Chapter_4
HISTORICAL BACKGROUND OF THE
TEXTILE INDUSTRY
===================================================
INTRODUCTION
The textile industry is as old as the human civilization. Cloth is one of the
basic needs of human being. In ancient ages, the cloth was made only from cotton.
At present, cloth is made from silk, rayon, nylon, filament yarn, man-made fiber,
viscose, staple and polyester etc. Besides this, cloth is prepared by hand process.
But in this modern era highly modernized technique and computerised looms are
used for the production of cloth. The entire process is being done by high
technique machines. Earlier, textile industry comprised of only cloth weaving, but
today it includes ginning, reeling, spinning, weaving, processing, sizing, printing
and garment manufacturing also. The textile industry plays a vital and significant
role in the economy of our country.
In the words of N.M. Mugadur, the director of enforcement, "Textile is one
of basic essential commodities and hence it is listed under essential Commodities
Act 1955. It has its own importance in the daily life of common masses as next to
food. It is classified as industrial consumable and general public consumable
commodity."
ROLE OF TEXTILE INDUSTRY IN INDIA:
In India, the Textile Industry has got an important place. It has a great
contribution to the economy of the country. It also contributes to the industrial
output, employment generation and foreign exchange earnings. The value addition
in the manufacturing sector is 20% and the contribution to GDP is from 4 to 5%
and export earning by the Textile industry in India is more than 30% of the total
export. The textile industry spread from rural areas to the big cities like
Ahmedabad, Mumbai, Calcutta, Chennai etc. In rural areas handlooms are busy in
producing of cloth. In small cities, thousands of powerlooms are working in the
textile field. Lakhs of poor people are getting their livelihood by manufacturing
cloth. They also provide the local requirement of cloth on a lower rate of price. In
this respect, the Textile Industry is ranked next to agriculture in India.
GROWTH AND DEVELOPMENT :
The Textile Industry in India is categorized into the following three sectors,
(a)
Mill Sector
-
Organized Sector
(b)
Handloom Sector
-
Organized Sector
(c)
Powerloom Sector
-
Un-organized Sector
(a) Mill Sector :
The mill sector is more organized than handloom and powerloom sector. It is
because of the fact that this sector is dominated by the capitalists. The first Textile
mill in the country was established in Mumbai in 1818 with 1,000 powerlooms.1
Growth & Development of Mill Industry:
There was a rapid growth in 1900. There were 190 mills with 50 lakhs
spindles and 40,000 looms during the first world war it went up to to 65.97 lakhs
spindles and 94,000 looms. In the beginning of Second World War (1939), the
spindles were more than 10 millions and the number of looms went up to more than 2
lakhs. The growth and expansion got slow during the War. After the war, the mill
industry geared up on full speed again. 2
The following table gives a detailed and comprehensive study of growth of
the mill industry. 3
Table No. 4.1
Years as on
March End
No. of Mills
Spindles
installed
(millions)
Looms
installed
(thousands)
Spinning
Composite
Total
1948
88
105
193
10.07
193
1951
107
276
383
11.25
196
1961
196
285
481
13.83
199
1971
379
291
670
17.98
206
1981
415
278
693
21.23
208
1982
442
281
723
21.93
210
1983
561
280
841
22.91
210
1984
639
281
920
24.28
210
1985
674
281
955
25.57
210
1986
702
282
954
26.02
280
1987
744
283
1027
26.12
280
1988
752
283
1035
26.25
199
1989
769
282
1051
26.48
184
1990
770
281
1051
26.59
181
1991
777
285
1062
26.67
178
1992
846
271
1117
27.82
169
1993
874
268
1142
28.09
158
1994
901
260
1175
28.60
150
1995
1148
268
1916
30.70
139
1996
1294
275
1569
31.75
132
1997
1438
281
1719
33.15
124
33.88
1782
278
1504
1998
Source : Compendium of Textile statistics 1999 (Page No. 3,3.)
-
YARN AND CLOTH PRODUCTION :
During the war, the cloth production was meant for defence services. The
handloom sector provides the need of civilian requirement. Therefore, the mill
sector was allowed to expand the spinning wings to fulfill the demand of yarn.
The following table shows the production of yarn and cloth by mill sector.4
Table No. 4.2
Cloth Production
Yarn.
Year
Production
(Million kg.)
