THE ATLANTIC WALL BY THE WADDEN SEA
- A CONCRETE DEFENSE
Forfattere
Mette Bjerum Jensen (Museet for Varde By og Omegn)
Bente Bjerum (Naturcentret Tønnisgård)
Oversættelse
Nanna Mercer
Årstider
Forår, sommer, efterår, vinter
Tags
Atlantvold; Atlantvolden; Anden Verdenskrig; bunker; bunkers; bunkere;
stillinger; Tirpitz; Batterie Vogelnest; Robbe; Batteri Grådyb; Gneisenau;
Ugroko; Fanø Nord; Søelefant; See Riese; Mammut; Freya; Post Mortem;
radar
Foto
eksempler
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Et billede af Tirpitz stillingen ved Oksbøl
Evt. et billede fra da bunkerne var i brug
Billeder af mennesker, der besøger bunkers
SHORT VERSION
955 anslag
The remains of Hitler's Atlantic Wall stretch along the whole of the Wadden Sea coast. The
many bunkers were once pieces in a defense puzzle that stretched from the North Cape to the
Pyrenees. Together, they give the impression of the enormous strongholds the Nazis
established in the hope of holding on to the conquered Europe.
Some positions protected the approach to Esbjerg. Others had radar to intercept Allied fighter
planes and bombers or to coordinate German attacks. Others, yet again, were built as a
defense should the Allied troops make landfall on the coast.
Along the west coast of Jutland more than 7,000 bunkers were built, most of them in the
period 1943 to the end of the war in 1945. Today, most of them are buried beneath layers of
sand, hidden in plantations or eroded by the wind and the waves.
As a guest to the Wadden Sea, you can explore the different types of bunkers in the
landscape. A few are open for you to take a look inside.
MEDIUM VERSION
2.529 anslag
The remains of Hitler's Atlantic Wall stretch along the whole of the Wadden Sea coast. The
many bunkers were once pieces in a defense puzzle that stretched from the North Cape to the
Pyrenees. Together, they give the impression of the enormous strongholds the Nazis
established in the hope of holding on to the conquered Europe.
Some positions protected the approach to Esbjerg. Others had radar to intercept Allied fighter
planes and bombers or to coordinate German attacks. Others, yet again, were built as a
defense should the Allied troops make landfall on the coast.
Along the west coast of Jutland more than 7,000 bunkers were built, most of them in the
period 1943 to the end of the war in 1945. Today, most of them are buried beneath layers of
sand, hidden in plantations or eroded by the wind and the waves.
Near Blåvand, with a view of the approach to Esbjerg, lies the Tirpitz-position with two huge
cannon-bunkers. The Hansted-battery in Hanstholm and the Tirpitz-position were meant to be
the biggest coast batteries in Denmark. The canon position should, together with other
positions on Fanø, protect the approach to Esbjerg, which was a strategic nerve-center for the
German occupational force. The bunker complex should have been operational by September
1945, but was unfinished by the time the war had ended.
Esbjerg had the only harbor that could be used in case of a possible Allied invasion on the
Danish west coast, which is why Esbjerg and Fanø were the most fortified areas in Denmark
during World War II, and why around 1,200 bunkers were built there.
The German air defense had a command center in an underground bunker in Strandskoven,
while the German Navy used a bunker complex in an area between the city and the harbor.
The largest of these bunkers lay deep below the harbor administration, protected by masses
of earth.
To help protect Esbjerg harbor, the German occupational force built 300 bunkers on Fanø. The
coast artillery on Fanø comprised five positions, of which three were situated on the northern
part of the island. Aside from cannon positions intended to protect the approach to the
harbor, positions for the air defense artillery were also built on North Fanø.
For the Germans it was important to discover Allied airstrikes as quickly as possible.
Therefore, from 1942 and until the end of the war, one increasingly effective radar station
after the other was built on Rømø. By the end of the war, the radar stations on Rømø were
the biggest and most advanced radar positions in Denmark.
LONG VERSION
6.344 anslag
The remains of Hitler's Atlantic Wall stretch along the whole of the Wadden Sea
coast. The many bunkers were once pieces in a defense puzzle that stretched from
the North Cape to the Pyrenees. In the Wadden Sea area, you will find many
different positions, especially on Rømø, Fanø, around Esbjerg and by Blåvand.
The Tirpitz-position by Blåvand
Near Blåvand, with a view of the approach to Esbjerg, lies the Tirpitz-position with two huge
cannon-bunkers. The Hansted-battery in Hanstholm and the Tirpitz-position were meant to be
the biggest coast batteries in Denmark. The bunker complex should have been operational by
September 1945, but was unfinished by the time the war had ended.
Tirpitz and the many positions on Fanø were intended, together with other positions on Fanø,
to protect the approach to Esbjerg, which was a strategic nerve-center for the German
occupational force. The position with its four big ship-cannons with a range of 55km were
meant to cover the area from Nymindegab to Fanø, but at the capitulation, the enormous
cannon bores were still at Guldager station near Esbjerg.
After the war, the bunkers were cordoned off and used by the armed forces for test
detonations. In 1991, the southern bunker was excavated and made into a museum.
The headquarters in Esbjerg
During World War II, Esbjerg and Fanø were the most heavily fortified areas in Denmark with
approximately 1,200 bunkers. Esbjerg had the only harbor that could be used in case of an
Allied invasion and was therefore an important strongpoint for the occupational forces.
In Strandskoven near Esbjerg lies a huge bunker six meters below ground. During the
occupation, it functioned as a command center for the air defense and all German artillery in
the area. Above ground there is a 15 meters high tower with a telescope. All air, navy and
troop movements in the west Jutland region could be monitored from the bunker. The men in
the command bunker lived in six bunkers, each with room for 20 men, situated around the
underground command bunker.
The German navy headquarters in Esbjerg were initially set up in the now demolished Hotel
Royal, and later moved to a bunker complex in an area between the city and the harbor. The
largest of these bunkers lay deep below the harbor administration, protected by masses of
earth. In the room with the central telephone switchboard, the wall was painted with
phosphorescent paint so even if the light went out, the switchboard could still be seen. All
marine traffic was plotted on charts in this bunker.
The air defense command centre in Strandskoven was central to the Civil Defense in Esbjerg
up until 2003, while, today, the marine headquarters functions as Marinestation Esbjerg.
Batteries on Fanø
To protect Esbjerg harbor, 300 bunkers were built on Fanø. The coast artillery on Fanø
comprised five positions, of which three were situated on the northern part of the island.
Aside from cannon positions to protect the approach to the harbor, positions for heavy air
defense artillery (10.5 cm) were also built on North Fanø.
The Fanø North battery was part of the defense of Esbjerg harbor. The battery was in action
when formations of Allied bombers flew on their way to and from their targets in Germany.
The biggest action took place on August 27, 1944 when 61 American B17-bombers, part of a
fleet of ca. 1,200 heavy bombers and 871 escort fighter planes, having given up attacking
Berlin because of bad weather, attacked the airfield in Esbjerg and the German military
complexes on Fanø. Meanwhile, 63 of the fighter planes attacked trains and vehicles
throughout the west Jutland area. Fifteen Danes were killed and 14 were wounded, mainly
train passengers, on what DSB christened Bloody Sunday.
A long concrete road goes from Fanø Bad and north to Battery Grådyb. The four very modern,
at the time, 15cm cannons came from the battleship Gneisenau. The battleship's secondary
armoring was moved to Fanø when Gneisenau was damaged during an Allied bombing attack.
The cannons were used as coastal defense and had a reach of 22 km. Another of the
batteries, Fanø Plantage, was equipped with four cannons from the Danish Coastal Defense
ship Peter Skram that was sunk by its own crew on August 29, 1943 while at Holmen. After
the war, the battery was taken over by the naval defense that maintained it until 1951, when
the cannons were transferred to Stevns fort south of Copenhagen as part of the military
buildup during the Cold War.
Positions on Rømø
The ocean surrounding Rømø is very shallow, and during the war the dyke to the mainland
had not been built. An Allied invasion on Rømø would have been difficult and the defense was
only sparingly developed.
On the other hand, it was important for the Germans to discover Allied air strikes as early as
possible. Consequently from 1942 and until the end of the war, one increasingly effective
radar station after the other was built on Rømø. When the war ended, there were at least
eight different radar masts on the island, some with names such as Søelefant, Mammut and
Freya. By the end of the war, the radar stations on Rømø were the biggest and most
advanced radar positions in Denmark. All told, 50 bunkers were built on Rømø Island.
The most unusual radar on Rømø was Søelefanten, the only one of its type used during World
War II. Among other things, it was used to locate the point of impact of the V-2 buzz bombs
in England. Under good conditions, the radar system could follow aircraft at a distance of up
to 600km.
Recreation on Mandø
On Mandø there was an air reporting unit to observe and report Allied aircraft. The
observation post was a wooden tower and a pair of binoculars, and the men lived in barracks.
Mandø island was also a place of recreation for soldiers serving on the Eastern Front. One the
German Army's coast batteries was situated on the mainland at the school in Vester Vedsted.
After the war
When the Second World War ended in May 1945, the German soldiers left the bunkers. The
Allied troops held a huge training drill, "Post Mortem", where they tested the Germans’ radar
stations and afterwards took away all the technical installations. All items of equipment,
especially those made of iron, were dismantled, removed from the bunkers and reused.
Nearly all of the bunkers were bricked up and left to the west wind and sand drift.
Things to
do
As a guest to the Wadden Sea, you can explore the different types of bunkers
in the landscape. A few are open for you to take a look inside.
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Fact box 1
On Rømø, it is recommended to visit the Robbe Nord position to see the
bunker related to the Mammut radar mast. Please contact Tønnisgård
Naturcenter to arrange for a tour of the bunkers.
On Fanø, most of the bunkers are closed and some are completely
inaccessible. However, on the north point of Fanø is a well preserved bunker
complex and it is possible to go inside some of the bunkers.
The Fisheries and Maritime museum in Esbjerg has an exhibition in a staff
bunker arranged just as it was during World War II.
In Blåvand, the Tirpitz-bunker functions as a year-round exhibition. By
Blåvandshuk Lighthouse you will find a position with flight radar and a
commando bunker. Please be aware that some bunkers lie within the
Army's training area and access is limited. Guided bunker tours are
available during the summer.
The Atlantic Wall back then
Most of the bunkers along the west coast were built from 1943 - 45 and are
jointly termed the Atlantic Wall. Together, they comprise a defense line of
2,685 km. Along the west coast of Jutland, starting from the German border at
Nymindegab, 1,734 bunkers were built.
Fact box 2
The Atlantic Wall today
The bunkers were made in reinforced concrete. The walls and the ceilings are
from 2 - 3. 5 meters thick. It is a difficult, almost impossible job to detonate a
bunker of 1,500 m3 made from armored concrete. So, most of the bunkers are
left behind layers of sand, hidden in dune plantations or eroded by the wind
and the waves.
Fact box 3
The Regelbau-system
The bunkers were built after the Regelbau-system, which meant construction
sets with shutter board and draft drawings for each type of bunker. This way, it
took hardly any time to pour a bunker. Each bunker had a Regelbau number.
Today, the price for just one personnel bunker of the type R 622 would be ca.
DKK 4 million.
Fact box 4
What did the bunker complexes look like?
In Denmark, the most common type of bunker is the so-called R622, a
personnel bunker intended for 20 soldiers, who all lived fairly comfortably
under 2 meters of armored, reinforced concrete that not even the heaviest
grenade could penetrate.
BUILDINGS AND ARCHITECTURE
BUILDING SETTLEMENTS ALONG THE WADDEN SEA COAST
Forfattere
Elsemarie Dam-Jensen (Museum Sønderjylland Kulturhistorie Tønder)
Mariann Ploug (Museet for Varde By og Omegn)
Oversættelse
Nanna Mercer
Årstider
Hele året
Tags
Værftsbebyggelse; marskgårde; kirker; købstæder; bindingsværk; grundmur;
arkengaf; sommerhuse; Jugendstil; Hjemstavnsstil; Bedre Byggeskik
Foto
eksempler
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Vestslesvisk gård
Lundvej 39, Varde
Ballum Slusekro
SHORT VERSION
1.119 anslag
During the Neolithic period, man started to settle on the elevated Geest along the Wadden
Sea. The first farms were built at the close of the Bronze Age and slowly villages developed.
Around the year 1200, marshland farms were built on natural moraine boulders and, later, in
the southern part of the area, on man-made terps. In the river valleys, the farms lie along the
five meter elevation contour line - safe from flooding.
In the 18th century, brick building came to the Wadden Sea coast and with it the
characteristic Geestharden House that usually consisted of one main wing that was resistant
to storm surges.
In the northern area, timber framing was common until the 18th century, after which brick
building became the norm. The ideal was the four-sided farm with a closed court-yard area.
During the early part of the 20th century, new trends came to the Wadden Sea area. In
Esbjerg, houses were built in the historicist style, while the Art Nouveau style architecture was
common in the cities as well as in the countryside and the south and west Jutlandic
homestead style provided inspiration for neo classicism.
MEDIUM VERSION
2.670 anslag
During the Neolithic period, man started to settle on the elevated Geest along the Wadden
Sea. The first farms were built at the close of the Bronze Age and slowly villages developed.
Thus most of the settlements along the Wadden Sea have their roots several thousand years
ago.
Around the year 1200, marshland farms were built on natural moraine boulders and, later, in
the southern part of the area, on man-made terps. The northern terps made up the village of
Misthusum in Ballummarsken that was later destroyed by storm floods. Today, there are 60
terps in the Danish Wadden Sea area, most with only one farm, but some village terps exist.
To the north, the settlements are situated on hill islands going all the way out to the coast,
and in the river valleys the farms are safe from flooding since they lie along the five meter
elevation contour line.
Market towns emerged during the Middle Ages and were closely linked to ships sailing the
then large and sailable rivers. Back then, Tønder had easy access to the sea, while Varde and
Ribe were dependent on the staple-rights by the Wadden Sea.
From the 18th century, brick building spread up along the Wadden Sea coast from Holland.
Brick-built houses became the norm, with the characteristic Geestharden House that was
originally thatched and usually built with locally produced clay stone. The farm usually
consisted of one main wing including the barn and the living quarters built with interior load
bearing girders that made the construction resistant to storm surges. The dormer (æ
arkengaf) above the main entrance door was a distinctive feature.
In the northern area, timber framing was common until the end of the 18th century, after
which brick construction became the norm. The ideal was the four-sided farm with a closed
court-yard area, but most farms had two or three wings, while smaller farms had just one
wing with barn and living quarters in opposite ends.
By the end of the 19th century and up through the 20th century, several new trends emerged
in the Wadden Sea area. The historicist style houses built in Esbjerg reflected a mixture of
earlier trends, while, later, the Art Nouveau style combined architecture and decorative art in
the cities as well as in the countryside. In the year 1910, Danish architectural students were
inspired by the south and west Jutlandic homestead style that they developed into Bedre
Byggeskik, a form of neo classicism.
There are still many beautifully preserved older homes along the Wadden Sea coast. In the
cities, the preservation societies have been a contributing factor, while in the countryside,
many of the better preserved homes have become holiday homes.
LONG VERSION
6.536 anslag
The architecture along the Wadden Sea is characterized by the many well kept older
homes and settlements. Especially interesting are the terp farms in Tøndermarsken,
the many timber framed and gabled houses in the towns and the well-preserved
village environments.
During the Neolithic period, man started to settle along the Wadden Sea, but on the elevated
Geest to be protected from storm surges. The first, scattered farms were built at the close of
the Bronze Age and slowly villages developed. Most of the settlements along the Wadden Sea
have roots going back several thousand years and by the beginning of the 8th century, Ribe
functioned as the area's marketplace.
The Middle Ages
Around the year 1200, marshland farms were built on natural moraine boulders and, later, in
the southern part of the area, on so-called man-made terps. Today, there are 60 terps in the
Danish Wadden Sea and one of the earliest terp areas is located by Ved Åen in
Tøndermarsken with ten farms. On most terps there was only one farm, while Ubjerg and
Rudbøl are village terps.
The most northern terps in the Wadden Sea area made up the village Misthusum in
Ballummarsken. The village was settled in the 13th century, but was later destroyed by the
storm floods in 1634 and 1720. Shortly after 1800, the village was abandoned, but the terps
are still evident in the landscape.
To the north, the settlements are situated on hill islands going all the way out to the coast,
and in the river valleys lie the old farms, like pearls on a string, and safe from flooding along
the five meter elevation contour line.
Sønderside by Ho Bugt is a good example that a storm flood could suddenly change
everything. This was once one of Denmark's most significant fishing villages, where during the
spring and autumn fishing season more than 1,000 people lived. Sønderside was destroyed by
the storm flood in 1634 and never regained its former position.
The market towns, Tønder and Varde were settled during the Middle Ages and their location
was closely linked to ships sailing the then large and sailable rivers. Before the dyke building
started, Tønder had easy access to the sea, while Varde was dependent on the staple-rights
by Janderup, Hjerting and Ho.
From timber framing to brick construction
From the 18th century, brick building became the norm in the Wadden Sea area. Brick
building spread from Holland and up along the Wadden Sea coast especially after the storm
flood in 1634, but town fires also destroyed many of the timber-framed medieval houses in
Varde and Ribe.
The characteristic farm in the south Jutland area was a Geestharden House that became very
common sometime in the 18th century. The farms were originally thatched and usually built
with locally produced clay stone, fired in local brick-ovens; a tradition that gained acceptance
in the north near Kjelst and Janderup from the mid-18th century. The farm usually consisted
of one main wing with barn and living quarters separated by a transverse room, but there
could be several outbuildings. A very special feature was the interior load-bearing girders that
made the construction more resistant to storm surges. The dormer, arkengaf (arch) above the
main entrance door was another distinctive feature.
Many farms in the northern area also had an arkengaf. Here, timber framing was common
through the 18th century, after which just about all buildings were made with brick
construction. As a rule, the main building was modernized first and then the other wings. The
ideal was the four-sided farm with a closed court-yard area, but most farms had two or three
wings, while smaller farms had just one wing with barn and living quarters in opposite ends.
For timber framed farms, the main building generally faced the north, while for brick
constructed farms it was placed to the south.
Architecture in the 20th century
At the end of the 19th century, Esbjerg City was founded. The new historicist style houses
built in Esbjerg reflected a mixture of earlier trends. In 1870, a city plan was created using
classic city planning principles with rectangular blocks in right-angled street grids aimed at
creating a city centre of the harbor, the railway and the market.
The Art Nouveau style combining architecture and decorative art can be seen in the
architecture along the Wadden Sea, with the house on Lundvej 39 in Varde as a fine-looking
example. Art Nouveau style houses and details can also be found in the countryside and the
small villages - with Hjerpsted as a good example.
Around the year 1900, the first summer cottage area was built in Lakolk on Rømø Island.
Thirty seven log cabins resembling mountain huts with carved rafters were built and some of
them still exist.
In the beginning of the 20th century, a homestead style characterized by good materials and
solid workmanship gained ground. The local land agent for Møgeltønder and the surrounding
country designed homes in this style, among them the pumping stations in Tøndermarsken.
In Denmark, this style was developed by the National Association for better Architecture
(Bedre Byggeskik).
Danish architecture students had been inspired by simple and solid country architecture while
on geological survey trips to Møgeltønder and along the Wadden Sea coast.
The Wadden Sea architecture today
There are still many beautifully preserved older houses along the Wadden Sea coast. In Ribe,
the medieval town center is characterized by timber-framed and brick-constructed houses
dating from the end of the 16th century to the beginning of the 19th century. The houses lie
close, often in blocks and with the gables facing the street.
In Tønder, the town center is also characterized by medieval town planning with narrow lots
and gabled homes, where especially the back streets, Spikergade and Uldgade are worth
seeing.
In Varde, the only building left from the Middle Ages is Jacobi Kirke. Two town fires in,
respectively 1779 and 1821, each laid claim to a part of the medieval town center. However,
the medieval street pattern is still in evidence.
Many country villages have older architecture. For example, in Møgeltønder the houses along
Slotsgaden and Sønderbyen are especially well-preserved.
In the cities, preservation societies have been a contributing factor, while in the countryside a
contributing factor is that many of the better preserved houses have become holiday homes.
An unusual example would be Ballum Vesterende and Østerende where a donation of DKK 20
million by the A.P. Møller Fonden started the renovation projects.
Things to do
The country villages, Møgeltønder, Rudbøl and Janderup have characteristic
village environments
In Varde, Ribe and Tønder, the typically winding, medieval street pattern is in
evidence, while Esbjerg City is characterized by its modern, right-angled
streets
Misthusum, Ubjerg and Ved Åen in Tøndermarsken have good examples of
terp building
Examples of homestead style architecture can be found by Ballum Slusekro
and on Sønderbyvej in Møgeltønder
Around Hjerpsted you will find examples of Art Nouveau, but the building on
Lundvej 39 in is an especially lovely example.
