CCC Project Manual
STEPS
Project Components & How-To’s
Steps
Common Materials
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4x4 (posts)
2x10 (stringers)
2x6 (top handrail)
2x4 (bottom handrail)
5/4 decking (step treads)
1/2” Carriage bolt
16d, 8d, joist hanger nails
Cap Blocks
Quikrete
Step Specific Tools
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Framing Square
Brass Buttons (optional)
Circular Saw
Miter Saw (optional)
1/2” Drill bit
Common Measurements
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Width 39”
Tread depth 11” finished 10” without tread boards
Step Height 7”
See handrail section for handrail specifics (also at the end of this section)
Post holes 20” deep ideal (12” Min)
Steps Components
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Interface with Porch or House
 Design and build steps so that the top step is LEVEL
with the surface of the porch (i.e. not a step down).
 If you are building steps onto a wood porch or a
wood house, the steps can simply be attached using
nails, joist hangers, and/or bolts.
 If you building steps up to the door of a mobile
home, do NOT attach any part of the structure to
the home! In this case, you must build freestanding steps supported only by posts/footers.
 If you are building steps onto a concrete/brick
porch, you can build free-standing steps. Tapcons
can also be used to help anchor the structure, but
these CANNOT service as the primary support for
holding up the steps (i.e. posts/footers must be
used for primary load-bearing support).
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Stringers
 Stringers are the support members (i.e. frame) for
the steps.
 Use treated 2x10 or 2x12 boards to make stringers.
 You must always use at least THREE stringers.
 Whenever possible, outside stringers should be no
less than 39” apart, outside-to-outside.
 Outside stringers must be bolted to posts.
 The inside stringer must be supported by a joist
hanger or a 2x4 beam.
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Stringer Rise & Run
 The rise is the height of one stringer step. ALWAYS
make the rise 7 inches. The run is the depth of one
stringer step. ALWAYS make the run 10 inches.
 Sometimes you may deviate slightly from these
measurements, but these are the ideal dimensions
for steps: 7-10. (In the rare case that you would
want to deviate from the 7-10 rule, rise can be a
minimum of 4” and a maximum of 8”. Run can be a
minimum of 9”. Rise + run should equal 17.)
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Posts
 Posts support stringers and handrails.
 You must install 4x4 posts at top corners of the step system, and at the front edge of the second-tolast step from the bottom (in-line with the stringer).
 Bolt posts to stringers (and porch if possible) with ½” x 6” galvanized carriage bolts, nuts, and washers. Make sure the head of the bolt is exposed and the nut side is hidden “inside” the structure (it’s
easier to catch clothing or flesh on the nut side).
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Postholes
 Postholes should 20” deep if possible and resting on solid footing (e.g. brick, rocks, gravel). 12” deep
minimum!
 Postholes should be backfilled with water, then sacrete (approximately 40 lbs per hole). If sacrete is
not available, use water, then dirt. It’s good for posts to be sitting on rocks in the bottom of the hole
(just make sure the post is at least 12” beneath the ground). Do not backfill posthole with rocks.
 Avoid using cap blocks as footers for steps. These will not offer the best stability.
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Treads/Risers
 The decking of the steps, the boards you step on.
The top tread should be level with the porch.
 The material you can use are 2x6 or 5/4 x6 boards.
 Treads boards should always be at least 39” wide
(slightly shorter for those boards between posts).
 Use two decking boards for each step, attached
“cups down.” Drive two 16d galvanized nails
through the each decking board into each stringer.
 Tread boards should overhang stringers 1” on the
sides and 1” on the front.
 Risers are boards that cover the vertical gap between steps. These are 5/4x6 or 2x6 decking
boards.
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Top Rails
 Rails are ALWAYS required for more than 2 steps!
 Top rails should be 2x6 boards, fastened on edge to
the inside of the posts.
 Top rails should extend past the bottom posts at least 1’, and cut flush with the top posts.
 Top edge of top rails should be a minimum of 1 ½” and a maximum of 2” above the top of posts. Cups
toward the post.