Mill
Decentralised
(in million
Sector (in million
meters)
meters)
Total
1948
675
3949
1,151
5,100
1951
591
3727
1,014
4,741
1961
862
4701
2,372
7,073
1971
881
41.15
4,473
8,588
1981
1067
4168
6,820
10,988
1991
1510
2590
15,228
17,818
1995
1696
2271
15,976
18,247
1996
1894
2019
17,201
19,220
1997
2148
1957
19,352
21,309
1998
2213
1948
20,957
22,899
1999
2022
1785
20,689
22,474
COMPARATIVE GROWTH OF THE SPINNING AND COMPOSITE TEXTILE
MILLS (NON SSI) IN 1988-89 AND 1998-99 (STATE-WISE) : 5
Table No. 4.3
NO. OF MILLS
STATES/
UNION
TERRITORIES
SPINNING
INSTALLED CAPACITY
COMPOSITE
SPINDLES(000)
ROTORS
LOOMS
1989
1999
1989
1999
1989
1999
1989
1999
1989
1999
ANDHRA PRADESH
58
96
2
2
1437
2110
744
7402
1246
1246
ASSAM
3
6
--
2
81
130
--
--
--
240
BIHAR
4
8
2
1
109
181
--
--
596
60
DELHI
--
--
4
1
166
23
960
--
2442
230
GOA
1
1
--
--
26
26
--
--
--
--
GUJRAT
28
57
90
90
4073
4124
8992
34246
59479
45234
HARYANA
14
75
2
2
305
369
168
67856
335
211
HIMACHAL PRADESH
4
14
--
1
74
463
--
3112
--
2
JAMMU & KASHMIR
2
2
--
--
34
61
336
992
--
--
KARNATAKA
32
49
12
10
1074
1122
1632
45856
5439
2890
KERALA
24
32
5
4
721
884
--
1724
1504
1204
MADHYA PRADESH
8
40
17
19
745
1346
3000
14348
9808
6500
MAHARASHTRA
43
124
79
77
5109
5020
2756
43044
66753
36104
MANIPUR
1
1
--
--
16
16
--
--
--
--
ORISSA
12
15
1
1
340
362
--
3400
1014
1048
PUNJAB
19
67
2
2
586
1329
2064
25016
1245
1023
RAJASTHAN
26
44
8
8
809
1293
1416
17840
3019
1582
TAMIL NADU
428
821
23
26
4698
12485
17840
101775
9318
5626
UTTAR PRADESH
35
56
15
16
1712
2003
--
9232
107451
1391
WEST BENGAL
24
24
17
15
1196
1124
504
2425
9118
6695
DADRANAGAR HAVELI
--
1
--
--
--
31
--
--
--
--
DAMAN & DIU
--
1
--
2
--
6
--
1623
--
--
PONDICHERRY
3
9
3
2
171
214
--
2888
1932
1218
769
1543
282
281
26482
34722
40412
38277
9
19399
3
12250
4
STATES
UNION TERRITORIES
TOTAL
Note : 1989 and 1999 related to March 89 and March 99 respectively.
LOCATION OF THE MILL SECTOR :
Generally, the mills were set up near the cotton growing areas or near the ports
where it got the import and export facilities. Instead of these, tax facility and free-land
also contributed to the expansion of mill industry. As a result the regional imbalance
came into existence in the textile industry. At present, Mumbai and Ahmedabad have
about 60% of mills out of the total number of mills in the country.
COMPARATIVE GROWTH OF THE SPINNING AND COMPOSITE TEXTILE
MILLS IN 1986-87 AND 1996-97 (STATE-WISE) : 6
Table No. 4.4
STATES/
UNION
TERRITORIES
STATES
ANDHRA PRADESH
ASSAM
BIHAR
DELHI
GOA
GUJRAT
HARYANA
HIMACHAL PRADESH
JAMMU & KASHMIR
KARNATKA
KERALA
MADHYA PRADESH
MAHARASHTRA
MANIPUR
ORISSA
PUNJAB
RAJASTHAN
TAMIL NADU
UTTAR PRADESH
NO. OF MILLS
SPINNING
1987 1997
51
2
4
-1
28
13
3
2
31
23
9
40
1
11
19
26
416
37
92
3
7
-1
52
71
11
2
46
31
43
109
1
14
53
42
776
52
INSTALLED CAPACITY
COMPOSITE
1987 1997
2
-2
4
-90
2
--12
5
17
79
-1
2
8
23
15
2
2
2
3
-92
2
--11
4
16
75
-1
1
7
25
16
SPINDLES(000)
1987 1997
LOOMS
1987
1997
1326
64
109
167
26
4179
299
58
36
1068
692
817
5386
14
284
548
789
7181
1711
1204
-596
2835
-65601
393
--6401
1504
12583
76137
-1014
1245
2985
9900
13257
1929
111
181
109
26
4184
369
308
53
1176
870
1221
5000
16
378
1058
1111
11690
1952
845
240
60
312
-45477
211
--3159
1204
6598
37630
-1048
969
1502
6035
11687
WEST BENGAL
UNION TERRITORIES
DADRA NAGAR HAVELI
DAMAN & DIU
PONDICHERRY
24
22
18
17
1169
1172
9876
6796
--3
1
1
8
--3
-2
3
--192
20
3
211
--2679
--144
143
2611
20821
283
281
33148
8
5
0
Note : 1987 and 1997 related to March 87 and March 97 respectively.
