1 CHAPTER 1 INTRODUCTION 1.1 GENERAL Although nature begins with the cause and ends with the experience, we must follow the opposite course, namely, begin with the experience and by the means of it investigate the cause. Leonardo da Vinci, 1452-1519 Notebooks Diverse and complex natural processes continually change coasts physically, chemically and biologically, at scales that range from microscopic (grains of sand) to global (changes in sea level). Regional and local characteristics of coasts control the differing interactions and relative importance of these natural processes. Human activity adds yet another dimension to coastal change by modifying and disturbing, both directly and indirectly, the coastal environments and the natural processes of change. An increasing number of people are awakening to the fact that the well-being of the environment and survival are intricately woven into each other. The coastal zone occurs at the interface between the three major natural systems - atmosphere, ocean and land. Processes operating in all three of these systems are responsible for shaping the coastal zone, and the interaction between the three different sets of processes makes the coastal zone an extremely dynamic one. The coastal zone is also a zone of transfer of material from the land to the ocean system, with sediments eroded by rivers, 2 glaciers, etc., being moved to the beach and nearshore, and ultimately some to the ocean floor. The coastal zone is a large and diverse area comprising a rich array of social, economic and environmental resources. These zones are important because majority of the world's population inhabit such zones. Coastal zones are continually changing because of the dynamic interaction between the oceans and the land. 1.2 SEDIMENT CHARACTERISTICS The sediment cycle begins with weathering of rocks and transport of that material. The eroded material is deposited, reflecting the redistribution of material within and the geomorphological evolution. The sediments are transported by water, wind, ice and gravity (turbidity currents). Most beaches are composed of sediments derived from the disintegration of the land – sand and gravel eroded from terrestrial rocks. The composition of the beach sediments reflects the nature of the source rocks and often can be used to assess relative contributions and transport from the sources to the beaches. Waves and nearshore currents continuously rework the accumulated beach sediment, shaping the particles and sorting them by size, shape and density. The beach takes on a form that reflects the totality of water and sediment movements. 1.2.1 Granulometry Grain size distribution is one of the most important characteristics of sediment. This is true because grain size is a powerful tool for describing a site’s geomorphic setting, interpreting the geomorphic significance of fluid dynamics in the natural environment, and distinguishing local versus regional sediment transport mechanisms. The nomenclature used to classify sediment particles according to their grain diameter is illustrated in Table 1.1. 3 Table 1.1 Particle Size Classification Grain Size mm Descriptive Terminology Udden (1914) and Wentworth (1922) Friedman and Sanders (1978) -11 2048 Very large boulders -10 1024 Large boulders 9 512 -8 Blott and Pye (2001) Very large Medium boulders Large 256 Small boulders Medium 7 128 Large cobbles Small 6 64 Small cobbles Very small -5 32 Very coarse pebbles Very coarse -4 16 Coarse pebbles Coarse -3 8 -2 4 -1 2 0 Cobbles Pebbles Boulders Gravel Medium pebbles Medium Fine pebbles Fine Granules Very fine pebbles Very fine 1 Very coarse sand Very coarse sand 1 500 Coarse sand Coarse sand 2 250 3 125 Fine sand Fine sand 4 63 Very fine sand Very fine sand Medium sand Medium sand Very coarse Coarse Medium Fine Very fine Sand 4 Table 1.1 (Continued) Grain Size mm Descriptive Terminology Udden (1914) and Wentworth (1922) Friedman and Sanders (1978) Blott and Pye (2001) 5 31 Very coarse silt Very coarse 6 16 Coarse silt Coarse 7 8 Medium silt Medium 8 4 Fine silt Fine Very fine silt Very fine Clay Clay 9 2 D = 1/2 mm Silt Clay Silt Three dominant factors that control the mean grain size of beach sediments are sediment source, wave energy level and general offshore slope upon which the beach is constructed. Mean is a function of the size range of available materials, amount of energy imparted to the sediment which depends on current velocity or turbulence of the transporting medium. A complex relationship exists between the energy level of the nearshore waves and currents, the offshore slope, and the resulting grain sizes of the beach. There is a general tendency for the highest energy beaches with the largest waves to have the coarsest grains. The more exposed beaches of an island are generally made up of the coarsest grains (Dobkins and Folk 1970). Sorting depends on four major factors: (i) the size range of material supplied to the