Ghana, Togo and Benin itinerary
Ghana, Togo and Benin feature a thrilling diversity of traditional cultures, from the once-mighty kingdom of
the Ashanti to smaller groups living in isolation in the bush. We defy you not to fall under the spell of these
three fascinating countries!
The tour starts in Accra (one of West Africa’s liveliest cities) before visiting the fishing town of Elmina, home
to an imposing slave castle dating back more than 500 years. From here we continue to Kumasi, where you
will have the opportunity to witness the Akwasidae festival of the Ashanti, a glittering showcase of traditional
culture honouring the Ashanti king. In Mole National Park we venture out on foot to get close to elephants
and other wildlife, and then cross into Togo to visit the fiercely traditional Tamberma people, with their
extraordinary fortress-style houses designed to protect them from invaders. In Benin we explore stilt
villages, ancient kingdoms and the legacy of the slave trade, and before ending the trip witness a traditional
voodoo ceremony deep within the swamps.
Day 1 – Accra
Arrive in Accra and transfer to your hotel. For those arriving early in the day, the rest of the day is free to explore.
Overnight Accra City Hotel or similar.
Accra
Ghana’s capital is one of Africa’s biggest cities, with the inevitable traffic, noise and mayhem. Despite being a fast
growing, lively city, the people are friendly and welcoming and maintain many aspects of their tribal African roots. The
National Museum houses one of West Africa’s best ethnographic, historical and art collections, which gives a good
introduction to Ghana and surrounding areas. The old quarter of Jamestown is the heart of the old colonial town and
is inhabited by the Ga people, who founded Accra in the 16th century. There are numerous bustling markets to
explore where you can discover everything from food, clothing and household goods to traditional crafts. Most
interesting is the area where coffins are made – here they make them with the most outlandish designs, in the shape
of fish, aeroplanes and just about anything else you can think of.
Day 2 – Accra
Spend the morning exploring Accra, visiting the National Museum, the old quarter of Jamestown and crafts quarter.
From here we drive to Anomabu on the coast.
Overnight Anomabu Beach Resort or similar.
(BLD)
Day 3 – Kakum National Park - Elmina
This morning we visit Kakum National Park
where we walk on elevated canopy walkways for
a unique view of this beautiful area, with good
chances to spot birds and other wildlife. In the
afternoon we go to the fishing town of Elmina, best known for St George’s Castle, the oldest European building in
Africa and once used as a holding centre for slaves. In the town itself we explore the old quarter with its unique
Posuban shrines, made by the traditional ‘asafo’ societies which were once responsible for local defence. Overnight
Anomabu Beach Resort or similar. (BLD)
Kakum National Park
Approximately 35km north from Cape Coast, in the middle of protected rainforest, is the superb Kakum National Park.
The park harbours monkeys, antelope and even the very elusive forest elephant. The highlight is a walk though the
forest canopy, 30m above the forest floor. The canopy walk is a suspended rope bridge, secured by steel cables, and
is the longest and highest of its kind in Africa. We will have an incredible view of the forest – mingling with birds,
butterflies and squirrels and catching glimpses of sunshine that you would miss from the forest floor.
Elmina
The pretty town of Elmina is dominated by the whitewashed St George’s Castle, which dates back to the 15th century.
The fort is a rather sombre place when you realise that this is where slaves were held awaiting transportation to the
new world, and the cells which they were held in still remain. Elmina is also home to the smaller Fort St Jago,
perched on a hill and overlooking the town, as well as a 19th-century Dutch cemetery, and the fishing harbour is a
delight to explore, with colourful boats and fishermen bringing in their daily catch.
Day 4 – Kumasi
Continue to Kumasi, Ghana’s second city and
home of the old Ashanti Kingdom. Explore the
city, including the Ashanti Cultural Centre,
which gives a great insight into what was once
among the most powerful kingdoms in the
region. If possible, we will be able to see a
traditional Ashanti funeral, quite a spectacle at
which visitors are welcome. Overnight Miklin
Hotel or similar. (BLD)
Kumasi
Kumasi is the historical and spiritual capital of
the Ashanti Kingdom. With its population of
nearly one million, Kumasi is a sprawling city
with a fantastic central market where traders
from all over Africa come to sell their wares. Every kind of Ashanti craft (leather goods, pottery, kente cloth) is found
here, along with tropical fruits, vegetables and other provisions. We visit the Ashanti Cultural Centre, which has a rich
collection of Ashanti artefacts, housed in a reproduction of a traditional Ashanti royal house.