TOTAL
744
12391
7
In the modern age, nearly 10 lakh workers are employed in the mill industry
in the country. There are a large number of auxiliary industries depending on this
sector such as manufacturing accessories, spare parts, ancillaries, and chemicals
etc.
The spindle age capacity increased from 27.82 million in 1992 to 33.93
million as on December 1998. On the contrary, loom age decreased from 1,69,000
in March 1992 to 1,24,000 in December 1998.
Out of the total 1788 cotton / man made fiber textile mills, 192 mills are in
the public sector, 152 in the co-operative sector and 1444 in the private sector.
The growth capacity in the organized mill sector is given as under.
GROWTH CAPACITY IN THE ORGANIZED MILL SECTOR 7
Table No. 4.5
Year ending
No. of Mills
Spinning
Composite
Installed No. of
Total
Spindles Rotors
Loom
(000)
(000)
(000)
31.3.1992
846
271
1117
27.82
113
169
31.3.1993
874
268
1142
28.09
127
158
31.3.1994
909
266
1175
28.60
139
150
31.3.1995
1148
268
1416
30.70
185
139
31.3.1996
1294
275
1569
31.75
226
132
31.3.1997
1438
281
1719
33.15
276
124
31.3.1998
1504
278
1782
33.88
313
124
31.3.1998(P)
1510
278
1788
33.93
317
124
P-Provisional
The follows table showing the closure of cotton/man made fibre textile
(mills) in India.
CLOSURE OF COTTON/MAN MADE FIBRE TEXTILE (MILLS) 8
Table No. 4.6
Year/Month
No. of Mills
End
Installed Capacity
Total Spindles Rotors
Loom
Employees
on roll
Spinning
Composite
1992-93
64
59
123
3520
1776
366
178
1993-94
75
57
132
2590
3232
362
173
1995-96
100
71
171
4668
6589
450
228
1996-97
118
91
209
5469
9270
542
252
1997-98
127
93
220
5752
10813
553
260
Dec. 1998
184
100
284
6994
21686
585
299
s
(000)
The following table gives an obvious picture of production of spun yarn
industry SSI in India.
PRODUCTION OF SPUN INCLUDING SSI 9
Table No. 4.7
Year
1992-93
Cotton
Blended
100% Non-
Total
Yarn
Yarn
Cotton Yarn
Yarn
1569
247
125
1941
1993-94
1697
305
140
2142
1994-95
1696
346
158
2200
1995-96
1894
395
196
2485
1996-97
2148
484
162
2794
1997-98
2213
583
177
2973
1998-99 (Apr.-Sep.)
987
306
86
1379
(P)
2045
630
185
2860
1998-99 (A)
(P) Provisional
(A) Anticipated
The following table indicates the count-wise production of cotton yarn.
COUNT-WISE PRODUCTION OF COTTON YARN 10
Count-Group (Million Kg.)
Table No. 4.8
Year
1-
11s – 21s –
31s -
41s – 61s – 81s- &
Total
10s
20s
30s
40s
60s
80s
above
1992-93
241
346
284
487
136
44
31
1569
1993-94
278
385
314
494
144
48
37
1697
1994-95
282
389
321
470
145
48
43
1696
1995-96
310
415
391
490
153
95
40
1894
1996-97
479
511
405
515
136
60
52
2148
1997-98
503
518
462
539
136
53
39
2250
1998-99 (Apr.-Sep.)
