LUCKY HOME INSPECTION, LLC.
吉利房屋檢驗有限公司
℡ (718) 577-1537
About The
Home Inspection
(New York State)
ABOUT THE “HOME INSPECTION” (NEW YORK STATE)
Page 2 of 20
【For Buyer】
Home Inspection: General Information
What Is a Home Inspection?
Home Inspection is defined as the process by which a home inspector observes and provides
a written report of the systems and components of a residential building including but not
limited to:
1. Heating System
2. Cooling System
3. Plumbing System
4. Electrical System
5. Structural Components – foundation, roof, masonry structure, exterior and interior
components or any other related residential building component recommended by
the Home Inspection Council and implemented by the Department through the
regulatory process.
In New York State, who can provide home inspection of residential buildings for
compensation?
Real Property Law was amended September 2004 by adding a new Article 12-B “The Home
Inspection Professional Licensing Act.” Starting December 31, 2005 a license issued by the
NYS Department of State (DOS) will be required for persons engaged in performing home
inspections of residential buildings for compensation. Exempt from this licensure requirement
are architects and professional engineers licensed and currently registered by the NYS Office of
Professions who are lawfully practicing within the scope of their profession. For more
information on the Home Inspection Professional Licensing Act, visit the Department of
Education’s website at http://www.op.nysed.gov/pefaq.htm
Is there a liability insurance requirement?
Yes, §444-K (1) of the “Home Inspection Professional Licensing Act” requires that every
licensed home inspector who is engaged in home inspection shall secure, maintain, and file
with the Secretary proof of a certificate of liability coverage. Applicants must submit proof of
general liability insurance which shall be a minimum amount of $150,000 per occurrence and
$500,000 aggregate.
Are Home Inspections Required?
Home inspections are an extra expense and usually optional, so do you really
need one?
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ABOUT THE “HOME INSPECTION” (NEW YORK STATE)
Page 3 of 20
Probably, YES! Money might be tight for closing, but try to imagine moving in and finding
out that the air conditioning unit isn't capable of cooling the house, or that portions of
the electrical system are substandard, or that the chimney needs immediate repairs,
etc.
It's a brand new home. There won't be any problems.
Maybe, in a perfect world, new construction isn't always problem-free.
What if the Inspection Finds Out Problems?
First, your offer to purchase should have included a detailed statement regarding your rights
to a home inspection. The standard contract used by real estate agents may give you the right
to back out of a contract if a home inspection uncovers more problems than you are willing to
deal with. If it does not, the wording should be added in the form of a contingency.
Don't assume the seller will make every repair you ask for. They may refuse to make any
repairs at all. Read your contract carefully before signing it so that you understand the rights
and obligations of all parties. Never rely on a verbal agreement--agreements must be in
writing to be valid.
Who's the best person for the job?
Experienced inspectors have seen hundreds, or even thousands, of homes and have the
routine down-pat. They know exactly what to look for, including all the little quick-fix tricks.
My brother can do it.
Some people truly do have a friend or family member who can perform an inspection. But
even though your brother may have some building experience he may not have the
equipment or expertise required to do a thorough evaluation of the home. What if he misses
a major problem? Will it create hard feelings within the family?
I'm in love with this house, so it doesn't matter.
So much in love that you're ignoring problems? An inspector takes a clinical look at the house.
You'll get only the facts, and that's what you need to make decisions about going forward
with the purchase. If you don't really care what problems you might run into, go ahead.
You're the only one who can determine how much time, energy and money you can devote
to the house. But keep in mind that an inspection that uncovers safety issues can help you
prioritize repairs.
©2008 Lucky Home Inspection, LLC.
All Rights Reserved.
ABOUT THE “HOME INSPECTION” (NEW YORK STATE)
Page 4 of 20
Tips to Finding a Qualified Home Inspector
Here are a few ways you can protect yourself from hiring an unqualified inspector:
Ask for Credentials and Qualifications
1. License – Effective December 31, 2005, the New York State Real Property Law is
amended by adding a new Article 12-B, "The Home Inspection Professional Licensing
Act". Performing the home inspections in New York State, the NYS Home Inspector
Licensure will be required effective December 31, 2005. While you are ordering the
home inspection service, please make sure the inspector you are hiring must be a New
York State licensed home inspector.
