pasquini_34-35_Special Report 1/16/13 2:50 PM Page 34 Istanbul: An Affordable Food Lover’s Paradise SpecialReport By Elaine Pasquini stanbul, renowned for being a city both Asian and European, a melding of powerful civilizations, and home to monumental mosques Idesigned by architects of unequaled talent, is also a gastronomical paradise for everyone, regardless of age or budget. Elaine Pasquini is a free-lance journalist based in the San Francisco Bay Area. 34 STAFF PHOTO PHIL PASQUINI STAFF PHOTO PHIL PASQUINI STAFF PHOTO PHIL PASQUINI STAFF PHOTO PHIL PASQUINI Mouth-watering displays of salads tempt passersby on Divanyolu Street, a busy thoroughfare that was once the imperial road to Rome. In this detail of a floating fish kitchen, the words “Bismillahirrahmanirrahim” on the front read “In the name of Allah, most gracious, most merciful” and are said as a blessing before meals. Colorful floating fish kitchens located at the foot of the Galata Bridge on the Eminonu waterfront serve fast food sandwiches Turkishstyle. In the background is the Yeni Cami (New Mosque). STAFF PHOTO PHIL PASQUINI Watermelon (karpuz), the ultimate refreshment for visitors out and about on a hot summer day, is available from enterprising young men who push their carts through the tourist areas to keep up with the large demand. Tempting desserts in a display window. The confectionery known as Turkish delight (lokum) is the favorite candy of Turkey dating from the Ottoman era. Created from sugar, sugar syrup, rosewater, nuts and dried fruit, it is frequently packaged in cubes,although at one time the sweets were wrapped in silk handkerchiefs and exchanged as gifts. A cook hands a customer a balik ekmek (fish bread)—a grilled fish fillet stuffed in a half-loaf of bread along with salata (lettuce, tomato and onions)—which is wildly popular with tourists and locals alike and costs 2.5 Turkish lira ($1.39). THE WASHINGTON REPORT ON MIDDLE EAST AFFAIRS STAFF PHOTO E. PASQUINI STAFF PHOTO E. PASQUINI On the edge of Sultanahmet Square, this delightful brass stand—with a tughra (official signature) of Sultan Suleiman the Magnificent embossed in its roof—sells baklava, the popular filo pastry filled with nuts and honey, and Turkish delight (lokum), the iconic sweet of Turkey from Ottoman times. STAFF PHOTO PHIL PASQUINI STAFF PHOTO PHIL PASQUINI Savory street food abounds in every part of the city, including both sides of the Golden Horn and the Asian and European sides of the Bosphorus. The variety of delicious offerings would fill many books, and tasting them all would require a long stay in the Jewel of the Bosphorus, but here is a small sample of what awaits the lucky traveler to Istanbul. Drinks on the terrace of the famed Pera Palace hotel are a pleasant respite from the hustle and bustle of nearby Istiklal Street. MARCH 2013 STAFF PHOTO E. PASQUINI STAFF PHOTO PHIL PASQUINI pasquini_34-35_Special Report 1/16/13 2:50 PM Page 35 One of the friendly waiters on the rooftop terrace of the Seven Hills Restaurant in Sultanahmet displays the “catch of the day” against the dramatic backdrop of Hagia Sophia. MARCH 2013 STAFF PHOTO PHIL PASQUINI STAFF PHOTO PHIL PASQUINI Few breads compare to fresh out-of-the-oven “bubble” bread—sometimes called “balloon” bread—which is simply a mixture of water, yeast and flour baked to form the distinctive bubble. Many establishments display the loaves to entice customers to their cafes or restaurants. Corn on the cob (misir), grilled in an open cart and sold for 1.50 Turkish lira (83 cents), is a healthy fast food available in Istanbul’s streets and squares. This vendor shows his artistic side with an eye-catching sculptural arrangement of corn on the front of his cart. Colorful, gooey, sugary Osmanli Macunu, a traditional Ottoman candy, is cooked in a deep metal pot, twirled around a thin stick before handed to an eagerly awaiting customer. This sweet is so popular that the candy makers have been known to run out of sticks! This splendid array of dried fruits and nuts is a visual delight for photographers, as well as a healthy snack in a moment of fatigue. Fruits and vegetables throughout the bazaars are typically displayed in this tidy fashion. STAFF PHOTO E. PASQUINI STAFF PHOTO E. PASQUINI STAFF PHOTO E. PASQUINI STAFF PHOTO PHIL PASQUINI This hardworking chef attracts an audience, especially around lunchtime. Sweet, fruity apple tea (elma cay) is served everywhere, almost always in a small tulipshaped glass, and offered to prospective carpet buyers by hospitable shop owners. THE WASHINGTON REPORT ON MIDDLE EAST AFFAIRS Simits, chewy, elongated bread rings crusted with sesame seeds, are the cornerstone of street food found in the squares of Istanbul. Some simit salesmen carry the bread on platters on their heads, but more often they are sold from carts or kiosks. 35
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