Decorative and Support Fabrics
Fabrics Past and Present
Decorative textiles as we know them today have as many sources as the English
language; each one steeped in its own delightful origin from cultures and lands around
the world. So vast and fascinating is this aspect of textiles, that a large volume could be
compiled to review the road traveled by each of the hundreds of decorative fabrics in
use today. Although the exploration of each textile’s history is beyond the scope of this
book, this chapter does give the design professional a reliable source for defining
fabrics as they are in use today.
The Naming of Decorative Fabrics
Textiles is an area of interior design with its own vocabulary. The chemistry, origin, and
processing of fiber to finished fabric is known as “textile science,” and entails all the
vocabulary of chapters 1-4. Here, decorative fabrics become itself a unique vocabulary.
Having a recognized name for each kind of fabric is convenient. Each can then be
identified, categorized, and specified with relative consistency. Another unique element
to this vocabulary is that each definition represents a category where fabrics can be
identified with commonality, but which are individual. Variety exists in both color and
pattern, and sometimes in weight as well. Certain decorative fabrics may be imitated
through printing or other faux processes. Some fabrics are combinations of two, three or
even more defined fabrics. For example, a damask may have a strie’ background,
making it a strie’ damask. Rather than confuse us, we can use this glossary as reliable
definitions to understand what a fabric really is, and to determine whether it is a pure
textile or a combination.
The sources for decorative fabric names are widely varied, since fabrics have been
evolving for about 6,000 years. The categories of names are as follows:
1. The town, vicinity or region where the fabric originated or became popular,
such as toiles de Jouy (pictorials originating from the town of Jouy, France) or
Paisley (the town in Scotland which became famous for producing this fabric), or
Aubusson, where famous tapestries are still produced in France. Damask has a
history that reaches back to the ancient city of Damascus.
2. The person who developed the fabric and/or technique for producing the
construction, design, or finish. For example, Jean Batiste first produced the
semi-sheer fabric, Batiste, that bears his name. Joseph Marie Jacquard invented
the automated weaving system whereby mass quantities of Jacquard fabrics
can be quickly produced.
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3. The material or fiber source. One example is grasscloth made literally from
oriental grasses, sun dried and woven with cotton threads.
4. The type of yarn that is predominantly used, such as boucle’ yarns becoming a
boucle’ fabric.
5. The descriptive word in another language (most often, French) for the hand or
feel, texture appearance of the piece. For example, chenille in French literally
means fuzzy caterpillar. Another example is corduroy – Welch for a corded
(bound lengths of wood) road (roy) - as opposed to medieval cobblestone street,
with wide and narrow ribs or “wales.” Another interpretaion of this same word is
that its French origin cord du Roi means “cord of the king.”
6. A finish or surface treatment that changes one fabric into an entirely new one.
Broadcloth that is glazed or starched and calendared into a high surface sheen
becomes glazed chintz. Or crushing or pressing a pile in one direction produces
panne’, or chiffon, which is a soft finish.
7. The end use of the textile, such as handkerchief linen. Or outing flannel used
originally for heavy clothing, indicating their use in apparel.
Springboard Knowledge
This glossary (found at the end of this section) can be used as an appendix if desired.
However, the ability to identify fabrics by name, construction, finish and weight is the
basis for correct specification of all textile applications. If a student were to end a
textiles course with a study of fiber, construction and finishes, then a practical
knowledge of interior design textiles is less than half-completed. Hence, this chapter is
the beginning of a thorough knowledge of textile applications, when and how to use real
fabrics.
The Cycle of Popular Usage
Not all fabrics in the glossary are always in use. Current trends inevitably exclude the
use of a few fabrics at any given time. Because of this revolving door of popularity,
some fabrics may not seem familiar. The student should be careful to not exclude any
decorative textile as “old fashioned.” As the pendulum of style swings, there is typically
an invitational return of a textile that enjoyed broad acceptance in an earlier decade or
historic period. It will appear fresh and new upon its return, but it is still the same fabric,
just updated to suit current style trends. Students who embark upon serious careers in
interior design will see this in-and-out-of-fashion trend repeat itself many times
throughout their professional lives. This trend cycle may be as few as seven years from
in-style, to out-of-style, to back-in-style again. More often the cycle is about 15-20 years,
and occasionally, even longer than that. Decorative textiles are wonderful design
components because they are a delight to the human soul, each in its own time, place,
circumstance, and specification parameters.
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Selecting the Right Fabric
A key to success in the selection and application of textiles is to specify them according
to their abilities to perform acceptably for their intended use. Most failures in textile
application takes place not because of poor fabrication or faulty installation, or even
poor quality fabric construction, but because the wrong fabric was selected by the
design professional. Just as humans are all uniquely suited for different jobs and skills,
so are textiles uniquely suited for specific applications. All too often a decision to use a
fabric is based on its fiber, cost, color, texture or pattern. This is unwise. The weight,
durability and finishes should also be a primary factor in selection and specification. The
trick-of-the-trade is to find the right fabric (weight, construction, finish) first, then to look
for the desired fiber, cost, color, texture or pattern. Think of each fabric application as a
sleuthing or detective experience. The necessary time and effort to uncover the best
possible selection will yield the right kind of success - longevity, durability, beauty and
owner/user satisfaction.
Note that many fabrics in the glossary list more than one weight. This variable is due to
differences in yarn weight, fabric density, or whether a pattern is printed or woven. It is
critical to judge each fabric in hand as to its individual weight. After reading the weight
chart which follows and then examining individual fabrics by hand, one can ask, “What
is the weight of this fabric?” Then compare that evaluation with chart1, which follows.
Fabrics Glossary
A B C D E F G H I J K L M N O P Q R S T U V W Z
A back to top
Acetate (F)
Synthetic fiber chemically made from compounded cellulose. It has a brilliant
shine and is often called poor man’s silk or artificial silk. It is often used as a
combination fiber for fabrics used for draperies, bed ensembles, lining and
upholstery fabrics.
Acrylic (F)
Synthetic fiber derived from natural gas, air, coal, petroleum, and limestone. It is
soft, warm, lightweight, and dyes easily. It is not as durable as nylon, polyester
and olefin. Often used in blends for draperies, upholstered fabrics, and in some
broadloom carpeting.
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Albert Cloth (HW)
Apparel outerwear double cloth of heavy wool. It is reversible with a pattern on
each side.
Alginate (F)
Alginate acid neutralized with caustic soda, spun or extruded. Combined with
other fibers then dissolved with an acid bath, the result is a nonflammable fiber
used for very sheer wool textiles and lace.
Alpaca (F)
Wool from the alpaca, a member of the camel family. It is lustrous, lightweight,
warm, and stronger than sheep wool.
Amazon Coth
Very soft, satin warp-faced wool textile in a satin weave. The warp is worsted and
the weft is heavier.
Angeline (HW)
Fulled, watertight woolen textile in a plain, coarse weave. The color is typically
black and has a long nap.
Antique Satin (LW)
Almost always a blend of rayon (on the fabric face) and acetate (on the fabric
reverse or back). It is a horizontal satin-weave fabric with surface flubs which
create the look of an old or antique silk shantung. Draperies and quilted
bedspreads and decorative ensembles or accessories. It water-stains and is not
an inherently strong fabric; treat with care.
Alpaca (F)
A soft, long fur from the Alpaca, a domesticated Mammal from South America. It
comes in various shades of brown and white. It is used for area rugs, wall
hangings, and blankets.
Angora Goat Mohair
Hair form the Angora goat, categorized with wool, very fine but very strong. Often
used in upscale nonresidential upholstery, particularly deep pile upholstery
velvet.
Angora Rabbit Hair
Very long, fine, and soft, used as a luxury accent fiber in throws and accessories.
It must be treated with care to avoid “shedding” and damage to the fabric.
Armure (MW)
Woven one or two color fabric with small repeating dobby patterns (less than
about 4 inch pattern repeat), typically in a geometric pattern. Background is a
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small horizontal rib. Multipurpose fabric used for draperies, slipcovers, upholstery
and accessory items.
Argyle (MW)
Knitted diamond-shaped pattern, famous for Scottish stockings and sweaters.
This patterns is sometimes woven for interior design textiles.
Art Linen (MW)
Base cloth for heavy embroidery made of linen or cotton with round, smooth
yarns.
Astrakan (HW)
Originally a heavy knitted or woven luxurious pile fabric which imitates the
Russian Astrakan lamp, the Persian lam or beaver pelt with surface loops or
curls - used as outerwear - coats and hats. In interiors today this fabric may be
made of a variety of yarns in a cut or uncut lofty, looped surface for luxurious
throws or accessory items.
Aubusson (HW)
Flat tapestry or hand-taffeta weave made with a cotton warp and cotton or wool
weft for wall tapestries and French Aubusson carpets or rugs. See also Rugs and
Carpeting chapter. Aubusson woven tapestries and rugs may be reversible, and
are fairly durable.
B back to top
Basket Weave
Variation of the plain weave where groups of yarns are carried as one. A
Balanced Basket Weave (LW, MW, HW) features equal groups, such as twoover-two-under or three-over-three-under each direction. An Unbalanced
Basket Weave carries unequal numbers of warp and weft yarns in groups.
Barathea (MW, HW)
Worsted wool fabric with a pebbly or heather or broken twill effect in the surface.
May also be made of fibers that imitate fine wool.
Bark Cloth (MW , HW)
1) South Sea Pacific Island and South eastern Asian technique for producing a
textile from the bark of the paper mulberry or breadfruit tree, for example.
Pounding a soaking slowly create a heavy paper-like textile that can be used as
clothing, floor mats or wall hangings/textile art. Often decorated with brown or
natural colors in abstract ethnic designs. 2) Any medium to heavyweight textile
with a bumpy, irregular, coarse bark-like textural surface texture.
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Basketweave (MW, HW)
Any textile with a balanced or unbalanced plain weave where there are groups of
yarns carried as one in each direction. A Balanced Basketweave has groups of
two warp yarns over two weft yarns, for example. An Unbalanced Basketweave
has more yarns in one direction, which may alternate with more yarns in the
other direction, for example two over three, then three over two in sequence.
Batik (LW, MW)
Fabric printed with the resist dye batik method of applying wax in a pattern, then
submerging the textile in a dyebath so the pattern is dyed where there is no wax.