2. Referral – There is no shortage of home inspector. Ask friends, lawyer, and/or your
real estate agent for a recommendation, and then double check that inspector's
qualifications. Some inexperienced agents recommend inferior inspectors because they
don't want a full-blown inspection that could blow their deal. Reputable agents demand
qualified inspectors because they want their buyer informed.
Are all Inspection Reports the same?
No. While the Home Inspector Licensure Board has not defined a standard for the report
writing and format, Home Inspection Reports can vary greatly. They can range from a
"checklist" of the systems and components to a full narrative evaluation or any
combination of the two. Home Inspectors are required to give you a written "Home
Inspection Report" (within five working days after the inspection date) of their inspection
identifying any system or component that does not function as intended, or adversely
affects the habitability of the dwelling, or appears to warrant further investigation by a
specialist. The summary does not necessarily include all items that have been found to be
defective or deficient. Therefore, do not read only the summary. Carefully read and
understand the entire home inspection report.
Request and Review a Sample Home Inspection Report
A home inspector should be able to e-mail you a copy of a sample report. If it's three or
four pages long, don't hire that person. While lengths and formats of reports may vary,
comprehensive reports average are between 20 and 50 pages and containing color
photographs which highlighting defects or problems.
Inquire About the Length of Your Home Inspection
To do an adequate job, most home inspections take at least two to three hours, sometimes
even longer. Therefore, ask your R.E. Agent and/or Seller to reserve enough time
and to make sure all interior units will be available (readily accessible) when
arranging the Home Inspection Schedule.
©2008 Lucky Home Inspection, LLC.
All Rights Reserved.
ABOUT THE “HOME INSPECTION” (NEW YORK STATE)
Page 5 of 20
Ask to Attend the Home Inspection
If your schedule is such that you can't be present during the entire home inspection, you
owe it yourself to be there for the last 30 minutes. Let the inspector walk you through the
home to point out defects. Use this opportunity to ask questions about which noted "action
items" are minor and which are major.
Don't Hire Inspectors Who Recommend Contractors or Perform Repairs
Home inspectors are in the business of inspecting homes. If a home inspector offers to
direct you to a contractor to perform work, that inspector could be creating a conflict of
interest. Some state regulations and inspector associations allow an inspector to
undertake specified repairs, but I don't recommend hiring such an inspector.
©2008 Lucky Home Inspection, LLC.
All Rights Reserved.
ABOUT THE “HOME INSPECTION” (NEW YORK STATE)
Page 6 of 20
【For Seller】
Top 10 Things to Do to Get Ready for a Home Inspection
Are you selling your home soon? To get the best price, take some time right now to get it ready
to sell. Some local governments require that the seller provide the buyer with a detailed home
inspection while giving the buyer the option to obtain her own inspection. In other parts of the
country, the seller provides only disclosures and the buyer pays for her own home inspection.
Whether you're producing a seller's home inspection for the buyer or expecting the buyer's
home inspector to show up on your doorsteps, it's best to be thoroughly prepared.
1. Clean the House
This sounds so simple yet home owners often overlook this tactic. Home inspectors are people
first and inspectors second. As people, they carry preconceived ideas of how well a home has
been maintained. Clean homes say you care and take care of the house.
2. Be On Time Because the Inspector Will Be
Sometimes home inspectors are early. If an inspector makes an appointment with you for 9:00
a.m., have the house ready for inspection at 8:30. It's also common for inspectors to start on
the exterior of the home, so leave the shades down or drapes drawn until you are dressed.
More than one unprepared seller has been "surprised" by a stranger stomping around in the
back yard.
3. Leave the Utilities Connected
The home inspector will need to turn on the stove, run the dishwasher, test the furnace and air
conditioning, so leave the utilities on, especially if the house is vacant. It's impossible to check
receptacles for grounding and reverse polarity if the power is turned off. Without utilities, the
inspector will have to report “failure to test” and/or “further investigation needed” statement;
which could delay the closing of your transaction and/or the removal of the buyer's home
inspection contingency.
4. Provide Workspace Around Furnace and Water Heaters
Remove boxes, bookcases, furniture and anything else blocking access to your furnace, air
conditioner and water heater. The inspector will need three to four feet of working space to
inspect these items.
5. Keep Pilot Lights Ignited
Many home inspectors will refuse to light pilot lights because they are not covered for that type
of liability. If your pilot lights are not lit, then important items such as the water heater, gas
stove or furnace will not be inspected and the buyer could delay closing until those inspections
are completed.
©2008 Lucky Home Inspection, LLC.
