the white, lime-ridden soils of
Champagne and those of Seneca Lake,
Fournier introduced French-American
hybrids to the region in 1936, with
much success. In 1953, Dr. Konstantin
Frank, a Ukrainian immigrant, was
hired at Gold Seal to head up research.
Frank had vast experience growing
European grapes in the unforgiving
cold of the Soviet Union.
By 1962, Dr. Frank established his
own winery and continued producing
excellent wines, including unusual
Russian varieties such as Rkatsiteli
(which you can still taste today). In
the early 1970’s Fournier planted the
region’s largest vinifera vineyard on
the eastern shore of Seneca Lake. To
this day, these vineyards still produce
some of the region’s best white wines.
In 1976, The Farm Winery Act
made it economically feasible to operate
small wineries in the Finger Lakes.
Since that time, scores of wineries have
sprung up around the Finger Lakes,
each of which owes a debt to the early
efforts of these two men. Without
them, the Finger Lakes may not have
reached the potential we see today –
and will no doubt see in the future.
Varietal wine: A wine that
contains at least 75% of the
grape listed on the label.
Varietals can be made from
any type of grapes: vinifera,
hybrid, or labrusca.
Grafting of Grapevines
Grapevines are grafted to make
them more hardy and disease-resistant.
Without grafting, grapevines worldwide would be threatened by a formidable enemy: the root-eating aphid
known as phylloxera.
Since phylloxera is an American
insect, native grapevines developed a
resistance to it. But European
grapevines proved extremely vulnerable. In the mid-1800’s phylloxera devastated nearly every European vineyard.
To combat this pest, American
rootstocks were grafted onto European
vines. The result – fine wines produced
from strong vines – is the norm today.
Look in the vineyards of France and
the Finger Lakes and you’ll see grafted
grapevines that resist disease.
( Continued on page 40)
(See description of grapes on page 38)
Late harvest wine: A dessert
wine, often sold in half-bottles, and produced from
sweeter grapes such as
Vignoles.
Blend: A wine made from two
or more grape varieties.
Sparkling wine: A wine made
in the Champagne style of
France. Since true
Champagnes can only be
made in the Champagne
region, most bubbly wines of
the Finger Lakes are labeled
“sparkling.”
Blush or rosé wine: A wine
made by blending red and
white wines or by picking up
a light color from crushed
red grapes. Such wines are
pink in color.
Ice wine: A wine made from
grapes that are harvested
after the first hard frost.
The frozen grapes are
pressed to make dessert
wines. With any luck, the
grapes used to make ice
wines have been touched by
noble rot, which will further enhance their flavor.
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The Grapes
of the
Finger Lakes
lthough the Finger Lakes are home to many types of
grapes, a few of the most popular varieties are featured below.
Only by trying a few different wines will you develop a
taste for your favorites. And don’t let anyone tell you that
you must serve white wines with chicken and fish and red
wines with beef! Some of the most interesting food and
wine combinations come about through experimentation.
As exotic as it sounds, try serving wine with dessert.
Hearty red wines taste marvelous with rich chocolate. A
sparkling or late harvest wine can bring out the best in
fruit pies. For a special treat, dribble a little ice wine over
slices of perfectly ripe cantaloupe.
Riesling
Riesling, or Johannesburg Riesling, originates from
Germany and the Alsace region of France. This crisp
white wine is excellent for sipping and to enhance the flavors of fresh fruit, cheese, chicken, turkey, and fish dishes.
Riesling’s floral, peachy taste can range from bone-dry
to sweet.
Chardonnay
Chardonnay is a vinifera grape grown in the Chablis,
Champagne, and Burgundy regions of France.
Chardonnays are often aged in oak barrels, giving them
their characteristic buttery, nutty flavor. In the Finger
Lakes, Chardonnays are commonly used to make
sparkling wines.
Chardonnays are usually less fruity than Rieslings and
are a wonderful accompaniment to foods such as grilled
chicken or pork, white pasta sauces, and appetizers.
Clockwise, Starting on Left: Cabernet Franc,
Riesling, Pinot Noir, and Chardonnay grapes. Roger Soule
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IN THE
FINGER LAKES
28-40.Fall/Hol.LIFL.01 11/20/2001 9:35 AM Page 39
Gewürztraminer
Gewürztraminer, pronounced “ge-VURTS-tra-ME-ner,”
is a spicy wine with a rich, golden color. It is grown in
Germany but its taste is quite distinct from Rieslings and
Chardonnays. Its spiciness can stand up to foods with more
intense flavors. Try it with Chinese or Thai food.
