A Topographical H isto ry o f Watertown
C h arles T. Burke
W atertow
M assachusetts
1975
o
original boundaries o f Watertosn
A Topographical H isto ry Of Watertown
A r c h e o lo g ic a l evid en c e a t the o ld A rsen a l grounds in d ic a t e s the
presence o f a s e ttlem en t th e re a t l e a s t 3500 y e a rs a go .
More r e c e n t ly ,
Watertown is one o f the many p la c e s vrtiich have been i d e n t i f i e d as the s i t e
o f the Norse s ettlem en t o f V in la n d .
A t a m eeting o f th e American
G eographical S o c ie ty , h e ld f o r th a t purpose in Watertovm Town H a ll in 1890
P r o fe s s o r Eben H orsford p resen ted h is paper matching th e C h arles R iv e r
with the d e s c rip tio n s in the N orse S aga s.
He a s s e r te d th a t the Watertown
dam and nearby canal were b u i l t by N orse s e t t l e r s , as w e ll as the te r r a c e s
behind Perkin s I n s t it u t e on th e r i v e r .
A n c ie n t fo u n d a tio n s n ea r G e r r y 's
Landing were a ls o i d e n t i f i e d as N o rs e .
He lo c a te d the leg en d a ry c i t y o f
Norembega up the r i v e r a few m ile s , \4\ere he b u i l t a commemerative tow er.
An amusement park l a t e r bore th e name.
H o rs fo rd i s n o t taken s e r io u s ly
tod ay.
Sometime in th e m iddle 1 6 2 0 's, John Oldham s e t t l e d
ten fa m ilie s
on h is Watertown c la im , p ro b a b ly on th e r i v e r bank n ea r th e P erk in s
I n s t it u t e lo c a tio n , perhaps on both banks.
They were soon warned ou t
by the Massachusetts Bay Company to whom th e land from M assachusetts Bay
to the P a c i f i c Ocean had been awarded by R oyal C h a rte r.
o f t h e ir occupation rem ains, but i t
No known t r a c e
i s p o s s ib le th a t the m ill o f which
tra c e s remained some y e a rs ago on th e stream which e n te rs th e r i v e r on
the south s id e about a h a l f m ile below th# f a l l s was b u i l t by th en ,
Oldham h im self remained as s e t t l e r o f W atertow n, and h is c la im was
across the r i v e r from th a t p o in t .
2
The next a rriv a ls did not stay long e ith e r .
They landed n e .r the
present location o f the Perkins In s titu te , and met some Indiana * o
were
frie n d ly . Here the transaction memorialised on the town s e a l, the exchange
o f a fish fo r bread took place.
The Bay Company was less fr le a d ly than the
Indians, fo r these s e ttle r s were not o f th e ir number, and had no grant.
They were soon expelled, s e ttlin g in Dorchester.
The s it e o f th e ir b r ie f
settlement was known fo r years as Dorchester F ield s (now R iv e rto n ).
It is curious that the town seal commemorates th is group wrtio were not
permitted to s e ttle here.
Next on the scene was a party o f p lan ters under the patronage o f
S ir Richard S a lsto n a ta ll, who had a grant from the Bay Company. They made
th eir landing where the banks o f the r iv e r started to
r is e from a marshy
area, (behind Nt Auburn H o s p ita l). North o f the r iv e r th ere was a f e r t i l e
plain, protected on the
north bya range o f h i l l s , with a la rg e fresh
water pond nearby.
land was probably not h e a v ily
Ihe
fo r e s te d , fo r
penalties fo r the unauthorized f e l l i n g o f tre e s on commom land were among
the e a r lie s t towi ordinances. The landing was several m iles by r iv e r
below the f a l l s trfilch marked the head o f tid ew a ter.
I t seems c e rta in that
those **io chose th is location fo r the settlem ent saw i t thrugh the eyes
of farmers rather than o f merchants.
In doing so they set up an
antaganisra vtoich was to la s t fo r hundreds o f years between the farming
part of the community and those who were a ttra c te d to the f a l l s by the
opportunities fo r trade and manufacture.
The area was w ell watered.
A brook wandered through the meadows
in the eastern part and entered the r iv e r about a m ile below the lan din g.
Another brook (Treadway) which ran between Mt. Auburn and Spring S ts . was
3
shrined in l it e r a t u r e in L o w e ll*s
" V is io n o f S i r L a u n fa l".
Joined by
went
M M ther brook ft»m th e i t en tered the r i v e r below th e f a l l s , and tro u b led
the tovn f o r years w ith f l o o d s . F u rth er w est, Beaver brook jo in e d the
r iv e r in what is now Waltham,
On th e south s id e o f th e r i v e r th e re were
sprin gs o f renowned p u r it y , which in tim e were d is c o v e re d by a d is c rim in a tin g
d i s t i l l e r ^ but in l a t e r y e a rs supported a sta rch f a c t o r y .
In a d d itio n to
Fresh Pond near the la n d in g p la c e th e r e w ere s e v e r a l s m a lle r ponds.
This abundance o f w a ter was no doubt th e o r i g i n o f the tow n 's
name.
S evera l e a r ly s e ttle m e n ts had found w a ter s c a r c e , and the Charlestown
settlem en t had moved a c ro s s the r i v e r t o Boston, a t t r a c t e d by B la x ton *s
s p rin g .
Such a name would be a h e lp in a t t r a c t i n g p r o s p e c t iv e s e t t l e r s .
The f i r s t s e ttle m e n t was between th e la n d in g and Fresh Pond. The
lo c a tio n o f the church i s unknown, but i t was n o t f a r from th e in t e r s e c t io n
o f Mt. Auburn S t. and Elmwood A v e .
As a r e s u lt o f l a t e r changes in
boundaries, none o f the a re a o f th e o r i g i n a l s e ttle m e n t i s now in
Watertown.
The o r ig i n a l bou ndaries o f W atertown embraced a v a s t t e r r i t o r y .
S ta r tin g on the r i v e r a t Sparks S t . in Cam bridge, th e l i n e ran n orth
about to B r a ttle S t, then n orth w est in a s t r a i g h t l i n e to a p o in t n ea r
where Route 2 c ro ss es ro u te 125 in Concord, then s l i g h t l y e a s t o f south
n in e m iles to the p resen t W E llesley -W esto n l i n e , a lo n g th a t l i n e to the
r i v e r , and by the r i v e r to the s t a r t in g p o in t .
The p a rt o f tow * south o f
the r i v e r near the f a l l s was added in th e e a r ly y e a r s to p r o t e c t th e
fis h e r y , and in compensation f o r th e r e le a s e o f a c la im in the B righ ton
a rea . The o r ig in a l li m i t s in clu d ed most o f Walden and Fresh ponds, and a
la rg e part o f Sandy Pond. S u c c e s s iv e d i v i s i o n s reduced the town to i t s
present lim it s , one o f the s m a lle s t in th e s t a t e . T h is d is c u s s io n w i l l
be lim ite d to the p resen t boundaries o f th e town.
4
, . t t . through the fo r e .t .lon g the r l » « r developed Into rood. In
doth directions-east by the present S ea ttle S t. to Char.eetown uher. .
ferry connected with Boaton.-ueat along he course o f Mt. Auburn S t. to the
f a l l . . A m ill was In existence at the f a l l . In 1635, and another s .ttle n e n t
which in tin . became a factory v illa g e formed h ere.
The c iv ic cen ter wa.
grevel stead ily In th is d ire c tio n , though I t was two hundred y e a r, before
itbecame established in it s present lo c a tio n .
The westward pull began almost immediately, and fo r more than
two centuries the location o f the meeting house was b i t t e r l y con tested.
The several moves explain why Uatertovn, u nlike many o f the old towns,has
no v illa g e green dominated by an ancient steepled meeting house.
common was not set aside u n til
It s
the la te 1890's.
The f i r s t location o f the center within the present tovm lim its
was at the corner o f Arlington and Mt. Auburn S tr e e ts . The ancient graveyard
trtiere the fount ers rest marks the area.
The pastor* house was across Mt.
Aubum St. The common o r ig in a lly included a l l the area between Mt Auburn
and Belmont streets from th e ir In tersectio n about to H ills id e road, which
did not ex ist u n til truch la te r .
The lo ca tio n o f the meeting house is in
some dispute, but i t seems that the marker on H ills id e Rd. id e n t ifie s the
most lik e ly location .
The meeting house would have faced e a s t, o verlook in g
ar impressive common.
- is location in the eastern part o f towi was ob jected to by those
who were taking up farms in Waltham and beyond. Another church was b u ilt
Knowles Delta, and presently another at Beaver and Forests s t r e e t s .
Within . feu y e t s th is congregation fonsed the new town o f W i t h . . .
B itte r controversy continued . e n g
C u rt bed never divided ehe to„
eh, . e v e r . l churches, since the G e n .r.l
M Tm l
C tto n father and to the General Court, the n a t i o n
when the Cohere, Court dlvlded t „ . ^
A ft„
. ppe. u
„
wa, . . t r i e d About 1720
„ „
„ rd„ . d
5
that a new meeting house f o r the e a s t p r e c in c t be b u i l t on S traw berry
h i l l , which became M eeting House h i l l .
Comron S t. a t the top o f the h i l l .
i
1723.