Fact box 1
Markmandshuset
Markmandshuset from 1810 lies on one of the old terps in Ballummarsken.
Originally, there were eleven farms distributed on eight or nine terps. The
farmer (markmanden), who looked after the animals in the salt meadows
lived, up until 1910, in the house during the summer, while up until 1970,
there was a farmer (markmand) in Ballummarsken.
Fact box 2
The churches along the Wadden Sea coasts
The churches on the edge of the Geest along the Wadden Sea are generally
larger than the medieval churches further inland, which is likely a reflection of
the somewhat greater prosperity and denser population in the coast parishes.
The churches in Skærbæk, Brøns, Ballum, Hviding, Vester Vedsted, Vilslev by
Kongeåen, Janderup, Alslev plus Hostrup by Varde River originate in the 11th
or the 12th century.
In Ribe, Sankt Catharinæ Abbey and the Cathedral are examples of wellpreserved religious buildings from the Middle Ages.
Fact box 3
The houses in the market towns
Ribe and Tønder have preserved a great deal of the original architecture.
There are many gable houses with the gables or the long side facing the
street. In Tønder, many houses have bay windows that allow the daylight to
shine far into the dark house.
In Ribe you will find cross-wing houses, a combination of gable and
longhouses. In Varde town center, the old streets are edged with 19th
century brick built houses in one or one and half stories.
Fact box 4
The castle mounds by Varde River
The medieval castle mounds surrounding the royal strongholds Vardehus I
and II are situated in Varde River just west of the town. In 1439, Vardehus
II was stormed and destroyed by rebellious peasants.
Fact box 5
The manor houses near Varde
There are few manor houses in the Wadden Sea area, but around Varde you
will find several typical vest Jutlandic manor houses that on the outside look
mostly like very large farms. Hesselmed by Oksbøl and Visselbjerg by Aslev
both orientate toward Varde River and thus toward the Wadden Sea. Both
were built on castle mounds surrounded by moats. Visselbjerg can be dated
to the 15th century but is, today, a modern farm where the moat still
encircles the garden. In 1525, Hesselmed was established as a manor house.
The main building from 1745 has been recently renovated, and the course of
the moat has been preserved.
Fact box 6
Riberhus
Riberhus Slot was built in the late 13th century. Riberhus and Koldinghus
were the royal border fortifications against the German duchy. During 162729, Riberhus was besieged by German troops, but after the Dano-Swedish
Wars in the middle of the 17th century, the castle was abandoned.
Fact box 7
Trøjborg
North west of Tønder lies the castle ruin Trøjborg. It was built as a castle
during the Middle Ages and later, ca. 1580, resurrected as a four-winged
renaissance building. You can still see the castle mound, the moats and the
renaissance ruins.
Fact box 8
Schackenborg
In 1661, the medieval Møgeltønderhus was assigned to Commander Hans
Schack. In the following years, he built the current Schackenborg, a threewinged baroque building, on the ruins of the old construction.
Fact box 9
Tønderhus
In the 16th century, the medieval castle Tønderhus was built on the shore of
Vidåen. The renaissance castle was demolished in the 18th century, but the
gate house and the castle banks are still situated just south of Tønder's town
center.
Fact box 10
Kommandørgårdene
Kommandørgårdene are very characteristic farms on the Wadden Sea islands.
They can still be seen on Rømø and on the German Wadden Sea islands.
These farms were built by wealthy captains (kommandører), pilots of the
whaling ships that sailed the North Atlantic Ocean. The one belonging to the
National Museum was built ca. 1750, and is the oldest and best preserved of
its kind in Denmark.
Fact box 11
Master-builders from Varde
In Varde, two master-builders stand out during this period, also outside of
Varde: Peder Frisvad (1748-1787) and Mikkel Stobberup (1761-1844). The
recurring style for both master-builders was classicistic with bare brick work
and white-washed details. Since Stobberup married Frisvad's widow, they
both lived on Rosengården a few km east of Varde.
Peder Frisvad's houses
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Varde Rådhus (1785)
Nordby Kirke (1786)
Nørholm (1780), main building, ascribed
Bramming Hovedgård (1786), ascribed
Mikkel Stobberup's houses
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Sct. Jacobi Kirke, Varde (1812), restored and re-built
Den Schultzske Gård, Varde (1797), ascribed
Den Kampmannske Gård, Varde (1800), modernized and ascribed
Gellerupholm, Varde (1819)
Amtmandsboligen, Ribe (1797), ascribed
Korsbrødregaard, Ribe (1801), ascribed
Several town houses in Ribe
THE TRILATERAL WADDEN SEA
TRANSNATIONAL COOPERATION IN A SHARED LANDSCAPE
Forfattere
Mette Guldberg (Fiskeri- og Søfartsmuseet)
Søren Rask Jessen (Naturstyrelsen Ribe)
Oversættelse
Nanna Mercer
Årstider
Hele året - sær juni (fannikerdag, Sønderhodag) og februar (Pers Awten)
Tags
samarbejde; trilateral; økosystem; værfter; diger; kog; stormflod; frisere;
byggeskik; grænser; sprog; kultur
Foto
eksempler
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Misthusum - de nordligste værfter i hele Vadehavsområdet.
Bål Pers Awten
Grænsestenen i Rudbøl, som ligger midt i gaden
SHORT VERSION
1.115 anslag
The Wadden Sea stretches from Holland, around Tyske Bugt in Germany to Denmark,
comprising a landscape with great variations. The tidal differences vary from ca. 1.3 m to 3.5
m, while the width of the landscape varies from 10 - 30 km.
The shared vision for those who chose to settle in the marshland was the need to be protected
against extreme high tides. Dikes and terps, the latter being man-made mounds for
habitation, were first introduced in the southern part and only later in the Danish part of the
Wadden Sea.
Seafaring has contributed to the mutual influence along the Wadden Sea coast, which is seen
clearly in the architecture, interior decoration, dress costumes, music and many other
traditions.
Today, the Wadden Sea coastal strip stretches across three countries that cooperate in the
"Trilateral Wadden Sea Cooperation" with the shared objective of protecting and conserving
the Wadden Sea though management, monitoring and research. In 2009, the Dutch and the
German part of the Wadden Sea were inscribed on UNESCO's World Heritage List, and in
2010, the Danish part was nominated as a National Park.
MEDIUM VERSION
2.679 anslag
The Wadden Sea stretches 500 km from Den Helder in Holland and around Tyske Bugt in
Germany to Blåvands Huk in Denmark. It is protected against the North Sea by 23 barrier
islands and 13 sandflats, and covers an area of ca. 8.000 km 2 not including the islands.
The Wadden Sea is a mosaic of ecosystems comprised of tidal areas near the rivers and
creeks. Differences in the tide, the gradients in the landscape and the spread of meltwater
plains create a landscape with huge variations. The tidal difference varies from ca. 1.3 m to
3.5 meters, while the width of the marshland behind the barrier islands and on the mainland
varies from up to 30 km in Holland to, at most, 10 km in Denmark.
The Wadden Sea and the fertile marshland has always attracted people, and the shared vision
for those who elected to settle here was the need to protect themselves against extreme
tides.
In the Dutch marshland, man settled on man-made mounds, so-called terps, for centuries
before our calendar, while in Germany, the settlements occurred for centuries thereafter. In
the Danish part of the Wadden Sea, where the marshland is narrower, man did not settle on
terps until the Middle Ages, and the terps were smaller in size and numbers than those further
south.
The dikes in the Danish part of the Wadden Sea are also not as old as those in the southern
areas. The early dikes were summer dikes built mainly to protect fields and crops against
summer flooding. Later on, ocean dikes were built to keep water away from large areas of
land and in this way to withstand storm surges. It is thought that the earliest ocean dikes in
the southern parts of the Wadden Sea areas were built in the 9th century, while the oldest in
the present Danish area were built in 1557.
Seafaring has provided contact among the populations living along the Wadden Sea coastlines
and it is possible to trace the mutual influence in so many ways. This is seen, not only in the
art of dike-building and land-dredging, but also in the architecture, interior decoration, dress
costumes and musical traditions, just as it is still tradition in many places to have bonfires on
Per Awten on February 21.
Today, the Wadden Sea coasts stretches alongside three countries, but the borders and the
various affiliations have changed over time. Since 1978, the three Wadden Sea countries have
cooperated in the "Trilateral Wadden Sea Cooperation" with the shared objective of protecting
and conserving the Wadden Sea though management, monitoring and research. In 2009, the
Dutch and the German part of the Wadden Sea were inscribed on UNESCO's World Heritage
List, and in 2010, the Danish Wadden Sea was appointed a National Park.
LONG VERSION
5.452 anslag
The Wadden Sea coastline stretches along the Danish, the German and the Dutch
coasts. Here are stretches with similarities and variations in nature and landscape
as well as culture. Since 1978, the three countries have cooperated in the protection
of the shared Wadden Sea.
The Danish Wadden Sea is part of the Danish, German and Dutch Wadden Sea that stretches
from Dan Helder in Holland, around Tyske Bugt in Germany to Blåvands Huk in Denmark. Of
the total 500km stretch of coastline the Danish part is ca. 10 percent. The Wadden Sea is
protected again the North Sea by 23 barrier islands and 13 sandflats. It covers an area of ca.
8,000 km2 not including the islands, of which approximately two thirds or 5,500 km 2 are part
of the dried waddens at the low tide.
In spite of its apparent uniformity, the Wadden Sea is not a single ecosystem. It is an
interconnected and overlapping mosaic of ecosystems comprised of tidal areas between the
creeks and the rivers. In spite of apparent commonalities and similarities, the tidal
differences, the landscape gradients and the many meltwater plains, create a landscape with
great variations. The tidal difference, for example, varies from ca. 1.3 m near Den Helder and
Ho Bugt to 3.5 m at the bottom of Tyske Bugt. Likewise, the marshland that the ocean
created behind the barrier islands varies greatly in size. In Holland, the width of the
marshland from the Wadden Sea to the Geest can be 30 km in some places. In Denmark, the
marshland exists by and large only in the river valleys around the creek estuaries and
stretches, at most, 10 km into the river valleys.
Living by the ocean
The Wadden Sea and the fertile marshland have always had an attraction for people who saw
the possibilities for creating a good life. The shared vision for those who elected to settle in
the undiked areas was the need to protect themselves against the ocean during extreme tides
and storm surges. The oldest terps - artificial mounds made for habitation - are known from
the Dutch part of the Wadden Sea and can be dated to centuries BC, while those in Germany
date to centuries thereafter. In the Danish part of the Wadden Sea, where the marshland is
very narrow, man did not settle on terps until the Middle Ages. Throughout the Danish area,
there are only about 50 terps while further south there are thousands. As well, the Danish
terps are very small; most of them with space enough for only one farm while further south,
terps are large enough to contain whole villages.
As well, the dikes in the Danish part of the Wadden Sea are not as old as those in the
southern areas. The early dikes were summer dikes built mainly to protect fields and crops
against flooding throughout the summer. Later on, ocean dikes were built to keep water away
from large areas of land and to withstand storm surges. It is estimated that the earliest ocean
dikes in the southern part of the Wadden Sea areas were built in the 9th century, while the
first ocean dike in the present Danish area, Hertug Hans’ Dige between Højer and Rudbøl, was
built in 1557. The land area behind a dike is called a 'kog' a Frisian term used along the
Wadden Sea coast.
The Frisians
The art of building dikes and dredging land is loosely connected with the Frisians, who live on
the Wadden Sea islands and the coast areas south of the Danish border. Frisian is spoken in
three different forms: West Frisian in the Dutch province Friesland, East Frisian in Lower
Saxony and North Frisian in Schleswig-Holstein. Denmark does not have any Frisian
population and opinions differ whether any of the Danish Wadden Sea Islands are part of the
Frisian islands. There is no doubt, however, that the architecture, among other things, has
been clearly influenced by the Frisian building style, in layout as well as in the materials and
the choice of color.
Changing borders
Through more than a thousand years of seafaring, the population along the Wadden Sea has
had mutual contact where the influence can be traced in so many ways. This is true of interior
decorating, dress costumes and the musical traditions, just as there are many places where
bonfires are lit on Per Awten - or Biirkebrennen, as it is called in Frisian - on February 21,
which is the traditional fare-well party for those seafarers going south to sign up for a voyage.
But the area has also been touched by changing border demarcations with consequent
changes in legislation and administration. Today, the Wadden Sea coastal area stretches
across three countries, but borders and affiliations have changed over time.
From 1864 to 1920, the Danish-German the border was near Hviding, south of Ribe, but has
since 1920 been placed near Rudbøl.
The Trilateral cooperation
Since 1978, the three Wadden Sea countries Denmark, Germany and Holland, have worked
on ministerial levels at the so-called" Trilateral Wadden Sea Cooperation" with the shared
objective of protecting and conserving the Wadden Sea though management, monitoring and
research. As part of these efforts 11,000 km 2 of land has been set up as an interconnected
protection zone.
In 2009, the Dutch and the German part of the Wadden Sea were inscribed on UNESCO's
World Heritage List, while Denmark has been a trifle more reluctant about joining the Heritage
Project. A final decision regarding this question is expected during the year 2014.
In October, 2010, the Danish part of the Wadden Sea was appointed Denmark's third National
Park.
Things to
see and do
Festivities
 Sønderhodag
 Fannikerdag
 Pers Awten
Places
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Fact box
Egebæk-Hviding: The earlier border station between Germany and
Denmark (until 1920)
The border stone in Rudbøl
Terps in Tøndermarsken and in Ballummarsken
Dikes along the coast from the border to Roborghus south of Esbjerg
Frisian architecture, especially on the islands.
Denmark's Third National Park
In 2010, the Danish part of the Wadden Sea was appointed Denmark's third
National Park with Thy and Mols Bjerge in the first and second place. The
Wadden Sea with its 1,466 km2 of which 300 km2 is land, is Denmark's biggest
National park. It extends across four municipalities: Tønder, Esbjerg, Fanø and
Varde.
LIFE ON THE WADDENS
THE EBB AND FLOW BENEATH THE SURFACE
Forfattere
Lasse Fast Jensen (Fiskeri- og Søfartsmuseet)
Torben Kjærgaard (Vadehavscentret)
Oversættelse
Nanna Mercer
Årstider
Vinter, forår, sommer
Tags
Tidevand; østers; tidevandsstrøm; vandfugle
Foto
eksempler
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Sandorm
Rødspætte
Fugle der fouragerer på vaden
SHORT VERSION
1.097 anslag
The Wadden Sea is like a giant pantry. The rich animal life is partly due to the high occurrence
of algae that are the first link in the food chain.
On the wadden, laver spire shells, oysters and the common mussels all help create habitats
for many other organisms. Most of this life is buried in the wadden, such as sandhoppers and
rockworms that live in passages in the seabed.
The Wadden Sea is a reproductive area for several species of fish. An important ingredient in
their diet is the rock worm which can afford to lose its tail should it be caught by a fish.
The rich animal life on the wadden also represents a lavish buffet for wading birds, and the
Wadden Sea is an important resting place when birds migrate from their breeding grounds in
the north to their wintering areas in the south.
Life on the wadden follows the changing of the seasons. During the summer there is plenty of
food, while many species leave the Wadden Sea during the winter. Animals that cannot move
are very vulnerable during harsh winters, but come spring, fry from deeper waters will quickly
repopulate the wadden.
MEDIUM VERSION
2.621 anslag
Compared to an average seafloor, the Wadden Sea wadden contains ten times as many
animals measured by weight, and with a total area of 4,700 km 2 it is one giant pantry.
The rich animal life is largely due to the tide that brings nutrition-rich waters into the Wadden
Sea. The microscopic algae, found in high occurrences found not only floating in the water,
but also on its surface, as well as down in the wadden, are the first link in the food chain.
On the surface of the wadden lives the tiny, but abundantly plentiful, spire shell, while beds of
oysters and common mussels create habitats for many other organisms. Bladder wrack, for
example, gains a foothold here in the strong tidal current.
Most of the teeming life is found buried in the wadden's layers of sand and silt. Most of the
animals are very tiny, like the eelworm, but they often appear in dizzying numbers. Another
abundant animal is the sandhopper that lives in passages in the seafloor, where it consumes
decomposed plant material and bacteria, which it filters from the water or collects from the
seafloor.
The rockworm is also important for the wadden, where it lives down in a U-shaped tube. It
eats those algae that sit on the surface of the grains of sand, and when it has to empty its
bowels, it sticks its rear end out of the tube, thus disposing of excrements that pile up on the
surface.
The Wadden Sea with its abundance of food is a reproductive area for several species of fish
before they grow large enough to move towards the North Sea. An important food source for
the fish is the rockworms that are especially vulnerable when they deposit their excrements.
However, the rockworm is made so it can afford to lose its tail several times should a fish take
a bite.
The rich animal life on the wadden presents a lavish buffet for wading birds. The Wadden Sea
is an important resting area for the many species of birds that migrate each year from their
breeding grounds in the north to their wintering areas in the south.
Every year, 12 million birds visit the Wadden Sea. Many of them stop only for a short while to
stock up for their onward journey, while others stay in the area for the winter.
Life on the wadden follows the changing seasons. During the summer, when the temperature
is auspicious, there is plenty of food in the Wadden Sea, while during the winter many species
leave the Wadden Sea in favor of warmer and deeper waters. Animals that cannot move are
very vulnerable during harsh winters, but come spring, fry from deeper waters will quickly
repopulate the wadden, so concurrent with the warmer temperatures the animals return.
LONG VERSION
5.175 anslag
At a first glance, the wadden looks barren and sterile with its vast and bare surfaces
of sand, but appearances are deceptive. The ebb and flow of life beneath the surface
is so immense that it is only surpassed by a few other animal societies.
Compared to an average seafloor, the wadden contains ten times as many animals measured
by weight, and with a total area of 4,700 km 2 it is a giant pantry.
The rich animal life is largely due to the tide, that twice every 24 hours brings nutrition-rich
waters into the shallow Wadden Sea. Life here is based on the high occurrences of
microscopic algae, especially diatoms that are the first link in the food chain. Diatoms are
found not only floating in the water, but also on its surface, as well as down in the wadden.
The brown color often seen on the wadden is due to these algae.
Most of the teeming life is found buried in the wadden's layers of sand and silt. On the clean
sand and in the clean silt, animal life is relatively poor. The largest number of animals is found
where the composition of silt is between 2 - 20 percent. Some species, such as the cockle and
the blunt gaper are clearly visible if you dig just a little down into the wadden. There can be
many thousands of cockles on just one square meter. Most of the animals are very tiny, but
they often appear in dizzying numbers. For example, there can be more than 100 eelworms
on just 1 cubic centimeter of wadden. On the surface of the wadden lives the tiny, but
abundantly plentiful spire shell measuring only a few millimeters and therefore easy to miss.
However, it you look closely, you will note that it is immensely abundant. On just one square
meter there can be more than 120,000 spire shells. Beds of oysters and common mussels
create habitats for many other organisms. Bladder wrack, for example, has found a way to
gain a foothold in the strong tidal current.
The wadden’s land developers
Another abundant animal is the tiny sandhopper that, in certain places can be found in
numbers of 100,000 for every square meter. The sandhopper lives in passages in the seafloor,
where it consumes decomposed plant material and bacteria, which it filters from the water or
collects from the seafloor. The sandhopper's digging activity is important for the chemical
conversion and stability of the ocean floor.
The rockworm is also important for the wadden. Testimony to this fact can be found
everywhere in the shape of small piles of sand. The rockworm lives down in the wadden inside
a U-shaped tube. Here it eats sand while harnessing the algae that sit on the surface of the
sand. When, occasionally, it has to empty its bowel of grains of sand, it sticks its rear end out
of the tube thus disposing of excrements that pile up on the surface. Each rockworm eats
between 20 - 25 kilos of sand per year. The rockworm also creates a current of water through
its tube, making it possible for many other organisms to live down in the sand.
A kindergarten for fish
The Wadden Sea is a reproductive area for many fish species. During the winter, the plaice
spawn in the flowing waters southwest of the Wadden Sea where the ocean currents lead the
larvae into the Wadden Sea, where they spend the first 2 or 3 years of their lives feasting on
the huge food supply before leaving for the North Sea. Sole and herring also use the Wadden
Sea as a kindergarten. Rockworms represent an important food source for the many fish and
when a rockworm with its rear end out of the tube disposes of its excrements it is especially
vulnerable. The fish take advantage of this, but the rockworm rear end is fashioned in such a
way that it falls off when caught by a fish. In this way, the rockworm is more frightened than
hurt. It can stand losing its tail several times and this is a necessity, for inside the gut of the
plaice one can find more ends than whole rockworms.
