Kitten Vaccines
Many infectious diseases are fatal to cats. Fortunately, we have the ability to prevent many of these by
the use of vaccines. In order to be effective, these vaccines must be given as a series of injections.
Ideally, they are given at about 8, 12, and 16 weeks of age, but this schedule may vary somewhat
depending on several factors. The routine or core vaccination schedule will protect your kitten from the
most common diseases: feline distemper (panleukopenia), feline viral rhinotracheitis, calicivirus and
rabies. The first three are included in a combination vaccine that is given every three weeks starting at
eight weeks of age and ending at twelve to sixteen weeks of age.
Feline Viral Rhinotracheitis:
Rhinotracheitis is a respiratory disease caused by herpesvirus-1. “Rhinotracheitis” means inflammation
of the nose and windpipe, or trachea. Herpesvirus-1 also affects the reproductive tract and can cause
problems during pregnancy. Feline rhinotracheitis is spread between cats through direct contact with
the eyes or nose of an infected cat or through contaminated objects, such as food and water bowls.
Symptoms include Sneezing, discharge from the eyes and nose, and conjunctivitis (inflammation of the
membrane lining of the eyelid)
Calicivirus:
Calicivirus is a common virus in cats that causes upper respiratory infection. Feline calicivirus is resistant
to many disinfectants and can survive outside a cat’s body for several days.Symptoms include sneezing,
discharge from the eyes and nose, pneumonia, mouth sores and arthritis (in some cases)
Panleukopenia:
Panleukopenia (sometimes called feline distemper) is a highly contagious, severe infection that causes
gastrointestinal, immune system, and nervous system disease. “Panleukopenia” means a decrease in the
number of white blood cells and is caused by a virus (feline parvovirus) that is very similar to the virus
that causes parvovirus in dogs. Feline panleukopenia virus (FPV) can survive at room temperature for up
to 1 year and is persistent in the environment.1 It can be transmitted directly between cats and through
contact with objects, such as shared food and water bowls, grooming items, etc. Infected pregnant cats
can also pass FPV to their kittens. Humans can transmit FPV to cats through contact with hands,
clothing, or shoes. SYymptoms include diarrhea, vomiting, anorexia, low white blood cells, depression
and seizures.
Feline Viral Rhinotracheitis, Calicivirus and Panleukopenia are all included in one vaccine, "FVRCP"
Feline Leukemia Virus:
Feline leukemia virus (FeLV) is a retrovirus that replicates within many tissues, including bone marrow,
salivary glands, and respiratory epithelium. Social behavior such as mutual grooming and sharing food or
water dishes is the most common means of transmission. FeLV in saliva, nasal secretions, urine, feces,
and blood is transmitted to healthy cats during intimate contact with infected cats. Kittens can acquire
the virus from infected mothers while still in the womb or through nursing.
Rabies:
Rabies is a fatal disease that attacks the nervous system. All warm-blooded animals, including humans,
are vulnerable to infection with rabies virus. The disease is usually transmitted through saliva from a bite
but may also be spread if the infected saliva enters the body through a cut or comes in contact with the
eyes, nose, or mouth. Bats are the largest carrier of Rabies in British Columbia.
FeLV and Rabies are not considered core vaccines in cats with a STRICTLY indoor lifestyle. If your cat
goes outdoors (even if just in the yard) we highly recommend vaccinating against FeLV and Rabies.
Vaccination Schedule:
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8 Weeks – FVRCP, Feline Leukemia (FeLV)
12 Weeks – FVRCP, Feline Leukemia (FeLV), Rabies
1 year from 12 week vaccines – FVRCP, Feline Leukemia (FeLV), Rabies
Introducing New Kittens to Household Pets
I have just taken on a second cat and I want to maximize the chance of successful integration. What
should I do?
Cats are territorial animals and when you are introducing a second feline you need to remember that
they need to establish their own space within the home. It might be best therefore to provide the new
cat with a separate housing area and slowly integrate the cats during times when they are likely to be
occupied, distracted or enjoying themselves (such as feeding, play or treat times). Until they develop
some degree of familiarity, introductions are unlikely to be successful. When the cats are brought
together, key resources such as food, litter boxes, shelter and social interaction need to be available in
sufficient amounts to ensure that there is no unnecessary conflict. It is sensible to space these resources
around the home to minimize the need to share them directly.
Increasing the amount of available space within the home can be achieved by making use of three
dimensional features of the house by adding furniture, shelving and aerobic centers which allow the
cats to make use of vertical as well as horizontal space. If problems arise, an extended period of
separation followed by a very gradual re-introduction, perhaps accompanied by the use of pheromones
and/or drugs, might need to be considered.
Although some kittens may show fear and defensive postures toward other pets in the home, most
young kittens are playful and inquisitive around other animals. Therefore, it is often the existing pets
that can pose more of a problem. If you know or suspect that your adult dog or cat might be aggressive
toward the kitten, then you should seek professional behavior advice before introducing the pets to
each other.