 These rails should be well sanded whenever possible!
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Steps
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Mid Rails
 Mid rails should be 2x4 boards, fastened on edge on the inside of the posts, inline with the mid rails of
the porch and parallel to the top rails.
 Cups toward the post.
 Mid rails should be cut flush with both bottom and top posts.
 You do not need bottom rails for step systems.
Additional Step Components
Very large step systems require additional components and materials. These structures are very costly in terms of
money and time. They will require a lot of materials and know-how to ensure the structure is safe. Projects like
these will very likely take more than two days to complete. So in most cases like these, it is best to STEER
CLEAR! Step systems that have more than SEVEN steps must be supported by one or more of the following:
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Beams and Intermediate Posts: Beams serve as support for stringers. They are bolted to opposing posts
so that all three stringers are resting on and supported by the beam.
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Landings: Landings are basically small porches that provide a “break” in the step system and additional
support for the stringers. They must be at least 34” wide (same as steps) and can be configured in different ways, depending on the situation.
How to Build Steps: Laying it Out and Setting the Two Top-Most Posts
1.
Determine where the
steps will be built. This
may depend on several
factors, such as how the
current porch and its railings are laid out, obstacles on the ground (trees,
shrubs, etc.), the slope of
the ground, and the
wishes of the homeowner.
Also keep in mind that if
the porch is small, you
don’t want the steps to be
blocked by the door when
it is swung open. In this
example, we will assume
that the steps are coming
off the side of the porch,
that there is no slope to
the ground, and that the
elevation from the ground
to the top of the porch is
48” (or 4’).
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Steps
2.
Measure down from the top
of the porch 1” and make a
mark on the porch. Hold up
a level to this mark, keep it
level, and use a pencil to
extend the mark. This line,
which we will call the
FRAMING LEVEL LINE, establishes the stringer level.
3.
Now determine the position
of the two top-most posts
for the steps. These posts
should be 39” apart, insideto-inside, and as close to
the porch as possible. Dig
postholes accordingly.
Holes must be 12” - 20”
deep.
4.
Drop 4x4x10’ posts (posts
this long are necessary for
7-step systems) in the
holes and hold them plumb
in both directions. Measure the distance between
the posts at the level of
the porch. Make adjustments to the holes so that
both posts can be plumb
and 39” apart, inside-toinside, at the level of the
porch.
5. Once you have achieved
this, backfill the holes with
water and sacrete. Pour
some water in the hole
first, then begin slowly
pouring secrete. Stir and
tamp down the mixture until you have poured about 40 lbs. of secrete in each hole. Finish the tops of the holes with dirt and water.
Make sure the mixture is neither too dry nor too soupy. Continue holding both posts plumb throughout this
process.
6. Once both posts are set, check the distance between both posts one more time (once again, at porchlevel). Again, you want it to measure 39”, inside-to-inside.
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Steps
How to Build Steps: Making the Stringers
1.
Take a 2”x”10”x8’, and check for the “crown.” For this and every stringer hereafter, always make sure
that the “crowns are up” before installing. That is, if boards are slightly bowed, make sure the bow
points towards the sky. In order to determine whether boards have a crown, look down the 2” edge and
observe its curve. The crown is always up so that when load bearing pressure is applied, it will help to
level the board and not create an even-worse bow. The crown side will face up and will be the side the
stair treads attach to. It may help to write a “C” on the side where the crown is.
2. Place a framing square on the 2x10x8’ as demonstrated in the following diagram. Note that the position of
the 7” mark, the 10” mark, and the origin point of the framing square. Use a pencil to trace the edges of
the framing square.
3. Continue to slide the square along the edge of the 2x10x8’, marking with a pencil, keeping the 7” and 10”
marks of the square lined up on the edge of the board. Each new “triangle” begins at the point of the last
triangle. Your pattern should resemble the diagram shown below.
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4. Now go back to the first 7” mark and the last 10” mark you made, and lay a square at a 90° angle on these
marks. Trace lines as shown below.
