YEAR 20 N. 87/88 - JULY/AUGUST 2015
WINE
T R AV E L
FOOD
E
PR
®
EW
VI
• THE GRAVNER VISION
• LOMBARDY BEST WINE BUYS
• CAGLIARI HOTSPOT
www.gamberorosso.it
TOKYO CHALLENGE
RICCARDO FANUCCI
a tavola
28
COVER STORY
28 | Riccardo Fanucci; a Roman in Tokyo
The Gambero Rosso Academy takes on Tokyo with
classes, events, show-cooking. A young chef comments
on the great experience
WINE
32 | The Gravner Vision
The greatest grapegrower in the world,” according to
Luigi Veronelli, explains his philosophy of wine and life
38 | Best Buys: Lombardy
Next door to Expo 2015, top wines under 10€
july - august
2015
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JULY - AUGUST 2015
32
44
“In Italy, they add work
and life on to
food and wine.”
Robin Leach
51
38
FOOD
NEWS & MORE
51 | Chefs share their recipes. Antonia Klugmann - My
own Friuli
One of the few women chefs in Italy prepares a creative
menu where ideas, thoughts and personal feelings come
together with her territory
4 | Editorials
6 | News
11 | Events/Gambero Rosso Experience in Tokyo
16 | Street Food/Florence
18 | Wine of the month
20 | Twitter dixit
21 | Italians abroad/Simone Tondo in Paris
22 | 3Bicchieri3Forchette/Rudy Travagli
24 | Food&Design/Alice Schillaci
26 | Pairing Lab/Japanese food & Italian wines
58 | Letter from Paris
TRAVEL
44 | Cagliari Hotspot. Sardinian identity at the table and
within the city walls
This growing Sardinian city balances modern verve
with millennia of history
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EDITORIAL
TIME IS THE
INGREDIENT
are long, very long. His
evolution took him
through stainless steel
(“My youthful sin”) and
he was among the first
in Italy to use barriques.
He pioneered the adoption of amphorae (“an
amplifier of wine”). The
next step will be pressing
grapes with their stems. But
time matters in the cellar, above all:
7 years for Ribolla and 10 for Pignolo, a choice mulled over in
the course of 30 years of
work. In the pages ahead,
we invite you to read
about a new book dedicated to him and his
story. And I almost
forgot. Ribolla 2007 is
a wine that gives the
word ‘extraordinary’ its
true meaning, a concentrate
of complexity and expressive naturalness: I can already tell you that it has
been awarded Tre Bicchieri in our Vini
d’Italia 2016 Guide.
Visiting Joško Gravner in
his essential, spartan
winery near the Sacrario
in Oslavia – there where
Italy meets Slovenia – is
an intense emotional experience. We sip from
wide-mouthed
crystal
glasses that he designed,
and as I enjoy an astonishing
bit of salami and a flash of his
smile, I’m soon overwhelmed by
his solid thinking, the power and
lucidity of his explanations.
His work is the result of a
process that is both human
and technical, but also intellectual, a production
philosophy that reflects
a way of being in the
world. Joško Gravner is
his wine, and his wine is
Joško Gravner – the coherence of ideas and actions. The word ‘time’ is a constant. “Time is
a tool. What flavor can you expect from
a grape harvested at the beginning of
August?” He harvests always – and only
– after the middle of October, barely a
bunch of grapes per vine. Macerations
Lorenzo Ruggeri
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JULY - AUGUST 2015
trebicchieri
2015
Special edition Milano expo 2015
10 taStinG eventS inSide Milano expo
at the Italian Wine Pavilion curated by Fiera Verona Vinitaly
>
the events, dedicated exclusively to wines awarded Tre Bicchieri in the Vini
d’Italia 2015 guide, will take place in the pavilion tasting room: 10 guided tastings
(in italian and english) led by expert wine journalists from Gambero Rosso
expert
aUGUSt
saturday 8
friday 28
<
room
17:30-19:00 Lorenzo Ruggeri
17:30-19.00 Eleonora Guerini
Convivium
Convivium
SepteMBeR
saturday 12 20:00-21:30 Marco Sabellico
friday 25
17:30-19.00 Gianni Fabrizio
SympoSium
Convivium
octoBeR
thursday 15
thursday 29
SympoSium
Convivium
17:30-19.00 Eleonora Guerini
17:30-19.00 Gianni Fabrizio
www.gamberorosso.it
NEWS
CHAMPAGNE & BURGUNDY ON WORLD
HERITAGE LIST. French vs Italian wine: tie score
The wine worlds of France and Italy are competing for UNESCO
recognition.The friendly tug of war began in 1999, with the listing
of France’s Saint Emilion (to which was added, but only from an
urbanistic point of view, the historic center of Bordeaux). Then,
last year, the Langhe, Roero and Monferrato zones were Italy’s answer, and, in less than a year, the prized nomination was doubled
with Pantelleria’s alberello grape vines added to the Heritage category. That was the first time that an agricultural practice made it
on to the UNESCO list. And now, the recognition of Champagne
and Burgundy evens the score. Session 39 of the World Heritage
Committee unanimously recognized Champagne Hillsides, Houses and Cellars for their exceptional universal value, “very specialized artisan activity that has become an agro-industrial enterprise.”