220
228
25
240
55
22
17
987
(P)
465
470
395
501
134
45
35
2045
1998-99 (A)
(P) Provisional
(A) Anticipated
CIVIL DELIVERIES OF HANK YARN 11
Table No. 4.9
1998-
Item
1992- 1993- 1994- 1995- 1996- 19971993
1994
1995
1996
1997
1998
99
(Apr.Sep.)
19981999(A)
(P)
Cotton
377
422
438
504
519
540
243
508
Blended
1
Neg.
1
1
4
5
2
5
100% Non-Cotton
37
42
51
66
67
53
24
52
Total
415
464
490
571
590
598
269
565
(P) Provisional
(A) Anticipated
(B) HANDLOOM SECTOR :
Handloom industry is the oldest one in the country. This industry has been
playing a vital role in the production of cloth for countries. The Indian Muslim
weavers attracted the buyers of foreign countries like Egypt, Arab, Greece and
Rome. The handloom sector was in full gear during the Second World War. During
the war time, this industry satisfied the internal demand of the country. After the
war, this sector suffered a setback.
RESTRICTION BY THE GOVERNMENT :
In 1950, the government enforced a policy of reservation of some types of
the cloth for the handloom industry. The government of India restricted the mills
and large powerloom unit from manufacturing of dhoties with border containing
coloured yarn and exceeding 1/4" width or use of jari or art silk or silk yarn on
dhoti border. Production of any Lungi, Sarang or Gumcha with a check pattern or
any cloth with check pattern and having a width between 42" and 52" from which
Lungees, Sarang, and Gumchas could be made, and the production of chaddars,
bed sheets, bed covers and anything of checked or stripe pattern was prohibited.
Because of this restriction the handloom industry got a new life. The government
policy of course, was always favouring the handloom sector.
ROLE OF GOVERNMENT IN THE PROGRESS OF HANDLOOM:
For the development and expansion of handloom sector the government of
India has taken the following steps.
(i)
In 1952 Textile Inquiry Committee was appointed under the
chairmanship of Shri Nityanand Kanungo.
(ii)
All India Handloom Board was set up to advise the government in
respect of the problems of handloom industry.
(iii)
Additional Excise Duty on Cloth Act was passed in 1953.
For the promotion and development of the handloom sector different
schemes have been introduced for the (handloom) weavers. They are as under.
a)
Employment generation programmes.
b)
Modernization and Upgradation of Technology.
c)
Input Support.
d)
Marketing Support.
e)
Publicity.
f)
Infrastructural Support.
g)
Welfare measures.
h)
Composite growth oriented packages.
The follows table shows the number of Handlooms state-wise.12
Table No. 4.10
No. of Handloom
Name of the states
Urban
Rural
Total
57327
162383
219715
68
45448
45516
Assam
653775
1343793
1404168
Bihar
11557
71100
82657
Goa
9
86
95
Haryana
13969
6303
20272
Himachal Pradesh
1075
30289
31364
Jammu & Kashmir
4617
20655
25272
Karnataka
36999
44586
81585
Kerala
4751
46878
51629
Madhya Pradesh
15740
31691
47431
Maharashtra
50953
16689
67642
Manipur
42359
227902
270261
Meghalay
427
7774
8201
Mizoram
21092
82702
103794
Andhra Pradesh
Arunachal Pradesh
Nagaland
11224
66279
77503
Orisa
5933
113072
11900 5
Punjab
3651
8577
12228
Rajasthan
8151
25105
33256
121742
306803
428545
264
118808
119072
Uttar Pradesh
99966
160748
260714
West Bengal
37194
301305
339499
Pondichari
3867
1376
5243
630489
3260087
3890576
Tamil Nadu
Tripura
Total
CLOTH PRODUCTION :
22% of the total production of cloth is manufactured by the handloom sector,
especially dhoties and sarees in various parts of the country. It is because of the
state government intervention through financial help and implementation of
various development and welfare schemes this sector has been able to withstand
the competition from powerloom and mill sector. As a result, the cloth production
has gone up to 7862 million sq. meters in 1997-98.
Table shows the percentage of various cloth pattern. 13
Table No. 4.11
S r. No. Type of Cloth
% to Total
Production
1
Dhoties
23
2
Sarees
26
3
Shirting & Coatings
08
4
Bed Sheets
04
5
Towels
08
6
Others including lungees, Sarees
Sarang, Hanker chiefs, Bleeding mattress etc.
