1. Summary 1.1 The Conservation Area Appraisal identifies those aspects of the historic area which it is desirable to preserve and enhance. It shows that Chiddingfold has a historic environment of very high quality. It is set in an area of beautiful countryside, and has a considerable history in relation to its agricultural origins and the glass making industry of the Middle Ages. 1.2 The character of the conservation areas has been analysed in detail by examining 9 study areas. The street layout, historic buildings, the surfaces and heritage features, the green spaces and trees, the negative aspects, the existing conservation area boundary and the enhancement opportunities have all been considered. 1.3 The most significant problem in the conservation areas is the impact of through traffic. A detailed study has been made of this issue and proposals have been made for ameliorating the problem. 1.4 Regarding future development, the appraisal identifies the constraining effect of the Green Belt, the Area of Outstanding Natural Beauty and of the Rural Settlements Policy on development adjacent to and within the settlement. There has been very limited recent development within the conservation areas. 1.5 Looking at land use, Chiddingfold has retained a number of shops, pubs and public facilities such as halls. These uses are an intrinsic part of the character of the conservation areas and should be retained. 1.6 Trees and hedges form a significant part of the verdant appearance of the conservation area. A detailed survey has been carried out and the outstanding specimens identified. The need to actively maintain and manage trees and hedgerows has been considered in the appraisal. 1.7 The listed and locally listed buildings and the heritage features have been identified and proposals made for additions to the lists. 1 1.8 The area studies have identified enhancement projects that could be carried out to improve the appearance of the conservation area, and sources of funding have been considered. 1.9 Lastly, the appraisal considers the implementation of the proposals and how this will be achieved. 1.10 The conclusion is that the special characteristics of the conservation areas that have been identified should be preserved and the areas should be enhanced as funds become available and opportunities arise. 2 2. Introduction 2.1 The legislation on conservation areas was introduced in 1967 with the Civic Amenities Act and in 1973 Surrey County Council designated the Chiddingfold conservation area. The boundary was extended by the then District Council in 1981 and the Northbridge area was designated in 1982 (See Plans 1 and 2). 2.2 The current legislation is the Planning (Listed Buildings and Conservation Areas) Act 1990 which states that every Local Authority shall: 2.3 “From time to time determine which parts of their area are areas of special architectural or historic interest the character or appearance of which it is desirable to preserve or enhance, and shall designate those areas as conservation areas” (Section 69 (a) and (b). 2.4 The Act also requires local authorities to “formulate and publish proposals for the preservation and enhancement of conservation areas”. (Section 71). 2.5 In 1981 the Borough Council carried out a conservation area study of Chiddingfold, which included enhancement proposals. This Appraisal is being carried out in compliance with the English Heritage guidance published in February 2006, “`Guidance on Conservation Area Appraisals” and “Guidance on the Management of Conservation Areas”. The techniques and methods advised in these documents have been used in the appraisal. 2.6 The status of this appraisal is that it is a document to be incorporated into an overarching Conservation Areas Supplementary Planning Document (SPD) that will be adopted by the Borough Council. The SPD will relate to the Waverley Borough Local Plan 2002 Policy HE8 on Conservation Areas, which is a “saved policy” in operation until such time as the Core Strategy of the Local Development Framework comes into force. 2.7 The programme of conservation area appraisals began in Waverley in 2002, when the Borough Council agreed to undertake a series of appraisals in accordance with the list of conservation areas in the Borough, using a scoring system. This system identified those conservation areas with the most serious environmental problems and put them in order on the list. Thus appraisals for Wrecclesham, Bramley and Farnham headed the list, followed by Chiddingfold. 2.8 The approach adopted for producing the Chiddingfold appraisal is the same as for the other appraisals. The Parish Council and a number of organisations and individuals in the village have come together to form the Chiddingfold Conservation Area Appraisal Group and have collaborated on writing various chapters of the document, in cooperation with the Borough Council. This approach has been adopted to ensure that the expertise of the local partners is incorporated directly into the appraisal. 3 3. The Aims & Objectives of the Appraisal 3.1 Aim The aim is to appraise the character of the Chiddingfold conservation areas and to identify those qualities which should be preserved and enhanced, and to produce proposals for the improvement of the areas. 