The kitten should be given a safe and secure area that provides for all of its needs (as above), and
introductions with the existing family pets should be carefully supervised. At the first introduction there
may be no immediate problems, and reinforcement of desirable responses may be all that is required.
If there is some mild anxiety on the part of your dog then introductions should be controlled, gradual,
supervised and always positive. Your new kitten could be placed in a carrier or on a leash and harness so
that it will not provoke your dog. Then, using a leash for control, favored rewards and training
commands, encourage your dog to sit or stay calmly in the presence of the cat. Dogs that are not well
trained to settle on command may need their training reviewed and improved before introduction.
Alternatively a leash and head halter could be used for more immediate control and safety. Calm
investigation should then be encouraged and reinforced. Any initial anxiety on the part of the dog or
kitten should soon decrease and, if the dog is prevented from rough play and chasing, the kitten should
quickly learn its limits with the dog, including how to avoid confrontation by climbing or hiding. Initially
it would be best to keep a dog and a kitten separated unless supervised. If, after some cautious initial
introductions, there were still the possibility of aggression or injury, then a behavior consultation would
be advisable.
Most adult cats are fairly tolerant of kittens, so that keeping the kitten in its own area, and then allowing
introductions when the cats are eating or playing, should help to decrease any initial anxiety. A leash
and harness or a crate can be used to control one or both of the cats during initial introductions. A
synthetic cheek gland scent (Feliway®), either as a spray or diffuser, may also be useful for easing
introductions. Most cats and kittens will soon work out their relationship on their own, without injury.
Debra Horwitz, DVM, Diplomate ACVB & Gary Landsberg, DVM, Diplomate ACVB
© Copyright 2009 Lifelearn Inc. Used and/or modified with permission under license.
Internal Parasites in Cats
Are there different sorts of internal parasites or worms?
There are several types of internal parasites that cause problems in cats. These include nematodes or
roundworms, of which Toxocara cati, Toxascaris leonina (intestinal roundworm) and Dirofilaria immitis
(heartworm) are the main examples, and cestodes or tapeworms of which Dipylidium caninum, Taenia
species and Echinococcus species are important examples. Ancylostoma species (hookworms) are also
common internal parasites in many parts of the United States and Canada.
Are these infections serious in the cat?
Intestinal worms can be a serious problem in young kittens. Hookworms can cause anemia and
roundworms can lead to poor growth and development.
Intestinal parasites are only occasionally life-threatening in adult cats, and are usually seen in debilitated
animals or those that are immunosuppressed.
Heartworm disease is a major life-threatening problem in dogs, and becoming more of a threat to cats.
Heartworm disease is transmitted by mosquitoes.
What will happen if my cat gets worms?
Roundworms
If a growing kitten is infected with a large number of roundworms, the worms can stunt the kitten's
growth, cause serious digestive upsets and result in excessive gas formation. These kittens have a
characteristic 'pot bellied' appearance. Nematodes (roundworms) are free-living in the intestines.
Roundworms do not require an intermediate host to spread from cat to cat, but can be transmitted
from cat to cat via infective eggs shed in the feces.
Hookworms
Hookworms, particularly Ancylostoma, are one of the most pathogenic intestinal parasites of the cat.
The hookworm is approximately ½ to 1" (1-2 cm) long and attaches to the lining of the small intestines,
where it feeds on blood. As a result of blood sucking, hookworms can cause severe anemia. The
infective larvae can enter the host either by mouth or through the skin, particularly the feet. Eczema and
secondary bacterial infection can result due to irritation as they burrow through the skin.
Tapeworms
In order to get tapeworms, an intermediate host such as a flea, a bird or a certain species of rodent is
required. In other words, your cat cannot get tapeworms directly from another cat or a dog.
Dipylidium caninum, the most common tapeworm of the cat, causes few problems in the adult host but
can result in digestive upsets and stunting of growth in kittens. The intermediate host of Dipylidium is
the flea.
Taenia species of tapeworms usually infect adult cats and cause few problems. Kittens are occasionally
infected (mostly when they eat raw prey) and, depending on the type of worm involved, the large
number of worms can cause intestinal blockage. The intermediate host for Taenia species is small
mammals such as rodents or rabbits, and some species of birds.
Echinococcus, another type of tapeworm, is important because it is zoonotic, meaning humans can be
infected. The adult tapeworm is tiny, only about ¼" (5-6 mm) long. Sheep and sometimes man can act as
the intermediate hosts in which the immature forms of Echinococcus develop inside hyadatic cysts in
various organs. In man, these cysts can involve the lungs or brain.
Spaying or Neutering Your Cat
What happens when my kitten comes in to be spayed?
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We will examine your kitten and weigh her.
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She will be given a pre-anesthetic medication to help protect her circulatory system under
anesthetic as well as cause relaxation
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At the time of his surgery she will be given an intravenous injection to make her sleepy. We will
then give her oxygen and anesthetic gas through an endotracheal tube. This keeps her asleep
during the surgery.