...by now, the board should look something like this…
5. The final mark to make is the “base line,” the bottom of the last step. Place a framing square on the last
mark as shown, make sure that you retain a 90° angle. See diagram for help. You are now ready to begin
cutting out your stringer.
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...and now the board should look something like this...
6. With the circular saw UNPLUGGED, set the blade depth at about 1 ¾”. Cut the lines drawn. Since a circular saw can't cut all the way into the corners, use a hand saw to finish each cut. DO NOT CUT PAST ANY
LINES OR YOU WILL WEAKEN THE STRINGER! Scrap pieces should resemble small triangles. Continue to
carefully cut the stringer on the lines you marked. You may need to CAREFULLY keep the guard of the saw
raised up when cutting steps, as this will sometimes cause you to cut on a curve, rather than a straight
line. Use EXTREME CAUTION when raising the guard.
7. Your stringer should look like the finished one in the diagram below. Take this newly cut stringer and use
it as a pattern for marking the other stringers (again, use 2x10x8’ boards). Cut these out the same way.
Hopefully you will have three identical stringers.
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Steps
How to Build Steps: Attaching
the Stringers
1.
Put an outside stringers in place to ensure
that it fits. Adjust so that it is both plumb
and level.
2.
Hopefully, the top step of the stringer
should sit at the “framing level line” established earlier. (It is a common mistake
that some people will forget about the
thickness of the treads and will attach
stringers so that the top step is at the level
of the porch, so make sure you go by this
line.) In some cases, the stringer may sit
too high. If so, you can do some digging to
change the level of the ground, partially
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burying the last step of the stringer,
and/or cut some off the bottom step.
Altering the ground is usually easier and
keeps the stringer as sturdy as possible,
but if you choose to cut some off the
bottom step, just make sure you don’t
cut too much! For our example, we will
simply bury the bottom of the stringer
to make it fit.
3.
With several folks holding the stringer
to sit level, plumb, and at a 90° angle
with the porch (use a speed or framing
square for this), you can now attach the
stringer.
a.
Drive five common 16 penny galvanized nails through the stringer and into the post, in the locations
shown.
b. Check again to ensure you still have a 90° angle between the stringer and porch.
c.
Repeat the same process with the other outside stringer.
d. Adjust both stringers as necessary so that the top step is square with the porch, and so that the distance between stringers is 34”, outside-to-outside. Take this measurement at both the top AND bottom of the stringer: this is crucial to ensuring that the steps will be square.
4. Attach the middle stringer.
a.
Attach a 46” 2x4 underneath the two outside stringers to act as a
beam. Fasten it to the 4x4’s with 1/2” x 6” carriage bolts. This
will hold the middle stringer.
b. The distance between the middle stringer and an outside stringer
should be about 17 1/4”, inside-to-inside. Measure this distance
and make a mark on the porch. Hold the stringer tightly to this
mark, again, so that the top step is flush with the FRAMING LEVEL
MARK.
c.
If possible, climb underneath the porch to drive two nails through
the porch joist into the step stringer to hold it steady else just
toe-nail the stringer to the beam. If needed feel free to add
blocking between the stringers to hold them in place.
5. After you have attached all three stringers, use a square to once more ensure that each board sits at a 90
degrees to the porch, and that outside stringers are 39” apart, outside-to-outside, at both ends of the
staircase.
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Steps
How to Build Steps: Setting the Two Bottom-Most Posts
1. The two bottom-most posts
should be installed so that they
are flush with the front edge of
the second-to-last step. Dig
postholes and drop 4x4x8’ posts
in this position. You may need
to pivot the stringers inward
temporarily to keep them out of
the way. Just make sure to
reposition them later.
2. Have several folks helping to
make sure various components
sit in the proper position:
a.
Bottom-most posts remain
plumb, and flush to the
front edge of the secondto-last step.
b. The distance between
bottom-most posts, inside-to-inside measures
39”.
c.
Stringers remain at a 90°
angle to the porch.