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ABOUT THE “HOME INSPECTION” (NEW YORK STATE)
Page 7 of 20
6. Provide Access to Attic and Garage
The inspector will need to get into your basement and/or attic as well, so keep a path cleared.
Move boxes away from the walls. Vacuum spider webs.
7. Leave Keys for Outbuildings and Electrical Boxes
Leave the remote controls for your garage door opener or a key if the garage is unattached to
the house. Unlock the covers for your sprinkler system and electrical box. Leave a key for
exterior building access.
8. Clear Away Brush from Exterior Inspection Points
Nobody expects you to shovel a tunnel around your home if snow drifts are blocking the
foundation but, in the winter, do provide a path around the house. In the summer, cut down
dead tree branches and clear brush from the foundation. Move trash cans away from the
house.
9. Provide Repair Documents
Make available to the home inspector all invoices and documents regarding remodeling
projects or new items such as a roof or furnace. If you've upgraded the electrical from
ungrounded to grounded, installed a new dishwasher or repaired a leaky faucet, find the
paperwork. It will give the buyer peace of mind to know those items were re-inspected.
10. Prepare to be Away for Three Hours Minimum
Often the buyer will accompany the home inspector, and buyers feel uncomfortable asking
questions if the owner is present. Try to schedule a time for the inspection when you can be out
of the house, and take the children with you. Crate your pets if you cannot remove them from
the premises.
Five Home Improvements That Help You Sell
While you may need to tackle some basic repair issues first, these simpler cosmetic
improvements can help polish up your home and set the tone for a quicker sale.
Remember to put yourself in the shoes of a potential buyer before your house is listed for sale.
Look critically at your space to see what might be updated, cleared out, or spruced up. Many
times there are simple fixes that will make all the difference.
1. Put Clutter in Storage
For the rest of us however, it bears repeating that hiding your home’s good features behind
piles of clutter will only make it harder for buyer’s to fall in love with your home. Box up
anything you won’t be using in the next few months (including holiday decorations, seasonal
clothing or sports equipment, old toys, etc.) and send it to a storage facility. While you’re at it,
take a look at your furniture and remove any pieces that look less-than-perfect or make a
room feel crowded.
©2008 Lucky Home Inspection, LLC.
All Rights Reserved.
ABOUT THE “HOME INSPECTION” (NEW YORK STATE)
Page 8 of 20
2. Welcome Buyers at the Door
Step outside and take a look at the front door. Potential buyers will likely spend at least a few
minutes here as the realtor gets out the keys to your home. Make sure the door is clean and
that any glass is sparkling. Polish the hardware (or replace if necessary) and repaint the door
if it is in poor shape. Finally, add a fresh doormat, mailbox, and pretty pots of greenery or
flowers on either side of the door.
3. Remove Outdated Window Treatments
Dreary draperies, torn window shades, or bent mini-blinds will do nothing to sell a home faster.
Remove these outdated items and replace them with simple
white mini-blinds or wood blinds cut-to-measure at a home center. This is a fairly simple fix
that can refresh your rooms in just one weekend.
4. Install Closet Systems
Crowded closets stuffed with clothing and household items make it look like there isn’t enough
storage. Instead, go through closets and store (or give away) anything that’s not currently
needed. Once the closet is empty, install a closet system from a home center and refill with
just enough of your stuff so the closet looks organized, but not cluttered.
5. Showcase Wood Flooring
Worn, dirty, or badly colored carpeting can turn buyers off in seconds. If you have hardwood
floors however, the fix is easy; Tear out the carpeting and expose the wood. Buyers won’t have
to wonder what’s underneath the carpet and will likely love the look and patina of hardwood
flooring.
©2008 Lucky Home Inspection, LLC.
All Rights Reserved.
ABOUT THE “HOME INSPECTION” (NEW YORK STATE)
Page 9 of 20
Home Selling Advice – Getting Through the Home Inspection
Nearly all home buyers hire a professional home inspector to take a close look at their new
house before closing. You can speed things along by analyzing the condition of your home and
making necessary repairs now, before the house is under contract.
Whole-home inspections cover numerous systems within the house, but there are a handful of
hot-spots that seem to worry buyers the most:
Mold and Mildew
Mildew odors signal that area is too moist. Mildew stains and odors scare buyers, especially
now that toxic black mold is such a hot topic, and chances are you won't even get an
acceptable offer if mold and mildew are present. Even if the mold in your house is the
normal variety kill it and fix the source of the problem.
