Part2_StartingAndFinishingSessions - Davies

Warming Up, Cooling Down and Joint Mobilisation
Introduction
Climbing can be a very unforgiving sport in physical terms. The stresses and risk of injury
for joints, tendons and muscles are increased dramatically without appropriate and
sufficient preparation. Muscles tire more slowly and perform better when kept warm. The
three key components which will ensure a complete and effective warm up are:
 The general warm up;

Joint Mobilization;

The sports specific warm up;
Introducing a warm up session to clients
When introducing warming up to your clients remember the following points:
 Check none of your clients have any underlying injuries or problems that may be
aggravated by the warm up or course content.

Most clients will have some experience and knowledge of stretches.

They may only require you to identify sports specific stretches i.e. forearms.

They may benefit from reminding how to stretch correctly.

Unless the focus of your session is warming up – it is unlikely that spending 15
minutes of the course warming up is appropriate.

Minors shouldn’t be told specific stretches but instead encouraged to warm-up
and maximize joint mobility through movement, games and fun.
Stretching Vs Joint Mobilisation:
Joint Mobilisation could simply be termed ‘stretching’ however some fitness professionals
are suggesting that the word should be used with care. Any ‘stretch’ suggested to clients
should be a passive stretch without a goal such that it is not possible for an injury to
occur through bouncing or poor technique. We are encouraging stretching such that a
joint is mobilised through its full range of motion and prepared for such motion to occur
under stress.
Dynamic Stretching
It is possible to add a forth phase to any warm up which is termed ‘Dynamic Stretching’.
This is an advanced tool and would only be of benefit to climbers looking at performance
training.
The Cost of not warming up.
If you need persuading to warm up then look at the maths. It only takes 15 minutes to
prepare your body for a session but an injury could easily cost you over weeks or months
of climbing time not including a reduced performance for a potentially longer period.
The General Warm up (All Levels)
The general warm up is intended to increase blood and nutrient flow around the body by
elevating both the heart and respiratory rate. The extent of a warm up will depend on the
fitness of the participant. Aim to warm up for about five minutes and in such a way as to
produce a light sweat. You should NOT work so hard as to be unable to continue talking
during your warm up. Warming up can include:
 Walking, running or cycling to the climbing centre.

Running, jogging or skipping on the spot.

Climbing 1 or 2 easy top ropes.
Warming up for Children.
Children will need to enjoy their warming up to take it seriously. If working in youth groups
try to make warming up a fun group activity. Team building games here are excellent as
they encourage working together and trust – a key aspect of climbing.
Joint Mobilisation and Passive Stretching (Adults Only)
Passive stretching is the safest and most basic form of stretching. The aim of a passive
stretch is to move a joint through its full range of movement placing all the connective
tissues under tension. This lengthening of the tendons and muscles will in turn increase
the mobility of the affected joints. This crucial part of a warm up enables a more effective
second phase. In order to perform an effective stretch you should:
 Relax all muscles including those to be stretched working through from your head
to your feet.

Move gently into the focus position so further movement is resisted by the joint
and associated connective tissue.

All other muscles should remain relaxed.

Breathe in and then while breathing out increase the tension such that you feel a
SLIGHT discomfort. This discomfort should vanish in a few seconds as your
muscles and tendons lengthen to accommodate the increased tension.

DO NOT increase the tension further but hold for up to 10 seconds.