31
Total
100
Growth of Powerloom, Employment And Production of Cloth 15
Table No. 4.12
No. of Powerloom
No. of Powerloom
Units
(Revised)
1992
309064
1200111
3000278
1993
310590
1239268
3098170
1994
319728
1314003
3285008
1995
326286
1365284
3413210
1996
333017
1411903
3529758
1997
349280
1523336
3808340
1998
355791
1576977
3942443
(upto
31.8.98)
Year
Employment
(C) POWERLOOM SECTOR
It is very difficult to indicate when and where the first powerloom was set up
in the country. However, the Fact Finding Committee had pointed out that there
were 15000 powerlooms in 1942. The main centres of powerlooms are Mumbai,
Ahmedabad, Ichalkaranji, Sholapur, Surat, Tanda and Jabalpur. Some other state
having powerlooms are West Bengal, Karnataka and Punjab.
In 1941, Mumbai had almost 55% of the total powerloom in the country. Other
important states were Madhya Pradesh and Karnataka. In 1958, the powerloom
spread out rapidly in other states also.
Following table shows the percentage of location of powerloom in various
states and union territories of India. 16
Table No. 4.13
Sr.
No.
States
Cotton
Total Number
of Powerlooms Powerlooms
(in Lakhs)
(in Lakhs)
0.15
0.09
1
Andhra Pradesh
2
Assam
0.12
0.02
3
Bihar
0.07
0.06
4
Gujrat
0.92
0.23
5
Haryana
0.02
0.01
6
Karnataka
0.34
0.12
7
Kerala
0.06
0.05
8
Madhya Pradesh
0.16
0.13
9
Maharashtra
2.26
1.76
10
Orissa
0.04
0.04
11
Punjab
0.22
0.05
12
Rajasthan
0.08
0.07
13
Tamil Nadu
0.93
0.69
14
Uttar Pradesh
0.24
0.19
15
West Bengal
0.15
0.13
16
Other States and Union Territories
0.05
0.03
Total
5.71
3.67
CONVERSION SCHEME OF HANDLOOM TO POWERLOOM:
According to the Kanungo Committee the Government introduced a scheme of
conversion of the Handloom into Powerloom in the co-operative sector. It
recommended 35,000 powerloom only. There were some conditions to be observed
in the conversion which are as follows.
(i)
The allotment of looms would be on co-operative basis only.
(ii)
Powerloom should be housed in weaver’s cottages themselves.
(iii)
Other powerloom co-operative societies may be formed.
(iv)
The size of the powerloom unit should be of 10 looms.
(v)
Powerloom unit should be located in rural areas. The place having the
population of 30,000 or less than that shall be considered as a rural area.
(vi)
Only one powerloom to each weaver should be allotted.
(vii) Powerloom under this scheme is meant exclusively for the production of
cotton only.
For the completion of this scheme, a loan upto 87.50% as a share capital and
Rs. 100/- as a membership fees for the co-operative societies was provided.
Besides, the cent percent loan for the cost of powerloom with motor and other
expenses out of which 50% of the total sum will be given as a grant and 50% as a
loan. Rs. 500/- was also sanctioned as a working capital.
The scheme proved to be a failure in Maharashtra due to the shortage of
working capital. There were many difficulties such as delay in the supply of
powerloom, supply of electricity and provision of capacity. In rural areas
electricity was not available.
REASON FOR THE FAILURE OF THE SCHEME :
The government tried its best for the success of the Conversion Scheme and
provided financial assistance but, the scheme did not prove to be success in a true
sense of the term for the following reasons.
(i)
The working capital was not sufficient to run the powerloom.
(ii)
The people, who have had 30,000 handlooms in rural areas, related to cooperative societies discouraged the scheme.
(iii)
There were no power facilities for winding warping sizing supply of yarn
and finishing etc.
(iv)
There was no proper arrangement for the allotment of looms in the cooperative societies.
GROWTH OF POWERLOOM INDUSTRY :
The decentralised powerloom sector plays a unique role in meeting the
clothing needs of the country. The growth and expansion of powerloom industry
over the years have been phenomenal.
Not only the production of cloth but also the employment have been increasing
rapidly in the powerloom sector. The powerloom industry produces a wide range
of cloth, both grey and processed. The contribution of powerloom sector is 55% of
the total production of cloth in the country. The powerloom products are
comparable in the world market. The importance to the Indian economy in the
present circumstances should not be therefore overlooked. A great deal of
responsibility is therefore thrust on the powerloom industry.
