Thank you very much everyone for taking the time out of your busy day to attend this I certainly hope the next hour, hour and half is beneficial to you. Let me introduce myself I know most of you, my name is Kenton Jones, and I’m one of the marketing managers here and I’ve kind of been the point person here at Multi‐Pure for the coolers for these grounded coolers and getting the coolers introduced. I’ve also been main point of contact between the supplier, the vendor of the coolers which is a company called Vertex. You guys might want to write that down and remember that. We already have some of our distributors who have experience with the Vertex Water Coolers and over all everybody seem to be happy with that. The reason we’re holding this training session, which is certainly out of the norm of what Multi‐Pure traditionally does this a required training and required certification for our Distributors before they can sell these coolers. The reason we’re doing this is the coolers are a little bit outside of the range of our normal products they are a high quality coolers, they are meant to last for several years. Because of the nature of the cooler and the electronics that go with it, the heating elements and the cooling elements and the fact that they are going to be used by many people the wear and tear and just age on coolers requires some service and so we are encouraging our distributors to become very service oriented when it comes to these coolers. Honestly a lot of the customers for these coolers will certainly be used to having service most of your customers who will be getting these coolers will be people or companies that traditionally may had a bottle cooler where some guy comes by in a truck week or every other week and drops off a bunch of 5 gallon bottles and might perform some service on the cooler, so they are used to service they use the periodic service. At least it won’t need weekly maintenance, but I certainly would encourage you. You are putting these coolers out on the field come up with some kind of service agreement with your customer as you coming by at least once every 6 months perhaps every 3 months will be fine too, but at least once every 6 months to come and check the cooler check all the connections poke around make sure everything is working like it should be. So this training over the next hour will certainly help you become a more educated and better equipped service person. On your screen right now you should be able to look at the bottle coolers we are offering. The 2 models that we’re offering the first one is called WC1000 with a Multi‐Pure Unit its WC1000MP (w/MP750SI). The WC1000MP is the cooler that comes with the unit and that’s theMP750SI and there will be some extra components that we are including and that is a shut‐off valve and I believe we are including 6‐8ft of extra tubing and the Vertex part number is called PWC1000. The other model we have is the WC1500; WC1500MP with the MP750SI, the Vertex part number is PWC1500. These are the 2 models we are offering, the model 1000 sells at a little bit lower price, functionally they are exactly the same they both have the same suction?? (5:55?) , the 1 gallon cold tank the ½ gallon hot tank all of the components from the inside are the same its just the exterior the esthetics that are a little bit different. The 1500 is about 5 inches taller, but other than that other than the color difference they function almost identical. Things that we are going to go over today in our training obviously setting up the cooler, draining the tanks which will be important on many of your maintenance calls. Removing and replacing the float, which is what controls filling up the hot tank and the cold tank, faucet repair, hot tank reset button, cold temperature adjustment, sanitization and troubleshooting. This really represents the bulk of what Vertex has informed us would be the nature of most these service calls which would require your participation in these kind of service calls. These are the most common things that may happen with the coolers. Like I said at the beginning these coolers are built to last a lifetime, but they do need some supervision. Unlike the standard Multi‐Pure unit, Stainless Steel unit as many of you know you plug it in and you change the filter once a year. That’s pretty much all you have to do with maintenance you might want to do some standard sanitization every once in a while, but it’s because of the simple filter. This is a little more complex a little more complicated by no means there is nothing inferior about these coolers. I just want you to keep in mind that all coolers require some level of service. So first of all coolers set up… I have a cooler in a box and this is how you get it from Multi‐Pure. When you first unpack the box don’t cut the yellow straps, you pull them off to the side. Once you pulled off the straps the box pretty much slips off. Its sitting on a base of Styrofoam and cardboard there is also an inner bag around the unit. The reason we’re asking to not cut those straps is to keep this box handy in the event that you need to set it up or send it back to Multi‐Pure its good to have this box. It’s a good sturdy box and the Styrofoam insert really keep this stable inside that box if you ever tried to improvise a box for a cooler you know it’s kind of a pain. It’s definitely worth holding on to that box so that’s how it comes out of the box. Moving on to the presentation next you want to select a proper location now this may not be really up to you. Your customer might want to say where they want to set up the cooler and if they are then you will just have to live with what they choose. A few spots about location of where the cooler is going to go first and for most obviously you want to have a water supply. The cooler is fed by standard ¼ inch polypropylene tubing, which is what Multi‐Pure uses already for our faucets and actually what we will be using in the next couple of months for our input line as well we’re going from ¾ inch strictly to a ¼ inch both on the inlet and the outlet. You want to pick a location which is convenient for water what’s great about ¼ inch tubing though that it’s so lightweight that in a lot of office settings you can actually run it up over top the ceiling tiles and maybe even across the rooms so you’re going to have to be prepared to improvise sometimes if there is not a nearby water supply and customers that will be having coolers up front in the lobby. So when you are doing installations remember we are only sending 6ft of tubing with the units so you may want to equip yourself with extra ¼ inch tubing when you’re going to do these installations, also keep in mind that you’re dealing with water and from time to time there are going to be some leaks whether it’s an installation error or whether there is a defect in some kind of parts on the cooler. You’re dealing with water and Murphy’s Law dictates that every once in a while there will be a leak so keep that in mind where you are installing this that you are not installing it in a $50,000 maple floor or something like that and just keep that in mind. We’ll get into a little bit later one of the accessories that we will be