Th is lo c a tio n was e a s t o f
The m eeting house was b u i l t h ere about
There was a la r g e common, and a w in d m ill n ea rb y,
Ihe la s t move o f the m eeting house, to the Common S t . s i t e ,
produced another d isp u te and a s tra n g e s e r ie s o f eve n ts which s m e lls ,
even a f t e r two hundred y e a r s , o f p o l i t i c a l c h ic a n e ry .
was reported in bad r e p a in
The m eeting house
n eed in g g la s s among o th e r th in g s , but s e v e r a l
town m eetings refu sed to a p p r o p r ia te money f o r i t .
Then the town accep ted
the o f f e r o f a committee which a g r e e d , under bond to tak e down the
meeting house and e r e c t a new one " w it h sash windows'* on a l o t which was
donated on Common S t. n ea r Mt Auburn s t . The b u ild in g was q u ic k ly to m
down, and the next town m eeting was h e ld in a ta v e r n .
The want o f a pla ce
o f p u b lic worship was d e p lo re d . Presumably a ta v e rn was c o n s id ere d
In a p p ro p ria te . There was d e la y in th e b u ild in g o f th e new m eeting house,
and the tim bers o f the o ld which w ere to have been used were burned in a
f i r e b e lie v e d to have been in c e n d ia r y .
S e v e r a l su sp ects were t r i e d , but
none c o n v ic te d .
A meeting house th e re must b e, and th e n e x t t o w
asked to a p p ro p ria te money f o r i t .
m eeting was
The bonded com m ittee seems to have
faded from s ig h t . This produced an in d ign a n t p e t i t i o n
from a group o f
taxpayers in the north p a rt o f town (w hich in clu d ed Belm ont) ch a rgin g
fo u l p la y , and a packed town m eetin g , and demanding th e the com m ittee o f
p u b lic s p ir it e d c i t i z e n s be re q u ire d to c a r r y out t h e i r agreem ent.
In
conclusion they vowed th a t they would pay n o th in g toward the new b u ild in g .
D espite the p r o t e s t , the money was a p p ro p ria te d f o r a new m eeting house,
common, th e re was a n o th er a p p r o p r ia tio n
and accordin g to p r a c tic e s t i l l
6
the follow ing y«ar
to cover the d eficien cy In the o r ig in a l estim ate.
Then the meeting voted to release the committee from th e ir bond.
So in
1754 the town had - new meeting house near the corner o f Mt. Auburn and
Comnon S treets, a building which sheltered the government o f Massachusetts
fo r more than a year during the siege o f Boston.
southern group may have lo s t a war.
the h i l l seceded
In winning a b a ttle the
A hundred years the farmers beyond
and formed the new town o f Belmont, where they would
not be outvoted by the commercial element.
Other roads were opened as the western p ortion s o f town were
s e ttle d .
A road t# Weston (Belmont S t . ) branched o f f from the road to
the m ill, and beyond the m ill, a road along the r iv e r (Main S t . ) extended
each year farth er to the west.
For many years Main s tr e e t was the only
road connecting Boston with the co lo n ies to the west and south,
The road
from the C harleston fe rry and the road across the neck met a t Watertown.
This was the road o f the Conneticut em igration. Whe King l l i i l i p attacked
Sudbury, Captain Hugh Mason led the Watertown tra in band over i t to d rive
the Indians back across the r iv e r .
Abraham Browne b u ilt h is house, which
s t i l l stands, by the road in the 1690’ s. In 1759, Lord J e ffr e y Amherst,
and his army passed by, going to do memorable things to the Frenchman and
the Indian.. I t was a fa m ilia r road to Paul Revere, and John and Samuel
AJams tra velled i t to the Congress a t P h ila d elp h ia , a f t e r dining a t the
Coolidge tavern. Isra el B is s e l’ s famous r id e to P h ila d elp h ia w ith word o f
the incident at Lexington started here, the dispatch
d a telin ed
Watertown, A p ril 19 Wenesday morning near 11 o ’ c lo c k ." The Congress
responded by adopting the army and sending i t a g e n e ra l.
George
Washington and his escort rode in from the west on July 2, fo llo w e d
7
in December by h is w i f e .
A p o s t o f f i c e was e s ta b lis h e d by the Congress
in the suimer o f 1775, to se rv e the ro u te s to P h ile d e lp h ia and to Crown
P o in t.
I t was lo ca te d on Main S t . , n ea r the b r id g e .
Knox brought the
cannon from Ticonderogs o v e r Main S t . to Cambridge and D o rc h e s te r, and
Washington led h is
Boston.
any ‘
t h i s way to New York a f t e r the B r itis h
For the th ird tim e , an army t r a v e l l e d
w ith h is s u r m d e r e d fo r c e to
S o m e rv ille .
th e road when Burgoyne came
th e p r is o n e r b arracks a t Cambridge and
U n til the r a ilr o a d was
a r te r y o f conmerce, t r a v e l l e d
le ft
b u i l t Main S t . was an im portant
d a ily by m ail and s ta g e coaches , cou ntry
wagons and droves o f c a t t l e . T h is t r a f f i c
brought tra d e to W a tertow i,
and developed a commercial and m anu facturing v i l l a g e n ea r the r i v e r .
Three
tavern s served trade in the v i c i n i t y o f sq u a re, and a fo u rth a t Mt. Auburn ,
helped those who chose to go by th e Charlestow n
f e r r y on t h e i r way.
It w as.G alenSt. that conn acted with the road out o v e r Boston
neck and the b rid ge o v e r Muddy R iv e r .
There was a p ja r e n t ly a f o o t b rid g e
across the Charles a t th e Ga le n S t . lo c a t io n b e fo r e 1640.
I t was made
passable f o r horses in 1648. I t was improved f o r the passage o f heavy
wagons in 1719. It was th e f i r s t ,
and f o r y e a r s th e o n ly b r id g e a cro ss
the C h arles. Secondary s t r e e t s a ls o ap p eared .
One le d from th e lan d in g
along C oolid ge H i l l Rd. and Walnut S t . t o j o i n
th e m i l l ro a d .
Another
(A rlin g to n S t . ) led from the r i v e r a c ro s s M t. Auburn fend Belmont s t r e e t s
to Fresh Pond.
School S t.w as an e a r ly way, as were Common, O rchard, and
Lexington S ts .
The l a t t e r extended to L e x in g to n .
course o f Pleasan t S t .
A cartw ay fo llo w e d the
Warren S t . e x is t e d b e fo r e 1700, as d id Howard S t . ,
known a n c ie n tly as the way to D ir t y G reen.
T h is network o f roads served
the tow\ with few a d d itio n s up to the tim e o f th e R e v o lu tio n .
" D ir t y
Green -
a patch o f meadow on the r iv e r bank west o f Howard S t.
name Is ancient.
There Is no hint as to it s o r ig in .
The
An ancient tra d itio n
says that Lord J e ffre y Amherst camped on D irty greenon h is way to Lake
George in 1758.
His army landed in Boston, and a ft e r three rnonths on
shipboard, they quickly became a problem .
They might w e ll have bean
moved to this place ju st above the f a l l s , exposed to the fewer temtationa
of Watertown, where th e ir heavy equipment and guns could be brought by
waterto the f a l l s .
Lord J e ffr y him self no doubt stayed at the tavern
which stood on Main S t. near Howard, or perhaps at he famous establlshm m t
of Mrs. Coolidge near the bridge.
From Watertown to Lake George, i t was
walking a l l the way, out Main S t, and many weary m iles beyond.
The r iv e r had an importance in the seventeenth and eighteenth
centuries that has changed with changing tim es.
energy, and transportation.
I t represented food,
The Indiana no douot nad a fis h e r y a t the f a l l s
when the f ir s t s e ttle s came, but were soon dispossed.
In 1632, Governor
Winthrop granted Watertown the rig h t to ere c t a w eir in the r iv e r below
the r a ils to catch the herring which came up to spawn in Boyd's and Cook's
ponds.
An area o f 150 acres south o f the r iv e r was granted to the town
to protect the fis h e ry .
The towi seems to have owned the w eir a t f i r s t ,
but ownership soon passed to Thomas Mayhew, and a f t e r a period back to
tne towi.
An application o f the A d lan s to be perm itted the r ig h t to fis h
here was rejected by the Town Meeting o f 1671
«a s one man".
I t was said
that 100,000 fis h were taken here on two tid e s in the 17th century.
mpor.ant was the fish ery that when Waltham and Weston were set o f f
fr o „
they r e ta l„ ed . 8hare Jn
•a the ™ , » t . ioKlce o f th, Mgreit brldge„ ^
Boweyer
h>(j ^
jh > rt
Uatertoun uhuh uas __ con > tB i[
9
source o f expense.
E arly In the 19th cen tu ry t h is arrangement was
term inated, and W atertowi assumed r e s p o n s i b i l i t y f o r the b r id g e , and
re c e iv e d a l l income from the f i s h e r y , which e q u a lle d the sch ool budget a t
the tim e.
In i860 th e re were no b id s f o r the fis h in g p r i v i l e g e .
The man
who had held i t f o r some yfcars re p o rte d th a t p o llu t io n had low ered the
f is h population so mich th a t f is h in g was no lo n g e r p r o f i t a b l e .
The
r e c e n tly (1850) e s ta b lis h e d gas works were blamed f o r th e p o llu t io n .
A m ill at the f a l l s
i s mentioned as e x is t in g in re co rd s o f 1638.
I t was f i r s t a g r i s t m i l l , and g r a in was ground a t the f a l l s u n t il 1890.
A sawm ill was soon added, and a fa c t o r y s e ttle m e n t grew h e re .
b u i l t , and a canal to supply m i l l s between i t and the r i v e r .
d e lta formed an in d u s t r ia l is la n d .