Ashanti people
The Ashanti people were one of the most powerful nations in Africa until the end of the 19th century, when the British
annexed Ashanti country, bringing it into their Gold Coast colony. Originally from the northern savannah regions, the
Ashanti people migrated south, carving farms out of the wild rainforest. The region was rich in gold, and trade in this
precious metal developed quickly, with small tribal states developing and vying for control of resources. In the late
17th century the Ashanti ruler brought these states together in a loose confederation and the Ashanti Kingdom was
born. Their social organisation is centred on the Ashantehene figure, the king of all the Ashanti. The Ashanti are the
lords of the gold, so they dress themselves with it during ceremonies. The Ashanti Kingdom was famed for its gold,
royalty, ceremony and the development of a bureaucratic judicial system.
Day 5 – Kumasi – Techiman
Continue our exploration of Kumasi by visiting the Royal
Palace Museum, with its unique collection of golden
jewellery. We also see the Akwasidae festival, a
flamboyant ceremony honouring the Ashantehene, the
traditional ruler of the Ashanti people. From here we
continue to Techiman for the night. Overnight Encom
Hotel or similar. (BLD)
Day 6 – Boabeng-Fiema – Mole National Park
From here we head to Boabeng-Fiema, where the forest
contains a population of mona and colobus monkeys
that the local people consider to be sacred. As a result
of this they are not harmed, and therefore not afraid of people, so your chances of seeing them are excellent. We
explore the forest on foot, then drive to nearby Mole National Park, where we enjoy a guided walking safari in the
park. Overnight Mole Motel or similar. (BLD)
Mole National Park
Mole National Park is Ghana's largest wildlife refuge. The park is located in the northwest and is made up of
grassland savannah and riparian eco-systems, with a sharp escarpment making up the southern boundary. The park
is home to over 93 mammal species - including elephants, hippos, buffalos and warthogs – and is considered a
primary African reserve for antelope species such as kobs, Defassa waterbucks, roan, hartebeests, oribi, bushbucks,
red duikers and yellow-backed duikers. Sightings of hyenas, lions and leopards are unusual but possible. Olive
baboons, black-and-white colobus, green vervets and pata monkeys are resident species. Among the 33 known
species of reptile recorded, it is worth mentioning the slender-snouted and dwarf crocodile. There are 344 listed bird
species, and those to look out for include martial eagles, white-headed and palm-nut vultures, saddle-billed storks,
herons, egrets, Abyssinian rollers, violet turacos and red-throated bee-eaters.
Day 7 – Mole National Park – Tamale
After a further morning excursion in the park, we head to Tamale for the night. Overnight Modern City Hotel or similar.
(BLD)
Day 8 – Kara
Continue to a little-visited region inhabited by the Dagomba people, who we stop to visit. In one settlement lives a
population of ‘witches’, exiled from their own villages for fear of bad luck or harm. This offers us another opportunity
to understand the complex belief systems that hold sway here. From here we cross the border into Togo and drive to
Kara. Overnight Hotel Kara or similar. (BLD)
Day 9 – Tamberma Villages
Head into the Kabye Massif, populated by a people of the same name. They live in houses called ‘soukala’,
consisting of a number of dwellings linked by walls which hold one family. From here we drive into the lands of the
Tamberma, one of the region’s most traditional groups who live in fortified houses known as ‘tatas’ – quite a
spectacular sight. This afternoon we cross into Benin and continue to Naititingou. Overnight Hotel Tata Somba or
similar. (BLD)
The Tamberma people
The Tamberma are one of the region's most
intriguing and traditional groups. Straddling the
border between Togo and Benin (where they are
known as Somba), they live deep in the bush in
fortress-style houses which are utterly unlike
anything else. Rather than settling in villages,
each family has its own compound, an arrow's
flight from anyone else. The mud-built dwellings
(known as 'tatas') are designed for defence, with
strong walls and access traditionally via a ladder
which would be withdrawn in times of trouble.
Inside the tatas are separate areas for people,
livestock and grain, and some contain wells,
meaning that the inhabitants could hole up for
days when slave raiders came, making attacks
on the Tamberma a far less attractive proposition than weaker, less defensive peoples. Although modern influences
are now starting to creep in, the Tamberma are still very traditional and it's possible to see groups of men heading off
into the bush to hunt, armed with bows and arrows and accompanied by their dogs, while many of the older women
still wear polished bones through their lower lips and impressive headgear adorned with gazelle horns.