The
first
powerloom unit was set up in 1904 in the country. The growth of powerloom
industry started during the First World War. The First World War brought a golden
chance to flourish, not only to the handloom sector but also to the powerloom
industry in the country. The traditional handloom owners turned powerloom due to
low expenses and handloom profits. There was also exemption to the small
powerloom units from the restriction that was imposed on bigger units. The
number of units was increasing slowly. After the Second World War, there was
rapid growth in the powerloom sector. In 1958, the number of powerlooms went up
to 44500. In 1980, it increased by 45 lakhs.
GROWTH OF POWERLOOM INDUSTRY IN MAHARASHTRA:
Bombay, Bhiwandi, Malegaon, Dhule, Ichalkaranji and Sholapur are the main
centres of powerloom industry in Maharashtra state. All these centres have a
speciality in the pattern of weaving and are known for their variety of cloths.
Ichalkaranji is famous for its superfine dhoties and multi-colour sarees that are
called 'Patal'. The powerloom of Sholapur are engaged in manufacturing Jacquard
Chaddars and towels that earn a handsome foreign exchange for the country. On
the other hand, Malegaon and Dhule are well-known for coloured sarees with silk
and Zari border Irkal, Zar-Zamin, Apsara, Mangla, Boutique are some of the
famous pattern of sarees. Moreover grey cloth is another product of the centre.
Bombay has got main place in the textile industry. All types of cloths such as long
cloth, grey cloth, suiting, shirting, printed materials, dhoties and silk sarees are
some of the special products of Bombay textile industry.
Importance of Bombay:
Earlier, it is mentioned that the textile industries are established near the cotton
growing areas and near the port, which had the facility of import and export. After
the First World War, the textile industry was mainly concentrated in Bombay due
to the following reasons.
(i)
Humid climate of Bombay is suited for the cotton spinning.
(ii)
Facility of Transport.
(iii)
Easy availability of funds.
(iv)
Provision of raw-material.
(v)
Advertising facility.
(vi)
Import and Export facility.
(vii) Supply of electricity and water.
(viii) Banking facility.
(ix)
Cheap and skilled labour.
(x)
Connected to all big cities of India by railways, roads and air.
(xi)
Head office of the Textile Commissioner.
(xii) Main centre of mill industries on the textile field.
(xiii) International city due to air-port.
(xiv) Being the capital of Maharashtra state.
(xv) Facilities of processing, sizing, printing, spinning and dying etc.
OTHER POWERLOOM CENTRES IN MAHARASHTRA:
Apart from Mumbai, there are also some other important powerloom centres in
Maharashtra. They are Bhivandi, Malegaon, Ichalkaranji, Dhule Sholapur etc.
(i)
Bhiwandi: Bhiwandi has got more importance in the textile industry
than the others centers of powerloom as it is located near Bombay. Because of
locality, Bhiwandi received all facilities that are available in Bombay. Presently,
more than one lakh powerlooms are running over there. The powerloom industry
got rapid growth and expansion due to financial assistance and support of mill
owners from Bombay. One more reason is that, in Bombay, after 1980, the mill
mazdoors went on strike under the leadership of Datta Samant. Nearly 13 mills
were locked due to less than enough capital and strikes. Lakhs of mazdoors
became jobless. The mill owners turned towards Bhiwandi by supplying sized
beams and yarn and encouraged the setting of powerlooms. The mill owners
received prepared cloth. It is called "Master Weavers". Approximately 60%
powerlooms are working as master weavers. At present, suiting and shirting are
common products. Now a days, the famous powerloom centre is experiencing a
sever crisis of electricity supply. The charges are increased from Rs. 120/- to Rs.
300/- per powerloom by the Government of Maharashtra which is unbearable not
only for the powerloom owners form Bhiwandi but also the other centres. Due to
the crisis 50% powerloom units are locked-up.
(ii) Ichalkaranji: Ichalkaranji is one of the eminent powerloom centre in
southern Maharashtra. The powerloom industry started here in 1904. The specialty
of this center is the product of multi-coloured ‘Patal’ sarees made from imported
yarn. After 1956, the weavers of Ichalkaranji shifted their production to grey cloth
in fine and superfine dhoties and mulls. Influenced with the present age of
modernization, the weavers are on the path of modernization of powerlooms.
(iii) Sholapur: Sholapur is situated in the southern part of Maharashtra.