A pantry for birds
The rich animal life on the wadden presents a lavish buffet for wading birds. The Wadden Sea
is an important resting area for the many species of birds that migrate each year from their
breeding grounds in the north to their wintering areas in the south. Every year, 12 million
birds visit the Wadden Sea. Many of them stop only for a short while to stock up for their
onward journey, while others stay in the area for the winter.
The passing of the year on the wadden
Life on the wadden follows the changing seasons. During the summer, the animal life is rich
and varied. The temperature is auspicious and there is plenty of food. With winter coming
many species leave the Wadden Sea in favor of warmer and deeper waters. This is also true
of the common shrimp that breeds in other waters. The plaice and its fry also leave the
Wadden Sea during the winter. Animals that cannot move are very vulnerable during harsh
winters. The cockle is also intolerant to cold and during cold winters much of the stock dies on
the wadden. Come spring, fry from deeper waters will quickly repopulate the wadden, so
concurrent with the warmer temperatures the animals return to the wadden. The young
shrimp arrive in huge numbers and also crabs, fish and worms are part of the teeming life on
the wadden.
Things to
do
Nature guides frequently arrange guided tours to the wadden when, among
other things, they talk about the animal life and how man, through time, has
lived in the Wadden Sea area. Tours and actual arrangements can be seen
here: www.vadehav.dk
Fact box
Experience the wadden
There are good possibilities for experiencing the wadden really close up - and
there is something for every taste and temperament. If you are up to it, you
can, without problems, go exploring on your own. It can be a good idea to
bring a potato digger to make it easier to dig up mussels. It is quite exciting to
explore the hidden life beneath the surface, but it can be dangerous to move
too far out on the wadden, so you must be well prepared so you can avoid
unpleasant surprises. The tide can come very quickly and it is easy to forget
time when you explore life on the wadden. We recommend that you plan your
trip according to the tide table prognosis and that you decide in advance what
time to start on the way back. Watch out for an especially dense and
impenetrable ocean fog that shrouds the wadden in a quilt that makes it very
difficult to get your bearings. A compass or a GPS-receiver is therefore an
important part of your equipment so you do not get lost.
LIFE ON THE WADDEN SEA ISLANDS
– FROM A COMMUNITY OF INDEPENDENT WOMENFOLK TO A DESTINATION FOR TOURISTS
Forfattere
Anne Marie Overgaard (Museum Sønderjylland)
Mette Slyngborg (Sydvestjyske Museer)
Oversættelse
Nanna Mercer
Årstider
Hele året
Tags
Fanø; Mandø; Rømø; Vadehavsø; søfart; dragt; turisme; strandliv;
Foto
eksempler
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Turisme på Fanø omkring 1900
Fannikerdage / Sønderho Dag
Rømø Dragefestival
Låningsvejen til Mandø
SHORT VERSION
1.175 anslag
The Danish Wadden Sea islands have been settled since the Middle Ages. Starting in the 17th
century and ending in the last half of the 19th century, the maritime industry was the main
trade on the islands. The whaling expeditions to the North Atlantic Ocean are especially
famous. Fishing and agriculture were the fundamental occupations on the islands, but
functioned for many years as a subsidiary to the maritime industry.
Many men set out on long voyages and their women lived large parts of the year alone on the
islands with their children and the elderly. Thus, the women took care of all tasks on the
islands at home as well as outside the home.
The women became very independent and, especially from the latter part of the 19th century,
used their dress costumes to emphasize this independence as well as their identities as
islanders.
During the latter half of the 19th century, tourism became a new, large and important source
of income on the islands. Both Fanø and Rømø established seaside resorts and holiday homes
meant to attract tourists from home and abroad.
The islands still attract many tourists and today, tourism is critical for the economy on the
islands.
MEDIUM VERSION
2.800 anslag
The Danish Wadden Sea islands have been settled since the Middle Ages. Starting in the 17th
century and ending in the last half of the 19th century, the maritime industry was the main
trade on the islands. The whaling expeditions to the North Atlantic Ocean with Dutch and
German whaling ships are especially famous. The wealth from the maritime industry has
made a lasting imprint on the islands, especially on the architecture. In the 19th century,
shipping abated on Rømø and Mandø, while Nordby on Fanø experienced growth in the sailing
and shipbuilding industries from the middle of the 19th century.
Fishing and agriculture were the fundamental occupations on the islands, but functioned for
many years as a subsidiary to the maritime industry.
There was a strong seafaring tradition within the families and many men set out on long
voyages. On the ships, the men were part of an international seafaring culture, while the
women lived large parts of the year alone on the islands with their children and the elderly.
Thus the women took care of all tasks on the islands, at home as well as outside the home.
The women hereby developed a culture on the islands permeated by drive and independence,
values that the women emphasized to the outside world through their use of the local dress
costumes. From the latter half of the 19th century, the women's dress costumes were
predominantly used on festive occasions or for highlighting their independence as islanders
and that is how the costumes became a hallmark on all the islands. Today, the dress culture is
still alive on Fanø, but no longer in use on Rømø and Mandø.
During the latter half of the 19th century, the seeds were planted for tourism to become a
new and important source of revenue on the islands. The increased focus on fresh air and sea
bathing created a new potential: beach tourism. In 1851, the first seaside resort opened in
Nordby on Fanø and bathing machines, beach pavilions and beach hotels proliferated for
several decades both on Vesterstranden and in Sønderho. With the foundation of Nordsøbadet
Fanøbad in 1891, the ambition became one of attracting an international audience to Fanø.
Rømø joined the seaside surge in 1898 when "Skærbækpræsten" Johannes Jacobsen founded
Nordseebad Lakolk. Hotels, seaside resorts, small inns and a row of holiday homes were built
in the dunes on Lakolk beach.
The islands still attract many tourists and today, tourism is critical for the economy on the
islands. The environment and the beaches spiced with traces of the island's history though the
captain farms and towns, seaside resorts and holiday homes show important aspects of the
history and the culture of the Wadden Sea. This means that staying on the islands, for
islanders as well as tourists, is a very special experience.
LONG VERSION
6.908 anslag
For almost three centuries, the maritime industry changed the way of life on the
Wadden Sea islands - also economically by the men's absence. During the last 150
years, the islands have experienced a conflicting trend: tourists seeking the
incredible beaches and the awe-inspiring nature.
The Danish Wadden Sea islands have been settled since the Middle Ages. Life on the islands
has been permeated by two conflicting currents: maintaining the islands' traditions and way
of life in contrast to the modern life the men came into contact with though their sailing in
international waters.
Starting in the 17th century and ending in the last half of the 19th century, the maritime
industry was the main trade on the islands. The whaling expeditions to the North Atlantic
Ocean with Dutch and German whaling ships are especially famous - expeditions that started
on Rømø in the middle of the 17th century with Fanø following troop barely a 100 years later.
The wealth from the maritime industry has made a lasting imprint on the islands, especially
on the architecture, where the Frisian-inspired farms on Rømø and the Captains' homes in
Sønderho show the prosperity of the 18th century. During the 19th century, the maritime
industry abated on Rømø and Mandø, where farming and husbandry started to play a more
important role, while on Fanø, Nordby took over from Sønderho and thus experienced growth
in the sailing and shipbuilding industries from the middle of the 19th century when Nordby
was at its most prosperous.
Fishing and agriculture were the primary occupations on the islands, but functioned for many
years as a subsidiary to the maritime industry. Farming was very difficult, since the soil was
poor and sand drift an ever-present problem.
From the middle of the last century, Fanø and Rømø attracted attention as tourist destinations
and, since then tourism has been the primary industry on the islands.
The Islands – a community of womenfolk
The lives of the men and the women were very different. There was a strong seafaring
tradition within all families and many men went on long voyages. On the ships, the men were
part of an international seafaring culture where they became inspired by modernity and the
world at large, while the women lived most of the year on the islands, alone with their
children and the elderly. Thus the women took care of all tasks on the islands: not just the
housekeeping tasks but all tasks concerned with farming, agriculture, trade, worm digging,
buying and selling property, solving legal disputes and the financing of ships.
The women on the islands developed a culture permeated by drive and independence, values
that the women marketed to the outside world through their use of the local dress costumes.
When the young girls from Fanø and Rømø looked for a position in Ribe, they used their dress
costumes to express independence, community and identity. From the latter half of the 19th
century, the women's dress costumes were predominantly used on festive occasions or for
highlighting their independence as islanders and that is how the costumes became a hallmark
on all the islands.
The dress costumes
When the town fashion finally reached the Wadden Sea islands during the latter part of the
19th century, the women used their dress costumes predominantly on festive occasions or for
highlighting their identities as islanders and that is how the costumes became a hallmark for
all the islands. Concurrently, the Fanø-painters arrived and contributed through their paintings
to uphold the notion of a very special dress culture. Still, up through the middle of the 20th
century, some women continued to use the local dress as everyday clothing.
The costumes were very alike, but with local variations in the form of cut, color and headgear.
On Fanø, there were dresses for every occasion: everyday, holiday, happiness or sorrow. An
especially notable part of the costume was "studen" that covers the face and protects the skin
against the sun, the wind and the weather while working in the fields. On Rømø, the women
distinguished between the everyday costume and the holiday costume.
Today, the dress culture is still alive on Fanø where it can be experienced on Fanniker Days
and Sønderho Days. However, the dress costumes are no longer in use on Rømø and Mandø.
Sun, saltwater and speculators
During the latter half of the 19th century, the seeds were planted for tourism to become a
new and important source of revenue on the islands. The increased focus on fresh air and sea
bathing created a new potential: beach tourism. In 1851, the first seaside resort opened in
Nordby on Fanø and bathing machines, beach pavilions and beach hotels proliferated for
several decades both on Vesterstranden and in Sønderho. With the foundation of Nordsøbadet
Fanøbad in 1891, the ambition became one of attracting an international audience to Fanø. In
connection with Fanøbad, Denmark's first golf course was built in 1901. After the downturn in
international tourism during World War I, Denmark's first flight route was established between
Copenhagen and Fanø Strand during the weekends. At the same time, car races, horse races
and bicycle races were arranged in order to attract tourists.
It was the dream of striking it rich that caused Rømø to join the seaside surge in 1898 when
"Skærbækpræsten" Johannes Jacobsen founded Nordseebad Lakolk. Jacobsen was an
enterprising man, who since 1890 had built a business emporium on the mainland. The
economy tottered dangerously, but the good pastor saw his savior in tourism. Hotels, seaside
resorts, small inns and a row of holiday homes were built in the dunes on Lakolk beach.
However, the resort went bankrupt after only a few years, among other reasons because of
poor access conditions from the mainland, and took the rest of the pastor's enterprises down
with it. Some of the very characteristic Lakolk holiday homes still stand among the dunes,
where you can get the feeling of a completely different type of holiday home anno 1900.
Life on the Wadden Sea Islands today
The islands still attract many tourists, and today tourism is critical for the economy on the
islands. Access to and from Rømø and Mandø have been eased with the Rømø Dike and
Låningsvejen, while you still sail to Fanø. This has made an especially big difference for the
tourism on Rømø, where there are far more tourist than on Mandø and Fanø. In spite of this,
the island still struggles with de-population. Lately, Fanø has experienced a surge in the
number of inhabitants, many of whom work in Esbjerg only a 12 minute ferry ride away.
The environment and the beaches spiced with traces of the island's history though the
captains’ farms and towns, seaside resorts and holiday homes show important aspects of the
history and the culture of the Wadden Sea. Staying on the islands, for islanders as well as
tourists, is a very special experience.
Things to
do
Yearly recurring events
On Fanø, you can experience the dress costumes on Fanniker Days and
Sønderho Days, while on both Fanø and Rømø there are kite festivals on the
wide beaches. On Mandø there is the yearly Mandø Marathon.
Exhibitions:
 Fanø Skibsfart og Dragtsamling in Nordby
 Fanø Museum: stories of Fanø-history in a 300-year-old home in Nordby
 Sønderho Kunstmuseum exhibits works that relate to the artist colonies
in Sønderho and the Wadden Sea
 Sønderho Mølle
 Rømø: Nationalmuseets Kommandørgård on Rømø
 Museum Sønderjylland Skærbæk: stories about pastor Jacobsen and
Nordseebad Lakolk.
 Good offers on all the islands – please see the relevant Tourist Offices
Fact box 1
Inhabitants on the Danish Wadden Sea islands, then and now:
Population Fanø:
1921: 2938
2012: 3251
Population Mandø:
1921: 195
2012: 41
Population Rømø:
1921: 699
2012: 647
Source: Danmark Statistik
Fact box 2
Tourists on the Danish Wadden Sea islands 2010
Rømø:
1.2 million overnight guests
1.6 million one-day tourists
Fanø
780,000 overnight guests
130,000 one-day tourists
Source: Fanø, Rømø, og Ribe Tourist Offices.
THE MARSH- ITS USE, NATURE & CULTURE
- GOD CREATED THE WORLD - BUT MAN CREATED THE COAST
Forfattere
Anne Marie Overgaard (Museum Sønderjylland)
Klaus Melbye (Vadehavscentret)
Oversættelse
Nanna Mercer
Årstider
Forår, sommer, efterår
Tags
Marsk; dige; digning; stormflod; oversvømmelse; afvanding; sluse
Foto
eksempler
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Vandløb i tre niveauer (Tøndermarsken)
Ballum: geestrandbebyggelsen
En sluse
Granbeplantning på Rømø
Gamle fotos af åben uinddiget marsk
Foto fra etableringen af Snurom Pumpestation ved Højer
SHORT VERSION
1.053 anslag
The marsh is known by its flat, grass-covered landscape that forms the transition between the
sandy Geest in the east and the Wadden in the west. The marsh is very fertile and man
settled on the marshland early on.
During the 17th and 18th centuries, marshland was used for fattening cattle that was later
sold especially to Holland. The closeness to the ocean was important since it formed a natural
infrastructure. The flat landscape was and is also vulnerable to storm surges.
Dikes were built! The earliest dikes were low summer-dikes. Later, taller, ocean-dikes were
built to keep out the masses of water caused by winter storms.
However, the diking caused problems with backwater from the rivers. At a prolonged high
tide, the river water could not pass through the locks and instead flooded the land behind the
dikes, so over time many marshland areas were drained.
Up until the middle of the 20th century, the marshland was used to fatten cattle and for
harvesting hay. In the beginning of the 1950s, actual cultivation of the land became a reality.
MEDIUM VERSION
2.403 anslag
The marshland has been called "The gift of the ocean" since it is born of the Wadden Sea
dynamic where twice a day the tide carries and deposits sediments that with time form new
land. The marsh is known by its flat, grass-covered landscape that forms the transition
between the sandy Geest in the east and the Wadden in the west.
The marsh is very fertile and early on attracted mankind, who decided to settle there. Several
places along the coast it is possible to find traces of early settlements.
The grass-covered marshland was well-suited for husbandry. During the 17th and 18th
centuries trading cattle, especially to Holland, added significantly to the income of the many
farmers in the area. The proximity to the ocean played an important role since, during the
latter part of the 19th century, it provided a natural infrastructure that made it easy to get
around. The flat landscape was and is also vulnerable to storm surges.
Inspired by the Frisians, dikes were built. The earliest were low summer-dikes that could
protect the land against the daily tide. Later, taller dikes, the so-called ocean-dikes were built.
They kept out the masses of water caused by winter storms.
The diking caused problems with back water from the rivers that run through the marsh.
Locks by the dikes should help the river water's passage through the dikes at low tide, but
when storms caused a prolonged high tide the locks had to remain closed, and during the
winter this caused the rivers to flood the land behind the dikes.
The reorganization from husbandry to agriculture meant an increased interest in more
effective ways to use the marshland. With time, many marshland areas were therefore
drained and dried out.
Up until the middle of the 20th century, the marsh was cultivated to a very limited extent,
since the flat grassy areas were used mainly for fattening cattle and harvesting hay.
Cultivating the land started in the 1950s and up through the 1970s, when oats were the main
crop since it thrived in the damp soil and could be used as fodder. As well, the greater tractor
power made it possible to plough through the heavy marshland soil.
The reorganization from large grassy areas of land to agriculture created problems with sand
flight, which, in some areas can still be a problem, albeit to a smaller extent, immediately
after ploughing. The solution to the problem was windbreaks, mostly from spruce.
LONG VERSION
6.306 anslag
The marshland in the Danish Wadden Sea area is a dynamic landscape that has been
subjected to huge changes - at the hand of nature and man, both.
The marshland has been called "The gift of the ocean" since it is born of the Wadden Sea
dynamic where the tide, twice a day, carries and deposits sediments that with time form new
land. The marsh is known by its flat, grass-covered landscape that forms the transition
between the sandy Geest in the east and the Wadden in the west.
The large marshland areas along the Danish Wadden Sea are Darummarsken,
Tjæreborgmarsken, Ribemarsken, Rejsbymarsken, Ballummarsken and Tøndermarsken.
Settlements
The marsh is very fertile land and in the distant past attracted people who decided to settle
there. Several places along the coast it is possible to find traces of early settlements such as
Hjemsted Banke near Ballummarsken that was settled in 500 AD.
The most northern area is Ballummarsken by Misthusum where, later, terps were established
in the marsh itself as a way to live more protected against the sea.
The grass-covered marshland was well-suited for husbandry. During the 17th and 18th
centuries, trading cattle, especially to Holland, added significantly to the income of the many
farmers in the area. The proximity to the ocean also played an important role since, during
the latter part of the 19th century, it provided a natural infrastructure that made it easy to get
around.
There were also dangers connected with the marsh: the flat landscape was and is vulnerable
to storm surges.
Land reclamation and diking
Inspired by the Frisians, dikes were built. The earliest dikes were low summer-dikes that could
protect the land against the daily tide. During the Middle Ages the whole area along the
Wadden Sea coast experienced several storm surges that were so destructive that a wish for
more effective protection for man and land against the fury of the ocean was a natural
consequence. So, man built taller dikes, the so-called ocean-dikes that could keep the masses
of water caused by winter storms away from the marshland. In this way, bite by bite, the
open marshland was transformed to "real" farmland. Diking of the Danish part of the Wadden
Sea started in Tøndermarsken, where the first ocean-dike was built in 1556 and the last one
in 1985 when Det Fremskudte Dige and Vidåslusen were inaugurated. The long-standing land
reclamation has made Vidåen 20 km. longer and only the ship depicted on the town arms
bears witness to the fact that Tønder was once close to the coast.
Ribemarsken was diked in 1911-1915, Ballummarsken in 1914-1919, Tjæreborg and
Darummarsken in 1927-29, with the marshland around Ho Bugt being the only area in the
Wadden Sea region that has not been diked.
The diking caused problems with back water from the rivers that run through the marsh.
Locks by the dikes should help the river water's passage through the dikes at low tide, but
when storms caused a prolonged high tide the locks had to remain closed, and during the
winter this caused the rivers to flood the land behind the dikes. This could repeat itself several
times during the winter and meant that the land could not be used during that part of the
year.
Draining
The reorganization from husbandry to agriculture meant an increased interest in more
effective ways to use the marshland, and that was the background for the draining of
Tøndermarsken (1927-1933). Tøndermarsken was the only place where pump stations and
river dikes were established. According to need, water could be led in and out of the marsh
and we are discussing substantial amounts of water: the four pump stations in
Tøndermarsken have a combined capacity of 30m 3 water per second. The river dikes signify
that Vidåen, as opposed to Brede River and Ribe River, almost never overflows its banks.
Ballummarsken and Ribemarsken are also diked, but exclusively through drainage canals. In
conjunction with the diking, Brede River in Ballummarsken was also straightened with a new
outflow through Ballum Sluse thus the water flows faster out of the river.
Not everyone was unquestionably delighted by the draining. The painter, Emil Nolde, who was
born and bred in the Tønder region, writes in his memoirs: "The draining threatens to destroy
all nature and primordial beauty. The coolly scheming engineers wreaked a barbaric havoc in
the landscape." As a consequence, Nolde moved in 1927 south of the 1920-border to Seebüll.
The marshland is "burning"
The diking and the draining of the marsh are not without problems. In the marshes, the early
wetland plants have been alluviated by the muddy waters in the Wadden Sea and thus
become a varied layer of peat beneath the clayey soil. When this layer is not kept moist, the
peat layer is oxygenated and starts "burning" i.e., sagging. This has happened, among other
places, in Ballummarsken, where some areas have sunk as much as 75 cm. The results are
larger and wetter areas, for example after periods with a great deal of precipitation.
Up through the 1960s, Ribemarsken was watered with saltwater especially to avoid this
problem, and the opposition was fierce when the water supply services were abolished. In a
protocol from Ribemarsken, a farmer is cited thus: "We might as well burn bank notes - our
land is ruined."
Cultivating the marshland
Up until the middle of the 20th century, marshland was only cultivated to a certain extent,
since the flat grassy areas were used for fattening cattle and harvesting hay.
Cultivating the land started in the 1950s and up through the 1970s when oats were the main
crop, since it thrived in the damp soil and could be used as fodder. As well, the greater tractor
power made it possible to plough through the heavy marshland soil.