The design is built up by removing the first layer of wax then reapplying wax in a
different area. Additional textural pattern may be accomplished by crushing the
waxed fabric so fissures of dye penetrate through the wax. The artistic effect is
stylized or abstract.with uneven coloring effects. Produced by hand most often in
the islands of the South Pacific, Indonesia, and in Africa. Imitation or Faux
Batik is produced with automated silk screening, although the uneven, handmade quality will be missing.
Batiste (SS)
Semi-sheer drapery or curtain fabric originated by Jean Batiste in France. It is a
balanced plain weave fabric with slight horizontal slubs. A cotton, polyester, or
blended fabric. The fabric may be bleached, dyed, printed, or embroidered, and
is considered a less formal fabric. Seeded Batiste features small horizontal nubs
as an additional texture. Striped Batiste has stripes in the lengthwise or warp
direction. Printed Batiste has a printed pattern applied to the surface. Novelty
Batiste includes occasional novelty yarns in the weft direction.
Bedford Cord (LW, MW)
Pique weave fabric with a raised lengthwise warp cord making a ribbed fabric.
Usually of cotton dyed solidly in a single color. Used for bedspreads and
multipurpose light-use applications.
Bengaline (MW)
Plain weave lustrous rib-faced fabric with filling yarns completely covered with
finer warp yarns. Multipurpose fabric.
Birdseye
(See pique)
Block Print (LW, MW)
Traditional English method of applying a colored design to fabric with engraved
blocks coated with dye, which are then stamped onto the fabric. Hand Block
Prints are applied with great skill and precision.
Boucle’ (SS, C, MW, HW)
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Novelty or complex yarn constructed with a core thread, with a slightly curled and
twisted yarn held to the core with a fine thread. Fabrics of boucle’ yarns have a
loopy-bumpy texture. As a semi-sheer, it is woven into boucle’ marquisette (SS),
and is also used as a novelty yarn in casement fabrics (C). A medium weight
application is a soft, woven blanket “throw” (MW). The upholstery weight textile
is known as boucle’ or poodle cloth (MW, HW).
Boucle’ Marquisette (SS)
Polyester or blended semi-sheer drapery fabric of very fine vertical yarns that are
hourglass-twisted at the plain weave intersections, resulting in a fine, net-like
texture. The weft threads are all or partly fine boucle’ yarns.
Broadcloth (LW, MW)
Term is used for a category of plain weave, lightweight cotton fabric similar to
unprinted calico. It has a slight irregularity in both the warp and weft yarns, and
may be plain or printed.(LW). Broadcloth is also a medium weight upholstery or
blanket fabric of smooth, fine worsted wool in a twill weave (MW). This term
resulted from the invention of the automated loom that could produce wide or
“broad” goods or cloth, to new widths of 48 to 60 inches wide.
Brocade (MW)
Three-element Jacquard weave fabric, one warp, one weft, and a supplemental
set of threads woven in to create an embroidered appearance, in one or more
colors. Brocade fabrics typically have a smooth satin background, and the fabric
is an important formal and elegant one in period style (see chapter 12). To
distinguish a brocade from a single damask, clip the floating threads on the
reverse, and the fabric will not unravel.
Broché
Brocade with long, floating thread on the reverse side. Traditionally used in
formal applications for upholstery, draperies, and wall textiles, bed ensembles,
and accessories.
Brocatelle (MW, HW)
Jacquard fabric similar to damask but with heavier yarns, sometimes employing
supplemental yarns in order to produce a raised design effect. The base weave
is often satin. Substantial or heavy multipurpose applications.
Buchram or Crinoline (MW)
Narrow fabric, three, four, or five inches wide used for interfacing to stiffen
drapery headings for pleats. It is a heavily sized gauze or cheesecloth fabric, or it
may be made of nonwoven stiffened scrim.
Burlap (MW)
Plain weave jute or hemp fabric known as gunny sack fabric and used in crafts or
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upholstery support. For many years it was a secondary carpet backing, but has
been replaced with man-made extruded fibers.
Burn-out or Etch Print (TS/SS, C)
Semi-sheer fabric usually of cotton-polyester blend where designs are printed
with an acid that eats or dissolves the cotton, leaving transparent designs or
patterns in the semi-sheer fabric. May also be printed with colored patterns or
white pigment. The overall effect is of a casement fabric due to the combined
effects of transparent sheer and semi-sheer.
Butcher Cloth or Butcher Linen (LW, MW)
Originally aprons for butchers, this neutral, plain weave fabric is made of linen,
cotton, or manufactured fibers finished to imitate tow linen.
C back to top
Calico (LW)
Plain weave broadcloth with a small printed floral or geometric patterns. Because
of its quaint, provincial designs, it is sometimes referred to as Country Calico.
Used for window treatments, bed ensembles, and accessory items such as
pillows and table covers.
Cambric (LW)
Cotton, linen or man-made fiber translucent cloth with a plain weave similar to
coarse broadcloth with enhanced slubs, but with a dull or stiff hand and a slightly
lustrous finish. Also known as Handkerchief Linen. Used for curtains, and
historically, embroidered.
Candlewick (LW)
Chain-stitch design hand-embroidered with untreated or unwaxed wick as the
yarn on muslin fabric. Candlewick was done as an imitation of crewel embroidery
during the American Colonial years. Today candlewick is machine-made and
often of neutral-colored yarns on a neutral background.
Canvas (MW, HW)
Sturdy, closely woven, plain weave textile of cotton or linen, bleached or
unbleached, that can be dyed or printed. Used in fabric for casual furniture and
awnings. Outdoor applications are treated with a water repellent and fade
resistant finishes which can give the fabric a stiff hand.
Casement (Cloth) (C)
Open or semi-open woven or needle-constructed drapery fabric. The weave may
be loose or tight, often using novelty yarns and variations of woven designs in
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contemporary colors. Provides daytime privacy and screens out glare while
admitting natural daylight. Used extensively in nonresidential office interiors.
Cashmere, Kashmir (F)
Wool from cashmere or Kashmir goat of India, this fine, soft wool is woven into
luxury throws, pillows and accessories.
Challis (LW) (Shal-ē)
Soft, limp plain weave fabric, originally made of wool and silk for nun’s veiling,
now often made of high quality wool or a blend including rayon. May be printed
with a delicate floral pattern. Suitable for applications where limpness rather than
body is desirable, such as soft-hung stationary drapery side panels.
Chambray (LW) P
Plain weave fabric originating in Cambrai, France with a colored warp and white
weft. Used extensively for men’s work shirts, and occasionally for interior
applications.
Chameleon or Shot Cloth (LW)
Fabric with different colors in the warp and weft so that it is irridescent appearing to change colors with a shift in position or lighting. When made of silk
or luminous fibers such as polyester or rayon, the effect is visually luxurious.
Plain, satin, dobby or jacquard weave.
Charmeuse (LW)
Satin weave of spun warp and crepe weft yarns producing a lustrous face and a
matte back in solid colors and prints. Cotton, rayon or blends.
Charvet (LW)
Soft and lustrous fabric of silk or imitation silk with a warp-face, twill herringbone
weave.
Check (LW, MW)
Woven balanced plaid which creates squares of equal size through contrasting
yarn colors. May be two or more colors. See also Gingham.
Cheesecloth (SS)
Type of Gauze made of unsized or lightly sized (starched) cotton yarns. It is a
loosely woven, low thread count plain weave. When bleached and starched it is
called Scrim. Heavy sizing for extra stiffness results in Buchram, which is used
for pleated drapery headings.
Chenille (C, MW, HW)
Complex yarn, typically of cotton, woven as a broadloom textile and cut into
narrow strips and abraded or fluffed into the appearance of a pipe cleaner or
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fuzzy caterpillar. Chenille yarns appear as novelty yarns in casement fabrics (C),
in medium weight tufted chenille bedspreads (MW), in plain weave throws or
blankets (MW/HW), and in thick upholstery velour textiles.
Chevoit (MW, HW)
1)Cotton or blend twill fabric, usually with stripes, traditionally used for sturdy
shirting (MW). 2) Heavy tweed in plain or twill weave with a nubby, roughly
napped surface made originally of Scottish cheviot wool, now in a variety of woollike blends.
Chevron or Herringbone (MW, HW)
Zigzag pattern in a reverse or novelty-twill weave fabric usually or medium weight
for multipurpose applications (MW) or heavyweight upholstery (HW).
Chiffon(TS, MW, HW)
Term that means “soft finish.” A Chiffon Sheer is a tightly woven transparent
sheer with a crisp/soft feel or hand (TS). Chiffon Velvet is a medium to
heavyweight upholstery textiles with a soft hand (MW/HW).
China Silk (LW)
Plain weave silk or imitation silk textile with slight irregularities in the plain weave
and a shimmery quality of silk.
Chincilla Cloth (HW)
Double or triple-woven wool or wool-like twill fabric that imitates fur, named for
Chincilla Spain. The fabric is soft, thick, and somewhat spongy. Throws and
accessory items.
Chine’ (LW, MW)
Fine silk or silk-like textile where the warp yarns are printed in a shadow or
imprecise print then woven. Varies from IKAT in that chine’ designs are often
floral and traditional and the warp yarns are not shifted. This results in a soft and
subtle effect, which may also be achieved through calendaring.
Chinoise or Chinoiserie (LW, MW, HW)
French term indicating Chinese designs printed onto cotton percale (LW),
cretonne or toile (MW) or woven into upholstery weight fabrics (MW/HW). Most
popular historically during the Rococo period in France and during the Late
Georgian period in the United States.
Chintz or Glazed Chintz (LW)
Tightly woven (high thread count) plain-weave broadcloth of cotton or
cotton/polyester treated with a calendared resin or starched finish, solid piecedyed or printed in traditional floral or contemporary designs. Used for draperies,
bed ensembles, slipcovers, low-use upholstery, and accessory items. The resin
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finish can permanently wrinkle, and can wash out, so special attention should be
given to application placement and maintenance (dry clean only).
Ciré (LW)
Lustrous calendared finish given to silk or silk-like fabrics. Also known as a
French Wax finish, today a resin applied to the surface then pressed in with
heated rollers. A higher gloss than chintz.
Compound Cloth (HW)
1) Double weave, reversible fabric with contrasting or opposite colors, which
reverses the design on each side. Bedspreads and throws are use examples.