environment, (ii) type of deposition – with currents working over grains continuously i.e. swash and backwash giving rise to better sorting than rapid deposition of sediments, (iii) current characteristics – currents of relatively constant strength whether low or high will give better sorting than currents which fluctuate and (iv) time - beach sediments where waves are 5 attacking continually caving cliffs or are battling great loads of detritus brought to the shore by vigorous rivers, will be generally poorly sorted than beaches on a flat, stable coast receiving little sediment influx. The coarseness of sediment reflects the bottom topography and the local intensity of turbulence and wave-energy dissipation. The largest sediment particles generally are located in the zone of most intense wave breaking, with decrease in grain sizes both toward deeper water and shoreward across surf and swash zones (Folk 1980). Skewness and kurtosis describe how closely the grain size distribution approaches the normal Gaussian probability curve, and the more extreme the values, the more non-normal the curve. It has been found that single-source sediments (e.g. most beach sands, aeolian sands, etc.) tend to have fairly normal curves, while sediments from multiple sources (such as mixtures of beach sands with lagoonal clays, or river sands with locallyderived pebbles) show pronounced skewness and kurtosis. Bimodal sediments exhibit extreme skewness and kurtosis values; although the pure end members of such mixtures have nearly normal curves, sediments consisting dominantly of one end member with only a small amount of the other end member are extremely leptokurtic and skewed, the sign of the skewness depends on which end member dominates; sediments consisting of sub equal amounts of the two end members are extremely platykurtic (Folk 1980). 1.2.2 Weathering Weathering is the breakdown and alteration of rocks and minerals at or near the Earth's surface into products that are more in equilibrium with the conditions found in this environment. Weathering is the first step for a number of other geomorphic and biogeochemical processes. The products of weathering are the major source for sediment transport. There are three broad categories of mechanisms for weathering: physical, chemical and biological. 6 Physical weathering is the breakdown of mineral or rock material by entirely mechanical methods brought about by a variety of causes. Some of the forces originate within the rock or mineral, while others are applied externally. Both of these stresses lead to strain and the rupture of the rock. The processes that may cause mechanical rupture are abrasion, crystallization, thermal expansion, wetting and drying, and pressure release. Chemical weathering involves the alteration of the chemical and mineralogical composition of the weathered material. A number of different processes can result in chemical weathering. The most common chemical weathering processes are hydrolysis, oxidation, reduction, hydration, carbonation, and solution. Biological weathering involves the disintegration of rock and mineral due to the chemical and/or physical agents of an organism. The types of organisms that can cause weathering range from bacteria to plants to animals. The residue of weathering consists of chemically altered and unaltered materials. The most common unaltered residue is quartz. Many of the chemically altered products of weathering become very simple small compounds or nutrient ions. These residues can then be dissolved or transported by water, released to the atmosphere as a gas, or taken up by plants for nutrition. Some of the products of weathering, less resistant alumino-silicate minerals, become clay particles. Other altered materials are reconstituted by sedimentary or metamorphic processes to become new rocks and minerals. 7 1.2.3 Heavy Metals The term heavy metal refers to any metallic chemical element that has a relatively high density and toxicity, highly toxic or poisonous at low concentrations. Heavy metals are a group of elements between copper and lead on the periodic table of the elements; having atomic weights between 63.546 and 200.590 and specific gravities greater than 4.0. Heavy metals are also defined as a group of elements between Copper and Bismuth on the Periodic Table, consisting of 55 elements. Metals can exist in seawater in atleast four different forms viz., in true solution, as colloidal particles, adsorbed on other colloidal particles and as a part of living organisms (Forstner and Wittmann 1979). The partitioning behavior of heavy metals is such that they tend to accumulate in sediments at levels that are several orders of magnitude higher than the surrounding water. Further, their deposition rates are generally related to their rates of input in the surrounding water (Forstner 1990). Sediments are preferable monitoring tools since contaminant concentrations are orders of magnitude higher and they show less variation in time and space, allowing more consistent assessment of spatial and temporal contamination (Caccia et al 2003). Industrial and urban activities have contributed to the increase of metal contamination into marine environment and have directly influenced the coastal ecosystems (Buccolieri et al 2006). 