Day 10 – Taneka and Fulani villages – Djougou
This morning we visit a nearby Fulani village. The Fulani are one of the region’s most striking ethnic groups, with
different features to most others and a life based around tending their livestock. Spend this afternoon hiking around
the villages of the Taneka people in the surrounding countryside. The Taneka have kept their traditions alive,
inhabiting round huts with conical roofs topped by a terracotta pot. The upper part of the villages are home to young
initiates and fetish priests who cover themselves only with a loin cloth and carry a long pipe. Later continue to
Djougou for the night. Overnight Hotel Taneka Koko or similar. (BLD)
Fulani People
The Fulani, also known as Peul, Wodaabe or Mbororo, are also traditionally nomadic, searching for new pastures in
arid lands for their sizable flocks of sheep, goats and cattle. Darker skinned than the Tuareg, the Fulani women plait
their hair and often weave in silver coins or discs. They sometimes have tattooed faces too. They are the largest
nomadic group of people in the world and can be found in many different parts of Africa, from Guinea to Sudan.
Day 11 – Savalou – Bohicon
Drive south to the Dankoli fetish, the most important voodoo shrine in Benin, where we may be able to witness rituals
taking place. From here we continue to Bohicon. Overnight Hotel Dako or similar. (BLD)
Day 12 – Abomey – Ganvie – Ouidah
Visit Abomey, once the centre of the powerful kingdom of Dahomey, and home to an impressive Royal Palace. The
palace is now a museum displaying various artefacts from that time. This afternoon we head out onto Lake Nokwe to
visit Ganvie, the largest stilt village in Africa situated in the middle of the water. Continue to Ouidah for the night.
Overnight Hotel Casa del Papa or similar. (BLD)
Abomey
Once the capital of the powerful kingdom of Dahomey, Abomey gained a notorious reputation as the centre of a fierce
civilisation, whose rulers preyed mercilessly on the surrounding tribes as they conquered neighbouring lands and
captured slaves. During the ‘Scramble for Africa' Dahomey put up strong resistance against the French colonial
armies but in the end were no match for modern weapons, and the kingdom fell in 1892, its king Gbehanzin setting
fire to the city. Abomey had been renowned for its palaces, and although many were lost, two still remain which give
the visitor a fascinating insight into this once mighty nation. Now museums, they contain a number of interesting
exhibits from earlier times, the most impressive of which is a throne which sits on top of human skulls. Also worth a
look is the nearby temple whose walls are said to have been made with the blood of enemies.
Ganvie
On Lake Nokwe lies the stilt village of Ganvie, a settlement of 25,000 people isolated from the land and only
accessible by boat. Legend has it that the Tofinou people fled here in the 18th century to escape the depredation of
the more powerful Dahomeyans on the lookout for slaves, and that they were transported to their new home by
crocodiles. Whatever the truth behind it, Ganvie is an interesting place to drift through in a boat, watching how people
go about their daily lives on the water, stopping at local markets and seeing the fishermen casting their nets. This is a
place far removed from the busy towns making it a real delight to explore. The market on the mainland is also worth a
look, if only for the rather gruesome section dedicated to voodoo.
Day 13 – Ouidah – Lac Togo
Explore the coastal town of Ouidah, a stronghold of voodoo and once an important slave port. We visit the python
temple (where snakes are venerated as representations of gods), the old Portuguese fort and finally head to the
beach and the sombre ‘Gate of No Return’, the point from which slaves left Africa for the New World. In the afternoon,
we travel into Togo and to a remote and hidden village, where we witness a voodoo ceremony – unique to this part of
the world, and sure to be one of the highlights of your trip. Overnight Hotel Le Lac or similar. (BLD)
Ouidah
Founded in the 15th century and made famous by Bruce Chatwin's novel The Viceroy of Ouidah, Ouidah was once a
centre for the slave trade in this part of West Africa and many of its buildings bear witness to a strong European
influence. As well as a rather imposing and out-of-place cathedral, Afro-Brazilian architecture and crumbling colonial
buildings, the Portuguese fort holds an interesting history museum which gives an insight into the past life of the
town. Of equal interest is the Python Temple, where a collection of snakes are venerated as earthly representations
of voodoo gods. A thought-provoking
excursion is the 3km walk along the 'Slave
Route', where those boarding the boats
across the Atlantic were herded like cattle to
the shore. At the end on the beach lies the
modern 'Gate of No Return', built in memory
of the thousands who never made it back.
Voodoo
Voodoo, or Vodoun as it is known here, is
one of the most important religions in this
part of West Africa. Forget what you may have seen on TV about it being a form of black magic - here it has the same
legitimacy as any other belief system and has been adopted as an official religion by Benin. Voodoo is a complex and
intricate way of seeing the world, with literally hundreds of different gods responsible for various areas of daily life.
Some are benevolent, some less so, and in order to communicate with them and ask for favours local people will
seek the assistance of followers, or adepts. There are numerous voodoo temples scattered around the coastal
regions of both Benin and Togo, each headed by a priest who for a suitable donation will intercede on your behalf.