The committee also recognized the 1,247 Climats, (a sort of cru)
terroirs of Burgundy. The rise of the Champagne region began,
according to history (or legend) in the 17th century with the Benedictine monk, Dom Pierre Perignon, who developed the process
we now call méthode champenoise. In the three centuries since
that discovery, the region has learned how to export the cultural, historic, and productive qualities now seen as a universal patrimony. Pierre Cheval, president of the Association des Paysages du Champagne is satisfied. “Our inclusion on
the list is a recognition, but it is also a responsibility towards the other nations, and we must rise to the occasion.” As for
Burgundy, the international organization will concern itself with the vineyards of Nuits and Beaune on the hills south
of Dijon. UNESCO recognition is particularly aimed at protecting the terroir belonging to some of the most evocative
names of French viticulture, such as Romanée-Conti, Clos de Vougeot, Chambertin.
Greece. RETSINA IN A TIME
OF CRISIS
Usually a white, occasionally a rosé, Retsina is a wine to which Aleppo
pine resin is added at the start of fermentation. In ancient Greek
times, resin was used to seal amphorae, and later as a protection
against oxidation. Today it is only an aromatic addition. In the early
20th century, Retsina made from the saviatano grape could be found
only in Attica, the region around Athens rich in vineyards and pine
trees, and it was served out of barrels in the city’s taverns. Since the
1960s and the bottling of wines, retsina was available all around the
country. But by the 1970s, most of the vineyards of Attica had disappeared, and the city of Athens itself had changed. Retsina consumption dropped sharply. Today, especially with the rebirth of Greek
enology, Retsina is mostly for tourists looking for local color and
folklore. Among the best versions is the elegant and refreshing Ritinitis Nobilis made by Gaia Wines from roditis grapes grown around
Corinth. Another version is from the Tetramythos Winery, made by
enologist Panagiotis Papagiannoupoulos from roditis grapes grown
organically at an altitude of 750-1000 meters above sea level. His
wine ferments with resin in amphorae from Crete. Retsina pairs well
with fried vegetables, stuffed tomatoes and the classic mezedes antipasto of feta cheese, oregano and black olives.
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POWDERED MILK, YES OR NO?
The EU vs the Italian law that protects national
cheese quality. Who will prevail?
Brussels has issued yet another blow to the Italian food
sector. This time, the battle is over cheese. Italy holds a
position of unequaled quality in this area, thanks also
to strict national laws which, since 1974, have forbidden the use of powdered or concentrated milk in dairy
production. This regulation protects the entire Made
in Italy sector. But the European Commission is not
in agreement, and, in the name of the free circulation of goods, has required Italy to accept powdered
milk among its permitted ingredients. The result is that
cheese made from not-milk could soon find its way to
Italian tables, opening the national market to a multitude of potential competition from abroad, where the
practice is already acceptable. The entire cheese production line is at risk, starting with mozzarella made
from cow’s milk, which is often produced with milk
preparations coming from Germany, Poland and Lithuania, and now further threatened by Brussels’ pronouncement. The provision could also seriously damage Italian farmers, who will suddenly find themselves
in competition with cheap, poor quality powdered and
concentrated milk coming into the country from other
European nations.
A return to the soil.
AGRICULTURE’S APPEAL.
The data from 2014 inspired hope. In the first trimester of
the new year, encouraging numbers confirmed the upward
trend in the entire agriculture sector, despite problems tied
to climate change, epidemics and international politics. Although service and industrial sectors are still suffering, agriculture is moving ahead, multiplying the employment opportunities in the area. Of the 133,000 new hires in Italy in
the first trimester of 2015, 45,000 found work in agriculture,
both in the north, where growth was more significant, and
in the south, in both autonomous and subordinate positions.