selling with this cooler and it is a leak detector a moisture detector, which is something we might want to install. Again anything that there is anything inherent problems with the coolers, but we all know accidents do happen and the leak detector might be a $40 investment that might go to save tens of thousands of dollars if there is a leak. So we talked about where you want to install it and some considerations obviously water locations and the usage locations and it does have a metal exterior and some plastic parts you don’t want it out in the middle of the hall where cleaning crews will be bumping into it with their vacuums every night or where people are going to bang it with their feet in a corner is always a good place so keep that in mind as well you don’t want cleaning crew bumping it every night with the vacuum cleaner. Now let’s get into the actual set up of the cooler installing the unit. I’m assuming everyone on this phone line has installed a Multi‐Pure unit so a lot of that knowledge is going to come into play when you’re installing the unit into the cooler. If you look at your screen, this is actually the cooler we have installed in our demonstration kitchen here at the office and we have a MP750 unit. These coolers come with a mounting bracket at that black piece and then Multi‐Pure will supply separately in a separate box the unit, the cartridge the fittings that you see there along with the shut off valves, I mentioned 6 feet of tubing and the bracket, which connects the unit to the black mounting plate. The bracket, which I’m sure most of you are familiar with it, is a standard mounting bracket for model 880 below sink units. It’s a good sturdy bracket we will pre‐drill the holes here so that you don’t have to drill any holes into that black mounting plate that will line up with that mounting bracket to the Multi‐Pure unit. On these coolers the front door opens on both models this is the 1500 and it comes with a mounting bracket already installed in there. Here is the cooler and all the coolers the bottom section comes up to the door inside will be the mounting bracket on the black piece it screws in. That’s the way it’s going to come so you will be required to install the unit onto this black mounting bracket. We’ll pre‐
drill the holes to make it a little bit easier for you. Now in the back of the unit, see the picture there is a ¼ inch John Guest fitting and this is where you’ll connect your feed water line into it now that fitting is just a bolt in fitting at the coupling there is a ¼ inch at the front and a ¼ inch on the inside as well. You’ll install your ¼ inch tubing there and then run the ¼ inch tubing to the inlet side on the filter and then the ¼ inch to the outlet as well. It is pretty self explanatory for anyone who has installed a Multi‐Pure unit. (Q: That’s an input from the source, is that correct? A: That is correct that is where the source water will come in) and that’s just a bolt in fitting on the other side of it is just another ¼ inch fitting with a coupling. Next, very important we’re supplying a Tee and a couple of valves here you can see in the picture. You want to pre‐flush the filter before you connect it to the cooler. Let me say that again … PRE‐FLUSH THE FILTER before you connect it to the cooler. First of all the cooler tanks only hold a gallon and ½ of water and if you’re familiar with the instructions on the Multi‐Pure unit you need to flush it for at least 20 minutes that’s about 15 gallons of water so there is not going to be enough space in there to flush it. Second of all and even more importantly is that you will be flushing carbon fines into those tanks so you want to have a clean flushed filter. Now like I said we are providing the Tee, Two ¼ inch shut off valves so that you can run a line either to a nearby sink or you might want to bring a 5 gallon bucket with you and flush the filter into that 5 gallon bucket. If you have the bucket you’re going to need to fill it up 4 or 5 times to properly flush the cartridge. Some people may choice to pre‐flush the filter before they even arrive on site to the installation, you can pop it into a counter top unit and pre‐flush that cartridge so keep that in mind. Absolutely positively flush that filter before you install it. This is something very important that I cannot impress upon you enough. You see the picture there on top left of the cooler it has 2 switches. The one on the left is the cold element switch the one on the right is the hot element switch they come from the factory in the off position it’s very important. It even has a sticker telling what to do and what not to do. DO NOT turn on both the cooler and specially DO NOT turn on the heating element until both the hot tank and cold tank are full. First of all with the hot tank you will probably trip the center and you will have to reset the center, but if you let that heating element start heating and there is no water around you run the risk of obviously overheating the element you could possible damage the element as well. So DO NOT turn on the hot element specially, but either of them until both tanks are full. That’s all to say about that, any questions so far? Ok so we have the set up once you have flushed your filter (I apologize you guys). If you have questions go ahead & type it in your chat window and hopefully I will be able to see it. So moving along again DO NOT TURN ON the hot power until the tanks are full. Cooler set up and we’ve already done, but it doesn’t hurt to go over it again. When selecting the location obviously you want water supply. This is the cooler that’s installed in Multi‐Pure’s demo kitchen this is the model 1500 it looks really sharp in our kitchen it’s a pretty nice looking cooler. Considering what the floor is around there obviously if there is a leak potential you want to keep that in mind. Next section is Draining the Tanks, which is really important when you’re doing most of your maintenance on these coolers also word first about the kind of tools you’re going to need before you get in and start doing any kind of service or maintenance on the coolers. Basically for most maintenance situations most service calls you’re only going to really need 3 tools with you. One is a fairly long flat head screwdriver, most useful is this long handle Phillips screwdriver this one has a 16 inch shaft and it’s important to have a long Phillips screwdriver and I’ll show you why here. I have a partially gutted model 1000. A lot of the access for the coolers is going to be coming in thru the back, this is the back side this is the front side (see video) so you’ll be coming thru the back and you’ll need to unscrew some Phillips head screwdrivers so if you have a long handle screw driver you can access those pretty easily this one is a little bit too long 16 inches was the best one I could find, but it’s still useful to have also same philosophy with the flat head screwdriver you need to poke in there once in a while so if you have a longer handle screwdriver. The last tool I have is a set of needle nose pliers and you really won’t need them for much but it’s good to have these around too those 3 tools are going to be the most important tools you