Session 3
Hair
GH12
Trainer requirements to teach this session
For this session you will need the following:
•
•
•
•
•
Handout
GH12.3.1 (4 pages)
Handout
GH12.3.2 (2 pages)
Handout
GH12.3.3 (2 pages)
Slide
GH12.3.3
Learner Check for Session 3
Trainer notes
The session will cover:
3.1the factors that must be taken into
consideration prior to cutting hair
3.2the factors that must be considered when
cutting wet and dry hair
3.3the average rate of growth for hair and the
hair growth cycle
© Copyright Habia 2009 - All rights reserved.
Page 1 - Unit GH12 - Session 3.
Session 3
GH12
Hair
3.1the factors that must be taken into
consideration prior to cutting hair
Explain that hairdressers have to take many things into
consideration before they begin a haircut, but that they
should be particularly careful about the spread of
infections and infestations.
Ref: Handout GH12.3.1
Use the handout to explain the factors that must be
considered prior to haircutting.
3.2the factors that must be considered when
cutting wet and dry hair
Ref: Handout GH12.3.2
Clippers and razors are not part of the
range for NVQ/SVQ Level 2, but have been included in
the handout as reference for the learners.
Remind learners that human hair has properties of
elasticity. Hair in good condition can stretch up to half
its own length when wet. This is one of the factors
they must consider when deciding to cut hair wet or
dry.
Tell learners that the natural partings of hair are more
easily seen if the hair is wet.
However, stress that the growth patterns and amount
of natural movement can be best seen on dry hair.
Page 2 - Unit GH12 - Session 3.
© Copyright Habia 2009 - All rights reserved.
Session 3
Wet hair
GH12
Tell learners that they must remember the hair’s
elasticity when cutting because if they stretch the hair
too much when cutting it, the hair may be too short
when it dries and springs back to its normal length.
Stress that this is most important when cutting a fringe.
Explain the benefits of cutting wet hair as:
• The hair is easier to section and control
•Guidelines within the haircut can be seen
and followed more easily – makes precision cutting
easier
State that the hair must also be wet when using a
razor. Explain that this is to prevent damage to the
hair and to ensure client comfort. The hair would be
pulled if it is dry when being cut or thinned with a razor.
Now tell the learners about cutting dry hair
Dry hair
Precision cutting is difficult to do on dry hair as the hair
will slide through the blades of the scissors.
Explain that the hair must be dry when they use
thinning scissors or clippers to prevent too much hair
being removed.
Scissor over comb technique can be completed more
easily on dry hair, as the comb glides through the short
dry hair more effortlessly than on
wet hair.
Stress to learners that their tools must be very sharp
for use on dry hair. Blunt scissors will simply push the
hair out of the blades and the resulting cut will be
uneven. State that this is particularly important if the
hair is very thick.
© Copyright Habia 2009 - All rights reserved.
Page 3 - Unit GH12 - Session 3.
Session 3
GH12
Summary
Tell learners that the factors when cutting hair wet or
dry to be considered are:
•
•
•
•
hair type – can be more easily seen on dry hair
(too curly, wavy or straight for the look?)
hairstyle – wet hair shows the natural parting (ie, if
it lies to one or other side, etc.)
hair growth patterns – best seen on dry hair (can
influence decisions related to the length of the hair
cut, ie, some hair may need to be left longer to
disguise some hair growth patterns)
hair elasticity – avoid too much tension when
cutting (this will stretch the hair)
Discuss with learners that at the consultation stage of
the haircut, they must be aware that the client’s hair
may have been blow dried.
Ask learners what they think this
may do in relation to their ability to
check growth patterns, hair type and
natural lie
The blow dry may camouflage these things
and make it harder for the hairdresser to
see them.
State that they must remember this when making
decisions about the haircut.
3.3the average rate of growth for hair and the
hair growth cycle
Ref: Handout GH12.3.3
Explain to learners that the average rate of growth of a
human hair is 1.25 cms a month. This is about the
same as 1/2 inch per month.
Page 4 - Unit GH12 - Session 3.
© Copyright Habia 2009 - All rights reserved.
Session 3
GH12
It is important that learners know this so that
they can advise the client as to how soon they should
return to the salon in order to maintain
their hairstyle.
Explain that clients should be encouraged to visit the
salon to have their hair cut at least every six weeks.
Regular cutting is necessary for the style and shape of
the haircut to be maintained. This will also remove any
damaged ends that have been caused by regular heat
styling.
The hair growth cycle
Ref: Slide GH12.3.3 & Handout GH12.3.3
(continued)
other units
This area of learning is also covered in
Using the overhead transparency and handout, explain
about the growth cycle (or remind learners if they have
covered this area of learning before).
State that hair constantly grows, falls out and replaces
itself. However, sometimes – in the case of male
pattern baldness, the hair fails to replace itself and
baldness results.