The dam was
Thus the
Here by 1800 th e re were g r i s t m i l l s ,
saw m ills, a f u l l i n g m i l l , a c h o c o la te m i l l ,
paper and c o tto n m i l l s .
Nearby was a shipyard and a sugar r e f i n e r y , w ith a d i s t i l l e r y a sh ort
d ista n ce down r i v e r .
The W atertowi f a l l s marked the head o f n a v ig a t io n on a t i d a l r i v e r
which was n a v iga b le f o r sm all v e s s e ls .
S in ce i t was a lon g tim e b e fo r e
passable roads were a v a i l a b l e , heavy goods w ere moved by w a ter whenever
p o s s ib ly and Uatertovm was an im portan t t r a n s fe r p o in t f o r the towns
ly in g in lan d. Timber was f lo a t e d down the r i v e r , and Watertown found i t
n ecessary s e v e ra l tim es to seek r e l i e f from th e G en eral Court from the
p ie s o f lumberon the riverb a n k and a lo n g the roads n ea r the r i v e r which
Impeded passage. (1738)
W ater tr a n s p o r ta tio n was a g o vern in g f a c t o r in
the 8e^e c t l °n o f the Watertown s i t e f o r th e lo c a t io n o f th e A rs e n a l.
Coal barges came to wharves in B righ ton and to the gas works in th4
present cen tu ry.
Now the r i v e r tra n s p o rts o n ly sewage.
10
The r iv e r wa. an obececle to tr a v e l • • w ell aa • thoroughfare,
mA ( r a f f l e we. co.caatr.tad a t th . r lv a r croaalaga.
A v i l i a g . gram up
about th . bridge aad .111* •• workers home, were b u ilt between Main S tre e t
end the riv e r and the r iv e r and on Galen S tr e e t.
The n -n u f.ctu rin g
v illa g e had l i t t l e in comon with the farms whose c i v i c center was the
wandering meeting house.
Since three o f the to r n * , fou r taverns were
nearby, it seems that the s o cia l center was a t the b rid ge.
In a census o f 1764, Watertown reported 103 houses, 117 fa m ilie s ,
179 white males over 16, 195 white females over 16,172 white males under 16,
136 white females under 16, 5 male negroes, and 6 female negroes, who were
lis te d as sla ves*to ta l 693.
The slaves were not included in the t o t a l .
The f i r s t federal census o f 1790 reported a t o t a l population o f 1091.
The
rather large growth in tw en tyfive years must have c h ie fly in the v illa g e
rather than the farm population, fo r the fam ily subsistence farms were
becoming fewer.
When Watertown became the c a p ita l o f Massachusetts during the sie g e
o f Boston, while the Assembly and Council met at Common S tr e e t, the b rid ge
was the center o f a c t iv it y .
The Coolidge Tavern nearby waa tha refreshment
place o f o fficia ld o m , and the s h e lte r o f v is i t i n g n o ta b les, Inclu ding George
Washington.
Paul Ravere set up h is press nearby to p rin t the currency.
HmIy Knox, and Joseph Palmer, a member o f the Committee o f P u b lic S a fe ty ,
llva d ° n Cal8n S tre e t.
« • * •£ th . r lr e r , n d m
n .e r .
Edes brought h is press out o f Boston a t n ig h t, by
I t up near t h . b rid ge on the north tid e o£ the
Her. he puhllehed th . "Boston C e t t e * during t h . s ie g e .
J lre t poet o f f ic e e.teb lleh ed b , the P r o . ln o l. l C o n g r... w
neighborhood.
Th.
. U o In th is
The Ml M l * Year*
fh« aarly s a ttle rs had held farm* o f modest s it e , four to ten acres
fo r the aost part, in the aettled part of to w hut held graslng righ t* on
esoaon land* which extended to Concord.
Moat o f the common land was in
area* later aet o f f into other t o w * . In 1775 there sera s lig h tly fever
freeholder* then there were founder* in 1630, but the area of the to w had
been greatly reduced.
Only about a f i f t h o f the founder none* are among
those who answered the c a ll to Lexington, so the exodus from W atertow had
already begun, but meny of the missing names would no doubt be found in
Waltham, Weston, and Lincoln* .On the other hand, two th ird s o f those on
the Lexington listb e rc mamma that were among the founders, indicating a
very stable population. By the early 1800*a, many of the small holdings
had been gathered into la rg e r farms and gentleman** estates.
One of the early large holdings, which existed at the time of
the involution was that o f several related Whitneys, who o w ed the area
bounded by Main, Lexington, Orchard, Common, and Mt Auburn S t. except fo r
strip s along Mein and Mt. Auburn S ts . Whitney** h i l l was included in the
f * * i l y holdings.
A large portion o f th is land became the estate of
Abijah W ilts a wealthy c a tt le dealer, about 1810.
His mansion, the Sima,
stood until recently at the corner o f White** ave and Main S t.
His
holding included the h i l l , which became White** M ill, and extended to
Palfrey mad Mt, Auburn S ts.
Another estate established at the same time
(1800-1810) was that o f Governor Gore.
While the mansion, s t i l l standing,
*** lfl w* ith* * » tb* estate Included many W atertow acres, extending
from Main St. te the r iv e r .
Harrison Gray O tis b u ilt Oakley at this
Provided extensive grounds.
The house burned some years ago
12
tat
w a i i l n . . f t . r— f .
• « • * * <=1“ b- th* ~ U " » *
• f this srs In Uatertow.
Shortly sfto r those mansions -ore b u ilt, a U rg e tra ct In la st
Watertown was bought by the United States government, and the f i r s t
buildings o f the Arsenal were b u ilt.
In the report recomandlng the
purchase o f this s ite , the a v a ila b ility o f aster transport by the r iv e r
was stressed as a major consideration.
m the 1830's another large part o f East Watertown became the Mt.
Auburn Cemetery.
Established by a group connected with the Massachusetts
Horticultural Society, i t was the pioneer gardes cemetery, a r t fu lly
landscaped, and planted with rare h orticu ltu ra l specimens,
The attractions o f Watertown as a country residence continued to
be appreciated by the wealthy o f Boston, and great country esta tes as
well as more modest second homes appeared among the remaining farms.
Oishlig, a m illion aire China merchant, attempted to buy W hlte'e
h il l to establish an estate, but he was told that he did not have money
enough to buy i t .
Mr. White valued hla h i l l h igh ly, fo r Mr Cushing had
a greet deal of money, perhaps more than any other American o f the time.
Wishing went north o f Belmont S t. and developed a luxurious esta te in the
part of Watertow which la te r became Belmrat.
Nathaniel Whiting had an elegant mansion on the eastern slope
• f White's H ill, about the corner o f Mapshall and Church S ts.
Here he
p e r ta in e d Charles Dickens during the la ters American tour.
Another great estate, developed a l i t t l e l.te r.w a s that o f
A lv .»
.t ~ d «
f<lund„
. b . « t„. M
,f
, f th> „ r l j „ pr. . . coap„ l M ( n , w m M m
),
Clyd. „ d c r „ r
urioUDII. <| by
13
m a s , and fountain**
1ho estate Included a dear park, and a hard a f
blooded dairy cattla* It extended on tha north side of Mt* Auburn St*
fro * the Oaklay proparty to H illa id a I d . , from Balmont St* to Mt*
Auburn St*, and includad tha land an Adaaa Ava and Shattuck JLd.
South of Mt. Auburn S t ., tha aatata includad a l l tha land between Spruce
St, and Adame S t*, aa fa r south as the lin e of Spruce and Laurel Sts.
In this area ms b u ilt one of tha f i r s t g o lf lin ks in America*
joeiah Stickney, banker and sugar magnate, had a great aatata
near the rive r which was la t e r purchased by tha Parkins In stitu te fa r
Shdhr new school.
Adjoining to tha west was tha Ladd estate o f equal
sisa* South of the riv e r most o f tha land west o f Galen St* was tha
property a f Dr* Morse*
Other Boston Merchants had la s s pretentious homes where they fle d
tha heat of Boston in the summer months, returning to the c ity in the
winter*
One such was tha Templeton place a t Templeton Park wry and Mt*
Auburn st*
Its owner l e f t a tru st fund fo r tha poor o f the town*
ifcich of the land not taken up in eatatae was gathered into a
few large commercial farms, supplying the Boston market, and tha family
farms a f tha early days disappeared*
The industrial development which follow ed the Revolution, and
accpllerated taring the aribnrgo and the war o f 1812 was re fle c te d along
the Charles*
New and la rg e r s iilla were b u ilt at the lev e r f e l l a , and
houses fo r mtrkmen m ultiplied* Further upriver the f a l l s at Bends had
Gore
been used by Governor fo r a paper m ill(h ie estate extended th is f a r ) .
Thie property was acquired early in the 1800*a by the Benda brothers
^
bet ten v i l l a there*
A v illa g e o f m ill workers developed in
14
* . v ic in ity .
S t i l l «u r U .r up. «
.• u h lla h C , 1» • b u lU lM « 1 U
uh.r. cottu. «
th . Wulthu* U 1 U . * » « * • ■— »
.tundins. th . f l r . t .111 In th . - r i d
p r . « . . . d f r « « th . b .1 . t . c l.t h und.r
f l r . t n.d.1 >111111
r ~ f.
H i.
Im llt .long th . r l v . r b .l.u th . U . l t h » f . l l . ,
„ d Welch.* c w »s « WM th . g . t d « . f th . . u p . t l n t « d « t , Patrick Tr.cy
J«ckMU.