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We clip the hair on her abdomen and wash it for surgery. We also attach the monitoring
equipment.
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This equipment measures her heart rate, blood pressure, oxygen saturation, respiratory rate
and temperature.
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When your kitten recovers from the anesthetic, she is given a pain-relief injection. This insures
that she will have a smooth recovery and be comfortable until she is ready to go home.
What happens when my kitten comes in to be neutered?
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We will examine your kitten and weigh him.
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He will be given a sedative to cause relaxation, and which protects his heart during surgery.
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At the time of his surgery he will be given an intravenous injection to make him sleepy. He will
then give him oxygen and isoflurane gas (anesthetic) through an endotracheal tube. This keeps
him asleep during the surgery.
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We clip the hair around his scrotum and wash the area for surgery. We also attach the
monitoring equipment. This equipment measures her heart rate, blood pressure, oxygen
saturation, respiratory rate and temperature.
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The surgery involves an incision just in front of the scrotum and complete removal of both
testicles.
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When your kitten recovers from the anesthetic, he is given a pain-relief injection. This insures
that he will have a smooth recovery and be comfortable until he is ready to go home.
Anesthesia
Spaying and neutering are routine surgeries, but because they require an anesthetic there is a risk just
like with any anesthetic procedure. We take every precaution that we can to minimize the risks while
every patient is under anesthesia:
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We only use the safest gas anesthetic.
We use pre-anesthetic and induction medications that minimize the amount of gas anesthetic
needed, and provides circulatory support.
We provide pain medication during surgery to lessen discomfort felt by the patient after
surgery.
Pet’s heart rate and blood pressure are continuously monitored with a Doppler heart and blood
pressure monitor.
All pets are monitored by a skilled, trained, and experienced Animal Health Technician.
Pre-anesthetic blood work
Your pet looks healthy, and has been given a clean bill of health by the veterinarian. So why would we
consider doing a blood test?
Even young animals can have underlying problems with their major organs that can’t be detected by a
physical exam. A blood test lets us know how the major organs (kidneys, heart, liver etc.) are working.
Most young animals will not have a problem in their lab work, in this case it gives us a base line for
what’s “normal” for your pet in case there are future problems.
A small amount of pets do have problems that would lead us to change the types of anesthetic or pain
control drugs used, or to postpone the surgery all together.
Intravenous Fluids
IV fluids are delivered through a catheter. They have many benefits, including:
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Supporting the kidneys. The kidneys excrete the anesthetic drugs, and IV fluids make it easier for
the kidneys to filter them out. This helps your pet recover from anesthetic faster.
Blood pressure. Anesthetics can lower an animal’s blood pressure. IV fluids help keep blood
pressure at a normal level.
Hydration. Because pets are fasted before surgery they can become a little dehydrated. IV fluids
help alleviate this.
Quick access to a vein in case of an emergency. If an emergency does happen, every second
counts. If an IV catheter has already been placed, we will have instant access to a vein to deliver
emergency drugs.
Litter Training Your Kitten
Do I need to train my new kitten to use a litter box?
Most cats by nature prefer to use a soil type surface for elimination. By providing a litter box with an
appropriate and appealing substrate (material), few cats will need to be trained to use it. At about 30-36
days of age kittens leave the nest to search out a loose substrate for elimination.
The kitten learns specific areas and substrates to use by observation of the queen (mother). Although
some cats, especially those on their own property, will dig and bury their wastes, many cats only partly
cover their feces especially if they are off of their home territory. Some cats do not bury urine or stools
at all, even on their own property; these cats may prove harder to litter train.
How can I train my new cat to use the litter box and area that I have selected?
Initially it is best that the kitten be confined to a small area with an appropriate sized litter box. This
allows you to take advantage of a cat's tendency to eliminate in a loose material. As long as the kitty
litter is easily accessible and is the only loose substrate available, very little effort should be required to
litter box train the kitten. If you confine the cat for any length of time (e.g. if you are going to work for
the day), ensure that the room has all the cat's necessities including litter box, water, food or feeding
toys, scratching and play toys, and places to climb and explore.
One indoor area that might be equally or more appealing to some cats is the soil around houseplants.
Ensuring that the cat is prevented from getting into houseplants, except when you are around to
supervise, deals with this problem. Another option is to move the houseplants into an inaccessible
room, or to place decorative pebbles or rocks over top of the soil.
Kittens may need to eliminate after they eat, after they wake up and after play. At those times, you
might place the kitten in its litterbox and, if it eliminates, praise the kitten or give a treat. A kitten does
not need to be confined continuously, but should be supervised to prevent accidents and frequently
brought back to the appropriate elimination location. If you place a little urine or stool from a previous
elimination in the box, its odor should help to attract the cat back to the box. If the kitten soils in a
location other than its box on the first attempt, clean up the area thoroughly using a product that is
designed to neutralize cat urine odor, and perhaps move a small amount of the stool or a few drops of
the urine to the box to attract the cat to that area. If there is more than one cat in the home, at least
one more litter box should be added (see below). By confining the kitten to an area with its own box, the
kitten can establish regular litter habits without competition or threats from the other cats. This also
provides for a more gradual and cautious introduction of the kittens to the other cats.