2)Two or more layers of fabric joined through fusing or laminating, such as a vinyl
upholstery with an extruded face and knit or nonwoven backing. 3) A layered
fabric created by stitching or fusing together finished fabrics, for use as quilts or
wall hangings, for example.
Compound Twill or Novelty Twill (MW, HW)
Term applied to any fabric where the twill weave changes direction to produce
two or more kinds of twill weave, each distinctly recognizable.
Corded Fabric (MW, HW)
Generic term for any textile with a raised rib, a crammed rib (several threads
carried as one) or larger yarns that produce a rib. Examples include Bedford
Cord (MW), Corduroy, Ottoman and Repp (HW) (see individual definitions).
Corduroy (HW)
Cotton pile fabric cut into ribs that may be small wale (also called pinwale) or
wide wales. Used for clothing and low-abrasion multipurpose interiors
applications.
Cotton (F)
Natural fiber from the white fluffy fruit of the cotton plant, a member of the mallow
family. Cotton is graded by length, brightness, color, and purity. Cotton dyes
well, is strong and soft to the touch, and cleans well because it absorbs water
easily. Untreated, it wrinkles and shrinks. Cotton is versatile, used for more
application than any other natural or man-made fiber.
Crepe (TS, LW, MW)
Fabric using very tightly twisted yarns then woven in a plain weave. The result is
a finely textured fabric with a slightly crinkled or pebbly effect. There are several
types of crepe.
Crepe Chiffon
Soft, transparent sheer drapery fabric woven of very fine crepe yarns (TS).
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Crepe Georgette
Marquisette transparent sheer with a crisper hand (TS).
Crepon
Heavy crepe warp textile in a variety of fibers (HW).
Serpentine Crepe
Plain weave textile using crepe yarns in the weft or filling; texture varies
depending on the size of the crepe yarns used. Multipurpose. (LW, MW)
Upholstery Crepe
Sturdy medium weight fabric that is usually solid color and often of wool or nylon
yarns.
Cretonne (MW)
Unglazed plain-weave cotton material that is coarser and heavier than chintz. It
is often printed with geometric and floral designs that are similar to chintz but
usually more rustic. A multi-use fabric, it is sometimes referred to as Cotton
Print or Country Furnishing Cloth (MW).
Crushed Velvet (MW)
Upholstery textile given a permanent crushed texture through calendaring: the
fabric is placed between rollers with applications of heat, moisture and pressure
to crush the pile multi-directionally.
Crewel Embroidery (MW)
Hand machine-embroidered with woolen (coarse) or worsted (refined) yarn in a
crewel or chain-stitch on a plain or basketweave cotton, linen or wool background
fabric. Crewel embroidery represents the Tree of Life, where each flower and leaf
is different, symbolizing life-sustaining flora and fauna found near the desert
oasis. It was particularly popular in the eighteenth century when English garden
foliage designs were used for upholstery, draperies, and bedding, especially in
conjunction with Queen Anne furniture.
Crypton (MW, HW)
Patented process engineered into fabric and encapsulating every fiber which
preventing moisture, stains, spills and bacteria from entering into the fiber.
Foreign substances and most stains can be wiped away. Upholstery, wall
coverings.
D back to top
Damask (MW)
Lustrous, reversible, durable fabric woven on a Jacquard loom, in a figured
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weave and made historically of cotton, with some applications in linen, silk and
wool. Today it may also occasionally be woven of synthetic fibers. Used for
upholstery, draperies, bed ensembles and accessories. A Single Damask is a
lower grade, less durable fabric where some yarns on the reverse side float
similar to brocade.
Denim (MW)
Staple cotton twill weave fabric that is rugged and serviceable for clothing and for
casual interiors applications, including upholstery, bedspreads, draperies, walls,
and accessories. The classic indigo blue denim is also called Jeans Fabric and
white denim is known as Drill.
Dimity (SS)
Semi-sheer pique weave fabric with raised cords, stripes or geometric patterns in
the warp lengthwise direction. It is usually made of cotton and is often one color.
Polyester may also imitate this look. Used in draperies, curtains or bed
ensembles, or accessories where semi-sheer fabric is preferred.
Dobby (MW)
Small woven geometric designs, less than four inches in pattern repeat, woven
into a plain weave cotton or blend fabric. Often the dobby pattern is a contrasting
color. Very small dobby patterns in the same color are termed Armure.
Multipurpose fabric.
Dotted Swiss (SS) A fine, sheer crisp curtain fabric in a plain or leno weave with tiny,
all-over flocked or woven dots spaced in a series. The dots create the semisheer effect. Without dots, the fabric is Swiss, and is a transparent sheer with a
very crisp hand.
Double Knit (MW)
Jersey fabric knitted on a machine equipped with two sets of needles that
interlock two sides of the fabric to produce a double thickness with more stability
than a single knit. Used occasionally for contemporary upholstery when spandex
yarns are incorporated to tightly form fit the piece. Also novelty applications.
Used infrequently in interiors applications
Doupion or Doupioni (LW, MW)
Silk textile made from yarns that are from double cocoons, called dupions. Both
cocoons are reeled at one, creating a strong, slubbed, irregular texture.
Drill (MW)
Sturdy denim cotton, white or cream colored, in a twill weave. Used as a finished
fabric or base cloth to be printed for casual upholstery and multipurpose
applications. Should be treated for stain-resistance for frequent use.
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Duck or Sailcloth (MW, HW)
Strong, durable cotton cloth, similar to lightweight canvas, in a fine, closely
woven, unbalanced oxford weave. May be plain or printed. For informal
multipurpose applications.
Duvetyn (HW)
Heavier version of suede cloth, originally or wool and now of a variety of fibers,
this sturdy twill weave is surface napped with emery rollers, then sheared for
consistency. The surface is soft and velvety, taken from the French duvet or
(goose) down.
E back to top
Embossed Fabric (LW, HW) Pattern in relief; a raised effect accomplished by passing
the fabric between engraved rollers. Used for a decorative, surface effect on
fabrics ranging from chintz (LW) to vinyl (imitation leather) and velvets (HW).
Embossed vinyl appears as tooled leather or animal/reptile skins. Embossed
velvets have a panne’ background effect.
Embroidery (TS, SS, LW, MW, HW)
Ornamental needlework designs sewn onto the surface of a fabric.
Schiffli Ninon Machine-embroidered sheer polyester drapery fabric (TS).
Tambour Curtains
Historic folk curtains in a hand-embroidered semi sheer fabric such as batiste
(SS).
Eyelet
Feminine curtain and bedding fabric (see eyelet LW).
Lappet Embroidery
18th century machine embroidery in dobby-like patterns, typically applied to
lightweight fabrics such as broadcloth or muslin (LW).
Candlewick
Machine embroidery process, based on original hand-embroidery (see
candlewick) (LW) .
Crewel Embroidery
Achain stitch pattern on a medium weight fabric (see crewel MW). Embroidery
may be used on bed, bath, and table linens through hand or machine
techniques.(LW, MW). Upholstery fabrics such as chenille velour, may be
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embroidered. (HW).
Applique Embroidery
Bed quilts, wall tapestries, and accessory items may incorporate decorative hand
or machine embroidery to secure small pieces of fabric in a pattern as applique.
(HW).
Eolienné (SS)
L:ight and delicate plain weave fabric with a low thread count - a type of gauze.
Named for Eolus, Greek god of the winds.
E’Pinglé
(MW)A textile in a variety of fibers with large and small alternating ribs, often with
contrasting colors. From the French verb to pin.
Eyelet (LW)
Embroidered muslin sheeting with a etch-printed or burned-out holes as a part of
the embroidery design. Available in white or pastels with same color or multicolored embroidery thread. Used for curtains and valances, bed ensembles,
pillows and accessories. Eyelet is available in narrow widths for use as ruffles
and trimmings. A delicate, feminine fabric.
Extruded Fabric (LW, HW)
Generic term for any man-made or synthetic fabric that is flowed in a sheet or
film from the viscose state. Thin extruded fabrics can be cut into narrow flat
ribbons called tape yarns or split-film or slit film yarns and inserted during the
weaving process as novelty yarn (LW). Extrusion onto a jersey knit or fibrous
non-woven backing is common, as seen in vinyl upholstery or imitation leather
(HW).
F back to top
Faille (LW)
Lustrous lightweight plain weave fabric with a fine weft rib. Made of rayon,
acetate, silk or blends, it is used for draperies, linings and accessory items such
as bed skirts and tablecloths.
Tissue faille
Single color, smooth and lustrous, lower thread count faille in silk or a silk-like
fabric. It has a diaphanous quality and deep luster.
Felt (MW, HW)
Cloth originally made of wool staple, sometimes mixed with fur or hair of other
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animals and cotton fibers compressed with heat, moisture and agitation.
Craft felt (MW)
Nonwoven fabric suitable for wall coverings and craft project and to protect fine
wood furniture from the bottoms of decorative accessories.
Upholstery felt
Generally a woven wool cloth with a heavy abraded nap. It is preshrunk and very
sturdy as the weave becomes tighter through the shrinking process.
Fiberglass (F)
Fine, translucent fiber made from spun glass. As a decorative fabric fiber, it is
largely off the market, as the fibers were inhaled during fabrication and caused
serious lung damage. It’s advantage was that it melted rather than burned and
did not contribute to flame spread. Today it’s use is confined to fiber batt
insulation and pre-formed tub and shower surrounds.
Flamestitch (HW)
Flame-like, irregular chevron or zig-zag design. Originated during the Elizabethan
Era as a hand-executed embroidery for upholstery and heavy drapery. The
flamestitch design may be a Jacquard weave in an irregular twill weave, or it may
also be cut and uncut loops of pile fabric termed moquette. Flamestitch may also
be a tapestry weave (all HW), or even a medium weight print textile (Imitation
Flamestitch) (MW)
Flannel (MW)
Woolen or worsted fabric woven in a plain or twill weave and napped or brushed
up on both sides and used for blankets. It can also be made of polyester or
cotton or blends.
Upholstery flannel
Version of flannel where one side is napped and the other side without a nap.
The napped side is used as the decorative face fabric. Used for furniture and wall
upholstery and accessory items.