Buyers and home inspectors will look closely at the walls and floors for patches of mildew
and signs of dampness. The inspector might use a meter to determine how much moisture
is present in these spaces, because moisture deteriorates building materials and attracts
insects.
Cover exposed earth in basements and crawl spaces with plastic to help keep moisture
levels down.
Damp Basements and Crawlspaces
Most foundation "leaks" we see are a result of poor drainage that funnels water towards
the foundation. Make sure gutters are clean so that rainwater flows toward downspouts
instead of spilling over gutter sides along the foundation. Point drainage downspouts away
from the house.
Check water flow through buried drainage lines by flooding them with water from a hose.
If water comes back towards you the line is plugged and should be cleared.
If foundation problems do exist, and you cannot make repairs, you might need to lower the
price of the house upfront, with the understanding that the price reflects the problem.
Another option is to give the buyers an allowance to make repairs after closing.
Roofs and Chimneys
Deteriorated shingles or other roof coverings are one of the first things home buyers and
home inspectors notice. If the elements underneath the shingles are moist or rotted, you
can bet repairs will be requested.
Make sure flashing around the base of the chimney is watertight, and that mortar and
bricks are in good condition.
Inspect the fireplace to make sure it is functioning properly.
©2008 Lucky Home Inspection, LLC.
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ABOUT THE “HOME INSPECTION” (NEW YORK STATE)
Page 10 of 20
Plumbing Problems
Fix leaks long before the home inspection takes place. The inspector will check water
pressure by turning on multiple faucets and flushing toilets at the same time. The
inspector will also run the dishwasher.
Make available to the home inspector all invoices and documents regarding cesspool
and/or septic tank maintenance records and their locations; in many cases, the inspector
will also need your instruction for the location of main portable water line shutoff, main
waste water line (sewer) cleanout, sump pit, sump pump, cesspool, and/or septic tank.
Inadequate or Inferior Electrical Systems
The electrical panel and circuit breaker configuration should be adequate for the needs of
the house. The inspector will look for receptacles with ground fault circuit interrupters (GFI)
in kitchen, bathroom, basement, laundry, outdoors, and garage. These receptacles
contain mini circuit breakers that click off during a short circuit or overload. The home
inspector will likely make sure the receptacles are what they appear to be, and not
"dummies" that aren't wired correctly. The inspector will test a portion of the remaining
receptacles in the house.
Other Important Home Inspection Checks
The home inspector will check the heating and cooling systems, making sure they work
and commenting about their efficiency.
The home inspector will take a close look at the structure and foundation.
The home inspector will check appliances that remain with the house, including smoke/CO
detectors.
Before the Home Inspection
Do everything you can to get the house in good condition before you attempt to sell it, but
don't be discouraged if the inspection report contains a few negative statements. Home
inspectors make note of everything they saw.
Remember that the Home Inspection Report is not a wish-list for buyers. Read your contract
carefully, it dictates which systems should be in good working order at closing. If the roof is
older, but doesn't leak, it's in good working condition. The same is true for older appliances.
Your contract may also state that you are under no obligation to make any repair at all even
though the buyers can then likely withdraw from the contract. Don't feel you must comply with
unreasonable demands for repairs.
©2008 Lucky Home Inspection, LLC.
All Rights Reserved.
ABOUT THE “HOME INSPECTION” (NEW YORK STATE)
Page 11 of 20
【For Home Owner】
Preventive Home Maintenance
The following valuable suggestions will show you the basics of preventive home maintenance.
Housing experts recommend setting aside 1 to 3 percent of the market value of your house
each year to pay for maintenance and repair costs. While all of these funds may not be needed
if your home is new, the accumulated amounts will help you pay for large future expenses,
such as re-roofing or replacing a heating or air conditioning unit.
Home maintenance helps provide a healthy, safe environment in which you and your family
and live. It also is an important part of protecting your financial investment and helping to
insure that the investment grows. It is much easier to prevent the development of unsafe,
unhealthy conditions and structural damage than to pay medical or repair bills or both.
Regular home maintenance minimized unexpected repair work and the associated expense.
Regular maintenance and repair help keep costs down by fixing small problems before them
become larger problems.
There are a variety of actions involved in home maintenance. Home maintenance includes
routine care of the home, such as cleaning roof and gutters cleaning or painting outside wall
surfaces, cleaning floors and walls, vacuuming carpet, keeping sinks and shower drains
running freely, and other similar activities.