What type of litter material should I use?
There are many types of litter materials available today. These include clay litter, fine "clumping" litter,
plastic pearls, silica, recycled newspapers, wood shavings and many others. Some have materials added
to control odor. Some studies have found that clumping litter may be preferable to more cats, and that
scented litter is aversive to some cats. Since learn the appropriate places to eliminate by following the
cues of the queen, it may be helpful to continue using the same litter as used in the first home. Although
the type you choose is up to you, you might wish to seek guidance as to which litter types are safest if
you have a kitten that tends to eat litter (as some young kittens do).
What size and type of litter box should I buy?
Initially, the size of the litter box should be determined by the size of the kitten or cat. A very small
kitten may need a box with shorter (lower) sides or a ramp for easier access. As the kitten grows, a
larger box is generally more appropriate. Some owners prefer litter boxes with covers on them. This is
acceptable if it is acceptable to the cat. You need to be sure that the cat can negotiate the opening by
stepping into it and that the cat is not too large to fit into the opening. As the cat grows, ensure that the
box still accommodates the cat's needs, increasing its size if necessary.
Where should I put the litter box?
The litter box should be placed in a location that is easily accessed by the cat, yet out of the way. Try to
avoid congested household areas. The cat should have some privacy and quiet to eliminate. Laundry and
furnace rooms are often used but be sure that noise associated with household machinery is not
disruptive and aversive to your cat. Also make sure that the cat does not get locked out of the room at a
time when it may have to eliminate. Try to put the litter box in an area that is convenient for you to
check on and keep clean. Do not put food and water bowls immediately next to the litter box. If there
are dogs in the home, then the litter box should be located where the cat can eliminate without being
bothered by them.
How often should I clean the litter box?
One of the most important factors in ensuring continued litter box usage by house cats is cleanliness.
Cats are very fastidious animals, and spend time each day making sure their coat, feet and face are
clean. One can assume that they would like a clean place to eliminate. The number of cats in the home
and litter usage determines the time between litter cleaning. Fecal material should be removed after
each bowel movement, if possible, and the box should be cleaned or scooped of urine wastes on a daily
basis, regardless of the type of litter material. Litter should be changed weekly.
Some clumping litters form fairly hard clumps that are easy to scoop in their entirety and leave little
residue behind. If you use one of these types of litter, you may only need to change the litter every few
weeks; however remember to refill the litter to maintain sufficient depth after each scooping.
Remember that each cat is an individual. Your cat may like more frequent cleaning of the litter box to
maintain good usage patterns. Some cats dislike the odor of the cleansers used to clean litter boxes, so
rinse the box thoroughly after each cleaning. A number of products are self-cleaning and this can be
particularly appealing to some cats. However, some cats might be frightened of the motors and cleaning
mechanisms in self-cleaning litter boxes.
How many litter boxes do I need in my home?
The number of litter boxes needed depends on the number of cats, the size of the home, the
temperament of the cats, and whether there are other pets in the home. When there are multiple cats,
multiple pans should be available in different locations, not all side-by-side in one place. Because there
can be varied interactions between individuals, multiple boxes in multiple locations allow housemates to
avoid one another if they so choose. Even for only one cat, two boxes may be appropriate depending on
the layout of the home and the individual preferences of the cat. Some cats prefer one box for urine and
one for stool. Older cats may have physical limitations that prevent them from climbing stairs easily and
so a box in the location the cat frequents is needed. In general, there should be at least one litter box
per cat; however, if soiling problems arise, most behaviorists advise one more box than the number of
cats in the house (i.e. if there are 2 cats, have 3 boxes).
What if the kitten does not use its litter box?
Should the kitten begin to eliminate in locations other than its litter box, first review the steps above. Is
the litter in an area that is appealing and easily accessed by the cat? Is the litter box being cleaned often
enough? Are there enough litter boxes for the number of cats? Try and determine what is so appealing
to your cat about the area that your cat is soiling. And, perhaps most importantly, is there anything
about the area, box or litter that might be preventing its use (or scaring your cat)?
To determine the most appealing litter for your cat, offer two or more different litters in the same type
of box, side-by-side and see which one, if any, the cat uses most frequently. Next, determine the type of
litter box the cat prefers by offering two or more litter box types side-by-side (each with the preferred
type of litter). You can determine the cat's preferred location by offering the preferred litter box with
the preferred litter in two or more locations and determining which one, if any, the cat uses more
frequently. If litter box problems persist, then additional guidance and perhaps a behavior consultation
might be required. If the cat lifts its tail and sprays urine onto vertical objects, then this is a marking
behavior and would indicate that its time to consider neutering (if your cat is an intact male) or that an
anxiety or territorial problem is emerging and professional guidance should be sought.