3.2 Objectives for the Process of the Appraisal It is intended to meet this aim by carrying out the following objectives: 3.3 Undertake the appraisal. 3.4 Produce the document in partnership with local organisations concerned with heritage. 3.5 Work closely with Surrey County Council as Highway Authority on the movement aspects of the appraisal. 3.6 Seek sources of funding for the enhancement projects. 3.7 Produce an appraisal document providing a strong statement that those who live and own property in the conservation area can enhance both the conservation area and the value of their own properties by using the report for guidance and support in managing their own properties. Improvement needs to come from action by individual owners as well as Borough and Parish Councils 3.8 Consultation This is the draft version of the Chiddingfold Conservation Area Appraisal for consultation with the community. The comments received will be considered by the Chiddingfold Conservation Area Appraisal Group and the Borough Council and incorporated as appropriate into the document. The document will then be adopted by the Borough Council, pending incorporation into the SPD. 3.9 Objectives for the Conservation Areas The objectives for the Chiddingfold conservation areas are: 3.10 to preserve the character of the conservation areas; 3.11 to safeguard the business uses, provided they are not detrimental to the character of the conservation areas; 3.12 to seek to make the village safer by providing pedestrian crossings and improved junctions; 4 3.13 to protect the open spaces and verges in the conservation areas; 3.14 to seek the provision of parking facilities for the village centre; 3.15 to devise a maintenance programme for the trees and hedges; 3.16 to carry out enhancements that will improve and protect the appearance and heritage of the conservation areas; 3.17 It is the aspiration of the appraisal to carry out these objectives for the benefit of the conservation areas. 5 4. The Setting of the Conservation Areas 4.1 The setting can be defined as the area surrounding the conservation area, which has an impact on its character. In the case of the Chiddingfold conservation areas this setting is mainly very attractive countryside. 4.2 The countryside surrounding Chiddingfold and Northbridge conservation areas is designated as an Area of Outstanding Natural Beauty and Area of Great Landscape Value, and is in the Green Belt. Therefore the landscape setting has the highest level of planning protection from development. Furthermore, the landscape in the wider Chiddingfold area is of historic interest because of the glass works industry dating from the early Middle Ages. 4.3 Chiddingfold is set in the heart of the “fold” country, an area of undulating, thickly wooded countryside. The approach roads to the village are bordered by small fields, woodland and thick hedgerows. 4.4 The area around the village is one of gentle hillsides and is surrounded by woodland and fields, some of which are visible from the conservation areas. There are glimpses and views of the encircling countryside from many places in the historic core, giving the village an especially rural character of very high quality. There is a need for support of local farming in the appropriate management and the use of surrounding fields, which are grazed to the edge of conservation area. DEFRA and the AONB provide financial support and guidance on this. Many are well used and managed e.g. cattle in Oaklands Park and sheep in the field with Chiddingfold House. Some are, however, becoming derelict and weed infested e.g. between Church and Ballsdown and to east of the Cricket Green. 4.5 The significance of the setting of a conservation area has long been recognised by the Local Planning authority. In 1980, The then District Council published the document “ Village conservation Areas - Policy”, which contained the following statement: 6 4.6 “Each village is surrounded by agricultural land and woodland and these may even extend into the heart of the village. Such land, which is important to the setting and character of the conservation area as an agricultural settlement, and should therefore be retained, will be defined in the proposals for each village. It will be particularly important to keep open even small areas of land which separate the historic village from areas of more recent development.” 4.7 This approach has been adhered to over the succeeding decades, and the principles have been incorporated into the Waverley Borough Local Plan 2002, Policy HE8. 7 5. Conservation Area Boundaries 5.1 The Chiddingfold conservation area boundary was designated in October 1973 by Surrey County Council and was extended by Waverley District Council in October 1981. Waverley District Council designated the Northbridge conservation area in December 1982. The Character Studies in this appraisal have looked again at the boundaries and the team of surveyors has put proposals forward (See Plan 3). 5.2 The designation of any extensions to the boundaries has to be carried out by the Borough Council. At this stage, the Council is not supporting all the proposed extensions, because some of them are not considered to be appropriate, but for the purpose of the public consultation, the proposals are retained in the appraisal for the public to make comments. 