T h .lt . p . r . t l « . •»< » . u t g r « th . f . . b l . p . « r . ( th . C h .r l..
m i they tr »i«T .r .d t h .lr noth. t . th . n « « «U 1 t . « . f U u . l l on th .
M erTin ftC .
H*U'a
"Survey o f Boston end it# V ic in ity " (1821) describes
Watertew of the timet
"The compact pert o f the to w o f W etertow is
built principally on the north bank o f Charles R iver, which is navigable
fo r snail sloops (there being fu ll seven fe e t o f water at high spring
tides) up to the bridge; about fo rty rods above the bridge there is a dam
built across the bed of the riv e r which terminates the the tid e water;
This dam furnishes water fo r the supply o f several paper and other m ills
as well as the Watertown Cotton Factory.
There Is a small portion e f the
town south o f Charles River, mi which is situated the Boston Hot Factory,
a d is tille r y and m ills*
The United Stated Arsenal le b u ilt on the north
bank of the riv e r about one mile and a quarter below Watortosi
"
bridge*
*e*d leading to Watertown from Cambridge is sandy and
rather heavy fo r tra v e llin g , and the one from Brighton has ob jectien abls
a c c liv itie s .
At present I should presume the ea siest road to tra v e l is
the one north e f the la te Governor Gerry*e seat, but the contemplated
one from the s i l l dam w ill ba fa r the most preferable I f I t should be made*
* * s o il is generally dry end healthy, end the country sw ellin g agreeably
lDt* ae* l i e" lnaac« » tfieae sides ere ornamented with clu sters o f tre e s .
15
itTy easts, f a r * h w i u and f r u it trs s a .
"Nearly the whole town ie under c u ltiv a tio n , and is bounded easterly
on Cambridge, northerly on Uest Cambridge, westerly on Vial than end southerly
on the te w s of Mewten and Brighton,"
Hales published a map o f W atertew in 1830 which showed l i t t l e
chenge in the street system In a hundred years except that Arsenal and
North Beacon Streets with th e ir connecting bridges had been added.
North
Beacon f t waa the highway by the toil Idem idlieh Bales had f e l t would be the
best acess fffeei Boston.
Both roads connected with Main S t, the western
outlet at Watertown square*indicating the continuing importance o f th is
route in the 1820*s when both these reads wore b u ilt .
The riv e r continued as a channel o f transportation.
passenger from Boston to Watertown landing in the 1820's.
There was a
In 1824 the
Selectmen noted that descending business on the r iv e r (the tinfeer which
had been a nuisance seventy fiv e years b e fo re ) had quite ceased, "ascending
business from the capital into the country i s new very considerable and
hereafter any become very g r e a t ."
As the head o f navigation, Vatsrtowa
was the transfer point fo r a l l th is t r a f f i c .
Watertom in the 1820's was a busy t r a f f i c center.
Three direct
roads from Beaten and the Charles t o w road givin g acess to the north
at Watertow Square, end a l l goods passing up the riv e r
destined fo r the country had to be tran sferred h ere. The only altern ativ e
route, the Worcester Turnpike, opened in 1809 was a t o l l road u n til 1835.
Stage lines from Waltham , Worcester, and Framingham passed through as
« s l l as n ail coaches from New York and Albany.
A constant stream o f
wagons in summer and pungs in winter pasoed to and fro with country
o ro ^ c e fo r Boston, and a l l types o f manufactured and imported goods fo r
16
th . country t . « o .
S t.oa n g, f.odlns m i « r l n , (o r CO. Knndr.d. o f t o r . . .
fo r t h » croft 1c « . «
staplayiMiCo
<1 » « . n t m * ..t r y . o f f . r u * c ~ . l d o r . b l .
By 1830 the increased t r a f f i c supported s ix taverns and tan
re ta il eatabllshmmti.
Buainaaa in th . m ill d ia tr lc t was increasing
( l M f and abeut this timsLewando started to spread his * a d yams an tha
rivertaak to dry.
Hain St. s t i l l retained tha charm o f a country town.
Years la t e r ,
the
an old nan recalling his f i r s t view o f Watertow*, about 184CI said that early
naming view o f Main S t. from the com er o f Howard as he approached from
the vest w s a picture M 1 shall never fo rg et-th e sun was w ell up, fo r i t
was early morning, and as I looked dew the avenue the grand old elstt that
were then la th eir prime arched tha s tr e e t.
With the sunlight straggling
through the thick fo lia g e , the clean morning a ir , and the houses that
lined each side o f the street -not such houses as you w ill now fin d on
many e f our streets, but good old fashioned deoilin gs such as the tiaaa
called fo r, wi ;h th eir om rs or occupants ju st sta rtin g out on th e ir
daily business, made to me one o f the fin e s t views I had ever seen, and
which I shall never fo rg e t. *
But the author e f "A Glimpse o f Watertown" w ritin g only ten years
la ter had a d ifferen t lsipreaSiont
"Many a flimsy eld hovel, sunk deep in the mud
That perchance may have stood since the age o f the flo o d
Greets the eye es you enter the v illa g e
Where young end old topers swallow th e ir drink
Seeking the fou lest o f ruins the brink
And miserly men, hands pocketsd ,wlnk
Wlth *#lflBhnM * Plain on th e ir vis a g e ."
17
He w s t here « t e r e d t o w by • d iffe re n t road.
The civic c w te r fin a lly came to Mein a t, aa the resu lt o f a change la the
Massachusetts Constitution (1835) rtiich ended the support o f the church by
the to w .
vayt.
The First Farish * “ d the ®*,<n
c**®* to the parting of the
Aparently neither wished to retain the old nesting house on Cosnon
S t ., and it nos torn dot®.
For ten years the tons had no place fo r nestings.
Sene neat lags at least were held in the vestry o f the new Baptist Church
at Baptist uelk.
In 1846 a Tow H all was b u ilt on Main S t. at Church.
Unfortunately i t was placed on a sn a il l o t .
The building was In the then
popular Greek Kevival s t y le .
I t provided a h a ll fo r nestings, and space
fo r to w o ffic e s and a j a i l .
At f i r s t the f i r s t flo o r was le t fo r stores.
The Free Public Library replaced one o f these in 1866.
At la s t the c iv ic
center had finished it s long nig rat ion o f aore than two hundred years and
jelned the cosnercial center at the f a l l s .
Uecertow was s u ffic ie n t ly renote fro a Boston in those days to
support entertainnwts and lec tu res, and the T ow H all was extensively
used as the ealy theatre in t o w .
it s stage neny tin ea.
No doubt bloodhounds chased E lisa across
Perhaps d ra w by the re s id w c e in t o w o f a nunber
o f loaders in the r e fe r * novenents o f the day such fig u re s as Snerson
P h illip s , Garrison, Parker, Beadier, Dana, Heines and Lowell appeared on
it s platform.
Father Mathew, the fanous Ir is h tenperaace leader was a
W illlan
house guest o f Abljah White n i a a doubt appeared la the f e w H a ll.
Perhaps the old Ttow H a ll*a greatest noneat was the night i t
opened it s doors to W w dell P h illip s , who had been denied the use o f Fanuel
^*11 for an abolition speech. Posters in Boston urged a march on V aterto w
ta prevent his speaking there, and a band o f a b o litle n ls t a girded fo r his
18
p »-" -«* »•
.£ «.»«.«
th,rt5’ •“ i - rt c u i i “ ‘
*» "y °>* * • « Cl,rk * • kMr " • * " (th*r * * * * ao
regular police fe r e .) bed nethlsg te de.
WhlU the Mesaachusatta Constitution o f 1780 govo tho Congregational
Church preferred statue, and tax support, i t did not forb id other re lig io u s
groups.
Wstertom seems te have had a tendency to conformity in r e lig io n ,
U r no other churches appeared u n til 1828 *tfn s Uni versa l i s t Church was
built en Galen St. at Water, th is congregation was draw la rg e ly from
Newton.
Church.
In 1830 a group withdrew from the F irst Parish and formed a Baptist
heir building was at Baptist Walk and Mt. Auburn S t.
church was bu ilt at the same location in 1858.
A second
The preamat building at
Coanon St. wss bu ilt in 1900.
When the meeting house on Cooraon S t. was pulled down, the F irs t
Pariah ehich wss now becoming Unitarian in doctrin e, b u ilt a new church on
a large le t near the center on Church end Summer S t.
This bu ilding burnt
in e great f ir e tdiich awipt from Mein S t. to Summer S t. (1840).
mas fin a lly contained by a bucket brigade o f
papor o f tha day reported.
The f i r e
"fe s a le s * aa a Boston
Another building was raised in 1842.
The
congregation chose to build in Victorian Gothic rather than in the cla a a ic
style of thoir tra d ition .
This building succumbed to changing times in 1975.
®ac^*n* First Parish no longer had enough members to support so
largo a church.
Di« next church b » d , .1 m
St* ■ **»
the WelliBgtee h c e te y
St.
fr e e member, e f Che F ir s t P .r l.h ,
They f i r s t met In . h e lU ln g f e » r l y u.ed by
on Church H i l l .
The, b u ilt . nee church en Hein
the f i r , .t e t ic o . . . .t m d , In 18* 7,
fh e lr present church en
19
m Mt. Mi bum SC. wee completed la 1870*
lh M « churches had a l l g r e w aut a f tha aid P lra t Pariah,
The
next congregation had quite a d iffe re n t o r ig in , which foretold a great
cheng* In tha to«n*a population.