Debra Horwitz, DVM, Diplomate ACVB & Gary Landsberg, DVM, Diplomate ACVB
© Copyright 2009 Lifelearn Inc. Used and/or modified with permission under license.
Socializing Your Kitten
What is socialization?
Socialization is the process during which the kitten develops relationships with other living beings in its
environment.
What is habituation?
As cats develop, there are numerous stimuli (sounds, smells, sights and events) that, when they are
unfamiliar, can lead to fear and anxiety. Habituation is the process of getting used to and not reacting to
those stimuli by continuous exposure under circumstances that have no untoward consequences.
What is localization?
Localization is the process during which the kitten develops attachment to particular places.
Why are these terms important?
Cats that receive insufficient exposure and contact with people, other animals and new environments
during their first two months may develop irreversible fears, leading to timidity or aggression. Expose
your kitten to as many stimuli (people, places and things), when they can most effectively socialize,
localize, and habituate to these stimuli. The first 1 to 3 months of life are the most critical periods in the
social development of the cat.
Are cats a social species?
While they are fairly independent and can do well on their own, cats are quite social. Although feline
social behavior has not been as extensively studied as for the dog, the domestic cat is much more social
than has been traditionally reported. There are many situations where cats live together in groups and
interact in a friendly manner. The composition of these groups differs from dog groupings. Usually they
consist of mothers, daughters, aunts and grandmothers; female cats that are related. In large colonies,
there may be many smaller related groups sharing the same space. Male cats will leave the group, but
return for breeding. Males that have been neutered join the group in much the same way as females.
Colonies of feral (wild) cats will be found in areas where food is abundant and shared, such as barns,
dumpsites or around fishing ports. The cats in the group will allogroom (lick each other) and allomark
(rub against each other). They will share the raising of kittens, fostering others from different litters.
Do cats have "personalities"?
Research has shown that it may be possible to classify cat "personalities" similar to what has been done
for dogs. One such study identified cats that were shy, timid or fearful and those that were confident.
The timid cats took significantly longer to approach persons and be held by them. Another study
identified cats that were "shy" and those that were "trusting". That research noted that trusting cats
were trusting regardless of where they encountered people, while shy cats were more fearful the
further from home they were encountered. Based on these and other studies there are two common
personality types: (a) sociable, confident and easygoing; (b) timid, shy and unfriendly. Some other
research has also indicated an active aggressive type as well.
What influences the development of personality type?
Studies have confirmed that, not only is personality inherited from the mother, but also that friendliness
is, in part, inherited from the father.
How does the mother cat (or queen) teach her kittens?
Cats are very good at observational learning. This occurs when an animal watches a behavior being
performed by another. The queen starts to teach her kittens at a young age. From the queen, kittens
learn elimination behaviors and predatory behavior. Kittens will begin to spend time in the litter box at
about 30 days of age and will learn appropriate litter usage through observation of the queen and
certain olfactory (smell) cues. If allowed access to prey, the queen will begin to bring them to her
offspring at about 32 - 36 days of age and teach them to hunt. The kittens will begin to be weaned and
eat solid food at the same age. The choice of food is influenced by the queen. Play between kittens is an
important part of social development, particularly for those kittens that will be housed with other cats
later in life.
What can I do to improve my chances of having a social non-fearful cat?
Selection: The genetics of an individual cat plays a critical role in how sociable, playful, fearful, excitable,
or domineering a kitten will become. The first issue in helping to ensure that a kitten will be friendly and
social when it grows up is to choose an appropriate kitten for your family. Since cats have a variety of
personality types, the question is whether these personality types can be determined at the time of
selection. As kitten socialization begins to decline at about 7 weeks of age, selection testing may become
increasingly more accurate after this age. Therefore assessing older kittens and adult cats may provide
more accurate information. The behavior of the parents, especially the father, as well as the behavior of
any offspring from previous litters may be of even greater value at predicting adult behavior.
Assessment of young kittens is likely of limited value if the kittens are still progressing through the
primary socialization period, and the assessment of the parents may provide just as much information.
Early handling: Kittens that are stimulated and handled from birth are more confident, more social,
more exploratory, faster to mature and are better able to handle stress as they develop. Early handling
of kittens decreases their approach time to strangers and increases the amount of time that they stayed
with them. The more handling the better; but even 15 minutes a day will help to improve later behavior.
Regular and frequent handling from birth increases the likelihood that the kitten will relate well to
people when placed into a home after weaning at 6 to 9 weeks of age. Therefore, kittens obtained from
a breeder or home where they have had frequent contact and interaction with the owners are likely to
be more social and less fearful as they develop.
To summarize, the two most important factors in how social a cat becomes with people are its genetic
personality, and the amount of socialization it receives during the sensitive period of socialization which
is thought to be 3 - 7 weeks of age. Certainly, the greater exposure a kitten has to humans of all ages,
other pets and novel situations, the better adjusted that kitten will be. Therefore the best options may
be to obtain a kitten from a home where good socialization has already taken place, or to obtain a new
kitten prior to 7 weeks of age and ensure immediate socialization.