3. When all of these criteria are
met, set the posts in the holes
with water and sacrete.
4. Attach the stringers to the bottom-most posts using nails, as
you did with the top-most
posts.
How to Build Steps: Attaching Treads to the Stringers in Proper Sequence
1.
Each step tread will be comprised of two decking boards and each riser will
consist of one decking board. Cut all decking boards to 39”.
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2.
Attach one of the 39” decking boards to the back of the top step, butted up against the porch. It should
fit snuggly between the posts (if it is too snug, you may need to “shave” off the end a bit). Nail the board
into the stringer below it, using two nails for each stringer intersection.
3.
Next, attach a 39” decking board to the back of the bottom step. This board will keep the stringers the
proper distance apart while you attach the rest of the decking.
4.
Now go back to the top and attach a 39” long piece to finish out the top step. Do not leave a gap between tread boards; nail them as tight together as they will go. Once again, use two nails at each
stringer.
5.
Next attach the two decking boards to the second step leaving a 1” separation between the stringer and
the decking board as shown.
6.
Next attach a riser board above the second step to close in the hole between the top step and second
step.
7.
Follow the same sequence for each step, starting at the back of each step. Use 39” decking boards, leaving a 1” gap at the back and attach both boards then the riser above.
Cut Posts
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Steps
How to Build Steps: Installing Handrails
1.
The posts are all still “running wild,” (i.e. they have not yet been cut to the appropriate length), so now
is the time to cut them.
a.
For the uppermost posts, measure 33” from the top of the decking boards (or 34 ½” from the top of
the stringer) and make a mark on the posts. Use a speed square to transfer this mark to all four sides
of the post.
b. For the bottommost posts, measure 28” from the top of the decking boards (or 29 ½” from the top of
the stringer) and make a mark on the posts. Use a speed square to transfer this mark to all four sides
of the post.
c.
Make sure other people are clear of the post and VERY CAREFULLY, use a circular saw to cut ONCE on
these lines
d. The saw blade will not go all the way through the post, so use a handsaw to finish the cut.
e. Repeat the process on all four posts, each time, measuring 34 ½” from the top of the decking boards.
Hold and
make mark
2. Next, install the top rails. You’ll need several folks helping.
a.
Lay a 2x6x8’ on-edge, on the INSIDE of the posts. Make sure the 2x6x8’ rises about 1 ½” from the
top of each post. Since you’re working with a slope, make sure that this 1 ½” is measured from the
bottom-most point of the top of the post. See diagram for help. Make sure the 2”x6’x8” extends
past both posts, and that it extends about 12” out past the bottom post.
b. Measure out from the bottom post 12” and make a mark on the 2”x6’x8” as shown. The point of this
is to make sure the to rail extends out past the bottom post, to give the homeowner a section of railing to grab onto when ascending the steps.
c.
Continuing to hold the 2”x6’x8” in place, have someone place a level against the posts as shown and
make marks at both ends of the rail. When you have accomplished this, place the 2”x6’x8” on saw
bucks and cut on these marks. (This example shows the top rail being marked/cut flush with the top
posts. Depending on the rail system of the porch, you may want to have the top rail break in the
middle of the or possibly extend beyond the top post.)
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d. Attach the rail as shown, using 16d nails, 3-4 at each post. Repeat this process for the other top rail.
3. Now install the mid rails, using 2x4x8’ boards. Follow a similar procedure as you did with the top rails to
mark, cut, and attach the mid rails, with the following exceptions.
a.
Mid rails should be attached 12” - 14” from the top of the decking boards. This measurement doesn’t
need to be exact; just make sure that the mid rails visually look like they are in the middle. If the
porch has a mid rail, install step mid rails inline with those pre-existing rails.
b. Mid rails should not have a section extending out past the bottom posts; this is necessary for top rails
only. Instead, mid rails should be cut and attached flush with both the top and bottom posts.
4. Sand the tops of the top rails, ensuring that they are smooth and splinter-free for the homeowner.
Cut & install
mid rail
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