1.2.4 Mineralogy A mineral is a naturally-occurring, homogeneous solid with a definite, but generally not fixed, chemical composition and an ordered atomic arrangement. It is usually formed by inorganic processes. Minerals are integral to every aspect of our life - from aesthetically pleasing gem stones to more mundane but essential components of concrete. In geology, minerals are 8 useful in unraveling certain questions, such as where do large bodies of sediment come from (source), how do they move around (transport processes), and where do they settle (distribution). Although over 100 different minerals have been recorded from sediments, they probably form no more than 0.1 - 0.5% of the terrigenous fraction of sediments. Despite their small amount, they are of great value in determining provenance, tracing transport paths, mapping dispersal patterns, depicting the action of hydraulic regimes and selection processes, locating potential economic deposits and understanding diagenetic processes (Morton and Hallsworth 1999). Minerals are classified based on: Physical characteristics - traits are used to identify and describe mineral species which include color, streak, luster, density, hardness, cleavage, fracture, tenacity, and crystal habit. Occurrences and Environments - one of the most diagnostic features of a mineral is the geological environment in which it is occurs i.e. igneous minerals, metamorphic minerals, sedimentary minerals and hydrothermal minerals Density - or Specific Gravity is an important property of minerals. As a rule, organics, carbonates, and sulfates are light; oxides, sulfides, and elements are heavy; silicates and phosphates are in between. Chemistry – Classification based on the anionic element (negatively charge atom) or polyanionic group (strongly bound group of atoms consisting of a cation plus several anions typically oxygen that has a net negative charge) of elements that occur in the mineral viz., sulfides, halides, 9 oxides, hydroxides, carbonates, sulfates, phosphates, borates, silicates and native elements (contains no anion or polyanion). The heavy mineral content of sediment is a function of five complex variables: i. Lithology of the source area ii. Stability of minerals iii. Durability of the mineral to long continued abrasion iv. Hydraulic factor - minerals of a certain shape or specific gravity will be carried father away leading to changes in mineral ratios from specimen to specimen. v. Post-depositional survival factor - on intrastratal solution by migrating connate water or on surficial weathering some of the less stable minerals (Garnet, Pyroxene, Amphibole, and Staurolite) may be destroyed or etched 1.3 COASTAL PROCESSES Coastal geomorphic processes depend primarily on wave breaking, alongshore and onshore-offshore currents, littoral sediment transport, accretion/deposition of beach sediments. The various features and processes influencing the coastal environment are discussed below. 1.3.1 Physical Processes The main agents responsible for deposition and erosion along coastlines are waves, tides and currents. The formation of coasts is also heavily influenced by their lithology. Coastal processes act on timescales that 10 range from few seconds of a wave breaking to many millennia of sea-level change. Waves - Waves are generated by offshore and nearshore winds. Waves are usually described by their height (the distance between crest and trough), length (the distance between two consecutive crests) or period (the time between two wave crests passing a fixed point). The height of a wave produced by wind depends on the wind strength (wind speed), length of time the wind blows (duration) and the distance over which the wave travels (the fetch). As waves travel away from their source, they spread out and their wavelength increases. Waves with longer wavelengths or periods are known as 'swell'. As they travel into shallower water, waves become steeper and 'break'. The angle at which waves reach the beach affects how much sediment can be transported along the shore. Tides - Tides are oscillations of ocean waters due to the gravitational forces exerted by the Moon and the Sun upon the oceans. The rising tide is usually referred to as flood, whereas falling tide is called as ebb tide. Tidal currents are the horizontal water movements corresponding to the rise and fall (flood and ebb) of the tide. High tides are the highest when the Earth, Moon and Sun are all lined up, about every two weeks. Such tides are known as spring tides. When the Moon is perpendicular to the Earth - Sun line (also about every