Features of the Coastal System
INPUTS
PROCESSES
OUTPUTS
Sediment
95% =
5% =
5% =
1. The coastal
system
 Constructive and
destructive waves,
 Tides
 Sediment sources
and cells.
Draw a sketch map showing the
sediment cells around the UK coastline
The Coastal System
Identify two sources of sediment at X
1.
2.
(a) Describe the characteristics of a
sediment cell. (4 marks)
Sediment Cell =
Sediment source =
Sediment sink =
Constructive and Destructive Waves and Tides
What are waves?
Tides =
Diagrams
Factors influencing the size and nature of waves
1.
2.
3.
Fetch =
Constructive
Diagram
Destructive
Diagram
Exam Questions
1. Describe the
characteristics of waves
shown in Photo X (3 marks)
Features
Features
2. Outline the effects of
constructive waves such as
those shown in Photo X (3
marks)
3. What are the differences
between constructive and
destructive waves? (4 marks)
What are tides? How do tides
influence the formation of coastal
features? (4 marks)
Tides are m_ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ up and down,
about t_ _ _ _ daily, of the w_ _ _ _
adjacent to the coast. They are caused by
the g______________ pull of the moon.
The active area of coastal e_ _ _ _ _ _
lies more or less within the area between
the points of lowest and highest tides
Only if the h_ _ _ tides reach the
c_ _ _ _ line the c_ _ _ _ _ will gradually
be eroded back. Between high and low tide
the main processes of transport, abrasion,
attrition, sorting, etc. by marine processes
will take place. Tides can create and shape
b_ _ _ _; b_ r _ s which are ridges of sand
at the h_ _ _ water mark and help shape
micro features such as r_ _ _ _ _ _.
2. Coastal processes – marine erosion, transportation and deposition; land-based sub-aerial weathering, mass movement and runoff
Coastal Erosion
Corrasion (abrasion) =
Sub-aerial erosion =
Rotational Slumping (draw an annotated diagram)
Hydraulic Radius =
Attrition =
Mass Movement =
Corrosion =
Scouring =
Types of weathering that affect the coast
EXAM QUESTION - Outline the role
of sub-aerial weathering in shaping
the coast. (3 marks)
Outline evidence that suggests marine erosion
is occurring along this coast. (4 marks)
EXAM QUESTION - With specific reference to a case study of coastal erosion, assess the relative importance of its physical and
socio-economic consequences. (15 marks)
Case study options = North Yorkshire coast (Whitby, Robin Hoods Bay) or Walton on the Naze or the Holderness Coast or Barton on Sea
Physical Consequences =
Socio-economic consequences =
Transportation = Longshore Drift
Diagram
Description
EXAM QUESTION - Describe processes of
transportation on a beach. (7 marks)
Remember:
> other methods of transportation: Traction, saltation,
suspension & solution
> to use diagrams to support your answer
3. Landforms of erosion: headlands and bays, blow holes, arches and stacks, cliffs and wave cut platforms
Annotate the different types of rock
Draw a diagram to show how the coastline has changed
owing to erosion to form headlands and bays
Concordant coastline =
Discordant coastline =
EXAM QUESTION
Explain the formation of headlands and bays.
(6 marks) (Refer to geology as a key factor)
How has geology influence the
shape of a Dorset coastline?
Geology map – Isle of Purbeck, Dorset
Label on the picture and define:
Cliff =
Example Exam Questions
Place different landforms in the
spaces to create your own questions
Wave cut notch =
 Picture provided - Describe the X
and explain its/their formation. (7
marks)
Wave cut platform =
 Describe and explain the
formation of landforms resulting
from erosion/deposition. (15 marks)
With reference to the photograph and using a diagram(s), describe and explain the
formation of a wave cut platform and cliffs
 Describe the characteristics of X
and explain their formation. (7
marks)
 Describe the landforms resulting
from erosion/ deposition shown in
Figure X (picture). (4 marks)
 Choose one of the landforms of
erosion shown in Figure X.
Name the landform and explain its
formation. (7 marks)
 Explain the formation of X(6
marks)
 Describe and explain the
development of X (15 marks)
 Describe the coastal landforms
and explain how marine and sub-aerial
processes have combined to produce
these landforms (7 marks)
Blowholes - A blow hole is formed when a joint between a sea cave and the land
surface above the cave becomes enlarged and air can pass through it. As water
flows into the cave, air is expelled through the pipe like joint, sometimes
producing an impressive blast of air or spray which appears to emanate from
the ground. A blowhole is formed as sea caves grow landwards and upwards
into vertical shafts and expose themselves towards the surface
Study the two photographs of the Pembrokeshire Coast
i) Label the coastal features shown
EXAM QUESTION - Describe the characteristics of
arches/stacks/stumps and explain their formation. (7
marks)
ii) Describe the coastal landforms and explain how marine and sub-aerial
processes have combined to produce these landforms (7 marks)
4. Landforms of deposition – beaches and associated features: berms, runnels and cusps, spits, bars, dunes and salt marshes
Small beach landforms
EXAM QUESTION – Explain the contrasting locations of the beach
landforms shown (7)
Beach sediment can include:
1. Clastic sediment: Comes from
weathering of rock and varies
from very small clay particles to
sand/pebbles/boulders.