Explain that there are 3 phases or stages to the hair
growth cycle.
Anagen phase of the cycle
Explain that this phase of the cycle lasts the longest.
However, opinions vary as to the length of this cycle,
but the average, general conclusion is between 1 1/2
and 7 years, possibly slightly longer.
© Copyright Habia 2009 - All rights reserved.
Page 5 - Unit GH12 - Session 3.
Session 3
GH12
Catagen phase of the cycle
Explain to learners that in this stage, the hair has
moved away from the dermal papilla. The base of the
detaching hair moves up and becomes level with the
sebaceous gland.
At the same time, however, the follicle canal shrinks to
about a third of its usual size. The cells now stop
making colour pigment and the root takes on the
appearance of a small, white coloured ball, which can
be seen when the hair comes out. This process takes
about 2 to 3 weeks.
Hair-growth activity at this point is not altogether
dormant because the hair is preparing for new growth
by making new germ cells. These cells wait for a
signal to begin the anagen process again.
Whilst the hair is in catagen, two distinct reservoirs can
be seen in the upper and lower third of the root sheath.
The theory here is that these two stem-cell reservoirs
fuse in a late catagen and telogen but then split at the
onset of anagen.
Telogen phase of the cycle
Explain that this is the resting stage of the growth cycle
and lasts between three and four months.
If the old hair is still embedded in the follicle,
the new hair will push it out.
Explain to learners that the telogen stage can last for
just a few hours but that, if the follicle fails to go back
into the growing stage - anagen, then baldness will
result.
Anagen
Following telogen, the anagen stage begins again.
Now complete the learner check for
session 3 to check learners
understanding.
Page 6 - Unit GH12 - Session 3.
© Copyright Habia 2009 - All rights reserved.
Session 3
Cut hair using basic techniques
GH12
Learner Check
Session 3
1. State why the following must be
taken into consideration prior to
cutting hair.
• Hair growth patterns
• Hair texture
• Suspected infection
1. Hair growth patterns – the pattern
of hair may restrict the choice of
haircut.
Hair texture – the hair may be too
fine or too coarse for the chosen
haircut.
Suspected infection – hairdressing
services must not be carried out if
there is a suspected infection
present.
2. List three items that should be
identified when the hair is dry prior
to cutting.
2.
3. List two items that should be
identified when the hair is wet prior
to cutting.
3. Natural partings
Elasticity
Natural movement of the hair
4. State two benefits of cutting hair
wet.
4. The hair is easier to section and
control
The guidelines can be easily seen
and followed
5. State whether the following
techniques for cutting should be
carried out on wet or dry hair.
• Razor cutting
• Thinning
• Clipper cutting
• Scissor over comb
5.
6. State the average rate of growth for
hair.
6. 1.25cm (1/2 inch) per month.
7. Name the three phases of the hair
growth cycle.
7. Anagen, Catagen, Telogen
© Copyright Habia 2009 - All rights reserved.
Hair growth patterns
Hair type
Hair texture
Hair condition
Required haircut
Signs of disease/disorder
Infection or infestation
Piercings
Wet
Dry
Dry
Dry
Page 7 - Unit GH12 - Session 3.
Session 3
Page 8 - Unit GH12 - Session 3.
GH12
© Copyright Habia 2009 - All rights reserved.
Session 3
Hair
GH12
Trainer summary
3.1the factors that must be taken into
consideration prior to cutting hair
•
•
•
•
•
•
•
•
•
•
Suspected infections
Suspected infestations
Hair density
Hair texture
Hair type
Hair elasticity
Head and face shape
Piercings
Hair growth patterns
Hair and scalp disorders
3.2the factors that must be considered when
cutting wet and dry hair
• Hair stretches when wet.
•Certain tools should only be used on wet hair,
others only on dry hair
•It is easier to see certain hair characteristics if
the hair is wet, others can be better seen if the
hair is dry
3.3the average rate of growth for hair
•The average rate of growth is 1.25 cms or
1/2 inch per month
• The three stages of hair growth are:
• Anagen
• Catagen
• Telogen
• Following telogen, anagen begins again
© Copyright Habia 2009 - All rights reserved.
Page 9 - Unit GH12 - Session 3.
Session 3
GH12
Hair
Key/Core Skill Opportunities
There will be an opportunity to promote discussion
when covering:
•
•
GH12.3.2 The camouflaging effect of a blow
dry when assessing the hair prior
to cutting
GH12.3.3 The calculation of the amount
of length to remove in relation to
the client’s requirements, the time
since the last haircut and the rate
of hair growth
There will be an opportunity to carryout straightforward
calculations when covering:
•
Page 10 - Unit GH12 - Session 3.
GH12.3.3 The amount of length to remove
in relation to the client’s
requirements, the time since the
last haircut and the rate of hair
growth.
© Copyright Habia 2009 - All rights reserved.