Outing flannel
Heavy apparel fabric, twill or plain weave in dark colors and large scale plaids or
checks with a brushed nap. When made of wool, it is suitable in interiors for
upholstery, window treatments or accessory items such as pillows. (MW)
Flannelette (LW)
Soft, plain weave cotton fabric, lightly napped on one side. This Fleece (HW) is
an imitation knit or woven pile fabric in animal skin print design is typically used
for throws or blankets, pillows or other small accessory items. Originally fake fur
was made of modacrylic which was flame resistant. Polyester fleece has now
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taken over the role of fiber of choice as a flame retardant textile that also
machine launders well.
Polar Fleece is a fuzzy/furry non-fraying blanket material, highly brush-napped on
both sides in plain color and/or printed designs.
Fake Fur
Pile fleece where the depth of the pile attempts to match a real animal skin. Used
for throws, pillows, and light-use upholstery.
Fringe
Narrow braid and small tassels, loops, or cut or uncut decorative brush-like
threads, used in trimming upholstered furniture, window treatments, bed
ensembles, tablecloths and accessories. See also passementerie.
Frieze, Friezette (HW)
Very strong upholstery fabric with a woven pile of rounded uncut loops of nylon
or wool yarns. Usually in solid colors; loops are arranged in a plain rows or in a
pattern.
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Gabardine (MW)
Steep diagonal lined twill tightly woven of wool or synthetic yarns with more warp
than filling threads. The surface is clean with a hard polished finish. A
multipurpose fabric.
Gauze (TS, SS)
Very fine hourglass twisted and interlaced threads in a leno or doup weave,
including marquisette and scrim. used for soft window treatments, mosquito
netting, bed draperies and other soft sculptural application.
Georgette (TS)
Also known as Crepe Georgette, a sheer, lightweight, plain weave fabric with
fine crepe yearns, less lustrous and with a more crisp hand than chiffon.
Gingham (LW-MW)
Plain weave cotton fabric that is closely woven and usually yarn dyed and woven
with stripes, checks, or plaids. The most familiar gingham is the lightweight white
plus one color check.
Granada (MW)
Fine worsted wool fabric with a cotton warp woven in a broken twill that creates a
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grainy surface quality. From the Latin granum, meaning granular.
Granite Cloth (MW)
Wool or wool-like fabric with tightly twisted, perhaps crepe yarns woven on a
dobby loom to produce a patterned, pebble-like surface. One color or multiple
colors, the effect is a granite stone-like visual effect in a hard finish. Mutipurpose
fabric.
Grenadine (SS)
Lightweight leno fabric in plain or woven with stripes, checks or patterns. The
finish is somewhat stiff and crisp.
Grosgrain (P)
See Passementerie.
Gros Point (HW)
Non-directional pile upholstery fabric with warp loops large than frieze. Durable
and resilient. Made of wool or nylon.
Grass Cloth (MW)
Wall covering fabric made of oriental grasses woven with fine cotton threads or
yarns, then glued to rice or mulberry paper. Grass cloth roll goods are typically
36 inches wide. Must be protected against abrasion and soiling.
Guimpe or Gimp (P)
Narrow, flat braid or spiral-wrapped silk or metallic yarn around the base that is
held in place by tie or binder. Used to cover upholstery tacks and as an
ornamental trim for draperies.
H back to top
Handkerchief Linen (LW)
Also known as cambric, a closely-woven linen, cotton or man-made fiber which
imitates linen. It has a natural unevenness in the threads, and is similar in luster
and thread count to batiste but with heavier yarns.
Herringbone (MW, HW)
Even or regular zigzag twill weave pattern, named afte the spinal structure of the
herring fish. Also called chevron. Upholstery and wall textile of wool or blends.
Homespun (LW, HW)
Coarse, plain-weave textile with unevenly spun wool, linen or cotton or manmade imitation of natural yarns that appear hand-spun. Color is natural and
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undyed. Applications in casual or provincial/country settings.
Hong Kong (LW, MW)
Silk or silk-like fabric with very fine warp threads and heavier filling threads,
creating a refined ribbed fabric. Plain colors; luxury applications.
Hopsaking (MW)
Fabric similar to but lighter weight than burlap, originally for storing hops prior to
the brewing process. It is a coarse, jute or cotton or blend fabric with a natural
hand.
Houndstooth (MW, HW)
Yarn dyed (usually worsted wool) fabric in a medium broken-check effect, with a
unique four-pointed twill weave. The color is completely surrounded by neutralcolored yarn and the check is a four-pointed star. The projection looks like canine
tooth, hence its name. Upholstery or accessories.
Huckaback (MW)
Originally used for toweling linens with small, raised geometric figures in cotton,
linen, blend or synthetics that are very absorbent. Generally a solid color or with
fine stripes or dobby patterns. May also be used for draperies and accessories.
The name is derived from the German hukkabak, or peddlar’s wares, including
toweling. In England, peddlers were called hucksters.
I back to top
Imberline (MW)
Strié stripe which runs the warp length of the goods by a variety of colors in the
warp, which appears though the overall design of the fabric. Adapted from fabric
of Swiss guard uniforms who served at the Vatican in Rome.
Ikat (LW, MW)
Also known as warp print. A technique developed in the Islands of the South
Pacific where warp yarns are dyed in a pattern, then as they are threaded on the
loom, they are shifted so the dyed areas are jagged or abstract, then woven. The
result is a silk or cotton fabric with unusual, indistinct, almost impressionistic
designs within bands of warp direction stripes. For medium weight applications, a
backging fabric may be laminated or adhered to the ikat as a support textile.
India Print (LW)
Small floral, ethnic or gemoteric designs printed on broadcloth or muslin from
India. Historically a very finely woven cotton.
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Intarsia (HW)
Reversible, heavy knit material with geometric designs on a solid-colored
background that comes in a variety of knit stitches. Multipurpose applications.
Interfacing (LW, MW)
A stiff, woven or nonwoven synthetic fabric used between the decorative fabric
and lining to reinforce or give strength of body. Used in the pelmet (flat shaped
top treatments) or other applications where stiffness is desired.
Interlining (HW)
A batting applied between the decorative fabric and lining fabric for body and for
sound and temperature insulation. Made of polyester, cotton, or wool fibers.
Typically for drapery applications.
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Jacquard (MW-HW)
Large or intricately patterned textiles woven on the Jacquard loom.
Brocade, Brocatelle, Damask and Lampas
Medium weight Jacquards which are multipurpose fabrics (MW).
Flamestitch, Frieze, Matelasse’, Needlepoint, Tapestry, and Figured Velvets
Heavy weight Jacquards used primarily for upholstery and accessory items
(HW).
K back to top
Khaki (LW-MW)
A strong cotton or blend twill fabric colored in yellow-brown, dusty or greenish or
beige earth tones. The name comes from India meaning earthy color and hence
then name of the army fatigues of the British occupation during the 19th century.
A multipurpose fabric, plain or twill weave.
Knit Fabric (LW)
Made on a flat, warp or circular knitting machine, a flat tubular fabric without
seams.
Rib Knit
Made with two sets of needles to give a ribbed surface to the material.
Jersey Knit
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A flat, chainstitch substrate fabric used extensively as a laminated support
backing for vinyl imitation leather and for lightweight fabrics such as silk taffeta to
give strength and body for more multipurpose applications.
Jersey Tricot, or Milanese (Silk Jersey)
A soft, thin fabric for applications where limp, lightweight draping qualities are
desired.
Jersey Flannel
Plain weave or knit jersey napped on one side and made of wool.
L back to top
Lace (SS, C)
Open, floral or geometric patterned fabric usually on a net background. Lace is
handmade or needle-constructed of natural or synthetic yarns. The majority of
machine-made laces are polyester.
Bobbin Lace
Hand technique of interlacing threads where bobbins hold the threads tight
during the complex interweaving process. A pattern on paper is affixed to a pillow
and pins are pushed into the paper to act as a guide for the thread. Famous
names of bobbin lace include Antwerp, Binche, Branbant, Bruges, Chantilly,
Cluny, duchess, Genoese, Honiton, Maltese, Milanese, Mechlin, point
d’Angelterre, and Valenciennes.
Hand Crocheted Lace (LW)
Lace crocheted by hand typically using fine to medium cotton thread. Historically
used as “doilies” atop furniture to protect fine wood from scratching by objects of
art placed there. Also used as pillow fronts, tablecloths or accent items. Hand
crocheted lace is rarely used as a window treatment fabric.
Needlepoint Lace
A hand button hole stitch technique worked with a needle similar to embroidery
that dates from the Renaissance in Europe. Types include Alencon, argentan,
coralline, gros point, point de Colbert, point de Gaz, point de neige, point plat,
and rose point.
Nottingham Lace
A generic term for automated machine needle-constructed lace, typically of
cotton or, more often, polyester, on a net background.
Tatted Lace
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Developed as a knotting technique in the mid-nineteenth century, using a small
shuttle with a continuous thread to form stitches, which are knots tied in circles
along a foundation thread. Tatting consists of loops of thread between the knots.
Lame’ (MW)
Any woven fabric that is composed or highlighted with metallic-colored yarns.
Originally the yarns would have been authentically gold or silver. Today they are
usually made of polymer base man-made yarn. Window treatments and
accessories.
Lampas (MW)
A multicolored fabric with raised satin-weave Jacquard designs on a finely ribbed
taffeta background. Made of silk rayon, cotton, or blends. A formal, somewhat
delicate multipurpose fabric.
Lawn (TS, SS)
A sheer or semi-sheer lightweight fabric in plain weave cotton or linen, or rayon
that is treated to be crisp. It has a lustrous, crisp, crease-resistant finish.
Depending on the finish, it is also known as Batiste or Organdy.
Leather (F, HW)
A fabric mate from the hides and skins of cattle and swine. through the tanning
process. Used for upholstery, writing desk inlay, accessories, and, infrequently
for flooring and wall treatments or window valances
Leno (C, LW)
Casement or lightweight fabric with a leno or doup plain weave variation, where
pairs of warp yarns are hourglass-twisted and interlaced wtih the weft yarns.
Used for draperies.
Linen (F)
The oldest and best known fiber of the bast family. Linen comes from the innter
fiber of the flax plant stalk. Linen feels and looks crisp. Most often it is used in
table coverings, draperies, lampshades, wall coverings, toweling, and upholstery.