S t. P a t r ic k s congregation which had
net fo r ahert tine In tha Temi H a ll, ac<plred tha e ld Academy
abandoned by tha Methedleta.
building
It la aaid that the purchase was made
through a straw, who professed to be acting f a r a hat factory.
Thera is
•imposed to have bean consternation among tha Methodists tdien they found
that they had inadvertently given papery a nest to hatch in .
A brick
church was immediately started nearby which s t i l l stands, used by the school.
The preemit building on Main S t. was consecrated in 1900.
S t i l l another church was formed from the F irs t Parish in 1855.
Called fa r years the irthedox
Church, i t erected I t s house an Mt.Auburn
St. at P h ilip s. Perhaps re fle c t in g the orthodoxy eftfchtr
doctrines, they
b u ilt in the cla ssic colon ial s t y le .
Four new congregations had become e a ta b ll thed in twmty years
'Mere one had su fficed fo r two hundred, re fle c t in g a widening perspective
in the tem .
Tha Episcopal Church at lu s e e ll A v e., b u ilt in 1883, completed
the town!a o rigin al quota o f churches. The b u ild ers o f these churches along
Mt. Auburn S t. showed no tendency to group them about a common center.
The origin a l surveys fo r the Worcester h a ll read, la t e r the Beaten
and Albany, projected a route through U atertom , follow in g the ancient
highway.
The objections o f the environmentalists and large property owners
prevailed, aid the lin e passed through Newton.
Abijah White, e<piire o f
The opposition was led by
"The Elms*1, a wealthy c a tt le d ealer end the tewe’ e
tirut c itlsa n , r iv a lle d only by Nathaniel Whiting who did not often concern
20
hi— l f -1th 1—c «l r f f . l « .
1.
out
Whit. « . r c l . r f «
U
M
.
.Ifflc u lt t .
tlhht. K« fhTM - -1th p r.p h .tlc -1.1.B t h .t th . r .tlr v c d
H i . p«sting thing, m i p r.d lc t.d th .t - j w r g c d c h l U r ® - i l l . . . th .
tr.c k . f t . up-
Ih . 11c. through H M U . —
Uatertow went into « decline.
— » l « r f to W o r c f r u
KM.
No longer woo it o position os
head of navigation on the Charles important.
No longer one I t en the
main line from Boston to the in te r io r . The mail coaches from New York end
longer
Albany no stopped at the Weterteies p o s to ffic e . The stre ets were no
longer busy with stage-coaches and wagons, i t s taverns ne longed crowded
with trsvelers and teamsters.
The railroad age fin a lly came to Watertom In 1846 when the
brmeh line from Cambridge to Waltham was completed. Abijah White did
long
not liv e to suffer the indignity o f having his mansion cut o f f from h is
beloved h ill by the hated r a ils .
The ra ilro a d brought a re v iv a l to
Watertowt, by bringing transportation to i t s growing industries and a
new inctastrlal rone develc ped along i t s tracks, merging at places with
thet along the riv e r .
Passenger service to Boston augmented by a haras
car lin e started in 1857 began Watertown's development as a bedroom
terns.
By the middle o f the 19th century the terns had changed completely
from a settlement o f small farms centered en a church.
Continuous
development was making i t ana e f the leading in du strial towns in the
state, though the industrial v illa g e use surrounded by g m t t l e M 's
estates and mazltet gardens.
The more rural northern section a ft e r a
long struggle pereuaded the U g i . l . t u r e to aet i t o f f a . a naw tesai in
W 5».
Thl. M m J
th . f l c . l e c u
r f th . eld . p i n t .1 d i e t y
uf th . b.d f . t l l n g T d t l c , f « «
h .v « b o
th . k l C p p l n , , f th .
21
house « •
hundred y « r « before.
The Island between the riv e r and the canal was crowded with m ill
buildings.
The anclant g r is t m ill s t i l l ground on. A sash and blind
factory was nearby.
The paper m ill had become Helingswsrth and Whitney,
and Lawsnda's dye works wag becoming
Watertew.
know fa r beyond the borders of
The Walker Pratt foundry had been added In 1830.
South
of the river another In du strial d is t r ic t had developed hocuums flslsn s t o
and the riv e r,
a
lumber yard, o w e d by the fath er o f Charles Brigham the
eminent architect, f i l l e d the area now vovered by the car yards.
works were near the riv e r nteth o f Hunt S t.
where coal was delivered to th e ir wharf.
a starch factory.
The gas
They extended to the riv e r
The d is t ille r y had given way to
A lace factory a id a soap works were nearby. D istributors
o f building m aterials, grain , coal and other heavy goods brought by the
railroad set wf alscg the tracks on Arsenal S t.
The industrial developewnt and improved acess to Boston brought
an Increasing demand fo r re sid e n tia l property, and Watertown's fin a l
phase, a residential suburb, began.
estates to be broken up (1832).
Abljah W hite's was the f i r s t o f the
S treets were la id out between
Palfrey and Main atreets and they soon f i l l e d with houses. Another
development
attempted by a Mr. Boyd at the Newton lin e about the tins
of the C ivil War.
Boyd and Morse S treets were b u ilt up at th is tin s .
It
la said that the venture was not sucessful finane 1s ly , and that banks md
Individuals lo st hesvlly.
The population, which had been 1091 in the f i r s t Federal censis
ln l790» 8r «® In W30 to 1640, and in 1850 to28 37. In 1859 W atertow
n,d lost about one f if t h of i t s population (600) and one th ird o f it s
22
to th . new town o f B «l™ n t.
Ih . U M
» . r . th . - o r . . . .1 t h ,,
reflecting th. growing working c l . . . popwl.tlon o f U . t . r t o « .
By 1865, the loss hsd been more then made up, end the populetion
hed grow to 3779, r e fle c tin g probebly the war time e c t l v l t l e e o f the
Arsenal, Welker 6. Fratt end the t e x t ile m ills .
The population was changing.
the Revolution has been remarked upon.
The s ta b ility o f the population before
In 1865, while moat o f the the
inhabitants were native born, a quarter were not.
A more s ig n ifica n t
s ta tis tic with portent fo r the future appeared in 1878, when n ative born
Inhabitants produced 34 b irth s , while Irish bom parents produced 50.
The
handwriting was on the wall fo r Yankee Watertown.
The changing character o f the population is also evident in a
l i s t o f men e lig ib le fo r the d ra ft In 1864.
A wide va rie ty o f trades is
lis te d , as well as laborers, but o f 440 men there were but 17 fa rm ers ,...
23
The Last Hundred Years*
Watertown's entry Into the modern age began In the 1880's* 4a
the decade began, in sp ite o f growing fa c to r ie s , the v illa g e aspect
remained* Farmers s t i l l brought th eir grain to be ground at the g r is t
. i l l near the bridge.
There was no water system, and of course no sower*.
The old tarn pump stood in the middle o f Main St* opposite Galen, though
the aore prosperous had th e ir o « w e lls (and th e ir o «
close proximity)*
sewers, ofteA in
A f i r e main had been la id in Main St* as f a r as W hite's
Ave* Hater was supplied from the r iv e r , under pressure from the steam
puape at Walker & Pratt and Hollingsworth & Whitney*
Steam was by
now supplementing the r iv e r fo r powering the growing demands of the
factories*
Several underground re se rv o irs about the town served-
horse draw steam pump provided
by a
fo r f i r e service beyond the center*
The Stock Yards (1872) were the ra llro a d b greatest tontrlbution
to Watertown commerce*
The Union Market Stockyards extended from
Franklin and Walnut stre e ts to the ra ilro a d *
C attle from the West, and
from northern New feglend were unloaded here fo r the Tuesday morning
cattle market and held in pens fo r la t e r d eliv ery to the Brighton
slaughter houses*
th eir fin a l destiny*
:t le were herded down Arsenal St* to
Plve tracks accomodated the a rriv in g trains,and
the area between the tracks and Walaut St* maa' covered with pens*
So
w»ch business mss done a t the yards that a new bank, the Union Market
National was chartered (1873) to handle i t .
Another adjunct to the yards was the Union Market House on
Walnut St* i*ic h served the c a tt le dealers and drovers, and was Watert o w 's
Sodge City*
The liv e c a ttle trade in the east dwindled with the
24
development of r .fr lg e r .t lo n , aad Texas longhorn. -ere eeldom seen In
W .t .r t o « etreet. e fte r 1900.
Trede In north country c e t t l . continued Into
this century, end the Tuesday morning a rriv a l o f the c a ttle train s wee an
event, at least fo r the younger part o f the population.
The yards,
continually complained o f a nuisance had th e ir la s t use In 1914-1918
uhen horses and ssilea uere held there waiting shipment to Burope.
A map o f 1875 shows grant expanses o f open apace about the center.
Streets had bem laid out aa fa r as Spruce on the south side o f Mt.Auburn
St. and to Russell Ave on the north, but there were few houses beyond the
cemetery on either side.
extended to the railroad.
Opposite the cemetery, the Lemmon estate
s till
The grant estates o f Ladd and Stickney, Adana
and Pratt (Oatley) and the Coolidge farms s t i l l dominated East tiatsrtwaa.,
while great farms covered most o f West and North Watertovei.
Mt. Auburn St. terminated at Main.
behind Main St
The m ill canal ran ju st
and rejoined the r iv e r opposite R iversid e.
The whole
area of the island thus formed was clo sely b u ilt with fa c to r ie s . Watertovei
Square was the intersection o f Main and Galen s tre e ts .