might need some tube cutter for installing unit when cutting the ¼ inch tubing, but buying large you don’t need to buy too many specialty tools for basic maintenance basic services that we’re going to be going over today so keep that in mind. Getting back to the presentation here, draining the tanks this is important feedback on a lot of the service calls that you’re going to be doing and you are going to be draining the tank at some point. The drain is actually located on the back you can see in the pictures. The drain plug can be popped off with the flat head screwdriver it has a double silicone o‐ring seal it’s a pretty reliable seal. Have a bucket handy because that water is going to pour right out so just put the bucket under that hole and a gallon and ½ of water considering the tanks are full so just have that 5 gallon bucket so you can drain those tanks. Now to completely empty the tanks you can open up the spigots and that will let the air in the tanks and completely drain its all gravity set so it shouldn’t take all that long to drain a gallon and ½ from the tanks. Next topic is repairing and replacing the float mechanism. If anyone is familiar with how the standard toilet works there’s a float that allows the tank to get full then the float once it reaches a certain level it shuts down the water float same philosophy here same content here. The float is on the top of the tank now to access that (see picture) you will need to remove the top cover of the cooler held by 2 screws on the back. You have the 2 screws on the back to remove on the back cover and if you see on the bottom picture once you remove the cover you will see that you have direct access to the cold tank. Cold tank is on the top, hot tank is down inside water so water comes into the cold tank and runs down into the hot tank first then it fills the cold tank. So you removed the top now you can get in there to clean out the cold tank and service several parts of the cooler. Getting back to our float first of all the tubing that connects the float again they standard ¼ tubing they’re just standard John Guest fittings so you remove the tubing from that fitting then using your screwdriver you can remove the other part of the fitting the other side of the fitting and that connects to the flows mechanism (see bottom picture). Then you would remove elbow fitting the quarter/quarter elbow fitting from the float stem and then this is where those needle nose pliers come in handy there is actually a nut in there that you can unscrew with the pliers and that nut is what’s holding the float mechanism down there at the bottom you lift up the whole float assembly and this is what it looks like (see picture) now this is something that can potentially be damaged in shipping. This could potentially be a service issue and this might be something that you want to check when you’re first installing the unit again its 2 screws you pop off the top just want to poke in there and make sure that the float is functional. (Click for video to see what Kenton means) This is what it looks like in the tank this is the float when the water comes up that gages the float here it’s a little bit loose in there so if the cooler gets bumped in shipping, which we all know it can happen when it goes thru UPS or FEDEX this thing could actually pop off chances are it won’t break its polypropylene plastic it has a little bit of flexibility to it so this float can actually pop off just make sure it moves up and down like that and that it seems like its functioning. You might even wait once it starts filling up the tank to go ahead and make sure that the float engages. I would certainly recommend when you’re installing these and you’ve done your flushing procedure then you go ahead and connect the water supply to the cooler I recommend to wait and stick around and wait until those tanks are full that gallon and ½ theoretically it should only take 2 minutes for these tanks to fill with the Multi‐Pure unit. Stick around make sure that float works once you’ve installed it. If something is wrong with that float and you can’t it doesn’t appear that you cannot fix it in the field you can get replacement parts from us we will have them available for you also if you want to call Vertex directly I believe they will be happy to sell you. (Question from Distributor) Do I unplug the unit when we drain it? Yes, obviously I should of mention that earlier unplugging the unit is always a very safe and prudent idea this is electronics and when you’re working with electronics and water so unplug the unit from the wall. Even when you’re draining it’s a good idea when you’re getting inside messing with the float mechanism you might want to unplug it as well. Remember applying power to hot and cold will be the last thing you want to do. Once the tanks are full the last thing you engage will be the switches to get the hot and cold mechanism going. So good question thank you for asking. (Ok I have question here) What if the company that you have sold this to wants their facility manager to install the unit? That’s fine hey they’re the customer if that’s what they want to do if that’s their policy to have their facility people install the unit then that’s just the way it’s going to be. Certainly that takes some of the liability off of you if they install it incorrectly and there’s a leak or something then you’re not in that loop of liability so yeah of course that’s fine if they have a maintenance person, facility person or if they even have a staff plumber some bigger companies have staff plumbers and they might do the installation there. (Another question) Should the request to be there during the installation be done? Good question, you don’t have to be you can certainly be there to lend your expertise if not for the cooler itself for the unit. I would not be surprised if one of these facility guys just plugged the Multi‐Pure into the hot tank and let it rip and get a lot of carbon fine, so yeah it certainly is good service for you and to be present even if you’re not going to do the installation so you can give them some tips and pointers hopefully avoid a problem that might come up. Ok now we’ve talked about the float, let’s get into our next potential service issue. This is something Vertex pointed out to us which may be service concerned they said actually their most common service issues are the faucets the spigots. They are made out of plastic they are durable (turning on video) the faucets, this is obviously the most used part of the cooler and so this is the moving part and by nature it may from time to time may need to be replaced. This is the hot side and this is something else I should point out, on both models of coolers the hot water has a safety device and this one is very simply you just lift it and then you go ahead and dispense the hot water. If you push on this pretty hard without engaging the safety device you’re not going to get much, but if a 300 lb linebacker comes in and starts pushing on this thing there is a potential is that it’s going to break and so from time to time you may need to replace these faucet components. (close out video, go back to the presentation and will show a little bit about