Lining (LW, MW)
A fabric that is sewn onto the back of window treatment fabrics, bed ensembles,
or accessory items. Lining is made of white, off white or colored cotton, polyester,
rayon or acetate fibers in a plain or sateen weave. Special finishes and a variety
from lightweight to room darkening and insulative give options to its applications.
M back to top
Macrame’ (MW)
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An open lacy yet coarse textile made by tying knots of various yarns by hand.
Wall hangings, plant holders dating to the mid -twentieth century.
Malimo (C)
Needle-constructed textile where groups of weft yarns are laid across warp yarns
in a straight or patterned design, then interlocked with a clear monofilament
knitted chain stitch. For large geometric designs the Jacquard attachment may
be used. May also be lined with a fused backing for stability, privacy, and energy
insulation. Draperies.
Matelasse (MW, HW)
Also known as pocket weave or true double cloth this fabric is woven on a
Jacquard loom, with two warps and two wefts and a supplemental set of threads
interlocking the two layers where the pattern is outlined. This creates a puffy,
almost quilted appearance. Fine fabrics are suitable for draperies and accessory
items whereas heavy matelasse’ is an upholstery textile.
Marquisette or Grenadine (TS)
Made from very fine sheer silk, cotton, or synthetic yarns in an open-mesh or
leno weave construction, with ply or single yarns. Dots and figures are
sometimes woven or flocked into the fabric. Draperies and curtains. When weft
threads are boucle yarns, the fabric becomes a Boucle’ Marquisette (SS).
Mesh (SS, C)
A net like fabric with a coarse open weave or knitted construction that is heavier
and less transparent than net. Draped applications.
Milanese (LW)
A knit material similar to tricot that has fine diagonal ribs. Used for soft, limp
draped applications.
Milium (MW)
The trade name for a triple-layered lining fabric that is energy efficient, with two
outside layers enclosing an inner layer of aluminized material that reflects heat
(to keep it in or keep it out). Used for drapery lining and/or interlining.
Mohair (LW, MW, HW)
The wool like hair fiber from the fleece of the Angora goat; luxurious, soft yet
extremely durable. Any fabric woven from Angora goat mohair may be called
mohair. Multipurpose fabric.
Mohair upholstery velvet
(HW) is a strong, deep plush upholstery velvet with a highly resilient texture. This
sturdy, durable fabric is used in nonresidential seating such as upscale theaters.
Unpatterned; plain colors.
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Moire’ (MW)
A faille-based ribbed fabric that is calendared or embossed with the classic
watermark pattern. A shiny fabric which may be solidly dyed or printed. Often of
acetate and cotton; may also be of polyester and treated to be flame retardant for
nonresidential applications. Multipurpose.
Muslin (LW) 1. . Muslin is also a general name for plain woven fine white cottons for
domestic use that are carded but not combed, resulting in a mixture of long and
short fibers in the yarns that leads to a somewhat fuzzy yarn. It is believed that
muslins were first made at Mosul (now a city of Iraq). They were widely made in
India, from where they were first imported to England in the late 17th century and
form the basis for many fabrics of which sheeting is one. Muslin may consist of
either cotton or cotton/polyester plain-weave fabric that is either bleached or
unbleached in plain colors or printed. A coarser yarn and feel than broadcloth or
of percale. The base cloth for lower grade calico. 2. The carded and lower thread
count grade of bed linen is called muslin sheeting.
Mylar (LW)
A trade name for extruded film that is used as a base for reflective wall
coverings. It may be cut into tape, slit or split film yarns and woven into textiles
for novelty effects.
N back to top
Nainsook (LW)
Mercerized cotton in a very fine plain weave that is lustrous and at times
calendared to a high-gloss finish. Originally from India, is taken from the Hindu
words nain (eye) and sukh (delight). There is a wide variety of finishes and
quality levels and may also have checks, stripes or cords.
Needlepoint (HW)
Hand-stitched wool yarns on canvas for upholstery fabrics and carpeting. It is
sometimes called Frieze if it is a patternless needlepoint (this differs from
machine-made frieze). Large stitches are called Grospoint and tiny stitches are
called Petit Point.
Net (SS, C)
Open-weave needle constructed fabric made by looping and knotting a
continuous strand of thread into an open uniform or loose mesh pattern by
machine, or, historically, by hand as a base for lace.
Tulle (SS)
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Very small mesh in a fine netting. Traditionally brides’ veiling, it is used as
accessory bunting in floral arrangements or for special event decorating, and as
a gathered lining to add fullness to items such as bed skirts.
Maline
A soft mesh with hexagonal construction.
Mosquito Netting
Gauze netting used to drape over beds in tropical climates to keep out
mosquitos. Also used decoratively as it is very limp.
Ninon (TS)
A very sheer, gossamer-like drapery fabric made by grouping very fine tightlywoven warp threads in pairs with a crisp (not stiff) smooth finish. Polyester. Also
called French Voile, Triple Voile, or French Tergal.
Novelty or Derivation Weave (LW, MW, HW)
Any textile where more than one weave is employed, using a combination of two
or more of the plain, twill, and satin weave. A common, not technical term is
“fancies.”
Nun’s Veiling (LW)
Soft yet firm, thin, fine, plain-weave wool textile. Draped application and
accessories.
Nylon (F)
A strong synthetic fiber made from petroleum, natural gas (carbon), air (nitrogen
and oxygen) and water. In1939, Dupont introduced nylon and it became known
as the miracle fiber. It is a durable, washable and is used for the majority of tufted
carpeting, for sturdy upholstery, commercial wall coverings.
O back to top
Oatmeal Cloth (MW, HW)
Woven linen or linen-like fabric with a crinkled or pebbled surface that is similar
to the look of oatmeal paper - neutral in color and uneven in texture. It is strong
and durable. May be multipurpose or upholstery weight.
Oilcloth(HW)
Sheeting that is treated with linseed oil varnish to give a patent leather look
and/or for waterproofing. It may be given a satiny sheen and finish when used for
table covers of shelf coverings. Originally the fabric for roller shades; now largely
25
a historic fabric, as vinyl products have mostly replaced oilcloth.
Olefin (F)
A synthetic petroleum-based fiber that is durable, resilient, economical and
cleans well. Also known as Polypropylene, olefin is primarily used for
broadloom carpeting and carpet tile, for artificial turf and for upholstery.
Ombré (MW)
French for “shadow.” Closely color warp yarns that produce a subtle shaded or
striped effect. Also known as Strie’ and Jaspe’. Multipurpose.
Ondulé (MW)
French for undulating, this fabric is a plain weave with a wavy effect in the warp
yarns through the insertion of a special reed.
Organdy (TS)
Very thin, sheer muslin or plain-weave cotton fabric, with a crisp, almost wiry
finish. Used for ruffled sheer curtains or other draped applications of accessories.
Originally a white fabric, now manufactured in a variety of colors.
Shadow Organdy
Printed in the same color as the fabric, producing a shadowy pattern or texture.
Organza, Organzine (MW)
Very high quality silk yarn of many strands of fine silk. Often used as the warp in
fine taffeta and damask.
Osnaburg or Osnaberg (MW)
Coarse and sturdy 100% cotton, plain weave handmade (or machine-loomed to
appear handmade) fabric that is undyed and characterized by tiny particles of
dark bolls or cotton waste material found in lower grade cotton. When given a
calendared or ironed finish it is known as Hopsaking or Crash. Crash may also
be made of linen. Colonial style casual applications, window treatments, slip
covers, accessories. First loomed in Osnabruck, Germany.
Ottoman (HW)
A plain weave upholstery textile with heavy weft ribs made of large, round filling
yarns (that may be of alternating sizes) and covered entirely with fine warp
thread, a little heavier and coarser than bengaline.
Oxford Cloth (LW, MW)
A variation of the plain weave where two sets of finer warp threads are interlaced
with one heavier weft thread. Well known in the apparel industry as a classic
men’s shirting material of cotton or cotton/polyester blend (LW). Medium weight
oxford cloth is used in interior design as Duck or Sailcloth which may be plain or
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printed. It is also used as the most common weave for Union Cloth.
P back to top
Paisley (LW, MW)
A motif featuring a curved leaf or teardrop shape in a complex pattern and with
lively or subdued color combinations, originating as a Indienne textile and
adopted by the town of Paisley, Scotland where it has been produced in fine
worsted wool as scarves and shawls. The fabric may also be woven of a wool
blend, cotton, or man-made fibers. The design may be woven in or printed.
Panne’ (MW, HW)
A calandaring process where a napped fabric is pressed down in one direction.
See also Velvet: Panne’ Velvet.
Passementerie (P)
The entire spectrum of manufactured trimmings, either hand-tied or machinemade, of silk, rayon, linen or cotton. Included are the following types:
Borders
Flat, narrow town textiles, 2-1/2 to 6 inches woven with complex Jacquard
designs similar to lampas or tapestry. Borders are used on window treatments,
upholstery and accessory items, and as wall trimmings.
Braids or Galloons
Flat, woven narrow textiles from 5/8 inch to 4 inches in width, which may be in a
dobby or Jacquard pattern. Edges may be straight, looped, scalloped or cut.
Flat braids or galloons
Woven in satin, tabby or twill weaves, sometimes with floral designs.
Raised openwork braids or galloons
Made of gimp plied yarns (smooth and tight) which form open half or full scrolls.
Braid is applied to window treatments, skirts of table covers and upholstery and
bed linens.
Cord and Rope
Cord consists of plied yarns twisted together ranging from 3/16 to 1 inch in
diameter. Rope is over one inch in diameter. Yarns may be plain plies, twisted
with few turns per inch, or gimped plies, wrapped very tightly around a core with
many turns per inch. May be one color or multiple colors, and used alone or in
combination with tassels or gimp.
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Barrier Rope
Used to keep foot traffic restricted, and may be finished with a metal cuff and
hook to be attached to upright heavy poles.
Cord Tiebacks
Single or double decorative cord in a continuous loop on each end to tie back
draperies (see also tassel tiebacks below).
Rail Rope or Stair Cord
Used in place of a handrail. These may also be combined with tassels (see
tassels below).
Fringe
A complex element consisting of a heading such as gimp, braid or galloon and an
attached skirt.
Base Fringe
Has a thick netted or woven yarn heading, almost like macrame’ usually with
tassels or cut yarns at the bottom.
Boulle or Bullion Fringe
Made of cords instead of yarns which are 2-1/2 to 12 inches long hard finish.