Sholapur is a centre where mills, handlooms and powerlooms have developed side
by side. In the beginning, the handloom was providing the local needs. After the
First World War, a mill was established in 1950-55. Hence the weavers purchased
and set up their own looms. At present, one lakh powerlooms are working there.
They are busy in manufacturing Jacquard chaddars and towels. These products
have great demand in the country and are also exported to African countries and
are earning foreign exchange.
(iv) Dhule: Dhule is situated on Bombay-Agra Road, to the east of Malegaon
in Maharashtra, at a distance of 55 kms. It is also known for its coloured sarees as
is Malegaon. At present, 20,000 powerlooms are working there. Presently some
powerlooms are manufacturing grey cloth of cotton, polyester and rotto etc.
At present, all the powerloom centre in Maharashtra are facing the crisis of the
increase in the electric charges. The fixed rate of Rs. 120/- to 160/- now has been
increased upto Rs. 300/- per powerloom by the M.S.E.B. Strikes, morcha, hunger
strikes, processions, meetings and representations
are organized to ventilate
grievances.
A COMPARATIVE STUDY OF POWERLOOM INDUSTRY WITH THE
HANDLOOM SECTOR AND MILL SECTOR :
The Indian Textile Industry is divided into three sectors. Among them,
powerloom and handloom sectors are decentralised and non-organized. The Mill
Sector is powerful and is dominated by the capitalists. Generally, it is said that, the
powerloom sector is the great rival of mill and handloom sectors. According to the
14th report of the Estimate Committee of the 6th Loksabha of March 1978 that
"The powerloom industry at all on the contrary is playing a role of restricting the
monopolistic powers of Mills sector and thereby helping a common man to get
cloth at reasonable price." 17
It is a matter of fact that the powerloom industry is extended to small towns
and villages in Indian Territory. At all the centres, the weaving pattern of cloth is
varied according to the area. So there is no question of competition. At present, in
Ichalkaranji and Sholapur, powerlooms are engaged in producing ties coloured
cheek sarees, mull etc. In Madras, the handlooms are concentrated on the
production of dhoties, saree, shirting, coating and towels. In Malegaon coloured
sarees grey, polyester and rotto are manufactured.
In fact, the powerloom and handloom sectors are producing 75 per cent of the
total cloth produced in India. These two sectors are busy in providing a gainful
employment to the poor people of the area. In this manner, it is helping to promote
the economy of the county and also solving its unemployment problem.
In spite of these important roles of the powerloom industry, it does not get any
facility from the government. On the contrary, the powerloom owners are exploited
by the mill owners, capitalists, traders, and middlemen. Several other restrictions
are imposed by the government to time in order to save the mill and handloom
sector.
RECOMMENDATIONS OF THE COMMITTEES:
Instead of giving any facility or financial help to the powerloom industry the
governments appointed various committees to find out the problems of textile
industry in the country. Kanungo committee (1954), Ashok Mehta Committee
(1964), Siva Raman Committee (1974) were appointed by the government to study
the problems. Among them, the only committee of Ashok Mehta, recommended in
a true manner and in sympathetic way for the powerloom industry. It was the first
committee which advised the government to include the powerloom sector in Five
Year Economical Development Plan. It also granted the powerloom industry its
social status.
The Kanungo Committee and Siva Raman Committee recommendations were
disfavouring as well as discouraging the powerloom sector.
According to the fact Finding Committee (1942) "A more serious rival to the
handloom industry than the mills had arisen in the small sector powerloom
factory."
This rival combines itself owing to its medium scale production, the
advantages of both mill and handlooms. It can utilize cheap electric power and
avail itself of the modern appliances in weaving. The competition from
powerlooms is a growing phenomenon which about 15 years ago the handlooms
had nothing to fear from. Powerlooms are not subject to any irksome restriction
such as factories Act or special taxes. As such they are source of competition in
important line to the mills as well. The cost of production in powerloom is
comparatively low owing to small overhead charges and economics of mechanical
production. 18 The recommendations of Siva Raman Committee were very harmful
for the powerloom sector. Therefore, there was no question for the Mill sector to
go against it. The Siva Raman Committee suggested that for the protection of
handloom weavers against unemployment, the government must impose restriction
on further expansion and growth of powerloom industry. Really, the
recommendations of Siva Raman Committee were poison for the powerloom
sector. So it is clear that anytime and anyway, the policy of the government in
respect of powerloom industry is not favourable and encouraging. Because of this
the powerloom suffered and faced a lot of difficulties and could not do much
progress in the textile field of the country. Whatever progress is seen by the
powerloom sector in various centres are self dependent and without any help from
the government Later or earlier in the B.J.P. Govt., the textile minister Mr. Kansi
Ram Rana who is from Surat in Gujrat constituency which is one of the
powerloom centres in India, paid sympathetic heed towards the industry. It is
hoped that some encouraging and needful step would be taken by him. It is because
while formation of All India Textile Board, Mr. Momin Mujeeb Ahmed has been
selected from Malegaon powerloom centre as a representative.