two weeks), tides are the lowest, called neap tides. The tidal range is the vertical distance between high tide and low tide, and this coincides with the swash zone of the beach. The slope of the shoreline and the tidal range determine the amount of shore 11 exposed to wave action. A low tidal range tends to produce a narrower beach, which is prone to higher erosion. Currents - Currents are generated by the action of tides (ebb and flood currents), waves breaking at an oblique angle with the shore (longshore currents), and the backwash of waves on the foreshore (rip currents). The primary driving force behind ocean currents is constant winds. When the surface current reaches a carrier, such as the coast, water tends to pile up against the land. Of all currents, those that flow near coasts have substantial effect on coastal landforms. The most important type of current in the coastal zone is alongshore current. Longshore current is a current that flows in shallow water, parallel to the shoreline which transports sediments along coasts, sometimes they are powerful enough to erode coast. Storms - Storms result in raised water levels (known as storm surge) and highly energetic waves induced by extreme winds (Cyclones). Combined with high tides, storms may result in catastrophic damages along the coast. Beside damages to coastal infrastructure, storms cause beaches and dunes to retreat tenths of meter in a few hours, or may considerably undermine cliff stability. Although storms are sporadic, they are the primary cause of beach erosion along many coasts. Storms carry sand seaward, forming offshore bars; much of this sand migrates landward during calm weather. Some areas are more storm prone than others. Storms often are concentrated in specific seasons. These seasonal trends result 12 in a general difference between the "eroding" beach and the "building" beach. Human activity can interfere with the processes within a sediment cell by disrupting the supply of sediment and therefore the sediment budget of the cell. Human intervention is caused due to coastal engineering and management practices viz., Groynes and Seawalls, dredging, construction of dams and cliff protection measures, non-management such as blocking structures, jetties or harbour walls. On many occasions these structures block the movement of sediment, which can lead to beach deposition in the updrift with complementing erosion in downdrift. 1.3.2 Coastal Erosion and Deposition The landward displacement of the shoreline caused by the forces of waves and currents is termed as coastal erosion. The effects of waves, currents, tides and winds are primary natural factors that influence the coast. The other aspects eroding the coastline include: the sand sources and sinks, changes in relative sea level, geomorphological characteristics of the shore and sand, etc. Other anthropological effects that trigger beach erosion are: construction of artificial structures, mining of beach sand, offshore dredging. Erosion moves sand from the shore and deposits it elsewhere. The sand can be moved to another beach, to the deeper ocean bottom, into an ocean trench or onto the landside of a dune. The removal of sand from the sand-sharing system results in permanent changes in beach shape and structure. It generally takes months or years to note the impact of erosion; therefore, this is generally classified as a "long term coastal hazard". Deposition is the geological process by which material is added to a landform or land mass. Previously eroded sediment, at the loss of enough kinetic energy is deposited, building up layers of sediment. Deposition occurs 13 when the forces responsible for sediment transportation are no longer sufficient to overcome the forces of particle weight and friction, creating a resistance to motion. Coastal erosion and deposition are very dynamic in nature. When the energy of waves changes, the balance between erosion and deposition also shifts. Normally, beaches grow during quiet weather and retreat (they are eroded) during storms. This occurs in areas where the amount of deposited material exceeds that of the depleted material. 1.3.3 Sediment Transport Sediments on most beaches range from fine sands to cobbles. The size, character of sediments and the slope of the beach are related to the forces that the beach is exposed and the type of material available on the coast. The longshore current plays an important role in transporting the sediments in the surf zone. When particles reach the shore as sand, they are moved alongshore by waves and currents. This longshore transport is a constant process, and great volumes may be transported. Beach material is also derived from erosion of the coastal formation caused by waves and currents, and in some cases, brought onshore by the movement of sediment from deeper water. In some regions, a sizable fraction of the beach material is composed of marine shell fragments, coral reef fragments, and volcanic materials. Clay and silt do not usually settle on beaches because the waves create such turbulence in the water along the shore that these fine particles are kept in suspension. The particles settle and deposit on the bottom only after moving away from the beaches into the quieter water of lagoons and estuaries or the deeper water offshore. 