S ail i ng to M a n i
a nd Beyo nd
Join writer and Editor Jeremy Lewis aboard the Variety Voyager
as we celebrate the life of Patrick Leigh Fermor, one of our
greatest travel writers, in his beloved Greece
14th to 23rd April 2015 in association with the Oldie Magazine
Blue Mosque, Istanbul
P
atrick Leigh Fermor, who died in 2011 at the age of 96, is probably best
known to the world at large for dreaming up and then perpetrating one
of the most dashing and unconventional adventures of the Second World
War: the kidnapping in Crete of a German General, who was bundled
across the mountainous spine of the island before being spirited away
to Cairo and captivity. Rather improbably, Dirk Bogarde starred as Leigh
Fermor in the film of the book, Ill Met by Moonlight.
As proud as he was of his exploits as a guerrilla fighter in Crete, Leigh Fermor was also the finest travel
writer of the twentieth century, and one of the great masters of English prose. A Time of Gifts, Between
the Woods and the Water and the posthumously published The Broken Road, the trilogy in which he
described how, as an eighteen-year-old, he walked across Europe from Rotterdam to Istanbul, combined
commercial success with literary acclaim; but he also wrote two classic books about Greece, the country
he loved above all others and where he lived for much of his life. Roumeli was devoted to Greece north
of the Gulf of Corinth, Mani to the bleak but beautiful country at the southernmost tip of the central
prong of the Peloponnese. Both books are vivid, carefully crafted evocations of Greek life and culture,
combining travel writing with brilliant insights into the history, art, culture, religion and people of his
adopted country – not forgetting the food and drink, both of which loomed large in his travels.
There are few places in Greece that Leigh Fermor failed to visit or write about, but our voyage
aboard the Variety Voyager will concentrate on two parts of the country with which he is particularly
associated: the Mani, where we plan to visit the magical house he built near Kardamyli; and Crete,
the scene of his wartime adventures. Leigh Fermor wrote with particular insight about the Byzantine
element in Greek culture, and the cruise will end in Istanbul – which, as Constantinople, was the
epicentre of Greek life and culture for over a thousand years, and the city in which Leigh Fermor
concluded his pre-war ‘Great Trudge’ across Europe.
For this unique voyage we have worked closely with Jeremy Lewis who will accompany the cruise
and writes: I got to know Patrick Leigh Fermor after he had chosen my first book of memoirs, ‘Playing
for Time’, as his book of the year in one of the Sunday papers, and he gave me invaluable help with
my biography of his friend Cyril Connolly. I wish I’d seen more of him, since he is one of my literary
heroes: we met from time to time in London, and I hugely enjoyed a long and very bibulous lunch with
him and his wife Joan in their house in Kardamyli.
Istanbul
Canakkale
GREECE
AEGEAN
SEA
Troy
TURKEY
Athens
Gythion
Kardamyli
Patmos
Vatheia
Rethmynon
CRETE
Guest Speaker
Jeremy Lewis worked in
publishing for twenty-plus
years before becoming a
freelance writer in 1989. He has
published three volumes of
memoirs, and biographies of
Cyril Connolly, Tobias Smollett
and Allen Lane. Shades of Greene, an account
of Graham Greene’s siblings and cousins, was
published by Jonathan Cape in 2010; he is
currently writing a biography of David Astor, the
editor-cum-proprietor of the Observer, also for
Cape. He has been the commissioning editor of
the Oldie since 1997.
Ancient pithoi
Knossos palace
Iraklion
Monastery, Patmos
Vatheia
The Itinerary
Day 1 London to Athens, Greece. Fly by
scheduled flight. On arrival transfer to the Variety
Voyager in Piraeus and embark. Sail this evening.
Day 2 Gythion. During the night we sail along
the eastern shores of the Peloponnese, reaching
Gythion in the morning. Our first call on the
Mani Peninsula is to its north east corner.
Mentioned often and favourably by Patrick Leigh
Fermor, the crowded houses on their climbing
terraces present a pretty picture in the glow
of the morning sun. The history of the place
goes back to the classical period, when it was
the main port of Sparta. During our morning
ashore we will explore the town much as Patrick
Leigh Fermor did, including the remains of a
Greek theatre and a Roman temple. Keep an
eye out for the romantic island of Marathonisi
Gythion harbour
where, as Leigh Fermor discovered on the very
last page of Mani, Paris and Helen spent their
first night together after he had stolen her away
from the King of Sparta. Alternatively there
will be the option of a visit to the extraordinary
site of Mystras, the last Byzantine stronghold.