Here stood the
the fla g pole and the town pump.
Beyond the central area there were open f ie ld s . On the north
side of Mt. Auburn St toward la st Watertovei thare only three side
streets east o f Coonon: Russell ave, Just opened but not b u ilt upon,
School, and Arlington.
Only seven houses faced Mt. Auburn S t. botwaan
CotBoon St# *nd the old Klchsrdson Tavern.
South of Mt. Auburn S t. beyond Walnut the situ ation was ™*ch
the same.
Lincoln tod * pruce
h.d been b u ilt.
had bafln U ld Qut# ^
ft<)
The s tre e t, between Nichols Ave and Mt. Auburn S t. war.
25
b«ing developed but there were few houses.
Ten houses faced Mt. Auburn s t .
on this side betvoofc Walnut S t. and the Cambridge lin e .
Orchard St. ran between farms, Locke's on the north f i l l i n g the
south slope of the h i l l .
The fown Farm and Almshouse were located
on the
present toan property, with the pest house across Orchard S t ., on the
present school house lo t . The Lovell farm was beyond on Waverly Ave.
Several streets had been b u ilt up about the d e lta , where the the meetinghouse
of 1720 had stood.
Palfrey St. was the boundary o f the b u ilt up area north of the
center.
Beyond White's Ave.,north o f the railroad, streets had been la id
out to Waverly Avenue, which ended at Fayette S tre e t.
development, and few houses had been b u ilt .
This was a new
The names o f th e ir owners
forcast that this d is t r ic t , when f u lly b u ilt twenty years la t e r , would be
called "Limerick” . The Iris h were not welcome in the settled areas of
were
to w and there two other detatched Iris h settlements. The o ld e r was at
the end of cottage S treet, between the ra ilro a d and the old Catholic
c«M te ry .
This was called the "Sand Banks".
The other was at G ren ville
Bead, near the top o f the h i l l , which became widely know aa "Bvennan's
H ill" in honor of the pioneer s e t t le r in th is remote outpost.
line
Belmont, Warren, Main, and Waltham stree ts ran to the Waltham with
a few scattered houses as they had before 1700. South o f Main Street
of the center farm land stretched to the r iv e r .
on this side was Howard, the o ld
wmst
The la s t stree t o f f Main
"Way to Dirgy Green".
South of the riv e r the Page (form erly Morse) estate s t i l l occupied
raoat of the west side o f Galen S tree t.
completely b u ilt to the Newton lin e .
The Boyd development was now
Two large ponda, Boyd's and Cook's
26
« r . e.at of Watertow S treet, with en 1c. houa. on W a t.r to * S traet.
Oppoaita tha and o f Mt. Auburn S treet, foundry buildings and
aavaral anall shops ware built partly over tha canal.. Pro* hare to tha
•quare at Galan Straat thera were aavaral atorea and shops, betwaen tha
canal and Main St.
Bayond tha square, aavaral stores, tha aavlnga bank.
m i tha Union Market National opposite the fo%» Hall completed the buaines
d istrict on that side o f Main S treet.
The horae car lin e had i t s terminal
an this aide, about halfway between Churh and Crosa S tre e ts .
Main street waa residential on th is side.
Tha rest of
The Catholic rectory occupied
part of the lo t where the church now stands.
S t. P a trick »c church stood
on the h ill where the building is s t i l l used by the school.
Tha area
between Main Street and the riv e r was mostly b u ilt up as fa r as Howard
Street.
There was a school on the west corner o f Howard S tre e t, beyond
there were but fiv e houses to the Waltham lin e .
The Otis Brothers
Streets.
stare tws at the corner o f Main and Spring
The block behind i t to the ra ilroa d was la rg e ly taken up with
tha express station and liv e r y stables.
Between Spring and Church S treets
stood a line of stores, one o f which contained the Post O ffic e , the
Spring Hotel, and on tha corner o f Church S treet, the Town H a ll.
Library was on the lower flo o r o f the Town H a ll.
The engine house was
behind the town Hall, and the lockup in the Town Hall basamant.
yard and freigh t
The
A coal
docks spread along the the ra ilro a d In th is block.
yards widened to seven tracks.
The Waterto** passenger depot was at
Church Street, the building now used partly as a restu raat, and u n til
recently Partly aa a brmch bank.
■..Id . bUKk . [ .t o r ,. .
The western corner o f Church S treet
, . yoild th, „ rth
of
J trM t
The
27
r e s id e n t ia l except fo r the Methodist church tdiich stood on the f i r e
property
s ta tio n lo t. The lsrge Titcombe ls t e r become S o lston stoll Pork.
Seyond White's svenue the "Kims" s t i l l stood, the lo st
Uhlto*s greot estote.
remnant o f Abijeh
Residences with rother lsrg e grounds continued
os
for os the re 11rood, but from here to the Wolthorn lin e there mere only
four houses on this side o f Msin S tree t.
Berween Arsenel Street end the r iv e r , mss m other greot open space.
Beyond Irving and Ladd Streets were the Ledd, Stickney, end Cossidy estotes,
ns wsll os several smaller places.
Mock of the open land not included in gentlemen's estates wss
devoted to coanerciel market gardens and dairy and stock forms.
The market
gardens were highly developed commercial enterprises supplying the Boston
market with fru its and v e getable*.
It wss before the days of re frig e ra to r
car,canned goods, and frozen foods, and the farms in the surrounding to w s
were the only source o f fresh produce fo r the c i t i e s .
The fie ld s were
lntmtsively cultivated, using to a great extent the p le n tifu l organic
product from the many stab le s o f Boston, but some chemical fe r t ila s e r s were
coming into use.
Most o f the farms had U r g e areas under g la s s , and they
extensively Irrig a te d , using artesian w e lls developed on the property.
Th addition to the usual products there was a s p e c ia lis t in straw berries,
end e f lo r i s t .
The farms were extensive employers o f la b o r, and an
inportatt addition to the economy.
One farm processed 1000 b a rre ls o f
pickles annualy from it s crop.
Some o f the estates also farmed, and the Adams estate supported
* herd o f prise c a ttle , housed in a born with each cow's name above it s s t a l l .
Th« » . t attra ctive area in t o « was the hoi lew between Coolidge
H ill and the riv er, in recent year, u.ed fo r the t o « dump end in cinerator.
A brook rising near School and Mt. Auburn S tre e t, made i t . -ay through tha
meadows between wooded bank, and a . e r i e . o f pond, to the r iv e , juat
below Arsenal Street.
The bank, were remembered in la te r years fo r th e ir
profusion of wild flowers.
The pure waters provided ic e in winter and an
ice house stood between the two ponds where the brook crossed Arlington
Street.
pond.
Glen Road, now Clarendon S treet, ran along the shore o f the lower
In the 1880*s a resort h otel, the Glen house,
shore to take advantage o f the charming lo ca tio n .
was b u ilt on the
The area is such
changed, tho some traces o f the brook and ponds can be seen in the
ooting swamp under the overflow from the town dump.
Th« hotel had a b rief but in terestin g h is to ry .
In i t s upstairs
ballroom Jake K llrain defeated Joe Lennon in 11 rounds (1888). I t was
operated by Sadie Dow who the Watertown
"E nterprise" described as
"a woman well know on the streets o f Watertown".
The h otel was luxuriously
furnished, and contained many expensive paintings which the "& ite rp ris e "
reporter did not consider suitable fo r a fam ily p a rlo r. I t was in frequent
^.rouble with the law fo r liquor vio la tio n s , and was closed when i t was
burned dowi in 1890.
Another pleasant area was the Arsenal grounds w rmv.
shortly a fte r the
C iv il War, there was l i t t l e a c t iv it y th ere.
It s
wide grounds, mostly open land with many trees were a pleasant in te rv a l
near the river.
Its m ilitary garrison fo r guard duty, with th e ir onxning
snd evening guns, and national salu te, on Memorial Bay and Fburth o f July
n° te *° Ch*
w* 11 lnto
displays on July Fourth were much admired.
present century.
Fireworks
29
lh « t o m 's f i r s t step toward modem tinea was a water system.
Ths tom puap snd private w e lls had become inadequate fo r a population of
5000 (1875).
A dry suaoer found many people, th eir malls dry, hauling
water in carts from ths riv e r which fis h had considered m f i t fo r use fo r
twenty years.
Tests o f w ells by the new Board o f Health produced some
results which should have been alarm ing.
A fte r a long and heated discusai
as whether a water supply was needed, and then over what type, action was
voted in 1880.
Mains were gradually extended through the to m , reaching
the remotest streets by 1884.
The tom pump was removed in 1886. A fte r
an m satisfactory experience with a private company, the tom purchased
ths system in 1896.
Water was supplied from w e lls near the riv e r ju st
below the Waltham lin e .
This supply source was discontinued when
Watertown Joined the Metropolitan system (1900).
Sewers soon follow ed, th e ir advent hastened by a secession
movement south of the r iv e r , where the people petitioned the Leg is le t ere
in 1884 to be separated from Watertown and join ed to Newton.
They
claimed among things in fe r io r municipal services from W atertom .
sewer system was therefor started south o f the riv e r*
renewed every year u n til 1891 idien i t mas abandoned.
to ths new sewer system.
the tom to secede.
The
The appeal was
Possibly a tribute
This was the la s t e ffo r t so f a r o f a portion o f
The sewer system reached a l l over tom in 1892, and
in 1897 a l l houses were required to connect to i t .
The Odorless
Excavator was seen no more on the s tre e ts .