2. Biogenic sediment: Skeletons
and sediments of marine
organisms.
3. Non-cohesive sediment:
Larger particles (for example,
sand) moved grain by grain.
4. Cohesive sediment: Very
small clay and mud particles that
bond together.
BEACHES
Beaches are accumulations of s_ _ _, s_ _ _ _ _ _ and m_ _
deposited by waves in the nearshore, foreshore and backshore
zone.
BEACH PROFILES
A beach profile is a c_ _ _ _ s_ _ _ _ _ _ of a
beach from the h_ _ _ w_ _ _ _ m_ _ _
(HWM) to the l_ _ w_ _ _ _ m_ _ _ (LWM).
Three of the key factors that influence beach
profiles are:
i) S_ _ _ _ _ _ _ size (grain size and
percolation rates
ii) w_ _ _ e_ _ _ _ (constructive or
destructive)
iii) Tidal range
Deposition occurs when the supply of sediment
exceeds the rate of removal. This normally
takes place in low energy, sheltered
environments. Beach profiles differ from
winter to summer as storms tend to be
frequent in the winter.
1. Draw a beach profile for a) shingle beach & b) sandy beach
2. Highlight the key differences
Swash-aligned beach =
Drift-aligned beach =
SPITS (Case study = Dawlish Warren, Devon)
BARS (Case study = Slapton Sands, Devon)
A spit is………………..
What conditions/factors are needed the formation of a spit?
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EXAM QUESTION - Describe the characteristics of spits and explain
their formation. (7 marks) (Make sure you use a diagram)
Characteristics
- remember you can comment on the length, width, material;
land use, height etc when describing the characteristics of a
landform
Why is Slapton Sands a predominantly swash-aligned
landform? Explain you answer using an annotated diagram
Sand Dune Transect/Profile
Draw a dune profile to show: the sea, strand line, embryo dunes; fore dunes; main ridge (yellow dune); fixed dunes (grey dune); dune
slacks and mature dunes/dune scrub. Annotate key features and species.
Features required for the
formation of sand dunes:
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Describe and explain the formation of a sand dune ecosystem (Psammosere)
Succession =
Pioneer species =
Xerophytic plants =
Plagioclimax =
Succession of a Salt Marsh Ecosystem (Halosere)
A marsh is a d_ _ _ area with v_ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _; salt marsh is v____________ associated with the
shallow s_ _ _ _ _ waters near the coast. A salt marsh may be defined more precisely as the
v_ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ that occurs on m_ _ _ y s_ _ r _ s between approximately mean h_ _ _ water neap and
extreme high w_ _ _ _ spring tides. A halosere is a series of communities displaying a successional
sequence where the p_ _ _ _ _ are adapted to s_ _ _ water.
The conditions needed for salt marsh development are:
i) A sea shore with very little w_ _ _ a_ _ _ _ _ so f_ _ _ p_ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ (i.e. clay) can fall out of
s_ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _
ii) S_ l_ _ _ conditions for flocculation to occur (neutralisation of clay particles so they cling together
and are deposited)
iii) S_ _ _ _ _ _ from exposure (wave action) e.g. a river estuary or behind a spit
iv) A source of m_ _
1
2
7. Stabilisation = The number of species continues to increase
as abiotic factors (n_ _ _ _ _ _ _ _, w_ _ _, pH) become more
favourable. I.e. scurvy grass and sea lavender
3. M_ _ _ _ _ _ _ develop that are e_ _ _ _ _ _
at l_ _ tide
4. Pioneer Stage = Mudflats c_ _ _ _ _ _ _ _
by p_ _ _ _ _ _ species such as c_____
g______ and g_____ w____ (halophytes)
5. Over time the s_ _ _ tolerant plants trap
more m_ _ and these spends a l_ _ _ _ _ period
of time exposed. In addition, dying p_ _ _ _ _
add h_ _ _ _ and n_ _ _ _ _ _ _ to the soil
making the conditions less h_ _ _ _ _ _.
6. Competition Stage = competition between p_
_ _ _ _ _ species which grow quickly and die
young (opportunistic species) competing with
those that may take longer to grow but are
stronger and will eventually dominate
(equilibrium species).