8 9 1:4054 19/04/2007 Plan 2 10 MAP SHEET: SU9635 1:14379 19/04/2007 Plan 3 11 MAP SHEET: SU9635 6. Historical Development 12 13 1:9981 19/04/2007 Plan 6 14 MAP SHEET: SU9635 15 16 17 6.1 Early development of Chiddingfold Two thousand years ago a vast forest covered an area 130 miles long from the far corner of Kent, to Winchester. This forest was up to 30 miles wide, effectively from Godalming to the sea. The Anglo-Saxons called this Andredesweald, the word weald meaning an uninhabitable region. 6.2 The recovery of flints from the Middle Stone Age does however show the presence of man in the area from 4000BC, and Bronze Age and Iron Age items found in local museums attest to this. Gradually the Britons and Celts moved south into the forest and made clearings alongside the streams. The names given to some of these earliest settlements are still in use at Cherfold, Okelands and Mesels. These early Britons lived in wattle and daub houses, grew corn, raised cattle and reared small swift horses. They also burnt charcoal and smelted iron. 6.3 These Britons were initially undisturbed by the coming of the Romans, but gradually small Roman settlements were made in the countryside. The Roman Road called Rye Street runs into the village from the northeast past a Roman Settlement at Whitebeach, where a large building from c.250AD was discovered in 1883. From there the road ran east through High Street Green to Dunsfold. The large roman villa was used as a quarry for building materials over the centuries. It was excavated recorded and destroyed in 1883. Examples of stone and tiles from it can be found in the village. 6.4 After the Romans retreated in the fifth century, various Saxon tribes from the area between the Elbe and the Rhine, in what is now Germany, invaded Britain. Tribes from the Oldenburg, Hanover and Westphalia regions came to South Surrey and East Hampshire. Interestingly many Saxon family names from towns in those regions can be found reflected in names such as Killinghurst, Frillinghurst and Sydenhurst in which the Saxon word horst has also changed to hurst, to denote woodlands and Henfold and Burningfold where the word fold indicates a clearing or enclosure. 6.5 The name of Chiddingfold comes from this Saxon period. It means the enclosure of the descendants of Cead. A family descended from the Caedingas, originating from Westphalia in the 7th century, came via the Meon valley and first settled in Catteshill before moving south and clearing land near Prestwick and Okelands on the eastern edge of the present village. Chiddingfold became part of the Royal Manor of Godalming and subsequently King Alfred the Great granted land from Pockford towards south bridge to a family called Anticknapp. 6.6 Chiddingfold was not mentioned by name in the Doomsday Survey of 1066 as it formed part of the Royal Manor of Godalming. In 1155 Henry II granted the Manor to the Bishop of Sarum, (now Salisbury). This led to the building of a new stone church around 1180 to replace the old Saxon chapel originally built circa 978. Several Centuries of prosperity followed for Chiddingfold. There had always been sheep and cattle raised and crops grown such as rye, hay, oats and beans on the farms, but increasingly various forms of industry grew 18 up including glass making, tanning and cloth making. The latter was a significant industry in the region and involved many different skills including shearmen, weavers, tailors and dyers. 6.7 The Middle Ages Sand and bracken for alkali came from Sandhills, and of an abundance of this, the area was ideal for glass making, which flourished here for several centuries. The first record of glass making in England is in a Charter granted in 1225 for glass making on 20 acres of land at Dyers Cross and this industry grew and continued for the next 300 years. This excellence in glass making lead to the village having greater prominence than would be expected from its size. 6.8 In 1300, the Bishop of Sarum, established Chiddingfold as 'a market town’ conferring the right to a weekly market (Thursday) and a three days fair annually at the Feast of the Nativity on the 8th September. This would have been a major event for the village as it brought increased status and trade. Blackhams in Mill Lane dates from this period, which is one of the oldest houses in the village. 6.9 However the prosperity of the village in the middle of the 14th century suffered a number of blows. First there were some very wet summers resulting in poor harvests, the death of sheep and cattle and then famine, disease and death. In 1348, plague in the form of the “Black Death” struck most of the Country with a particularly bad epidemic in 1360/61. These two disasters combined cut the average life expectancy of the population by 10 years in the latter half of the century. This resulted in a shortage of labour and this and the poor harvests had a disastrous effect on local communities and agriculture. Fortunately because Chiddingfold was quite isolated it largely escaped the plague and its economy was partly sustained by the continued production of glass. Several important chapels and colleges in Oxford, Windsor, Westminster and Winchester were supplied at this time with stained glass. 