1.4 SEDIMENT TRANSPORT PROCESSES Waves typically approach the shore at an angle. Swash moves sand diagonally, while backwash moves it straight down. The net result of this 14 zigzag movement is the downwind displacement of sand. Transport along the beach is known as beach drift. Besides the beach drift, longshore currents also transport sediments downwind -alongshore drift. Together beach drift and alongshore drift are called littoral drift. Littoral drift leads to growth of sand spit across a bay. Onshore-offshore transport has an average net direction perpendicular to the shore. The four modes of particle transport in water are sliding, rolling, saltation and suspension. Sliding particles remain in continuous contact with the bed, merely tilting to and fro as they move. Rolling grains also remain in continuous contact with the bed, whereas saltation grains ‘jump’ along the bed in a series of low trajectories. Sediment particles in these three categories collectively form the bedload. The suspended load consists of particles in suspension, i.e. particles that follow long and irregular paths within the water and seldom come in contact with the bed until they are deposited when the flow slackens. Sliding and rolling are prevalent in slower flows, saltation and suspension in faster flows. Sediments are transported as: Bed load transport - The bed load is the part of the total load that is more or less in contact with the bed during the transport. It primarily includes grains that roll (tilt to and fro as they move), slide or bounce along the bed. Thus the bed load movement is governed by the shear velocity at the bed and effective resistance of the sediment particle. Suspended load transport - The suspended load is the part of the total load that is moving in suspension without continuous contact with the bed as a result of agitation of fluid turbulence. Many estuary deposits contain large proportion of fine sediments, which are readily set in motion by tidal currents. 15 The primary transport mode of fine sediments is suspended load and such sediment may amount to 75-95% of the total load in estuaries. Wash load transport - The above two modes of transport together are called total load transport which has effects on the bed morphology. The third mode of transport, wash load is not important as it consists of very fine particles transported in water and not represented in the bed. The rate of sediment transport or sediment flux is the mass of sediment that is moved past a given point or through unit area of the water column in unit time. The total of both bed load and suspended sediment flux is considered as total sediment transport rate. A sediment budget is a balance of the sediment volume entering and exiting a particular section of the coast or an estuary. Sediment budget analysis consists of the evaluation of sediment fluxes, sources and sinks from different processes that give rise to additions and subtractions within a control volume (section of coast or an estuary) in order to gain a better understanding of the coastal or estuarine system. Control volumes on open coasts pertain to sections of a coast which form sediment cells and are controlled by cell boundaries either inhibiting or limiting the amount of transport across the cell boundary. A source increases the quantity of material within the control volume and a sink reduces it and within the cell there may be point sources and sinks (tidal inlets) and line sources and sinks (movements on and off the beach). The inputs are sediments eroded from backshore cliffs by waves, upcurrent beach by alongshore drift, current and rivers. The outputs are sediments transported to backshore dunes by offshore dunes, downcurrent by alongshore drift, current, deep water by tidal currents and waves. 16 1.5 REMOTE SENSING Remote sensing is the technique of deriving information about objects on the surface of the earth without physically coming into contact with them. This process involves making observations using sensors (cameras, scanners, radiometer, radar etc.) mounted on platforms (aircraft and satellites), which are at a considerable height from the earth surface and recording the observations. Remote sensing has enabled mapping, monitoring and management of various resources viz., agriculture, forestry, geology, water, ocean etc. Indian Remote Sensing Satellites (IRS) such as IRS 1A, IRS 1B, IRS 1C, IRS 1D, Cartostat, Oceanstat etc. facilitate a variety of applications including natural resource monitoring, environmental assessments and disaster management related