An s le c trlc car lin e appeared on Mt. Auburn S t. In 1894, and
•con other lin es extended along Main Street to Waltham, and by connecting
lines to Worcester snd beyond.
A lin e up Galen Street
gave another
connection with Boston, snd th srs wars soon lin o s on Arssnal snd North
JO
n — s tr, . t , . Th. nav e le c tric r . U « . y took ovar the proparty o f too Bora,
ear coapany at Ht. Auburn, and constructed l . r g . carbarn, t h . r . which
bacametha Star Market In la te r years.
with the improvement o f transportation f a c i l i t i e s to Boston.
which now included four stre e t car lin es, ana a ateaa ra ilroa d providing
good coorauter service, Watertow entered i t s bedroom t o w phase-a place o f
resldm ce fo r people working in Boston, and the large estates and farms
began to be broken u p.for re s id e n tia l development.
Many o f the new
The f i r s t large development,
residents had l i t t l e In terest in the t o w .
the Russell estate, between Bailey Road and Barnard avenue, extending up
the h i l l to the Oakley Club(l882-4), was follow ed by that o f the Leamon
estate, Chester and Otis S treets (1888),
A portion o f the Ladd esta te,
Ladd Street was developed in the same yea rs.
The Nathaniel Whiting Estate was broken up in the ea rly 1890*-s.
The mansion house waa torn d o w , and house lo ts la id out on O liv e r S treet,
Merlon Road, <nd upper Marshall S t.
I t was an e fflu e n t, upper middle
class neighborhood know fo r years ss Whiting Park.
South o f the r iv e r , the Page esta te, west o f Galen S treet became
Union, E lio t, and Capitol Streets (1897)
With the settlement o f Bates
Road (1899) the le s t open space in the central portion o f the t o w w e
gone with the passing century, but large unsettled arena remained in
Northi , West, and East Watertow.
* re® *
riv e r declined,
*°M" * ° f
ck*ng*d and grew.
The Importance o f the
i t was no longer e source o f food o r an important
*ft "
lM °-
th« - ‘ -“ - t c r y , tho th . CM g r la t .111 ground on
- H . b—
. Increasingly dapaodant
31
upon steaa, and U t # r « l * « t r i c i t y • • th*y outgrew the rether limited power
developed by the f e l l * o f the Charles.
Some Importance as a transportation
route regained un til the Metropolitan D is tric t Commission developments
in the early 1900*a, which included damming the riv e r at boston, so that
tldewatar no longer came to W atertow ( 1908).
Dp to that time coal barges
came upriver to the gas works, the A rsenal, and to several coal yards in
Brighton.
The last ship was b u ilt on the riv e r by John Cassidy, at his
estatesbove the Arsenal.
She was e sp ec ia lly designed fo r operation in
riv e rs, and there was a b r ie f agitation fo r dredging of the riv e r so that
Watertow might be a port again.
was launched in 1891.
The S.S.•Watertown" as she was c a lle d ,
She burned about two years la t e r , and the damming
of the river which soon followed ended the talk o f development fo r
transportation.
A new industrial d is t r ic t grew up in East Watertown.
the same time that
At about
the Walker & Pratt foundry was moved to Union Market
the Hood Rubber Company started i t s plant on Nichols Avenue and Arlington
Street.
It grew in a few years across the ra ilro a d to Arsenal Street* and the
Welker & Pratt property.
These plants with the Arsenal iwde up the
t o o l's largest concentrated in d u strial area.
The development o f the Metropolitan Park system beginning about
1900 brought great changes to the riverbanks, and to the center of
Watertow.
The riv e r was dammed, and parks and boulevards replaced the
coal wharves along it s banks.
The old draw-bridges were replaced by
modern highway bridges, and the r iv e r now c a rrie s only pleasure c ra ft and
**'*“**• ***• to,m
relieved o f the burden o f the "Great Bridge" which
had been such a heavy charge in the early days, and the state b u ilt a
32
- g . t , et—
bridge et C l - “ reel (1907-g).
HecnpolUea C e-eleele. r e t i r e d the r le e r bank, ee fo r up . .
C l - Street the bridge —
the eertk. end t . the M U
l ree l l , chenged.
Hein t . ~ . t C l — et the bridge,
on the ecuth.
The e r e . . . . r
Ht. Auburn Street . . . - t - d . d ecr.ee
the -111 < = «.l « .
l. r g . l , tille d , « d
many 0f Che building* along i t * bank*. Including the g r ia t n i l l , removed,
although a row o f building* remained on Main S tre e t.
A part was b u ilt on
the river bank below Mt. Auburn Street idiere the m ill canal had rejoinad
the riv er.
The area beyond Galen Street tie* unchanged, and remains today
much as it was one hundred years ago.
Possibly Inspired by the general in tereat in parks at the tism,
m urge for coonunity improvement seems to have seised the town about
1890.
The soldiers monument had been dedicated in 1889.
A Part
Department was formed in 1895, and In the I n i t i a l enthusiaa S a lsto n sta ll
Park and Whitney H ill Part were purchased, and several sm aller arose
around town were designated as parts.
common*
At la s t the t o w had a cen tral
The Interest did not la s t long enough fo r any proper development,
or indeed aaintalnance o f the part areas, and a portion o f S a ls to n sta ll
Park«** soon used fo r a school, and la te r a la rg er portion was taken fo r
* aunicipel o ffic e building,
(hie product o f th is period were the
watering troughs fo r horses tdiich were placed in a number o f location s
about the to w .
They were b u ilt o f granite "to la s t a long time" said the
Tow Report.
M evld—ce o f thle lmpulee uee the e ff o r t o f the "Young H— <0
A ..- * !,- ,
n , , , , pubHeetlon - a , u - 1 U e t e r t o - - (r.b ru .ry 1898)
confined f e y U l u . t r . t l - . - d pi „ . o f
^
.. ^
33
visioned i t .
The ■ i l l * in th* D «lt * *re * were to be removed and Mt. Auburn
Street continued to the bridge*
T^e LauMido
The tria n g le 1* *hown covered with trees.
building Is replaced by a bath house and casino on the bank
of a river presunably clean enough to swim in .
Beacon Square is dominated
by a monumental Toro Hall in the space between Arsenal and Mt. Auburn Streets,
share the gaaalias stations now are, dominating the approach over the
bridge free the south.
This building was to include town o ffic e s in one
wing, rod a large h a ll with a stage su ita b le fo r th eatrical rod concert
performances In another.
Saltonstall Park was to be developed, using the streroi, now
covered, behind the Library to feed a lagoon where the f i r e station now
stands.
There were walks, plan tin gs, rod a music pavilion fo r bead concerts.
Near the railroad was to be a playground rod outdoor gym asiua rod
dressing rooms.
A new firehouse which looks very much lik e the present
one was to take the place of the old ?own H a ll.
New railroad stations were to b u ilt at Church Street end at
Union Market.
Grade crossings are to be elim inated, rod the fre ig h t yard
reaoved from the center o f toro.
The stockyards are replaced by a
charming residential d is t r ic t .
Of a l l these frlros the c le a rin g o f the d elta was the only f r u it ,
tho the freight yard and the grade crossings disappeared with the ra ilro a d .
The riverbank was p a r t ia lly cleared by the M.D.C. developments, but th*
land between Mt. Auburn Street and Galen Street was not included in
the park and it s fin a l disposition provided m aterial fo r an unbelievably
K te r p o litic a l war idiich lasted fo r twenty yeara.
A fte r the extension
of Mt. Auburn Street rod the clearin g o f the r iv e r bank there waa a row
34
of old buildings .long th. Msln Street . I d . o f the .p .c e , with . nonde.crlpt
v. c t
lot behind theta. A group, some of «ho.e l e .d .r . -ere u n fortu n .t.ly
leaders of one of the t o w * , p o l i t i c ! fa c tio n ., .ought to h.ve th . building,
remved ind the .r e . Improved.
The to w showed no in terest in the p roject.
The only embellishment of the d elt* wae . drinking fountain which was placed
lear the corner o f Galen and Main s tr e e t, by the Women** Christian Temperance
union in 1908.
When the to w did not act, the interested group bought the
buildings to hold until the to w was ready with a plan.
F in a lly (1924) the
tow bought the property, but the arguments continued over E s th e r the space
should be kept open or used fo r a sh elter fo r stre et car patrons.
Aa the
Tercentenary approached by a proposal to erect a memorial to the Founder,
in the space.
There was also the problem o f trfiat to do with the W.C.T.U.
fountain, which some thought did not lend I t s e l f to a b ea u tifica tion p ro jec t.
Finally the issue was resolved in favor o f an open space.
The Founders
■wusMOt was banished to the riverbank. The W.C.T.U. fountain vanished to
aa unknow destination just as prohibition was repealed.
grassed over and some shrubbery planted.
The
The delta was
"S h elter in the Delta**
faction persisted, and a shelter fo r street car patrons was eventually b u ilt
in 1947, and lasted about twenty years.
The population reached about 10,000 in 1900.
In the next twenty
years most o f the grawth was In East W .terto w , stimulated by the industries
w d, * ^ e r 1912, by the extension o f the subway to Harvard Square.
* large part of the Aden, e .c .t e , north o f Mt. Auburn s t r e e t , end east o f
School, . . f . r
th. top o f th . h i l l , we. developed a . a on i t In th .
y a r . following 1901.
It . . . „
„ r i y ex. „ ple oE connunlty development,
ementHp of a neighborhood clubhouee with tennla co u rt..