replacing those faucets). Again the first thing you want to do when you are replacing the faucet is remove the top cover of the cooler that gives you access to begin with. Now these pictures show you accessing the faucets from the top, which certainly something you can do. I have fairly small hands so I can get in there and I can unscrew the faucet levers fine, but some people out there might have bigger hands and have a harder time getting in there so one thing I’m going to recommend is removing the front cover as well, which is just a couple of more Phillips head screws very easy to remove so you can really get in there very easily. As it says there on your screen for most faucet problems, the working mechanism of the faucet can be replaced without having to remove the entire faucet from the cooler. The faucet body is a one piece molded plastic part that usually does not need replacing so it’s important to keep in mind. To remove the working mechanism of the faucet, reach in from the top and unscrew the top nut of the faucet mechanism. Like I mentioned earlier removing the front panel will help with access to faucets I find it a lot easier. It’s a little bit extra work, but it gives you just better access all around. You’ll unscrew the faucet connector and you lift if out of the mechanism from the faucet body. You can lift out the lever assembly. You can obtain a new lever assembly from either us or Vertex and install in the faucet base. Hand tighten the lever assembly securely this is a hand tight nut. Once again I’m going to turn on the video and show you what I’m talking about. (turn video on) On this unit we already have the top cover removed, take off the 2 screws and we are removing the front panel. Ok the front panel does have 3 LED indicator lights on and those are connected by this power cord here it’s just a plug in thing you can unplug it if you want to that way you can take the cover completely away or you can leave that cord plugged in it certainly will make it easier because then you have to re‐plug it again when you go and button up everything again and its light enough that you can leave it dangled on the side here. So I just went ahead and unplugged the cord here so now as you can see I have complete access to the 2 faucet mechanisms. This is the hot side and this is the nut I’m talking about here and it’s just a hand tighten assembly and this is the cold side. So just unscrew this top part and that pulls out the lever and it has the silicone seal so here is the seal and I actually have better pictures of this. This is the silicone seal and this is the faucet mechanism and you can see in here how it’s suppressed it lifts up on that field. It’s a simple piece if that breaks you won’t have to replace the silicone piece I think it all comes together to there it is replacing the faucet I think I have more pictures for you. Ok so there you have it once you have replaced the faucet check make sure everything is buttoned up fill the cooler with water and check for leaks. Doing well so far? Do you have any questions? If you have any questions go ahead and type it into the chat window. See I have another question here … If the customer wants to purchase our cooler, but wants to use another brand of type of water filter? That’s a good question, first of all you tell that they are really missing out having a Multi‐Pure unit and maybe they should re‐think their strategy, but I’m just kidding. If they want to use another filter system that’s fine standard ¼ inch in standard ¼ inch out again if it’s carbon filter if it’s carbon block or loose granule carbon you’ll want to pre‐flush the filter before they connect it to the hot and cold water tank so that’s up to the customer obviously. You want your customer happy right so it’s whatever they want. Another question … Do you need to have any kind of drainage of water before removing the faucet to prevent water from dripping out? Yes and that’s why I addressed emptying the tanks first. If you’re going to be working with those faucets like I mentioned earlier this is all gravity set the minute you take that seal out of that faucet body if that hot tank or cold tank are full yeah you’re going to have water all over the place. You’ll want to drain the tanks before you start working on the faucets, but good question. I just cut myself when we had the Vertex guy in here training us a few weeks back he cut himself pretty well on one of the coolers and now I’ve done the same. Ok talking about repairing and replacing the faucets. Here are some close up pictures of what the faucet looks like. Basic instructions making sure the rubber seal and lever are connected together. You connect the seal and the lever assembly by firmly pushing them together. Once you actually get one of these in your hands you’ll see how that works you just push them together. This is a good time to mention all of this material that we are going over today is covered in the Vertex they have a service manual that we will provide to all of you. Everybody who is attending this session we will provide the service manual to you on an electronic PDF version. So once you pass the little test we are going to be sending out to you today part of your certification we will be providing the service manual to you. There is a lot of material on the service manual that we’re not going over today so even though you have gone thru this and get your Multi‐Pure Certified Water Cooler Specialist status it’s still a good idea to go thru the rest of that manual that goes a little more in depth in some of the other things we are not covering today. Today’s covering is strictly for the most common service issues that you’ll run into, but the service manual goes into significant details. I have all of this information that is on this presentation that I will gladly make it available for you, but this information is also in the service manual which is different from the owner’s manual which comes with each cooler there’s a paper version of the owner’s manual where this service manual is intended for people who are going to be servicing the cooler. Next thing that is a potentially a common problem is the sensors on the hot tank from time to time they need to be reset. First of all, now that we will be working with the electronics things make sure the power cord is unplugged. Anytime you want to do any type of service the best idea is to unplug the power cord. Now this is what the back of the cooler looks like you see the coils there and thru the coils that 2nd picture is kind of a close up you see 2 sensors there, top sensor and bottom sensor. Now if the hot power is turned on without water in the hot tank remember we said you don’t want to do that, but if it happens the heating element will probably most likely will over heat. To prevent this, the upper thermal sensor will cut power to the heat element before any damage takes place. Theoretically you don’t want to test it. Now I believe the upper sensor gets tripped at 210 degrees. Lower sensor brings the water up to 180 degrees Fahrenheit the upper sensor if it detects that things inside there get to 210 degrees it’s just going to shut off everything completely. Now if this happens the