Longer lengths are typically used on Victorian style upholstery and table covers;
shorter lengths as top treatment or drapery fringe.
Ceramic Bead Fringe
Made with the addition of ornamental beads or drilled shaped pieces in place of
or in combination with tassels.
Cut Moss or Moss Edge Fringe
A narrow plain heading and a full, generous skirt of fine yarns cut or looped
yarns.
Fine Cut Fringe
Has flat skirt or thin yarns attached to a variety of headings from wide braids and
galloons.
Glass Bead Fringe
A heading with glass or composite beads attached to the yarn skirt. May be
simple or very complex, short or long. The effect is jewelry-like.
Loop Fringe
Has a flat skirt of very fine looped yarns.
Netted Tassel Fringe
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Features crisscrossed yarns between the heading and fringe.
Rat Tail Fringe
A type of openwork galloon with a heading and large half-round loops or scallops
in gimp yarns.
Tassel Fringe
A heading, a looped fringe to which tassels are attached. Tassels may be spaced
and sparse, lay in tight procession, or even be overlaid in various lengths, called
Multi-Tasseled Fringe.
Wood Mold Fringe
Utilizes small balls or ornamental wood pieces in place of fringe attached to a
heading.
Cotton Ball or Pom Fringe
A country, casual fringe in which tassels are replaced with round tufts or poms,
made entirely of cotton.
Bullion Fringe
Has cords in place of yarns attached to the heading. The cords are looped at the
bottom and twisted together.
Gimp, Guimpe
Flat, narrow woven textiles, 3/8 to ½ inch wide woven in many styles, plain or
with scalloped looped. Used as upholstery tack coverings, as trimmings on walls,
lampshades, pillows or other decorative areas.
Flat Gimp
Plain or woven with a scroll, diamond, ribbed or chevron pattern.
Raised Surface Gimp
Utilizes piled yarns wrapped around a core in ornate scroll designs.
Corded Gimp
Has a corn sewn either on the edge or the center.
Grosgrain
Uniformly ribbed, closely woven trimming ribbon in various narrow widths with a
right cross-wise rib and finished edge. Solid colors.
Ribbon
A narrow fabric that comes in different widths from 1/4 inch to 3 inches with
selvage edges commonly of rayon, silk or velvet, and used for trimmings.
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Rosettes, Bows, Tufts, Frogs
A category of single item decorative trimmings used as a single finishing touch.
Rosettes
Made of yarns or fabric to resemble a rose.
Bows
Made of passementerie such as braid or yarns to form a custom bow and may be
used in combination with other elements.
Tufts
Small (½ ro 1-1/2 inch) circles of yarns in loops or cut yarns used as detail
trimmings .
Frogs
Units of arranged cording in a decorative shape from 3/4 inch to 5 inches wide.
May be called frog rosettes. Historically used as looped clasps on Chinese
clothing. Today frogs may also incorporate tassels and become complex
elements.
Tassels and Tiebacks
A category of passementerie often used together. Tassels are individual
elements made of a head and skit of yarn or cords with an optional variety of
embellishments, which may include netting, tiny tassels, overlaid cords, frogs,
wood or glass beads, to name a few. Tassels may be attached to cords for
various purposes.
Cord Tiebacks
Single or double cords or ropes that are bound together in a “cuff” at the end with
a loop to attach to a hook on the wall as a drapery is tied back.
Chair Tassels or Chair Tie
A long cord with a tassel on each end that anchors the chair seat to the vertical
stile of the chair.
Chandelier Tassels
Are used as ornament around the suspending chain or pipe or at the bottom of
the chandelier.
Festoons
Are cords or thin ropes with tassels at each end, intended to swag or festoon at
the top of the draperies. They must be used as a valence or in conjunction with a
valence.
Key Tassels
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Short, very full tassels - 3 - 4-1/2 inches long traditionally attached to a key to a
furniture piece. May be used as decoration on window treatments or attached to
drawer knobs, for example.
Ladder Tiebacks
A variation of the cord tiebacks in which a series of loops gives a knotted effect
similar to ladder rugs.
Tassel Tiebacks
Substantial, sometimes very ornate tassels on a looped cord or rope used for
holding back drapery panels.
Lace and Apparel Trimmings
Edging window treatments with trimmings from the apparel fabric store has
become more common. Trimmings include pleated, plaited ribbon and edging,
and lace of many types, such as chantilly, Battenberg and eyelet. Buttons,
belting, appliqués and other trimming items are being creatively incorporated into
trimmings.
Ornamentation: Jewelry and Floral Accents
Jewelry for window treatments can be made up of many materials, from resin to
rolled steel to seashells to costume jewelry such as beads and broaches. These
can be used as or with tieback holders, hung as pendants at the end of jabot or
tabs, or stitched or glued to the face of the fabric. Magnets are used to secure
jewelry manufactured from drapery ornamentation, which means their placement
and effects can be changed as often as desired. Silk greenery and florals and
even dried flowers can form top treatments, be looped over drapery hardware,
and be used as or with tiebacks. Small objects of art from any source can be
cleverly used to accent window treatments. Advice: Don’t allow creativity to usurp
good judgment.
Fabric Trimmings
include custom fabricated ruffles, banding, and items such as rosettes. These
items can be somewhat complicated to calculate for yardage and pricing for the
labor to sew. As a general rule, add 1-2 yards for ruffles and banding, and ½ yard
for each rosette. Be certain to meet with the fabricator/seamstress on pricing as
well as yardage requirements for ruffles, banding, and rosettes. These items may
need a little practice to calculate. Remember that banding is added up in linear
inches, and that pricing usually must be converted to feet or yardage for
fabrication. Both ruffles and banding are strips of fabric cut from the yardage.
Banding is flat and top stitched or fused, and often cut on the bias because it will
lay flat better. Ruffles are gathered or shirred 2-3 times fullness. The amount of
yardage will depend on the number of strips needed and the cut width (finished
width plus turn-under hem allowances).
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Trimmings both passementerie and fabric trimmings can add a substantial
amount to the price of the draperies. They can also provide luxury and beauty to
the window treatment, giving it an exclusive, custom look. Don’t be afraid to
suggest trimmings to a client- it is often the difference that can set your designs
apart form the competition. However, do use good judgments in placement,
color coordination, and amount of trimmings used. Be sure it is appropriate for
the level of formality and the theme of the interior – compatible and
complementary.
Braid, cord, gimp and fringe are usually sewn or glued onto the drapery
treatment. Banding is either sewn on or fuse-bonded with a heat-sensitive
fabrication tape, and may be layered. Ruffles vary considerable in size and the
way they are applied. They can also be layered, and are often added to create
greater depth, luxury, or a country or feminine theme.
Peau de Peche (MW)
A silk or silk-like twill weave finished with a soft nap. French for skin of peach.
Pekin (MW, HW)
Evenly spaced stripes of the same width and separated by the same width. May
be a medium weight woven fabric or a heavy weight velvet striped fabric.
Pellon (LW, MW)
The trade name for interlining fabrics made by the Pellon Corporation. Woven
and nonwoven, iron-on and sewn-in varieties. Various weights for different enduses.
Percale (LW)
High quality sheeting made with fine, long staple combed yarns which reduces
the sliver by removing the short fibers thus reducing the volume by some 70
percent over a muslin fabric. Since only long fibers are left it is a smooth yarn
with fewer projecting fiber ends and thus feels silkier. Percale also has a higher
yarn count than muslin. Sheeting may be cotton/polyester fabric in white, solid
colored, or printed designs. Used for sheets, bed ensembles, window treatments
and accessories.
Percaline (LW)
Percale material that has been glazed or finished with a moire’ watermark by
calendaring under pressure, and heat treated for a smooth glossy surface.
Lightweight multipurpose fabric.
Petit Point (HW)
A small needlepoint stitch, accomplished by hand. Frieze fabrics with very small
stitches may also be referred to as petit point. Upholstery, accessory items.
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Pile Weave (HW)
Fabric with cut or uncut loops above the surface of the base cloth, inserted as a
supplemental element. Pile fabrics include Corduroy, Frieze, Mohair, Plush,
Terry Cloth, Velvet and Velour.
Pique (MW)
A plain weave fabric made in a variety of patterns on a dobby or jacquard loom
with carded or combed yarns (most have three or more sets), some with filling
cords. Heavy yarns are used in the raised warp of Dimity and Bedford Cord, in
the dobby patterns.
Bird’s-Eye
A small diamond shaped pattern with a tiny dot in the center (dot is optional).
Goose-Eye
A heavier gauge diamond patter with a smaller diamond in the center.
Honeycomb or Waffle-Cloth
Small to large diamonds or squares in three-dimensional in three-dimension
where both warp and weft threads float during the weaving process. All pique
fabrics are multipurpose use.
Plaid (LW, MW, HW)
Fabric woven or printed with crossbar patterns, in which horizontal and vertical
colored bands make squares and rectangles, that is used in upholstery,
draperies, table and wall coverings.
Plain Weave (SS, C, LW, MW, HW)
The most basic weave, one over, one under if balanced. Unbalanced plain
weaves includes basketweave, oxford, ribbed fabrics, dobby and leno fabrics.
Dozens of decorative fabrics are woven in every weight.
Plisse’ (LW, MW)
A puckered surface achieved by a chemical decorative finish. In most cases this
finish is not permanent if it is laundered and ironed.
Polished Cotton (LW)
A smooth-faced cotton fabric with a characteristic sheen made from highly
mercerized glossy yarns. The sheen is more mellow and less plastic in
appearance than chintz. Sheen ranges from dull to bright. Usually of satin
weave/sateen construction.
Polyester (F)
A synthetic that is made from petroleum, coal, air, and water. In the United States
in 1946, DuPont had the exclusive rights to produce polyester. There were
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twenty-three producers by 1977. It is used for window treatments, wall fabrics,
upholstery, carpets, bed ensembles, accessories. Most sheer drapery fabrics are
polyester.
Multipurpose Polyester Fabric (LW, MW)
A wide variety of texturized fabrics made of heat-set polyester with surface
interest varying from crushed or wrinkled effects to plisse to calendared imprinted
designs or effects Typically a single color.