Home repair involves fixing things that have broken or are worn out in the home. Home repair
actions include replacing broken glass in windows or doors, replacing warped or worn shingles,
repairing a cracked sidewalk or driveway, replacing worn out faucets, repairing a broken stair
rail, etc.
The beginning of home maintenance is the inspection of the home. You should inspect your
home regularly. It’s best if you can set up a schedule to inspect at least one area of your home
each month. At the very least, you should inspect your home and yard thoroughly at least once
every 6 months.
Maintenance and repair should be done as soon as the problem appears. This
sooner-the-better practice helps prevent further damage and keeps repair costs down.
©2008 Lucky Home Inspection, LLC.
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ABOUT THE “HOME INSPECTION” (NEW YORK STATE)
Page 12 of 20
In general, there are 10 areas of the home that require routine inspection for home
maintenance and repair. These include:
Heating System
Cooling System
Plumbing System
Electrical System
Structure
Foundation
Roof
Masonry Structure
Exterior Components
Interior Components
; Inspect around the outside of your home to make sure that water drains away from the
foundations walls. Gutters and downspouts should keep water from pooling around the
foundation where it can create a moisture problem. Be sure that your gutters and downspouts
are clean and in good repair.
; Trim shrubs and bushes away from the foundation walls. Landscape plants shouldn’t block
free air flow through the crawl space vents. Keep foliage at least 5 feet from the foundation.
; Check masonry foundation walls for cracks or weakened, crumbling mortar.
; Examine main support beams, support columns, and floor joists for evidence of bowing or
warping.
; Check wood structural members, such as joists, beams, and columns, with a screwdriver or
pocket knife t o be sure wood is solid and free from decay. If you have the moisture meter
check wood for moisture content. Wood with the moisture content of 20 percent or above is
susceptible to decay.
; Check the inside and outside of all foundation walls and piers for termite tubes and damage.
You may choose to have a pest control company do this each year.
; Check that the crawl space vapor barrier is in good condition and place correctly. A vapor
barrier is usually 6 or 8 -mil polyethylene that covers 70-100 percent of the crawl space
depending on the severity of the moisture problem.
; Make sure the basement is dry. Look for water stains or signs of dampness on the basement
walls. Even if floors and walls are dry, a damp or musty smell may indicate seasonal wetness.
; Make sure that foundation vents aren’t obstructed by items inside the crawl space or
landscaping outside the crawl space. There should be free air flow throughout the crawl.
; Make sure that you clean leaves and debris away from the condenser. Any landscaping
materials that surround should be trimmed to allow for adequate air movement.
; Doorways, below grade window wells, and storm drains should be cleaned of debris.
©2008 Lucky Home Inspection, LLC.
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ABOUT THE “HOME INSPECTION” (NEW YORK STATE)
Page 13 of 20
; Examine your deck for signs of wear. Check the finish — changes in color may indicate that
the finish is wearing away, fading due to sunlight or mold and mildew growth. Through proper
maintenance, decks can keep their original appearance.
; Driveways and walks should be checked for cracks, breaks, or erosion that may damage
those un-repaired cracks can lead to further damage. Unless you have the skill and equipment
to correct a concrete or asphalt problem, it is often best to hire a reputable contractor.
; Fences, gates, and retaining walls should be checked for ease of operation, condition of
structure, and materials. Make repairs as needed.
; Check bricks or blocks for cracked mortar or loose joints.
; Check siding for loose or missing pieces, lifting or warping, or signs of mildew.
; Check painted surfaces for signs of paint failure (including peeling, chipping, blistering,
chalking), water damage and mildew.
; Examine all trim for tightness of fit, damage, or decay.
; Check the condition of caulking where two different materials, meet, such as where wood
siding joins the foundation wall, at insides corners, and where window and door trim meets the
siding. Check the windows for cracked or broken glass, loose putty around the glass panes,
holes in screens, and evidence of moisture between pane and storm windows. Check that
windows and doors close properly. Examine all hardware on windows and doors, and lubricate
moving parts. Check weather stripping on windows and doors for damage and tightness of fit.
Make sure that all window and door locks work properly. Each exterior door should have a
one-inch deadbolt lock (no key needed to access from inside) for safety.
; Trim back tree branches that scrape against or overhang the roof. Keep branches away from
chimney to avoid fire hazard and allow proper draft for safe and efficient chimney operation.