switch on the thermal sensor can be reset to operational mode manually by doing this procedure that I’m about to explain. The circular sensors that are on the hot tank I already mentioned that the lower one is set at 82 degrees Celsius about 183 Fahrenheit. Using a long thin object like the 16 inch screwdriver that I mentioned that you should have from before you can actually just poke in there and press the little button that’s on the center of that reset button. That is the reset button you’ll feel a click when you depress the button and this resets the over‐temp sensor. Before you go in jamming any screwdrivers remember to unplug the unit. Next topic, Cold Tank Temperature Adjustment (I’m going to check to see if we have any more questions). Question: How much should it be charged for service calls? That’s entirely up to you depends what kind of service you’re going to be offering in some cases your service might just be eyeballing the unit and checking the functionality of it which I don’t know you might want to charge $20‐25 dollars. It’s up to you how much do you think your time is worth to you? Now if you come up with some kind of service agreements and a service contract with your customer it may be required that you come in and replace cartridges once every 3 months or every 6 months whatever the usage of the cooler demands. So your service call charge should reflect how much work you’re going to be doing if you’re replacing a cartridge obviously you’re going to be doing more maintenance looking inside the cold tank making sure the float is functional, checking that kind of stuff out you know you may want to charge $50 or $65 dollars. So it’s entirely up to you, how much do you think your time is worth? Question: Do these coolers come with the capacity monitor? That’s something I was going to address a little bit later, we are making available the capacity monitor which normally comes with the model MP880 unit. This is a capacity monitor that does not have that light plate if you’re familiar with the model MP1200EL you’ll know it has a light plate underneath the faucet that flashes green when everything is good and it flashes red when it’s time to replace the filter. Obviously if it doesn’t have a standard Multi‐Pure faucet you can’t you use that one, but the Model 880 it just has a little box with an LCD digital display on it those are programmable so we will be offering the monitor units with the coolers. Actually you can get a monitor unit for any unit that are programmable, I think we are going to be charging $90 for those, so yeah if your customer wants to have a capacity monitor and it will all tuck inside that cabinet underneath. The monitor comes with some sticky mounting tape so you can stick up on the side there so when you come and do your service you can just open up the cabinet door and see what the capacity on the unit is. So good question and yes we will be offering capacity monitors on coolers. Getting back on what we had here Cold Tank Temperature Adjustment. The hot tank is not adjustable the sensors come factory programmed like I said 180 degrees which is pretty darn hot so that’s plenty hot for an instant cup of coffee plenty hot for tea. The hot tank is pre‐programmed the cold tank is however adjustable you can see on the picture the top right of the backside of the cooler (turn on the video again) ok this little brass that looks like a flathead screw. Get your screwdriver in there now it comes from the factory in this position as you see on your screen there it has a 270 degree travel. Basically to make the water colder if the customer is trying out the cooler and after a week they say it’s not cold enough simply just turn the hot water thermostat down and that will make the water colder. If it’s too cold and its icing up you may want to turn it counter clockwise and turn the temperature up a little bit. Like I said 270 degrees travel DO NOT FORCE THIS you end up replacing parts, it turns very easily if it’s not turning easily you’ve got another problem. It’s almost turning like 2 o’clock position from the factory so that’s where it is and that’s how you address the cold temperature for the cold water. (Sue, one of our Distributors who has had experience with our Vertex Coolers) She said that having this cold temperature adjustment is very handy because some customers might want really cold water and you can actually turn it to the point where the water can almost be at room temperature if you turn it almost all the way counter clockwise to the left you will get pretty much room temperature water. TROUBLESHOOTING, now what we’ve gone over like I said are the real basics these are the kind of things kind of service calls that Vertex informed us would be the most likely replacing the faucets, servicing the float and the cold tank. The sensor in the hot tank getting tripped and having to reset that so those are some common things and the whole idea here is that we won’t have to be calling Multi‐Pure, which is fine you know our staff has been very well trained on these coolers. We went thru a whole day of training on these coolers went more in depth than what this training so we have some good people I believe Joanne, Julia, Lorinda, Armando and myself (Kenton) so we have staff is ready to handle this stuff as you know getting instructions over the phone is not as easy as having you good people you folks right on the ground right there in front of the customer and able to help their customer needs that’s really the point of this certification. So getting back to what I was mentioning now about troubleshooting a lot of this stuff is common sense forgive me if it seems like I’m talking down to you that is not the intend here, but often times that’s the best solution most obvious solution and often times that the most overlooked solution so it’s worth mentioning. That’s why we are going to be going over some of these. First problem is if the water isn’t cold, well its possible the cooler isn’t plugged in make sure the power cord is plugged into wall socket. Second issue Power switch in the back might not on, you know when you were doing service or when you were installing it you forgot to turn the switch on or if someone moved the cooler and they wrapped their hands around the back and they hit the power switch. So make sure it’s plugged in, make sure the switch is in the ON position. You can adjust the temperature control last thing we talked about perhaps that screw got turned to far off to the left counter clockwise you can always turn it clockwise and you can adjust that. Not all the cold water has been drained, that’s a potential too as well now it’s unlikely if that’s the case this is something else you might want to double check that the Multi‐Pure filter system is functioning properly and that the valves all turned in the ON position, excuse me the valve servicing coolers in the ON position you don’t want to turn ON your drain valve for the flushing. Once you do fill up the tank the 1 gallon tank should take a little over a minute to fill it up with Multi‐Pure water and about 15‐20 minutes it will cool it down for you. When water is not hot, again cooler might not be plugged in make sure the