Poplin (LW, MW)
A plain-weave fabric of cotton, synthetic, blends, or sometimes wool. Similar to
broadcloth but with heavier, raised, round weft cords and large filling threads
resulting in slight horizontal ribs. Often printed with decorative designs. Medium
weight poplin is a multipurpose fabric. Lightweight poplin is restricted to nonabrasion applications.
Q back to top
Quilted Fabric (HW)
A compound fabric made with a light or medium weight decorative fabric face
fabric, interlining batting, and lining fabric, either hand or machine stitched with a
design that shows on both the face and the back. Used for quilts, bedspreads,
comforters, quilted shams, pelmets and upholstery cushions, and kitchen linens
such as pot holders, place mats appliance covers
.
Applique Quilting
The quilting of pieces of fabric onto a base cloth to create a contrasting design in
shape, contrast or fabric pattern.
Automated Machine Quilting
Computer generated repetitive stitched designs performed with multiple needles
on a large automated machine.
Fuse Bond Quilting
A penetrating heat technique used on fibers that will melt in pin-point spots in a
pattern similar to automated quilting - a lattice or ogive pattern is most common.
Used for mattress pads and lower priced ready-made bedding ensembles.
Hand-Guided Machine Quilting A machine quilting technique that allows the
fabricator to create patterns or to outline quilt in a free-form way.
Hand Quilting
Tiny stitches in a pattern. The stitches are straight or ornamental. In hand34
quilting, many level of qualities exist, and finely executed quilts are prized
possessions.
Outline Quilting
Hand or machine quilting where the stitches follow the outline of a printed
decorative fabric.
Piece Work Quilting
Small shaped pieces of fabric sewn together to form a lively pattern. The joined
pieces may form a quilt top or be appliqued onto another piece and quilted.
Tied Quilting
The joining of layers of fabric with yarn in a variety of ties or stitches. It is faster to
accomplish, casual and less durable than needle-and-thread stitching.
Trapunto is a hand quilting technique where only the patterned quilted areas are
stuffed or padded, making it stand out in relief against the flatter surrounding
fabric. If machine accomplished, the term becomes Trapunta. It is used for
upholstery cushions and accessory items.
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Rachel, Raschel Knit (SS, C) A vertical knit process that produces casement drapery
fabrics in an open construction utilizing novelty yarns. It is a rapid, inexpensive,
and dimensionally stable needle-constructed technique.
Radium (LW, MW)
A silk or silk-like fabric with luster and a smooth hand woven in a plain weave
with tightly twisted warp yarns that appears to change colors as it moves in the
light.
Rajah (MW)
A fabric similar to shantung with slubbed yarns in a plain or twill weave and
heavier weft yarns. It is strong and compact. Finished in solid colors and printed.
Silk or silk-like fabrics.
Ramie (F)
Also known as China grass, this is a bast fiber and is categorized with linen. It is
strong, smooth and relatively durable.
Ratiné (C, MW)
A fabric with ratine’ novelty yarns, typically in a plain weave which produces a
pebble-like surface May be a casement cloth, and when solidly woven the
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surface resembles grains of rice, making it also known as Rice Cloth.
Rayon (F)
Man-made fiber that is produced form cellulose (wood chips or cotton linters) and
chemicals. Also known as viscose. It has a soft silk-like quality and is used in
draperies, fringes, bed ensembles, upholstery and accessory items.
Rep or Repp (HW)
A corded, sturdy plain weave fabric with small horizontal or vertical ribs, whose
weight and rib size is between poplin and ottoman, often of wool. Upholstery. It
is opaque, but transparent sheers may also be treated with this finish.
Roller Print (LW, MW)
Any fabric printed with the roller printing technique, where an inked engraved
metal cylinder rolls color onto fabric which move along a belt under the cylinder.
A separate cylinder is used for each color. Also known as Cylinder Printing or
Machine Printing. Multipurpose fabrics.
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Sateen, Satine (LW, MW)
A horizontal satin weave fabric with a smooth surface and lustrous yarns typically
of rayon or cotton (usually mercerized). It is used for lining, window treatments,
and accessories. See also Warp Sateen.
Satin (LW, MW)
Smooth weave fabric where the warp threads float over four to eight weft threads
and then are tied down under one to create a lustrous surface. Weight varies
according to its intended end use. It may be the background weave for brocade,
brocatelle, or damask. Silk, cotton rayon, or acetate yarns make this fabric
smooth and lustrous.
Crépe Backed Satin
Heavily woven, substantial lustrous satin.
Duchess Satin
Common term that refers to plain satin, originally a high quality, very lustrous
fabric.
Paillette Satin
Utilizes two colors of warp threads and more warp than weft. The result is an
irridescent, changeable color effect. Historically of silk, now in any imitation silk36
like fiber.
Panné Satin
Calendared finish which irons the surface of heavy satin in one direction, giving a
higher sheen to the fabric surface.
Peau de Cygne
Eight harness satin weave, silk or silk-like textile woven with crepe yarns. It has
good body, high luster and a slightly slubbed face.
Peau de Soie
Silk-like an eight harness satin weave which drapes well, has strong body and a
dull luster. French for skin of silk.
Satin Merveilleux
Shot or iridescent, color-changing silk that is soft and usually silk.
Satin Royal
Lustrous satin with a satin face on the front and back (double-faced).
Satinet
Cotton warp and wool weft fabric that has been fulled.
Saran (F)
Man-made fiber composed of at least 80 percent polymerized vinylidene
choloride. Because of its resistance to sunlight and outdoor exporue it is most
commonly used for outdoor carpeting and outdoor furniture webbing.
Schiffli (LW, MW, HW) A fabric machine applied schiffli embroidery. Schiffli originating
in Switzerland, meaning “boat,” associated wtih the boat-shaped shuttle used in
the frame. Schiffli embroidery is applied to drapery sheers (LW), multipurpose
fabrics (MW), and upholstery (HW).
Screen Print (LW, MW)
Any printed fabric accomplished with one of the silk-screened methods (see
chapter 4, Fabric Finishing)
Seersucker (LW)
Plain-weave fabric of cotton or cotton blends with permanent warp-direction
puckers achieved by weaving alternating tight and loose plain weaves, making
the puckers permanent. Multipurpose. From the Persian term shirushakar,
meaning blistered.
Serge (MW)
Sturdy twill weave with a right hand twill wale (lower left to upper right) that forms
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the basis for several fabrics. Given various finishes and made of many fibers.
Shantung (LW)
Plain weave, lustrous and fine silk fabric with occasional warp slubs. Also made
of rayon-acetate or polyester which imitates silk. Multipurpose lightweight fabric.
If silk, protect against sun fading and deterioration. Originated in the Shantung
province, China.
Sharksin (LW, MW)
Durable, fine fabric with a slight weft rib which produces a delicately pebbled
surface. It may also have warp and weft threads in two alternating colors.
Sheer (TS)
Generic term for very thin, transparent or translucent fabrics including chiffon,
batiste, net, ninon, organdy, tulle, and voile.
Printed Sheer
Polyester fabric printed, typically in silkscreen method.
Semi-sheer
A fabric with heavier or thicker yarns that produce a translucent rather than
transparent drapery fabric. These include Batiste, Boucle Marquisette and
Burnout and Textured Polyester Sheer.
Textured Polyester Sheer
A semi-sheer fabric accomplished by texturizing polyester yarns or adding
complex yarns into the weave.
Sheeting (LW)
A plain weave cotton fabric such as Percale or Muslin, with a varying thread
count used for bed linens and other decorative applications such as curtains and
casual draperies. Sheeting is the base cloth for fabrics such as Calico, Eyelet
and Gingham.
Shot Cloth
Any textile using multiple colors in the weave where light is reflected and color
changes in the textile are clearly seen. Also known as Chameleon Cloth.
Silk (F)
A natural protein fiber in a filament form reeled from the cocoon of wild or
cultivated silkworms, that makes a fine, strong, lustrous fabric that can be dyed
brilliant colors, can be creped, is wrinkle resistant, but deteriorates in sunlight.
The process of cultivated silk production is known as Sericulture.
Silk Screen Print(MW)
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A form of hand or machine stenciling where the dye or pigment is squeegeed
through a strong sheer fabric (originally silk) stretched tightly on a frame. A
separate screen is required for each color. Most is done by automated the
Rotary Silk Screen process where the fabric moves on a conveyor belt under
drums of screens that rotate over the piece goods.
Single Damask (LW)
A less expensive, low thread count damask of lower-quality that is lustrous and
formal in appearance. and used for draperies. Often the patterns carry floating
yarns across the back of the textile similar to the appearance of a brocade.
However, if the floating threads are cut, the fabric unravels since it is a twoelement weave (single warp and weft).
Sisal (F)
A natural cellulosic fiber from the leaves of the agave (Agave sisalana) plant,
originally found in south Mexico, but produced throughout the tropics today. It is
used for door and floor mats and wall coverings. Typically left in its neutral color
and woven into a round wire construction or cut pile. It is brittle and coarse and
cannot be spun into twisted yarn. It is valued for its natural appearance as a
textural background element.
Spandex (F)
An elastomeric fiber made of a long chain synthetic polymer which can stretch up
to five times its original length. Lightweight, resists deterioration. It is used as
upholstery for sculpturally formed furniture.
String Cloth (MW)
A fabric with slenderly twisted, vertical yarns glued in a repetitive sequence onto
a backing and used in wall coverings.
Strie’, Jaspe’ or Ombre’ (LW, MW)
Finely woven satin or sateen fabric with multicolored warp threads that produce a
finely shaded striped effect. Multipurpose fabric.
Stripe (SS,C, LW, MW, HW)
Vertical or warp direction stripes, printed or woven.
Roman Stripe
A wide, bold stripe, often contrasting in color and may be woven or printed onto a
multipurpose fabric.
Satin Stripe
Combination weave, usually upholstery weight textiles made of a satin weave
next to a plain, sometimes crammed weave in alternating order. These stripes
may be narrow or wide.
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Semi-sheer Stripe
A polyester or polyester/blend fabric where the stripe is accomplished with
additional warp and/or weft yarns to create translucent, heavier stripes next to
sheer striped sections.
Ticking (Stripe)
Narrow single colored stripes on a white or cream cotton background. Original
ticking was a twill weave and used as a mattress covering, or tick.
Suede Cloth (LW, MW)
Synthetic knit or woven fabric with a brushed nap that imitates real suede. A
trade name for polyester suede cloth is Ultrasuede. Multipurpose fabric.