EXPLOITATION OF POWERLOOM OWNERS:
Yarn is the basic need for handloom and powerloom industry. These yarns are
supplied by the textile mills. The handloom requires the yarn in the form of hanks
while the powerloom in the form of cones or sized beams. The Textile Mills and
Spinning Mill are dominated by the capitalist. They have created the vicious circle
of distribution chain of yarn to the powerloom weavers. In the selling process of
yarn there are relatives of mill owners, agents, brokers and other middlemen who
purchase and sell the yarn. In this way, the sold and purchased yarn passes through
four to five hands before reaching its actual users. At every stage, the profit is
earned. These middlemen buy and fix the price of yarn according to the
fluctuations of demand and supply. They create a shortage of yarn and increase the
price. In this way, the powerloom owners or weavers have to pay more than the
actual price of millrate, so the poor, disorganized and helpless powerloom weaver
owners are exploited by the millsowners. Apart from this, the government does not
take any effective step to stop these malpractices of mill owners.
There is no doubt that the small powerloom owners and weavers are very
much in the grip of the mill owners and middlemen and being exploited and put to
hardships.
It is because, during the elections, the mill owners and capitalists give election
funds to the political parties for their expenditure in election.
After the election the mill owners sell yarn according to their will by creating
artificial shortage of yarn. That’s why the government does not pay any heed
towards
the
protest
or
strike
of
the
powerloom
owners.
EXPLOITATION BY THE CLOTH MERCHANT:
Lack of processing facility is one of the deficiencies in the powerloom
industry. As a result, the powerloom owners helplessly sell their grey cloth from
the mills and traders or master weaver who sells the cloth on higher rate after
processing. Here these traders and mill owners created artificial market crisis and
exploit the powerloom owners.
This exploitation of powerloom owners is continued on both the sides
i.e. at the selling of yarn and purchasing of cloth. The powerloom owners do not
take any interest in the co-operative movement. They are totally dependent on the
yarn suppliers, traders and cloth merchants. In this regard, the Estimate Committee
of 1978 recommended “the state government should come forward with the time
bound programme to free weavers from the clutches of master weavers.” 19
REFERENCE
1.
The Powerloom Enquiry Committee Report 1964
Ministry of Textile and Commerce
Government of India, New Delhi
Page No. 5
2.
All India Textile Mill Federation, Bombay
Compendium of Textile Statistics 1999
Page No. 30
3.
Ibid, Page No. 65
4.
Ibid, Page No. 31
5.
Ibid, Page No. 31
6.
Annual Report 1998-99 Textile Industry
Government of India
Page No. 12
7.
Ibid. Page No. 15
8.
Ibid. Page No. 13
9.
Ibid. Page No. 14
10. Ibid. Page No. 11
11. Powerloom Inquiry Committee
Page No. 11
12. Assistance Director Office of the Commissioner
Handloom, Powerloom, Ministry of Textile,
Govt. of India, New Delhi. 110011
13. Powerloom Enquiry Committee 1964
Minsitry of Commerce Textile & Commwerce
Government of India, New Delhi
Page No. 29
14. Annual Report 1998-99,
Ministry of Textile,
Government of India, New Delhi
Page No. 18
15. Annual Report 1998-99, Ministry of Textile,
Government of India, New Delhi
Page No. 19
16. R. R. Ansari,
A study of Marketing Problems of Powerloom
Industry in Malegaon.
Thesis Submitted to University of Pune, 1979
Page No. 49
17. Powerloom Enquiry Committee Report 1964
Ministry of Commerce and Textile
Government of India, New Delhi
Page No. 39
18. Yantra-Magh, November 1980, Ichalkaranji
Page No. 30
19. Powerloom Enquiry Committee Report 1964
Ministry of Commerce and Textile
Government of India, New Delhi
Page No. 31
xxx