power cord is plugged into a wall socket. Power switch might not be on so again somebody might have bumped that switch in the back or when you were servicing it. The good service person you are you might turned off the hot power switch very important said it 3 times already and I’m going to say it again turn off that hot power switch if the hot water tank is going to be drained. Make sure you turn it back on when it’s time to button things up and you are returning the coolers to service. Electrical terminal could be disconnected, this isn’t something we really got into in depth and this is something that is covered extensively and that is something that I mentioned that you all will be getting. See that both wires are connected to the heating element terminals located at the bottom of the tank so you might want to check that out as well. Briefly we’ll go over the specifications for the units Voltage, Weight the shipping weight is 48‐50 lbs per box. Water capacity 1.5 gallons made up of .5 gallon on hot tank and 1 gallon in cold tank. Power Consumption 600 Watts hot tank is 500 Watts cold tank is 100 Watts. Temperature we’ve already talked about this is Hot temperature is about 180 degrees and Cold, which is adjustable is about 38 degrees. Some other specifications that aren’t mentioned here, but are very important for you guys to know both the Hot tank and the Cold tank are made of Stainless Steel, which is one of the reasons that we chose to go with Vertex not all cooler companies use stainless steel tanks some of them will use plastic tanks. We just think it’s important specially when you’re talking about hot water and cold water it’s good to have stainless steel tanks I do believe most hot tanks out there are stainless steel the heating element is incased in that stainless steel so you cannot replace the heating element by itself. You have to replace to whole Hot tank if the heating element goes bad and in the service manual you’ll find in‐depth instructions on that hot tank really shouldn’t be happening that often, but in case you need it that service manual will help you address that. Some other specifications here the plastic parts that I mentioned here are all polypropylene, which is the same plastic material that Multi‐Pure uses for our end caps and most of our plastic fittings polypropylene is very well accepted by NSF because of the lack of contaminants that leech off of it so it’s good plastic that doesn’t leech contaminants. The seal in there and some of tubing is silicone is good pliable to all sealing material. Keep this in mind compressor is a sealed unit we’re talking about the cold tank it’s a sealed unit and is really not serviceable in the field unless you are certified with refrigeration equipment. The compressor is just something you cannot fix in the field and so there on the service manual you can see there’s not going to be any instructions. They can be replaced by qualified refrigeration technician who has the proper tools and equipment go ahead and contact us or Vertex if you feel the compressor needs servicing. The compressor has a 3 year warranty along with the cold tank elements everything else on the cooler has a 1 year warranty. Next item for consideration, cooler should not be used with water hardness over 7 grains this is because of lime scale build up it can happen. First of all, the heating element which nobody can see that is something that it can potentially trip the heating sensor on the back if you have lime scale builds up in that element it’s going to be working harder and harder eventually it’s going to go out. So if you’re dealing with hard water you might want to see if there is some softener possible there are some phosphate filters out there that will do some softening for your just keep that in mind. Obviously esthetically when you’re working with hard water there will be some build up on faucet on the spout or the spigots so that is something as well. Keep this in mind Multi‐Pure’s #800 like I mentioned a lot of our customer service folks have been thoroughly trained on this coolers and will be able to help you. You can email [email protected] or you can contact me directly that’s my email [email protected] my extension here is 248, but if you just ask for Kenton I guarantee you I’ll be catch by someone who works here. (turn video on) There is something I thought of that might be important Model 1500 I mentioned earlier that inside the guts are all the same the cooler the compressor the heating elements are all the same esthetically there a few differences. When you’re servicing it the top of this comes off just like it does on the Model 1000 I just showed, however a little bit different is this which is the front cover the front panel just pulls off it has these plastic tabs here and again it’s connected by electronics here. It’s light enough that you can just let it dangle on the side this gives you easier access to those faucets, sorry I should of mentioned that when we were talking about faucets, but that front panel pulls right out you need to put a little bit of muscle into it you might want to practice so when you have to go out on the field you can have easy access to these faucets. To drain these do not have a drain, they do not come equipped with a drain. They do come equipped with a drip tray, this is the drip tray for the Model 1500 there is a type of plug back here, they told us they were going with the idea of equipping a drain, but you really don’t need a drain on these and once you connect to a sewer line you’re going to get all other kind of headaches. So it’s best to leave it as a drip tray not a drain so from time to time you might want to let your customer know just have somebody pull it out it just has a little rubber o‐ring seal and it pulls right out. Just pull it out and dump it out in the sink and take a paper towel and wipe it out with it. Another question pertaining to the drip tray you can see here it has 2 holes or these 2 circles those actually have a purpose. When this is here and you’re standing up and you’re filling a bottle at this angle it’s hard to see where the spouts well the spouts are directly above these 2 holes and if you put your cup over that little circle that’s where the water is going to come down. On the Model 1000 I have the panel removed here same concepts it has a drip tray this drip tray however lifts up so you can take it out and drain it. Same idea with the little holes here shows you were the faucets are so I think that’s it. I’m going to un‐mute everyone’s line here, oh also something else that you definitely want to check out on the service manual are the sanitization procedures. I know I mentioned that in the agenda something to go over, but it’s pretty straight forward it just mentions getting a few drops of bleach mixing it in there and rinsing it out, the full instructions for the sanitization procedure are in there. 