How can I assist my new kitten's socialization?
Introduce your kitten to many new people and situations as possible. If the kitten is meeting a person or
other pet for the first time and remains playful and inquisitive be certain to encourage and reinforce the
kitten for its actions, and repeat the exposure regularly with a variety of similar stimuli. If however the
kitten is fearful or withdrawn, a more gradual introduction while pairing favored treats and play with
each exposure may improve the relationship fairly quickly. Be certain that the stimulus moves slowly so
as not to startle the kitten. Strangers may be able to offer treats or stimulate play using a favored chase
toy. However, when introducing a kitten to other animals, the other animal should be well restrained
and calm so that the kitten's fear is not enhanced, and it can be motivated to take the treats and food
for the owner. There may be a great deal of individual variation, with some cats quickly adapting to new
people and other pets, and others requiring a very gradual program of desensitization and
counterconditioning.
In order for the kitten to develop and maintain good social skills with other cats it would be advisable to
introduce the kitten into a home with other cats, or to consider obtaining more than one kitten. A lack
of ongoing and regular social interactions with other cats may make it difficult to introduce your cat to
other cats later in life. In addition, cats that lack other cats as playmates may target the owners as
substitute playmates for swatting, chasing, pouncing, and biting.
How best should I introduce my new kitten to my home?
Your interaction with your new kitten begins on the ride home. Cats should always be transported in
some kind of carrier in the car. By teaching your kitten to ride in a confined location you are providing
safety for your cat in future car rides. Upon arriving at home, place the kitten in a small, quiet area with
food and a litter box. If the kitten is very tiny, a small litter box with lowered sides may be necessary at
first. If possible, duplicate the type of litter material used in the previous home Before putting your new
kitten into any new location, it is important to inspect it for nooks and crannies where a kitten might
hide or get stuck. Often in a new environment, a kitten may look for a secluded place to hide. However,
all kittens and cats will eventually need to investigate their new surroundings. For a new kitten this is a
more manageable task if you limit space available and initially supervise the kitten. When cats do
investigate they use a random method of search. After your new kitten has had some quiet time in a
restricted location, slowly allow access to other areas of the home.
Kittens are natural explorers and will use their claws to climb up onto anything possible. In the first few
weeks, slow and limited access to the home will allow exploration as well as giving you the ability to
monitor the kitten's behavior. Monitor for any stimuli, rooms or areas that seem to frighten the cat, and
use favored treats and play to encourage further exposure.
Debra Horwitz, DVM, Diplomate ACVB & Gary Landsberg, DVM, Diplomate ACVB
© Copyright 2009 Lifelearn Inc. Used and/or modified with permission under license.
Furniture Scratching
Scratching with the front claws is a normal, instinctive behavior for cats. The purpose of this activity is
thought to be threefold – scratching is a way of marking territory, conditioning the claws by removing
worn nail fragments, and some cats are suspected of scratching in order to display excitement when
interacting with their owner. Your cats natural scratching behavior becomes a problem when it occurs in
an inappropriate location in your home, resulting in a costly, destructive and intolerable habit for your
housecat.
Regardless of what measures you take, you will never prevent your cat from scratching so you must
control WHERE your cat exhibits this instinctive behavior. Redirecting your cats scratching habits to an
acceptable object such as a scratching post takes a little human ingenuity and a lot of patience, but once
you have the task completed, you can enjoy your cats company and your furniture for years to come!
Fortunately, furniture scratching is a well-documented problem and veterinarians who specialize in
animal behavior have outlined several approaches to prevent the development of this behavior and to
correct furniture scratching if it is already a problem with your cat. To prevent and correct inappropriate
scratching by your cat you must approach the problem from two angles. First, you must discourage
scratching when it occurs in undesirable locations in your home and second, you must provide a suitable
alternate location for your cat to carry out its natural scratching behavior. Discouraging undesirable
scratching can be accomplished by one or a combination of the following suggestions:
New Kittens
Place a scratching post in the kittens sleeping and playing area and encourage your kitten to “play” on
the scratching post by leaving a favorite toy on top of the post. If your kitten is at least 8 weeks of age,
you can try placing a small amount of catnip on the scratching post every once and a while. Your kitten
should not be left unsupervised in the living room or other areas of your home with carpet and furniture
until the kitten develops a scratching routine using the scratching post.
If You Have An Older Cat With A Well Established Scratching Problem
Remove the object being scratched from the room and place a scratching post in the same position.
Cover the object being scratched with plastic, foil, clear packing tape, double sided tape or any other
surface which your cat shows an aversion to. Place the scratching post beside the object to encourage
its use.
Use a water gun or spray bottle to spray your cat from a distance whenever you catch your pet
scratching an undesired object. It is very important that you are several meters away from your cat,
otherwise your cat will associate you with the water and avoid you, not the object.