Cabernet Franc
Cabernet Franc, a vinifera grape grown in the Bordeaux
region of France, is well suited to the Finger Lakes region.
This red grape can be grown as consistently as Riesling in
colder climates, making it an up-and-coming grape in the
Finger Lakes.
Cabernet Franc is full-bodied and hearty. Good food
matches are red pasta sauces, red meats, lamb, and dark
chocolate.
Pinot Noir
Pinot Noir is a red vinifera grape found in the
Burgundy and Champagne regions of France. Used to create red wines, it’s a main ingredient in Champagnes.
Pinot Noirs are dry wines that are light in color and
aged in oak. They are best served with pasta, tomato-flavored marinades, beef, and lamb.
Cayuga
Cayuga is a French-American hybrid that was genetically engineered by Cornell for the Finger Lakes region.
This grape thrives in colder climates and easily produces
large and plentiful grapes.
Cayuga is made into wine and is also used in blends. It
makes a fine sipping wine and can be served with lighter
faire and appetizers.
Vignoles
Vignoles, formerly known as Ravat 51, is a hybrid
between Pinto Noir and a Seibel hybrid. This grape yields
small, compact clusters and may acquire noble rot, a mold
praised in producing delicious late harvest wines.
This sweet wine is a perfect match for desserts and has
a complex, apricot flavor.
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How Grapes
Become Wine
Ever wonder what happens –
what really happens – to
make grapes into wine? It’s a
pretty simple process.
Natural sugar is found
inside grapes. Yeast is found
on grape skins. When you
crush grapes to mix the two,
the yeast begins to convert
the sugar into alcohol and
carbon dioxide, a process
known as fermentation. Left
to its own devices, the yeast
would convert all of the
sugar, resulting in a wine
with an alcohol volume of
about 15%.
Just how much alcohol is
produced – and how much
residual sugar remains in
the wine – depends on several factors, including when
the winemaker stops the fermentation process. Dry
wines contain very little, if
any, residual sugar.
Once fermentation is
stopped, the wine is filtered
to thoroughly to remove
the yeast and clarify the
wine. Then it may be stored
in stainless steel vats, aged
in oak barrels, or bottled,
depending again upon the
discretion of the winemaker.
White wines are typically
aged less than red wines,
and red wines very often
spend some time in oak to
pick up some of the complex
flavors that emerge from
the wood itself.
For more information about
Finger Lakes wines and wineries,
contact the New York Wine and
Grape Foundation at (315) 5367442 or visit www.nywine.com.
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IN THE
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Wine Naming Conventions
In the United States, wines are most often named after the grape used to
make them.
A varietal wine contains at least 75% of the grape listed on the label.
Varietals can be made from any type of grapes: vinifera, hybrid, or labrusca (see
A Primer of Wine Terminology). Typical varietal wines would be Vignoles,
Riesling, and Pinot Noir.
A blend is a wine that is made from two or more grape varieties. Blends typically
have names that describe the character of the wine, such as “Red Legend” or
“Vintner’s White.” Rosés and blush wines can also be blends, although they’re often
created by simply picking
up a bit of color from red
grape skins.
New York state wine
labels also indicate the
region where the grapes
were grown. For a wine to
be a “Finger Lakes” wine,
at least 85% of the wine
must be made from grapes
grown in the Finger
Lakes. If a wine is labeled
“New York State,” it
means that the wine was
produced from New York
State grapes, but not necessarily those grown in
the Finger Lakes.
Now for the confusing part. French wines are
named not for the grape
they contain, but for the
region in which they
were produced.
Photograph by Mark Stash
Practically all French
wines are a blend of several grape varieties. A Champagne originates from the Champagne region, but it
could easily contain three or four grape varieties. In France, it is the region itself –
Burgundy, Bordeaux, Chablis – that defines the character of the wine.
And just to add to the complexity, every country has its own wine labeling
standards!
Take a Drive
The best way to get to know Finger Lakes wines is to visit the wineries themselves. An autumn drive through the Finger Lakes is a pleasure not to be missed.
And every major lake has a wine trail that sponsors regular wine-tasting events.
Pick a day, pick a lake, and discover the delicious array of wines that awaits you.
Joy Underhill is a wine afficionado who makes her home in Farmington, NY.
Thank you to Jeff Morris of Glenora Farms for allowing the photographer, Roger Soule,
to capture many exquisite images of grapes that are grown there.