activities. The Indian satellites with their improved spatial resolution, extended spectral range and increased repetivity have opened up new applications in coastal zone. Preliminary analysis of IRS 1C, 1D data indicates that coral reef zonation, identification of tree and shrub mangroves, mudflats, beach, dune vegetation, saline areas, etc. as well as better understanding of suspended sediment patterns are possible. The Panchromatic Satellite (PAN) data combined with the Linear Imaging Self Scanner (LISS) III and LISS IV data are extremely useful in providing detailed spatial information about reclamation, construction activity and ecologically sensitive areas, which are vital for the coastal zone regulatory activities. The information available from merged PAN and LISS III, IV data about coral reef zonation, especially for atolls, patch reef and coral pinnacles, is valuable for coral reef conservation. The distinction between tree and shrub mangroves from LISS III data provides vital information on biodiversity studies (Ramachandran et al 2000). With the development of remote sensing technology, monitoring of water quality from satellites significantly complement the conventional 17 techniques and have found widespread applications. The radiance measurements in different wavelength ranges are subjected to atmospheric corrections. In visible data analysis, the water content is generally divided into three types of constituent: phytoplankton pigments, sediments and dissolved organic matter (Sathyendranath et al 1989). Each of them has a significant and specific signature on water color. Spectral qualities of water bodies are determined by the interaction of the water surface, optical properties of the water due to turbidity, roughness of the surface, angle of observation, illumination and in some instances reflection of light from the bottom. 1.6 NEED FOR THE STUDY During the last two decades, the coastal environment of southeast India has experienced intense developments due to industrial revolution. Kalpakkam, a tiny fishing hamlet dotting the east coast, half way between Chennai and Pondicherry which has become prominent due to the Madras Atomic Power Station (MAPS). Indira Gandhi Centre for Atomic Research (IGCAR) is a premier atomic research centre of India, set up at Kalpakkam. Kalpakkam is bound by Sadras backwater in the south, Edaiyur backwater in the north, Buckingham canal in the west and Bay of Bengal in the east. The MAPS consists of two pressurized heavy water reactors of 235 MWe capacities each. A 500MWe capacity Prototype Fast Breeder Reactor Project (PFBR) at about 680m south of MAPS is proposed to be established. For both MAPS and PFBR units, approach jetties of 468m and 420m length respectively have been constructed. The MAPS jetty also supports a discharge pipeline for low level radioactive effluents discharge. From the outfall point, the discharged warm water from MAPS flowed as a canal and mixed with the sea at the tip of sand spit. The length of this naturally formed discharge canal varied (0.5–2.0 km) with season and was mainly controlled by magnitude and 18 direction of longshore currents and littoral sediment transport (Poornima et al 2005). During transition or southerly drift in the monsoon period, erosion of sand spit opposite to the thermal outfall made the warm water to flow in the direction of the MAPS intake well. It is proposed to have a combined thermal discharge from both PFBR and MAPS and hence an engineering canal of approximately 1.66 km length with a fixed opening has been constructed and at present warm water from MAPS (0.9km) flows through the engineering canal. The shore protection measures at Kalpakkam commenced in 2007 and completed in 2009. During the Asian tsunami in December 2004, the water level at Kalpakkam coast was reported to reach up to a level of +10.8 m (CWPRS 2006). To protect PFBR and MAPS premises from the possible future attack of tsunami, a rubblemound bund approximately at 50 m distance landward of the outfall channel has been constructed. Shore protection work (seawall) has been constructed taking into account 100 year return storm surge and littoral processes. It consists of 800-1000 kg stones in armour in double layer on 1:5 slope to match the existing profile of the beach so that the impact of seawall on the littoral processes is reduced. Kalpakkam also contains a coastal township associated with MAPS and many coastal villages. Mahabalipuram, a world heritage site, also famous as the sixth centre of Pallava art and architecture of south India, is situated 4 km north of the power plant. The shore temple at Mahabalipuram is protected by a seawall constructed in 1968 for a length of approximately 0.5km which protrudes slightly into the sea acting as a headland. With the extent of human intervention on the coastline, the present study aims at understanding the sediment characteristics and its transport along the coast through which the impacts of construction of seawall and engineering canal on sediment dynamics are assessed. 