6.10 The glass industry continued for another two hundred years alongside increasing competition from iron smelting. Iron smelting had been carried on since before the Romans, producing relatively low-grade iron for arrowheads, nails iron bars and horseshoes. However in the 16th century demand for iron ore increased to provide cannon and cannon balls for the Navy and defences of the South Coast. An influx of French iron makers familiar with the new blast furnaces being used in Europe came to the region and the first iron furnace in Chiddingfold was built in 1573. These furnaces enabled greatly superior iron to be produced. These two industries of glass and iron, combined with traditional trades in wool, textiles, dyeing and tanning brought prosperity back to the region . 6.11 A sign of the prosperity of the village was the number of houses being built or enlarged in the 15th and 16th Centuries when over 30 new properties were built. Hadmans was the earliest of the houses built at the top of the Green followed by the first Glebe House built to the west of the Green. Most were 19 built at the turn of the 16th century including houses such as Beckhams, Botley House, Brockhurst and Brookhouse, (which were originally a single house divided in 1650,) Old Pickhurst and Roppleys, and cottages such as Autumn, Chantry, Cyclops, Greenaways (1545), Pound, Quince. Significant houses such as Solars, Ramster, Tugley, Skinners Lane Farm and Dog Kennel Hill House followed slightly later. 6.12 However this period led to a time of turbulence and hardship. The glass industry had begun to decline in the 16th century due to increasing competition both from other centres of glass making and from the voracious appetite for wood for the new iron furnaces. At the same time fierce disputes grew up between the glassmakers, who were largely foreigners (French, Flemings and Germans from Lorraine), and the new industry of iron making. Although special coppices had been planted, the huge demand for wood from the glassmakers and iron smelters caused dissent with commoners, who relied on the wood for so many activities in daily life. Eventually in 1620 an act of Parliament was passed requiring only coal to be used for glassmaking and prohibiting the use of wood, more than 1 ft square at the base. This had a devastating effect on the glassworks, although the iron smelters survived for another 100 years. 6.13 In the middle of the 17th century, many men began being called to arms to fight first on the Continent and then in the Civil War. In 1645 every man between 16 and 60 was called up to defend Guildford. Since many of the families in the iron trade were Royalists, Cromwell sent a large number of soldiers being billeted in Chiddingfold to control the industry. The cost of feeding these unruly troops combined with heavy taxes led the villagers to plead extreme poverty and a petition to have the soldiers removed was successful. At this time taxes were based on hearths; in Chiddingfold there were 263, which made it larger then than Haslemere, which had 204. 6.14 In the 18th century there are many tales of smugglers either passing through the village or using it as a temporary storage point for contraband on its way up from the coast to caves near Puttenham. Chantry Cottage on the north side of the Green was one, as were houses on Lincoln’s Hill, where reputedly the owners were also known to tie up fresh packhorses at night and take away tired ones in the morning! At the turn of the 18th century a different threat emerged, when roving press gangs came to the village to impress and take away able-bodied men from the village to fight on board ship in the various wars of the time. The only escape was to be bought out, but this did not prevent some villagers being taken for a second time and this continued well into the first half of the 19th century. 6.15 The population had risen from 176 in 1380 to 600 in 1600, and thereafter increased only slowly – by the time of the first census in 1801 it was only 848. In this period the village returned to a largely agricultural existence with many tenant farmers. Many of these were in some financial difficulty as evidenced by the large number of mortgaged properties in the 18th and 19th century. Nine big estates encircled the village providing the main source of farming and domestic employment. These workers often lived in very small, 20 overcrowded cottages either on the estate or on the edge of the village. One surviving example of this type is Codling Cottage in Pockford Road. 6.16 The way trade in the village operated was an interesting example of what we would now call vertical integration. Sheep would be sheared and then the wool brought to North Bridge where it was washed, dried and stored and yarn produced. This was then taken to the Green where the wool was woven into a course cloth known as Kersey Cloth. This was then taken to Southbridge where it was dyed or tanned. Similarly cattle would be brought to the slaughterhouse, and the hides would then go to the tannery and from there to Beckhams in Coxcombe Lane where gloves were made. 6.17 The other main trade from this area to London was for timber, cut planks, hoops, flour and ironwork. Gradually prosperity returned and some villagers were clearly quite rich. This is reflected in the fashionable facades that appeared on the fronts of houses around the Green. This trend started with the Queen Anne style front at Brockhurst and the greatly expanded rectory at Glebe House, followed by Georgian fronts such as Beckhams and particularly the Manor House, (then known as Chiddingfold House and “owned by the richest man in the village”) and later on with Victorian fronts such as Brook House. 