During lunch onboard we sail south along the
Mani’s eastern shore, looking out for the famous
towers, Mani’s most distinctive feature. At the
southern tip of the peninsula we will sail close
to the cave which was said to mark the entrance
to Hades, into which the intrepid Leigh Fermor
swam. Moor overnight in Gerolimin.
Day 3 Vatheia & Kardamyli. Close to the
southern tip of Mani, Vatheia is an astonishing
village of crumbling tower houses standing atop
a barren hill overlooking the sea. The towers
were home to feuding clans of brave Maniots
who refused to succumb to Ottoman rule and
they built the fortressed tower houses to defend
themselves against attacks from marauding
invaders, pirates and their own neighbours. After
exploring the village and visiting the fascinating
Diros Cave we will return to the Variety Voyager
for a leisurely lunch as we sail north to Kardamyli,
an enchanting village where Patrick Leigh
Fermor and his wife Joan built a magical house
by the sea, now owned by the Benaki Museum
in Athens, who hope to restore the house for
use as a writer’s retreat. We set sail late this
afternoon for Crete where Leigh Fermor spent
three years as a wartime guerrilla fighter, and
remained particularly devoted to the island.
Day 4 Rethmynon, Crete. After breakfast arrive
in Rethmynon for a morning visit of the Fortezza
Castle, built by the Venetians for protection,
followed by a walking tour of the town. After
lunch explore the Rethmynon Military Museum
of War which houses mementoes of Patrick Leigh
Fermor’s most famous exploit, the kidnapping
of General Kreipe* and then enjoy a scenic
drive to Gaios Kambos on the western edge
of the Psiloritis Mountains which is a renowned
area for native Cretan plants - and early spring
is the perfect time to see them. Our vessel will
remain in the port until midnight, providing an
opportunity for an after-dinner stroll in the town.
* Next year John Murray will publish, for the
first time in book form, Abducting the General,
Patrick Leigh Fermor’s own account of the
kidnapping of General Kreipe in April 1944, and
we plan to have copies on board.
Day 5 Iraklion, Crete. During the night sail
along the north coast of Crete to Iraklion. From
our berth it is a short distance to the Palace
of Knossos, legendary home of the Minotaur.
Wander round the site impressively excavated
by Sir Arthur Evans, examining some of the 1300
rooms adorned with lively frescoes where King
Minos held court. Afternoon at leisure to explore
independently before we set sail in the late
afternoon and head for the Dodecanese.
Day 6 Patmos, Greece. Patmos has been called
the ‘Jerusalem of the Aegean’ and its religious
significance dates from the arrival of St John on
Patmos
Kardamyli
by Homer in the Iliad: one of these layers was
found to have burnt objects in it, suggesting
that the city was violently ransacked at some
stage. The tour follows the excavations made
by Heinrich Schliemann, the archaeologist who
discovered Troy and ‘Priam’s Treasure’, the
jewels that, Schliemann claimed, were worn by
Helen of Troy. Today, Troy sits in a remote, idyllic,
rural landscape, with the stone city dominating
the plain for miles around, as if three millennia
have passed in the blink of an eye. We will walk
along the walls that held Helen of Troy and look
down at the plain where Achilles dragged the
dead body of Hector.
Troy, Turkey
the island in 95 AD. Visit the small cave where
St John received his revelation, the Medieval
village of Chora and the Monastery of St John
the Theologian – a UNESCO World Heritage
Site, and an exceptional example of a Greek
Orthodox pilgrimage centre. Sail during lunch
past the island of Fourmoi and Samos, heading
north along the Anatolian coastline.
Day 7 Troy, Turkey. Today we call at Canakkale,
our gateway for Troy, where ongoing
archaeological excavations have revealed nine
different layers of cities superimposed in rings
on a massive mound rising above the Plain of
Ilium. It was to one of these cities, legend has it,
that the Greeks fought the Trojans as recounted
Day 8 Istanbul. Be up on deck before breakfast
as we enter the Bosphorus, a marvellous
sight as Istanbul opens in all its magnificence.
Disembark after breakfast and transfer to your
hotel for a two- night stay. In this bustling city,
straddling Europe and Asia, you will find some
of the greatest buildings and works of art in the
world. This morning’s guided excursion includes
visits to the Byzantine six-century cathedral
of Hagia Sophia and the Sultan Ahmet Camii
(Blue Mosque). The afternoon offers the chance
for a cruise on the Bosphorus or a visit to the
underground world of the Basilica Cistern.