Voodoo is not limited to the temples though and travelling around the region it is likely that you will see some
ceremony being carried out. Also worth looking out for are the Egunguns - earthly manifestations of the dead who
roam the streets in outlandish costumes, striking fear into the hearts of local people. Sacrifice and blood are important
within voodoo rituals, and any ceremony worth its salt is likely to involve a chicken being killed, its blood spilled onto a
shrine in order to seal the pact. You're also likely to see fetishes dotted around villages - these are inanimate objects
such as rocks or trees in which a spirit is believed to reside, often covered in candle wax, feathers and blood where
sacrifices have been made. Gaining some understanding of voodoo allows you a glimpse into a magical world where
nothing is quite as it seems, and is perhaps the most fascinating aspect of travelling here.
Day 14 – Lome – Kpalime
Drive to Lome, the only African city to have been
colonised by the French, British and Germans.
Explore the city, including its central markets and
the fascinating – if rather gruesome – fetish market,
where animal parts are sold for use in traditional
medicines. From here continue to the small town of
Kpalime for the night. Overnight Hotel Cristal or
similar. (BLD)
Lome
Togo’s capital is a vibrant city situated on the coast,
sitting right on the international border with Ghana
and with a population of just under a million. Slightly
dishevelled, it is quite an atmospheric little city and
is now recovering from the civil disturbances suffered by the country in the 1990s. Its origins date back to the 18th
century, when it was settled by the Ewe people, one of Togo’s largest ethnic groups. Like many African cities it
doesn’t have too much in the way of formal sightseeing but there are a few things worth exploring – the Grand
Marche with its exuberant businesswomen known as ‘Nana Benz’ who monopolise the sale of cloth in Togo. At the
fetish market, animal parts are sold for use in traditional medicines. While this is not a great place for animal lovers,
with heads and body parts of everything from sharks and crocodiles to gorillas on sale, it offers an interesting insight
into a belief system very different from our own. Lome has a number of buildings which date from the German
occupation, most noticeable of which is a rather bizarre looking 19th-century Gothic-style cathedral which looks rather
out of place in a West African city.
Day 15 – Amedjope
Cross into Ghana and visit Wli Falls, where water plunges 60 metres or so to the bottom. The walk to the falls gives
good opportunities to spot some of the 200 species of bird and 400 species of butterfly that exist here. We then
explore Amedjope, a former German mission and once part of German Togoland – it is also the highest village in the
country. Explore the town with its remnants of the colonial times. Overnight Chances Hotel or similar. (BLD)
Day 16 – Accra
Travel to the Krobo region, where local people make intricate beads using traditional methods. We then return to
Accra and transfer to the airport for your onward flight. (B)
Departure date: 18 October 2017
Minimum Group size: 6
Maximum Group Size: 12
Price: £3,499 per person based on twin share, excluding international flights. Any single supplements required cost
£425.
What’s included:
Airport transfers – We include arrival and departure transfers regardless of whether you book flights yourself, or we
book them for you. If you’re booking them yourself, then please let us know the details so that we can arrange the
transfers.
Accommodation – Accommodation as listed in the dossier. The nature of the destinations that we operate may
sometimes mean that we need to change hotels, but we’ll always endeavour to keep the same standards. Please be
aware that as we operate in many countries where tourism is in its infancy, hotel standards may not be the same as
you’re used to elsewhere.
Guides – You will be hosted by Bradt Guides author Philip Briggs throughout the trip, and will also be accompanied
by locally based English-speaking guides.
Meals – As listed within the itinerary / dossier (B-Breakfast, L-Lunch, D-Dinner). These will vary from trip to trip – in
some areas it makes sense to include all meals while in others there is a good choice of restaurants and we feel
people might like to ‘do their own thing’ now and again.
Entrance fees – Entrance fees are listed for those sites that we mention within the itinerary. If there are any other
sites that you’d like to see, these would be at your own expense.
What’s not included:
Visas – We don’t arrange visas for our travellers, but if an invitation letter is necessary then we will arrange this for
you. If you need any advice with visas then just give us a call, or alternatively a visa agency such as Travcour
(www.travcour.com) can assist.
Airport taxes – If there are any departure taxes to pay that are not included within the cost of your ticket, you’ll need
to pay these yourself.
International flights – Many of our travellers arrive from different destinations and so we don’t include international
flights in the cost of our tours. If however you would like us to book flights for you, then just give us a call and we’ll be
happy to discuss your options.
Travel Insurance – If you need any assistance with this, then let us know – although we can’t arrange it ourselves
we can point you in the direction of a reputable provider that can assist.