35
available to tha purchaaara o f houaaa.
Thia was a aingla house development
intended to attract en upper middle claaa group of commuters to Boston.
That pert of the Adame estate between the Oakley club and School
Street, which had Included the mansion house and grounds, had passed to
another o v e r when the rest o f the estate was so ld .
He replaced the Adams
^naion with another id»en i t burned, but about 1900 the property came into
the posseesslon of the Metropolitan Riding and Driving Club, a resort for
Boston devotees of the new automoblls fad .
drive from Boston
Die club was a convenient
over the new M.D.C. boulevards.
were not confined to d rivin g.
The members* interest
Like the e a r lie r Glenn House, it throve
for some years in spite o f the fact that Watertown was a no license town,
and that gambling was also i l l e g a l , but in 1909 a reform board o f Selectmen
was elected which enforced the laws, and the club was harassed by police
raids.
Like the Glenn House, i t soon succumbed to f i r e , and soon a ft e r ,
this portion of the Adams estate waa developed (1915*1928).
At about the
same time the last section o f that vast property north o f Mt. Auburn Street,
the land between the crest o f the h i l l and Belmont Street waa b u ilt up,
as well as as a large part o f the adjoining Joshua Coolidge farm on
Belmont Street.
The remaining portion o f the Adams estate, lying south o f Mt.
Auburn Street was purchased by former Governor Eugene Foss, who gave the
towi the land for it s new High School (E ast Junior) and the land between
it and Mt Auburn Street.
The new stre e ts la id out in th is area were
largely bu ilt upon by 1918.
The Lincoln-Spruce Street area had been b u ilt up between 1900 and
1915, lower Spruce S treet, Cypress, and part o f Walnut (F U lle r v ille )
36
about 1910.
M ultiple residence* appeared fo r the f l r e t time in thia
develop®ent, but the tim ely edoptlon by the to w o f • new tenemwt lew
put • etop to the building o f
"th ree decker." Oilch p ro life ra te d in
Boston suburbs st that time.
The war (1914-1916) brought great industrial expansion in
East Watertow, especially at the rubber factory and the Arsenal.
Employment at the rubber factory expanded so g re a tly , drawing employees
from a ll over greater Boston in an era tfcen working people did not o n
automobiles, that a loop was constructed south o f Mt. Auburn S tre e t,
between Bleglow Avenue and Arlington S treet so that street-ca rs could
be run between Harvard Square and Hood*s Loop to accomodate them.
A
side track on Arsenal Street permitted sim ilar service between Central
Square and the Arsenal.
A fter the war the tracks were removed and a new
trading canter, Coolldge Square developed.
With th< residential growth o f Bast W atertow came a changing
population attracted by the fa ctories there.
I t was la rg e ly a resident
working population, unlike the commuters who had come to other parts o f
to w .
Th. Irish Influx o f the la te 19th century gave way to those o f
Ita lia n , and Creak o rig in , and these races n o . form an
-aortant part o f the t o « ' a population.
W aterto*.
He. churches uere b u ilt In East
Sacred Heart, Roman Catholic, had been b u ilt In 1895, near
the junction of Belmont and Mt. Auburn S tr e e t ., ..ru in g a . that time a
c -s r e g a tlo . p rin cip a l,, f r o . B . , » n t and b r i d g e , „ n c . t h . n l.gh b .rln g
atertow uas not s e ttle d . As the eaat end f i l l e d In a th ird
st.
Cbthol.c church, s t . ---------------- b u ilt a t School S tre e t0 9 3 S .4 9 ).
James soon joined i t
on the opposite
corner, in the 1950* s three new
37
church#* w#re b u lU lB th* Coolld* e
s t * Stephen,
‘ he Armenian M##»rial Church, and th# Greek Orthordox Church.
North of Mt. Auburn S tree t, the Keenan property, which had once
beat • part of the t o w Conaa.ni, was developed about 1922* Peentlaa, Keenan,
Brlnaer, and S t. Mary Street* were s o lid ly b u ilt within a few years.
The
Kinball place, on the other side o f A rlington , the re st o f the one tine
Conmon where the church and train in g f i e l d had been follow ed(1925),giving
Watertow it s second aoving picture th eatre.
With the opening of the Steam s
estate-Steam s Road to Adams Avenue(1927) the la s t open land in
East
Watertown except the Oakley club and the decaying area near Sawin's
prod which became the town dump, was gone.
On the riv e r bank the Perkins In stitu te fo r the Blind had bought
the Stickney estate fo r th e ir new school, moved from South B o sto n (l9 l0 ).
The development of the adjoining Cassidy estate soor follow ed'R iverton 1913)
The farms in North and West W atertow f e l l to the developers in
quick succession during the 1920*8 and 30* s .
The great Locke farm on the
slope o f Brennans H i l l , west o f Coomon S t. was f i l l i n g with sin gle houses
in the late 1920* s.
The L ovell and Whitney farms on
WaveTly avenue and
Orchard Streets,the Westminister Avenue section , and the stree ts north o f
Main Street to the Waltham lin e , were a l l b u ilt up about th is time
F a irfie ld Cardans came a l i t t l e la t e r .
The Tow farm and
poor house
gave may to the James Russel Lowell School in the 1930*s .
South o f Main Street near the Waltham lin e , building was
going on la the 1930*s.
gave way to apartments.
About 1950, W atertow *a la s t farm, Io d lc e *s,
38
Moit o f the
uore iln gle hou.ei.
feu throe f i l l y .
building. In Watertom p rior to 1915
re s id e n tia l
Betwean 1915 i d
1925. most were two f i t l y
with .
A «mlng by-law p «..ed In 1926 reserved .o e tlo n . o f the
town for single house construction, i d
construction ues o f th .t type.
from 1930 to 1950 most
In the 1950's i d
60's . s e r f s o f
zoning law c h ig es paved the way fo r a p a r ts u t. i d
la te r h igh -rise
apartments in many parts o f t o * .
Ihe Industrial area between P l e a a i t S treet i d
Waltham line continued to grow, embracing i d
d is tric t.
the r iv e r to the
o v e m n ln g the old Benia
The old d is tr ic t along the south side o f the r iv e r u n d erw it
m y c h ig e s . The lumber yard becane the e le c t r ic car yards (1900) which
spread until they engulfed Madame Coolldge's tavern. Ths starch factory
became the S t i l e y Dry Plate, i d
la te r the S t i l e y Steam motor works.
The s ite la now occupied by Bachrach. The soap-
factory became
S ta rlin g
S llo t's bicycle factory, to be followed by h is addresaograph, i d
factories.
The gas works with It s great t i k
w i t in 1935, i d
la te r
several
Industrial establishments occupy the loca tion .
A fter the ver(1918) the stockyards were sold i d
Industries located here.
In Bast Watertom the New B i g l i d Telephone
Co. erected a p l i t on the old Coolidge farm.
wars
several
The period b e t w e i the
was Watertom's most thrivin g as an Industrial tom.
A fter the second war (1945) Watertown started a long decline as
«n industrial tom * l c b accelerated In the s ix t ie s .
The Walker i d
*ratt foundry had closed year. b e fo r e ,it . property acaoroed by h.P.
Geodrich tfio h. a oougnt ^
p
Heo<J
Kxd aov4d sway from Watertom.
^
Jn ^
cU # -d ^
Shortly before, the A r a i a l had
39
cM|ed gytoufecturlng operations in W atertow and placed about h a lf its
property on the market, retaining the rest as a m aterials testing
laboratory.
In addition to these, the town’ s largest industries, several
of the companies who had located in the stockyards a U o l e f t t o w .
These
losses were not made up by a few small industries %d\lch came to town in
those years.
The closing o f the Goodrich plant and o f the Arsenal l e f t nearly
100 acres of land in Bast Watertown
years.
d e ra ile d and they so remained fo r
At this time (1975) a shopping center is planned fo r the
Goodrich land.
The fate of the Arsenal land remains uncertain.
purchased it with the idea o f c o n tro llin g it s future.
The to w
The townspeople
have displayed the seam in a b ilit y to agree on plans fo r it s disposal as
those of an e a rlie r day who quarrelled over the meeting house location.
It would would be a bold man who would predict the future o f th is land.
The population had grown in 1915 to 16,600 and in 1940 to
35,500.
A projection made in 1897 had forcast a population fo r 1940
of 37,000. In 1945 it had reached 37,500, and has grown l i t t l e in the
last thirty years. 1975-
407000*
H
Watertown seems to have la in from i t s e a r lie s t days under some
malign Influence, fa ta l to c iv ic pride and conmflmity fe e lin g .
Rent from
the time of it s foundation with quarrels over the location o f the
meetinghouse, i t was s p lit again and again .
I t lo s t i t s very birthplace
to another t o w , and never developed a c iv ic center.
It s c itize n s have
-hoaiarv in each generation to move away i f they became successful 1.
Of the
families of the settlement or revolutionary periods no representative is
prominent in t o w .
40
Many fortunaa have been nade in U atertom , but they have net been
spent here*
Other man who passed th eir early
years here have eon great
fortunes elsetdtere, but unlike those nurtured in many to m s, none have
remembered the place o f th e ir b ir t h .
No substantial c iv ic foundation
perpetuates the memories o f these forget ten men.
They have suffered the
fe te predicted by the poet fo r the man **uno never to h in s e lf has said
't h is is my o « my native la n d *".
The touq mined out by it s absentse
landlords is barren, the wealth i t has generated spent elsewhere.
J
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Watertown 1975
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