Suede Flannel (MW, HW)
Soft, warm fabric of wool or wool blend fibers in a plain or twill weave, napped on
both sides, cut and pressed to produce a brushed surface. Upholstery or wall
coverings.
Surrah (LW)
Silk or silk-like fabric originating in Surat, India. Twill weave with a lustrous, soft
hand.
T back to top
Tabby Cloth (LW, MW)
Another name for a plain weave fabric, including broadcloth, muslin, percale,
sheeting, or any other common balanced plain weave fabric.
Taffeta (LW)
Fine, opaque fabric in a plain weave with slightly larger filling yarns. Taffeta is
crisp and smooth. It is made of silk, acetate and cotton, polyester or other blends.
It is often a woven plaid fabric with a more formal appearance. In formal settings
it is a multipurpose fabric, suitable for light upholstery, draperies, wall treatments
and accessories.
Antique Taffeta
Taffeta with slub yarns in weft or in both directions.
Tapestry (HW)
1) Originally woven by hand, today most tapestry is Jacquard woven with multiple
warps and wefts creating a floral or abstract design or depicting a scene, often
historic. Upholstery, wall hangings, accessory items and insert strips for
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designer rugs. 2) Tapestry is also a form of plain weave utilized in folk rugs such
as the dhurrie, kilim, and Navajo rugs and in hand-loomed ethnic fabrics.
Tartan (MW, HW)
A Scottish highland plaid where the colors and pattern indicate a family clan.
Famous Tartan patterns include Buchanan, Cameron, Campbell, Cumming,
Ferguson, Graham, Frant, Innes, Lindsay, MacDuff, MacGregor, MacLeod of
Lewis, MacTavish and Nightwatch. Originally (and authentically) wool, they are
now manufactured fibers and blends. From the Gaelic tarstin or tarsiun indicating
the cross-pattern. In interiors it is a multipurpose fabric.
Tattersall (MW, HW)
Originally a wool black and white check horse-blanket fabric named from the
London auction house. May be other colors in varying sizes of checks and in a
variety of fibers.
Terry Cloth (HW)
Uncut or cut velvet-like pile weave fabric usually of all cotton, Used for bath and
kitchen toweling with selvage edges to prevent fraying. Plain or printed with
patterns.
Ticking (MW)
Strong cotton fabric originally used as a covering for mattresses and pillows.
Authentically a woven, vertically striped twill weave, known as Cottonade but the
decorative effect may be printed on a variety of fabrics. Most often a white or offwhite background with stripes in indigo or navy blue, black, dark green, or red.
Ticking is a multipurpose fabric suitable for casual or country settings.
Mattress Ticking
Historically, mattress ticking was the fabric described above, today it is made of
damask or single damask.
Toile (MW, HW)
Neutral or natural cotton or linen plain balanced or unbalanced weave fabric with
a pictorial scene printed in one color, typically black, indigo or navy blue,
cranberry red, deep sage green, or gold. Toile is a true multipurpose fabric, used
as upholstery, bedding, window treatments, wall upholstery, table covers and
even lamp shades (MW). Toile fabrics may be quilted to become a compound
fabric. Occasionally it is the decorative surface of a Matelasse. It may also be a
woven design (HW).
Toile de Jouy
The fabric that made Toile famous. Printed scenes of historic buildings, country
scenes including gathering of grapes and mill buildings at a stream. Men and
maids at work and flirtatious play in 18th century dress. A Rococo fabric, it is the
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essence of Country France.
Federal Toile
An American Federal pictorial including the American eagle, oval circles of stars,
flags, and other period motifs and architecture.
Pictorial Toile
This is a generic term for any toile that features historic people, scenes or
architecture.
Toweling (LW, MW, HW)
Cotton fabrics in plain or small dobby weave that is used in hand towels for the
kitchen (LW). Also a general term for bath and kitchen towel linens.
Tricot (LW)
Fine, thin warp knitted fabric with two sets of threads, making vertical wales on
the surface of the fabric and fine crosswise ribs on the back, so that it can stretch
much more crosswise than lengthwise. It is usually made of nylon and very soft
and limp. Accessory items or sculptural decorative draped effects.
Trimming (LW-HW)
General term for items that are used to finish or trim interior textile applications.
Includes Passementerie and custom made welting, banding, ruffles, ornamental
accessory items and other decorative effects attached to a textile.
Tussah (MW)
Fabric of wild or uncultivated silk. Since the silkworms feed on oak or other
leaves and evacuate the cocoon before it is harvested, the natural ecru or brown
hue is often left to become the fiber color. Slubs occur where shorter lengths are
spun together. These dye unevenly. The surface is uneven and coarse.
Tweed (MW, HW)
A coarsely textured, sturdy fabric in a plain, twill or combination weave, originally
made of wool but now also of nylon or a combination of natural and manmade
material. One color, heather effect or variegated yarns. Yarns may be wiry and
tightly spun, or bulky and heavy.
Harris Tweed
The most famous of the Scottish Tweed, which is a fabric of warmth and rugged
durability. Used for over 300 years for outerwear and especially for men’s
clothing.
Twill (MW, HW)
Type of weave where 2-5 weft threads are floated over warp threads, resulting in
a diagonal wale or rib. Twill fabrics are sturdy and used in fabrics such as denim,
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drill, and many twill fabrics. Multipurpose.
U back to top
Union Cloth (MW)
Fabric with a cotton warp and cotton/linen twisted yarn weft. The percentage is
about 50/50 cotton and linen. Usually a plain weave and a slightly coarse fabric.
Slipcovers, upholstery, window treatments, accessory items.
Upholstery Satin (HW)
A lustrous fabric with a smooth surface, heavy and strong enough for use as
upholstery. Often the base weave in Jacquard fabrics.
V back to top
Velvet (MW, HW)
A thick, short pile material often made from silk, cotton, linen, nylon, or rayon.
True velvet is woven with two sets of warps, one for the back and one for the
front pile that may be woven over round wires, then cut into two fabrics. It may
also be knitted, flocked, or woven as a single pile fabric, with cut and/or uncut
surface. There are many types of velvet.
Antique Velvet
Strie’ (subtle shaded variation) effect in the face, with slightly irregular ribs. The
back has slub yarns. Heavy upholstery.
Bagheera Velvet
Finely woven, uncut, crush-resistant velvet.
Burn-out Velvet
A pattern created by printing the textile with an acid that burns out a cellulosic
fiber, leaving an etched pattern.
Ciselée Velvet
Pattern achieved with alternating cut and uncut pile.
Chiffon Velvet
Velvet with a soft finish. Window treatments and accessory items.
Crushed Velvet
Pile is calendared in several directions for a irregular face so that wear is less
noticeable.
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Embossed Velvet
Patterns pressed into the surface with engraved calendaring rollers.
Epingle Velvet
Ribbed pin dot pattern with a soft, fine finish.
Flocked Velvet
Fibers adhered electrostatically. Accessory items.
Jardinière Velvet
Velvet pile on a satin ground.
Lyons Velvet
Thick, erect pile with a rigid hand.
Mirror Velvet A heavily panne’d velvet which increases the shine to a mirror-like
quality.
Mohair or Utrecht Velvet (HW)
Heavy upholstery velvet woven with a sturdy mohair pile. First produced in
Utrecht, Holland, this fabric may be embossed to produce a raised relief design.
Moquette Velvet (HW)
A pattern created with cut and uncut loops and perhaps some exposed plain
weave cotton background. May be multicolored.. Typically of cotton. It is a sturdy
upholstery fabric.
Panné’ Velvet (HW)
Pile is calendared or pressed down in one direction which results in a lustrous
finish. Upholstery
Plush Velvet (HW)
Deep pile upholstery velvet. Mohair velvet is a plush velvet
Ribbed Velvet (HW)
Woven with extra warp yarns to create a slight spacing in the pile, resulting in a
ribbed appearance. Ribbed velvet may also be panne’. Upholstery.
Upholstery Velvet (HW)
Deep thick, plush pile and a firm back, the thickest of all the velvets. Upholstery.
Velveteen (MW) A short, dense cotton pile and back. Versatile multipurpose fabric.
Vinyl (F)
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An extruded synthetic fabric made of polyvinyl chloride flowed onto a backing
fabric of woven, nonwoven or knitted material. An imitation leather, vinyl is an
economical upholstery textile.
Voile (TS)
A light, plain weave transparent sheer fabric made of highly twisted yarns with a
fine sandpaper-like feel and a crisp appearance. Made of wool, cotton, silk or
synthetic fibers and used for sheers and curtains.
Textured Voile
A number of different effects can be achieved by inserting textured yarns seeded or slub yarns.
Shadow Voile
Coloring methods such as strie’ effects accomplished with colored yarns.
Printed Voile
Decorative patterns applied by various printing methods.
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Warp Print
See Ikat.
Whipcord (MW, HW)
A worsted wool or man-made fabric with a strong, hard, diagonally ribbed
surface. Multipurpose and upholstery.
Wool (F)
Sheared wool of domesticated sheep. Window treatments, wall coverings,
upholstery, accessory items, rugs and carpeting.
Shetland
Wool from the Shetland sheep; a soft, lightweight quality wool.
Worsted Wool
Tightly spun long staple, finer wool fiber woven into smooth refined textiles.
Costly and used in upscale interiors.
Woolen Textiles
Short staple, coarse and bulky yarns make this fabric somewhat rough in
appearance and feel.
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Z back to top
Zephyr (S, SS)
Originally a wool fabric, now of cotton or manufactured fibers, it is a term that
indicates an airy quality of the textile, so used as an adjective. Named for
Zephrus, the god of the west wind.
Zibeline (HW)
A fabric with a long nap that lies in one direction. Typically of wool with a weft of
specialty fibers such as mohair or camel hair.
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Title:
Chapter 6
Subject:
Author:
Erica Williams
Keywords:
Comments:
Creation Date:
2/4/2006 4:52:00 PM
Change Number:
21
Last Saved On:
7/26/2007 3:35:00 PM
Last Saved By:
llafranc
Total Editing Time: 281 Minutes
Last Printed On:
7/26/2007 4:08:00 PM
As of Last Complete Printing
Number of Pages:
46
Number of Words: 14,612 (approx.)
Number of Characters:
75,400 (approx.)