The reorganization from large grassy areas of land to agriculture created problems with sand
flight, which, in some areas can still be a problem, albeit to a smaller extent, immediately
after ploughing. The solution to the problem was windbreaks, mostly from spruce. On Rømø,
the spruce has to a large extent changed the appearance of the island.
New demands and technical possibilities have thus been a governing force for man's
exploitation and modification of the marshland landscape. Or as the Frisians expressed it:
"God created the world, but the Frisians created the coast."
Things to
do
There are many possibilities for guided marsh-tours. "Sort sol" (murmuration)
is a great safari adventure.
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Fact box 1
NaturKulturVarde, Skallingen and Ho Bugt
The Fisheries and Maritime Museum, Esbjerg and Fanø
The Wadden Sea Center, Vester Vedsted (guided tours and exhibition)
The Danish Nature Agency
Nature center Tønnisgård
Museum Sønderjylland Højer Mølle (and the exhibition: Man and
landscape in the marsh
Sort Safari (Møgeltønder)
There are many other experiences so please check the Tourist Office's
websites
Pogo stick / æ klu’stach
In Tøndermarsken and Ribemarsken the farmers used ”æ klu’stach” about
which Saxo wrote in the year 1200: The fields they fenced with ditches that
they jump over using pogo sticks – æ klu´stach.
This pogo stick is a cane measuring 3. 60 meter with a transverse block that
prevents the stick from sinking deep in the mud.
Fact box 2
The creation of the marsh
The marsh landscape is youngest in the northern part of the marsh dating from
500 BC, to the southern area dating from 1300 BC. It was created by a rising
sea level and the consequent alluviation of the lower areas.
NAVIGATION, SHIPS AND TRADE
THE WADDEN SEA AS A TRANSPORT ROUTE
Forfattere
Mette Guldberg (Fiskeri- og Søfartsmuseet)
Mikkel Kirkedahl (Sydvestjyske Museer)
Oversættelse
Nanna Mercer
Årstider
Alle
Tags
Søfart; kyst; vadested; købstæder; kirker; skibstyper; hvalfangst; havn;
ladeplads
Foto
eksempler
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Hviding Kirke
Kommandørgården på Rømø
Skibbroen i Ribe
Dokhavnen i Esbjerg
SHORT VERSION
1.167 anslag
In the past, seafaring played a major role in the Wadden Sea region. Streams pulled the
seaward access inland and the fords developed into trading centers. In the Middle Ages, the
larger trading hubs became towns and goods were transported between the Wadden Sea
staple-rights and the towns using smaller boats or horse wagons.
The islanders were especially involved in the many seafaring activities and, over time, the
people on Rømø developed special expertise in whaling and sealing.
During the 18th century, the maritime pivot point in the Wadden Sea was Hjerting, Varde
town's staple-right, while Fanø developed a fleet of sailing ships that became one of
Denmark's biggest regional fleets.
In the middle of the 19th century steamships made their entry and thus came steamship
service to England from Hjerting and Højer.
The construction of Esbjerg harbor changed the infrastructure in the Wadden Sea region, and
the smaller harbors and staple-rights lost their traffic. In Esbjerg, bigger vessels could call
into port and railway connections provided access to the world.
MEDIUM VERSION
1.167 anslag
In the distant past, seafaring played a major role in the Wadden Sea region. Streams pulled
the seaward access inland and the fords developed into pivotal trading centers. The rivers
made it easier to transport heavier and larger goods, since on land goods had to be hauled on
foot or with ox or horse wagons.
During the Middle Ages, the larger trading hubs got monopolies on trade, crafts and seafaring
and thus became the market towns, Ribe, Tønder and Varde. Situated by rivers, where larger
vessels could not put into port, the market towns had access to the sea and could therefore
transport goods on smaller boats or on horse wagons between the Wadden Sea and the
market towns.
The islanders were especially involved in the many seafaring activities, while also occupied
with agriculture and fishing. The people on Rømø played a big role in Ribe town's maritime
activities, but over time they developed special expertise in whaling and sealing.
During the 18th century, the maritime axis point in the Wadden Sea was Hjerting, Varde
town's staple-right. From there, traffic moved up and down the Norwegian, German and Dutch
coast with import of goods to large parts of Jutland. Fanø island developed a fleet of sailing
ships that became one of Denmark's biggest regional fleets, and sailed to the Mediterranean
Sea and later, to the whole world.
In the middle of the 19th century, steamships made their entry and from 1848 -1850,
Hjerting was, aside from Copenhagen, the only Danish port with steamship service to
England. In 1855, Højer too established steamship service to England.
When, in 1868, the Danish Parliament decided that a harbor should be constructed in Esbjerg,
the decision changed the infrastructure in the Wadden Sea region. Not only did Esbjerg now
have a harbor where bigger vessels could call into port, but also railway connections to the
rest of the country and access to the world. Esbjerg harbor reigned supreme while the smaller
harbors and staple-rights lost all their traffic.
Esbjerg was constructed as a point of transport, but the fishermen on the West coast soon
discovered that the city provided an effective connection to the attractive markets. Esbjerg
became Denmark's biggest fishery town, a position it maintained until the end of the 20th
century. Today, there are only a few cutters left. Esbjerg is still one of Denmark's biggest
harbors, not least because of the off-shore industry. The only other fishery harbor in the area
is found on Rømø where, in Havneby, there is shrimp fishing and a ferry connection to the
German island of Sylt.
LONG VERSION
1.167 anslag
The Danish Wadden Sea is situated by the southwest Jutlandic coast just south of
the dangerous Horns Rev, which in the past was a feared place to navigate. The
Wadden Sea offered natural harbors in the lee of the islands with deep channels
between the islands securing access to the mainland, where during the Middle Ages
Ribe, Denmark's oldest town, was established.
Trading hubs and seafaring in the Wadden Sea
Seafaring, and with it the exchange of goods and culture, has played a huge role in the
Wadden Sea region. Streams and rivers pulled the seaward access inland and where a ford
was available it often developed into a pivotal center of trade. Archaeological artifacts bear
witness to early trade and international contacts. Dankirke near Vester Vedsted is known to
have traded with the Anglo Saxons and the Frisians from around 200 BC to ca. 750 AD. Many
of the later area towns were originally established as trading posts. The oldest is from 710
when the Vikings made the international trading post in Ribe permanent.
Church building
Seafaring made it easier to transport large and heavy materials from far away. Inland
transport often had to be hauled either by foot or by heavy, lumbering wagons pulled by
animals, while ships could transport a bigger load further and faster, which influenced church
building in the region. A great many of the 12th and 13th century churches in the Wadden
Sea region are built in the Romanesque style from tufa stone shipped from the area around
the Rhine. In Hviding church there is a 14th century fresco of a cog, which was a typical
medieval trading vessel. In the regional cemeteries many tombstones bear witness to trade
and seafaring activities through the centuries.
Market towns
During the Middle Ages, the King conferred on several of the larger trading hubs monopolies
on trade, crafts and seafaring and thus, they became market towns. The most important of
these were Ribe that in 948 became a bishopric and also a residence for the country's
traveling Kings. In the 12th century, the impressive Cathedral was built. During the Middle
Ages, especially export of oxen provided Ribe with revenue, and in the 16th century, Ribe was
one of Denmark's biggest towns. The other market towns in the region were Tønder (1243)
and Varde (1442). All the market towns were situated by rivers with access to the Wadden
Sea. The larger vessels could not put into port close to the market towns, so the goods had to
be reloaded at staple-rights. Smaller vessels, the so-called barges or horse wagons took care
of the transport between staple- right and town. Around 20 smaller or larger staple-rights or
out-ports were situated along the coast. The largest of these were Højer and Ballum, that
belonged to Tønder; Rømø, Hviding Nakke and Sønderho that serviced Ribe, plus Janderup
and Hjerting that were the staple-rights for Varde.
Seafarers and whalers
The islanders were especially involved in the many seafaring activities while also occupied
with agriculture and fishing. Up until 1644, when the Swedes burned the main part of the
Rømø fleet, the people on Rømø played a big role in Ribe town's maritime activities. Instead,
the islanders took part in the maritime activities from German and Dutch harbors and the
Rømø islanders developed a special expertise in whaling and sealing. Rømø is well-known for
its many captains of whale and sealing ships. When the number of captains topped in 1770,
there were 30 and they comprised ca. 10 percent of the islands' active seamen.
Sailing ships
In the 18th century, the maritime central point in the Wadden Sea moved towards the north.
Ribe had since the 17th century experienced a downturn in trade and shipping. Instead,
Varde's staple-right Hjerting took the lead as the busiest harbor in the Wadden Sea. From
there, traffic moved up and down the Norwegian, German and Dutch coasts importing goods
to large parts of Jutland. Fanø island developed a fleet of sailing ships that became one of
Denmark's biggest regional fleets, and sailed to the Mediterranean Sea and later, to the whole
world. The many fine captains' homes in Sønderho and Nordby derive from this era.
Steamships and new harbors
In the middle of the 19th century, steamships made their entry and from 1848 -1850,
Hjerting was, aside from Copenhagen, the only Danish port with steamship service to
England. In 1855, Højer, too, established steamship service to England. Meanwhile, the
Danish Parliament decided in 1868 that a new harbor should be constructed in Esbjerg as
compensation for the harbors Denmark had lost in the defeat of 1864. The commissioning of
Esbjerg harbor in 1873 completely changed the infrastructure in the Wadden Sea region. Not
only did Esbjerg now have a harbor where bigger vessels could call into port, but it also had
railway connections to the rest of the country and the rest of the world. The harbor and the
railroad represented substantial competition to the maritime activities in the remaining part of
the Wadden Sea, and Esbjerg harbor reigned supreme, while the smaller harbors and staplerights lost all their traffic.
Fishing
Esbjerg was constructed as a point of transport, especially with an eye to exporting
agricultural products to England. The fishermen on the West coast soon discovered that the
city's harbor and railway presented an effective connection to the attractive markets. Many
fishermen moved to Esbjerg, which developed into Denmark's biggest fishery town, a position
it maintained until the end of the 20th century. Today, there are only a few cutters left, but
Esbjerg is still one of Denmark's biggest harbors, not least because of the off-shore industry
both as regards oil and wind power. The only other fishery harbor in the area is found on
Rømø where the harbor in Havneby was established in 1964. From Havneby, there is shrimp
fishing and a ferry connection to the German island of Sylt.
Things to
do
Suggestions for things to see in the Wadden Sea National Park
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Man-made harbors: Nordby, Havneby
Captains' towns: Nordby, Sønderho
Harbours/staple-rights without port facilities: Sønderho, Ho, Kjelst,
Janderup, Varde Pramsted, Hjerting, Roborghus, Sønderho Havn,
Kværnsten, Ballum and Højer
The harbor by Højer Sluse
Sønderside – once a large fishing village, now gone
Esperance bay
Nordby Captains' town with port facilities
Sønderho Captains' town with a sand-covered harbor
Whaling: whalebone fence, Captains' farm, tombstones on Rømø
Rescue stations on Fanø and Rømø
Fanø ship and folk costume collection
Fanø Museum
Mandøhuset
Things to see near the Wadden Sea National Park
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Fact box 1
Ribe – Denmark's oldest town, market place in the 8th century, market
town in the 13th century – the evert Johanne Dan
Tønder – market town 1243. Cut off from the sea by diking. Wharf filled in
Varde – market town 1442
Esbjerg – harbor built in the beginning of the 1870s, town developed
concurrently. Dock from the oldest harbor, large port of transport, harbor
for the off-shore industries
The deep channels in the Wadden Sea
People by the river, Højer
The Fisheries and Maritime Museum with, among others, the exhibition
Wadden Sea and World Ocean, plus the evert Ane Cathrine
Museet Ribes Vikinger
Loading and unloading from the bottom of the sea
The local flat-bottomed barges could get close to land during the high tide
simply by anchoring on the sea bed at low tide where they were could be
serviced with horse-drawn wagons that could drive all the way out to the ship
across the dry ocean floor.
Fact box 2
The evert
The evert is a typical Wadden Sea vessel, a flat-bottomed barge with leeboard
to compensate for the missing keel. To avoid drifting, the leeboard could be
deployed on the side that turned away from the wind. There are only a few of
these vessels in Denmark.
Fact box 3
Dutch ships
The flat-bottomed barges with leeboard were introduced in the Danish Wadden
Sea region via Holland.
Many of the ships in the Wadden Sea had names that originated in Holland, thus:
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Fact box 4
Jagt - jacht
Kuf - Kof
Skude - Schuit
Smakke - smak
Snække - snik
Tjalk - tjalk
Krejert - kraaier
Pinke - pink
The disaster in 1777
The year 1777 was an epoch-making year for the whalers on Rømø. In August
and September, 14 whaling ships foundered on the pack ice opposite south
eastern Greenland. We know of 51 seamen, 5 of these captains from Rømø,
onboard the 14 vessels, and of the 51 men 30 survived. Among the survivors
were men from Fanø and Mandø. After this disaster, the whaling islanders
increased their participation in the maritime trade.
Fact box 5
National industrial heritage sites
In 2007, the Ministry of Culture selected the dock harbor in Esbjerg and also
the lighthouse system as 2 of the 25 most important national industrial
heritage sites.
Fact box 6
Rescue Service
The Danish Rescue Service was established in 1852 and meant to set up rescue
stations along the coast. The rescue stations were operated by volunteers and
can be recognized by their characteristic green doors with two Danish flags. On
Rømø, the rescue stations were bigger than those further north and they were
also equipped with observation towers.
Fact box 7
Export and import
In the 18th century, Hjerting was the hub for agricultural products as well as
fish plus roughly processed goods such a horse blankets and blackpots. When
the ships returned from Norway, they bought wood and iron, and from Holland,
they bought salt and lime plus a long list of colonial goods and luxury items.
BLACK SUN
– A UNIQUE NATURE PHENOMENON IN THE WADDEN SEA AREA
Forfattere
Torben Kjærgaard Andersen (Vadehavscentret)
Inger Sønnichsen (Naturcentret Tønnisgård)
Oversættelse
Nanna Mercer
Årstider
Forår, efterår
Tags
Sort sol; stære; Ribe; Tønder; Marsken; Vadehavet
Foto
eksempler
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Sandorm
Rødspætte
Fugle der fouragerer på vaden
SHORT VERSION
1.087 anslag
Black sun occurs when large flocks of starlings dance on the evening sky and almost darken
the setting sun. They congregate in a flock so they are many to detect dangers and to
confuse charging birds-of-prey. When night has arrived, they settle down in the wet reed
forests where they rest overnight without fear of predators.
In the spring, the starlings visit the marshland to gather strength for having young. In the
autumn, they gather in the Wadden Sea area to fatten up for the winter. Most starlings
overwinter in Holland, France or great Britain.
Starlings' visit the Wadden Sea area because the many pastures with grazing cattle are great
habitats for insect larvae. In the autumn, they also consume large amounts of windfall berries
that have a high concentration of alcohol. However, starlings have a high alcohol metabolism
so there is no risk to either their health or the air traffic.
The male starling is known as a talented song bird, and his repertoire is inspired by the
surroundings. For example, starlings have been heard to imitate mobile phones and referee
whistles.
MEDIUM VERSION
2.620 anslag
Black sun, also known as murmuration, occurs during the spring and the autumn when,
during the sunset, flocks of starlings congregate in specific localities to settle down in the reed
forest. Starlings numbering hundredth of thousands can almost darken the setting sun when
they dance in the sky, hence the name: black sun.
The dance is a defense against attacking birds-of-prey. By congregating in flocks, there are
many eyes to detect dangers and the flock formation causes confusion for charging birds-ofprey. The starlings' ability to move as a single entity without colliding in the skies is due to
their lightning quick reactivity which is ca. 20 times faster than mans.
The starlings finally settle down in the wet reed forests, where they are dry and relatively safe
throughout the night since predators do not move out into the marshland and birds-of-prey
are inactive during the night.
Black sun is generally connected with the autumn, but it also occurs from the middle of March
to the middle of April, when the starlings visit the marshland to gather strength for having
young. The starlings breed throughout Denmark and in the countries around the Baltic Sea
and in Norway. The breeding season lasts until August, when the starlings again return to the
Wadden Sea area to fatten up for the winter. The black sun season in the autumn typically
stretches from the end of August until the end of October, when most of the starlings migrate
to Holland, France and Great Britain, where they overwinter.
The starlings' choice of locality for fattening up is connected with the many cattle pastures,
where the starling's preferred food, larvae from garden chafers and crane flies, thrive in
abundance. In the late summer and autumn, the young starlings consume rather large
amounts of fermented windfall berries. When the berries ferment, the sugar is converted into,
among others, alcohol that the starlings therefore consume in large quantities. However,
starlings have a high alcohol metabolism and the alcohol intake is therefore not a threat to
either their health or the air traffic.
The starling is also known as a talented song bird. It is predominantly the male that sings,
and in the spring he tries to attract a female to his nest. The greater his song-repertoire, the
better his chance for success. The male starling is delightfully creative when the repertoire
needs enlarging, and he finds inspiration in his surroundings. Male starlings have been
observed to imitate the ring tones of a mobile phone, the meowing of a cat, a squeaky door
and even the sound from a referee whistle during a soccer match.
LONG VERSION
6.153 anslag
Black sun occurs when, at the sunset, large flocks of starlings congregate on specific
localities to settle down in the reed forests. A large flock of starlings can almost
darken the setting sun as they dance in the evening sky - hence the name, black
sun.
It is not unusual for starlings to congregate in large flocks of several hundred thousand
individuals and when they start to dance in the evening sky, their flight formation can make
you think of a ballet performance. However, the situation is quite different for the starlings.
Their dance is a defense mechanism against attacking birds-of prey in the same manner as
that seen in schools of fish. By assembling in huge flocks, the birds, as one entity, there are
many eyes to detect potential danger, while at the same time their flock formation is
confusing for an attacking predator. It is typically the fast and maneuverable sparrow hawk
that attacks the starlings, but the merlin, the blue hawk, the marsh harrier and the goshawk
are also on the prowl. In a few cases, the world's fastest animal, the peregrine falcon, may
also interfere in the fight to get starling on the evening menu. So -the starlings do not gather
in flocks to delight their audience with a dance performance on the evening sky, but to avoid
being eaten, still, why not enjoy the beautiful sight.
Why stay overnight in the reed forests?
Reed forests can be found in the wetlands throughout the marsh, where neither the fox nor
any other predator will venture into the deep mud and water to reach their goal, the starlings.
Birds-of-prey are not active during the night since they use their sight when they hunt for
prey. The starlings are therefore dry and relatively safe in the reed forests during the night, or
until the sun rises and the starlings wake up.
Ballet in the evening sky – no collisions
By itself, the starlings' dance can evoke great enthusiasm in their audience, often followed by
a feeling of wonder at the starlings' ability to move in the sky at such lightening speed as one
entity, but without colliding. Do the starlings have some mutually agreed upon traffic rules
that allow then to avoid collision in the middle of this chaos of birds? The answer is no - the
starlings are actually able to steer clear of each other strictly by reason of their lightening fast
reactivity. A starling is ca. 20 times faster than man.
Black sun - both spring and autumn
Although most people associate black sun with the autumn, this phenomenon, also known as
murmuration, occurs in the spring as well. For about 3 to 4 weeks from the middle of March to
the middle of April, the starlings visit the marshland, and perform their dance in the evening
sky. They are gathering strength for their most important task, that of having young. The
starlings breed not only in Denmark, but also migrate to the countries around the Baltic Sea
as well as to Norway. The breeding season lasts until August, where the starlings return to the
Wadden Sea area to gather strength for the winter. The black sun season typically stretches
over more than 2 month, from the end of August until the end of October, after which most of
the starlings migrate to Holland, France and Great Britain, where the overwinter.
Before it was known that the starlings migrated south for the winter, it was thought that they
actually overwintered on the bottom of lakes and bogs. For why else could they suddenly
show up at exactly the same locality each spring? Since then we have become more
knowledgeable about the habits of starlings and other birds. A great deal of the knowledge
concerning birds' migrating pattern is thanks to the Danish school master Hans Chr. C.
Mortensen. He was the first person to have success with ringing birds, for in this way to follow
their migrating patterns. The birds were ringed with a numbered marker and if birds ringed in
Denmark were later observed in another locality, it was possible by repeated observations to
get an idea of the migration pattern of specific bird populations.