DO NOT bounce, stretch or force any further movement other than what is
natural.
Possible Stretches (Adults Only)
The following stretches are only suggestions and plenty of alternatives are available.
Varying the stretches you use to target different muscles will prevent your body and mind
from stagnating.
Forearms
Extend the target arm with the inner forearm
facing upwards. Use the other hand to pull your
fingers back towards the body until you feel the
stretch in the forearm. Do not over extend the
joint past ninety degrees and repeat for both
arms.
Hyper-extending Finger Joints
Bend all your fingers back at each joint preparing
them for crimping.
Shoulder Circles
Rotate each arm around in circles, one at a time.
Be careful not to spin your arms but form careful
circles and take the shoulder through its full range
of movement.
Shoulder Stretch
Extend your target arm in front of your body.
Place the other wrist underneath and pull inward
toward your body, while keeping the target arm
extended. Stretch the other side.
Triceps Stretch
Bend the target arm while placing your fingers in
the middle of the back. Using the other arm, pull
your target elbow backward until you feel the
stretch in the back of your arm. Stretch the other
side.
Chest
Take your hands from your side and interconnect
them behind your back. Raise your arms behind
your back until you feel some tension in your
chest. Hold for ten seconds.
Latissimus Dorsi (Lats) and Obliques
With your feet just over shoulder width apart let
one hand slide down your leg and with the other
arm reach to the sky. You feel the stretch along
the lats (Latissimus dorsi) and Obliques.
Inner thigh Stretch
While seated, pull both feet inward toward the
body. Grab your feet with your hands, while
using the elbows to press downward slightly on
the knees. You should feel this stretch in your
inner thighs.
Lower Back and Spinal Twist Stretch
Lay flat on the floor and using the arms to keep
your shoulders on the ground rotate one leg bent
over the other. Target area is glutes and lower
back.
Alternative Lower Back
While seated, extend the left leg in front of
you. Bend your right leg, bringing your knee
towards your chest. Rotate your upper body
to the left and then to the right focus on
maintaining a straight back. Hold for 10-30
seconds each side. Repeat the other side.
Sports Specific Warm Up (All Levels).
Now you have completed the initial warm up you are in a position to safely move onto the
sports specific warm up which will reflect the movements and actions of rock climbing.
This is to be undertaken at an increased level of intensity and hence can only be safely
done so if the initial phase has been completed. The most obvious warm up for climbing is
some easy climbing on large holds. This could be low level traversing or some simple
routes.
DO NOT allow yourself to become ‘pumped’ during this section even if it means not
completing your route or exercise. The term ‘pumped’ refers to the build up of lactic acid in
the muscles. If you get a strong pump this early on in your session then you’ll find it
almost impossible to remove. However you can sometimes benefit from a slight pump as
you’ll body will begin to prepare for processing and dealing with the real pump which will
follow later.
Instructors Note: The truth about Lactic Acid – During intense exercise, such as
sprinting type activities, when the rate of demand for energy is high, lactate is produced
faster than the ability of the tissues to remove it and lactate concentration begins to rise.
Contrary to popular belief, this increased concentration of lactate is not directly
responsible for the acidosis, muscle pain or "burning". The acidosis that is associated
with increases in lactate concentration during heavy exercise arises from a completely
separate reaction where a hydrogen ion is released which affects the pH levels within the
muscle.
As you climb try to focus on all the techniques you know. Remember to use straight arms
and relaxed fingers. Don’t over grip and be sure to let your feet do the work. These
should be easy routes and you shouldn’t be struggling - use this time for some mental
preparation too.
Starting Your Session
Now you are warmed sufficiently to begin your session, DO NOT blow it all in the first route
or boulder problem by jumping on something too hard. The following points will ensure
that your session progresses well:
 Increase the level of difficulty slowly over a period of 20 minutes (Bouldering) and
40 minutes (Routes)

Take sufficient rest (5 minutes) between climbs.

Tackle different types of climb or surface angle.
The Cool Down
Cooling Down is the last element of any exercise session and is often overlooked. We
squeeze in one more climb and then don’t cool down or stretch ourselves off. The aim is
to increase flexibility, flush the body out removing lactic acid and mentally relax so you can
leave feeling refreshed. The main reasons for ensuring a complete cool down are:
 Reduced delayed onset of muscle soreness (DOMS)

Improved flexibility

Release stress
 Aid relaxation
The cool down should last around 5 to 10 minutes and is divided into three sections:
 Flexibility

Relaxation
 Revitalize
During this section your core body temperature, heart rate and mental state are brought
back to near-resting levels. However, your metabolic rate could remain higher for some
time and this will be discussed later.
Ending your session with two or three easy routes will reduce your heart rate before you
move on to a final stretch
Flexibility (Adults Only)
Muscles respond best to stretching when they are warm and pliable. In addition they
shorten during exercise and will need to be lengthened again before cooling. During the
cooling down stretches try to ensure a smooth transition from one position to another to
encourage the relaxation phase to begin early. You should stretch the same muscles as in
your warm up and can use the same stretches. However you may choose to make one
difference.
Maintenance Stretches (Adults Only)
This is what you did in the warm up.
Development Stretches (Adults Only)
Development stretches are held for longer and are aimed at those specific muscles that
will shorten regularly during your daily activities e.g. if you spend a lot of your time seated
your pectorals, hip-flexors and hamstrings will tighten.
Current research suggests 15 to 60 seconds with an optimum of 30 seconds. When the
initial discomfort subsides the tension should be increased again until the same level of
discomfort is felt. The stretch should not be forced - if limbs shake or the discomfort
doesn’t subside after 8 to 10 seconds then the tension should be reduced.
Relax and Revitalize
Don’t just race out of the centre on completing your session. Take a few minutes to relax
and return to normal. Too many people have accidents on leaving centres because their
heads are still full of training.