6.18 Development over the last 250 years Unlike the rest of the country, the Industrial Revolution had little impact on the village. Some industries continued such as, charcoal burning, iron working, tanning, tile making and from the middle of the 16th century brick making using Chiddingfold clay. Traditional cloth making declined and was replaced by framework knitting, producing knitted stockings and jerseys. Later two stick factories were established using the copses of sweet chestnut and ash for making walking sticks and for umbrella handles until the end of the 20th century. 6.19 Improvements in transport did give rise to some change. Chiddingfold had always been on the ancient way south from Guildford via Shalford and Hambledon entering the village from the 21 north-east above Northbridge. Travellers from Elstead and Milford had to make a long diversion to go around the heavily wooded Wormley Hill to join the Hambledon road. In 1703 Prince George of Denmark on his way from Windsor to Petworth described the Hambledon road as being “the worst ever seen” after several accompanying coaches were overturned in the mud and potholes. Although there was a track to Petworth the main route out of the village was over Southbridge to Cripplecrutch Hill and then via Jobsons Lane, past Lickfold along Highstead Lane to Midhurst and Chichester. The Ogilby Map (1675) shows the Medieval route through Hambledon Hurst. This Medieval route was critical to the development of Chiddingfold. 6.20 In 1750 a new turnpike was opened which took travellers (on the present route of the A283) directly over the top of Wormley Hill and then on a new raised dead-straight piece of road over marshland directly to Northbridge. The foundations of this were apparently made of iron slag from the iron smelters of previous centuries. Half way along this raised road there was a hump on which stood a Tollgate and the Tollhouse, which still exists. Different tolls were collected for any wheeled vehicle with rates that covered a humble dog drawing a cart to a magnificent coach. At Northbridge, there was the Gate House (Winterton Arms) where there was also a weighing machine for calculating the tariff across the bridge. 6.21 The turnpike opened up the village both for the export of goods and to passing trade. A regular service from Great Lombard Street in London to Chichester was started costing 6 pence a mile for inside passengers. A yellow and black coach, named “Earl of March” ran from Witley through Chiddingfold to Petworth and Midhurst. After the railway through Witley to Portsmouth was opened in 1859, coaches starting from Witley station went south to Petworth and then on to Chichester with changes of horses every 15 miles or so. 6.22 The railway was a key factor of change to the area over the next 80 years as it enabled London to be reached easily and resulted in rapid growth along its route. However Chiddingfold missed out of the major growth in population and prosperity that for instance came to Haslemere, because it was only served by the station at “Witley for Chiddingfold” It did however further open up the village and it became practical for affluent people to work in London and live in Chiddingfold. It also greatly eased access to Godalming and Guildford and generated a demand for transport to and from the station. 6.23 Education in Chiddingfold had been made compulsory for boys by a deed in 1666 and various houses had been used as schools until in 1835 a new School room was built. This was expanded greatly when three new school rooms were added in 1868, as a result of the generosity of both the Pinkard and Sadler families. More shops and stores, the Methodist Chapel, a cricket green and a number of terraced houses were built around this time as the village expanded from the Green towards North Bridge and to the west along Woodside Road. Next to the Crown, a new purpose designed banking house was built near the Crown Inn in 1900. 22 6.24 All these factors led to the village growing significantly from 300 to 400 houses between 1881 and 1901. However, in the same period the net increase in population was only 220, indicating a move away from the very large families that had been the norm in earlier times. 6.25 Despite this, for the ordinary villager life was still contained within the village where they were born, educated, worked, played, cared for, attended church and were ultimately buried, often without having left the village and surrounding parishes. 