Erosion by Waves
Dana Desonie, Ph.D.
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Printed: January 7, 2015
AUTHOR
Dana Desonie, Ph.D.
www.ck12.org
C HAPTER
Chapter 1. Erosion by Waves
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Erosion by Waves
• Learn how waves cause erosion.
• Describe the landforms caused by wave erosion.
Is this erosion or deposition?
The power of the ocean modifies landforms by erosion and deposition. Landforms modified by both erosion and
deposition are seen in this photo. The cliff is being eroded by incoming waves. The beach is being created as sand
is being deposited.
Wave Erosion
Wave energy does the work of erosion at the shore. Waves erode sediments from cliffs and shorelines. The sediment
in ocean water acts like sandpaper. Over time, they erode the shore. The bigger the waves are and the more sediment
they carry, the more erosion they cause ( Figure 1.1).
FIGURE 1.1
Waves erode sediment from sea cliffs. The sediment is then deposited on
beaches. These sandy cliffs are in Greece.
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Wave refraction either concentrates wave energy or disperses it. In quiet water areas, such as bays, wave energy is
dispersed. This allows sand to be deposited. Land that sticks out into the water is eroded by the strong wave energy.
The wave energy concentrates its power on the wave-cut cliff.
Landforms From Wave Erosion
Erosion by waves can create unique landforms ( Figure 1.2).
• Wave-cut cliffs form when waves erode a rocky shoreline. They create a vertical wall of exposed rock layers.
• Wave-cut platforms are level areas formed by wave erosion. Since these platforms are above sea level, it
means that either sea level was higher relative or the rock was lower.
FIGURE 1.2
A wave-cut platform is exposed in Pembrokeshire, South Wales.
• Sea arches form when waves erode both sides of a cliff. They create a hole in the cliff, like the one pictured
below ( Figure 1.3).
FIGURE 1.3
A sea arch creates a natural bridge in California.
• Sea stacks form when waves erode the top of a sea arch. This leaves behind pillars of rock.
Sediment Transport
Rivers carry sediments from the land to the sea. Sometimes the sediments are deposited in a delta. But if the waves
are powerful, the water will transport the sediments along the coastline. Sediments eroded from cliffs near the
shoreline may also be transported.
Wave Refraction
Most waves approach the shore at an angle. The part of the wave that is nearer the shore reaches shallow water
sooner than the part that is farther out. The shallow part of the wave "feels" the bottom first. This slows down the
inshore part of the wave and makes the wave "bend." This bending is called refraction.
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Chapter 1. Erosion by Waves
• In this animation, notice how the wave refracts as it comes into the beach. http://www.grossmont.edu/garyjac
obson/Oceanography%20112/Wave%20Model.htm
Most waves strike the shore at an angle. This creates longshore currents, which are described in the concept "Surface
Ocean Currents."
Summary
• Ocean waves have a tremendous amount of energy and so they may do a great deal of erosion.
• Some landforms created by erosion are platforms, arches, and sea stacks.
• Longshore currents are created because water approaches the shore at an angle.
Explore More
Use the resource below to answer the questions that follow.
• What is Coastal Erosion? at http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=zUh3WeilFN4 (4:12)
MEDIA
Click image to the left or use the URL below.
URL: http://www.ck12.org/flx/render/embeddedobject/58883
1.
2.
3.
4.
5.
6.
What is coastal erosion??
What is accretion?
What causes erosion to increase?
How does rock type affect the rate of erosion? How does this affect the appearance of the coastline?
What are the four ways coastal erosion happens?
Why are rates of erosion expected to increase?
Review
1. What are the two ways an increase in wave energy will increase coastal erosion?
2. How does wave refraction work as a wave approaches a shoreline?
3. Does all the sand at a beach come from currents and waves bringing it in?
References
1. Flickr:kdask. Waves erode cliffs to form beaches . CC BY 2.0
2. David Evans. A wave-cut platform is exposed in Pembrokeshire, South Wales . CC BY 2.0
3. Vadim Kurland (Flickr:vkurland). A sea arch creates a natural bridge in California . CC BY 2.0
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