1:12:10 QUESTIONS FROM DISTRIBUTORS: Q: Earlier it said that the ¼ inch tubing is polyethylene and you just mentioned that the valves are polypropylene, please clarify? A: Carol you’re absolutely right the tubing is polyethylene that is standard tubing we have been using for years has flexibility in it, but it is also firm enough that it holds into the John Guest fittings. Polyethylene tubing is what most manufactures of water drinking system use NSF Certified it’s not going to leech anything. The harder plastic parts are polypropylene again what is considered to be a very fairly safe plastic. Ok Sue thank you for reminding me… Two of the things that I mentioned this is the leak controller the leak detector this is something we have available for $45.00 and this thing is really cool. Basically it has two parts I’m going to try to set this up live TV, so it comes with a battery pack these are standard AA batteries so if you need to replace them that’s fine. For those who were in the vacation in Mexico just a couple of weeks ago I believe Trina brought one of these down there to show you. Ok so you plug in the batteries, 2 components these is the switch mechanism right here and this is connected by a wire this is the actual leak detector plate. The gray part is what you will want to install at the lowest possible point it might be down on the bottom inside of the cooler it might actually be on the floor behind the cooler that’s what I would actually recommend and it has this 2 sensors on the bottom very sensitive and I will demonstrate it in a minute. To install it you have ¼ inch fittings on both sides you feed your water line before it gets to the cooler you install the ¼ inch line and out and to engage it you twist this little dial to the green, which means water can flow. I’m going to put this on my hand since there is moisture on my hand (hear click) I don’t know if you heard that, but just the moisture in my hand was enough to engage it and it switched to red it cut off the water supply and hopefully you hear that alert. That alerts whoever is there that there has been a leak and that the water has been shut off the flashing blue light and audio that awful noise. To reset it just twist and you’re good to go again so $45 dollars is a small price to pay for a peace of mind. The second option the other optional piece of equipment that we have here is the riser stand this is the front of it. It looks like it’s 5 different pieces, but it’s actually just one solid piece and this is for the Model 1000 you can kind of see they have the 1500 and 1000 right next to each the 1500 is a little bit taller like 5 inches taller like I mentioned you put this riser under the Model 1000 and it raises it up. I’m 6 ft tall so sometimes bending down to fill up a water bottle could be a pain in the back so it’s nice to have it raise a little bit makes it a little bit easier to see where the spigots are so that’s $25 dollars I believe something else to keep in mind. Now I’m going to attempt to open the phone line here so bare with me please. (Phone lines were open now) 1:17:15 Jim Moorehouse: A suggestion on the service agreement we might want to add something to that in reference to who does the installation just to save ourselves some problems later. Kenton: That’s a good point Jim, yeah and that depends on what level of service that you want to provide. Some people may want to really have that extra revenue and might want to be the ones installing it people may want to just distance themselves as much as possible and have the customer install it so that’s entirely up to you that’s a good point that you’ll want to stipulate if you create some kind of service contract. Jim Moorehouse: My thought on that too is if they elect not to have me do that I would want to keep record of that incase there are problems later on that would be one reason not that I’m not necessarily wanting to do the service it’s just to protect me in case somebody else does it and something goes rye on the thing. Kenton: Yeah that’s a really good point. Anybody else have any questions? Richard: Regarding that same thought, regarding the liability if they placed one over the weekend and I’m the service guy, am I going to be liable or is Multi‐Pure going to be liable? Kenton: That’s a good question Richard. Richard: I’m not a Corporation you know what do I know? Mr. Right is now raising eyebrows Kenton: You will find that various Insurance companies will get involved and they will all point the fingers at everybody else. So what it will come down to is was it a defect in the material or was it a defect in the installation? So that’s where the liability stands is really was it a parts that malfunction or was it a person. Richard: Obviously if we everything because we were trained so well that it wasn’t my fault and it was the parts or whatever then Vertex standing by to be backing us up on that so that it can be proven or am I going to be getting into a whole He said, She said. Kenton: You know Richard this is something that Multi‐Pure has been in business for over 40 Years there has been leaks with units over those 40 years and we deal with those on a case to case basis so it’s impossible to give you a general answer on that. Anything else? Jim Moorehouse: The other thing too in lines of that I think you need to insure yourself if you’re going out and doing some installations I think it would be wise to get some kind of insurance to protect yourself obviously. Sue to Kenton: Kenton this is Sue Kenton to Sue: Hi Sue! Sue: Great presentation, Thank you for this. I have a couple of tips, Scott was listening in and he has installed a couple of coolers we had a couple of quick tips, if that’s ok? Kenton: Yeah absolutely Sue: So in addition to the tools that you were mentioning, additional items could be some Teflon tape and also a crescent wrench because sometimes if the water source is on the wall you might need to adjust a bolt or nut or something and a crescent wrench can be handy to Hench up some kind of a connection. Kenton: I’m glad you mentioned that and I’m going to interrupt you and I’ll let you finish in a second that’s an excellent point. We didn’t get it all in fine sense of water it may be that you might need a Multi‐Pure’s adapter valve to go ahead and get that source in which Sue is talking about getting a crescent wrench and Teflon tape to get that source water ready to get to that cooler. Sue: That adapter Valve is a good option at the wall or at the force of the water just as an additional shut‐off valve too and an addition to bracketing the water filter and the bottom half of the cooler if someone didn’t actually want it bracketed, which that is a really good idea and it’s very convenient to do the system will actually just fit at the bottom of the cooler and of course you can have some kind of a tray or a little container that it will fit in if you wanted to do that. Kenton: That’s a really good point too Sue the current configuration of the Models 750 will be changing over here probably in the next few months to a rounded bottom MP750 Sue: Then never mind Kenton: It may or may not fit we’ll also have a little acrylic sleeve that it comes in. What was the older model we had sitting in the acrylic sleeve? But yeah that’s a very good point Sue. Actually some people will opt to install the unit on the outside and actually mounted on the side of the cabinet of the cooler it’s metal housing so it can actually stand the weight because they want the customers to see the