Among the new employees were many foreigners, both from
inside and outside the European Union, amounting to 36%
of the total. Central Italy, on the other hand, is still behind in
terms of productivity and employment. The surprise, however, came from exports. A few more data will help convey
the importance of this success. Agricultural exports are up
7.8%. Industrial food products that bring Made in Italy food
to the rest of the world are up 5.8%. Overall, the food sector
showed an increase double that of other Italian exports.
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JULY - AUGUST 2015
NEWS
THE BREAD OF THE FUTURE.
How global warming changes wheat
Greenhouse gases, carbon dioxide and global warming are three topics much-discussed over the last ten years. But could
these climate threats influence what we eat? Researchers have begun studying one of the oldest foods, bread. An Australian government-sponsored group led by Dr. Glenn Fitzgerald, professor at the University of Melbourne, carried out a
study on the ratio of different types of proteins in wheat, and the effects that climate change can have on plants. According to their results, by 2050, the amount of protein in wheat will be reduced, making for smaller, less elastic loaves. Flour
will contain less protein. The bread of 2050 was grown in Agface, an area where conditions foreseen for the future were
artificially created, duplicating the carbon dioxide concentration expected in 35 years. The bread was not tasted, but consistency and size were measured.
Loaves were distinctly smaller
than standard. More CO2 and
less protein, but more wheat
fields are predicted. “There are
positive aspects that we are trying to emphasize,” Fitzgerald
explained. Although carbon dioxide reduces wheat protein, rendering the dough less elastic, it
also makes the plant grow faster.
“When the carbon dioxide in the
atmosphere increases, the level of
nitrogen in the plant decreases,”
he says, and this factor influences
the structure of the plant. “We
still have time,” Dr. Fitzgerald
told the Telegraph. Researchers are examining grain types to
see if they can develop a variety
resistant to high levels of carbon
dioxide in the atmosphere.
LONDON’S BLOBFISH BAR hosting the sea’s ugliest fish
Officially, it is “Psychrolutes marcidus”, but to its friends, it is known as blobfish. A gelatinous, rose-colored mass with
a thick head and big eyes, blobfish was voted the ugliest fish in the world two years ago. After “Lady Dinah’s Cat
Emporium”, “Annie the Owl” and “Scooby’s Boutique Coffee Bar”, all animal-themed bars, London now will have
a place dedicated to blobfish. The opening is set for the summer of 2016
although the address has not been announced. The stars of the show will
be Barry, Lorcan and Lady Swift, three blobfish from the deep oceans near
Australia. The news comes from a dedicated web site, but updates can also
be found following Lorcan the Blobfish on Twitter. For now, we know that
the fish will be visible in a pressurized aquarium. The bar menu will provide
light lunches and more serious dinners, with gourmet evenings, organized
weekly, serving eight fish-based courses. Besides being officially the ugliest
fish in the world, the blob is also at risk of extinction and accustomed to life in
very special conditions in the depths of the ocean. Questions about the safety
and well-being of the creatures arise naturally: how can these conditions be
recreated in a London bar? Answers on the site are vague. According to its
owner, the aquarium-bar project emerged from collaboration with marine
biologists, but no research or study center is cited.