8. As m_ _ levels r_ _ _, complex c_ _ _ _ systems that
channel the flowing t_ _ _ _ develop.
9. Eventually the l_ _ _ r_ _ _ _ above s_ _ l_ _ _ _ and new
species such as reeds and rushes become established.
10. Climax - the final stage of development on a salt marsh is
called the climax stage. This may include t_ _ _ _ such as
a_ _ and a_ _ _ _.
Halophyte =
Climatic Climax ecosystem =
5a. Sea level change – Eustatic and Isostatic change
Sea level change over the past 20,000 years
How and why do sea levels change? (Increase in height & Decrease in height)
• Absolute change =
• Relative change =
• Glacial stage =
• Interglacial stage =
• Epeirogeny =
Define and explain the following terms:
Eustatic
changes
Glacioeustacy
Thermosteric
changes
Isostatic
changes
Glacioisostacy
Tectonic
isostacy
Exam Question - Outline the impacts of present and predicted
sea level increase (15 marks)
5b. Coastlines of submergence and emergence and associated landforms
Landforms of Submergence
Landforms of Emergence
Caused by sea levels……………………………………….
R_ _ _ or D_ _ _ _ _ _ e_ _ _ _ _ _ _ _
Caused by sea levels……………………………………….
R_ _ _ _ _ b_ _ _ _
F_ _ _ _ _
R_ _ _ _ _ s_ _ _ _ _ _ _ _
p_ _ _ _ _ _ _ _
F_ _ _ _ _
R_ _ _ _ c_ _ _ _ l_ _ _
Barrier beaches (B_ _ _ & T_ _ _ _ _ _ _)
Barrier Islands
Drowned forests
EXAM QUESTIONS
i) Explain the formation of landforms typical of coastlines of emergence. (6 marks)
ii) Explain the causes of sea level change and the formation of resultant coastal landforms. (15
marks)
NAME THE FEATURES SHOWN
LANDFORM
DIAGRAM
FORMATION – description and
explanation
6. Case study of coastal flooding – specific physical and human cause(s) and its physical and socio-economic consequences
Physical Causes/Contributing Factors
Human Causes/Contributing Factors
Case studies
Choose one example to
summarise from the list
below
- East coast of England
(1953)
- New Orleans (2005)
- Irawaddy delta, Burma
(2008)
- Bangladesh (numerous
examples)
Flood =
When =
Areas impacted (Sketch map)
Causes
Physical and socio-economic
impacts
Response and Management
(Short and long term)
7a. Coastal protection objectives and management strategies – Hard engineering: sea walls, revetments, rip rap, gabions, groynes and
barrages
Why do we protect coastlines?
Key approaches
 Do nothing
Choose one of the following
coastal management strategies:
● Gabions
● Groynes
● Barrages
Describe the technique and
explain how it helps to protect
the coastline. (4 marks)
 Hold the line =
 Extend the line =
 Retreat the line =
Technique
EXAM QUESTION
Description
Diagram
Advantages
Disadvantages
EXAM QUESTION
Sea wall
Revetments
Rip rap or
rock armour
Gabions
The photo above shows revetments in
Happisburgh, Norfolk in 2007
Groynes
Suggest reasons why revetments
were ineffective in protecting this
coast. (4 marks)
Barrages
7b. Soft engineering: beach nourishment, dune regeneration, marsh creation, land use/activity management
What? =
Beach Nourishment
Why =
Managed Retreat/Realignment
What?
What? =
Dune regeneration
Why =
Diagrams showing different approaches
of managed retreat
Planning/ zoning and land use management
What? =
Why =
15 MARK EXAM QUESTIONS
1. Evaluate the potential of soft engineering
techniques for managing coasts in a sustainable
way.
Make reference to one or more case studies of
coastal management where such techniques
have been dominant.
How?
Why?
2. Discuss issues relating to a coastal area
where soft engineering management strategies
have been adopted.
Advantages and Sustainability
3. With reference to one or more case study
of coastal management, discuss whether the
benefits outweigh the costs.
7c. Case studies of two contrasting areas – one where hard engineering and one where soft engineering has been dominant
To investigate issues relating to costs and benefits of schemes, including the potential for sustainable management
Case study of Hard engineering – North Yorkshire
(Sandsend to Whitby and Robin Hood’s Bay)
Case study of Soft Engineering (Managed Retreat)
(Abbots Hall Farm, Essex)
Where (sketch map and
description)
Why is the area being
protected?
Where (sketch map and
description)
Why is the area being
protected?
Methods (describe and
diagrams)
Evaluation
 Costs and benefits (Economic &
environmental)
 Sustainability?
Methods (describe and
diagrams)
Evaluation
 Costs and benefits (Economic
& environmental)
 Sustainability?