Use a product which smells bad to your cat. Develop a smell aversion by spraying the product directly in
front of your cats nose (do not spray on the cat). When your cat leaves the room, spray the product onto
your furniture and onto any other scratching problem areas.
When your cat is left unsupervised, be sure it is in a room where scratching is not a problem. Place a
scratching post with your cat.
Trim your cats nails weekly to reduce the damage that occurs when they do scratch. Trimming nails does
not reduce a cats desire to scratch and should always be used in combination with other techniques.
Trimming your cats nails will not reduce its ability to defend itself or to climb, and they are soon resharpened by scratching behavior.
Ask your veterinarian about a product called Soft Paws (www.softpaws.com) which are a plastic sheath
that covers the nails to protect your furniture.
Providing a Suitable Scratching Post
Providing a suitable alternative for scratching is a very important component in preventing and
correcting scratching behavior. Your cats scratching post can be a commercial scratching post of station,
or a simple home construction. A plain or carpet covered 4’x4’, a log, a cardboard creation or any
acceptable surface that your cat has shown a preference for can be used. A favorite toy placed or
suspended from the scratching post and/or a little catnip may be all your cat needs to entice it to use
the scratching post.
Feeding Your Kitten
Start healthy feeding habits as soon as your kitten arrives! Excellent nutrition will influence your kitten’s
health status, development, appearance and attitude. How you feed your kitten will also help prevent
excess weight gain during the growth stage and help reduce the likelihood of obesity as your kitten
matures. Nutritional excellence is a key component of wellness medicine, where the goal is to prevent
rather than treat health problems later in life. The following tips will get you off to a good start.
Choose your kitten’s diet carefully
There is excessive and confusing information in the market regarding kitten foods. The old adage “you
get what you pay for” applies particularly well to pet foods. We encourage you not to compare foods by
the “Guaranteed Analysis” on the label. This is based on a chemical analysis only and measures gross
quantities of ingredient classes – it tells you nothing about the quality or digestibility of the ingredients.
Highly digestible kitten food means you feed less.
You should expect to pay from $0.25 - $1.00/day to feed your kitten (depending on canned and dry
proportions). Be sure to feed your kitten a diet that has successfully completed an AAFCO growth trial.
Benefits of excellent nutrition
Feline Development Formula provides your kitten with exceptional nutritional quality. While eating this
diet, we expect your kitten to have a luxurious, shiny coat, to be bright and lively, have strong healthy
teeth and gums, and make small, well-formed stools. Superior nutrition helps kittens build bone,
muscle, tissue, and boosts their immune system to help fight disease.
Feed your kitten as an individual
Feed your kitten frequent, small meals if possible. Your kitten has a small stomach and high energy
needs. You can leave small quantities of dry food out constantly and let your kitten “nibble on the
kibble” as desired. Monitor your kitten’s weight/appearance. You should see a lean, well-conditioned
body and be able to feel, but not see its ribs. Adjustments in the amount of food left out may be
necessary to prevent your kitten from becoming overweight, particularly between 4 and 9 months of
age.
Avoid feeding your kitten “human food”
Establishing right from the start that “human food” is off-limits will reduce begging and an increased risk
of obesity. It also minimizes the chance of cats becoming very picky eaters. If you must feed some
human food, stick to small amounts of cooked lean meat and always put them in your kitten’s bowl.
Never feed your kitten from the counter or table.
Feed some canned food
While you may prefer to feed your kitten dry food, you should always introduce some canned food
(even just a tablespoon a day). Cats are very sensitive to the “mouth feel” of the foods they eat. As cats
age, they sometimes develop medical conditions that are better managed by increasing their water
intake. Feeding canned food is the best way to do this. Cats that have never been exposed to canned
foods as kittens often refuse to eat them later in life, when they may be extremely beneficial.
Where to feed your kitten
Feed your kitten in a quiet place. This helps establish consistency, reduces excitement around a meal
and helps reduce the incidence of stomach upset. Ensure that the feeding area is not in close proximity
to the litter box - it may interfere with litter box training.
Measure the food, and feed in your kitten’s own bowl
Always measure your kitten’s food so that you can make appropriate adjustments as necessary
depending on your kitten’s body condition. If you have other cats in your home, feed your kitten
separately, from its own bowl. Kitten foods are formulated to be optimum for growing kittens - you do
not want your adult cats eating kitten food, and vice versa. Dry diets can be moistened to soften them
for very young kittens.
Change diets slowly
If you are changing your kitten’s diet, gradually introduce the new diet over 7-10 days. Mix a small
amount (1/4 of ration) with the previous diet for the first day or two. Then increase the portion of the
new diet over the next week, until your kitten is only eating the new diet. This will reduce the likelihood
of vomiting and diarrhea. Your kitten should make formed stools that are easy to scoop up. Please
inform us if this is not the case.
Milk
Cow’s milk is not recommended for kittens. In fact, many kittens cannot digest milk and may develop
diarrhea, as a result. All your kitten needs to drink is fresh, clean water.