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JULY - AUGUST 2015
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2015/2016
worldtour
Vini d’Italia
trebicchieri
2015
OCTOBER
28 october
SEOUL
Roadshow
tour 2015/2016
2016
MaRCH
jaNuaRy
january
MUNICH
DüSSELDORF
SPECIAL EVENT
Vini d’Italia guide
PRESENTATION
30 october
OSLO
trebicchieri
STOCKHOLM
NOVEMBER
Vini d’Italia
TOKYO
2 november
SHANGHAI
trebicchieri
4 november
HONG KONG
trebicchieri
19 november
MOSCOW
trebicchieri
30 november
ZüRICH
Vini d’Italia
DECEMBER
2 december
WARSAW
Vini d’Italia
12 march
Vini d’Italia
trebicchieri
march
21 SYDNEY
trebicchieri
march
23 MELbOURNE
FEBRuaRy
trebicchieri
4 february
aPRIL
CHICAGO
4 april
trebicchieri
SAO PAULO
9 february
Roadshow
NEW YORK
trebicchieri
May
11 february
SINGAPORE
16 may
SAN FRANCISCO
trebicchieri
15 february
SEATTLE
Roadshow
Roadshow
18 may
bANGKOK
Roadshow
20 may
MANILA
Roadshow
INFO: [email protected]
10
INFO: [email protected]
JULY - AUGUST 2015
may
TOKYO
may
bEIJING
SPECIAL EVENT
Vini d’Italia guide
PRESENTATION
juNE
june
VANCOUVER
trebicchieri
june
TORONTO
trebicchieri
june
MOSCOW
SPECIAL EVENT
Vini d’Italia guide
PRESENTATION
EVENTS
by Lorenzo Ruggeri
photos by Andrea Ruggeri
THE TOKYO EXPERIENCE
After Moscow, the Gambero Rosso
Experience moved on to Tokyo. Four days
– from July 3 through 6 – of seminars,
tastings and pairings were entirely dedicated
to Italy’s wine and food culture. On the front
lines, producers dealt with probing questions
and the desire for knowledge on the part
of Japanese consumers and journalists.
The Tokyo public enjoys understanding the
history of each product, and is attentive to
every detail, notably interested in trying new
flavors. Familiarity with Italian and other
European products is more widespread in
Japan than in any other Asian country, the
fruit of experiences while traveling in Italy:
every year, over 500,000 Japanese visit.
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JULY - AUGUST 2015
EVENTS
The events took place in
the new Accademia del
Gambero Rosso in the delightful Kagurazaka quarter: low buildings, relaxed
rhythms, and a myriad of
French bistros and Italian
eating places. Restaurant
names amused us: “Stagione fruttificare” (literally –
season to bear fruit – as odd
in Italian as it is in English),
“I Scampi”, and pizzeria
Margherita Pagliaccio are
a few examples. Each day
brought participants twelve
hours of guided tastings
and workshops: the aromas
of Gragnano dried pasta,
olive cultivars of Brindisi,
buffalo mozzarella from the
Salerno zone, peeled Italian tomatoes tasted just as
they were and then paired,
and even Italian liqueurs
and unusual cocktails. Wine
was an underlying theme,
linking all the experiences
together.
The four days were curated
by the Academy’s resident
chef, Riccardo Fanucci.
“For a chef, Tokyo is an
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JULY - AUGUST 2015
incredible experience in
terms of new products,
cuts of meat, cooking
methods. For Italian businesses, it’s the right place
to invest. Not only is there
financial fluidity, but
there’s also real consumer
interest and curiosity,”
he explained as he sliced
guanciale.
The representatives of the
wines of the Consorzio
Salice Salentino (Cantina
Due Palme and Vecchia
Cantina enjoyed particular success) opened the
first day’s activities. Then
came two seminars with
the award-winning wines
of the Vini d’Italia 2015
guide. The atmosphere
was attentive and rigorously silent except for a
few precise and careful
questions. White wines
appealed more than they
did a few years ago. At
the end, a closing party
featured another Made
in Italy symbol, the new
Cinquecento. Café Fiat
hosted all the producers,
over 300 people. “Promotions involving the synergy of Italian companies
from different sectors is a
winning strategy abroad,
and has still not been fully
exploited. The impact of
Italianità is powerful. The
Japanese have a crush on
us, and love everything
about us, our cooking,
our life style, our fashions. They admire quality, detail, imagination
and creativity, things they
possess themselves but express less in their firmly
stratified society,” confided Tiziana Alamprese,
Fiat Japan’s marketing
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EVENTS
manager. The Italian ambassador
in Tokyo, Domenico Giorgi, commented, between one tasting and
another, “How many Italians are
there living in the city? About 2,000
registered, but around the country
there are 90,000 restaurants inspired by cucina italiana. Tourism is
the key element leading to familiarity with our food. From the culinary
point of view, Japan and Italy have
many common traits: ties to their
territory, seasonality of products,
few condiments and clean flavors.
We understand each other perfectly
at that level. These similarities lead
to a great love for Italy.”
This love is reciprocated – at the
Milano Expo, the average wait to
visit the Japanese pavilion is two
hours. Taking advantage of this
moment, from July 16 -19, the
Kampai Sake Festival visited Rome
and Naples, introducing products
that have never before been imported or tasted in Italy, making
them available to all.
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JULY - AUGUST 2015
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- AUGUST
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