The Wadden Sea area - the starlings' preferred restaurant
The starlings' choice of the Wadden Sea area as the locality for fattening up is predicated on
the large areas with pastures for grazing cattle that are still found in these parts. The pastures
represent the ideal habitats for the starlings' preferred food: larvae from garden chafers and
crane flies. Insect larvae, however, are not the only source of food, for especially in the late
summer and the early autumn, the young starlings profit by the large number of berries found
in gardens and hedges this time of year. Consumption of this food source is connected with
certain "security" risks, for many of the berries have lain on the ground for some time and
have therefore started to ferment. During fermentation, the sugars in the berries are broken
down and become energy, CO2 and alcohol. The berry-eating starlings are thus consuming
rather large quantities of alcohol - enough to more or less anaesthetize most other animals
the same size. The starling has an alcohol metabolism that is 15 times greater than mans
and so, their alcohol consumption does not present a security risk for either their health or the
air traffic.
The best singer in the garden
Aside from its abilities as an aerial acrobat, the starling is also known as a talented song bird.
It is predominantly the male that sings and, in the spring, his primary mission is to attract a
female to his nest. The greater his song-repertoire, the better his chance of success. The
male starling is delightfully creative when the repertoire needs enlarging and finds inspiration
in his immediate surroundings. Male starlings have been observed to imitate the ring tones of
a mobile phone, the meowing of a cat and a squeaky door. At a soccer stadium, a starling
even imitated the sound from the referee's whistle. Reputedly it caused a bit of confusion at
several local soccer matches when the starling's referee-whistle song rose pari passu with the
increase in the real referee's whistle activity - likely because the referee whistle in the eyes of
the starling was seen as the song from a competing male.
Things to
do
Black sun can be experienced in the wetland areas containing reed forests
around Ribe and Tøndermarsken. The Wadden Sea Centre arranges tours in the
Ribe area, and in Tøndermarsken, Sort Safari is the organizer.
Please see: www.vadehavscentret.dk or www.sortsafari.dk
Fact box 1
The young is safeguarded using chemical warfare
In the starlings' nests large numbers of mites and other parasites can be found.
In a mite infested nest, the young can lose up to 10 percent of their blood per
day, which gives a much poorer chance of survival. To keep the mites down,
the male lines the nest with poisonous plants, such as wormwood and cowslip
that contain natural remedies against plant eaters. A male starling courting a
female will be judged on his ability as a pharmacist, and if the nest's content of
poisonous plants is not to her taste, his will be ignored.
Fact box 2
Competition for the best sleeping perches
At nightfall, when the starlings settle down in the reed forests, there is
competition for the best sleeping perches, which are those around the middle of
the reeds. Starlings perching too high are more exposed to the wind and the
weather, while those perching too low are in danger of being hit by droppings
from those higher up. So, there is often a hustle and bustle before sleeping
perches have been allocated and the night is quiet in the reed forest.
Fact box 3
Black sun in Rome Millions of starlings overwinter in Rome, where they cause
problems for the city's inhabitants. Cars, bicycles, not to mention the good
citizens in Rome, are exposed to real air bombing of droppings from the many
starlings. Most of the locals are prepared and have an umbrella or a newspaper
to hand, but the problem has become so great that some of the municipalities
have hired "starling hawkers" to scare the birds away from the more affected
areas. By playing the starling's warning screams using powerful amplifiers the
problem (the starlings) is moved to another and hopefully less affected locality.
STORM SURGES ON THE WADDEN SEA
COAST
WHEN THE WATER RUSHES FORWARD
Forfattere
Klaus Melbye (Vadehavscentret)
Anne-Marie Overgaard (Museum Sønderjylland)
Oversættelse
Jacob Jonia, Irina Sehling
Årstider
Alle
Tags
Stormflod; tidevand; stormflodssøjle; dige; havdige; 1362; 1634,
Foto
eksempler



Grafen over stormfloder i Esbjerg Havn siden 1872
Billede fra 3. Dec. 1999 ved Mandø ebbevej
Billede af digeskader
SHORT VERSION
1.137 anslag
A storm surge is created when the sea level is much higher than normal and, at its worst,
when a heavy storm hits the coast at the high tide.
Storm surges can cause devastating damage. The ocean dikes in Tøndermarsken were built in
the Middle Ages although the dikes to the north are only between 100 and 150 years old.
Today, the whole Wadden Sea coast is protected by dikes except where moraines extend all
the way to the coast and around Ho Bugt.
Three storm surges have tested the dikes in modern times. During the storms in 1976, the
people living in Ribemarsken and Tøndermarsken were evacuated. Since then, Det
Fremskudte Dige by Højer was built and the Ribe Dike was raised. In 1981, Mandø was
partially flooded when the water broke through the dike in seven places. Luckily, the
hurricane in 1999 hit at the low tide when the water came up to 30 cm from the top of the
Ribe Dike.
The number of heavy storm surges has increased during the last four decades and they have
also become stronger. Since the number of storms is expected to increase and the sea level in
the oceans to rise, the dikes in the Wadden Sea are under pressure.
MEDIUM VERSION
2.594 anslag
The people living on the Wadden Sea coast have always lived with the threat of storm surges
that flooded their fields, caused devastating damage to their properties and at worst, loss of
life.
A storm surge occurs when the sea level on the ocean rises faster than normal. It is caused
by a combination of water piling up, tidal flow and low atmospheric pressure. The water piles
up when the ocean is pushed toward land by a strong onshore wind while, by itself, a heavy
dip in the atmospheric pressure can increase the sea level with up to 0.40 meter. The worst
imaginable situation is therefore when a heavy storm hits the coast at the high tide.
The two storm surges in 1362 and 1634 stand out in the history of the Wadden Sea. Both
caused devastating damage and a huge loss of life. As a result, the real sea walls in
Tøndermarsken were already begun in the Middle Ages. However, the dikes along the
narrower marshland to the north are only between 100 and 150 years old.
Ocean-dikes are constructed with a sloping incline facing the ocean and this slowly reduces
the energy of the waves in a storm surge. At the same time, the wider base at the dike
provides more resistance when the water pushes up against it thus exposing the foot of the
dike-base to great pressure.
Today, except where the moraines extend into the Wadden Sea and around Ho Bugt, there
are dikes on most of the almost 500km long stretch from Denmark in the north to Holland in
the south.
In modern times, three storm surges have raised questions about the strength of the dikes.
During the storms in 1976, almost 20,000 people living in Ribemarsken and Tøndermarsken
were evacuated. As something new, RadioSyd reported on the situation and since then the
radio has been a part of Storm Surge Preparedness. These storms were the reason why Det
Fremskudte Dige by Højer was built, just as the Ribe Dike was elevated. During the storm in
1981, Mandø was partially flooded when water broke through the dike in seven places.
Luckily, while still causing an increase in the sea level of ca. 5 m, the hurricane in 1999 hit at
the low tide and caused the water to rise to just 30 cm from the top of the Ribe Dike.
The number of storm surges with sea levels of between 2 - 3 m has more than tripled in the
last four decades, while at the same time the Wadden Sea region has experienced the
strongest storm surges since 1634. Since the number of storms is expected to increase and
the sea level in the oceans to rise, the dikes in the Wadden Sea are under pressure and the
towns alongside the Wadden Sea confronted with huge challenges.
LONG VERSION
6.143 anslag
The inhabitants on the Wadden Sea coast have always lived with the threat of storm
surges that flooded their fields, caused devastating damage to their properties and,
at the worst, loss of life. Still, storm surges were not only the ultimate fight in the
past between nature and culture, but also future dramatic landscape challenges for
the Wadden Sea region.
A storm surge occurs when a storm causes the sea level on the ocean to rise faster than
normal, thus causing devastating damage through flooding. The rise in the sea level is caused
by a combination of water piling up, tidal flow and low atmospheric pressure. The water piles
up when the ocean is pushed towards land by a strong onshore wind that causes the water to
rise along the coast. The worst imaginable situation is therefore when a heavy storm hits the
coast at the high tide after a long period with heavy onshore winds.
Under normal circumstances, the atmospheric pressure near the earth's surface is 1013 hPa
on average, but during a storm it drops to 970-980 hPa. Since a drop of 1hPa in the
atmospheric pressure will cause the sea level to rise by 1cm, such a drop in atmospheric
pressure will increase the sea level with up to 0.4 cm.
How or how long storm surges hit is therefore very diverse For example, the storm surge in
1981 developed over 4 or 5 high tides, while the tornado on Dec. 3rd in 1999 only lasted
between 2 and 3 hours while also hitting at the low tide. In 1999, the increased sea level was
caused by the effects of the water piling up and the drop in atmospheric pressure, and the
piling up contributed with a 5.5 m rise in the sea level.
The Great Drownings
Two storm surges stand out in the history of the Wadden Sea. The Great Drownings in 1362
and 1634 caused huge changes in the Wadden Sea landscape, and they both caused
devastating damage and a huge loss of life.
The day in 1634, the second Great Drowning, is well documented and has left an indelible
imprint not only on the landscape, but also in the consciousness of the people living on the
coasts. The fishing village Sønderside, situated by the current Havnegrøft on Skallingen, had
to be given up after the storm surge, and in Ribe Cathedral the sea level was marked on the
stone pillar by the pulpit. Many of the storm surge pillars on the Wadden Sea coast also note
the water level in 1636.
From only low summer dikes made to protect the crops, man started building real ocean
dikes, whose primary function was to protect the people living along the Wadden Sea. The
oldest dikes are found in Tøndermarsken, in Germany and in Holland where settling in the
marshland on man-made terps was very widespread. However, the dikes along the narrower
marshland to the north are only between 100 and 150 years old. Here, people settled on the
edge of the Geest.
The ocean dikes
The ocean-dikes with their sloping incline facing the ocean are more resistant to wave attacks
since the waves slowly burn up their energy going up the sloping incline, rather than hitting
the dike full on. At the same time, with an increased sea level, a dike is also exposed to
amplified bottom pressure since this is where the water pressure is greatest because of the
column of water overhead. Therefore, it makes sense that a dike is the widest and the
strongest on the bottom for, among others, to delay the water percolating at the base of the
dike causing solifluction and collapse.
Today, there are dikes on most of the almost 500km long stretch from Ho Bugt and Esbjerg in
the north to Den Helder in Holland to the south. Only a few places are without dikes: Ho Bugt
and Varde Å, and where the moraines extend into the Wadden Sea near Hjerpsted and
Emmerlev Klev.
The "new" storm surges
The storm surges in 1976, 1981 and 1999 have each raised questions about the strength of
the dikes.
The storms on January 3 and 21, 1976 caused great damage to the dikes with a ca. 4.8 meter
increase in the sea levels. On January 3rd, around 16:00, 20,000 people from the marshland
regions near Ribe and Tønder were evacuated to more elevated ground. As something new,
RadioSyd reported on the situation and since then the radio has been a part of Storm Surge
Preparedness. These storms were the reason why Det Fremskudte Dige by Højer was built,
just as the Ribe Dike was made higher.
The storm in 1981 developed over 5 high tides from November 23th - 25th with a 5.11m
increase in the sea level by Ribe Kammersluse. With winds up to 30 m/s, the storm caused
great damage along the coast, but it was worst on Mandø where the dike was damaged in
more than 100 places. The island was partially flooded when the water broke through the dike
in seven places and Store Rende was flooded with 4.50 meters of water. All told, 200 sheep
and 18 head of cattle downed. At the smallholdings alongside the town dike, the water came
up to the middle of the windows. Most of the houses in Mandø town are situated in the dunes
and so were not flooded.
On December 3rd, 1999, a tornado hit the Wadden Sea coast for the first time, but as luck
would have it, at the low tide. The tornado made landfall at around 19:00 causing an increase
in the sea level of ca. 5 meters with record-high gusts of wind of up to 53m/s measured on
Rømø and in Vester Vedsted. The water rose to just 30 cm from the top of the Ribe Dike.
Future storm surges
The Intergovernmental Panel on Climate Change (IPCC) predicts a warmer climate, which will
increase the number of future storms on our latitudes. The dikes are therefore under pressure
and the towns alongside the Wadden Sea confronted with huge challenges.
The number of storm surges with sea levels of between 2 - 3 meters have, according to
statements going back to 1872 from Esbjerg Harbor office, more than tripled in the last four
decades and at the same time, from 1975 - 1999 we have experienced the strongest storm
surges since the 1634 storm surge with sea levels of up to 5 meters.
As well, the IPCC expects the sea level to rise 9 - 88 cm over the next 100 years, and with a
rise of 11cm during the last 100 years, the question is whether our dikes alongside the
Wadden Sea coast are secure enough.
Things to
do
Experience the Storm Surge Show at the Wadden Sea Centre
Visit the storm surge pillar by:
 Janderup Ladeplads
 Ribe Skibbro

Mandø beach

Mandø Ebbevej
 Sønderho
 Nordby,
 Marskmandshuset in Ballum Enge
 Vidå Slusen
 Højer Gamle Sluse
Fact box 1
Read Theodor Storm's 1898 work The Rider on the White Horse and selected
stories translated from the German by James Wright, about the farm boy
Hauke who becomes dike master and then builds a new dike. About storm
surges, ghosts, marshland peasants and passions.
Fact box 2
1362
1634
1911
1923
1953
The Great Drowning
The Second Great Drowning
The last storm surge that reached Ribe
The last time anyone drowned during a storm surge in Denmark
1800 people perish in Holland
1962 350 people perish in Hamburg
1968 Iced up river with 4.35m DNN packed ice by Ribe Kammersluse
1976 The dikes are severely damaged. Radio becomes part of the Storm Surge
Preparedness
1981 The Mandø dikes destroyed. 200 sheep and 18 head of cattle drown
1999 The worst tornado ever recorded in Denmark
Fact box 3
Højer
Date
03.01.1976
24.11.1981
03.12.1999
17.02.1962
24.11.1928
DVR90
481 cm
460 cm
442 cm
425 cm
411 cm
Esbjerg
Date
24.11.1981
26.01.1990
24.11.1928
03.12.1999
15.01.1968
DVR90
429 cm
402 cm
389 cm
383 cm
370 cm
Ribe
Date
03.12.1999
24.11.1981
03.01.1976
26.01.1990
15.01.1968
DVR90
500 cm
489 cm
463 cm
453 cm
423 cm
Fact box 4
DVR90 (Danish Vertical Reference 1990) is a new height reference system that
replaces the old DNN. In the Wadden Sea region, the measured sea level in
DVR90 is up to 12cm less than when referring to DNN.
Fact box 5
The storm surge in 1825 did terrible damage to the then Danish island Føhr and
the terps on Hallig Hooge. This natural disaster resonated in the minds of the
Danish people and caught the attention of King Frederik IV. However, during
his trip to the Halligen, the King was caught in a storm and had to stay
overnight. Today, the living room ”Königspesel” is one of the great local
attractions.
THE SEALS IN THE WADDEN SEA
LIFE AT THE TOP OF THE FOOD CHAIN
Forfattere
Lasse Fast Jensen (Fiskeri- og Søfartsmuseet)
Anne Würtz Pedersen (Vadehavscentret)
Oversættelse
Nanna Mercer
Årstider
Sommer, Efterår, Vinter
Tags
sandbanke; lavvande; højvande; jagt; fiskere; sæl
Foto
eksempler



Sælbanke
Spættet sæl
Grå sæl
SHORT VERSION
1.167 anslag
Most of the seals found in the Wadden Sea are harbor seals, but Denmark's largest mammal the grey seal - can also be found here.
Over time, the seal has evolved so it can live in and below the sea. The torpedo-formed body
and the wide flippers make the seal a good swimmer and its eyes are designed for seeing
under water.
In the suckling period it can happen that a pup gets away from its mother and crawls up on
the beach where it squeals. If you run into a squealing pup or a sick seal, it is best to give
them peace and quiet and to notify the Danish Nature Agency or the Fisheries and Maritime
Museum.
Today, there are ca. 35,500 harbor seals in the Wadden Sea. Around the year 1900, there
were ca. 37-38,000 but hunting and then pollution has meant that the population plummeted
until the seal became a protected species. Since then the population has grown, only
interrupted by two epidemics of the so-called seal plague (distemper) thought to originate
from stray Greenland seals.
In the past, the seals were hunted for their blubber, meat and pelt, but they have also been
very unpopular among fishermen who, mistakenly, thought that the seals ate their fish.
MEDIUM VERSION
2.680 anslag
Most of the seals found in the Wadden Sea are harbor seals, but with just a little luck you may
also see the grey seal. The harbor seal is usually between 1.3 - 1.6 meters long and weighs
up to 130 kg, while the grey seal with its 300 kg is Denmark's largest mammal.
Over time, the seal has evolved from a life on land to a life spent mostly in or under water.
The torpedo-formed body together with its wide flippers make the seal a good swimmer while
the thick layer of blubber helps to keep it warm. The eyes are designed for seeing under
water, where the seal can spend minutes at a time and with their whiskers register any fish
swimming by.
The seal must also pull up for periods at a time. The harbor seal especially uses the Wadden
Sea sandbars as a place to rest and also as a breeding ground in the summer. The grey seal,
on the other hand, gives birth to her pup during the winter, but not in the Danish part of the
Wadden Sea.
In the suckling period it sometimes happens that a pup gets away from its mother, and
without milk, the pup is lost. The pup crawls up on the beach where it squeals for its mother.
Squealers have very little chance of surviving, therefore, in Denmark they are put down.
In the late summer and autumn, you may see sick seals that have crawled up on the beach
for better to stay warm. If you run into a squealing pup or a sick seal, it is best to leave them
in peace and quiet and to notify the Danish Nature Agency or the Fisheries and Maritime
Museum.
The Danish part of the Wadden Sea contains ca. 4,500 harbor seals, while the total is 35,500
in the trilateral Wadden Sea. It is estimated that around the year 1900, there were 37 38,000 seals in the whole Wadden Sea, but hunting and pollution has caused a deep decline in
the seal population that became a protected species in 1976-77. Since then, the seal
population has grown, only interrupted by two outbreaks of the seal plague, which is a virus
that impairs the seal's immune system thus causing bacterial infections. The virus is thought
to originate from Greenland seals displaced by a lack of food. Since Greenland seals can be
carriers without becoming ill, they may have infected the Danish harbor seals.
The seals have been hunted for their blubber, their meat and their pelt, but they have also
been very unpopular among fishermen, who thought the seals ate their catch. Seal hunting
took place with clubs and firearms, but also with something called a seal harrow that was
hidden in the sand. The barbs attached to the harrow prevented the seals from fleeing back
into the water. At one time, the state even awarded the killing of seals and made rifles and
ammunition available.
LONG VERSION
5.954 anslag
Seals resting on bare sandbars are an eye-catching sight in the Wadden Sea, and the
area provides many opportunities for experiencing these fabulous animals close up
in their natural environment.
The seals in the Wadden Sea
The harbor seal is by far the most common seal in the Wadden Sea, but it is also possible to
meet its larger cousin, the grey seal. The harbor seal likes to rest on the Wadden Sea
sandbars, where it also gives birth to a pup during the summer. The pup suckles its mother's
rich milk for the first 3 or 4 weeks of its life, at which point it must learn how to catch fish and
crustaceans on its own. Although the grey seal is now more common, it still does not breed in
the Danish part of the Wadden Sea. In the German and Dutch parts of the Wadden Sea, there
are several breeding colonies for grey seals. As opposed to the harbor seal, the grey seal
gives birth to its pup during the winter.
The seal - Denmark's largest carnivore
The seal is a carnivore and therefore related to wolves and bears, among others. It is thought
that the seals closest contemporary relative is to be found in the group of mustelids, which
are otter-like carnivores. The harbor seal is between 1.3-1.6 m long and can weigh 130 kg.
The grey seal is much larger and with its 300kg, not only Denmark's largest carnivore, but
also our largest mammal.
Life in the water
Through millions of years, the seal has evolved from a land habitat to almost exclusively living
in or below the water. The seal is well adapted to life in the water. Its torpedo-formed body
and the wide flippers make the seal a great swimmer, and the heavy layer of blubber helps
the seal stay warm. The seal's large eyes are very photosensitive and designed for seeing
under water. With its whiskers it can register the tiniest movement from fish swimming by.
Because the seal's body is designed to store and save oxygen, it can stay under water for
several minutes at a time.
Although the seal is carefully designed for life in the water, there are periods when the seal
must pull up. Although the seal can easily sleep while in the water, it rests better on land.
Thus, seals can often be seen lolling about on the sandbars in the Wadden Sea. When the
seals are ready to give birth to their pups, they are totally dependent on being able to pull up
on land. The harbor seal gives birth during the summer and at the low tide. The pup is born
without the long haired lanugo coat so characteristic for other seal species. Instead, it has a
coat reminiscent of the adult seal, so when the high tide is ready to roll in, the pup can follow
its mother into the water.
The seal plague
Twice, in 1988 and 2002, the seal population was hit by seal plague, which killed 50-60
percent of the population. Seal plague is due to a virus that impairs the seal's immune system
by giving bacterial infections free reign. During the two epidemics most of the seals died from
bacterial pneumonia. Both outbreaks started on the Danish island, Anholt, and from there
spread to the whole of Northern Europe. Where the virus originated, is not totally clear, but
the Greenland seal may have had a hand in it somehow. The Greenland seal normally lives in
the arctic, but in 1987, a shortage of food displaced thousands of seals towards the south and
some of them made it all the way to Denmark. It is known that Greenland seals can be
carriers of the virus without being ill and they can therefore have carried the virus with them
and then infected the harbor seals.