water they filter is by Multi‐Pure. So having it out is another option good point Sue. Sue: One other quick thing is it could be helping having OTO drops and cups we know that the water filter is going to be filtering out the chlorine and those things, but sometimes is just a good little thing that we did for ourselves at the end of the whole process run the cold water and just do that OTO drops just to be certain. Kenton: Great, Thanks! Ed: On my cooler installations I put a shut off at the source and I also put an in‐line ¼ inch valve just before it goes into the back of the cooler that way the maintenance facility people can get quick at the shut off at the line and if there is a problem within the line back to the source they can shut it off. Kenton: That’s a really good point Ed. Thanks for pointing that out Ed: And if you have to swap out a cooler you need a ¼ inch shut off valve because you have line pressure built up and when you disconnect it will pop water all over the place. Kenton: Gotcha, very good point Ed. Ed: The other thing is I carry a spare unit if it takes a long time to diagnose a problem in like a doctor’s office or in some of these other places I sometimes just swap them out and you know how that works because I took care of you and then I deal with it later, but I’m not saying to have your Distributors buy a second unit I’m just saying I have some spares I swap out. I don’t want to drive 50 miles and take care of something and it’s a problem that takes too long to fix. I can just swap it out and get them back in business and then I deal with that one later then I just put it somewhere else or if I get the time I go back and re‐swap it out back to the original. Kenton: Yeah and there is an overall lesson to be learned from this session this hour and ½ that we got thru today is simply an introduction to the service and maintenance of these coolers. There is so much more that you will learn once you are out on the field and actually install these things like bringing along the Teflon tape and wrench like Sue was saying or the extra valves and extra units like Ed was saying. These are things that you’ll be picking along the way it’s going to be a learning experience so very good point Ed. Ed: Of course they’ll need a big roll of ¼ inch tubing that comes in different colors, but when you run it down in columns like in offices try to blend it in to the column like if it’s a white column run white tubing if it’s a dark column like a black you run a black tube or dark tube so you don’t see the contrast of the installation. Sue: I actually had a customer who painted their tubing to match the wall and that worked out really well. Ed: In one case I actually had a tubing problem on the wall and what I did was you know that stick on wire able stuff that you hide wires on the wall with, I placed that vertically up the wall I set it level and then I ran tube up thru that and it was adhesive back and it just stuck on the wall and they didn’t see the tube at all. Some people got concerned about the tube being possibly damage if something was hidden against the wall so that’s one way I protect it. Kenton: Do we have any other questions? We’re going to wrap things up here. Can we take the test later? Kenton: Yeah I will be emailing the test today obviously it’s an open book test so once you finish that test just email it back to us and we’ll get you all certified. We’ll send you a little Certificate out to you too. Richard: Good Job Kenton. Kenton: Thanks Richard! Are the warranty instructions and installation procedures posted on the web pdf format for download? Kenton: I’m not sure if Laurie has posted that we have it all in electronic format I’m not sure if it’s been posted or if she’s going to wait until after this training session to do that. Can you email it out to us? Kenton: Yeah I can email it out to you. Sue: Kenton, does Multi‐Pure have brochures and flyers and that sort of thing made up yet for the coolers? Kenton: We are going to have some brochures or some flyers excuse me made up for the coolers it’s just a color sheet one for each model that isn’t quite made up yet it’s about half way done. Sue: Are the prices going to be on those flyers? Kenton: Yes the retail prices will be on those flyers ?: What kind of credit do we get? This is not part of the same program for distributors and the Multi‐Level thing? Kenton: Yeah we actually got into commissioning on one of the previous presentations which is on the web, but briefly coolers themselves have a flat one level commission. $100 for the Model 1000, $120 for the Model 1500 and then the unit is 750SI commission as usual level commission. So Master Builder could make as much as $279, $280 on the sale of a Model 1500 cooler with the unit and that does include and I know there was some confusion in the past that does include the $59.95 distributor discount. So you can discount units and the cooler combos by up to $59.95 if you choose too. That is the only discount that is available obviously following on our other advertising guidelines as far as advertising a discount. Sue: So the prices that are set are without the discount, correct? Kenton: That is correct. The price is the whole retail price. Jim Moorehouse: You could do a Filtermania then with that I imagine is that correct? Kenton: If you want to work out your own kind of deal, you could buy a Filtermania separately and the cooler separately and then you know do your own thing. Yeah, you’re welcome to do so that’s why we sell the coolers by itself people out there might already have a unit or they want to do a Filtermania or something like that. Sixdeniel: Hi Kenton, Are we going to have new order form for these? Are there going to be different order forms for the coolers? Kenton: That’s a good question for Laurie I’m not sure if Laurie is still on the line here. I’m going to have to let Laurie answer that one she might do that in a separate email. Richard: Kenton, little tip on the float problem if Vertex could take a little bit of the green paper for packaging put a little piece under the float and a little piece on top that would possibly stop it from breakage or moving around during shipping. Kenton: Oh ok yeah that’s a good point. I don’t know if we’re going to be able to do something like that. Jim: Maybe when they assemble it they could probably do it. Kenton: Yeah, I can contact Vertex see if that’s something they could possibly do. Jim: Maybe there’s not a lot of problem with that. Good presentation! Kenton: Alright, Thank you all very much. I had a question here the item that is $25 is the riser stand that’s for the Model 1000. The leak detector is $45 the riser stand is $25, just to clarify that. Thank you everyone for your time today we will be sending out an email to all of you who attended with your test on it and as soon as you complete that test you can send it back to us. We’ll get you certified and get started on sending these coolers out the door. Thank you again for your time and good luck with these coolers I think it’s a very exciting business opportunity and I appreciate your time and your willingness to learn a little bit extra of the service. Have a great day and we’ll be in touch!