Check for curled, damaged, loose or missing shingles. Check the lower edge of roof sheathing
for water damage.
; Examine all roof flashing and the flashing around chimneys, vent stacks, roof edges,
dormers, and skylights. Make sure the chimney cap is in good condition and that it is tall
enough to prevent creosote build-up.
; Check vents and louvers for free air movement. Clean screens and remove bird nests,
spiders, insects and dust. If there are wind turbines on the roof, check ball bearings. Clear
gable vents of bird’s nests and other obstructions.
; Check for damaged gutters, downspouts, hangers and strainers. If needed, clean out
gutters and downspouts. Make sure they are free from leaks and rust. Check condition of paint
on gutters.
©2008 Lucky Home Inspection, LLC.
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ABOUT THE “HOME INSPECTION” (NEW YORK STATE)
Page 14 of 20
; Check all ceilings and walls for cracks, loose or failing plaster, signs of leaks or stains, dirt
and finish damage. Check for cracks where ceilings join walls and where moldings attach to
ceilings and walls. Check for odor or visible evidence of mildew or mold. Check for finish
damage around cabinet pulls.
; Examine all joints in ceramic tiles and laminated plastics for adequate caulking. Look for
cracked or discolored tiles. Check caulking around sinks, bathtubs and showers. Some types of
caulking become brittle with age and therefore useless as a water seal. Replace with a
long-lasting resilient caulking material, such as silicone or latex.
; Check all floors for wear and damage. Notice if floors are level, bowed or squeak when
walked upon. Be sure to check areas where one type of flooring materials meets another, such
as where carpet or wood joins tile. On stairs, check for loose treads, handrails or carpeting.
; Check condition of lamps cords, extension cords, and plugs. Also examine the appliance
cords and plugs of all appliances, including washers and dryers, vacuums, mixers, and irons.
Check for exposed wires and signs of wear in the “Electrical Service Panel”. If you have a fuse
that blows often or a circuit breaker that trips frequently, call an electrician to determine the
cause and make the repair. Mark each circuit so you will know what outlets or appliances are
included on each. If you experience a slight tingling shock when handling or inspecting any
appliance or lamp, disconnect the appliance and repair it. Check place where wiring is exposed,
such as in the attic. Look for exposed wires and wires with cracked insulation. Replace those in
poor condition. If you have ground fault circuit interrupters (GFCI’s) in outlets (near sinks,
kitchen, laundry, garage, etc.) check them monthly and after an electrical storm.
; Have heating and cooling systems checked by a qualified service person at least once a year
or according to the manufacturer’s warranty and service recommendations. Failure to do
manufacturer recommended servicing may void warranties. Clean or replace filters. Check
your owner’s manual for recommended procedures. Some filters should be replaced as often
as once a month. Clean dirt and dust from around furnaces, air grills and ducts.
; Regularly clean out fireplace ash pit. Have the chimney checked each fall before you use it.
A build up of creosote and soot can be very dangerous. If you use your fireplace or wood stove
regularly, a yearly cleaning is recommended. Seek help from professional fire fighters or
chimney inspectors if you have any doubt about he chimney safety.
; Check faucet and hose connections under sinks and toilets. Look for leaks at shut-off valves
at sinks, toilets, laundry equipment, and main water shut-off valve. Make sure the water
pressure is adequate and that drains run freely. In the basement or crawls pace, pull back floor
insulation or check for leaks and wood damage around water supply pipes, drains, and water
closet. Check sinks, tubs, and showers for proper drainage. Remove hair from drains. It may
be necessary to consult a plumber for plumbing problems.
©2008 Lucky Home Inspection, LLC.
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ABOUT THE “HOME INSPECTION” (NEW YORK STATE)
Page 15 of 20
; Check the temperature and pressure relief (pop-off) valve on the water heater. Open it once
a year to see that it is working. You may want to have a plumber to show you how to do this
the first time you do it. Check your water heater for signs of leaking or rusting. Some
manufacturers recommend that a small amount of water be drained periodically from the tank.
; Test smoke alarm and carbon monoxide alarms monthly. Replace batteries at least once a
year or sooner if needed. If your smoke alarm is over 10 years old, you should replace it. Keep
a fire extinguisher handy for use in the kitchen and near any wood-burning stove or fireplace.
Check the extinguisher gauge for proper pressure. And, keep flashlights handy and in
operating condition.
; Make sure outside security lighting is in good repair. Lighting exteriors grounds helps
discourage prowlers.