The evolution of the seal population
Through time, the harbor seal population in the Wadden Sea has gone up and down. It is
estimated that in the year 1900, there were 37 - 38,000 seals in the trilateral Wadden Sea,
but hunting and pollution has caused a deep decline in the seal population that became a
protected species in 1976-77. Since then, the seal population has grown, only interrupted by
the two outbreaks of the seal plague, after which it has rallied fairly quickly and today, the
Danish part of the Wadden Sea contains 4,500 harbor seals, while for the whole of the
Wadden Sea, the number is 35,500 animals.
Seal hunting
The seals have been hunted for their blubber, their meat and their pelt, but also because their
appetite for fish made then very unpopular among fishermen, who saw them as competitors
for the fish they wanted to catch. As well, the seals ruined the tools the fishermen used when
they tried to eat the fish caught in the yarns. The seal have been hunted with clubs and
firearms, but also with something called a seal harrow. The seal harrow contains a long board
with pointed barbs that were dug into the sand. The seals could crawl up on the beach and
over the harrow, but when they fled back across the sand towards the water; they were
impaled on the barbs. At one time, the state even awarded the killing of seals and made rifles
and ammunition available. This campaign caused a severe decline in the seal population.
Squealers and sick seals on the beach
In the harbor seal's suckling period it sometimes happens that the pup gets away from its
mother. Without milk, the pup is lost and crawls up on the beach where it calls to its mother.
These young pups are called squealers. Squealers have very little chance of surviving on their
own, and they are put down to avoid useless suffering. In Germany and Holland there are
centers where squealers are taken in and cared for so they can later be put out into nature. In
Denmark, this practice was stopped in 1995 since the seal population is thriving.
Reintroduction of squealers is not without problems and in Denmark; we try to minimize
human interference.
Especially in the late summer and autumn, you may see sick seals that have crawled up on
the beach for better to stay warm. If you run into a squealing pup or a seal that appears ill, it
is best to leave them in peace and quiet and to notify the Danish Nature Agency or the
Fisheries and Maritime Museum.
Things to
see
See seals!
The Wadden Sea is an obvious place to experience the seals. If you really want
to get up close, the Fisheries and Maritime Museum is a great choice. Through
large windows you can see harbor seals and grey seals that majestically glide
through the water, and if you come by at one of the two daily feedings, you will
also hear about the life and the biology of the seals.
The seals can also be experienced in nature. Seals are shy animals, so bring
along a pair of binoculars so you can observe the seals close up. Some of the
area's nature guides also conduct tours out to the seal banks. Information
about the tours can be found here: www.vadehav.dk. It is also possible to take
a trip to the seal banks aboard a cutter.
Fact box 1
Why we do not raise squealers in Denmark
In Denmark, we have elected to follow the recommendations of the Trilateral
Seal Expert Group (TSEG), and in 1995 we therefore stopped raising lost seal
pups, the so-called squealers, for later to reintroduce them back into nature.
One reason is that the seal population is now at a high level and no longer need
human help to endure. Squealers that are reintroduced, risk being carriers of
illnesses that can infect the wild population. At the same time, raising weak
individuals counteracts natural selection that removes disadvantageous genes
from the population. By raising and reintroducing weak seals there is a risk of
damaging the population.
THE TIDE AND THE WADDEN SEA
– WHAT IS UP AND WHAT IS DOWN?
Forfattere
Ulrik Geldermann Lützen (Vadehavets Formidlerforum)
Bent Jakobsen (NaturKulturVarde)
Oversættelse
Nanna Mercer
Årstider
Hele året
Tags
Tidevand; landskab; Vadehavet; flod; ebbe; højvande; lavvande;
tidevandsprognose
Foto
eksempler


Fotos af samme lokalitet ved høj og lavvande
Flyfotos der viser de blotlagte vader
SHORT VERSION
1.138 anslag
The tide exposes and then floods the Wadden Sea twice daily because the earth and especially
the moon affect each other. Tidal waves occur because the ocean on the side nearest the
moon is attracted more than it is hurled away by the centrifugal force, while on the other side,
it is hurled away from the earth more than it is attracted.
At the new and the full moon, the forces of the sun and the moon cooperate so the difference
between the high and the low tide is greater. At the half moon, the difference is the smallest
when the same forces are in opposition.
The tidal waves in the Wadden Sea start in the North Atlantic and turn up in two places in the
North Sea. Near the English Channel, the waves combine and travel on toward the Danish
coast, where they can be up to 2.50 meters tall. The waves push huge amounts of water
between the islands in a short time, leading sand and mud into the Wadden Sea.
Early on, man understood the tide and its many possibilities, such as worm digging, collecting
shellfish, plus fishing. The traditional boats in the Wadden Sea are flat bottomed for better to
rest on the wadden at the low tide.
MEDIUM VERSION
2.668 anslag
In the Wadden Sea, the tide exposes and floods the seafloor twice daily. This phenomenon
occurs because the earth, the moon and the sun influence each other, and is due to the
different forces that affect the water in different directions. However, the moon's contribution
is the greatest.
The celestial bodies are pulled toward each other by the gravitational force, while they are
hurled away from each other by the centrifugal force. Thus, the moon pulls at the water in the
sea, but mostly at the point nearest to the celestial body, while the centrifugal force is
strongest at the point furthest from the moon.
On the earth, the two tidal waves occur because a) the ocean closest to the moon is more
attracted than it is hurled away and b) the ocean furthest from the moon is hurled away from
the earth more than it is attracted to it.
Tidal waves are not the same size every day. At the spring flood, that is to say, at the full and
the new moon, the forces of the sun and the moon work together so that the difference
between the high and the low tide is especially large. Conversely, the tidal wave is smallest at
the half-moon, the neap tide, when the two celestial bodies oppose each other.
Near the Wadden Sea, the direction of the wind is of rather great importance for the sea level
by the coast. With strong westerly winds, the water from the North Sea is pushed towards
Jutland, thus creating an increased sea level so that both the high and the low tide are higher
than normal.
The Wadden Sea tidal wave starts as a 0.5 meter high wave in the North Atlantic that enters
the North Sea through the English Channel and the waters between Scotland and Norway. The
tide flows down along the English east coast and joins with the tidal wave from the English
Channel.
The combined tidal wave now moves up along the Dutch and German coasts, and when it gets
to the Danish border, it is 2.5 meter tall before it abates at 0.5 meters near Blåvands Huk.
Within a short period of time, tidal waves push huge amounts of water into the Wadden Sea,
thus leading large amounts of sand and mud along to the rear of the islands. The water
rushes through the deep tidal channels and is then led into the Wadden Sea though a network
of channels that branch into smaller channels called tidal creeks.
Early on, man understood the tide and its many possibilities, such as worm digging for fishing,
collecting shellfish, plus fishing using special methods. The tide has also left its mark on
sailing in the area, where the traditional boats are flat bottomed for better to rest on the
wadden at the low tide. The waddens have also been used for loading and unloading of larger
ships.
LONG VERSION
6.777 anslag
The tide and the Wadden Sea are inextricably linked since the changing sea level
affects the landscape, the flora and the fauna plus man's utilization possibilities.
From Den Helder in Holland to Blåvand in Denmark, ca. 5,200 km2 of seafloor is
exposed and flooded by 14 km3 sea water twice daily which, in the Danish part of
the Wadden Sea, creates a daily difference in the sea level of up 2.5 meters.
The tide occurs because the earth and the moon affect each other interrelationally. The sun's
contribution is not, however, without significance. So, one needs to look at things from a
larger perspective while taking a good look at the solar system in order to understand why the
sea level at the Wadden Sea rises and falls several meters approximately every six hours.
Astronomical waves
The moon's orbit around the earth depends on two forces that each pull in a different direction
while also affecting the oceans. The celestial bodies are pulled towards each other due to
gravity, which is a universal, physical phenomenon that causes all bodies with a mass to
attract each other. The pull of the moon can therefore be measured anywhere on the earth,
but is strongest at the point nearest the moon and weakest on the side of the earth furthest
from the moon.
Why the moon does not crash towards the earth is due to its orbit around the earth, which
means that the gravitational pull is counterbalanced by an outwardly effective energy called
the centrifugal force. This force is known from, among other things, carrousels and can be felt
as the force that makes you hold on to the bar, so you are not hurled off. In the earth/moon
system, the mutual rotational point is ca. ¼ inside the part of the earth nearest to the moon,
so on the earth the centrifugal force is strongest at the point furthest from the moon.
The tidal waves on earth occur because the ocean:


On one side of the earth is more attracted to the moon and therefore not hurled so far
away
On the other side of the earth is hurled further away from the earth and therefore less
attracted by the moon
Monthly variations
The size of the tidal wave is not the same from day to day, but is also affected by how the
celestial bodies stand in relation to each other.
At the new and the full moon, the sun and the moon are in line in relation to the earth, and
their respective forces work together. The difference between the high and the low tide is
therefore especially great during this period, which is called spring flood and characterized by
the lowest low tide as well as the highest high tide.
The reverse phenomenon is called neap tide and occurs during the two monthly half moons
when the sun and the moon are perpendicular in relation to the earth. The forces of the two
celestial bodies are now opposing each other and the tidal wave is smallest during this period.
Wind and water
In the North Sea and in the Wadden Sea, the direction of the wind has great significance for
the sea level by the coast, since the water is pushed in the direction of the wind.
During periods with easterly winds, the water is therefore pushed out of the Wadden Sea and
larger areas than usual are left dry.
When the winds are strong and westerly, water from the North Sea is pushed towards Jutland,
thus giving an increase in the sea level along the west coast. In such situations, the high and
the low tide are higher than normal, and when the sea level is extreme, it is call a storm
surge. Before the dikes were built along the Wadden Sea coast, the huge storm surges caused
loss of life and land.
The tide meets land
It is the local landscape that determines how large a tidal difference is experienced at the
coasts. On the open oceans, a tidal wave can be ca. 0.5 meters high, while on a global scale,
the sea level difference can be up to 16 meters and in the Wadden Sea, up to 3.5 meters.
The reason for this is due to the phenomenon that waves running towards land are stopped
by the seafloor that squeezes the waves together so they become narrower and higher.
Therefore, the period when the water is rising (flood) is shorter than the period when the
water is falling (ebb), since a huge amount of water is pushed into the Wadden Sea in a very
short period of time, while the outflow takes place in a more moderate tempo and then only
by the force of gravity.
The tide in the Wadden Sea
The Wadden Sea tidal wave starts in the North Atlantic and enters the North Sea through the
English Channel and the waters between Scotland and Norway. Since water, just like wind, is
pressed towards the right on the northern hemisphere, the tide flows down along the English
east coast and joins with the tidal wave from the English Channel. The combined tidal wave
now moves up along the Dutch and German coasts, and when it gets to the Danish border it is
2.5 meters tall, before it abates at 0.5 meters near Blåvands Huk.
The tide and its significance for the landscape
Within a short period of time, tidal waves push huge amounts of water into the Wadden Sea,
thus bringing large amounts of sand and mud along to the rear of the islands. The water
rushes through the deep tidal channels and is then led into the Wadden Sea though a network
of channels that branch into smaller channels called tidal creeks, (in the marshland, called
loer).
Every tidal run can be viewed as an independent system, where the tidal wave runs in and
out. Between two runs, there will be an area where the two tidal waves meet and the water's
speed is close to zero. Here, an increased deposit will take place which has been used on
Mandø, where Mandø Ebbevej is located right in the watershed between Knudedyb and Juvre
Dyb.
Living with the tide
The Wadden Sea flora and fauna have adjusted to a life with changing sea levels. The soil
animals in the wadden have developed different strategies that allow them to survive in the
changing environment, while birds move back and forth with the tide. The marshland plants
are extremely salt-tolerant and manage to cope with repeated and long-lasting flooding.
Early on, man understood the tide and saw its many possibilities. Aside from digging for
worms used for fishing, and collecting shellfish, the people living near the Wadden Sea
invented special catch-methods utilizing the tide. For example, "faghus-fiskeri" whereby a net
is held across a tidal channel in order to catch the fish that follow in or out of the tide, while
around Ho Bugt, people used "skuller gårde", specially designed fish traps called fyke traps.
The tide has also left its mark on sailing in the area, where the traditional boats are flat
bottomed for better to rest on the wadden at the low tide. The waddens have also been used
for loading and unloading of larger ships, with the goods carried to and fro using carts and
wagons.
Things to
do
Tidal adventures
 A visit and an overnight stay on Mandø
 Trips with nature guides from the Wadden Sea Centre or Tønnisgård,
NaturKulturVarde, among others
 Where can I go adventuring on my own?
Fact box
Tripping on the tide
It takes ca. 13 hours for a tidal wave to move from Den Helder in Holland to
Blåvandshuk.
Tide predictions
Tide predictions explain how the sea level is expected to ebb and flood. Before
going on a trip to the wadden it is important to investigate the up-to-date
predictions, and to be aware that the predictions are valid only at the
measurement stations. The tidal wave moves into the Wadden Sea from the
south, which must be a consideration when reading the tide predictions. The
tide predictions can be found on the Internet, but local nature centers and
tourist offices are often very helpful with advice about the daily situation and
local conditions.
How to read the tide predictions
A tide prediction will typically extend from midnight to midnight and show a
graph with time and sea level measured in relation to the normal sea level. If
the curve goes up, the tide is rising (flood), but if it goes down, the tide is
falling (ebb). The steeper the curve, the faster the tide rises or falls.
Experience the tide
The tide is clearly something to be aware of when one is tripping around on the
wadden, for the dried seafloor can be flooded very quickly. Even very
experienced Wadden Sea travelers can be caught by the heavy fog or the
quickly rising tide.
If you want to explore the wadden with its many wonderful things to do, you
should bring a compass or a GPS, but not before having conferred with a local
concerning the tide predictions. It is safer to start the trip on the ebb, the
falling tide.
The four Danish tidal channels
Depth
Width
Tidal area
Tidal prism
(m)
(km)
(km2)
(m3 )
Grådyb
~ 15 m
~ 1 km
~ 126
130 mio
Knudedyb
~ 15 m
~
~ 175
175 mio
Juvre Dyb
~ 17 m
~
~ 131
147 mio
Listerdyb
~ 30 m
~ 1,5 km
~ 627
627 mio
The tidal prism denotes the amount of water running in and out of a given tidal
area during the high and the low tide.
MIGRATORY BIRDS IN THE WADDEN SEA
TO TRAVEL IS TO LIVE
Forfattere
Klaus Melbye (Vadehavscentret)
Marco Brodde (Fiskeri- og Søfartsmuseet)
Oversættelse
Nanna Mercer
Årstider
Forår, efterår, vinter
Tags
Trækfugle; trækrute; Østatlantisk; fouragering; rasteområde; fjerfældning;
Foto
eksempler

Trækfugle
SHORT VERSION
1.016 anslag
The Wadden Sea has great significance for the 12 -15 million migratory birds that every spring
and autumn stop here to rest, to molt and to forage. Some of the birds breeding in Denmark
migrate to the coasts in Germany and Holland for the winter, while the birds breeding in the
arctic migrate to Africa for the winter.
The Wadden Sea's nutrition-rich mud is high in algae growth and thus forms the foundation for
a seafloor rich in life. The great food supply makes the Wadden Sea an immeasurable rich
pantry for migrating birds that stop here to fill up their fat depots. In their fat depots, the birds
stock up on energy for flying long distances, plus for warmth and for egg production. The fat
depots also contain water for when the birds fly across deserts, oceans or mountain ranges.
How the birds orient themselves during migration is far from clear, but it seems that the birds
orient themselves with the help of earth's magnetic field, plus the sun, the stars and, for
landfall, through their sense of smell.
MEDIUM VERSION
2.606 anslag
The Wadden Sea is of great importance for the 12 - 15 million birds that migrate along the
East Atlantic route which, in total, stretches 15,000 km from the south to the north. The
migratory birds are spread across 40 different species and comprised of populations of over
one million birds down to a few hundred individuals. At the Wadden Sea, wading birds
especially, but also geese are the most frequent guests during the spring and autumn, when
they rest, molt and forage.
Migratory birds do not breed in the same place where they overwinter, so they are either
short, medium or long distance fliers. The short distance fliers breed in Denmark, but migrate
to the coasts in Germany and Holland for the winter, while the medium distance fliers breed in
Northern Europe and migrate to Western Europe. The long distance fliers are the arctic
breeding birds that migrate to the tropical Africa for the winter.
The tidal areas are extremely valuable for animal life the world over, for here the sun heats up
the seafloor at the low tide. In the warm, nutrition-rich mud, the algae formation is enormous
and thus forms the foundation for a gigantic production of other soil animals. The Wadden Sea
is therefore an immeasurable rich pantry for migrating birds.
It is important for migrating birds to get a chance to build up their fat depots while they rest in
the Wadden Sea, as their fat depots also carry water and energy. The energy is, among other
things, used for staying warm, for flying long distances, plus for egg production. During
migration, water is also important for the birds, especially if they migrate across deserts,
oceans and mountain ranges.
The bird's daily flights are made close to land, but when migratory birds are traveling, they
rise to higher altitudes. Smaller birds migrate at a height of about a kilometer, while larger
birds can fly at a height of between 6 - 9 kilometers. To facilitate flying at such a great height,
the birds must be able to utilize oxygen especially well and they do that by having extra large
air sacks.
Migratory birds also use the Wadden Sea as a feather molting area. In the spring and autumn,
millions of used feathers are left on the salt meadows after the wading birds molt. Other birds
change their flight feathers all at once, and are therefore unable to fly for up five weeks.
How the birds orient themselves during migration is far from clear, but the newest research
indicates that birds can register the earth's magnetic field and in this way calibrate their route.
The birds also use the sun and the stars and, for landfall, their sense of smell.
LONG VERSION
6.134 anslag
The Wadden Sea is Denmark's National Park because the area is of crucial
significance for the 12 - 15 million birds using the East Atlantic migration route,
which covers an area, stretching south to north, of about 15,000 km, crosses more
than 30 countries and therefore one of the world's most important migration routes.
Migratory birds as opposed to sedentary birds, breed in one place and overwinter in another.
In the Wadden Sea, especially during the spring and autumn, the great flocks of wading birds
and geese create a stir when they stop to rest here during their travels. The Wadden Sea is of
immense importance as a resting, molting and foraging area for migrating birds.
There are many good reasons why it is necessary to leave the pleasingly warmer skies and
migrate, for example, to the arctic tundra in order to breed. Migratory birds seek areas with
the greatest resources in terms of food. On the arctic tundra where space is vast, the distance
to fellow species is quite large and this reduces the risks for spreading infectious diseases. In
addition, the harsh winters in the breeding areas also help to reduce the numbers of birds-of
prey and other predators.
Finally, a trend shows that the sedentary birds in, for example, Africa tolerate the migratory
birds outside their breeding season, but as soon as the sedentary birds show breeding
behavior, they become intolerant towards the migratory birds and chase them away.
The Wadden Sea and the migratory birds
Some of the most valuable nature environments in the world are the tidal areas where the
pulsating tide makes it possible for the sun to heat up the exposed seafloor at the low tide.
Through the nutrition-rich and often warm mud, the algae receive the extra energy that helps
to create an enormous plant formation. The algae form the foundation for a gigantic production
of other soil animals, such as mussels, worms, snails and crustaceans, which makes the
Wadden Sea an immeasurable rich pantry for migrating birds on the East Atlantic route.
Migrating birds and their fat depots
The energy intake in migrating birds is throughout their lives up to five times greater than
what they actually need. The excess energy is used, among other things, for staying warm, for
flying long distances, and for egg production.
Birds are better at stocking energy in their fat depots than are mammals. This is an advantage
since one gram of fat releases more than double the amount of energy compared to one gram
of carbohydrate, while at the same time tying up twice as much water. Water is of great
importance for migrating birds, especially when flying across deserts, oceans and mountain
ranges.
It is therefore important that migrating birds can build up their fat depots while they rest in
the Wadden Sea. Many migrating birds do not manage, during the day, to collect enough food
at the low tide to satisfy their needs, so they must also forage during the night.
Distance fliers
Migratory birds are either short, medium or long distance fliers, which can be noted from the
shape of their body. Those birds that fly the longest all have a torpedo formed body.
Among the short distance fliers, the mallard and the lapwing breed in Denmark, but migrate to
the coasts in Germany and Holland, where they overwinter. The eider and the oyster catcher
are medium distance fliers since they breed in Northern Europe and migrate to Western
Europe. Finally, we have the absolute long distance fliers, which are the migrating birds such
as the dunlin, the godwit and the turnstones that breed in the arctic but all migrate to the
tropical Africa for the winter.