6.26 Later development By 1901 the population had risen to 1558, and in the first half of the twentieth century more expansion took place, as people started to move out of the towns, the car revolutionised travel, and land was released for house building. At the same time a number of people who had made substantial fortunes in the latter half of the 19th century started to build very fine country Houses in the area, Coombe Court, Chiddingfold House, Pickhurst and Northbridge House are all examples of this type. 6.27 Electricity had come early to the big houses using their own generator sets, but it was not until the late 1920s that mains electricity became widely available. A few houses also had telephones at this time, but mains sewerage only became available in 1946 and then only to parts of the village 6.28 While the total population did not increase significantly between 1911 and 1951, this hides a significant social change as families became much smaller. The impact of two World Wars and economic depression in the 1930’s led to a drastic decline in agriculture, which had always been labour-intensive. This in turn led to the division of most large estates and the sale of agricultural cottages, which became occupied by smaller families. The large numbers of tenant farmers declined steeply and most places of work were in towns and cities and with only the two stick factories and shops providing limited local employment. 6.29 As the 20th century progressed Chiddingfold became increasingly popular for successful people who wanted to live in the country but of necessity or desire worked in London. This trend was accelerated by electrification of the London-Portsmouth railway in 1937 and post war the proximity to two major airports meant it was a very convenient home for anyone who did a lot of international travel liked the countryside and wanted their children to go to one of the many excellent schools in the area. Employment opportunities in Guildford and the surrounding towns also became much greater. 6.30 Housing pressures and expectations of higher living standards were reflected by significant new building activity throughout the 20th century with the 400 houses in 1901 increasing to 579 by 2005. Whereas in 1900 there were a few large houses and many expanded and a large number of 3 and 4 bed-roomed houses built. 23 6.31 Most of the house building in the 20th century occurred to the west of the Conservation Area, initially in Woodside Road and then Ridgeley Road, while on Ballsdown there was still an open field in 1939 with sheep grazing on the dry soil while most of the houses there were built after the war. In the late 1940’s a number of council houses were built at Queensmead, Pathfields and Hartsgrove with priority given to returning servicemen and displaced domestic staff from the large estates. Further new estates were built from the 1980’s onwards at Ashcombe, Crofts and Pinckards amongst others and the housing stock further increased as many older properties have had their large gardens in-filled. 6.32 For much of the 20th century the village managed to stay self sufficient with a wide range of small shops and services available. These included three banks, at least three grocers, three butchers, a tailor, laundry, cobbler, cycle shop, ironmongers, chemist, dentist, doctors, schools, garage, coal merchants, dairy, haberdashers, tea rooms and in fact very few houses did not have some sort of front room trade or business. However, World War II and the subsequent period of rationing and deprivation led to many of these local shops and services disappearing. 6.33 The Present and Future Chiddingfold today is an interesting subset of modern living. It combines a wonderfully historic and picturesque central Conservation Area with a surprisingly large population in the surrounding relatively modern houses. The village and its surrounding countryside make it a very attractive destination for visitors and walkers. The village is also very fortunate to have retained quite an extensive range of local shops and services. These include two general stores, a Post Office, a chemist, a blacksmith, a garage to the north and to the south of the village, a high class butcher, a builders merchant, electricians, doctors and veterinary surgeries, as well as active churches, schools, playing fields, pubs and restaurants. These coupled to reasonable communications, good schooling and excellent housing stock make it a very attractive place to live as well as being a destination in its own right, rather than just another dormitory town. 6.34 The challenge for the future is to ensure the village can retain this balance between a historic, relatively self–sufficient, alive village and the pressures of an ever growing and more compelling outside world with the attendant threats to village businesses and services and to the peace of the village due to significantly increased traffic. 6.35 Equally important will be the re-generation of a much wider degree of involvement in and responsibility for community matters and creating affordable housing so that the village can retain both young and lower paid people as well as those who are more affluent. 6.36 Acknowledgements 24 Rev T.S. Cooper’s History of Chiddingfold 1910; H.E. Malden, A history of the Counties of Surrey 1911; Mrs H. C. Halahan Chiddingfold History, 1927; H.R.H. White’s histories of the village, Church and Schools 1991-1999; Clare Robinson’s lecture to Chiddingfold Society 1967; A bygone age: Memories of Chiddingfold by Clare Simkin 1999; The History of Witley, Milford and surrounding area by Elisabeth Forster. 25
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