If you do have to make repairs, you must decide if you will complete them yourself or hire a
qualified repair person. The homeowner who does his or her own maintenance and repairs
saves money. You can learn about home maintenance and repair from a variety of sources,
including:
1. Manufacturers use and care booklets and care guides from repair and cleaning
products.
2. Cooperative Extension home maintenance and repair publications:
3. Do-it-yourself (DIY) publications — these are often available for free in builder supply,
home improvement or hardware stores.
4. Home maintenance and repair books and videos — these are available from libraries,
bookstores, and home improvement stores.
5. Local home improvement stores — these stores often have weekend workshops and
even web sites that offer home maintenance and repair information and how-to
projects.
If you do not have the time, skills or interest in maintaining and repairing your home, be sure
to hire a qualified, experienced repair person to do the work. Here are some tips for finding a
contractor:
1. Ask friends to recommend repair contractors.
2. Get at least 3 written estimates for the project. Most contractors give free estimates.
3. If licensing is required, ask to see the contractor’s license and proof of insurance and
bonding.
4. Do not pay for the work in full before the work is done. It is not uncommon to put pay
a small down payment.
©2008 Lucky Home Inspection, LLC.
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ABOUT THE “HOME INSPECTION” (NEW YORK STATE)
Page 16 of 20
5. Ask the contractor about the warranty and get a signed written agreement before work
begins and money is exchanged.
6. The contractor’s agreement should specify work to be done and payment schedules. It
should also detail the type of work to be completed.
7. Do not make final payments on the project until the work has been performed to your
satisfaction.
8. Check with the Better Business Bureau or the Attorney General’s Office if you have any
questions or complaints about a contractor.
Regardless of who does the work, regular inspection and maintenance of your home will keep
your home in good condition and maintain its value. Remember, a home can’t take care of
itself.
©2008 Lucky Home Inspection, LLC.
All Rights Reserved.
ABOUT THE “HOME INSPECTION” (NEW YORK STATE)
Page 17 of 20
Termite Inspection DIY
What does a termite inspection entail?
A termite inspection is a visual inspection of the readily accessible areas of a home for evidence
of wood-destroying insects (WDI) and wood-destroying organisms (WDO). The inspector will
visually inspect the entire interior of a home (including accessing and entering any sub-space
such as basements and crawlspaces) and exterior of the property. In areas where Drywood
termites are prevalent, and in houses where there are no sub-areas, the attic may also be
accessed and inspected. After the inspection has been performed, the findings are reported on
the applicable/appropriate form.
How long does an inspection take?
The average termite or pest inspection takes approximately 30 to 45 minutes for a thorough
inspection, depending on the size and conditions (e.g. clutter; storage of personal items, etc.)
of the home and property.
Can termites live in colder climates?
Yes, termites have been found throughout the United States, even in Alaska! Cold weather
does not kill them off; rather it slows them down or causes them to go into a hibernation state.
As a matter of fact, it has been reported that 1 out of every 15 houses in the Chicago area have
termite infestations.
Why inspect the attic if termites stay close to the ground?
The termite inspection is actually an inspection for wood-destroying insects and organisms.
The inspector is also looking for ants, bugs and fungus. Sometimes, in areas where Drywood
termites are prevalent, and in houses where there are no sub-areas, the attic may also be
accessed and inspected. Inspectors routinely look in the attic area for Drywood termite pellets
(fecal matter), which are oblong, vary in color from light gray to very dark brown, and are only
2 to 3 millimeters long. They generally accumulate on surfaces or in spider webs near the
eaves area of the attic.
What do termites look like?
Subterranean termite colonies consist of three different castes – reproductives, workers and
soldiers. All of the Subterranean termites are generally creamy white in appearance and are
translucent, looking very much in size, shape and color as a grain of rice. The reproductives, or
“swarmers,” have a pair of even-sized wings and are often mistaken for flying ants. The
workers look similar to the “swarmers,” only they are a little smaller and do not have wings.
The soldiers are also similar except for their oversized heads and large, crushing mandibles.
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What is the difference between carpenter ants and termites?
There are a number of differences between carpenter ants and termites. The body shape of a
carpenter ant is like an hourglass; it narrows between the abdomen in the rear and the thorax
in the front. The body of a termite is more cigar-shaped without the narrowing between the
front and back halves of the body. When wings are present, carpenter ants have larger wings
in the front and smaller wings in the back, whereas termite "swarmers" have relatively
equal-sized wings. Carpenter ant wings are less "veiny" than termite wings. Also, ant wings
have a stigma (dark spot) on the leading edge of the front wing, and termite wings do not.