High and low fliers
The bird's daily flights are made close to land, but when migratory birds are traveling, they
rise to higher altitudes. Smaller birds such as the snow bunting migrate at a height of about a
kilometer, while the common sandpiper, the godwit and the lapwing can fly at heights of 4 - 6
kilometers. The larger birds, such as geese, cranes and storks can fly at heights of between 6 9 kilometers.
To facilitate flying at such great heights, the birds must be able to utilize oxygen better than
man, for example by bringing it along themselves. Birds have up to nine air sacks, but they
can also stock oxygen in their hollow bones. In this way, the oxygen has a longer passage
through the bird and can therefore be used optimally.
Molting and renewal
Migratory birds also use the Wadden Sea in other ways. In the spring and autumn, millions of
used feathers can be found on the salt meadows, for feathers that have flown 4-7,000
kilometers are worn out and need to be renewed.
Some birds use a different feather molting strategy; wading birds change their feathers
continuously, while the eider is unable to fly for up five weeks, while it changes is flight
feathers.
How do birds find their way?
Migratory birds have an inborn ability to find their way, which is seen when their young are left
to their own devices on the second or third day after hatching. They simply have to follow
along on the long trek without any induction training.
The answer to how birds orient themselves during migration is far from clear, but the newest
research show that an area in their brain contains neurons that can register magnetic fields,
their strength and direction and thus, it is thought that birds can recalibrate their route if they
go astray.
How the birds orient themselves depend on several factors, since they also use the sun, the
stars and, for landfall, their sense of smell.
See the giant flocks of birds
It is very difficult to truly comprehend 12 - 15 million migratory birds as a number, but the 40
different species of birds are spread across populations of over one million birds down to a few
hundred individuals. Giant flocks of birds glistening in the sun are not an unusual sight in the
Wadden Sea.
To see and experience this, you may want to participate in the nature guide's different tours
available from March to May and again from August to October, while the geese can also be
seen during the winter. The trend seems to be that the migrating birds come a little earlier and
stay a little longer.
Things to
do
Fact box 1
Bird trips on your own. Visit the nature centers for guidance.
Species
Icelandic
Dunlin
Common
Dunlin
Godwit
Fact box 2
Species
Dwarf Dunlin
Common Dunlin
Common
Redshank
Oyster catcher
Eurasian
Curlew
Fact box 3
Weight (g)
Arrival
100
Departure
230
42
86
240
450
Body weight
(g)
Percent of
body weight
20
50
150
Consumes g
Wet/dry per
day
21/3.4
42/6.7
93/14.9
500
750
224/35.6
301/48.2
45
40
107
84
62
The Wadden Sea - like a giant pantry for 12-15 million migratory birds
Species
When
Number
Daily intake
Daily intake
for species
Icelandic
Spring
440,000
1,000 mice
440 million
Dunlin
cockles
Oyster catcher
Winter
500,000
300 cockles
1,550 million
cockles
Piet Avocet
Autumn
40,000
3,000 worms
120 million
nereis'
THE ARCHAEOLOGY OF THE WADDEN SEA
MARSHLAND PEASANTS, CHIEFTAINS AND SEAFARERS ON THE BRINK OF THE WIDE WORLD
Forfattere
Morten Søvsø (Sydvestjyske Museer)
Lene B. Frandsen (Museet for Varde By og Omegn)
Oversættelse
Nanna Mercer
Årstider
Hele året
Tags
Arkæologi; Vadehav; Ribe; fortidsminder; stenalder; bronzealder; jernalder;
vikingetid; middelalder
Foto
eksempler



Langdysser i Abterp delvis oversvømmede (fra Historisk Atlas)
Flot billede af gårde fra Hjemsted Oldtidspark.
Værftet Misthusum med Markmandshuset.
SHORT VERSION
1.029 anslag
During the Mesolithic period, the North Sea was dry land and man hunted on the wide
floodplains. Throughout the Stone Ages, the sea rose forcing the peasants towards the present
coastlines. Marshland formation increased drastically during the Bronze Age.
The marshland was fertile soil for large scale husbandry and the Stone Age peasants settled
on the Geest. Later, to the south, the peasants moved out into the marsh settling on artificial
mounds.
During the oldest Iron Age period, dwellings were simple wattle and daub longhouses spread
across the landscape either singly or in a scattered village structure. Throughout the Stone
Ages, the dwellings increased in size. Chieftains ruled the areas along the Wadden Sea and
foreign merchants sailed the ocean and the rivers. Around 700 A.D., a market place was
established in Ribe.
Through the Middle Ages and in more modern times, the salt marshes were densely
populated. The homes became half-timbered buildings, but from the early 17th century, they
were built with clay stone.
MEDIUM VERSION
2.674 anslag
During the Mesolithic period, the North Sea Basin was connected with the mainland of England
and man hunted on the wide floodplains that today lie on the bottom of the sea. Throughout
the Stone Ages, the sea rose but the flat littoral rose with it each time the tide deposited its
fertile silt sediment. With time, the peasants were driven away by the rising sea, which
indicates that marshland formation increased drastically during the Bronze Ages.
The salt marshes gave rise to large scale husbandry that could feed many people. In the
Danish Wadden Sea, the Stone Age peasants seem to have always settled where the marsh
meets the drier, somewhat higher land, the Geest.
During the oldest Iron Age period, dwellings were simple longhouses about five meters wide
and ten to fifteen meters long. The dwellings were thatched, timbered huts with wattle and
daub walls and with load-bearing posts dug into the ground. The longhouses were spread
across the landscape, some singly while others may have settled into a scattered village
structure.
The marshland dwellings grew in size throughout the Iron Ages, and around 200 A.D. the
walls and the fences were constructed of timber dug into the ground. The farms were often
surrounded by "fence buildings" that may have been hay barns. The main buildings could now
be more than 50 meters long and the village crofts often contained small dug-in pit houses.
Iron Age chieftains ruled over small or large areas of land along the Wadden Sea.
Concurrently, foreign merchants sailed the Danish Wadden Sea. A wreck found far up in the
river, Kongeåen, shows that shipbuilding was quite advanced.
Around the year 700 A.D., Ribe was established as a marketplace by the river. Most visiting
merchants were Christians and by the middle of the 9th century, Ansgar, the missionary,
received royal permission to build a church that stood for over 100 years before Denmark
officially transitioned to Christianity.
The marshland areas spread throughout the Iron Ages and the Middle Ages. In Ballum and
Tønder, the peasants moved out into the marshland where they settled on artificially
constructed islands called terps. Storm floods were rare before the 14th century, but then
they occurred frequently with a great loss of life that caused the peasants to give up living in
the former terps and villages.
Through the Middle Ages and in more modern times, the salt marshes were densely
populated. The farms developed into half-timbered buildings many of which still stand in the
marshland villages. From the 17th century, peasants built homes with solid foundations made
of clay stone that still adorn the brickwork on the oldest marshland farms.
LONG VERSION
6.547 anslag
The rich salt marshes are the key to understanding the archaeology of the Wadden
Sea. The green, endless expanses were cropped by huge herds of animals and this is
the reason why the Wadden Sea marshes were once so densely populated. Starting
in the Iron Age, foreign merchants heralding many new trends sailed along the
coasts of the Wadden Sea.
Before the Wadden Sea
The Wadden Sea did not exist in the Stone Ages. The area of land that we call Denmark today,
looked vastly different, but land submergence and sea level elevation have radically changed
the ratio between land and sea. The main features in the developments have been that the
south western Jutlandic landscape has slowly settled while the sea level has slowly risen.
During the Mesolithic period, the North Sea Basin was connected with the mainland of
England, and man hunted aurochs and red deer on the wide floodplains that today lie on the
bottom of the sea. From time to time, an antler axe or other ancient tool lost on dry land is
caught in the net of someone fishing in the North Sea, now 50 meters deep. It happens, but
rarely, that Stone Age tools are washed up along the coasts of the Wadden Sea.
The sea rose throughout the Stone Ages, and when we became peasants around 4,000 B.C,
the coast line was located just west of what today are the Danish Wadden Sea Islands, Fanø,
Mandø and Rømø. Slowly, the sea rose across the landscape where the first peasants had
settled. The tide deposited its fertile silt sediments of clay stone on the flat coastal areas that
slowly rose in conjunction with the general submersion of the land and the ocean's repeated
flooding. Today, the Stone Age fields lie hidden beneath the level surface of the salt marshes
and are difficult to find.
From time to time, passage tombs and dolmens from the Neolithic Funnel Beaker Culture have
been located in the salt marshes where they were completely overgrown by clay formations.
When, precisely, the Stone Age peasants were displaced by the sea is difficult to say, but
radiocarbon dating of the sealed surfaces beneath the marshland clay suggests that the
formation of the salt marsh landscape we know today increased drastically during the Bronze
Ages.
The peasants and their farms
Over time, the ocean and its repeated flooding of the coastal areas created the formation of
the rich salt marshes. The infinite grazing areas gave rise to large scale husbandry which in
turn allowed for feeding many people. Starting in the Iron Ages and onward, the salt marshes
were densely populated and there are many archaeological traces of these marshland farms.
In the Iron Ages, the peasants living in the Danish Wadden Sea seem to have always settled
on the edge of the Geest which is where the marsh meets the drier, somewhat more elevated
land.
The peasant's farms were thatched and timbered with walls made of wattle and daub. Loadbearing posts were dug into the ground. These postholes can be excavated, thus providing
information about the state and development of house-building as well as the farm's economy
and the social status of the inhabitants. In rare cases, we have found graves belonging to the
first marshland peasants. In the oldest period of the Iron Age, the dwellings were simple
longhouses around five meters wide and ten to fifteen meters long. In the eastern part traces
of stall partitions where animals were stabled have sometimes been found. These small farms
were spread across the landscape some singly and others may have been part of a scattered
village structure.
Throughout the Iron Ages, the marshland dwellings became bigger and around 200 A.D. a new
building style emerged where the walls and the fences were constructed of timber dug into the
ground. The postholes from these farms give precise information about the layout, and a
typical design was farms surrounded by oblong "fence buildings" that may have been hay
barns. The main buildings could now be more than fifty meters long and on the village crofts
small dug-in work huts called pit houses could be found.
Chieftains and merchants
Society in the Iron Ages was class-divided and chieftains ruled over small or large areas of
land along the Wadden Sea. By Dankirke, south of Ribe, an excavation revealed a grand Iron
Age hall, where the chieftain held banquets. Around the year 500, the hall burned down.
The many finds show that foreign merchants sailed the Danish Wadden Sea and the wreck of
the originally 20 meters long Gredstedbro-ship found far up in the river, Kongeåen, shows that
shipbuilding was quite advanced.
Around the year 700 A.D., Ribe was established as a marketplace, the first one of its kind in
Scandinavia. The central element of this early town was its marketplace by the river, where
skilled artisans made glass pearls, bronze jewelry, combs made from antlers, amber jewelry,
weapons and so much more. Most of the visiting merchants were Christians and by the middle
of the 9th century, Ansgar, the missionary, received royal permission to build a church in Ribe.
Very recent excavations by Ribe Cathedral suggest that it really here that Ansgar built his
church more than 100 years before Denmark officially transitioned to Christianity in the year
965.
Terps
Throughout the Iron Ages and the Viking Era, the marshland areas grew and spread. By
Ballum and Tønder, the peasant moved out into the marshland where they settled on artificial
mounds made of clay, the so-called terps. These are only found in the southern area of the
Danish Wadden Sea with the settlement, Misthusum by Skærbæk, as the most northern
example. On these plain mounds, the peasants lived in the middle of the marsh with the sea
as the nearest neighbor.
The marshland settlement pattern is not indicative of storm floods being an ordinary
occurrence before the 14th century. Hereafter, they became regular events that have,
throughout the years, cost many lives and lead to many peasant giving up their homes on the
terps and the villages. Close to Gl. Hviding south of Ribe, many large farms built in the 11th
century and since overgrown by marshland formations have been excavated.
Marshland farms in more modern times
Through the Middle Ages and in more modern times, the salt marshes were densely
populated. The farms developed into half-timbered buildings many of which survived in the
20th century marshland villages. From the 17th century, the peasants built homes with solid
foundations made from the characteristically dark clay stone that still adorn the brickwork on
the oldest preserved marshland farms.
Adventures
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Fact box
Long Dolmen in Abterp by Bredebro. Here you can clearly see how the
Stone Age landscape sunk into the sea. (Photo from Historic Atlas)
In Marbæk plantation, a series of sites dating back to the oldest Iron Age
have been exposed. The floors are paved with fieldstone and still show the
precise contours of the 2000 year old buildings.
In Hjemsted Banke by Skærbæk, a whole village from the period 200 - 400
A.D. have been excavated. In Hjemsted Oldtidspark, you can see a fullscale reconstruction of these farms.
At the museum Ribes Vikinger, you will find exhibitions of the rich artifacts
from Ribe town's Viking Era and Middle Ages.
By Ribe Cathedral, a large cemetery from the Viking Era has been excavated.
Here, by the middle of the 9th century, the missionary Ansgar received royal
permission to build a church. It is still there and is the oldest church in
Scandinavia.
THE WADDEN SEA LANDSCAPE
–A MIX OF SEA, SAND, MUD AND MUCK
Forfattere
Ulrik Geldermann Lützen (Vadehavets Formidlerforum)
Søren Rask Jessen (Naturstyrelsen Ribe)
Oversættelse
Nanna Mercer
Årstider
Forår, sommer, efterår, vinter
Tags
Landskab; istid; vadehavsøer; tidevandsdyb; højsande; muddervade;
mudderflade; bakkeø; geest; marsk; dige; tidevand
Foto
eksempler
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Forland/marsk
Bakkeø (klint)
Luftfoto
SHORT VERSION
1.126 anslag
The Wadden Sea is a changeable landscape stretching from Denmark to Holland and
comprised of the area between the islands and the mainland.
The last two Ice Ages first deposited the slightly raised Geest and then the meltwater rivers
left sand and gravel between the moraines. Later, waves bought sand back towards the coast,
and the sandflats emerged where the range in the tides and the deep tidal gullies allowed it.
The Wadden Sea islands became sandflats where immigrating plants created the dunes.
Behind the islands, sand and clay is deposited at every high tide. On the mudflats, the clay is
converted into particles by soil animals, hence becoming more robust when confronted with
waves and currents. In the most protected areas, you find the marshland, where salt-tolerant
plants catch the clay particles and that way help to elevate the land.
Since the first dikes were established in the Middle Ages, man has continually shifted the
natural balance in the landscape of the Wadden Sea. Today, most of the marshland areas are
diked, but the dredging of channels and the building of dams also contribute to vast changes.
MEDIUM VERSION
2.719 anslag
The Wadden Sea is the tidal area between the Wadden Sea islands and the mainland. It is the
longest stretch of sand flats and mudflats in the world and it runs from Denmark to Holland.
The history of the Wadden Sea starts after the previous Ice Age when the ice left a moraine
landscape that today is seen as the elevated Geest. When, during the last Ice Age, the area
was dry but not covered with ice, the meltwater rivers deposited sand and gravel like a thick
cover between the hilly moraine landscape.
When the North Sea region was once again flooded, waves bought sand back towards the
coast. The sand settled on the surface that, over time, reached an elevation where flooding
seldom occurred. On the now drier sandflats, dune plants immigrated and drifting sand could
be caught between the stems. That is how the first dunes were created and thus, the Wadden
Sea islands.
The location of the islands depends on the tidal range. Where the range is greatest, the deep
tidal gullies lie so close together that there are no islands. In the Danish Wadden Sea, the
positions of these gullies allow enough room for the islands, Rømø, Mandø and Fanø, plus the
peninsula, Skallingen.
Behind the islands, the landscape lies well protected against the waves from the North Sea. At
the high tide, a large amount of sand and clay is moved into the lagoon where parts of it are
deposited. On the mudflats, soil animals filter the water and the clay particles in their search
for food. These fine particles go through the animals and leave as excrements in sizes that are
larger and therefore more difficult for the waves and the currents to move. Thus, the soil
animals are of great importance in determining how robust the waddens are against the
erosion caused by the waves.
On the side facing east on the islands and between the hilly moraines, the marshland
emerged when salt-tolerant plants immigrated to the higher areas of the waddens. With tidal
flooding, the plants retain the clay particles not only on but also between the stems, thus
helping to elevate the land.
In the distant past, the marshland areas attracted man who settled on the Geest and later on
man-made mounds. During the Middle Ages, the first dikes were built in Tøndermarsken and
today, most marshland areas are diked, with Ho Bugt as the only exception. Today, the
dredging of channels and the building of dams has shifted the natural balance between the
erosion and the sedimentation of the Wadden Sea.
Researchers are cautiously optimistic that the marshland can keep up when the ocean in the
future begins to rise even faster. The dynamic in the Wadden Sea is very complex and one
thing is certain - the landscape will not remain as we know it - today.
LONG VERSION
6.049 anslag
The area of the Wadden Sea represents merely a small piece of Denmark, but some
of the country's (maybe the world's) most exciting and dynamic square kilometers also in an international perspective.
The Wadden Sea is the area between a total of 23 Wadden Sea islands and the mainland that
stretches 500 km from Blåvands Huk in Denmark to Den Helder in Holland. Thus, the Wadden
Sea, with its ca. 8.000 km2 is the longest unbroken stretch of sand and mudflats in the world,
of which 850 km2 are Danish.
This area is created by a combination of the changing Ice Ages' deposits of sand, gravel,
tides, waves, mud, plants and an unbelievable amount of animal excrements. Not until far in
the development of the Wadden Sea did a very different, but decisive factor become evident man's striving for new land and protection.
The ice sowed the seed
The early history of the Wadden Sea is marked by the last two Ice Ages, when enormous
sheets of ice covered large areas of Northern Europe, changing the landscape beneath and in
front of it.
The previous Ice Age (Saale) topped 140,000 years ago and covered large parts of Northern
Europe. When the ice retreated, the current Wadden Sea area looked like a hilly landscape as
we know it from eastern Denmark. The water level rose and the area took the form of a coast
landscape with bays, straits and belts. The remains of this landscape, the moraines, the
elevated areas along the Wadden Sea, have their own local name: the Geest.
The last Ice Age (Weichsel) ended about 11,500 years ago, but this time the ice "only"
reached to 80km east of the Wadden Sea area. The North Sea area had dried and become
tundra covered by lichen, herbs and dwarf bushes. The plants attracted, among others,
reindeer and aurochs which bought the first Stone Age hunters to the area.
From the ice sheet rose rivers of meltwater that paved the way between the moraines,
bringing sand and gravel towards the Ice Age ocean. The huge amounts of sand and gravel
became a thick, even layer of a westerly sloping cover between the moraines and gave the
landscape the character of flat tundra.
The islands are formed
When, once again, the ice lost its grip on the land, the oceans rose once more and, ca. 8,000
years ago, flooded the Stone Age people's hunting grounds, i.e., the North Sea. Nature, the
tides, the winds and the waves took over and formed the landscape. The North Sea waves
bought the sand from the huge meltwater floods back towards the coast where, among other
things, it became large expanses of sand. With time, the sandy expanses reached an elevation
where flooding was rare and another of the Wadden Sea landscapes was born - the sandflats.
On the now drier sandflats, plants that could catch drifting sands between their stems
migrated from other regions. That is how the first dunes were formed and thus, the Wadden
Sea islands.
Island location is dependent on the range of the deep Wadden Sea tidal gullies. In Tyske
Bugt, the central part of the Wadden Sea, where the tides reach their maximum range of 4m,
the tidal gullies lie too close for there to be room for islands. In the Danish part of the Wadden
Sea, where the tidal range is lower (1½-2m) these gullies are positioned far enough apart to
allow room for the islands, Rømø, Mandø and Fanø, plus the peninsula, Skallingen.
The places where the islands were formed functioned as barriers against the rough waters
from the North Sea, thus protecting the hinterland.
Accumulation of plant growths and animals
In the Danish part of the Wadden Sea, water washes through the tidal gullies at a rate of ca.
2 km3 at every tide, bringing huge amounts of sand and clay into the lagoon between the
islands and the mainland. About 3 to 5 percent of this material is deposited in calmer waters
and even clay particles have a chance of coming to rest here, helped in large measure by the
plant and animal life in the Wadden Sea. On the mudflat live large numbers of soil animals
such as mussels and snails that filter the water particles in their own search for food. These
fine particles move though the animals and exit as courser particles. Course particles are
more difficult for the waves and the current to move around and the animals therefore have a
significant share in keeping the mudflats resistant to the erosion caused by the waves.
On the side facing east on the islands and between the hilly moraines, the marshland
emerged when salt-tolerant plants like glasswort immigrated to the higher areas of the
wadden. With tidal flooding, the plants retain the clay particles not only on but also between
the stems by lowering the speed of the water. The material retained by the plants helps to
elevate the marshland by approximately 4mm per year on average.