19 1.7 OBJECTIVES OF THE PRESENT STUDY The main objectives of this research are to examine the sediment dynamics of Kalpakkam coast. To divulge the sediment characteristics, weathering trend and provenance history of Kalpakkam To assess the long term and short term shoreline changes along the study area To understand the variations in sediment transport processes in view of the construction of seawall and engineering canal at IGCAR To integrate field observations, satellite data and numerical modeling to elucidate the nearshore dynamics of Kalpakkam 1.8 STUDY AREA 1.8.1 Physiography The study area is situated on the Coromandel Coast at about 70 km south of Chennai and covers approximately 15 km of coastal tract from Sadras to Mahabalipuram (Figure 1.1). It hosts one of India’s nuclear power plant built by Department of Atomic Energy (DAE). Kalpakkam is located in Kancheepuram District of Tamil Nadu with the geographical coordinates of North Latitude 12º 33´ and East Longitude 80º 11´. Kalpakkam is a conglomerate of Puduppattinam, Sadras and a DAE township. Kalpakkam is a tropical coastal station with a gently sloping plain terrain. Kalpakkam falls under Universal Transverse Mercator UTM 44. The shoreline of Kalpakkam is aligned at SSW-NNE and it is open to the Bay of Bengal. 20 21 The area upto 1.6 km from MAPS site is known as exclusion zone and is under the jurisdiction of MAPS. There is no other major industrial complex surrounding Kalpakkam. The coast is experiencing different monsoonal seasons viz., Post monsoon (January to May), Southwest (SW) monsoon (June to September) and Northeast (NE) monsoon (October to December). SW monsoon is also known as Pre monsoon season since the rainfall received is scanty. The study area has a complex ecosystem, which is partly influenced by inputs from River Palar, backwaters of Sadras and Edaiyur that transports effluents from minor urban settlements and industries. In addition, the Buckingham canal runs parallel to the coast carrying urban sewage, pesticides and fertilizers derived from agricultural practices and the salt panning industry. Sadras is connected to the sea during northeast monsoon whereas Edaiyur is kept open through dredging. This coastal tract is represented by low angle, siliclastic beaches with a width of about 50 to 100 m which are backed by coastal sand dunes usually of less than 5 m elevation. The back barrier morphology consists of a variety of geomorphic units such as stranded beach ridges, palaeo-lagoons, palaeo-tidal flats and palaeo barriers (beach ridges) (Anbarasu 1994). These are the features mostly formed due to the recent and ongoing emergence of the coast. Wide rocky patches are present in the seabed on this stretch. There are three types of seabed slopes viz., nearshore waters 0-5m i.e. steep slope 1:20, 6-10 m i.e. moderate slope 1:40 and 10-18 m i.e. flat slope 1:100 occur in this site. Selvaraj and Ram Mohan (2003) indicated that the inner shelf is carpeted with a mosaic of sand and silty sand with minor amounts of clay (maximum 4%). Sediments are poorly sorted and depositional environments are influenced by mixed river/dune/beach conditions. A palaeo-shoreline was 22 identified based on the higher sand (>90%) and CaCO3 (>15%), and very low organic matter contents (<0.4%) at a depth around 50–53 m. 1.8.2 Meteorology The maximum and minimum temperatures would be 46.4°C and 15.7°C for a return period of 100 years. The predominant wind direction in this area is south with a frequency of 16.2%. The predominant wind speed is 12-19km/h with a frequency of 39.7%. The highest instantaneous wind speed (over 1 minute period) recorded was 182km/h on 12.11.1985 when a cyclonic storm crossed the East coast near Kalpakkam. The maximum wind speed at 60m elevation is 100km/h recorded on May 1990, during another cyclonic weather condition. The highest and lowest annual rainfall of 2112 mm and 567.1 mm were recorded during 1985 and 1968 respectively. The study area receives about 62% of its annual rainfall during NE monsoon and 33 % during SW monsoon. 1.8.3 Nearshore Environment Wave hindcasting studies predicted the wave height of 4.8m for 100 year return period and 4.3m for 50 year return period at the coast of Kalpakkam. The direction of current is mainly along the coast, either northward or southward depending on the season and monsoon. The currents are more influenced by the bay circulations generated by southwest and northeast monsoon (CWPRS 2002). The waves are predominantly from SE and SSE directions with 19% and 73% respectively in SW monsoon while from ENE, E, SE and SSE directions with 42%, 26%, 10% and 17% respectively in NE monsoon and from ENE, East, SE and SSE directions with 16%, 20%, 28% and 25% respectively during post monsoon period. High waves upto 3.5m are encountered in most of the occasions. The longshore 23 transport takes place upto about 300m from the shore. In a field study conducted by CWPRS (2002), semi-diurnal tides with spring and neap tides upto 1.22m and 0.25m respectively were observed. The tidal currents are quite weak (average around 0.03m/s) and do not exhibit any correlation with the tide or tidal phase. 