Carpenter ant antennae are bent or curved, while termite antennae are relatively straight. Also,
termites eat the wood they tunnel through and ants do not.
How do you treat termites?
There are several methods available to treat Subterranean termites. A chemical treatment is
the most common treatment type available for Subterranean termites. The goal of a
Subterranean termite chemical treatment is to establish a continuous termiticide barrier
between the termite colony (usually in the soil) and wood in a building. This is done by placing
termiticide in the soil on both sides of all foundation elements to provide a barrier preventing
termites from entering the structure. Technicians trench the soil and inject termiticide
beneath it at 16-inch intervals. They also drill into hollow masonry block foundations and
inject termiticide into the block voids. This creates a protective barrier around the property.
In-ground baiting systems are also becoming a popular method for treatment of Subterranean
termites. A subterranean termite baiting system involves placement of cellulose (wood
material) bait stations at strategic locations around the perimeter of the home. Worker
termites, which constantly forage for wood to feed their colony, locate the cellulose bait
stations and leave special scent trails to summon their mates to the food source. The cellulose
material in the bait station is then replaced with a chemical inhibitor, retarding the molting
process in termites and preventing them from growing. The carrier termites then bring the
chemical back to the colony and, if everything goes well, spread the inhibitor throughout the
remainder of the colony. Because of the growth inhibitor, the carrier and the rest of the colony
will die.
Could there be hidden termite damage?
Absolutely! One of the main characteristics of termites and termite colonies is their tendency
to avoid open air and bright lights, meaning they will stay underground or within wood
products. It is almost impossible for an inspector to visually identify or locate an active termite
infestation just by looking at the finished surface of a wall or the accompanying trim.
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What can I do to prevent termite infestation?
The current standard method of preventing termite infestation on newly constructed homes is
to have a pest control contactor visit the home and spray a liquid termiticide over the entire
foundation area prior to the concrete being poured. The building sciences are continually
coming up with new methods of infestation prevention. A homeowner could also make
post-construction adjustments to the home that is less conducive to an infestation of
wood-destroying insects.
Common conditions that are conducive to an infestation are: earth to wood contact at support
posts; cellulose debris and form boards left in the crawlspace; improper drainage away from
the structure; and inadequate ventilation in the crawlspace. Correction of these conditions will
greatly reduce the likelihood of an infestation.
Why do I have to treat if there are no live termites?
If there is evidence of a termite infestation and no evidence of a termite treatment having been
done, the inspector must report that the infestation is active, which means in need of
treatment, even though no live insects were discovered.
Does the termite inspection cover all types of wood-destroying organisms?
This depends mostly on state and local code. Most states use the NPCA-1 Wood Destroying
Inspect Infestation Inspection Report, which limits its scope to the inspection of termites,
carpenter ants, carpenter bees, and re-infesting wood-boring beetles.
Is a termite inspection included with the cost of a general home inspection?
No, it is not. The initial cost of a general home inspection does not include any other
inspections.
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All Rights Reserved.
ABOUT THE “HOME INSPECTION” (NEW YORK STATE)
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Carpenter Ants
The carpenter ant hollows out wood to create nests called galleries. Though they do not eat the
wood, the boring activity can lead to structural damage in wood components. The by-product
of the boring is called frass and looks similar to sawdust or pencil shavings. Frass is the most
common evidence of carpenter ant infestation.
Carpenter ants are similar in appearance to the common pavement ants, but can be
distinguished by certain physical characteristics. The carpenter ant has a single pinched node
between the abdomen and the thorax, while most ants have a dual node. In addition, the
profile of the section from the abdomen to the head is almost perfectly rounded. Carpenter
ants are especially common in the Northwest and the Pacific Northwest.
Treatment
The most thorough and effective way to treat a carpenter ant infestation is to locate the nest
(colony) or nests and directly apply an appropriate pesticide. This may involve drilling into
wood member and using pressure injection. It may also include drilling into the wall voids and
on top of window sills and applying a dust-like pesticide. Another strategy involves laying out
poison baits for the worker ants to take back to the nest(s). To prevent infestation, barrier
treatments and removal of conducive conditions is recommended.
©2008 Lucky Home Inspection, LLC.
All Rights Reserved.