Mankind
The rich and fertile marshland has always attracted man, who settled on the elevated Geest
where he was somewhat secure from storm surges. As further protection against the sea,
medieval man built the first dikes in Tøndermarsken. Today, the only undiked marshland is
that surrounding Ho Bugt and Varde Ådal, and thus most of the marshland has been deprived
of its natural development with yearly flooding and inflow of material.
In tandem with technological progress and its many possibilities, man's imprint on the land
started in earnest. The dredging of the channel through Grådyb by Esbjerg, plus the dams
built by Rømø and Sylt are examples of infrastructure that has shifted the natural balance
between the erosion and the sedimentation of vast areas.
The future
Today, in the Wadden Sea, the sea level rises by ca. 2.2mm per year, which means that in
most places the marshland can keep up with the rising ocean. Researchers are therefore
cautiously optimistic that the marshland and the wadden can keep up when the ocean in the
future begins to rise even faster. The Wadden Sea and the dynamic behind it very complex
and one thing is certain - the landscape will not remain as we know it - today.
The Wadden Sea has never been and will never be stable, for this is a landscape forever
changing.
Things to
see
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Moraines - can be seen in for example Hjerpsted and Marbæk
Sandflats - Koresand west of Mandø and Jordsand opposite Hjerpsted
Mudflats - The Wadden Sea mudflats can be seen by Ballum, Emmerlev
Klev, Juvre on Rømø and from parking areas between Kongeåen and Sneum
Å
Undiked marshland: around Ho Bugt, up towards Oksbøl, on Skallingen,
and in Råhede
Fact box 1
Every year, approximately 70 million tons of clay and sand is moved into the
Wadden Sea, but only 3.5 percent of it is deposited.
Fact box 2
Esbjerg Harbor was built, in part, because of the advantageous access it
afforded ships though Grå Dyb, but with still larger and more depth-demanding
ships, it became necessary to dredge the channel. This has shifted the natural
development in the area, and the coasts on Skallingen's southern point and on
Fanø's northern tip are receding, since they deliver the material that waves and
currents bring in to refill the channel.
By building the dams to Rømø and to the German island Sylt, the tidal area
around Listerdyb was trapped, thereby changing the tidal and current
conditions.
THE SALT MEADOWS IN THE WADDEN SEA
AN ETERNAL STRUGGLE AGAINST THE SALT
Forfattere
Marco Brodde (Fiskeri- og Søfartsmuseet)
Bent Jacobsen (NaturKulturVarde)
Oversættelse
Nanna Mercer
Årstider
Forår, sommer, efterår
Tags
Strandeng; Saltpåvirkning; Saltkoncentration; Iltmangel; Tilpasning;
Græsning; Diger; Grønningen; Skallingen
Foto
eksempler
SHORT VERSION
1.167 anslag
The Wadden Sea contains some of the most valuable, salt-affected and dynamic salt meadows
in Denmark. The salt meadow is a nature type found near the coast and it only exists when
the vegetation is kept down by, for example, grazing animals.
The salt meadow develops when the materials deposited by the tide slowly cause enough
elevation of the sea floor for the first plants to show up.
The salt stops many plant species from immigrating, but the plants in the salt meadows have
adapted in different ways. The plants must have the ability to build up a higher concentration
of salt than that in the surrounding soil since, otherwise, the water will travel from the plant
and out into the soil.
Flooding presents yet other challenges. Waves tear on the plants, the soil erodes, the sunlight
is reduced and the oxygen conditions are poor.
The diking of the marshland has meant that large salt meadows have lost their connection to
the sea. Today, the salt meadows are found almost exclusively on the islands or in front of the
dikes.
MEDIUM VERSION
1.167 anslag
Always found near the coast, a salt meadow is a nature type that can only exist as such when
the vegetation is kept down by grazing animals or by hay harvesting. Grazing encourages the
biological diversity on the meadow by securing light for a long list of plants and insects that
attract, for example, the lapwing and the oyster catcher.
Near the Wadden Sea, the salt meadows are very salt-affected and dynamic since tide and
storms create new salt meadows while others erode. The depositing of material that occurs
when the tide rolls across the wadden ensures the slow elevation of the sea floor. When the
elevation is high enough, the first plants show up and the more plants, and the more of them
that take root, the more sediment is held back. The level is therefore further elevated, other
plants immigrate and a new piece of salt meadow is born.
The salt meadow zone closest to the coast is where the salt impact is the greatest, while it is
generally less, higher in the terrain. The salt stops many plants from immigrating and the
vegetation will therefore exclusively consist of characteristic salt meadow plants. Reeds,
however, can change the meadow to a more species-poor reed swamp, which is of great
importance to reed forest birds.
The plants adapt in different ways to life in the salt-rich meadows. Some collect the salt in
older leaves that die and wither, while others try to secrete the salt through glands on the
leaves. Others yet again, dilute the salt by growing since the tissue in these plants consists of
watery cells. However, the plants must be able to accumulate a salt concentration that is
higher than in the surrounding soil for, otherwise, the water will wander from the plant to the
soil.
Flooding presents yet other challenges. Waves tear on the plants, the soil erodes, the sunlight
is reduced and the oxygen conditions are poor. The plants compensate for the lack of oxygen
by weaving many small roots through the more oxygen-rich top layer of soil.
The Wadden Sea contains some of the most valuable salt meadows in Denmark. By diking the
marsh near the mainland, these large salt meadows so affected by the tide lost their
connection to the sea. Today, salt meadows are found exclusively on the islands or in front of
the dikes. In Margrethe Kog, the natural processes have been imitated by pumping saltwater
on the otherwise diked and fresh-water hinterland, where it is therefore still possible to find
salt-tolerant plants and an inter-reliant bird life.
LONG VERSION
1.167 anslag
The salt meadows are one of the characteristic types of landscape in the Wadden
Sea and an example of the fascinating interplay between plants, insects, birds,
landscape and the doings of man.
The term salt meadow reveals that this nature type is found close to a coast. The term,
meadow, is actually connected to man's use of the area in question. A meadow will only
remain as one such when the vegetation is kept down by either grazing or hay harvesting.
When a meadow is not being used it will develop into a bog, a swamp or a thicket.
A salt meadow is often affected by the salt from sea flooding or from the air. In the Wadden
Sea, the effect of the salt is greater than in the salt meadows on the eastern Danish coasts,
and there is generally a greater dynamic. The tide and the storms are instrumental in the
creation of new salt meadows, while others erode at a speed not seen at other places in this
country.
The daily deposits of fine-grained material that occurs when the tide rolls across the wadden
ensure that the sea floor, so to speak, is raised slowly close to the coastline. When the level is
sufficiently elevated, the first plants start showing up on the new land. The more plants that
take root in this zone between sea and land, the more sediment can be retained from the
water. The dance has started, the level is raised further and other plants join the line for a
chance with their dance cards and a new piece of salt meadow has been created.
Grazing animals have several functions
In the outer zone of the salt meadow, the one closest to the coast, the effect of the salt is
greatest and generally decreases higher up in the terrain and yet, it is not that simple.
Hollows in the upper part of the salt meadow, can turn out to be much more affected by the
salt, when a flooding has left a small and isolated lake, a so-called salt pan, where the water
evaporates, but leaves the salt.
The effects of the salt in the meadow, stops many plant species from immigrating. Thus, taller
bushes are kept at bay and the vegetation will consists of only the characteristic salt meadow
plants. However, reeds can immigrate and change the meadow to a so-called reed swamp, a
nature type which is of great importance to reed forest birds such as the reedling or the
marsh harrier, but far more species-poor than the light filled salt meadow.
Grazing or simply the mere appearance of livestock furthers the biological diversity on the
meadow. For one thing, grazing secures light for a long list of plants and insects, and for
another animals tramping around creates small recesses in the soil, where specialized species
can find room to grow. As well, the animals inadvertently move plant seeds around and in this
way ensure propagation. The presence of sufficient amounts of light on the cropped pastures
leaves the meadow rich in insects that attract typical marshland birds such as the lapwing and
the oyster catcher.
Impressive adaptability
Plants adapt in different ways to life on the salt meadows.
The beautiful sea starwort collects the salt in older leaves that then die and wither, while
plants like sea lavender and rice grass try to get rid of the salt through glands on the
underside of their leaves. This can be both seen and tasted by moving a finger over, or rather
underneath, a leaf on a summer day when the evaporation of water from the glands is
greatest and the need to secrete salt on the rise.
Other plants like the annual glasswort dilute the salt simply by growing, since the plant tissue
contains watery cells. After only one season the glasswort must give up. Success is sure, for
the plant has run to seed that will be spread effectively by the tide.
Paradoxically enough, the plants in the salt meadows must be able to retain a larger
concentration of salt in their cells than what is present in the surrounding soil. If they could
not, water from the plants would simply wander into the soil to maintain the salt balance. The
plants must therefore be able to regulate the salt concentration, for a concentration that is too
low means a lot of water while a concentration that is too high means salt poisoning. Life on
the salt meadow is not easy.
Add to that the fact that the plants must be able to stand, knee-deep, so to speak, in water or
even at some point, be completely flooded. Not only are the oxygen conditions poor in water,
but the flooding reduces the amount of light which leaves photosynthesis almost on standby.
Flooding also wears on the plants, which makes it a challenge to hold on to the soil that
erodes by the continual movement of the water.
The plants compensate for the lack of oxygen in the waterlogged environment by developing
many extra small roots with the primary function of weaving through the topmost layer of
soil, where the greatest amount of oxygen is found. Some plants are even more subtle in their
ability to send oxygen from the above-ground parts of the plant down to the underwater
roots. This ability requires a certain type of air tissue that is characteristic for swamp or salt
meadow plants such as the common reed.
The physical wear and tear caused by repeated flooding result in different strategies. When
tiny fragments of the salt meadow grass are spread, say, by cattle tramping around, each
individual piece of grass will take root and quickly send runners out across the soil.
Dikes and designed environments
The Wadden Sea contains some of the most valuable salt meadows in Denmark. It is almost
impossible to imagine the incredibly large meadow areas that were spread across the region
up until the 20th century. By diking the marsh on the mainland, large areas of tide-dependent
salt meadows from Esbjerg to Højer lost their connection to the sea. Today, salt meadows are
found exclusively on the islands or in front of the dikes. In Margrethe Kog, the natural
processes have been imitated by pumping saltwater on the otherwise diked, fresh-water
hinterland, where it is still possible to find salt-tolerant plants and the inter-reliant bird life.
Things to
do
Some of the vaster salt meadow areas in the Wadden Sea are found on
Skallingen and on Grønningen on Fanø. In both places it is possible to
experience, in the best way possible, the different plant zones from the
elevated dunes to the low salt affected meadows. Be considerate of the grazing
animals, for they have an important function out here. The salt meadows and
their plant life can be studied from May to October, with most species blooming
in July.
Fact box 1
Small critters
The insects on the salt meadows or the Wadden living with flooding and an
oxygen-poor environment are smaller than the average insect. Thus, they have
a low metabolism and a shorter oxygen transport time. The insects can also
carry an oxygen depot, for example under their wings.
Fact box 2
Insects and their internal tide table
Many of the insects on the salt meadows carry an internal tide table. Even
when in a laboratory far from the coast, they know when the tide rises and
falls, which is rather remarkable considering that the tide table shifts every
day. Some insects have even managed to synchronize their egg laying with the
spring tide that happens every two weeks.
THE OYSTERS IN THE WADDEN SEA
A PROBLEMATIC DELICACY?
Forfattere
Sten Munk Svendsen (Vadehavscentret)
Lasse Fast Jensen (Fiskeri- og Søfartsmuseet)
Oversættelse
Nanna Mercer
Årstider
Efterår, vinter, forår
Tags
Stillehavsøsters; vinter; østers; østersture; vadehavet; invasiv
Foto
eksempler
SHORT VERSION
1.167 anslag
In 1922, when the original European oyster was wiped out, the resistant Pacific oyster was
imported to Europe. In 1986, the pacific oyster is introduced on the island Sylt, and ten years
later it has arrived with the ocean current to the Danish Wadden Sea.
The Pacific oyster can become 40 cm long and 30 years old. It tolerates huge temperature
fluctuations and can change sex during its lifespan. In order to spawn, the temperature must
be over 20C for a longer period of time.
The many Pacific oysters can displace the food chain balance since the oyster beds make good
hiding places for crabs and starfish, which increase the pressure on their predators. The
oyster also settles on mussels beds, which can have significance for the animals drawing
sustenance from them.
Collecting oysters in the Wadden Sea has not always been permitted as it is today. In the
distant past, the King had a monopoly on the Wadden Sea oysters, but today, the National
Fisheries Directorate give permission for commercial fishing of oysters, while the Danish
Veterinary and Food Administration supervise the production areas.
MEDIUM VERSION
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The Pacific oyster has spread across the world and by 1996 had established residence in the
Danish Wadden Sea. In just a few years, their numbers rose heavily, and they created several
oyster beds.
The Pacific oyster is a giant among oysters since the shell can be up to 40 cm in length. The
species can reach an age of 30 years and is enormously hardy since it can tolerate huge
temperature fluctuations. It filters the sea water for microscopic plankton algae and is
capable of filtering 12 liters of sea water per hour. The oyster starts life as a male, but later
changes sex to become a female. For the females to spawn, the water must have a
temperature of more than 20C for a continuous length of time, which does not happen every
year in the Wadden Sea.
In 1922, the original European oyster was hit by crayfish plague which, in just a few years,
wiped out the whole population. In the middle of the 20th century, the shortage of European
oysters made it imperative to import Pacific oysters from Japan, and they were introduced in
Holland and France since the oyster was known to be very resistant to the crayfish plague. In
1986, the Pacific oyster was introduced on the German island Sylt, where ten years later, the
oyster larvae had moved up to the Danish Wadden Sea with the ocean current and, so, a new
and invasive species was introduced to the Danish environment. The species have now spread
even further up along the Jutlandic west coast to Limfjorden, Horsens fjord, Isefjorden near
Kalundborg, and Langeland.
The Pacific oyster can indirectly displace the food chain balance in the Wadden Sea. The many
oyster beds create hiding places for smaller species like crabs and starfish and the predation
pressure on their prey is thus increased. It has also been observed that the Pacific oyster can
live on top of mussel beds. This can have significance for the animals that eat mussels such as
the eider, the oyster catcher and the herring gull.
The huge numbers of oysters have created a desire for oyster tours, which take place in the
Wadden Sea at the low tide. There is no other place in Denmark where is it possible to stand
on solid ground while collecting as many oysters as you can carry. It has not always been
given to Mr. Everyman to collect the Wadden Sea oysters. In 1587, King Frederik II
demanded monopoly on oysters, for in Europe it had become modern to eat oysters. In 1676,
the monopoly descended to Schackenborg castle and later, to different merchants. Today, the
National Fisheries Directorate issue licenses for commercial fishing of oysters, while the
Danish Veterinary and Food Administration supervise the production areas.
LONG VERSION
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Pacific oysters are a new species in the Danish Wadden Sea, and a species that
presents certain challenges for the ecosystem, albeit one that kindles pleasure for
the many food interested tourists.
In 1996, it could be documented for the first time that the Pacific oyster had settled in the
Danish Wadden Sea. Over a few years, the number of Pacific oysters rose heavily and resulted
in several oyster beds in the Wadden Sea. The oyster beds vary a great deal in size and
accessibility, but have become a popular excursion spot for many tourists. With expert
knowledge from the tour providers along the Wadden Sea coast, the tourists are escorted out
to the oyster beds, where they can freely collect oysters for personal consumption.
Pacific oysters – biology and habitat
Pacific oysters (Crassostrea gigas) are as the Latin species name implies a giant among
oysters, where the shell can become up to 40 cm in length. The species can reach an age of
30 and is incredibly hardly since it can tolerate water temperatures ranging from -5C to
+40C. It is precisely this tolerance for great fluctuations in temperature that has contributed
to its enormous expansion the world over. Pacific oysters are found near the coasts in Japan,
Korea, Siberia, Australia, USA, Canada and Europe.
Pacific oysters feed by filtering sea water for microscopic plankton algae. Investigations have
shown that a Pacific oyster is capable of filtering 12 liters of sea water per hour.
Oysters start life as males, but later change sex to become females - a phenomenon known
as 'protandric hermaphrodism'. The females spawn eggs in July and August and can release
20 to 100 million eggs at a time. However, the spawning is not annual in the Wadden Sea
since it demands a water temperature of over 20C for a continuous length of time.
From the Pacific ocean to the Wadden Sea
In 1922, the original European oyster (Ostrea edulis) was hit by crayfish plague which, with
its high mortality rate wiped out the whole European oyster population in just a few years. In
the middle of the 20th century, the shortage of European oysters made it imperative to import
Pacific oysters from Japan to Europe. The Pacific oyster was known to be very resistant to the
crayfish plague that killed the European oyster population.
The first releases were made in France and Holland during the years 1964 - 1969. A few
decades later, in 1986, the Pacific oyster was introduced on the German Wadden Sea island
Sylt, with the result that, 10 years later, in 1996, Pacific oysters could be documented in the
Danish Wadden Sea. The oyster larvae had moved with the ocean current from Sylt to the
Danish Wadden Sea and were thereby introduced as a new species in the Danish
environments. Since Pacific oysters are not native to Danish nature, they are considered an
invasive species.
Wadden Sea oysters in the distant past
It has not always been a given that Mr. Everyman had any right to collect oysters in the
Wadden Sea. In 1587, Frederik II proclaimed in an open letter that he retained the monopoly
to this interesting food from the Wadden Sea. It had become very modern among the
European high society to eat oysters; so it was in the King's interest that oysters from the
Wadden Sea be allotted to the throne. Since, naturally, oysters should be available in
sufficient numbers for his majesty, the proclamation ended on the note that the death penalty
would befall anyone who was bold enough to collect even one of the oysters that belonged to
the King.
Frederik II's monopoly on oysters lasted until 1676, when the right descended to Hans Schack
on Schackenborg castle in Southern Jutland. Thereafter, the right to collect oysters was
leased to different merchants.
Pacific oysters today
Today, it is the State in the guise of the National Fisheries Directorate that has the "right" to
issue licenses for commercial fishing of oysters, while the Danish Veterinary and Food
Administration supervise the production areas and can open and close for commercial fishing
if the incidences of poisonous algae are too high.
The number of Pacific Oysters in the Wadden Sea is huge, and the latest statements from
2008 show that there are approximately 12,000 tons. In addition, the species have spread
from the Wadden Sea and up along the Jutlandic west coast to Limfjorden, Horsens fjord,
Isefjorden near Kalundborg, and Langeland.
The huge numbers of oysters have created a desire for a new form of tourism - oyster tours.
The popular tours take place at the low tide in the Wadden Sea. There is no other place in
Denmark where is it possible to stand on solid ground while collecting as many oysters as you
can carry.
Pacific oysters – impact on the ecosystem in the Wadden Sea
The many oyster beds in the Wadden Sea function as large reefs that create hiding places for
some of the smaller species on the seafloor, such as crabs and starfish. The many hiding
places cause an increase in the number of crabs and starfish, which in turn produce an
increase in the predation pressure on their respective prey. In this way, the Pacific oyster can
indirectly displace the food chain balance in the Wadden Sea.
It has also been observed that the Pacific oyster can live on top of already established mussel
beds, which reduces the access to the Wadden Sea mussels. This can be significant for the
animals that eat mussels such as the eider, the oyster catcher and the herring gull.
Things to
do
If you want to see and experience the huge beds of Pacific oysters in the
Wadden Sea, you can sign up for one of the many public oyster tours with a
local provider who knows the way around the wadden.
The tours are possible from September to April, when the ocean is coldest and
the risk of shell fish poisoning the least. Please read about the following local
providers:
 Rømø: www.tonnisgaard.dk
 Tønder: www.sortsafari.dk,
 Ribe: www.vadehavscentret.dk
Fact box 1
Worldwide production
Worldwide, more than four million tons of Pacific Oysters are produced per year
in various aqua-cultures.
Fact box 2
The French love oysters!
France is the country in Europe that produces the most oysters. In 2004, the
production reached 115,000 tons of oysters. The bulk of the French production
is consumed in France. Export then, was 7,000 tons of oysters in 2004.
Fact box 3
Algae poisons in oysters
During warm periods, the oceans are rife with algae blossoms that are
poisonous for human beings. Since oysters feed on the algae in the water, they
can very quickly arrive at an infelicitous accumulation of algae poisons, and to
such a degree that they will make you very ill if you eat them. Such a poisoning
can last from a few days to a few months to even a few years and can cause
permanent injury.
It is therefore recommended that private individuals gather and eat oysters
ONLY in the colder months from September to April (months with an "r"). The
poison cannot be seen or tasted and is not removed through heating.