1.8.4 Geology The geological setup of Kalpakkam area consists of Charnockite suite of rocks and Pyroxene granulites of Archean age as a basement overlain by recent coastal alluviam with an unconformity. The bedrock occurs at about 10 - 15m depth in this region. MAPS and PFBR are located in the formation of coastal alluvium. Generally, the bedrock occurs as wave cut platform or ridge parallel to the coast. The rocks are medium to coarse grained, with major mineral constituent as quartz, feldspar and pyroxene. The rocks are of igneous and metamorphic origin and can be identified as charnockite, gneiss and granite with crystals of garnet distributed in rock specimen. The Kalpakkam site falls at the depositional environment by the floods and coastal processes. 1.8.5 Power Plant Operation The MAPS consists of two pressurized heavy water reactors, of 235 MWe capacity each (presently derated to 170 MWe), Units I and II became operational on 23rd July, 1983 and 18th September, 1985 respectively. It has a comprehensive nuclear power production, fuel reprocessing, and waste treatment facility that includes plutonium fuel fabrication for fast breeder reactors. It is India’s first fully indegenously constructed nuclear power station. The station has reactors housed in a reactor building with double shell 24 containment ensuring total protection even in the remotest possibility of loss of coolant accident. The Kalpakkam Atomic Reprocessing Plant (KARP) facility, with a capacity 100 tonne per annum, with several novel features and concepts, was successfully commissioned at Kalpakkam in 1998. It reprocesses spent fuel from the reactors. MAPS uses the coastal waters of the Bay of Bengal as a heat sink. It operates based on once through cooling system wherein the water is drawn from an intake point in the sea, used in the heat exchangers for rejecting waste heat, and then released back in to the sea at a location away from the intake point. The seawater cooling system consists of an intake structure (located 420 m away from the shore in the sea), tunnel (468 m long and 3.8 m in diameter) and fore-bay drawing seawater at the rate of 35m³/s. The tunnel connects the fore-bay and pump house to the intake structure. From the intake shaft, water flows by gravity into the fore-bay where 12 pumps draw and circulate the seawater through the condensers and other heat exchangers. The coolant flow, when all the 12 pumps are running, is about 3 m/s (MAPS Design Manual 1975). The intake point is guarded by steel weld mesh screens to prevent the entry of large objects into the cooling circuit. The intake point is accessible from land through an approach jetty. The intake well is located at the end of the jetty. After passing through the steam condensers and other auxiliary heat exchangers, the seawater is discharged onshore through an outfall structure (situated on the northern side of the jetty). A schematic illustration of the power plant operation is shown in Figure 1.2 modified after Anupkumar et al (2005). From the outfall point, the discharged seawater flows through the engineering canal before it mixes with the sea. Figure 1.3 shows MAPS discharge prior to construction of the engineering canal. The main condenser 25 of each unit is designed for a T (temperature difference between inlet and outlet) of 10ºC. Figure 1.4 depicts the seawall at Mahabalipuram. The outfall discharge of the existing MAPS plant is 35m3/s, while the discharge from PFBR outfall is estimated as 29m3/s. The combined discharge (64m3/s) will be having a maximum flow velocity of 2 m/s (CWPRS 2006). Figure 1.2 Schematic of MAPS Operation 26 27 Figure 1.4 Aerial and Photographic View of Mahabalipuram 1.9 ORGANIZATION OF THE THESIS This thesis has seven chapters. Chapter 1 gives an introduction to the processes involved in sediment transport, reasons for taking up the study, objectives of the research and an overview of activities IGCAR, Kalpakkam. Chapter 2 presents a detailed literature review of all the aspects considered in the study. Chapter 3 discusses the methodology which includes sampling strategy, data collection, softwares used and data interpretation methods. Textural characteristics and weathering pattern of the sediments are described in Chapter 4. In Chapter 5, shoreline dynamics of Kalpakkam coast has been discussed. Chapter 6 throws light on the variations in sediment transport and the underlying processes. Finally in Chapter 7, the summary and conclusions of the research and recommendations for future study are presented.
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