Treats
More and more of us are enjoying the use of treats to socialize, train and just plain love our kittens. Ask
us about healthy, low calorie treats for your kitten. Treats can be moistened to soften them for very
young kittens.
How long to feed kitten food
Your kitten should be fed kitten food exclusively until 9 to 12 months of age. This will help optimize
bone and soft tissue development. Adult cat foods are often more urine acidifying and restricted in
minerals – this could interfere with optimum bone development in growing kittens. Medi-Cal® Feline
Development Formula is an excellent diet for growing kittens of all breeds and sizes.
Why We Feel Confident In The Food Products We Provide
1.The foods we provide are made at their own production centers, no other brands of food are
manufactured there.
2.They source their ingredients as locally as possible and have rigorous contracts with these sources to
ensure consistent and quality supply.
3.The production centers have state of the art equipment which screens incoming ingredients for
contamination and also assesses nutritional breakdown. If a truck-load of incoming ingredients does not
pass the multiple tests, it is turned away.
4.Only slaughtered, human grade animals are used in their diets. There are NO “already dead” animals
rendered and used for these diets.
5.These food production centers are spotless and meet rigorous health inspections. The employees are
all pet owners themselves.
6.They do beneficial food trials with animals to research the nutritional and health benefits their food
provides. They maintain their animals in “natural” settings or use their own pets and data from outside
hospitals. They do NOT do invasive or terminal experiments.
7.Diet pricing does fluctuate as cost of the ingredients fluctuate. These companies refuse to source
cheaper, lower quality ingredients or change their formulations to fool clients in order to keep their
pricing low.
8.They strive towards international accreditation for environmental standards.
9.They guarantee all of their diets 100%. Not only for quality but for palatability as well.
10.They have technical support staff made up of veterinarians and veterinary specialists who can answer
any questions and will review your pets medical cases to ensure they are getting the appropriate
nutrition.
Important Questions to Ask Your Pet Food Company
• Where do the products in their pet foods come from?
• Are any of the ingredients in their pet foods imported from china? If not where do they source their
ascorbic acid? (vitamin C)
• Do they have their own manufacturing plant or does another company produce the food for them?
• Do they have quality controls to test the ingredients? The final product? If so what testing measures
are they?
• Do they do testing on animals? If so, where, how, and what type of testing?
• Are any of these tests invasive or terminal?
• Are the meat sources slaughtered only? Or can “already dead” animals be rendered for the product?
Permanent Identification
Tattoos
British Columbia has a Province-wide tattoo identification program. Animals are tattooed in the right ear
with a code specific to the veterinary hospital where the tattoo was done. If your pet is lost, and ends up
at a shelter or another veterinary clinic, the staff there will be able to tell where your pet was tattooed.
They will contact that clinic to get your contact information. Tattooing requires a general anesthetic, and
is generally done at the same time that your pet is spayed or neutered. If you adopt an older pet that
does not have a tattoo, veterinarians generally suggest that you have a tattoo done the first time your
pet is given a general anesthetic (such as during a dental cleaning.)
Microchips
Microchips are another form of permanent identification. A small microchip is injected under the skin of
your pet. A document is sent to the microchip company with your contact information, and information
about your pet (such as name, breed, colour, medical information, etc.) The microchip can be read with
a special scanner.
Your pet will also receive a collar tag to wear that indicates that he or she has a microchip. If a clinic or
shelter does not have a microchip scanner, they will be able to give the microchip company the number
on your pet’s tag in order to get in contact with you.
Microchip implantation does not require an anesthetic, and can be implanted in a veterinarian’s office.
Does my pet need permanent identification?
We recommend that all dogs and cats have a tattoo or microchip.
No one plans on their pet going missing. Having a tattoo or microchip greatly increases the chance that
you and your pet will be reunited.
Very often we hear that a pet doesn’t need a tattoo or microchip because he or she never goes outside.
Very often, “indoor only” pets do go missing. These pets tend to panic, as they’re not used to being
outside and they become frightened. The can tend to bolt from anything that scares them; loud noises,
cars, strangers, and other animals.
Collars and tags are a good form of identification, but they can break off. This is why we recommend
collars and/or tags as well as a permanent form (tattoo/microchip) of identification for ALL pets.
What about breeder tattoos?
Sometimes, purebred animals are tattooed by the breeder. Quite often, these tattoos are put in the
groin. As the dog grows, the skin stretches and the tattoo may become unreadable. Also, on dogs with
thick fur, the tattoo may not be visible under the fur.
If your dog has a tattoo from the breeder, it’s important to make sure that your information is given to
the Canadian Kennel Club (CKC) after you purchase the dog.
Keeping your information up to date
Once your pet has a tattoo or microchip, it’s important to ensure that the veterinary clinic that tattooed
your pet and/or the microchip company has your updated contact information. If you move or change
your phone number, remember to call your veterinary clinic to update your information.
If you have any questions about permanent identification, please feel free to give the clinic a call. One of
our staff members will be pleased to assist you.