Day 9 Istanbul. This morning your sightseeing
continues with a visit to the Topkapi Palace –
residence of the early sultans and the Kahrie
Djami, a church-cum-mosque out by the
Theodosian Walls. Here we will see some of the
finest of all Byzantine mosaics and wall paintings,
referred to in glowing terms in Patrick Leigh
Fermor’s Mani. Enjoy an afternoon at leisure
before meeting this evening for our farewell
dinner.
Day 10 Istanbul to London. Return to London by
scheduled flight.
Prices per person
Based on double occupancy
Cat
Deck
C
Marina
B
Marina/Riviera
A
Riviera
P
Horizons
Owner’s Suite Horizons
C
Marina for sole use
B
Marina/Riviera for sole use
Prices
£3495
£3695
£3895
£4095
£4595
£4495
£4695
Price Includes: Economy class scheduled air travel,
seven nights aboard the Variety Voyager on a full
board basis with house wine with lunch and dinner
onboard, two nights hotel accommodation in
Istanbul on breakfast only basis, farewell dinner
in Istanbul, shore excursions, services of a cruise
director and tour manager, guest speaker, transfers,
port taxes, airport taxes..
Not Included: Travel insurance, visa.
NB. Ports and itinerary subject to change.
Variety Voyager
The Variety Voyager is a newly built, private yacht which accommodates up to 72 passengers in
36 cabins. Built under the latest International SOLAS regulations and classified by the American
Bureau of Shipping, the Variety Voyager guarantees guests safety with considerable comfort and
elegance. If you find large resort-style vessels accommodating many thousands of passengers
attractive then of course this isn’t the vessel for you. However, if you prefer a more peaceful life
at sea and an atmosphere more akin to a private yacht then you need look no further.
Your Cabin/Suite
The 68 metre Variety Voyager accommodates up to 72 guests in 36 cabins,
28 of the cabins are located on the Marina and Riviera decks and the eight
staterooms are located on the Horizons deck. Cabins and staterooms are
spacious and sizes range from 16m2 to 28m2. Cabins on the Marina deck
feature two oversized portholes and cabins on the Riviera and Horizons
decks feature large windows. All cabins have en-suite marble bathrooms,
individually controlled air conditioning, a mini fridge, safety deposit box, flat
screen television and DVD player. Bathrobes and toiletries are also provided.
Your Space
Public areas are spacious and finely decorated. The Main lounge is located
on the Riviera deck, adjacent to the reception area and is tastefully
designed and furnished. It offers ample comfortable seating and is fully
equipped with an AV system for onboard lectures and presentations. On
the Marina deck is the internet area and a small library offering a variety
of books and magazines as well as computer stations for internet access.
The contemporary Dining room seats all passengers in one sitting and has
floor to ceiling windows. It extends to the adjacent open deck where meals
can be taken ‘al fresco’. The Sun deck is a large area of outdoor space
with Balinese beds and sun loungers. Here you will also find the Horizon
Bar & Lounge, an open-air area on the Upper deck offering stylish shaded
seating and music in the evening. There is a spa and fitness suite located
on the Marina deck offering massages, sauna and fitness equipment. The
Balinese Spa Supervisor also provides hair, face and nail treatments.
Your Dining
The glass enclosed dining room seats 75 passengers and allows for
spectacular views around you, while dining in an elegant environment.
It extends to the adjacent open deck, also seating 50 passengers and
allowing for breakfast, lunch or dinner to be taken “al fresco”. Food is
served at the table or a hot and cold buffet is offered which also includes
an “a la minute cooking” section.
Owner’s Suite
Twin Cabin Category P
Restaurant
Twin Cabin Category B
Sun Deck Dining
Sun Deck Bar
Life Onboard
Part of the joy of a cruise aboard the Variety Voyager is its capability to
dock in small ports or drop anchor in any suitable spot, unlike the large
ships which can only dock in the larger ports with all the supporting
infrastructure necessary to service the vessels. With a maximum of only
72 guests, our trips ashore will be a pleasure as we explore with local
guides. Onboard the atmosphere is informal with ample public space
to relax with a book or to join new found friends to discuss the day’s
events. Throughout the vessel you will find unobstructed views and the
professional crew of 28 will ensure impeccable service.
DECK PLAN
Spa
Deck Plan
Lounge
All special offers are subject to availability. Our current booking conditions apply to all reservations and are available on request. Cover image: Mani peninsula.
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